New Tariffs on Chinese Goods Have Apparel Manufacturers Worried by Deborah Belgum Executive Editor When U.S

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$2.99 VOLUME 74, NUMBER 45 NOVEMBER 2–8, 2018 THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR 73 YEARS New Tariffs on Chinese Goods Have Apparel Manufacturers Worried By Deborah Belgum Executive Editor When U.S. tariffs were levied in September on $200 billion worth of Chinese imports, some apparel companies saw the writing on the wall even if they wanted to erase it. The 10 percent tariffs did not cover apparel or footwear, but it did include fabric and handbags along with a threat for more tariffs. Now a new round of tariffs spearheaded for early next year on $257 billion in trade with China will undoubtedly include clothing. And those 10 percent tariffs are expected to shoot up to 25 percent on Jan. 1. With change in the wind, clothing manufacturers such as Michael Weisberg decided not to wait for new tariffs to kick in. This year, he started shifting production of his BeBop and Gypsies & Moondust juniorswear labels from China to Vietnam. Last year, 60 percent of that production was done in China. This year it is down to 40 percent, with most of ➥ Tariffs page 3 Dame Launches to Blend Chic Fashion With a Sustainable Lifestyle

By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor Starting with a friendship that has grown for more than 10 years and apparel-industry experience that has spanned their entire careers, Alexx Monkarsh, Molly Levin and Wells But- ler wanted to create a positive impact through clothing. The trio decided to collaborate on a sustainable, socially conscious brand of apparel that stands apart by creating an online eco-conscious fashion-lifestyle destination. Named Dame, the brand launched in Los Angeles on Nov. 1 with manufacturing based in downtown L.A. “When I was done with my previous line, I connected with Molly, who is also my sister-in-law and a stylist,” said Monkarsh, a Los Angeles native whose previous label was Alexx Jae and Milk. Her mother is Debbie Levin, president of the Environmental Media Association. “We wanted to start this direct-to-consumer fashion world that provides a great uniform for women and also a styling component.” SPACE FOR LACE ➥ Dame page 8 INSIDE: For his Spring ’19 collection, Kevan Where fashion gets down to business SM Hall was into lace infused with subdued colors. For more looks, see page 7.

4 6 Differential Brands’ new name ... p. 2 True Religion’s interim CEO ... p. 2 Automating marketing ... p. 3 Calik Denim and Kingpins ... p. 9

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01,3,8-9.cover.indd 1 11/1/18 6:40 PM NEWS Differential Brands Group Now Has a New Name Differential Brands Group, the Los An- to Centric Brands, which will continue as a giant Li & Fung in 2009. ed by affiliates and/or funds managed by geles apparel company whose labels include publicly traded company and be listed on the With the new acquisition, Centric Brands Ares Capital Management, HPS Invest- Hudson, Robert Graham and SWIMS, is Nasdaq under the ticker symbol CTRC. is expected to generate more than $2.3 bil- ment Partners, GSO Capital Partners and changing its name to Centric Brands Inc. The new company will be headquartered lion in annual revenue, the company said, Blackstone Tactical Opportunities. after acquiring a significant part of Global in New York with offices in Los Angeles, with branded product distribution to a diver- Before becoming Differential Brands, the Brands Group’s licensing business in North Montreal and Greensboro, N.C. sified group of consumers across retail and company operated under the name of Joe’s America. The brands that make up Global Brands’ digital channels. Jeans, which hit a financial hurdle in 2013 Jason Rabin, the former president of North American licenses include Cal- “With the unmatched sourcing network of when it borrowed $90 million to buy Hudson Global Brands Group North America, will vin Klein, Under Armour, Tommy Hil- Li & Fung, industry expertise and a large- for $97.6 million and then defaulted on its become Centric Brands’ chief executive of- figer, BCBG, Joe’s Jeans, Buffalo David scale platform, we have the ability to expand loans. ficer, and William Sweedler, managing part- Bitton, Frye, Michael Kors, Kate Spade, organically through brand, category and The company was close to declaring bank- ner with Tengram Capital Partners, which All Saints, Cole Haan, Kenneth Cole and channel growth as well as the potential to ruptcy in 2015 but ended up selling its flagship played a role in the transaction, will continue entertainment properties including Disney, add brands to our portfolio through new li- brand, Joe’s Jeans, to the Sequential Brands to be the chairman of the board of directors. Marvel and Nickelodeon. censes and acquisitions across strategic ver- Group and Global Brands Group Holding for The $1.2 billion purchase price for the li- Global Brands Group Holding is a Hong ticals,” Rabin said in a statement. $80 million. Funds from the sale were used to censing business was paid in cash, according Kong–listed company that joined sourcing Debt financing for the deal was provid- retire Joe’s Jeans’ debt.—Deborah Belgum Bebe and Bluestar Acquire Gifts Retailer Brookstone Bebe Stores Inc. announced it has part- tive officer, said Brookstone would support for its expertise in the bedding, home textile myriad of prospective licensees as well as en- nered with Bluestar Alliance to acquire the growth for his company. and memory-foam categories. We are thrilled thusiastic retail partners,” he continued. “Con- brand name and related assets of beleaguered “Brookstone is a unique brand with strong to have London Luxury as our licensee part- tracts with best-in-class manufacturers in key gifts-and-gadgets retailer Brookstone for an growth potential,” Mashouf said. “We are ner as they exemplify the standard consumers categories, including massage, home environ- undisclosed price. pleased to expand our already-successful rela- expect from the Brookstone brand. ment, audio and travel products are expected In August, the Merrimack, N.H.–headquar- tionship with Bluestar and can see the poten- “We are also seeing strong interest from a to close this week.”—Andrew Asch tered Brookstone filed for Chapter 11 bank- tial synergies with other brands in their port- ruptcy protection. The retailer announced it folio. This investment, a direct result of our would close its mall stores and focus on 35 partnership with B. Riley Financial, which airport stores and its e-commerce site, brook- sourced the deal, will create a strong platform True Religion Names an Interim CEO stone.com. Brookstone had assets of $50 mil- for future growth and enhance our ability to Los Angeles denim company True Reli- Grayson was the CEO and a board member at lion to $100 million and liabilities of $100 generate free cash flow to maximize our divi- gion said it has appointed Chelsea Grayson American Apparel. Since her departure from million to $500 million. dends to shareholders.” as its interim chief executive officer while a that brand, she has served as a consultant for Bebe, headquartered in Brisbane, Calif., Joseph Gabbay, Bluestar’s chief executive search for a permanent CEO takes place. private-equity funds and is also a board mem- also is rallying from tough times. In 2017, it officer, said the deal would revive Brook- The Nov. 1 announcement followed cur- ber at Delta Dental of California and is on shuttered all its physical stores and sold half stone. rent chief executive John Ermatinger’s an- the advisory board of Marca Global. the brand for $35 million to Bluestar Alliance, “We are excited to begin renewing Brook- nouncement that he was retiring from the Last year, True Religion filed for Chapter a New York brand-management company, in stone’s innovation and its flow of new prod- company where he has been CEO since 2015. 11 bankruptcy but exited a few months later. order to avoid declaring bankruptcy. Manny ucts to the market,” he said. “London Lux- “We are fortunate to have someone of Grayson’s experience as CEO during Ameri- Mashouf, Bebe’s founder and chief execu- ury is the brand’s first new licensee, known Chelsea’s caliber and experience step up to can Apparel’s recovery from bankruptcy will lead the company as we continue to innovate influence her path at True Religion. our products and customer experience,” Gene “The things that worked really well at Davis, chair of the True Religion board, said American Apparel, which made us a nice in a statement. target for that acquisition, was focusing on With her appointment as interim CEO, improving and enhancing the customer expe- Grayson, who is on the board of directors, rience,” Grayson said. “At True Religion, we will step down as the company’s Audit Com- are starting from a much better place.” mittee chair but will remain as a member of Grayson will introduce fresh branding ini- the board. tiatives similar to the addition of Bella Hadid “Being asked to sit in this seat is something as brand ambassador and the Manchester I wasn’t expecting. I am so happy to get here United partnership. There are also plans to and will do all that I can for the brand,” Gray- expand into streetwear, grow the brand’s son said. “It’s more than just a job for me.” social-media presence and cultivate stronger Before arriving on the board last year, e-commerce tools.—Dorothy Crouch

