Introduction
PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION
Chapter 1 Background information PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1
Chapter 1 Background Information 3 Geography and climate 3, Natural history and conservation 3, Archaeology 13, Brief chronology 14, History 15, Government and politics 20, Economy 21, People 22, Language 23, Religion 24, Education 27, Culture 27
Chapter 2 Practical Information 33 When to visit 33, Suggested itineraries 34, Tourist offices 38, Maps 39, Tour operators 39, Activity holidays 40, Visas and entry regulations 43, Embassies 43, Getting there and away 44, Health 46, Safety 47, Toilets 48, What to take 48, Money 48, Getting around 50, Accommodation 52, Eating and drinking 53, Shopping 59, Arts and entertainment 60, Sport 60, Photography 60, Media and communications 60, Business in Bulgaria 61, Buying property in Bulgaria 64, Social etiquette 68, Giving something back 68
PART TWO THE GUIDE 71
Chapter 3 Sofia 73 History 73, Getting around 74, Tourist information 77, Where to stay 77, Where to eat 80, Entertainment and nightlife 82, Shopping 82, Useful contacts and information 83, What to see 84
Chapter 4 The Southwest 97 In the Rila Mountains 97, Blagoevgrad 106, Bansko 107, The far south 118, Gotse Delchev and nearby 125, Around Kyustendil 130
Chapter 5 The Northwest 133 Iskur Gorge 133, Vratsa 135, Vratsa to Vidin 139, Vidin 145
Chapter 6 Central Stara Planina and the Danube Plain 149 Towards Stara Planina 149, Pleven 151, Lovech 152, Troyan 153, Around Troyan 155, Gabrovo 157, Around Gabrovo 158, Veliko Turnovo 164, Around Veliko Turnovo 171, East towards Veliki Preslav 174, Veliki Preslav 175, Shumen 176, Around Shumen 178, The Ludogorie 179, On the Danube 181, Ruse 183, Around Ruse 187
Chapter 7 The Valley of the Roses and Sredna Gora 191 Sredna Gora 191, East towards Kazanluk 198, Kazanluk 201, Stara Zagora 204, Nova Zagora 208, Sliven 209, Yambol 211, Around Yambol 213
Chapter 8 Plovdiv, the Rhodopes and the Thracian Plain 217 The old road from Sofia to Plovdiv 217, Plovdiv 218, Into the Rhodope Mountains 227, Pamporovo 230, Around Pamporovo 232, Smolyan 233, North and west of Smolyan 234, South from Smolyan 240, Smolyan to Kurdzhali 241, Kurdzhali 243, East of Kurdzhali 245, Haskovo to Svilengrad 247
Chapter 9 Strandzha, the Black Sea Coast and Dobrudzha 251 In the Strandzha Mountains 251, The southern coast 256, Sozopol 258, Burgas 259, North of Burgas 262, Sunny Beach 266, From Sunny Beach to Varna 266, Varna 266, The coast north of Varna 271, Balchik 272, Kavarna 273, North of Kavarna 273, North of Kaliakra 274, Dobrudzha 275
Appendix 1 Language 279 Appendix 2 Glossary 287 Appendix 3 Further Information 289 Index 294