WWDMILESTONESSECTION II

MARKING 175 YEARS With its roots in hats and furs, has built a luxury emporium spanning that has survived and thrived since 1837. PHOTO BY GEORGE PIMENTEL/HOLT RENFREW GEORGE PIMENTEL/HOLT PHOTO BY 2 WWD TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDMILESTONES History Book A trans-Canadian journey spanning 175 years. By David Moin

LIKE ANY retailer with longevity, Holt when Henderson arrived at Renfrew has had its share of twists City with a shipment of caps and hats and turns, ups and downs, ownership that sold out quickly, encouraging him changes, image transformations, prod- to cross the ocean again and again uct and store expansions, and early in to replenish until he decided to set its 175-year history, a revolving door of up permanent shop in 1837, the year John H. Holt, circa 1900. partners. took the throne in England. “It’s remarkable Clements, the story of Holt Renfrew how long this company and why it’s lasted so long in an in- has survived. The com- dustry so beset by consolidation, un- pany always met the folds. Of course, it helped that the needs of its custom- store never went bankrupt and stood ers. It was responsive out across a vast Canadian landscape and very customer- with a small field of competition. focused,” obser ved However, Clements emphasizes Holt’s Derrick Clements, the leadership and the personalities be- archivist for the Weston hind the business as being integral to family, which owns George R. Renfrew with his granddaughter, its longevity and prosperity. the Group Olga, in 1895. Interestingly, they’re not necessar- Ltd., comprising Holt ily “master merchants” or retail show- Renfrew, Selfridges in well as medallions commemorating men, the kind of leaders typically as- London, Holt Renfrew as the official furrier of sociated with great fashion retailers in in the England’s royal family. America, in the tradition of such late and in There are documents, memora- and great merchants as Stanley Marcus Ireland, and is said to bilia, newspaper and magazine clips of or Marvin Traub of control about 200 compa- from the past. Yet for the soft-spoken Bloomingdale’s. Instead, Holt’s execu- nies including Canada’s Clements, who has a master’s degree tive tree sprouted leaders with savvy largest food retailer, in information from the University of {Continued on page 4} Loblaws, and fashion , there’s just not enough. brand Joe Fresh. “I wish there was more. Very few On the 11th floor of companies keep proper records. Maybe the Weston Centre in banks do. They are more inclined to Toronto, in a prosaic keep meticulous records consider- storage area housing ing their whole business is based on Modeling furs at the Sherbrooke the Weston archives, records.” But generally, it’s merely “a Street store in , circa 1950. Clements has arranged hodgepodge” of the corporate history a colorful array of ar- that survives, he said. ticles from Holt’s storied In the summer of 2000, Clements But a string of ambitious and vi- past: a turn-of-the-century top hat that was hired by the Westons to better or- sionary businessmen — among them a customer presented to Weston in the ganize and maintain the corporate W. G a l e n Weston, Alvin J. Walker, Sixties; a flag marking Queen Victoria’s records and keep the history of the Len Shavick and the enterprising Jubilee; Diet Coke bottles commemo- Weston holdings alive. young Irish merchant William Samuel rating Holt Renfrew’s 175th birthday “We try to collect ephemera and the Henderson who founded the store in this year; decades-old photos of a dog memorabilia associated with events 1837 — kept Holt Renfrew a step ahead sled team that appeared at the front and anything especially of a graphical of the competition through most of its of the store for a promotion in 1926 nature that’s of importance,” he said. Alvin J. Walker with the couture history. and one with Sophia Loren getting a “There is more of an effort now.” buying team in , circa Fifties. The story begins in spring 1834, private viewing of Holt’s best furs, as After a few minutes chatting with

beginning of a succession of royal 1909 dressed woman, touts the endorsements issued by members By the turn of the century, the “thoroughly new styles” of the Through the Years of the British royal family that company has become Holt, flapper era and “unusually stylish would include Queen Alexandra, Renfrew & Co. In 1909, a joint models” of its latest lines. 1834 1883 King and the Prince of stock structure is adopted and it In spring 1834, William Samuel As ownership changes, so, too, Wales, who would later abdicate becomes a “limited” company. 1930s Henderson, a young Irish does the name. By the time the the throne and become the Duke Holt remains headquartered at merchant, arrives in Fathers of Confederation sign of Windsor. 1919 Quebec City until the late Thirties, with a shipment of caps and hats. on the dotted line in 1867, Allen E. Renfrew is named when the head office is moved The merchandise sells out quickly the business has become G.R. 1890 president. Upon his death, to Montreal. In the meantime, and Henderson, in 1837, sets up Renfrew & Co. In 1883, admirers The company begins issuing Renfrew would be succeeded by the Quebec City store on Buade shop in the city. First known as of Sir John A. Macdonald decide illustrated mail-order catalogues of Senator Lome Webster. Street in Upper Town continues to William Ashton & Co., Henderson he deserves a more stylish coat its merchandise with instructions attract lots of attention — with a renames the shop after himself. — one fit for the country’s first for consumers on how to properly 1910 little help from the Holt Renfrew prime minister. They purchase it measure themselves to ensure a Holt Renfrew establishes its dog team. 1860 from G.R. Renfrew in Quebec City. well-fitting garment. first store in Montreal on St. Henderson eventually sells the Macdonald wears the new overcoat Catherine Street. In , 1937 business to his brother. By the when he has his portrait taken at 1897 that same year, it sets up shop Holt Renfrew celebrates 100 1860s, the Buade Street store an photographer’s studio. Now located in Toronto as well as near Canada’s “coldest street years with the opening of a store in Upper Town has become a Quebec City, the company joins the corner,” Portage and Main. And at in downtown well-known local landmark. 1886 British Empire in celebrating the it relocates its Toronto store to a Montreal. The streamlined Art Partners in the business have Queen Victoria inspects the Diamond Jubilee marking Queen larger site at the corner of Yonge Deco building designed by come and gone, and the store is company’s display at the Colonial Victoria’s 60th anniversary on the and Adelaide streets. architects now known as Renfrew & Marcou. and Indian Exhibition in London throne. The retailer displays the flag is meant to convey luxury and The retailer shows some flair for and purchases a fur muff and commemorating the event, and on 1915 good taste. merchandising, hanging furs in several other items. So impressed the reverse of the flag is stamped John H. Holt dies in Quebec City. its store windows to attract the is Victoria that she issues a Royal “G.R. Renfrew Toronto,” still legible 1942 attention of passersby. John Holt, Warrant appointing G.R. Renfrew today. George Richard Renfrew dies 1925 Beginning in 1942, Holt Renfrew in 1867, buys out Henderson’s & Co. as Furriers in Ordinary to that year. His son, Allen E. Renfrew, The Holt Renfrew catalogue, opens stores in Ottawa, Hamilton remaining interest. Her Majesty. This would mark the becomes a junior partner. a mainstay of the fashionably (1945), (1950) and SOURCE: HOLT RENFREW AND WWD ARCHIVES

4 WWD TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDMILESTONES History Book

{Continued from page 2} John Henderson Holt was born in Walker’s report, according to histori- business sense and a vi- A 1912 drawing of Holt Quebec in 1850. A cousin of George cal records, impressed Webster to such sion for keeping one or Renfrew in Quebec City. Richard Renfrew, he started at the a degree that he hired Walker as a vice two steps in front of its bottom of the business and worked president, and soon Walker became competitors. his way up. The archives indicate that pivotal in elevating Holt Renfrew’s The name Holt Holt joined Henderson, Renfrew & Co. fashion appeal. Renfrew comes from in 1857 as a clerk, and bought a part- When Webster died in 1941, Walker G.R. Renfrew and John nership in 1860. In 1867, Holt bought became president and stepped up the H. Holt, two businessmen out Henderson’s remaining interest. expansion by opening branches in who rose up through the He became president in 1900 and the Ottawa, Hamilton, Edmonton, London ranks to run the company, company was renamed Holt Renfrew & and in the Forties and early when it was built upon Co. Ltd. in 1908. Fifties. Several shops in some of an owner-management According to records, in 1909, Holt Canada’s grande dame hotels were model. Hard-working em- Renfrew became a joint stock com- created but have since been closed. ployees over time could pany with the stock closely held by In those same postwar years, Walker earn partnerships, and company executives. After earlier headed the company’s couture buy- because the company was expansions by other leaders, Holt ing team on regular trips to leading small, there was greater grew the company by adding stores in fashion houses in Paris, New York, opportunity for individu- Montreal and Winnipeg. He became London, Rome, Brussels, Madrid, als to rise in standing. As a widely respected businessman and Florence and Milan. partners came and went, philanthropist, and actively managed “In the post-World War II years, the name changed every the company until 1919, a few years Holt Renfrew moved into couture,” few years or decades. before his death. Clements said. “The store became an In the early days, Holt Renfrew was succeeded by Lorne early Canadian adopter of Christian Renfrew was really a fur- Webster, who was born in Quebec City . It was a very important step in rier, with the company’s in 1871 and was a well-known busi- that postwar period. Other Canadian first fur catalogue dat- nessman and politician. Webster ex- retailers were trying to do much the ing back to 1851, which ness. John Henderson of Montreal, plored the possibility of selling the same, trying to get a bit of that couture. Clements believes has disappeared. who had taken over the company from company but sought the advice of a Holt was under Alvin J. Walker then, He noted the catalogue of 1891 is the his brother, Holt founder William S. young New York furrier with a strong and he was successful in bringing Dior earliest that still exists. “It’s pretty Henderson, wanted them there. retail reputation, Alvin J. Walker. {Continued on page 6} graphically simple, though the cover is According to Clements, things must somewhat lavish for 1890, with colored have gone well for Renfrew and the graphics. It was intended for mail-or- business, because in 1862, the com- der purposes. It was not very big, five pany became Henderson, Renfrew & inches across, six or seven inches tall, Co. After Henderson’s retirement, the and maybe a dozen pages. It’s a fur cat- name changed again, as did the part- alogue. Catalogues were probably all ners, this time to Renfrew & Marcou. the rage back then.” Eventually, Marcou retired as well, and In the Twenties, the company shift- the business became G.R. Renfrew & ed to a broader apparel assortment Co. Under Renfrew, the firm prospered and at one time had a glove company. and expanded with a store in Toronto. Other accessories were certainly sold, According to some historical re- and there are old photographs depict- ports, Renfrew created a merchandise ing Holt Renfrew in Montreal selling display at the Colonial and Indian golf apparel in the late Twenties or Exhibition of 1886 in England, where early Thirties. Queen Victoria bought a fur muff, George Richard Renfrew was born among other items, and was so im- in Quebec in 1831, the son of a gro- pressed that she presented Renfrew cer. Though little is known about his with a Royal Warrant as “Furriers in early life or education, around 1854 Ordinary to Her Majesty.” Renfrew, along with another young Renfrew, who apparently also had businessman, V.H. Marcou, were sent business interests in textile manufac- A dog sled team appeared for a promotion at the Quebec City store in 1926. to Quebec City to manage the busi- turing and utilities, died in 1897.

