& ARCHITECTURAL & ARCHAEOLOGICAL SOCIETY

NEWSLETTER 209 August 2018

Recognise this St Albans railway bridge? If not, see page 24 for the answer. (Reproduced courtesy of Herefordshire Archive & Records Centre)

Included in this issue:

Finding a Papal Bull Discovering Concealed Shoes Annual General Meeting Alban City School Project City Station’s 150th birthday Society’s Summer Social New Museum + Gallery Archaeology Conference www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 2

CONTENTS President’s Message 3 Annual General Meeting 5 The New Museum + Gallery 6 Group Reports Treasurer 7 Clock Tower 9 17th Century Group 10 Newsletter 11 Herts Archaeology & History 11 Programme Development Committee 12 Publications Committee 12 Library 13 Library Material Frederick Walter Kinneir Tarte, Architect 15 An Introduction to the SAHAAS Deeds Collection 17 Library Notes 18 The Concealed Revealed Project 21 Papal Bull Found in Abbey’s Collection 22 Clock Tower Curios 23 Where is that Bridge? 24 Recent Planning Reports 26 Congratulations 28 The Alban City School Project 29 Summer Social: Dinner at the Vintry 30 An Evening in Codicote 31 Society Excursion to Colchester 32 Lecture Programme, 34 The Third ‘Archaeology in Hertfordshire’ Conference 39 Have you a minute? Do you enjoy tracing family history? The Home Front Project collected a large amount of information about the city's residents at that time. Rather than lose all that information, we have formed the Biographies Project with the aim of better recording it. We are entering our information on templates which will be accessible online and in the library. At present the information is in files of notes which need to be transcribed. There is no need to do any additional research unless you want to, just help transcribe what we have. Of course, there would be no objection to anyone's adding to what we already have! If you can help us, or want further information, please email me (Anne Wares) at [email protected].

The Society is a Registered Charity, No. 226912. Whilst every care has been taken in the preparation of this newsletter, the publishers cannot be held responsible for the accuracy of the information herein or any consequence arising from it. www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 3

PRESIDENT’S MESSAGE generosity of the Land Rover Experi- ence at Luton Hoo Our Society heads for the 2018/19 (and our luck in season in rude health. None of it having Frank Iddiols would be possible without the hard as the link). work of so many people, both on the Council and among the wider mem- Our first direct con- bership. We are very lucky. tribution to exhibitions at the new Museum was led by Sue Mann. We Over the summer we enjoyed the produced the panels describing treat- sell-out summer social at the Côte ment of the homeless in the town Brasserie, otherwise no. 3 High Street. through history to complement the Between Liz Rolfe and Past President ‘Squatlife’ exhibition of photos from Kate Morris we learned about the the 1980s. Wearing another hat, I history of this important house and its represent one of the largest council Vintry Garden as well as the ‘enchant- estates in St Albans. Its residents have ing mews courtyard’ as described by been hugely enthusiastic about this Chris Wares in his article (see p. 30). I exhibition. Many of them have visited, hope this might be a model for future they have seen that the new museum summer social events to complement is for them and illuminates their own our New Year Party. experience. There are useful lessons here for our own Society. There was also the excellent walk round the historic centre of Codicote So what’s coming up? This newsletter as guests of the Codicote Local History and the new membership card unveil Society. Again my thanks to Pat Howe another brilliant lecture programme for organising this. developed by Dave and Gill Girdziusz.

The library has been enhanced by Pat Broad and others are progressing significant new acquisitions master- a publication on the architectural minded by Donald Munro and also by legacy of Percival Blow who did much a stock of new chairs thanks to the to shape the look of St Albans and www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 4

Harpenden. Christopher Blow, his away-days this year. As a result there architect grandson, is helping us with are various pieces of work in progress material and providing his own and also some opportunities where insights into his grandfather’s work. we need volunteers to step forward. There’s more to do on our mission, Professor James Clark will be writing vision and values as well as mapping up his fizzing lecture delivered last out the different bodies with which year on ‘The People of St Albans and we interact and how we add value. Their Abbey’ for our Herts Archaeol- ogy and History journal. Members will At the recent Hertfordshire Archaeol- be able to purchase this at the usual ogy Conference held in Bishop’s Stort- big discount to the official price. ford, someone observed that some of the most significant new discoveries Work is also well underway on a new are currently sitting on museum website thanks to the hard work of a shelves waiting to be identified and team led by Peter Bourton. This must reported. I’m not sure we can offer become a shining window to the that but we do have four important outside world, linking into social archaeological reports on past work media platforms too. carried out by Society members just waiting to be written up. Volunteers The Society offers such tremendous please! Roger Miles will be writing up value – the newsletter, the library, the a job spec. lectures and seminars, the trips, the help and advice on research, meeting Finally congratulations to Margaret similarly minded people, the opportu- Kent, one of our longest standing nity to be published. Our membership members, on the occasion of her may be healthy but I still keep meeting 100th birthday. people who have never heard of us. So frustrating! I look forward to seeing many of you at the AGM and opening lecture on 11 To give ourselves time to think September. through matters such as promoting the Society, your Council held two Sandy Walkington www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 5

ANNUAL GENERAL MEETING

Notice is hereby given that the Annual General Meeting of St Albans and Hertfordshire Architectural and Archaeological Society will be held at Marlborough Road Methodist Church on Tuesday 11 September 2018 at 7.30pm for the following purposes Agenda