RETAIL REPORT Study Clarifies Consumer Priorities As consumers rely on more e-commerce there is not.” options and the threat of increased tariffs on Despite the discount-oriented culture sur- goods from China grows, cloud-based technol- rounding retail, Jezrec said that accurately ogy firm First Insight, Inc. noted that retail identifying consumers’ priorities could help executives are not accurately informed about retail executives avoid missing out on valuable the impact of pricing. dollars. Not everything has to be discounted. During a recent survey of consumers and “Our testing has shown 6 to 12 percent of retail executives, the Warrendale, Pa.–based products that we test with consumers could company found a disconnect between retail bear a higher price than what retail executives executives’ perception of consumer purchas- were willing to charge,” she said. ing priorities and the important factors that The study also found a large discrepancy customers value. between how retail executives perceive the While both groups cited quality as most role of new technologies in consumer pur- important, only 20 percent of senior retail ex- chasing decisions. With 75 percent of re- ecutives reported that, for them, low pricing spondents surveyed owning smart speakers ranked second compared with approximately such as Amazon’s Echo with Alexa voice 51 percent of consumers. Additionally, only control and 60 percent using those devices to 20 percent of senior retail executives believed research pricing prior to making a purchase, that consumers perceived there were increases 80 percent of retail executives inaccurately in in-store prices, but 60 percent of consumers cited mobile technology as most important believed there were increased costs. to their business. “As tariffs come into play, it is more impor- Implementing new technology is important, tant for retail executives to understand what but these tools are often costly, which allows consumers are willing to pay,” First Insight’s room for customer analytics to provide answers. Senior Vice President of Marketing Gretchen “It is coming up more and more that retail- Jezrec said. “Retail executives need to under- ers are recognizing the importance of analyt- stand, on a granular level, where there is an ap- ics and the voice of their customers,” Jezrec petite to absorb a higher price point and where said.—D.C.

2 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS NOVEMBER 2–8, 2018 APPARELNEWS.NET