and Mail, Oct. 28, 1955. with a store on Granville renovations and store openings. Street at the Pacific Centre. The New designers and exclusive Through the Years 1960 opening is kicked off with an ad brands are introduced. Giorgio Miss Renfrew, a clothing line for campaign, “H.R. in Vancouver.” Armani and Yves Saint Laurent the young, working woman on a unveil boutiques at the Toronto Calgary and London (1953). the retailer’s couture buying team, budget who nonetheless wants to 1978 flagship and Montreal branch. Units in Hamilton and London taking regular trips to the leading dress fashionably, is introduced. Sophia Loren takes some time out subsequently close, but Holt fashion houses in Paris, New York, The ready-to-wear line is featured from making the movie “Angela” 1992 Renfrew’s expansion across London, Rome, Brussels, Madrid, in Miss Renfrew departments in to do some shopping at Holt in In January, Holt names three Canada continues for the next two Florence and Milan in search of all of the retailer’s stores. Holt Montreal. Along with her is Christian executives to high posts. Hilary decades. the latest in fashion. After Walker Renfrew is bought in 1965 by Dior designer Frédéric Castet, while Weston becomes deputy chairman, retires, his son-in-law, Leonard New York-based CIT Financial and Holt Renfrew president Leonard Michael J.B. Brickell, vice 1947 Shavick, becomes president. resold in 1972 to West Coast retail Shavick plays host. chairman and ceo, and Joel Rath, ’s feminine “New chain Carter Hawley Hale. president and chief operating Look” is all the rage, and Holt 1955 1979 officer. Renfrew signs a contract to sell Holt Renfrew becomes the 1970 Holt Renfrew unveils its new Dior couture in Canada. The same exclusive retailer of Dior in Holt provides a runway for such flagship at 50 West 1997 year, Princess Elizabeth marries Canada, hosting the designer, up-and-coming designers as Marc in Toronto. With almost 100,000 The retailer says it will boost Prince Philip in Westminster who shows his latest styles at the Bohan, Christian Dior’s creative square feet, it becomes a retail selling space by 25 percent with Abbey. Canada’s official wedding new Bloor Street store in Toronto assistant. Bohan in 1970 is Holt landmark along Canada’s premier the downtown Toronto, Montreal gift is a fur coat, designed by Holt with its facade of blue glass and Renfrew’s guest of honor as the fashion strip. and Calgary stores all undergoing Renfrew. Alvin J. Walker, Holt’s metal. The designer, who flies retailer celebrates its two-decades- expansions, and a major makeover president, flies to London to carry models from Paris and New York long association with the House 1986 for the Holt at the Yorkdale samples and take measurements to Toronto for the show, says, of Dior. W. and family Shopping Centre in Toronto. for the future monarch. “Canadians should not be envious acquire Holt Renfrew. Weston and opens a boutique in 1950 of any other country when it comes 1975 his wife, Hilary, hire retail designer Montreal, and Hermès unveils an In the postwar years, Walker heads to fashion,” according to the Globe Holt Renfrew sets up shop in Naomi Leff to oversee a wave of in-store shop in Vancouver. DIOR CONGRATULATES HOLT RENFREW ON 175 BEAUTIFUL YEARS 6 WWD TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDMILESTONES Sophia Loren does some private shopping in 1978 with Dior designer Frédéric Castet. History Book

{Continued from page 4} Business improved and Walker the Depression, which under- to Canada. A number of years later, in had another brainstorm — move the scores Walker’s intuitive sense 1951, the contract became exclusive.” Montreal store on St. Catherine Street for the business. Walker himself was rebranding exercise and a new logo in In the book “Couture and Commerce” to Sherbrooke Street, a sophisticated not flamboyant or boisterous, which a strategy led by Alannah Weston, the by Alexandra Palmer, there’s a quote location close to the Ritz-Carlton hotel. Canadians wouldn’t be comfortable. daughter of Galen Weston. Other chang- from Christian Dior about Walker: “He In 1937, to mark the 100th anniversary Yet as Clements suggested, “He seemed es included the return of children’s had no previous experience in the fash- of the business, the move was made. to have a sense that the company had wear to the store, taking ownership ion world, but I liked him and felt com- Holt Renfrew in Montreal relocated to differentiate from other retailers.” of the shoe business, which had been plete confidence in him from the start. to a stone building with a stream- Walker’s son-in-law, Len Shavick, leased, and the construction of new and His role was to provide my castles in the lined modern design. It was eventually took over the business. “He larger stores in Vancouver and Calgary. air with a solid foundation.” indeed a bold move to make during was another solid businessman who had Over the last two decades, presi- a good sense of how the fashion indus- dents have come and gone more rap- try was evolving,” Clements said. “He idly than in the past, including Michael was also not flamboyant, but he seems Brickell, Joel Rath, Andrew Jennings to have been a careful caretaker of the and Caryn Lerner, reflecting the more business and moved the company for- turbulent character of the retail indus- ward in terms of the fashion it offered. try in the modern era. They all contrib- He was a good steward of the company.” uted to expansions, renovations and Shavick also oversaw the estab- image and service upgrades. lishment of the Toronto flagship at 50 Mark Derbyshire has been running Bloor Street West, which opened with Holt Renfrew as president since January 100,000 square feet and quickly became 2010 and was previously Weston’s chief a retail landmark. talent officer. Derbyshire, working with Holt Renfrew entered a less illustri- the Westons and the board, first drew up ous period in the Sixties and Seventies, a five-year plan. He spent his first couple when it was owned by CIT Financial of years returning the company to the Corp. and subsequently, Carter Hawley fundamentals, with a renewed focus on Hale, a former retail conglomerate that the customer, motivating sales associates was based in Los Angeles. However, in to know more about their clients and the 1986 the Weston family purchased the products in the store, and strengthening business from CHH, and the renais- partnerships with vendors. With a new sance began. Weston invested heavily foundation for the business in place, the to restore Holt’s position as Canada’s stage has been set for moving the com- leading luxury emporium and to fuel pany forward with its most aggressive growth in a country with a small popu- agenda of square footage expansion, lation of around 26 million at the time, as well as innovative retail concepts to yet where the largest cities, principally raise the profile and better satisfy ven- Toronto, were getting increasingly cos- dors and shoppers. mopolitan and international in flavor. Behind the scenes, it’s still the (Canada’s population is currently about Westons setting the direction. 34 million.) “They are experienced retailers,” The Weston family has taken a long- Clements said. “When they took over in term view of the business, investing 1986, they quickly moved the company for the future and not for immediate forward, changing the retail environ- returns by spurring renovations and ment, beginning a process of rejuvena- expansions and introducing fash- tion and major renovations. They had a ion boutiques. At one time, the well- keen sense that the retail business had known store designer Naomi Leff was changed and Holt had to move forward brought in to design new interiors and to still be a fashion leader. Mrs. Hilary boutiques, including spaces for Calvin Weston [W. Galen’s wife] was deeply in- Klein and . An upscale volved in the direction of the company Holt Renfrew magazine called Point of in terms of design and fashion. The View was launched in 1987, renamed Westons were very much interested Princess Elizabeth wears a mink coat from Holt Renfrew, Canada’s Holts in 2000, and eventually split into and have been involved in terms of wedding gift for her marriage in 1947 to Prince Philip. separate men’s and women’s editions. bringing in new designers and interna- In 2005, the chain launched another tional names.”

2004 Renfrew store opens on Dunsmuir the festivities for its 175th Caryn Lerner, former president and Street in that city, representing birthday, kicking off across Canada Through the Years chief marketing officer of Escada, twice the space of the original in September with a parade of succeeds Jennings, who joins Saks location. designer appearances, pop-up 1999 Monaco founder Joseph Mimran Fifth Avenue as president and shops and special Hot@175 Andrew R. Jennings is tapped as to head its private-label business. chief merchandising officer. Holt 2009 merchandise. president and managing director, In March, Holt challenges Renfrew and Vanity Fair present An expanded Holt Renfrew in with the aim of making Holt “one 20 designers, including Marc “Vinyl,” a hot-pink, style-in-the- Calgary reopens, while the Toronto 2012 of the world’s great fashion and Jacobs, Rebecca Taylor, Diane groove, monthlong celebration of unit gets a makeover. Holt Renfrew budgets $300 lifestyle stores.” von Furstenberg and Barbara music and fashion. million for its largest expansion Bui, to custom design a jacket 2010 ever, which will increase floor 2002 that epitomizes the spirit of 2005 Mark Derbyshire becomes space by 40 percent in its stores Holt’s “Viva Italia” promotion, contemporary fashion. A 3,000-square-foot designer president of Holt Renfrew. That across Canada by 2015. The a 40-day festival of fashion, In July, Holt closes its suburban department called the couture year, designers such as Alexander unit design and performing arts from Rockland shopping center in room opens in the Montreal store Wang, Donna Karan and Oscar de in Toronto will double in size the Mediterranean peninsula, is Montreal to concentrate on its featuring Chanel, Giorgio Armani, la Renta make appearances at the to 120,000 square feet. Other held at the Bloor Street flagship, downtown Sherway Gardens unit. , Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana company’s stores. expansion plans could include the attracting Sophia Loren, Roberto The retailer’s Sixties-themed “Flick” and Valentino. Vancouver flagship and a facelift Cavalli and Laudomia Pucci — not gala in September coincides with 2011 for the Bloor Street store. In to mention a fleet of Vespas. the Toronto International Film 2007 Holt reveals plans for a store in September, a new contemporary Festival and spurs a series of After more than three decades at Yorkdale, Toronto. The retailer, retail concept, hr2, is announced 2003 promotions celebrating the love Vancouver’s Pacific Centre mall, which is reportedly approaching as a lower-priced alternative to In February, the retailer hires Club affair between fashion and film. a new 137,000-square-foot Holt $800 million in revenues, begins Holt Renfrew’s luxury stores. — SHARON EDELSON ©D.YURMAN 2012 ©D.YURMAN

CONGRATULATES HOLT RENFREW ON 175 YEARS OF INSPIRED RETAILING 8 WWD TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2012

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WWDMILESTONES Holt Raises the Luxury Ante President Mark Derbyshire discusses turning the business around, connecting with consumers and tightening ties to vendors. By David Moin

MARK DERBYSHIRE, the president of Holt Renfrew, thinks there’s been a huge misconception about the re- Mark Derbyshire tailer: That Canada’s only luxury chain has been on easy street, with no , or Neiman Marcus in its backyard to contend with. “‘Mark,’ they say. ‘You don’t have any competition.’