1) Apologies for absence

2) President's comments

3) To adopt the minutes of the AGM held on 12 September 2017 (enc. with the November 2017 Newsletter)

4) To receive the accounts for the year ended 31 May 2018 (enc. with the August Newsletter)

5) To receive reports from our various Groups (inc. with the August Newsletter)

6) To elect the following members to serve on Council (with their responsi- bilities) until the next AGM:

Peter Burley Vice President Bryan Hanlon Secretary David Moore Treasurer Pat Broad Publications Officer John Cox Publicity Officer David Girdziusz Chairman, Programme Development Committee Gill Girdziusz Lecture Secretary Pat Howe 17th Century Research Group Caroline Howkins Clock Tower Frank Iddiols Technical Christine McDermott ‘Hertfordshire Archaeology and History’ journal www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 6

Jon Mein Newsletter Editor and Webmaster Roger Miles Archaeology Group Donald Munro Library Sally Pearson Minutes Secretary David Smith Membership Secretary

7) To confirm the election of Chris Hall as Independent Examiner of the accounts.

The AGM will be followed by a lecture given by Kate Harwood:

‘Repton and the Regency Park and Garden in Hertfordshire’

THE NEW MUSEUM + GALLERY

How wonderful to see the Old Town Hall open as our new museum and gallery! Commanding such a central position at the head of St Peter’s Street, it is Georgian elegance restored, but so much more – a showcase for all aspects of St Albans life, a skilful mixture of old and new. There is much to see - the timeline, the old courtroom and the cells, new views from the side galleries, the displays of art in the assembly room but for me, the most interesting was the excellently researched and presented gallery of the history of printing in St Albans, which I hope will be the first of many specialist exhibitions about the city. Congratulations to the City Council, the Museums and Galleries Trust, the museum team and the University of Hertfordshire who have worked so hard to bring this project to fruition and grateful thanks to the Heritage Lottery Fund and all those who contributed so generously locally to make it all possible. The official opening evening reception on 6 June was for key contributors, of which SAHAAS was one. Tickets were very limited and I am grateful to the Society’s Council for allowing me to go to this exciting evening. I felt that I represented all our members who gave their time, energy and money to our fundraising. Helen Bishop www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 7

TREASURER’S REPORT Enclosed with this newsletter are the accounts for the financial year ended 31 May 2018 which were signed by the independent examiner on 23 July 2018 and were approved by Council on 27 July 2018. As in previous years the accounts are presented in the format required by the Charity Commission’s Accounting and Reporting by Charities - Statement of Recommended Practice (SORP2005). They also contain a report from an independent examiner even though the Charity Commission does not require such a report for Charities with income below £25,000. I am more comfortable, however, to present to you accounts which have been subject to independent examination.

The results for the year are split between the restricted and unrestricted funds.

Restricted Funds: There was no activity here and the Mayor’s Prize was not awarded this year.

Unrestricted Funds: Income: � Membership Subscriptions received at £6,716 and remain the main source of income for the Society. � Income from the Clock Tower opening was £4,500, an increase of £500 on the previous year. � Gift Aid for the financial year 2016–2017 amounting to £1,439 was received. A claim for 2017–2018 has been submitted and this will be shown in next year’s, 2018–2019, accounts. � Other smaller amounts include £350 from talks given by the Home Front Group and £438 from University of Hertfordshire Press being royalties on sales of the Home Front book. � A generous donation of £1,000 was received from a member for the benefit of the Society to be spent at the discretion of Council. � Fund raising activity was centred on raising funds for the Museums and Galler- ies Trust with a quiz night being held in June 2017, which raised £2,001 this being donated to the Trust. No donations were made from the Society’s funds. Expenditure: Running/Admin costs were generally in line with expectations, the increase in Post & Telephone reflects a decision to purchase a stock of second class stamps before the price increase. www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 8

The key areas of expenditure are: the Lecture programme, Newsletter, Library and Publications: � Lecture costs have been well controlled. The move to a different venue and the continued use of high quality speakers hasn’t materially increased the costs. � The Newsletter costs have increased by £394 reflecting the rise in paper and printing costs. � The Library as anticipated in last year’s report shows a significant increase due to the purchase of a new cataloguing software package at £1,915 plus an annual licence fee of £1,195. £2,000 was set aside in 2016–2017 accounts for the software with the licence fee taken from this year’s income. � Publications, the Old Town Hall book was published at a cost of £3,200. Again funds, £4,000, were set aside in the 2016–2017 accounts in anticipation of this. The Publication Account which forms part of the annual accounts reflects this. Balance Sheet: The activities of the Society generated a surplus of £3,295 including the donation of £1,000 and helped by projects, Library software upgrade and Old Town Hall publication coming in under budget. Funds available to the Society now stand at some £19,840, net £7,840, after allowing for a reserve of £12,000. The major project on the stocks at the moment is the new web site for which a figure of £5,000 has been earmarked. There are two publication projects currently being undertaken, which if they come to fruition will incur expenditure of £1,200+/-. Overall this financial year has been satisfactory due in no small part to good ‘house- keeping’ and management of costs. It is anticipated that the increase in the annual subscription agreed at the last AGM will improve income for the coming year(s) with a knock-on effect on the Gift Aid amount. It has to be borne in mind that the contribution from the Clock Tower is an unknown quantity and whilst good over the last year or so, £4,500 in 2018 and £4,000 in 2017, it cannot be assumed that it will always be at this level or better. Regrettably I am unable to attend the AGM. May I suggest that if any one has a question regarding the accounts they can e-mail me ([email protected]) by 28 August and I will endeavour to provide a reply to be given on the night and, if appropriate, included in the next Newsletter. Similarly, I will respond to any matters raised at the AGM by e-mail direct to the enquirer; please leave an e-mail address with the Secretary, Bryan Hanlon. David Moore Hon. Treasurer www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 9