02.news.indd 2 11/1/18 6:58 PM INDUSTRY VOICES: TECHNOLOGY Connecting to the Connected Consumer Through Mass Personalization It’s time for brands and manufacturers to automate marketing By Paula Levy Contributing Writer (email, social, online) have performed against key metrics. dressing all things marketing including social media, web- “Mass personalization” means communicating with sites, blogs, reporting and analytics. The solution providers Understanding and connecting with customers directly is groups or communities of your consumers in a way that pro- are many, and there have been extensive acquisitions in this as important to brands and manufacturers as it is to retail- vides relevant and personalized messaging. Creating these space. ers today. Where retailers have traditionally leveraged cus- segments requires knowing your customers and followers IBM acquired Unica as the first to market automation tomer data and intelligence to drive email campaigns and and what is important to them, how they engage and shop tools, providing a best-in-class automation suite for marketing. experiences, brands and manufacturers have not possessed your brand, and why they are engaging. Micro-communities Adobe, an enterprise marketing cloud and analytics solu- the customer data to understand who their customers really are created based on psychographic and demographic data, tion, bought Neolane for segmentation and email campaigns. are—until now. Exact Target bought Pardot, and then Today, with brands’ and manufacturers’ Salesforce acquired it. Salesforce now of- online presence and use of social media, there fers a marketing cloud that includes cam- is a vehicle to communicate and connect di- paign management, segmentation, lead nur- rectly with the end consumer, build loyalty, turing, social listening and more. a following and gain insights directly from Oracle bought Eloqua for its marketing the consumer. These data can be used to drive cloud, which orchestrates paid, owned, and personalized communications and brand edu- earned marketing channels for email, mo- cation via websites, blogs, email and social- bile, social and Web. media channels, whether you sell product HubSpot’s Marketing Hub is widely direct to consumers or not. Retailers are no used to grow traffic, convert visits and man- longer the only ones gaining customer in- age inbound marketing campaigns with em- sights and connecting with the end consumer. bedded analytics and marketing automation. Acquiring firsthand customer data is essential Optimove’s Relationship Marketing to success in today’s connected marketplace. Hub leverages AI to foster intelligent rela- Manufacturers and brands have automated tionships with predictive customer model- supply-chain processes, and it is now time to ing and self-optimizing personalization. automate marketing with automation tools to WhatsNexx is new to the market with a drive mass personalization and lead genera- cross-channel marketing-automation plat- tion as effectively as retailers do. Reaching form with a lower cost of entry. the right audience with the right message is Today’s connected consumers have mul- so important to engage, convert to sales and tiple touchpoints through their customer increase brand loyalty, which in turn drives journeys—starting early with brand educa- demand for your brand. Today’s connected tion through purchases on multiple chan- consumers want information, and they want nels. Engaging this customer with relevant it directly from the brand. The younger gen- information along the way is important for erations care about how the product is produced, how the lifestyle preferences and product affinities to empower per- everyone along the supply chain—manufacturers and brands workforce is treated and the heritage of the brand. sonalization to the masses from marketing. as well as retailers. Those that collaborate and share along We have discussed in past articles machine learning, artifi- The more relevant and personalized the communications, this path to purchase will win in the end. Collaboration is cial intelligence and data insights. It all comes together with the higher engagement and transaction value. It’s that simple, strong in the supply chain with product development, so why personalization and understanding your end consumer and and it is proven. Personalized communications reported in not marketing? ● automating marketing tasks for segmentation, lead nurtur- multiple studies deliver up to 6X higher transaction rates to ing, relationship marketing, marketing KPIs and reporting. those companies doing it right. According to Aberdeen, a Paula Levy is the Chief Strategy Officer for Demand These marketing-automation tools are a part of the Customer global research and analytics firm, companies using market- Worldwide. She is a business-technology strategist whose fo- Relationship Management (CRM) suite, which is focused on ing automation yield up to a 53 percent higher conversion rate. cus is assisting retailers and brands to transform their mar- segmentation analysis, marketing communications, and anal- Marketing automation has evolved from a marketing tool keting and customer-engagement strategies with the adop- ysis of how campaigns and engagement on various channels for email campaigns to an almost $2 billion industry, ad- tion of new technologies and business practices.