But I say I do. I’ve always had competition. Just look out the window,” Derbyshire said, pointing westward down Bloor Street. “You see a lot of my brands right down the street. Prada, Gucci, Chanel — they’re all out there.” So are , Hugo Boss and Hermès. Nordstrom is on·· its way to Canada, too, and will open in fall 2014 in Calgary’s Chinook Centre, and subse- quently in Ottawa’s Rideau Centre, the Pacific Centre in Vancouver and Sherway Gardens in Toronto. Nordstrom envisions nine full-line stores and 12 to 15 Rack outlets in Canada. There are rumors that Bloomingdale’s has been eyeing Canada, as well. “We are seeing a surge, but I don’t think it’s anything too new,” Derbyshire said. During an interview at Holt’s 60 Bloor Street head- quarters, Derbyshire made a simple, though often unrealized point. Those shopping Holt Renfrew, typi- We really have a good understanding of our markets, the subtleties of our markets and the subtleties of our customers. — MARK DERBYSHIRE

cally affluent and cosmopolitan, are also shopping Saks and Bergdorf Goodman in New York, Harrods in London, Lane Crawford in Asia, or Galeries Lafayette in Paris. The Holt Renfrew customer is international and travels frequently, Derbyshire pointed out. So Holt Renfrew feels competition, even from afar, and monitors it closely. “When Saks breaks sale, it cer- tainly does affect our customer,” Derbyshire said. “Competition makes us good. Competition makes us better. We really have a good understanding of our markets, the subtleties of our markets and·· the subtle- ties of our customers.” He said the evidence is in the numbers and that Holt’s been turned around since the recession. EBIT, or earnings before interest and taxes, in 2010 was double that of the previous best year. Holt had even more profit in 2011, and 2012 will be even better than last year, Derbyshire said. Volume for Holt Renfrew, which operates nine luxury stores, one outlet and a private shopping suite where personal shoppers pull merchandise from various stores for customers, is approaching $800 million. Revenues rose 21 percent

through 2010 and 2011. CHRIS NICOLLS PHOTO BY Holt could reach $1 billion in sales by 2015, sourc- es said, and in the years ahead will be lifted by its includes Holt, Selfridges in London, Brown Thomas “neck-in-neck” with the Bloor Street flagship as the three-year, $300 million expansion program, calling in Ireland, Ogilvy in Montreal and De Bijenkorf in chain’s top volume store. To further refine the buy, for a 40 percent increase in square footage through The Netherlands. “We took a very long-term view. We buyers and sales associates are “thinking and acting renovations and relocations, and a secondary chain looked at the store experience, the product assort- differently, working closer together,” Derbyshire said, launching next year, called hr2, which will sell con- ments, at the brands and the pricing. We had 16 price in a shift in the culture. “Our buyers are spending temporary designer merchandise. It’s believed that promotions in 2009 that we cut down to six in 2010 and more time in the shops to see the reactions of shop- other new concepts are on the drawing board, as Holt dropped it to four this year. We really focused on a pers. The buyers still buy, and the sellers still sell, but embarks on an aggressive growth phase to meet the full-price selling model.” if we get together as a team, focus more on the cus- rising competition. In addition, efforts were made to better under- tomer, we’ll buy more of what the customer wants.” However, Holt officials maintain that the growth stand the needs of each of Holt’s nine luxury stores, Derbyshire knew Holt had a history of focusing on strategies, revealed in recent weeks, reflect seasons and refine the buy. For example, in Vancouver, a pro- products and how stores appeared but he keeps on of deep analysis, learning about the strengths and gressive city with gray, depressing weather, it was de- learning. He’s talked to hundreds of employees, ven- weaknesses of the company, leading to the restoration termined that color, brights, jewelry and a bit more dors and customers to uncover opportunities for im- of some fundamental retail best practices. A “founda- bling, had to be showcased better to uplift the clien- provement. He’s famous for showing up in the Bloor tion” for growth was built. tele, whereas in Montreal, European styling to reflect Street flagship at 6:30 a.m., for more fact-finding. “The “We set a five-year strategy and really articulated that city’s attitude and culture has been the ticket. visual team is working. There are products going onto what we had to do,” said Derbyshire, who joined Holt When the Vancouver store first opened, there the floor, and I look at the people in the kitchen pre- as president in January 2010 after serving as chief was skepticism that the city was too casual for Holt paring the food. I am amazed at the energy, even when talent officer for the Selfridges Group Ltd., which Renfrew. Yet the location, said Derbyshire, is now {Continued on page 10} Congratulations Holt Renfrew on 175 years of unparalleled Passion for Excellence. 10 WWD TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDMILESTONES Holt Renfrew in Calgary. Derbyshire’s Five-Year Plan {Continued from page 8} we are closed.” He’s also conducted focus groups, and has made it a habit to have lunch with a customer or two every week. He learned employees were not fully engaged, though they wanted to be, and customers liked the store but liked it best when there was a sale, or for special oc- casion purchases. He learned that customers increasing- ly wanted what’s new, and that smaller, more frequent deliveries would be beneficial. And when such deliv- eries don’t materialize, it becomes “a matter of visual standards and focusing on what is here and presenting it differently.” He also learned that vendors thought Holt could be a stronger partner. “The first three years were about simplifying and get- ting the house in order. It was infrastructure, logistics, how to get close to the customer,” Derbyshire recalled. “We were not talking about growth. We had to build a better foundation. We needed to focus on the customer.” It became clear things had to change, and Derbyshire and the team had to make it happen. In September 2010, Derbyshire launched the “pres- ident’s bet” whereby sales associates received $100 if they hit their plan by the end of the year, and $500 if they hit it a month early. All non-sales employees were also eligible, if their teams or stores hit their targets, marking the first time many of them had a chance for a bonus. There were no losers. If someone missed their goal, they had to donate some time to charity. One year, the winners went to Las Vegas. The next round of winners will go to New York, for a trip com- bining pleasure with business, be that a Broadway show and visits to showrooms. Derbyshire said Holt’s sales associates have im- mersed themselves in product knowledge to bet- ter understand brands. They’ve traveled to the New York, Milan and Paris markets, and vendors come to Canada. There’s more of a back and forth, which Derbyshire said brings greater understanding of the products, which leads to a more authentic store expe- rience that customers relate to. In 2009, Holt had 56 associates who were $1 million sellers. Now there are at least twice that number. To better partner with vendors, Derbyshire said, he established a “big-bets” strategy, identifying brands that could be bigger volume contributors and could double their business with the store in the next three years. Three- and five-year plans with the brands, such the profits to the designer’s charity of choice. The items year. The company expects to open hr2 stores across as Saint Laurent, Prada, Tom Ford, Hugo Boss, Gucci get played up on the Web site, in the stores and with the country, probably around nine. Officials said hr2 and Burberry have been developed, rethinking how designer appearances. Holt to date has raised between will not carry any of the same merchandise sold at each is presented, where they are located, the adver- $500,000 and $600,000 on these cause-related campaigns. Holt Renfrew stores, though the new retail division tising and marketing as well as the volume objectives. “Our philosophy is all about relationships — rela- will be stocked with lower-priced or secondary labels “Big bets” encompass certain categories, such as tionships with employees, relationships with vendors from many of the same designers and brands that sup- shoes and leather goods, while Holt also has prospects and relationships with customers,” Derbyshire said. ply Holt Renfrew with their top-priced lines. Officials for men’s wear, particularly tailored clothes. “Customers don’t come to us to buy a handbag or a are not ready yet to disclose the vendor matrix. Holt began supporting causes near and dear to ven- dress. Customers come to us because they want to feel “Holt Renfrew has always been about style, luxury, dors. Instead of asking them to help Holt raise money, great. We sell feeling great.” an extraordinary shopping experience. Hr2 will be no the retailer offered to help them raise money. “We In March, Holt will unveil a 30,000-square-foot store different but will enable us to reach markets that we flipped it,” Derbyshire said. It’s a uniform approach, called hr2 in Montreal’s Quartier DIX30 shopping cen- have not been able to serve,” Derbyshire said. whereby Holt sells 10,000 units of an exclusive, design- ter. It’s geared to “fill a void in the Canadian market.” In an even bigger growth maneuver, the Holt lux- er-made item, priced $50, covers its costs and donates A second location is planned for early next ury chain intends to increase its square footage by 40 percent by the end of 2015 by enlarging, renovat- ing or relocating existing stores. All stores will be af- Oscar de la Renta fected, though the store count will be unchanged. In showcased at the the first leg of the expansion journey, Holt Renfrew Bloor Street flagship. in the Yorkdale Shopping Centre in Toronto will double its space to 120,000 square feet by August 2013. Derbyshire said the store, which is rather un- remarkable now save for its location in one of North America’s most productive shopping malls, will be “spectacular and a real showcase for many of the world’s luxury brands,” with a grand atrium, a second floor that did not exist before and a host of new re- tail merchandising concepts, even one that’s kind of a throwback, a cobbler for men’s shoes. Derbyshire wouldn’t discuss details on other locations being over- hauled, though executives have acknowledged the Vancouver site could be enlarged and that discussions are under way with landlords controlling the various properties that comprise the Bloor Street flagship. Within the context of its 175-year history, “This is a very exciting time for us,” Derbyshire said. Then again, “Holt Renfrew has always been a very special place in the hearts of Canadians. “I remember as a kid, you came here to get good clothes. We used to look in the windows and see peo- Tom Ford is part of Holt’s “big-bets” strategy. ple inside and they all looked good. There was always

PHOTOS BY GEORGE PIMENTEL FOR HOLT RENFREW HOLT FOR PIMENTEL GEORGE BY PHOTOS this energy.” is a registered trademark of Hunter Boot Limited HUNTER

Congratulations on 175 years!

www.hunter-boot.com 12 WWD TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2012

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WWDMILESTONES

A bag from Party Time Michael Michael Kors. An array of products and events marked the 175th. By David Moin

FOR ITS 175th anniversary celebration in $40, and Diet Coke at $7 for a six-pack. Christian September, Holt Renfrew went all out with a Louboutin went on the edge, creating a “trash” wave of appearances by designers and celebri- shoe adorned with pencil shavings, tickets to ties, including Sir Elton John at the Bloor Street runway shows, business cards, metro cards and flagship, a street party in Toronto, a 12-minute other things likely to be otherwise discarded. film tribute to the store (in 3-D) on the flagship “He did 50 pairs. Every one was different,” Di facade, a stepped-up awards program for em- Bratto said. ployees and a slew of commemorative products There were also suede pumps from Manolo from designers, in Holt’s signature magenta. Blahnik, dresses from Alice + Olivia and “We approached our key vendors to share in Roberto Cavalli, canvas totes from Michael the celebration and create unique and exclusive Kors, and a Giorgio Armani lipstick. Holt dis- products. They became keepsakes,” said Pat Di patched a pop-up truck to travel across Canada Bratto, Holt’s senior vice president of buying from Quebec to Vancouver. “Most of the product and merchandising. development took six months, but we talked to To attract an audience across a spectrum of vendors a year in advance,” Di Bratto said. “We demographics, the range of exclusives was wide, were selective in our approach. We didn’t want from a $16,800 David Yurman mixed colored to overquantify.” Basically, the commemorative stone necklace and Max Mara $3,840 ostrich product was a sellout, though officials said some handbag, to Kate Spade iPhone cases, priced at Diet Cokes can still be purchased.