CLOCK TOWER REPORT

Visitors have been paying to climb the 93 steps of the Clock Tower to enjoy the magnificent views since 1914. The Arc & Arc took over the tenancy of the building from 25 March that year and sublet the ground The Clock Tower c.1915 showing the Arc & Arc’s signboards on the near corner (Caroline Howkins) floor to Mr Richardson who, along with running a stationery shop there, also acted as the custodian on Sunday 15 July due to the World and collected the 2d entrance fee. Cup, but luckily (Editor: surely Although only 76 visitors were ‘unluckily’?) England didn’t make it recorded in the first week, numbers to the finals so Mike eventually did pick up. He stated at the ‘Hert- found a volunteer to accompany him fordshire Archaeological Society’ for the 3pm session. The greatest [sic] Annual Meeting that the total effect on numbers will be missing number of visitors for 1914 was the last three weekends of the 6,780 but “the war caused the season in September as the Clock expected numbers to drop during Tower will have to close for repairs. August and September.” We will, however, be open for the Although we don’t have the excuse first weekend of Heritage Open Days of the outbreak of the First World (HOD), from Thursday 6 to Sunday 9 War for the expected drop in visitor September. As part of national HOD numbers for this year we do have celebrations of ‘Extraordinary other events to take account of. Women’ we will be putting on a Both the Royal Wedding in May and display about the local Suffragette the opening of the St Albans heroine, Constance Lytton, asking Museum + Gallery in June had the “Who was your local heroine?” In effect of lowering our numbers. We keeping with the idea of HODs to almost didn’t open for the last slot open buildings to the public that are www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 10

not normally accessible, we will like to thank all the Clockateers for unlock the third floor Dial Room on giving their time to keep the Clock the Thursday from 1.30pm until Tower open for the public to enjoy. closing at 5pm. We will also again be taking part in the exciting ‘Three Caroline Howkins & Mike Carey Towers Challenge’ on the Sunday along with St Peter’s Church and the 17TH CENTURY RESEARCH Cathedral. GROUP REPORT Hopefully now, all our Clockateers In recent years the Group has have had a chance to look at and use focused on transcribing early 17th the new online rota system for century probate documents from signing up for sessions. Mike has the St Albans area. We are pleased managed to get it up and running to say that transcriptions for the this season and, so far, it appears to 1600-15 period will be published by be working very well. But if you have the Hertfordshire Record Society any comments do email us via at (HRS) later this year. [email protected]. Since sending the transcriptions to As always, we are looking for new the editors last year, our task has volunteers to join the roster of Clock- been to write an introduction to the ateers. Manning the Clock Tower for volume. This would analyse the one of the sessions over Saturday or information contained in the docu- Sunday with another Clockateer is a ments and place it in its historical fun and interesting way to meet new setting, with reference to other rel- people and talk to the diverse range evant publications. We submitted of tourists who visit our city. If you our first draft in March 2018. would like to volunteer, please do Heather Falvey, one of our editors, contact us at the above email responded favourably and gave us address. ideas for additions and improve- ments. With my co-author, Jane We are open every weekend and Harris, we tackled Heather’s sugges- bank holiday until mid-September, tions realising that these would depending on the scheduling of create a work of academic interest repairs. As always, Mike and I would to historians in this field of study. www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 11

This has now been finalised, illustrations something we are not sure will abate chosen and the design of the cover any time soon. So, we are grateful to the agreed. The launch will be announced several Society members who volun- on the SAHAAS website and by enews teered to hand-deliver newsletters in due course. when Maggy and Roderick Douglas step down shortly. We are currently consid- Meanwhile transcribing documents cov- ering ways of managing the print costs ering the period 1616-30 has continued and will report back about this in due and I should like to acknowledge the course. sterling work by David Lasky who turns out transcriptions faster than we can Copy deadline for the November 2018 process them. edition is Monday 15 October. If you wish to submit material or have any We are proposing to continue our work comments to make, please email me at and this will constitute a second [email protected]. volume. I understand from the HRS that this cannot be fitted in to the current Jon Mein schedule but we do hope to eventually go up to at least 1649. HERTS ARCHAEOLOGY & HISTORY REPORT Pat Howe Copies of volume 17 of our journal are NEWSLETTER REPORT still selling to individuals and institu- tions. Any new members who might be I took over as editor of the newsletter interested in buying a copy at the mem- from the May edition with John Hum- bers' price of £5 (usually £20) are phreys continuing to provide DTP sup- advised to contact me via port. While I don’t anticipate any [email protected]. You can change to the format, I do wish to find details of the contents on our web- include more research content. site. Early preparations are underway Members will hopefully notice some towards the publication of volume 18, changes in this regard already. One which is expected in 2019. challenge we faced this year was the steep rise in print and distribution costs, Christine McDermott

The ‘Squatlife’ Exhibition at the Museum + Gallery including material provided by the Society ends Sunday 26 August 2018. www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 12