NEWS

the outerwear and swimwear that YMI’s licensees make in executive vice president of the American Apparel & Foot- Tariffs Continued from page 1 China. “That would be a big issue if it comes to tariffs,” he wear Association, a Washington, D.C., trade group that rep- noted. resents the biggest and most important apparel and footwear that manufacturing shifting principally to Vietnam and then Another manufacturer waiting to move production is manufacturers in the United States. “It doesn’t seem like the Cambodia and India. Stony Apparel Corp., whose labels include Eyeshadow groundwork has been laid for a breakthrough.” “This year, our production in China started to decrease and Love on a Hanger. About 80 percent to 90 percent of He has been hearing from manufacturers, both big and as soon as Trump started trumpeting tariffs,” said Weisberg, the Los Angeles company’s collection of dresses, T-shirts, small, that they are worried and are seriously considering who is chief executive of Second Generation, the labels’ tops and pants for juniors and girls is produced in Chinese shifting production to other countries. Vietnam is the pre- parent company, headquartered in Vernon, Calif., just out- factories, said company co-founder Steve Maiman. ferred country for production, but the country’s factories side Los Angeles. “But it is tough because there isn’t enough But he does have to keep costs down for his price-sensi- right now can’t accommodate a sudden big influx of busi- capacity for everybody to go to Vietnam.” tive customers. “We are looking into alternatives to supple- ness. “All the new businesses going into Vietnam may drive Because the BeBop and Gypsies & Moondust customer is ment what we do,” he said. “If we move, it would have to be up costs and create a capacity restraint,” he said. a more price-sensitive consumer, Weisberg felt the company within a reasonable distance from China, such as Vietnam Taking a more sanguine approach on impending tariffs is needed to move to factories outside China to keep prices or Cambodia, because most of the fabric we use comes out Julie Hughes, president of the U.S. Fashion Industry As- down. He calculates that additional tariffs will increase the of China.” sociation, a Washington, D.C., group representing apparel wholesale price by 50 cents to $1 a garment if they go into Moving production can’t be done with the snap of a finger. and fashion-goods importers. She doesn’t believe new tariffs effect next year. “Our business is moderate and sensitive to Most apparel production is planned 12 months to 18 months are necessarily a done deal. “I don’t think they are going to any price increases,” he said. “It is not a risk worth taking. ahead of schedule, said Elise Shibles, a member of the inter- do anything until the two leaders [of China and the United Unfortunately, you sacrifice reliability and speed by not be- national law firm Sandler, Travis & Rosenberg. “So cur- States] meet. The Chinese are pretty smart,” she said. “I sus- ing in China. Until this thing blows over, we have to be care- rent consideration of product placement likely wouldn’t be pect they have a strategy.” ful.” evident in trade data until over a year from now,” she noted. The mid-term elections, she said, will also help to in- Other manufacturers are waiting before the tariffs take ef- terpret the future of more tariffs. If the Republicans keep fect to move their production because China is an efficient To have tariffs or not have tariffs the U.S. House and Senate, there will be nothing to hold place to make clothing. All the raw materials and inputs are Trump back from adding more tariffs on Chinese goods. there as are well-managed factories with decades of experi- No one is too clear about whether the Trump administra- If the Democrats win the House and the Republicans keep ence. tion will expand its tariffs on Chinese products. There will the Senate, it may slow things down. If the Democrats win David Vered, president of Los Angeles–based YMI be a clearer indication of what will happen after the mid- both the House and the Senate, expect a big opposition to Jeanswear Inc., said about 60 percent of his denim pants term elections on Nov. 6 and after a critical meeting in late tariffs. and non-denim pants are made in China and the rest are pro- November in Buenos Aires, Argentina, of the Group of 20, But if tariffs are imposed after that November meeting duced in Vietnam. “China is really good at having every- an international summit of governments and central-bank in Buenos Aires, expect the Trump administration in early thing [raw materials],” he said, noting that most of the fabric governors. Chinese President Xi Jinping and U.S. President December to draw up a list of more goods to be added to the used for his production in Vietnam comes from China. “But Donald Trump are expected to meet there and discuss the more than 5,000 items already on the tariff list. Those new if the tariffs come into play, we will have to move a lot of our escalating trade war. tariffs could go into effect as early as January or February. production to Vietnam.” But many are pessimistic about an immediate solution. “This could be a devastating blow to our industry,” said However, Vietnam doesn’t have the capacity to produce “We are on track for this thing to happen,” said Steve Lamar, Vered of YMI Jeanswear. “I hope it is not going to happen.” ●

APPARELNEWS.NET NOVEMBER 2–8, 2018 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 3

01,3,8-9.cover.indd 3 11/1/18 6:52 PM ACTIVEWEAR Snapbac’s Performance Wear to Ice Down and Warm Up

Icing down sore muscles is part of a typi- be worn for extended periods of time. It is California Fashion Foundation cal pain-management regimen. similar to putting an ice pack on skin for long From the heart of the California Fashion Association Most people reach for a bag of frozen peas periods of time, which can risk frostbite. to take care of sore muscles. A San Diego When not using the pods, they can be startup called Snapbac is betting that people stored in the garments’ pockets. would rather wear a small ice pack on their Although it is not a new idea, attaching ice exercise clothes to ease muscle pain. and heat agents to clothing is not well repre- Please Donate! This month, the small company is sched- sented in the market. Scott Sykes, owner of uled to introduce a line of exercise clothes the Universal Body boutique in West Holly- We ask for your continued generosity in support of that mix fashion, fitness and wellness on its wood, Calif., said he was not aware of a prod- the Fashion Foundation’s annual event, benefiting direct-to-consumer channel, snapbac.com, uct like Snapbac. However, athletic brands said Kevin Bello, co-founder and chief op- are in a pitched race to introduce new details 200 children from families with limited means. This erating officer of Snapbac. The brand also is to improve performance. celebration is often the only one these children have... continuing to raise funds for the venture. “You can’t Saran-wrap ice packs on shins and calves,” Bello said. “We wanted to give a wearable-therapy approach.” People wearing Snapbac tops and bottoms 71st Annual Christmas will attach what Bello calls “therapy pods” to any part of their bodies. The pods can be Event for Children heated up to loosen up muscles or they can be cooled down to ice a muscle after a rigorous Wednesday, December 12, 2018 workout. The pods can be attached to tops or bot- 3:30pm - 5:30pm toms of Snapbac garments with a Velcro-like Cooper Design Space micro grip liner. The pods, 860 S. Los Angeles Street, Penthouse sold with the suits, contain a propylene gel and a gly- “They’re always trying to col compound often used in invent the new Velcro,” Sykes Please join your fellow industry members and contribute products that transfer heat or said. “If I throw in mechanical dollars for gifts for the children’s gift bags. provide cooling. details, clients zone in on it. “It’s not a new technol- They’ll pay extra if it works.” ogy,” Bello said of the pods. Snapbac’s inaugural col- BE A SPONSOR AND JOIN US! The brand’s point of differ- lection will include compres- Confirmed Sponsors to date include: ence is that it offers ways to sion tops and bottoms, which wear the packs. Bello also are popular in any fitness line, California Apparel News; Aims 360; Ann Davis; warned that the pods cannot said Jamie Maunder, Snap- Barbara Fields; Ben & Joyce Eisenberg Foundation/ bac’s head of design. The brand’s dual-layer fabric can hold the thermal The New Mart; Cooper Design Space; CIT; Findings Inc.; therapy pods against any part of the garment FIDM; Fineman West; Karen Kane; Kaufman & Kabani; and also offer a comfortable feeling, she said. KWDZ Manufacturing; Mann Publications; Estimated retail price points range from $75 to $190. Mermel & Mermel LLC; Moss Adams; Ragfinders of CA; Bello started Snapbac with Ali Nil- Rena & Todd Leddy; STC-QST; Trish Landry for Opus forushan, who has competed in professional Bank; Velvet by Graham & Spencer; equestrian events in California. The development team included Dr. Andy Walshe, who Wells Fargo Capital Finance; Directives West; has consulted for the Australian Institute of Stony Apparel; SWAT/Fame Sport, the company said.—Andrew Asch