An anniversary Coke six-pack.

IPhone cases by Kate Spade.

Christian A crowd waited for Louboutin Michael Kors at the shoes. Bloor Street flagship. — HAPPY 175TH

—

PLACE STE-FOY AND QUEBEC CITY PAY TRIBUTE TO THIS GREAT RETAILER OF LUXURY GOODS AND TO ITS CONTRIBUTION TO FASHION, AS IT CONTINUES TO INFLUENCE QUEBECERS’ STYLE WITH DISTINCTION AND FLAIR. 14 WWD TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2012

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WWDMILESTONES Prototype of the Future Holt Renfrew’s Yorkdale store is getting a total overhaul as “the beta-test” for the luxury chain. By David Moin

FIRST IMPRESSIONS COUNT, and Holt Renfrew is hoping for a really A rendering of the next generation store design. good one with its store in the Yorkdale Shopping Centre in Toronto. It’s undergoing a complete overhaul, doubling its size over the next year and representing the first leg of a three- year, $300 million journey to upgrade and expand all nine units in the Holt Renfrew fleet. The chainwide program calls for renovations, relocations and a 40 percent increase in square footage,

but no increase in the store count. “Yorkdale is the beta-test store for the other stores,” said Natalie Penno, vice president of operations. Standing next to a scale model of the Yorkdale prototype, Penno explained

that the store is being re-created from a standard department-store format to a series of specialty stores contained within a much bigger box that will house some never-before-seen concepts that could be cloned to other Holt locations. “It’s not a traditional·· racetrack lay- out,” said Penno. “Every department will have its own personality and be- come a place of discovery.” “The format is new. It is innovative. But we’ve mitigated the risk, because it’s based on things we’ve done before, and it’s based on listening to custom- ers,” said Holt Renfrew’s president Mark Derbyshire. “It reflects what em- ployees and what our vendors want to see, and at the very heart of it all, it’s what our customers want.”

Among the most dramatic elements There’s a grooming area, where you of the Yorkdale prototype: can get a shave, a made-to-measure Every department will have its own Q Space overall will double to 120,000 shop for customizing the fit and details square feet from 60,000 square feet. of garments, a wet bar and a men’s as- personality and become a place of discovery. Holt is creating a 22,000-square-foot sortment that will change on a monthly second level out of a former food court basis and be highly “curated” to show- and converting a parking lot into a sell- case the latest and coolest styles so — NATALIE PENNO ing area. men can see a sampling of what’s in Q A two-story facade [rare for mall re- the store and get some quick shopping tailing] with a 30-foot-high glass wall by ideas. “The Lounge will be very direc- the entrance flanked by two 30-foot-by- tional and very approachable,” Penno 15-foot video walls for fashion shows said. Elsewhere in men’s, there will and live feeds. The frontage widens to be six hard shops including the first 600 feet from 300 feet for a clear view of Paul Smith shop-in-shop and shops the grand staircase, creating a theatri- for Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio cal and spacious ambience. Armani, Burberry and Ralph Lauren. Q Prada, Chanel, Gucci and Louis With women’s as well, Holt is think- Vuitton will have their own entrances. ing out of the box. A 7,000-square-foot Q Footwear will quadruple to almost contemporary department will, for the 10,000 square feet, with a shoe hall first time, integrate men’s and women’s ·· spotlighting Gucci, Jimmy Choo, Prada merchandise from Rag & Bone, Vince, and Stuart Weitzman, and a Christian Burberry Brit and Marc by Marc Jacobs, Louboutin “apartment” modeled after among other labels. Holt Renfrew ex- the Louboutin space in Selfridges. ecutives have concluded that based on Q Leather goods will at least double its statistical evidence, focus groups and space to about 10,000 square feet; jew- their own observations, 85 percent of elry and watches will triple their space. the time in contemporary sportswear, Leather goods and women’s shoes are men’s purchases are influenced by “dominant areas,” with front-and-center women. “We’re seeing a real crossover positioning in the store, Derbyshire noted. in contemporary,” Derbyshire said. On Friday, a reenvisioned men’s There will also be integration of floor with 18,000 square feet compared men’s and women’s products in sun- with the old 11,000-square-foot setting, glasses, jewelry and watches with such makes its debut, giving shoppers a taste brands as Tag Heuer, David Yurman of things to come. Like leather goods and Links of London. On the other and women’s shoes, men’s wear is an hand, the merchandise remains seg- area of great focus and opportunity for regated in designer, where women Holt Renfrew, which is apparent from mostly shop without men by their sides, an innovative feature within men’s Derbyshire said. called the Lounge. Far from being a The women’s floor overall, said place to just kick back while the spouse Penno, won’t read as if you are walk- combs the store, the 4,000-square-foot ing into a lineup of designer shops, and Lounge, said Penno, is “experiential,” will instead have an open format for

PHOTO BY GEORGE PIMENTEL/HOLT RENFREW GEORGE PIMENTEL/HOLT PHOTO BY offering a variety of men’s services. {Continued on page 16} JIMMYCHOO.COM

CONGRATULATIONS ON 175 YEARS 16 WWD TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2012

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WWDMILESTONES Renderings of the new store design. Prototype Of the Future

{Continued from page 14} a Chanel shop for fragrance and beauty, flexibility so the team can quickly and an Hermès fragrance shop. change the merchandise depending on The store is being staged with a se- sales results, trends and arrivals. There ries of launches as construction on will be a new designer apparel de- different departments gets completed, partment introducing labels including leading to the grand reopening in the Prada, Stella McCartney, Pucci, Comme fall of 2013. The renovation work on the des Garçons, Isabel Marant and Kenzo. Yorkdale store, which was built in 1964, Cosmetics will double in space to began last July. 10,000 square feet and feature a beauty “We have been progressing at a very bar where the beauty experts aren’t tied fast cadence,” Penno said, despite the to any brands and will be “unbiased” apparent complexities of creating an el- in recommending beauty regimens and evated shopping experience. “There is products, Derbyshire said. There will an enterprising spirit that lives in this also be a brow bar, manicures, blowouts, company,” added Derbyshire.

Designers Weigh In A stream of store appearances and events has forged a bond between makers and merchant. By Rosemary Feitelberg

WITH A LOYAL following of American Tory Burch LLC, said, “Holt Renfrew and European shoppers, Holt was one of our first international ac- Renfrew has also cultivated devotees counts in 2005, and they have been a among designers. fantastic partner from Day One.” As the retailer celebrates its 175th, The high-end store was also one of a number of top-shelf American brands the first international accounts for Elie talked up what they see as the compa- Tahari, who has had more than a 30-year ny’s strengths. Whether relatively new history with Holt Renfrew. More recent- to the retailer or a long-established ly, his company has worked with a dedi- partner, companies pledged their alle- cated specialist team there for 12 years. giance to the Canadian-based store. “Holt Renfrew is the best in the Holt Renfrew had the foresight to business in terms of incorporating de- Jeff pick Tory Burch in 2005, at a time when signers’ visions of their collection and Rudes the designer label was still establish- translating that to the consumer on Elie of ing itself as a lifestyle concept with the selling floor,” he said. “They are a Tahari J Brand. multiple product categories, including top retailer in Canada with stores still ready-to-wear, handbags, shoes and reaching record sales with such a loyal jewelry. Brigitte Kleine, president of customer following.” create that ultraluxe atmosphere.” of building women’s.” Besides the skilled sales The designer continued, “The Elie As for how the Canadian shopper Tory Burch feed bags were staff, Tahari noted how the Tahari/Holt Renfrew consumer is all differs from American ones, he said, made for a charity event. store’s decor appeals to about luxury — she wants to look sophis- “The Canadian shopper is sophisti- customers on anoth- ticated and feminine. We’ve had great cated and similarly aligned with the er level. success in dressing women in luxurious, American shopper. In some instances, “The modern modern pieces to wear to the office and they are looking for more fashion.” architecture in- for a weekend out. She finds the versatil- Gale also noted that the turnout was corporated with ity in the garments and has a true appre- “sensational” for a recent in-store event the unique styles ciation for the quality of workmanship of that showcased the rtw and denim col- from various each piece within the collection.” lections. “And consumer awareness was vendors truly Arnie Gale, J Brand’s president of increased to another level.” makes this the sales, described the retailer as “one of Jonathan Saven, president of ultimate store the most prestigious department stores Splendid, said, “Holt Renfrew is known for designers globally.” for housing the world’s most prestigious to house and J Brand’s presence in the store has brands and innovative designers.” showcase their grown over the years. Like other labels sold by the special- collections,” he “We began selling to Holt Renfrew ty store, he said Holt Renfrew’s wealth said. “Beyond back in 2005. Our presence in women’s of brands and designer labels is one of product, their denim…continues to grow strong. We its greater strengths. “Holt Renfrew’s entire retail team launched women’s ready-to-wear last attention to internationally known is well-versed on spring and we are seeing healthy con- brands, both established and up-and- the newest trends sumer acceptance for this product,” coming, is second to none,” Saven said. as well as classic Gale said. “We recently launched men’s “Its well-curated assortment makes designs. More im- denim and we are already seeing great Holt Renfrew a shopping destination portantly, they help results, as like we saw in the early days with far-reaching appeal.”