PROGRAMME DEVELOPMENT Roderick will be stepping down this year as he is moving out of the area. COMMITTEE REPORT We thank him for his valuable contri- bution over the years. His reliability Following the retirement of Roy and and expertise will be greatly missed. Doreen Bratby this committee now consists of Dave Girdziusz, Gill Girdzi- Attendance figures for the lectures usz, Pat Howe and Tony Berk. have been buoyant since our move to the church. The suggestions for lecture Gill was responsible for twenty-four topics, possible speakers and potential lectures: sixteen on Tuesdays and eight visits are always welcome and help us on Fridays. Three different venues enormously with putting the pro- were used for lectures in 2017/18 but gramme together for the future. all lectures for the coming year will be at Marlborough Road Methodist Please do contact us by emailing Church. [email protected].

Three of the best attended lectures Dave Girdziusz were ‘Verulamium Revealed’ by our member Kris Lockyear, ‘The People of PUBLICATIONS COMMITTEE St Albans and their Abbey’ by Professor REPORT James Clark and ‘History & Architec- ture of 18th Century Gorhambury’ by Viscountess Grimston. Our most notable achievement in 2017-18 was the much-delayed publi- Pat and Tony arranged three very suc- cation of The Old Town Hall, St Albans. cessful visits. These were to the Samuel Released in September 2017 with a Pepys Library in Cambridge on 25 launch at Waterstones, sales reached October 2017 followed by Colchester 397 copies by June 2018. Over 90 on 1 May and Codicote on 5 July. members bought copies; thank you for your support. As usual Roderick Douglas and Frank Iddiols provided excellent service with We sold 18 copies of other publications the IT/AV used at lectures. The team and total revenue from all publications has now been expanded with the addi- (excluding our Herts Archaeology & tion of John Ridge who kindly volun- History journal) amounted to £1,539. teered to assist. Unfortunately www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 13

Other achievements included a draft the main areas of progress have publishing strategy which has had been: positive feedback from Council. We played a full part in the website The implementation of the Soutron project and are planning to revamp On-Line Public Access Catalogue, the publication section for the new enabling members and the world in website. Work on publishing stand- general to see our book and pam- ards progressed with the production phlet holdings - a real step forward. of house style guides for print and Although cataloguing training has web. The committee has also been been variously interrupted, it is now exploring ideas for new publications progressing well and we expect to which we hope to develop in the have five cataloguers operational coming year. very soon. We are now tackling an extensive backlog, and the work is At the start of the year, the commit- spread by cataloguers taking tee comprised Patricia Broad, John batches for cataloguing on-line at Cox, Ann Dean, Sue Mann, Christine home. McDermott and Roger Miles. Roger stepped down in March 2018 and Library Volunteers. The appeal for Jon Mein joined in May, taking over Volunteers has been very successful. from John Humphreys who with- In addition to those mentioned in drew from the committee in 2017. previous issues, the Library Team We met three times and held one has been very effectively reinforced email meeting. recently by Ros Trent, Philippa Hurst, Terry Price and Lin Watson, Patricia Broad who are weighing in with admirably focused enthusiasm. LIBRARY REPORT Computer hardware. In a major It has been a productive year for the development our computer prob- Library on a number of fronts, with lems have been greatly relieved by staff as busy as ever making inroads the generosity of Christine Dunn in into the growing mountains of mate- response to my note flagging up our rials coming our way. The develop- difficulties in the last Newsletter. As ments have by and large been a result we have been able to covered in previous Newsletters but replace the computer that was vir- www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 14

tually at a halt with a high-spec Beardsmore final instalment. The machine tailored to our needs built portfolio case of estate agent partic- by Malcolm Merrick. We can look to ulars relating to properties in St upgrading its companion. It also gives Albans and area was collected from us the opportunity to consider alter- the Cathedral library in May. native ways of local networking (the public Wi-Fi connection at Sandridge Furniture. The somewhat vexed Gate being intermittent), and also to question of suitable and uniform look at image collection manage- seating for the Library, Council meet- ment software in order to optimise ings and Seminars has been resolved the arrangement of our extensive by the eagle-eyed Frank Iddiols spot- digital images collections. We really ting a suitable batch of used but are most grateful to Chris for her comfortable office chairs. Posteriors splendid gift-aided generosity, which will now be uniformly pampered, could hardly have come at a more though some may regret the chron- opportune time. ologically reduced range of seden- tary experience. Large monitor screens. Caroline Howkins has very generously given The progress over the past year is as us two large TV / computer screens. ever down to the enthusiasm and One is particularly big and will be hard work of our splendid and excellent for viewing maps etc. The happily augmented band of Library second will replace the monitor for volunteers. Particular thanks are due the main Library PC. to Jon Mein, Tony Cooper and Frank Iddiols for being such Library stal- Research materials. John G.E. Cox warts; to Malcolm Merrick for his has gifted us files and folders from help and advice on scanning, compu- his personal collections of local mate- ter hardware and equipment; to Di rials which he is happy for us to Dunn and Susan Smith for their work distribute into our various special on the paper files; to Sue Bellamy for subject files, etc. There is much fugi- her listing work on deeds, now virtu- tive material amongst this and we ally complete; Diana Penton for her are very pleased to have it. indexing work on the Kinneir Tarte papers; to Sally Pearson for all her www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 15