Donations made payable to: California Fashion Foundation CalendarCalendar 444 S. Flower Street, 37th Floor Nov. 2 Outdoor Retailer Winter Market Nov. 27 Colorado Convention Center Los Angeles, CA 90071 Los Angeles Christmas Cash & DG Expo Denver Carry Gift Show San Francisco Hilton Hotel or ... call 213 688 6288 Through Nov. 11 Los Angeles Convention Center San Francisco Los Angeles Nov. 13 Through Nov. 28 Through Nov. 4 ReMode Nov. 28 Los Angeles Convention Center Nov. 7 Kingpins Los Angeles CALA Pier 36 Basketball City Through Nov. 14 Fort Mason Center New York San Francisco Nov. 16 Through Nov. 29 Through Nov. 8 San Mateo Christmas Cash & Nov. 8 Carry Show San Mateo, Calif. There’s more FCI Fashion School on ApparelNews.net. Through Nov. 18 Student fashion show 3011 E. Pico Blvd. For calendar details and contact Los Angeles information, visit ApparelNews. net/events.

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POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS, Customer Service, PO Box 4419, Orlando, FL 32802. CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS®: (ISSN 0008-0896) Published by TLM PUBLISHING INC. APPAREL NEWS GROUP Publishers of: California Apparel News®, Market Week Magazine®, New Resources®, Waterwear®, New York Apparel News®, Dallas Apparel News®, Apparel News South®, Chicago Apparel News®, The Apparel News (National), Bridal Apparel News®, Southwest Images®, Stylist® and MAN (Men’s Apparel News®). Prop- erties of TLM PUBLISHING INC., California Market Center, 110 E. Ninth St., Suite A777, Los Angeles, CA 90079, (213) 627-3737. © Copyright 2018 TLM Publishing Inc. All rights reserved. Published weekly except semi-weekly first The California Fashion Foundation is established as a 501(c)(3) week of January, second week of July and first week of September. Periodicals Postage Paid at Los Angeles, CA, and additional entry offices. The publishers of the paper do not assume responsibility for statements made by their California Public Benefit Corporation. Tax ID: 95-4677121 advertisers in business competition. Opinions expressed in signed editorial columns or articles do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publishers. Subscription rates: U.S.: 1 year, $89; 2 years, $140. Foreign: $180 U.S. funds (1-year subscription only). Single-copy price $2.99. Send subscription requests to: California Apparel News, Customer Service, PO Box 4419, Orlando, FL 32802 or visit www.apparelnews.net. For customer service, call (866) 207-1448.

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04.cal.indd 4 11/1/18 7:03 PM ADVERTISEMENT

With its new Polyester Offering, Pantone proves why it became and remains the world leader in global color standards

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05.pantoneAd.indd 5 11/1/18 7:07 PM T-SHIRTS DC Shoes Founder Builds Up Latest Apparel Brand

By Andrew Asch Retail Editor The collection, which includes “The graphics have their own ap- a hoodie and some T-shirts manu- peal even someone who may not un- More than 20 years ago, Damon Way and Ken Block factured by Los Angeles Apparel, derstand their musical nuances will launched DC Shoes and built it into one of the skate cat- will also be sold at high-end skate buy into it,” Way said. egory’s most influential brands. It was later acquired by Qui- and streetwear boutiques as well Fact. seeks to visually communi- ksilver, now called Boardriders, for $87 million. as on the direct-to-consumer web- cate the intersection of skateboarding Now Way has a Los Angeles-area clothing project called site factbrand.com. with musical subcultures fostered by Fact., which is, in a way, a return to his roots when he started Retail price points range from Factory. “It is understanding the pow- $38 to $45 for T-shirts to er of culture and individuality through $130 for hoodies, Way said. those subcultures,” Way noted. The Beasties collection The small brand is growing just as was released just as Way Way reconnected with DC Shoes. He started to grow the Fact. left the brand in 2008—four years af- brand. Fact. released some ter it was acquired by Quiksilver. small T-shirt collections in In 2016, he rejoined the company 2016 and 2017. Its Spring to help reinvigorate DC Shoes. Part ’19 collection will offer a of his job is to help the brand recon- much wider assortment of nect with its roots and position it as looks, which will include a higher-end brand, which features items such as pants de- more technical aspects in its apparel signed and produced by its and footwear. Japanese partner, Jack Inc., “It’s been fun and meaningful to which also maintains a part- participate in the process of reposi- nership with Southern Cali- tioning the brand,” Way said. fornia streetwear pioneer The rethinking of DC Shoes also Stüssy. will feature a reappearance of Droors, The artistic inspiration one of the first brands that Way his DC Shoes brand on a shoestring budget for the brand is English. The name worked on with DC co-founder Block. This week, Way introduced the brand’s newest capsule Fact. is inspired by Factory Re- DC Shoes is working on a new Droors collection done in collaboration with the 1980s and 1990s cords, a British music label re- collection, which Way is considering hip-hop hit makers the Beastie Boys. sponsible for releasing the music introducing at Paris Fashion Week in The Fact. brand’s new capsule collection will be sold of many bands, including Joy Division, New Order and January. This new Droors collection will feature T-shirts as at merchandise tables at the back of events where Beastie Happy Mondays, which dominated 1980s and 1990s music well as nylon soccer jerseys and track suits. Boys musicians Michael “Mike D” Diamond and Adam “Ad- charts. For Way, working on a startup and an established brand Rock” Horovitz will talk about their music and wild times. Peter Saville, Factory Records’ art director, also devel- has been invigorating. “It’s a great balance for sure,” he said. Way designed the Fact.’s “Beasties” collection with Mike oped a group of unique graphics, which were placed on the “With DC and Droors, you get the sophistication and the for- D, going through the band’s photo archives to put together label’s albums. The Fact. brand’s graphics are inspired by mal business experience. Fact. is literally like a scrappy ga- collages for the collection, as well as looking at flyers from the music label’s graphics, which are on the brand’s hoodies rage operation. It’s very nimble. It’s full of risks. It behaves early punk gigs. and T-shirts. like a teenager.” ●