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WWDMILESTONES Designer Game Plan An expanded assortment of top designer names is integral to the store’s strategy. By Jean E. Palmieri

UPSCALE DESIGNER brands will be technology in skin care, it’s difficult for the linchpin of Holt Renfrew’s aggres- customers to navigate through every- sive expansion plan. thing,” Di Bratto said. “This will have a As the department store chain more holistic point of view and there’s ramps up to add 40 percent more no fee or obligation to purchase.” square footage to its network of stores The beauty hall will also offer “pam- by 2015, the merchandising team is pering” experiences such as hair blow- working to upgrade and expand the outs, nail stations and eyebrow styling. assortment as well. The culmination Photo stations will capture how make- of that work will be front and center overs were done, allowing customers to when the Yorkdale store renovation is e-mail the finished result to themselves unveiled in August. That store, which or share it on social networks. will double in size to more than 120,000 Many of the initiatives showcased square feet, will offer a slew of new in Yorkdale will roll out to Holt’s other designer brands in women’s and men’s regional stores in varying degrees, she apparel and footwear, as well as a num- said, depending upon the size and loca- ber of what the company is calling “in- tion of the unit. Each store is slated to novative luxury encounters.” be expanded and updated, with some “We’re really in a growth mode,” completely rebuilt, but because the said Pat Di Bratto, senior vice presi- company has only nine full-line stores, dent of buying and merchandising and it allows for true “personalization and the chief architect of these elevated localization of the assortments. As an

initiatives. “We’ve had two consecutive RENFREW GEORGE PIMENTEL FOR HOLT PHOTOS BY record-breaking profitable years in a row, and we’re expecting a third.” Pat Di Bratto As chief merchant, she said, “I’ve been working with our team over the past two years to redefine our assort- ment.” That includes “delisting 22 media merchandising walls and brands” that the store had carried in the curated monthly collections fea- past in favor of others, including Gucci, turing must-haves for men in a va- Prada, Alexander McQueen, Dolce & riety of categories. Gabbana, Etro, Stella McCartney, Pucci, Once they venture out of Comme des Garçons, Isabel Marant and the men’s den, they can stroll Kenzo, among others. through a new 7,000-square-foot A new focus on products with ex- “shared shopping” department, clusive or limited distribution at Holt where Holt will be merchandis- stores is also part of the equation. ing contemporary brands such “We’re redefining our brand portfo- as Burberry Brit, Rag & Bone, lio,” Di Bratto said. “We’re cognizant Vince and other labels aimed at of our luxury positioning and have es- a younger customer. “It’s a mod- tablished a strategy for our large, core ern way to shop,” Di Bratto said. vendors to be profitable in our stores.” “When we observed shopping Vendors are already reaping the patterns, we found that the 18- to benefits — sales of Givenchy Homme 34-year-olds shop in packs. So we are up 285 percent, Canali has risen decided to give them an incred- 218 percent and Gucci 56 percent. And ible shared experience.” the plan going forward is to double the Men’s and women’s wear will business over a three-year period with be merchandised together, and about 20 key brands, including Saint the shared shopping area will Laurent, Tom Ford, Ferragamo, Rag & also offer some new exclusive Bone, , Hugo Boss, products, including Zadig & Brunello Cucinelli, David Yurman, Jo Voltaire and Reiss. Malone, Crème de la Mer and Sisley. The women’s area will be full Victoria Beckham’s The men’s business, which current- of designer names like Tom Ford, line is exclusive to Holt ly accounts for 16 percent of sales but which is exclusive in Canada, Renfrew in Canada. is expected to grow to 20 percent, is Saint Laurent, Alexander among the focus areas. Di Bratto said McQueen, Dolce & Gabbana that in the past Holt had viewed the (exclusive), Victoria Beckham (exclu- bler-inspired shoe care,” complete with organization, we want to ensure that category “through a women’s lens. But sive), Celine, Chloé, Stella McCartney, shoe shines and minor repairs. Several we’re nimble and can make adjust- we’re repositioning and managing it Lanvin, (exclusive), The of the brands, including Gucci, Jimmy ments to ensure we’re relevant today from a man’s sensibility.” Row, Marni, Dries Van Noten, Rick Choo and Prada, will be housed in dis- and in the future.” Besides an expanded assortment Owens, Oscar de la Renta, Donna tinct “environments,” she noted. It will She said the core Holt Renfrew cus- and its own dedicated entrance, the Karan (exclusive) and others. also offer the first Christian Louboutin tomer is 35 to 50 years old and loyal Yorkdale store will open a groom- Designers in apparel and acces- “apartment” in North America. to the store but 18- to 34-year-olds are ing and men’s lounge, or “den,” as Di sories will also be given a home with “There will be a lot of personality as key to the future. “That’s the fastest- Bratto called it, where guys can ex- Tabitha Simmons, Peter Pilotto, you walk through,” she said. growing segment of our customer port- plore skin-care offerings in private Altuzarra, MSGM, Kenzo, Acne, Carven, “Traditionally, when you enter a folio,” she said, noting that was the and get a shave. Additionally, dressing Victoria by Victoria Beckham and store, you walk into the beauty depart- reason for the creation of the shared rooms have been enlarged with lay ta- Comme des Garçons, being offered ex- ment, but in Yorkdale, it will be leather shopping department. bles, a hidden wet bar and interactive clusively at the store. And the personal- goods.” That category, too, is seen as a Despite the loyalty of its customer, Di toys. “We’re trying to gain a point of dif- shopping area is being tripled in size. growth opportunity for the chain and Bratto acknowledged that Holt Renfrew ferentiation,” she said. Footwear is also getting a major will be expanded by two and a half times faces some tough competition from lux- Key brands will include McQueen, boost in Yorkdale. The women’s shoe at Yorkdale. Additionally, the space de- ury retailers in the U.S. and around the Thomas Pink, Dolce & Gabbana and department, which has been expe- voted to jewelry and watches will be tri- world. “We deal with the world stage,” — exclusive with Holt outside their riencing double-digit growth, will pled, and there will be a private room for Di Bratto said, “whether that’s south of own stores — Etro, Gucci, Prada and expand to almost 10,000 square feet consultations and sales, as well as new the border or e-commerce. Our custom- Armani. Givenchy and Dsquared2 will — more than four times its current brands such as Tag Heuer. ers are well-traveled, so we’re focused be introduced at Yorkdale along with size — and will feature a shoe hall of- Not to be outdone, the beauty de- on making them feel great in our store a Ralph Lauren shop and the first Paul fering brands such as Gucci, Jimmy partment is also getting a facelift. The and giving them a reason to come back. Smith in-store shop in North America. Choo, Christian Louboutin, Prada and new beauty hall will also have its own “We’re building the store of the fu- The men’s lounge will also offer a dedi- Stuart Weitzman. entrance and skin-care consultants ture,” she continued. “People come to cated made-to-measure area — a red- “We’re positioning ourselves to dom- will be employed that are not specific our stores to look good and feel good, hot category that is underdeveloped at inate in the luxury fashion footwear to any brand but who will work with and we build relationships with our Holt — and the staff devoted to men’s business in Canada,” she said. customers to choose the right prod- clients. After all, we’ve known this cus- will be doubled. There will be multi- The shoe hall will also feature “cob- ucts for their needs. “With all the new tomer for 175 years.” CONGRATULATIONS HOLT RENFREW ON 175 YEARS OF LUXURY AND STYLE

LONGCHAMP.COM 20 WWD TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2012

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Director’s Cut For 25 years, Barbara Atkin has spearheaded Holt Renfrew’s fashion point of view. By Marc Karimzadeh