efforts in organising disposals of built in 1965. When Tony Cooper surplus stock which have raised kindly supplied details of a fine several hundred pounds; to the cat- house built in 1900/01 designed by alogue trainees (especially Caroline Kinneir Tarte, I was hooked! I joined Howkins for her ‘magic’ minute tak- the Society and found myself com- ing); and to Sheila Green, John Cox, piling a handlist from three full box- David Lasky and all others who have files of evidence gathered in the helped from time to time. Thanks to 1980/90s by past-president John the efforts of all these folks we have Brodrick. settled very successfully at San- dridge Gate, where we have an In 1999 John contributed an article overall visitor rate little different about Tarte, ‘A Man of Two Worlds’, from what it was in the Old Town to the Society’s publication A History Hall. In All Men’s Lives. He also gave a lecture to the Society in 1996, Donald Munro reprised in 2013. Working through his meticulous research revealed Kinneir Tarte as a most engaging FREDERICK WALTER KINNEIR man, warm, energetic, versatile, sociable and public spirited. He TARTE, ARCHITECT came to St Albans as a young archi- We have recently published a hand tect in 1886 and, as well as designing list of the contents of the Library’s numerous buildings, plunged into collection of material about this local life in the city becoming a councillor, architect on our website. Here Diana joining many societies, including Penton, who produced the handlist ours. By 1907 he had reached a peak introduces this intriguing man. in his standing in local society, pro- fessional and public life. My interest in this fascinating story arose from enquiries to the SAHAAS Then suddenly, at the height of his Library about the site of The Dell in career, aged 50, astonishingly, he Sandpit Lane. As a resident for over abandoned it all and emigrated to 20 years I had often wondered what Australia to become a farmer, later preceded the present block of flats promoting the benefits of Milch www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 16

Goats. The reasons for his departure are obscure, but he tackled his new life with courage and energy.

Reading his diary of the long journey to Australia was a delight. No com- plaints or gloom but a cheerful, observant and witty account of daily life on board, Sketch by F.G. Kitton of a house designed by Tarte (SAHAAS) although his descrip- tion of the streets of Melbourne, St Peter’s Street in St Albans’ was which he thought magnificent, as especially poignant. ‘finer than any in England, except for Diana Penton

IMPORTANT CHANGES TO THE SOCIETY LECTURE PROGRAMME Two significant changes will affect the Society’s lecture programme from the start of the 2018/19 season in September. 1. All lectures will be on Tuesdays; we find Tuesday night talks attract a higher attendance than Fridays. 2. The venue for all lectures will be Marlborough Road Methodist Church, our current Tuesday night venue, so we will no longer be using the St Albans School lecture room. No venue is perfect but the church provides easier access for members with mobility issues and is more flexible when there is a big attraction in terms of topic or speaker. It will also lessen the possibility of lectures being moved at short notice. Some people will be sad to lose the link with the school but we feel on balance this is the right decision. www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 17

second half of the 16th century to the AN INTRODUCTION TO THE late 19th. Most of this material was SAHAAS DEEDS COLLECTION sent to what is now Hertfordshire Archives and Local Studies, but a small Since the 1970s, the Society has proportion concerning the ancient received various property deeds and borough of St Albans and a number of legal papers relating to St Albans from legal papers from local solicitors’ firms both individuals and firms of solici- were retained and are now housed in tors. This collection received a consid- the Society’s Library. erable boost in 1983, around which time members became alarmed at the Overall these documents represent an wanton destruction of a number of important collection for those study- historic documents which occurred ing the history of the city from the when a local firm needed more 16th century onwards. However, until storage space. The Society appealed recently, only a part of this collection to business organisations likely to hold had been listed, notably the docu- such material to donate it to the ments relating to the ancient Borough Society for research purposes. The of St Albans calendared by the late generous response resulted in the David Dean, a past president of the collection of 44 boxes of deeds and Society. In particular, there remained other documents numbering some a large number of previously uncata- 1500 - 2000 items dating from the logued legal papers awaiting atten-

Plan of premises on south side of Fishpool Street, 1877 (SAHAAS Deeds Collection ref. SDC/1/140) www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 18 tion. These have been listed over the "Hertfordshire Almanac Advertiser last year or so and comprise deeds, 1881" being 63p of trade adverts particulars of sales and correspond- bound at end. ence about properties in the city including those in the areas around A Week at Welwyn, by William Cham- Dagnall Street, London Road and Cath- bers. Second edition, with additions. erine Street. London: W. & R. Chambers, 1876. 92 p.; map; 17cm. The notable Scottish With the cataloguing of these docu- publisher and lexicographer’s account ments, the whole collection has been of touring around Welwyn and Hert- fully listed for the first time. This fordshire in the earlier 1870s. catalogue is now available via the Library page on the Society’s website. South Mimms, by Revd Frederick It is anticipated that this data will be Charles Cass. Westminster: printed transferred to the online library cata- by Nichols and Sons, 1877. 128p.; ills., logue in due course. geneal. tables; 30cm. 4to. One of three scholarly parish histories by If you have any questions concerning Cass, printed by Nichols for the this collection please email us: London & Middlesex Archaeological [email protected]. Society. The others, also in our Beardsmore acquisitions, are for East Susan Bellamy Barnet (1880) and Monken Hadley, [Barnet] (1885-92). LIBRARY NOTES The Garden City. A study in the devel- Beardsmore Collection materials opment of a modern town ..., by C.B. Here is a further selection of some of Purdom. With 4 coloured pictures by the more interesting items recently T. Friedensen and 140 other illustra- catalogued. tions. London: J. M. Dent & Sons, 1913. xii, 329 p. A near-contemporary The Hertfordshire almanac and county account of the development of the handbook for the year ... 1881. Hert- first Garden City at . This ford: Stephen Austin & Sons, 1881. iv, is one of several interesting items in a 143,[i],63p.; ill.; 19 cm. A mine of wealth of Beardsmore Collection information about Hertfordshire and materials on the early development its institutions, listing office holders, of Garden Cities and New Towns in addresses, etc. Contents include the Hertfordshire. www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 19