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06.kevinahall.indd 6 11/1/18 7:24 PM FASHION Lace and Fringe Infuse the Spring/Summer ’19 Collection by Kevan Hall

For his latest collection, Los Angeles designer Kevan Hall introduced a new split-pant silhouette in stretch crepe for day and accented it with a tuxedo sequin stripe for night. Other silhouettes included red-carpet-ready gowns that have intricate detailing and leg-baring dresses that are flirty and fun. “Luxury abounds in the collection with an imported slash Chantilly lace with a touch of ostrich feathers, silk fil de coupe, stretch crepe and stretch duchess satin,” Hall said. His Spring/Summer palette was infused with lavender, raspberry, blueberry and coconut. “My summer tweed with fringe accents creates a mélange of all these beautiful colors,” Hall noted.—Deborah Belgum ANTHONY EVANS

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07.activewear.indd 7 11/1/18 7:13 PM NEWS

Dame Continued from page 1 “They are awesome and want to be as green as possible,” Monkarsh said of the unnamed As a stylist, Levin brought a fashion ex- factory where Dame is manufactured. “In 10 pertise to Dame that allows the brand to ex- years, I hope we live in a world where brands pand into the lifestyle category. This reach do sustainable fashion and consumers are con- will see the brand providing styling tips with scious about what they’re wearing,” she said. each purchase and serv- As upcycling and ing as an online destina- clothing resale rise in tion where clients can popularity among con- find the input of fashion- sumers, Butler empha- able guests, which will sizes the flexibility that include actress Malin manufacturers and shop- Akerman, known for her pers have when choosing role as Lara Axelrod in sustainable-apparel op- the TV series “Billions.” tions. “Nine times out of “Sustainable clothing 10, somebody sees could be anything,” she something online, thinks said. “You could do cou- it’s super cute, orders From left, Alexx Monkarsh, Wells Butler ture that is sustainable.” it and doesn’t know and Molly Levin The handcrafted how to put it together pieces in the Dame after it arrives,” said collection are sized Levin, who also grew XS to L, which will up in Los Angeles. fit a standard size “Wouldn’t it be nice 10 or 12. Fabrics to include a style card are sourced by Tori with everything that Monkarsh, Alexx’s they order? We’re niece and the compa- providing style cards ny’s production and to build their con- development lead, fidence so they can who scours the city know that they, too, for fabric resources. can be a stylist.” In addition to the In addition to T-shirts, tank tops, manufacturing lim- pants and blouses, ited-run pieces from the women were sure upcycled dead stock, to include a kimono the company sells jumpsuit, slipdress vintage styles that and a comfortable, complement the col- yet stylish, blazer, lection. The compa- which can be paired ny’s pieces will be released nearly with any piece in the collection to every month, and vintage stock add a classic look. will be consistently refreshed as “We’re combining elevated new pieces are sourced. basics that we are manufacturing “The fashion market is so satu- ourselves, with vintage, and those rated,” said Butler, the owner of are the perfect elements of the Prinp Clothing line. She grew up best wardrobe,” Butler explained. in the Midwest, where she relied on “All you need are elevated basics, shopping for vintage pieces to re- including cotton/Modal T-shirts, create on-trend looks. “In order to and these whimsical vintage piec- set yourself apart, you have to have es—such as vintage high-waisted a different component,” she said. Levi’s, Indian block-printed Get Inspired! “I love the hunt, going through dresses and skirts—and you’re racks to find special pieces, and it’s good to go.” Hundreds of Stocked something that I enjoy doing for During the holidays, between Novelty Knits, Dame.” its first and second collections, Wovens, Linings Each limited-run collection will Dame will release a limited-edi- include 11 to 15 basics created in tion Cozy Box, which includes and More! beautiful fabrics from quality dead a loungewear set with a sweat- stock. For its first Back-to-Basics shirt and pants that can be mono- One Roll Minimum. collection of T-shirts, tank tops, blouses and grammed by the company. The women de- pants, Dame is launching with easy-to-style signed the pieces to be comfortable enough www.cinergytextiles.com pieces that complement one another. for opening holiday gifts or running out to Tel: 213-748-4400 “We wanted to start our line with the base grab a bite to eat. of a client’s wardrobe—the building blocks Price points for the first collection range [email protected] of your closet,” Monkarsh said. “We’re all from just under $60 for dead-stock-sourced mothers, working women and busy, but we cotton/Modal tank tops to V-neck and muscle want to grab something that is easy to go T-shirts for $250. While they might eventu-