THE WAY BARBARA ATKIN of fashion trends. It’s a man- for the same collections world- sees it, the role of a fashion date she took on practically wide, and we want to bench- director is a lot like that of a from Day One. mark ourselves against the best teacher. Both, she said, require “I was looking at that cus- in the world. Retail landscapes ·· bringing “huge thought process- tomer worldwide, under- can become a bit homogenized es” and “a vision” to the table. standing what that customer with the same collections ev- That Holt Renfrew’s vice wanted, and what the best re- erywhere, so bringing in new- president of fashion direction tail stores in the world were ness constantly has become so would use such an analogy is offering beyond product,” she important to us.” no coincidence. Prior to her said. “I never stopped think- Personal appearances are career in fashion, Atkin was ing like a customer. The day one area Atkin considers key. a teacher in Canada’s public great retailers stop focusing Oscar de la Renta, Michael school system — mainly in on the customer is the day Kors, Stella McCartney, and primary schools working with they disappear. I looked at so- Peter Pilotto are among the children of recent immigrants cial change, and understand- designers who have come to and helping them ease the ing the connection between Canada for a visit. “They are transition and acclimatization social change and business the superstar, and the cus- to the new culture. opportunity, I took each trend tomer wants to touch and feel “Fashion,” Atkin said, “was and translated it into strategic and say that they met that de- just always a love. It’s interest- merchandising themes. signer,” she noted. “When we ing how your career takes you “I think that came from launched Alexander Wang in on one road, but your passion my teaching background,” our store, we couldn’t believe The day great retailers stop takes you where you really she added. the lines that went all the way need to be.” Atkin stressed that she through the store and outside focusing on the customer That passion got a real jolt doesn’t look at Holt Renfrew on to the street.” in the late Seventies, when just within the context of That particular experience Atkin met Canadian designer Canada’s retailing scene. She was an “eye-opener” in more is the day they disappear. Wayne Clark at a party. She always measures the luxury ways than one. was instantly fascinated, so chain against the global com- “We saw how he was de- — BARBARA ATKIN much so that she decided to petition — Neiman Marcus, mocratizing fashion and speak- invest in the business. Bergdorf Goodman, Selfridges ing to a whole new customer, area at the retailer that is an will be a mix of guys and girls, “Through that, I slowly left or Lane Crawford. which was another trigger that incubator for emerging talent together in one area.” teaching and started running a “You need to have a point said, ‘The world of designer is from around the world. It has Keeping the store’s personal showroom company,” she said. of view — how are we going to changing,’” she observed. been the jumping-off point touch intact also remains para- “I had many designers working buy it differently from others? These days, Atkin keeps a for designers like Wang and mount with new developments. for me over the years and sold What do our customers like?” close watch on emerging tal- Joseph Altuzarra, and often “We speak to our customers them to many retailers. Holt she asked. “We’re all fighting ent via World Design Lab, an serves as an entry for local on a daily basis,” Atkin said, Renfrew was one of them.” designers like Toronto label recalling several special cus- Holt eventually bought the Greta Constantine. tomer surprises she and her business from Atkin. While there is no specific team cooked up for top cli- When the Weston family department earmarked for ents. “In Vancouver, for exam- bought Holt Renfrew in 1986, it Canadian designers — “I don’t ple, we have a customer who was looking to further develop like to merchandise by national- absolutely adores and collects the retailer and tap into new ity,” Atkin said — Holt supports jewelry. In May,·· we flew her customers, and executives at local talent in various ways. The with her personal shopper to the retailer singled out Atkin retailer is a sponsor of Toronto meet with one of her favor- as the perfect target shopper. Fashion Week, and its team also ite jewelry designers, in that “Smart retailers get into attends Montreal Fashion Week designer’s home and studio, the heart and soul of who to stay on the pulse of Canada’s and she did the most beauti- their customer is,” she relat- fashion scene. ful one-of-a-kind piece. In ed. “They identified me as a Often, Atkin works directly Calgary, the boyfriend of one customer that they wanted to with Canadian designers for of our top customers wanted attract, and before I knew it, several seasons before pre- us to surprise his girlfriend they coerced me, very nicely, senting them to the store’s with a present. We created to come and work for them.” The World Design Lab buying team. an experience and set up a Atkin recalled the early con- area for emerging talent. “Before it gets to the buyer, whole trip to Paris — she had versations precisely. “I said, ‘To I have to be really happy never been — to hook up with do what?’ They wanted me to with that collection,” she ex- me there. It was Alber Elbaz’s give them a point of view; first, Alexander Wang at plained. “This means I’m 10th anniversary at Lanvin. A to understand the customer — Holt in 2010. working with the designers by limo picked her up and she me being that customer — and having them understand what joined me at the fashion show then, to tell them about the merchandises well on the and after party.” things that I loved. What did floor, by looking at fit and how While these extravaganzas I like about shopping? What they can round out their col- aren’t exactly a regular gift- were the experiences? What lections. We work on pricing with-purchase, Atkin said it’s made me want to stay in the and help them identify who that close rapport she and her store longer? their customer is, and where team cultivate with customers “I never grew up thinking they see their collections mer- that adds a certain something that one day, I was going to be chandised in the store.” extra to Holt Renfrew. a fashion director,” she added, As for future evolution, “We know that at the end of a certain nonchalance pepper- Atkin offers a number of ideas. the day, those customers can ing her voice. “I don’t think I “I’m looking at the notion of buy things anywhere in the even knew that role existed.” gender, the blurring of gender, world, whether it’s online or Twenty-five years later, and how a young guy and girl any store, yet they choose to Atkin is considered the ul- shop,” she said. “We have tra- spend their time and money timate industry veteran: a ditionally merchandised our with us,” she said. “When you well-known personality in the stores with men’s on one side have a customer who trusts Canadian fashion scene and and women’s on the other. To you so much that they come to beyond, and a tour de force me, the contemporary world you for your suggestions, you who works closely with design- is about shopping as a social know you’ve really won them ers from New York, Paris and Oscar de la Renta activity — so we are going to over. And you’ve really won Milan. Her point of view keeps visits in 2010. build a shared shopping area. the title of the leading luxury

Holt Renfrew at the forefront RENFREW HOLT FOR PIMENTEL GEORGE BY PHOTOS RENTA LA DE AND WANG Our new contemporary world retailer in Canada.” COCO ROCHA FOR YORKDALE

Inspiring Canadian

style for 175 years.

Congratulations Holt Renfrew for

175 years of trendsetting style. Yorkdale

Shopping Centre and Oxford Properties

Group salute your signi!cant role in

shaping Canada’s fashion landscape

– and are proud to have a name

long-synonymous with excellence and

elegance in our collection of retailers.

MANAGED WITH PRIDE 22 WWD TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2012

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WWDMILESTONES The Contemporary Bet Holt aims at a younger demographic with a new concept. By David Moin

AT HR2, HOLT Renfrew’s upcoming divisions to tap the contemporary shipments. secondary chain, there’s a clear mis- business. Barneys has its Co-op, and Q Buying, operations and planning sion: capture the contemporary market Neiman’s has Cusp, though neither teams have been created, separate in Canada before the competition does. has entered Canada yet. But J. Crew from the Holt Renfrew team. Yet hr2’s leader and vice president, has already moved in and Nordstrom, Q Hr2 will not carry any of the same Heather Arts, says there’s been no rush which has a large contemporary busi- merchandise sold at Holt Renfrew distance” from Holt Renfrew stores to to pounce. ness, will enter the market in fall 2014 stores, though the new retail division help reach a new customer, though she “Hr2 is something we’ve been look- with a store in Calgary and visions of will be stocked with lower-priced or expects Holt Renfrew customers will ing at for over two years internally. It’s up to nine full-line stores throughout secondary labels from many of the same shop hr2 as well. not just a reaction to the expansion of the country. The Hudson’s Bay Co. is designers and brands that supply Holt Hr2’s target customer will be predom- all the competition from the U.S.,” said also spending big on modernizing and Renfrew with their top-priced lines. inantly female, 25 and older, “who really Arts, who was previously Holt’s vice contemporizing; designer boutiques There will, however, be a strong asso- appreciates great brands, maybe aspires president of special projects. “We’ve are slowly filtering into urban areas, ciation with Holt Renfrew considering to luxury brands. But hr2 will be provid- identified an opportunity with ven- and Intermix has already made a move signs and logos will say hr2 with Holt ing more affordable and attainable fash- Renfrew underneath. Hr2 shopping bags ions, and could lead to her shopping at will have the same white and magenta Holt Renfrew as well,” Arts said. A rendering of the hr2 coloring but in reverse from Holt’s. “One difference between ourselves contemporary concept. Q The stores will be designed to be and the people we are competing contemporary, clean and minimal, so against is that we are going to have the merchandise stands out. merchandisers based in the stores “The decor down to the fixtures, and [three per store] to maintain the look the ambience, will be totally different and feel and constant flow of product, from what’s out there,” Arts added, cit- so it maintains our standards, so sales ing such design elements as a polished people can focus on working with the concrete floor, a 20-foot long runway customers. These individuals will learn of mannequins, sculptural lighting re- and share certain practices with our sembling mobiles, digital signage (as team at Holt Renfrew.” opposed to banners or paper signs) and With the hr2 windows, “We are an “inspirational wall” that could fea- going to do something a little different

ture art installations. visually, working with Chicago-based Q Flexibility on the selling floor to fre- Bruce Mau visual firm, which helped quently adjust the displays rather than design the logo, signage and packaging. having hard shops. Hr2 will receive “Signage will be digital, with not a lot daily deliveries as product will be ex- of print. We are not going to clutter the pected to move fairly quickly. “We will front with a lot of signage.”

be out more frequently in the market Hr2 will make its debut in March with a 30,000-square-foot store in Montreal’s Quartier DIX30 shopping center. Another location is planned for Heather Arts Ontario early next year. “We are committed to this concept ·· and pretty confident it will succeed, so we are looking beyond those,” Arts said. However, once the first two units dors. They’ve got so much product. Holt across the border. open, “Give us some time to catch our Renfrew can’t carry it all under its roof. Asked how hr2 will breath [for tweaking the stores] before There is nothing like hr2 in Canada at be different from U.S. we go forward.” all. It represents a great opportunity to chains such as Co-op or The company expects to open hr2 grow with vendors with whom we have Cusp, Arts replied: “The stores across the country and about the great relationships already.” contemporary part will same amount as Holt Renfrew. “We see Arts said that even though retailing be similar. The differ- ourselves as a national chain by the in Canada has ignited with newcom- ence will be the expe- end of 2015. There is still a lot of great ers from the U.S., there’s still a gaping rience when you come real estate out there. There’s a lot of into the store.” Janson development and growth,” Arts said. Goldstein, the architec- “We are pretty open to different types tural and design firm, of locations,” from malls to street loca- Hr2 is something which has worked with tions to lifestyle centers. Holt Renfrew in the past, An hr2 Web site is not currently in has developed “a won- the works, though “it’s something po- we’ve been looking derful concept” that will tentially down the road,” Arts added. romance the product, Hr2 pricing, she said, will empha- at for over two years particularly with the way size “great brands at great value.... hr2 plans to “curate” the Consumers will understand the value internally. It’s not product, Arts said. than just the regular seasons,” Arts they are getting. What you see on the As for the challenges of launching said. Those markets will include New ticket will be the out-the-door price. We a new retail division, Arts replied, “At York, Europe, California and Canada. are not going to be screaming ‘40 per- just a reaction to the the moment, there really aren’t any. Our Holt Renfrew executives would not cent off,’” though there will be end-of- vendors have been very receptive. They say how much volume they expect hr2 season sales, and normal markdowns. expansion of all trust us to get it right. We will display to generate but it should be significant The advertising will be more institu- them carefully, at a very high level.” considering the planned size of the tional and “won’t be screaming out the competition In the rundown of hr2, Arts said the stores and the success other retailers brand names.” plan is for: are experiencing with contemporary Asked if she felt anxious at all about from the U.S. Q 25,000 to 30,000 square-foot settings sportswear, where there’s been more the project, Arts replied, “It’s definitely selling women’s, men’s, accessories, fashion newness, novelty, sales growth one of the highlights of my career. My fashion and costume jewelry; footwear; and lower prices compared to other experience has really focused on start- — HEATHER ARTS handbags and leather goods. Women’s women’s areas. ing up businesses.” will represent about 50 percent of the Arts said she sees potential syner- She noted she was with Winners as a hole in the contemporary market that volume; men’s, 20 percent; with foot- gies between Holt Renfrew and hr2 senior vice president and general mer- hr2 intends to fill. In addition, while wear, accessories and jewelry repre- and expects the two businesses will chandise manager when that business women’s ready-to-wear at most stores senting the remaining 30 percent. share information on brands and enter started up in the Eighties, and was also has generally been weak, the contem- Q Merchandising will be head-to-toe, some showrooms together in some part of the team that started up Lowe’s porary sportswear component is per- and more by casual and career life- instances, but stressed that the mer- in Canada, as a merchandising director. forming well and growing. styles and evening merchandise. chandise at hr2 and Holt Renfrew will “I am not nervous,” Arts said. Neiman Marcus and Barneys New Q Space will be devoted to seasonal be totally different. Arts also said hr2 “Maybe the night before we open, I will York years ago launched·· secondary themes, brand highlights and daily stores will be situated “somewhat of a think differently.” RENFREW OF HOLT RENFREW; RENDERING COURTESY GEORGE PIMENTEL/HOLT PHOTO BY ARTS CONGRATULATIONS