Hesketh Prichard, D.S.O., M.C.: hunter: Stotfold to house the ‘pauper lunatics’ explorer: naturalist: cricketer: author: of Hertfordshire, Bedfordshire and soldier: a memoir, by Eric Parker. Huntingdonshire. A detailed account is London: T. Fisher Unwin, [1924]. ix, given of the buildings, changes in treat- 271 p., [8] leaves of plates : ill., ports. ments and care of patients, and of the ; 23 cm. Prichard (1876-1922) married staff who looked after them. It became Lady Elizabeth Grimston in 1909, lived known as Fairfield Hospital before it at Prae Wood, died at Gorhambury and closed because of the end of institu- was buried at St Michael's Church, St tional care. Albans. The copy has various tipped- and pasted-in pieces, 1918 to 1970, Cassiobury: the ancient seat of the relating to Grimston and Hesketh-Pri- Earls of Essex, by Paul Rabbitts and chard family members; including a MS. Sarah Kerenza Priestley. Stroud: letter from Prichard to Sybil Grimston, Amberley Publishing, 2017. 159pp, Oct. 1918. illus, bibliog. Cassiobury Park is the largest in Hertfordshire, reputedly Donald Munro given to St Albans Abbey in 793 by King Offa of . The history of the New Library acquisitions estate, house (once described as a This ancient road: London to Holyhead; palace) and the owners is related, with a journey through time, by Andrew copious illustrations. Sadly it has no Hudson. Burgess Hill: Red Door, 2017. index. 217pp, illus. map, index. The London to Holyhead road largely follows the Recent journal articles Roman road, Watling Street, and now In: London Colney History Society the A5, through Hertfordshire and St Newsletter, no.34, Spring /Summer Albans. Its history, changes, events and 2018 travellers along its length are noted. pp 7-8 “Who lived at Cotlands and when? Part 1”, by Colin Chapman. A place in the country; Three Counties Cotlands, later called Cotlandswick, Asylum 1860-1999, by Judith Petti- seems to have been built about 1898. grew, Rory W. Reynolds and Sandra Among the families living there in Rouse. Hatfield: Hertfordshire Publica- subsequent years were the brewing tions, 2017. 120pp, illus, notes, index. Adeys. The house became a prisoner The Asylum was founded in 1850 near of war work camp in WW1. www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 20

In: The Alban Link, Spring 2018, no.88 In: Historical Review, pp 8-9 “Charles Wilton, picture frame no.15, June 2018 maker, carver, gilder and artist, 1843- “West Hertfordshire: in the steps of 1911”, by Hazel Gowland. A brief Herbert Tompkins. Part 3: to account of the life and business of Cassiobridge”, by Brian Thomson. The Charles Wilton. One of his clients was main feature of the article is Sir Lord Grimthorpe, of whom his opinion Hubert Herkomer’s home and his was low. A member of SAHAAS, school in Bushey, which operated Wilton wrote and published a pam- from 1883 until 1904. From 1905 it phlet on early maps of St Albans, was run by Lucy Kemp-Welch as including Benjamin Hare’s map of Bushey School of Painting. 1634. Further research on his life is under way. Tony Cooper

ST ALBANS & DISTRICT LOCAL HERTFORDSHIRE ASSOCIATION HISTORY NETWORK AUTUMN OF LOCAL HISTORY SYMPOSIUM CONFERENCE Date: Saturday 10 November Date: Saturday 20 October Venue: Lemsford Village Hall Venue: Verulamium Museum This year’s theme is ‘planned settle- Presentations include Pope Adrian ments’. Talks will include Roman IV, watercress, the other side of Verulamium, Saxon and medieval boundary walls, Cathedral Stories, towns, 18th century St Albans and local inspirations for a Dutch artist, , Victorian , the Char- the new Museum + Gallery, and a tist settlement at Heronsgate and Harperbury patient’s story. Letchworth Garden City.