Apparel News Group WEB PRODUCTION FINANCE while still looking chic and tailored.” ally launch pop-up shops, the women intend MORGAN WESSLER DAVID MARTINEZ For their clients, the Dame women want to to continue their direct-to-consumer model in CREATIVE MARKETING DIRECTOR CREDIT MANAGER LOUISE DAMBERG RITA O’CONNOR provide options to appear effortlessly styled by an effort to maintain affordability and a sus- DIRECTOR OF SALES AND MARKETING allowing the company to plan their wardrobe. tainable supply chain. 731945-2018 TERRY MARTINEZ PUBLISHED BY It was through their own personal difficulties “More and more, direct-to-consumer is Seventy-three years of news, SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE TLM PUBLISHING INC. fashion and information AMY VALENCIA APPAREL NEWS GROUP balancing their demanding lives with looking what you’re going to see,” Levin said. “It’s ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Publishers of: CEO/PUBLISHER chic that the women devised a plan for Dame. essentially wholesale, and we’re able to keep LYNNE KASCH California Apparel News TERRY MARTINEZ Waterwear “Less and less do I want to think about the price down. To be able to keep an ap- BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Decorated MOLLY RHODES serious outfits: jeans, a belt, blouse, a blazer, proachable price point, I feel it will be what EXECUTIVE EDITOR SALES ASSISTANT/RECEPTIONIST EXECUTIVE OFFICE shoes and the right bag,” Levin said. “I have we see more of these days.” DEBORAH BELGUM ASHLEY KOHUT California Market Center RETAIL EDITOR ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANTS 110 E. Ninth St., Suite A777 to grab something quick, which doesn’t re- The direct-to-consumer model also aligns ANDREW ASCH CHRIS MARTIN Los Angeles, CA 90079-1777 quire a lot of thought and is comfortable, but with Dame’s mission to help women eas- RACHEL MARTINEZ (213) 627-3737 ASSOCIATE EDITOR Fax (213) 623-5707 I have to look nice when going to a fitting or ily find fashionable, ecologically responsible SALES ASSISTANT DOROTHY CROUCH Classified Advertising Fax PENNY ROTHKE-SIMENSKY pulling pieces in Beverly Hills.” clothing. Providing this ease in shopping al- CONTRIBUTORS (213) 623-1515 ALYSON BENDER CLASSIFIED ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE www.apparelnews.net For the founders, it was extremely impor- lows women to enjoy their lives while look- VOLKER CORELL JEFFERY YOUNGER [email protected] JOHN ECKMIER PROFESSIONAL SERVICES tant to choose a manufacturing partner whose ing stylish. JOHN McCURRY & RESOURCE SECTION practices were ethical and offered fair wages “We’re offering busy women a one-stop ESTEVAN RAMOS JUNE ESPINO Printed in the U.S.A. TIM REGAS in addition to having sustainable-apparel cre- shop for the best wardrobe, and that is in- N. JAYNE SEWARD PRODUCTION MANAGER HOPE WINSBOROUGH KENDALL IN ation. By making their EMA Green Seal–ap- valuable. Continue to build your life but not NATALIE ZFAT EDITORIAL DESIGNER proved clothes locally, the women are reduc- sacrifice your wardrobe,” Butler said. “We’re JOHN FREEMAN FISH ing their business’s carbon footprint and sup- helping to build your wardrobe so you can porting Los Angeles’ economy. build your life.” ●

8 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS NOVEMBER 2–8, 2018 APPARELNEWS.NET

01,3,8-9.cover.indd 8 11/1/18 6:52 PM DENIM California Denim Leaders Head to Amsterdam to Discuss the Industry’s Future By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor the head designer of Los Angeles–based Re/ sionals. All the events—Kingpins for sure— Denim Chief Executive Officer Hamit Yenici Done, was excited to see established con- but also Transformers and Denim Days are in a statement. Descending upon Amsterdam for the tacts who share her passion for denim. the perfect inspiration for all of us.” In addition to panels that identified the city’s jeans-focused, event-filled week, lead- “The show is much larger than New York. Goldschmied’s daughter, Marta, also demands of millennial consumers, a discus- ers from the world’s denim industry met to There are many more mills, and it’s nice to be found value in Kingpins’ ability to serve as sion regarding “The Power of Collaboration” share ideas, unveil innovations and work to- surrounded by brands from around the world,” a creative space for denim veterans and new- also took place, addressing the often-ignored gether to make a better supply chain. With she said. “It’s important to represent California comers to collaborate on the industry’s future. need for apparel-industry professionals to events scheduled throughout the city by because we have a specific point of view, and I “It’s so special because it’s a place where work together in the name of progress. apparel-industry leaders, local shops and think we need to represent internationally.” the most creative, forward-thinking denim Building upon the company’s motto of global apparel makers, California brands In addition to including denim-manufac- leaders have a chance to come together with “Ever Evolving,” the inaugural event includ- headed to the Netherlands to meet with their turing innovations on the trade-show floor, a fresh generation of designers to learn from ed speakers such as designer Willy Chavarria international peers. Kingpins organized a Transformers Sum- each other and collaborate,” she said. “It’s and Ken Segall, the former creative director mit and Transformers section, which is a new really a chance for the old and new genera- of Apple. Calling on denim’s kingpins area introduced earlier in 2018 to showcase tions to connect in a fun environment.” “The buzzword in everybody’s vocabu- the work of denim innovators. In the Trans- While the elder Goldschmied was im- lary now is sustainability. Everyone was From Oct. 22 to Oct. 28, Amsterdam hosted formers Summit, Kingpins hosted panel dis- pressed with the show in Amsterdam, he felt talking about the core values of a brand— its Denim Days, and from Oct. 24 to Oct. 25, cussions and breakout sessions to provide the camaraderie found at Kingpins is an asset how they become sustainable—and collabo- Kingpins Amsterdam held its biannual trade education and opportunities for collaboration. missing from the local Los Angeles industry. ration,” said Barbara Bundy, vice president show in the region. Launched in 2004 in New “Our Transformers Summit is an event “The sense of the denim community is of education at Los Angeles’ Fashion Insti-