YEARS175 OF EXCELLENCE 24 WWD TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2012

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WWDMILESTONES On a Youth Click Holt Renfrew kicked up its digital presence this Holt Renfrew’s past year with a blog launch and a host of initiatives exclusive Missoni bears photographed on various social platforms. By Rachel Strugatz in Milan (left) and in Vancouver. FOR A 175-year-old, Holt Renfrew in Toronto that took place Sept. 6. The navigates social media like a teenager. store’s overall messaging for the mile- The retailer has spent the past year stone was slightly retro, with a nod to carefully building its social media the retailer’s rich history, but also to presence, with a primary goal of reach- “assert our strong fashion leadership ing a younger demographic. going forward.” E- and m-commerce remain less of a The element of the celebration focus for Canada’s leading luxury retail- that was most geared toward the so- er, which wants to make sure its digital cial space was a Holt Renfrew pop- message is in line with its overall mis- up truck that drove across the coun- sion: providing customers with an ex- try selling Hot@175 sweatshirts, traordinary experience. hitting each of the nine cities where “Our whole marketing strategy is the retailer has a store. According to integrated across all channels — from Barkwell, seven designers and artists digital to social media to print,” said were commissioned to design sweat- Holt’s senior vice president of sales shirts that featured their own interpre- and marketing, Alix Box. tation of what it means to be Hot@175. Active on platforms including The campaign was promoted on so- Twitter, Facebook, Pinterest, Instagram cial media through Twitter, Facebook and its blog, Holts Muse, manager of and Instagram with the hashtag social media content Brittany Barkwell #HoltPopUp with updates through- added that the retailer uses these plat- out, and each designer appeared in a forms to translate the physical shop- corresponding video that was shared ping experience online, “create an across various digital media, as well. extra world on the digital platforms” “The staff that traveled said that and in its first month the blog saw “That’s part of our marketing strategy and drive foot traffic in-store. the people who came [to the pop-up 45,000 hits. Since then, Holts Muse — using different platforms for different “We always want to be current and truck] heard about it through social has continued to partner with leading purposes to create the overall experi- relevant, and [this means] getting on media. It was a great test to see how bloggers, including Emily Schuman of ence. That’s a way that we distinguish board with new platforms — but in a this reaches our customers of a young- Cupcakes and Cashmere, as well as de- ourselves. We have a very integrated ap- way that fits in with our marketing er demographic. It really drove them signers like Victoria Beckham (whose proach, and we try to incorporate social strategy,” Barkwell said. to the trucks and got them shopping,” video interview received 28,000 hits on media into public relations and tradi- Box reinforced that it’s all about Barkwell said, adding that shoppers YouTube), Tabitha Simmons, Rachel tional marketing channels,” Barkwell welding this to the in-store experience. who purchased from any of the trucks Zoe, Rag & Bone’s David Neville and said, adding that its Web site holtrenfew. “That is our differentiator. We received an additional promotion to Marcus Wainwright, Bruno Frissoni com — which gets about 300,000 visits a work hard to make sure that we’re drive traffic back to the store. and Aerin Lauder. month — has a portion on the site that Most recently, Holt Renfrew worked directs readers to its blog. on a charitable partnership with This month, the retailer appointed Missoni and OrphanAid Africa that Lisa Tant to a new fashion editor role. featured two stuffed animals — a bear As part of the marketing division, the and elephant — were created in the former editor of Canadian fashion mag- brand’s signature zigzag print which azine Flare will focus heavily on col- hit stores and holtrenfrew.com Nov. 1. laborating with social media programs. Margherita Missoni visited the Holt Renfrew was one of the ear- retailer’s Bloor Street location in lier retailers to embrace bloggers. Toronto last week to kick off sales Its first blogger project dates to 2009, of the $50 limited-edition toys, with when the retailer rolled out a nation- all net proceeds going to OrphanAid al campaign with windows celebrat- Africa. The goal is to raise $100,000. ing bloggers like The Sartorialist’s The campaign — which includes in- Scott Schuman, Garance Dore, Jane store elements, print, video, the Missoni Aldridge, Bryanboy and Tommy Ton event and online components — features (who once worked at the Bloor Street a Facebook contest in which the winner store). Schuman hosted a party in is eligible to win a signed stuffed animal honor of this campaign at the store, and $350 worth of Missoni accessories. where his work was exhibited, and he There’s even a guerrilla element also spoke at a cocktail event. that started in Milan during fashion Despite a strong digital presence and week when the store’s vice president an early adoption of the blogosphere, of fashion direction, Barbara Atkin, though, Holt Renfrew is still neither e- started taking pictures of the Missoni commerce nor m-commerce enabled. bear engaged in classic Italian activi- Box maintains that its sister retailer — ties (like perched atop a Vespa), chron- U.K.-based Selfridges — has taken the icling the trip back to Canada. Since lead with e-commerce plans and no up- then, the store has posted images of date was available at press time. the bear at various Canadian land- Holtrenfrew.com did see a complete marks, such as the Ironworks building overhaul in mid-August, when a slew in Vancouver’s Gastown area, Mount of features was implemented. Besides Royal in Montreal, the CN Tower and the ability to post richer content, more Holt Renfrew’s blog, Holts Muse. the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. than 1,000 products across numerous Barkwell added that consumers have categories were launched on its digital focused on the customer and speak- From Aug. 24 to Sept. 30, the started doing the same with the bear flagship, something Box contends wasn’t ing to them the way they want to be #HoltPopUp hashtag reached more and posting the photos. possible on the old site. Consumers spoken to — whether it’s digital or in- than 50,000 Twitter users and 80,000 When asked which social media also have access to robust product cata- store,” Box explained. Facebook users. The posts relating to platform garners the most engagement logues, alternate product views, design- Detailing the store’s multipronged the trucks on holtsmuse.com garnered with fans, Barkwell insists there is no er look books and videos and integration approach, Box said the program, which more than 10,000 unique page views. one leader. Different types of content to blog content and the Holt Style Guide. was put in motion in early September Barkwell said the store really are promoted on different channels — “The bottom line is that it gives for the store’s 175th anniversary, fea- wanted to create a lot of buzz upon for instance, while Instagram might be customers more to look at and see our tures an online and social media the launch of the Holts Muse blog last best for promoting product as it arrives breadth and depth of assortment and campaign, Hot@175. It integrated all November. The retailer tapped blogger in-store because of the platform’s visu- find what they want,” Box said. “It’s a aspects of digital, print, visual, events Leandra Medine of the Man Repeller al properties, Facebook is more suited great window-shopping experience, and in-store, including a street party to host a party at the Toronto store, for sharing blog and editorial content. which was our goal.”

26 WWD TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2012

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WWDMILESTONES

Selfridges in London. In the Family Holt parent Selfridges Group is part of the vast holdings of the Weston family that include fashion, food and more. By Julia Neel

THE SELFRIDGES Group is owned by British-born Canadian billionaire W. Galen Weston, and his wife, Hilary, and holds in its portfolio four luxury department store groups: British chain Selfridges, Brown Thomas in Ireland, Holt Renfrew in Canada and De Bijenkorf in the Netherlands, as well as Ogilvy in Montreal. W. Galen is the grandson of George Weston, a Canadian baker who built Canada’s biggest bak- ery business. Upon his death, his son, W. Garfield Weston, took up the reins of George Weston Ltd. and began a program of expansion and acquisition. In the Thirties, during the Depression, Garfield secured funding to expand into the U.K. and was soon report- ing sales equal to the Canadian parent company. Within a few years, Garfield had acquired a string of British bakeries, trading under the Allied Bakeries banner, and he moved his family to England in 1935. Meanwhile, the U.S. operations were growing stron- ger. Garfield remained in Britain during World War II, even sitting as a member of Parliament for a time. W. Galen Weston was born in 1940 and moved with his parents back to Canada in 1945. He watched as his father’s business expanded globally, acquiring subsidiaries from Rhodesia to , and worked in many of them. In 1961, at the age of 21 and after studying business administration at the University of Western Ontario, W. Galen moved to Ireland and set up a grocery store, Powers, with his own money — his father had put him to work at a young age. In Ireland, W. Galen saw a major opportunity for growth and his instinct was right: by 1965, Powers had expanded into a six-store grocery chain. He went on to acquire a discount chain, Penneys, and a grocery competitor. He purchased an interest in department store Brown Thomas in 1971, eventually acquiring full ownership in 1984. He married Hilary Frayne, an Irish fashion model, in 1966 and together they have built the retail Weston empire. The Weston family controls about 200 compa- nies, including Canada’s largest supermarket chain, Loblaws, and President’s Choice brands, a variety of grocery and household products, and services, and the Joe Fresh contemporary fashion brand. Here’s a look at Selfridges Group’s other fashion retail properties.

BROWN THOMAS The original and first Brown Thomas store was opened on Grafton Street in by haberdashers and general drapers Hugh Brown and James Thomas Brown Thomas in Ireland. in 1859. The company was bought by Selfridges founder Harry Gordon Selfridge in 1919 and it op- erated as a branch of Selfridge Provincial Stores until 1933, when it was sold to John McGuire, who had made his name at Cerys — another Dublin de- De Bijenkorf in . partment store. The company was listed on the Irish Stock Exchange in the Sixties, Weston bought his first share in the company in 1971 and he bought it out in 1983. In 1991, the company bought out the Switzer Group, which included stores in , Galway, Limerick and Dublin. In 1994, Brown Thomas sold its original store to Marks & Spencer and took over what was the M&S store on Grafton Street. In 1998, the company opened the first BT2 bou- tique, which stocks contemporary and diffusion brands including COS, Etoile by Isabel Marant and Sandro. The shop became home to Ireland’s largest denim bar. There are now three BT2 stores in Dublin. By 2000, all of the previous Switzer Group stores were rebranded as Brown Thomas. Since 2005, all four of the stores have been refurbished and stock luxury and de- signer brands including women’s wear from Celine, Stella McCartney, Mary Katrantzou and Christian Louboutin, as well as men’s wear, beauty and home goods.

