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Head north and follow the Machair and west coast, past the Beaches magnificent golden beaches Cycling the length of the Outer at Scarista, Borve and 4 Carrying on from Roghadal, Luskentyre. In summer the Hebrides has become a popular past you soon arrive at Leverburgh. meadows here are ablaze time over recent years. Surprisingly This is the second largest with wild flowers. This is the village in Harris. machair - unique coastal few visitors, however, take the grasslands formed when From Leverburgh, climb over shell-rich sand blows inland opportunity to ride this fabulous a short but steep pass then on winter storms and freewheel down to Northton sweetens the poor island circuit of South Harris. and its dramatic tidal bay. soils. These fertile coastal St. Clement’s Church Keep following the signs for Cycle along the east side of fringes are where the majority 3 The Bays of Harris has Roghadal (Rodel), ignoring any the bay, admiring the of Harris folk lived up until the This is a route of two halves – a fascinating tour along the enticed many artists over the side roads, and once there you redshank and oystercatchers 19th Century, when most rocky bays and inlets of the east coast, followed by a years - attracted here by the will find St. Clement’s Church, feeding in the shallow waters, were cleared off the land and journey past some of Scotland’s most beautiful beaches. ever changing light and perched spectacularly on a and continue past one of sent to the rocky east coast. complex landscape. If you rock. Well worth a stop, the Scotland’s most dramatic Keen cyclists will easily manage the whole circuit in a day. fancy a break, call in at one of a church was built in the 1520s (and windy) golf courses. If you’re more of an occasional cyclist, you might like to split number of galleries along your but has since been heavily it into two leisurely days. way - some have excellent restored. It looks out over the cafés. sea to the Isle of Skye - the After the exquisite beaches of home of its founder, Alasdair Harris, Twinned the west coast you quickly Soon you will reach a small Just after the turn off to one of “Crotach” MacLeod of enter another world, a The Golden Road side road branching off to the with Jupiter these – Holmasaig Gallery at Dunvegan. Inside there are spectacularly barren and 1 The route starts in Tarbert, left signposted ‘The Golden Cuidhtinis – the road descends several stone effigies, including 5 On your left, across the rugged landscape. Hardly a the attractive capital of Road’. Turn left along this, to the shore. Stop here for great that of Alasdair Crotach himself, turquoise sea, is the island of blade of grass can be seen Harris. Heading out of the avoiding the long climb ahead views of common seals which as well as some fascinating Taransay. Once home to between the great slabs of village, turn left onto the on the main road, and swoop haul out onto the tiny islands medieval stone carvings. hundreds, in the 18th Century bedrock which cover the A859 following the signs for downhill into the little village of close to the road. it too was ruthlessly cleared hillside. So alien is its Roghadal and the Sound of Miabhaig. This is the first of by landlords keen to replace appearance, this area was Harris ferry. Immediately the many villages you will pass Luskentyre unprofitable islanders with used by Stanley Kubrick as road starts to climb and for through on the Golden Road, lucrative sheep. Today, it is the surface of Jupiter in his the first couple of miles it is so called because its tortuous completely uninhabited. famous film, ‘2001 – A Space all uphill. The gradients are route through the intricate Odyssey’. rarely too steep however and landscape of the Bays of Cross the salt marsh at the drama of this rocky, Harris made it extremely Seilebost – another great spot The climb is long and watery landscape makes the expensive to build. Before its for admiring wading birds – unrelenting, but eventually effort worthwhile. construction in the 1940s, all and then it is time to swing you will be rewarded with a traffic between the villages inland, away from the coast, tremendous sweeping went either on foot or by boat. and follow the road for the descent back to Tarbert. final climb of the day.
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“This rugged landscape used to be virtually uninhabited – almost everyone in South Harris lived on the fertile west coast.” 2
This rugged landscape used From West to be virtually uninhabited – to East almost everyone in South Harris lived on the fertile west 2 After Miabhaig the road coast. From the 19th Century continues to thread its way onwards, as landlords began past countless rocky to forcibly evict people from outcrops and beautiful their homes to make way for freshwater lochs. Although more profitable sheep farms, the scenery is impressively hundreds of people began to wild, with tremendous views make their way on foot over to over the Little Minch to Skye the rocky east side of Harris. and the mainland, you are Here these enterprising never far from civilisation. people built new houses, Every couple of miles you will 3 improved the land for crops come across another small and livestock and began settlement, usually at the building boats to fish the rich head of one of the many coastal waters. Horgabost sheltered inlets that break up this section of coastline. “Head north and follow the west coast, past the magnificent golden Leaflet produced by beaches at Scarista, Borve and Luskentyre. In summer the meadows here are ablaze with wild flowers.”
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