Bookings opened on 29 July so, by Tickets will be £12 for members, £15 the time you read this, tickets may otherwise. all have been snapped up. To check please email the organisers via More information will follow via [email protected]. enews and the website or keep an eye on www.halh.org.uk. www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 21

THE CONCEALED REVEALED these objects were apotropaic (evil- averting) devices. PROJECT Following her interesting talk at the The question remains though: why Herts Association for Local History would an old shoe, a wooden poppet, spring event in May, we invited Dr Houl- and a dried cat be considered effective brook to provide this introduction to her supernatural safeguards? Concealed project. deposits range from the mundane to the distasteful, but they certainly don’t What do an old shoe, a wooden poppet, seem inherently magical. And yet and a dried cat have in common? They people went to the trouble of bricking are all objects that have been found them up in walls, secreting them up hidden away within the fabric of build- chimneybreasts, or laying them beneath ings. In fact, a vast variety of items has hearthstones. They must have invested been found under floorboards, thresh- them with some significance. But why? olds, and hearthstones; within walls; up And how can we distinguish between chimneybreasts; above ceilings and roof protective, accidental, non-ritual, or beams; and in thatching. People usually even sentimental concealments (e.g. find them today when they’re renovat- time capsules)? ing their homes, and the objects are in such odd places that most of them can’t Together with Owen Davies I have been have ended up there accidentally. They asking these questions, and pinning must have been deliberately secreted finds of hidden objects onto a map, away by past occupants or builders freely available to view here: many years ago. www.historypin.org/en/person/66740. We are asking that anyone who has But why? Practically nothing was found a hidden object, or knows a story written at the time about this custom, about one, to please contact us. We so we have no sources explaining why would be very happy to hear from you. such objects were concealed and what their concealers were hoping to achieve. More information can be found on the This hasn’t stopped people from propos- project website: ing theories, the most popular being theconcealedrevealed.wordpress.com. that these items were hidden to protect both house and occupants from malev- Dr Ceri Houlbrook olent forces. According to this theory, University of Hertfordshire Email: [email protected] www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 22

PAPAL BULL FOUND IN ABBEY’S resolve the problem the cardinals held a council in Pisa in 1409 and they COLLECTION elected Pope Alexander V and then, when he soon died, John XXIII but that According to the Society’s minutes a simply resulted in three popes as the papal bull of ‘Pope John 26th' was others both continued. At a further exhibited at the meeting on 14 April council at Constance in 1414 all three 1852 which had been found to the popes were forced to resign and Pope south of the Abbey’s Lady Chapel. Martin V was elected as the sole pope. Given that there was a Pope John XXIII It was he whose three bulls were in the twentieth century this seemed found with the skeleton of Abbot John to warrant further research. of Wheathampstead in the recent excavation at the cathedral. Two newspaper reports gave more details and both referred to Pope John More details of this turbulent period XXIII not XXVI. The Hertford Mercury can be found in The Chronica Maiora (24 April 1852) reported that the bull by the Abbey’s chronicler, Thomas had recently been excavated in a Walsingham, which conveniently garden adjoining the Abbey’s east end covers the period 1376-1422. The and that it had the heads of St Peter English translation by David Preest and St Paul on one side and Johannus with introduction and notes by Profes- P.P. 23 on the reverse. Of particular sor James G. Clark is particularly useful interest was that the Revd Nicholson, as Clark corrects inaccuracies and the Society’s chairman and rector of adds details to Walsingham’s narra- the Abbey Church, ‘gave some history tive. of this pope’ so he must have existed. I am delighted to say that the lead bull Having discovered that John XXIII was exhibited at the meeting has now pope from 1410 to 1414 and that the been found in the cathedral’s muni- Roman Catholic Church refers to him ment room and is exactly as described as an antipope, it became clear that in the Hertford Mercury report (see he was in place during the Great photos overleaf). It would be good to Schism in the Western church. The know what document it was attached papal court had officially returned to to but unfortunately this part of Wal- Rome from Avignon in 1377 but papal singham’s Abbey chronicle is missing. elections continued in Avignon too. To One possibility is an injunction about www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 23 the collection of the papal tax or CLOCK TOWER CURIOS Peter’s Penny as we know John’s pred- ecessor, Alexander V, sent one. Hope- Drawing on her unrivalled knowledge of the history of the building, Caroline fully Prof. Clark can resolve this. Howkins has drafted several short notes about the tower for the Newsletter. Many thanks to Liz Rolfe for her help Expect to see the others in future editions. with this note. When was the Clock Tower built? Sheila Green Any entry for the Clock Tower found in a directory or guide up until only a few The obverse (top) and reverse (bottom) of the bulla (Reproduced courtesy of the years ago would have stated that it was Cathedral & Abbey Church of St Alban) built sometime between 1403 and 1412. But, since 2009 when sample tree-ring dating of the building’s timbers was carried out, we can be more pre- cise. The basis of dendrochronolog- ical dating is that trees of the same species, growing at the same time, in similar habitats, produce similar ring-width pat- terns. In the case of the Clock Tower, four samples were taken from timber joists in the Dial Room on the third floor (see photo) which showed that one tree was felled in the winter of 1401-2, and the others in the period 1401-4. This suggests that the tower was erected quickly and probably by 1405. Caroline Howkins www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 24

WHERE IS THAT BRIDGE? were working on the two projects is uncertain. In 1867, material from 700 Struggling to think where in St Albans workers’ huts was put up for auction the bridge shown on the front cover is? by the railway contractors. Through If so, you won’t be alone as it no longer extrapolation this suggests there were exists, at least not in that form. It was up to 7,000 navvies in the area, a barely the original Midland railway bridge credible figure that needs further over London Road which, we assume, thought. There were certainly enough was largely replaced in the 1890s when of them to concern the town’s inhabit- the railway was widened. What a pity ants. Drunkenness was a problem with the ‘handsome skew bridge’, as the beer readily available from at least one Herts Advertiser described it in 1866, has been lost.