Calik Denim’s Ever Evolving Talks Kingpins floor

York, Kingpins now produces annual events in that we do with a lot of love,” Olah ex- something that we miss in L.A.,” he said. “It tute of Design & Merchandising. “He [Se- Hong Kong and China and shows twice a year plained. “It’s about incredible people who is the engine in the denim innovation.” gall] pulled everything all together by talk- in New York and Amsterdam. The show not bring their transformative technologies or ing about innovation and simplicity.” only brought together leaders from the global experiences to the event, and we had an in- Evolving toward a better apparel At Ever Evolving Talks, exploring the denim industry but also newcomers who want- credible standing-room-only crowd.” industry future of the industry included examining ed to learn about innovative manufacturing. Denim veterans were extremely im- wearable technology and discussing how to “It’s nice to feel that you’re part of a com- pressed with the show, citing the inspiration Prior to exhibiting at Kingpins, Istanbul’s include sustainability as part of a company’s munity,” said Andrew Olah, the founder of found at an event dedicated to their craft. Calik Denim launched its inaugural Ever core values rather than treating it as a fad. Kingpins. “It’s nice to meet people who do “The show was absolutely amazing. Evolving Talks on Oct. 23 in Amsterdam. The “It’s not just our brand that we aim to move the same things we do, and I think that is de- There is nothing like this in the world,” said event, held at the Theater Amsterdam, chal- forward; we created Ever Evolving Talks by lightful. All trade shows provide a lot to do, Adriano Goldschmied, founder and chief ex- lenged apparel-industry professionals to look Calik Denim to move our sector into a more but I think Kingpins is beautiful, and that is ecutive of the Los Angeles–based Genious toward the future, beyond business as usual. sustainable future, breathe new life into exist- something that I am really proud of.” Group. “The entire city is breathing blue— “Our ‘Ever Evolving’ motto reflects our ing events and fulfill our promise to be truly Echoing this sentiment, Jessica Dorfman, stores, people, schools, brands and profes- vision to continually progress,” said Calik ‘Ever Evolving,’” Yenici said. ●

APPARELNEWS.NET NOVEMBER 2–8, 2018 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 9

01,3,8-9.cover.indd 9 11/1/18 6:53 PM CLASSIFIEDS

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NEWSPAPER 2ND CLASS

$2.99 VOLUME 74, NUMBER 44 OCTOBER 26–NOVEMBER 1, 2018

YEARS DENIM REPORT THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR 73 A Movement Is Slowly Rising to Resurrect Selvage-Denim Production in the U.S.

By Deborah Belgum Executive Editor When it comes to manufacturing selvage denimMarch in theAir United States, Ryan Huston could be the last man standing. Inside an old airplane hangar at the former Force Base just north of Sacramento, Calif., the Huston - Textile Co. has six Draper shuttle looms from the 1960s. Of the six looms, one can make the narrow-width selvage denim so cherished by purists who relish the fabric’s fin - ished edge. Shuttle looms were very versatile and popular until the 1950s to 1960s when U.S. denim mills modernized their ma chinery to increase production and feed the growing demand for denim fabric. With less demand for shuttle looms, the Draper was Corp. the shut down in the 1970s. Until the end of last year, Cone Denim➥ Mills Denim page 8 last producer of selvage denim in the United States, but a

TRADE-SHOW REPORT Fashion Market Northern California Sold Out as Business Picks Up By Andrew Asch Retail Editor

SAN MATEO, Calif.—A good economy made for good business at the Oct. 21–23 run of Fashion Market North- ern California at the San Mateo County Event Center. The retailers attending FMNC during a sunny autumn weekend noted that their customers were buying more. However, a more confident retailer did not mean that boutique owners had entirely changed their buying habits of the past decade. A significant number were making Immediates orders, buying close to season, vendors said. The show provided a chance to stock up on inventory before consumers start shopping for the crucial holiday season. The October market ended almost one month before Black Friday, the traditional start of the holiday shopping season. ➥ FMNC page 3 Vendor space was sold out at FMNC, said Mary Taft, ex-

INSIDE: SM Where fashion gets down to business

3 ANDREW ASCH ANDREW

NRF holiday survey ... p. 2 Trending in Los Angeles ... p. 2 Gen Z spending habits ... p. 2 Elegant athleticwear thrives ... p. 6 Sustainable brand Tonlé ... p. 7 Holiday Hustle T-Shirt Resources ... p. 9 During the Oct. 21–23 run of Fashion Market Northern California, www.apparelnews.net exhibitor space was sold out at the San Mateo, Calif., event, while buyers ordered goods to prepare for the holiday shopping season.

10/25/18 6:23 PM

01.3,8-9.cover.indd 1 November 9 November 16 November 23 November 30 Cover: Retail Report Cover: Fashion Cover: Fashion Cover: Textile Trends Made in America Surf Report Tags & Labels Retail Financial Report Sustainability Report Trims, Accessories & Branding Made in America Adverto- Tags & Labels Advertorial Trade Show rial Technology Advertorial Trims, Accessories & Special Section Branding Advertorial Sustainability Advertorial Bonus Distribution DG Expo SF 11/27–28

Bonus Distribution Kingpins NY 11/28–29 REMODE LA 11/13–14

Call now for special rates Terry Martinez (213) 627-3737 x213

Go Beyond the News and Behind the Scenes

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