SELFRIDGES Situated on Oxford Street, the London megalith that is Selfridges was founded by Henry — Harry to his friends — Gordon Selfridge, son of a small-town storekeeper. He worked his way up through the ranks of Chicago retailer Marshall Field & Co., in- novating by lighting the store at night and opening a {Continued on page 28} CANADA GOOSE IS PROUD TO CONGRATULATE HOLT RENFREW ON THEIR 175th ANNIVERSARY.

PROUDLY MADE IN CANADA SINCE 1957

ASK ANYONE WHO KNOWS™ CANADA-GOOSE.COM 28 WWD TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2012

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WWDMILESTONES W. Galen Weston and his wife Hilary {Continued from page 26} with Elton John and David Furnish. restaurant where ladies could lunch unchaperoned. Selfridge is also credited with coining the phrase, “The customer is always right.” He came into a lot of money when he married into the Buckingham family and in 1906 he traveled to London with his wife, Rosalie. He was wholly un- impressed with the city’s shopping scene, so he in- vested 400,000 pounds (which is equivalent to $64 million, current U.S.) and built Selfridges at the less fashionable end of Oxford Street in 1909. Selfridge’s innovative approach to retailing saw him put planes and controversial tango dancers on display, making shopping entertaining. He was the first to establish a beauty department on the ground floor — cleverly masking the smell of manure from horse-drawn car- riages — and he opened a pet shop and what was at the time the world’s biggest bookshop. He ran the store until he retired in 1940, when he took on the role of president. He died in 1947 and on developing their existing stores. bels including Armani, Louis Vuitton, Burberry and four years later, the business was sold to Lewis’ of Galen Weston’s daughter, Alannah, was appoint- Hermès, as well as beauty, accessories, home goods, Liverpool for 3.4 million pounds (equal to about $153 ed creative director in 2004 and on her watch, the toys and home entertainment offerings. million, current U.S.). store opened what was at the time the world’s largest In November 2010, a deal announcing the purchase Selfridges changed hands again in 1965, when men’s and women’s shoe departments, and launched of Dutch department store chain De Bijenkorf was an- Charles Clore’s British Shoe Corp. won control in a take- the new Women’s Designer Galleries and a dedicat- nounced, marking the group’s first foray into mainland over for 63 million pounds ($1.77 billion, current U.S.). ed men’s designer space. She also presided over the Europe. At the time, the Selfridges Group said total Sears Holdings created a 94 million pound ($274 opening of Wonder Room, a nearly 20,000-square-foot turnover for Selfridges, Holt Renfrew, Brown Thomas million, current U.S.) redevelopment program for space selling luxury jewelry, watches and gifts, and and the new Dutch acquisition would be about 2 bil- Selfridges in 1992, which saw a dramatic revival Ultralounge, a permanent arts and exhibition space. lion pounds, or $3.2 billion at 2010 exchange rates. under the leadership of former chief executive of- In 2012, Selfridges was voted World’s Best The group also added that the Dutch acquisition ficer Vittorio Radice. Department Store at the Global Summit of Department was part of a strategy to own and operate premier Radice installed the atrium escalators and made the Stores for the second time and, in the year ended Jan. luxury stores in select markets. iconic yellow bags covetable items in their own right. 31, 2012, operating profits rose 5 percent with more In 1998, Selfridges was demerged from the Sears than 1 billion pounds ($1.6 billion) in sales. OGILVY Group and floated on the London Stock Exchange. Founded in 1866, the La Maison Ogilvy specialty Stores opened in Trafford Park, Manchester, in 1998, DE BIJENKORF store in Montreal houses distinctive boutiques, many followed by the Manchester Exchange Square store Like the Selfridges Group’s other holdings, De of the world’s top fashion designers, and upscale ac- in 2002. In 2003, the Birmingham store opened. Bijenkorf has a long history. It was founded by Simon cessories and sophisticated gifts. In 2011, Selfridges Shortly after the opening of the Birmingham Philip Goudsmit in 1870 and occupies a historic bought Ogilvy for around $100 million. Besides its store, Selfridges was acquired for 600 million pounds building on Dam Square in the heart of Amsterdam. fashion offerings, Ogilvy is known for its 60-year tra- ($966 million, current U.S.) by the Westons, who put Spread over five floors, the store — and its 11 dition of a bagpiper playing for visitors at the store a stop on expansion plans, choosing to focus instead other branches — stock Dutch and international la- every day at lunchtime. What does one get for a 175th birthday ?

We say the perfect out!t. IBI Group, proud partner in dressing up Holt Renfrew’s stores

IBI Group is a multi-disciplinary architecture, engineering, consulting and design !rm. Architecture | Interior Design | Urban Design | Urban Planning | Real Estate Development | Landscape Architecture | Intelligent Systems | ibigroup.com Proud partner delivering ‘s construction program. mhpm.com 30 WWD TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2012

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WWDMILESTONES Mixing Merch and Philanthropy Finding many ways to give back and create buzz. By David Moin

IT’S A TYPICAL morning meeting at choice, leading to a product sold Holt Renfrew’s Bloor Street flagship at a very attainable price,” before the doors swing open to shop- said Alexandra Weston, pers, and 150 sales associates are get- director of brand strat- ting the skinny on the early spring ar- egy for Holt Renfrew. “It rivals to the selling floor. builds a deeper relation- Akris, Celine, Marc Jacobs — ship with the vendor, and they’re all in, said store manager customers of all demograph- Jody Minuk. But the commercial ap- ics can have a piece of this.” peal turns charitable when she cited In August, Sir Elton John the zigzag-patterned Missoni bears and David Furnish appeared at and elephants that also just arrived. the Bloor Street flagship when They’re Christmas gifts, priced at $50, they launched limited-edition scent- to support OrphanAid Africa, which ed candles to benefit the Elton John helps orphans and vulnerable chil- AIDS Foundation. dren in Ghana. In April, Holt and Tory Burch “When you are thinking about ev- partnered on $50 totes to benefit erything you are selling, these should the FEED Foundation, cofounded be natural add-ons,” Minuk stressed. by Lauren Bush Lauren to combat Then she introduced Margherita child hunger, and the Tory Burch Missoni, heiress to the Missoni fashion Foundation, which provides econom- house founded by her grandparents, ic opportunities to women and their who thanked the Holt team for sup- families in the U.S. Alexandra porting OrphanAid Africa, the cause Last fall, Holt sold exclusive Marc Weston she has embraced for the past decade, by Marc Jacobs nylon shoulder- since she was 20 and spent a month in strap totes, priced at $48, to support Ghana witnessing firsthand the suffer- VisionSpring, a charity providing ing of the children. low-cost eyeglasses in the developing At her public appearance in the world. Canada Goose once designed store later to launch the products and merino wool, fleeced-lined toques to sign autographs, Missoni praised the support Polar Bears International, and “extremely professional” in-store and Michael Michael Kors created leopard- social-media campaign Holt has creat- print scarves to support the Canadian ed to promote the elephants and bears, Breast Cancer Foundation.

company for Holt, Selfridges in the U.K. and Brown Thomas in Ireland. Alexandra Weston works directly with Holt’s president, Mark Derbyshire. Holt’s cause-related designer exclusives. “My job encompasses looking at the business, determining where there are For spring, three pop-up shops will gaps and holes and where we see op- be created, about 250 to 300 square portunities,” Weston explained. feet each, as “a teaser to get this con- Supporting charities and bringing cept out to the market” and a prelude social issues to the fore is “a big part to permanent 450-square-foot shops at of what I am focusing on and what we Holt’s flagships in Toronto, Montreal, believe in as a brand. We are all about Vancouver and Calgary. making customers and employees feel “They won’t always be about chari- great. I saw there was an opportunity ties,” Weston said. “They could high- to expand upon that element and re- light a culture or a craft, artisans,” Margherita Missoni meets her ally reach out, and to enhance our from anywhere around the world. “We fans at the Bloor Street flagship. corporate reputation at the same time. are having a great time scouring the

PORTRAIT PHOTOS OF MISSONI AND WESTON BY GEORGE PIMENTEL/HOLT RENFREW GEORGE PIMENTEL/HOLT PHOTOS OF MISSONI AND WESTON BY PORTRAIT It’s become more and more important globe for the coolest, most fashion- to the next generation of customers, able products.” employees and vendors. We are work- As a precursor to the shops, Holt which she described as “trans-genera- “We’ve always had a lot of great ini- ing on building programs for amazing has begun selling in its holiday shops tional gifts, for any age.” tiatives going on,” Weston said. “We’ve causes. There are a lot other things Cornelia Guest handbags made from This is just the latest chapter in always supported United Way. But coming down the pipeline,” and not too recycled fabrics that resemble leather. Holt’s ongoing, two-year-old program when I came on board over a year ago, far in the future. The working name for the concept of offering $50 exclusives created by I really saw a need to create a consis- Without going into great detail, is “The Green Room” to evoke ecol- top designers to support charities of tent, concise platform, for all the stores Weston did tip her hand on a project ogy, and for where actors stay before their choice. Holt donates $100,000 to and for the [brand] messaging to stand happening for next spring. It revolves they’re about to appear on stage or the charities and only keeps enough of on. It was a little bit here and there.” around an in-store-shop concept fea- live TV shows. Events and exhibits are the revenues to cover costs. Holt now has “a streamlined strat- turing a “well-curated assortment of seen happening in Holt’s Green Room. The products are multipurpose — egy that feeds into the ethos of the exceptional products,” exceptional in “The Green Room will allow us to they are used as tools to raise funds brand,” Weston said. “It came about by the way they are manufactured, she ex- speak to a new generation of consum- and bring designers and celebrities listening to what our employees, our plained — through artisans, or by uti- ers who want to know where product is into the store to spotlight charities and customers and our vendors care about. lizing materials that are renewable or from, and who care about who makes draw crowds, as well as to enable shop- It sounds cheesy, but we’ve become one organic. The shop will change constant- it,” Weston said. “For this genera- pers to buy something exclusive and big happy family.” ly, and Weston believes it will represent tion, it’s expected. It’s something that feel good knowing that they’re helping Weston is the wife of Galen Weston, “a new and fresh way to look at retail” should always be front and center. For to support a cause. who runs Loblaws and is the son with a concept that’s “simple, young, the older demographic, it may not be With designers, “We form a collabo- of W. Galen Weston, chairman of chic and gallerylike, highlighting prod- second nature, but it’s something they ration to highlight a charity of their Selfridges Group Ltd., the holding ucts and the stories behind them.” are embracing.”

TRUE RELIGION CONGRATULATES HOLT RENFREW ON 175 YEARS OF INNOVATIVE FASHION.