We came across that con- temporary photo when we were thinking about how to recognise the 150th anni- versary of the opening of what is now the City Station for passenger traffic on 13 July 1868. As this is arguably one of the most important London Road bridge today from the south-west dates in the history of St (Roderick Douglas) Albans, the remainder of this brief note looks at the building of the Midland off licence on site as well as new public railway in the eastern outskirts of the houses like the Midland Railway Inn town and then considers what some of (now the Horn pub) close by. As a its short-term effects were. counter, local churches clubbed together to provide the navvies with For much of the mid-1860s this was a other things to occupy their spare time. busy building site. On what had been green fields there were hundreds of The opening of the Midland station in men constructing the new gaol as well 1868 passed with little celebration. as the large embankments and bridges Contrast this with the pomp that sur- of the Midland railway extension from rounded the opening of the Abbey Bedford to London. Exactly how many station ten years earlier. Then there www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 25 was a public holiday in the town, 1880. Other ‘firsts’ were the modern everywhere and a procession from the straw hat factories owned by Scott and Town Hall down Holywell Hill to the Kershaw. These were built a year later station. The official speeches that fol- in Victoria Street, their close proximity lowed expressed relief that St Albans to the station convenient for importing was at long last plumbed in to the rail cheap plait from the Far East, a new network and anticipated prosperous source being tapped from c.1870. The times ahead. It is hard though to find previously ‘old fashioned town’, as one evidence for any economic bloom. observer described St Albans in 1864, Prospect Road, where properties on was now a city expanding beyond its the south side of the street abut the municipal boundaries. The Midland Abbey station, is a useful indicator. railway was a key factor in this change Here the few mid-Victorian houses as it still is for the prosperity of the city remind us that development in what in the 21st century. was the prime spot for speculative railway sprawl was little better than A fully referenced version of this note desultory. We can draw the same con- is available in the Society’s Library. Our clusion for the opening in 1865 of the thanks to Edmund King, Rudi Newman Hatfield branch line station in London and Anne Wares for their help. Road. Jon Mein and Roderick Douglas The Midland line differed from the other two in that it did bring significant change. Admittedly we have to look to Missing Back Issues of the the mid-1870s to find it. Only then for Newsletter example was the town council confi- dent enough to initiate the upgrade of We are lacking issues 53-57 from our Victoria Street from not much more Library file of the Society’s Newsletter. than a farm track to today’s thorough- These date to the early 1970s. HALS fare linking town centre and station. would charge heavily for reproduction New residential streets around the copies, and we wonder if any of our station came later in the decade. more senior members have or have Developed on the west side of the inherited copies that we could photo- railway, Oswald Road in 1878/9 was copy or digitise ourselves. probably the first to be laid out. Stan- hope and Granville roads, to the sta- If you are able to help please do let us tion’s immediate east, followed in know via [email protected]. www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 26

RECENT PLANNING REPORTS Monitoring also revealed a structural This is the second in our series of divide between the southern three abstracts from reports considering bays and the northern two bays, with recent archaeological work or architec- the southern range containing 16th tural assessments. These were pro- century fabric, while the northern duced to satisfy planning conditions. If element is probably of 17th century you would like further information date, though insufficient fabric was about any of these, please contact the exposed to confirm with certainty. district archaeologist, Simon West, via [email protected]. The next general phase is largely con- sistent with a late 17th century or early Town Hall Chambers, 18th century date, perhaps around 31 - 37 Market Place 1700. This saw the entire street front Archaeology Solutions Ltd (ASL) rebuilt in brick as well as substantial (Report no. 4932; 2016) internal alterations. Detailed inspec-

Technical analysis allowed the [National Heritage] list description, which ascribes an early 18th century date for construction, to be refined. The earliest fabric visible is consistent with a 16th century date and prior to the planned works included a large chimney stack and a portion of Town Hall Chambers (Roderick Douglas) exposed timber-framing at first floor level, along with the roof tion was carried out in the first floor structure. During the planned works rooms where modern dry lining has the ceilings and floors were exposed been removed as well as at roof level revealing substantial floor joisting where sections of the parapet have typical of the date, as well as small been exposed. The panelling in the first diagonal ties triangulating the tie- floor front rooms appears contempo- beams to the original wall-plate (not rary with the re-fronting of the façade, present). while some time later the panelling was www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 27 hidden behind wallpaper of which only confirms that it existed by 1721. The fragmentary remains survive. roof above the main part of the prop- erty comprises a typical queen strut 132 – 142 Fishpool Street arrangement of 17th - early 18th Archaeology Solutions Ltd century date which has had two phases (Report no. 5219; 2016) of expansion. It has a large brick [Formerly a large gap in the building chimney within the centre of the west line on the north side of the street] three bays; these bays are likely to have formed the earliest part of the The excavation and monitoring building. recorded small scale Roman activity in the form of three pits and a chalk and clay surface. Similar activity has been recorded at sites nearby and this relates to activity beyond the city walls in the ‘urban periphery’ of Verulamium. The archaeological work also recorded post-medieval features which would appear to relate to activity to the rear of street frontage development during this The Hare and Hounds (Roderick Douglas) period. Much of this activity appears to relate to domestic habitation. The Laths and plasterwork were added to final phase of activity recorded relates the roof space, probably during the to 19th century activity. Masonry struc- 18th century, to form a garret. Two tures appear to represent brick-built bays were then added to the east outhouses and garden features, includ- during the late 18th-early 19th century ing attempts to terrace the natural and repairs made using sawn softwood slope of the land. Activity appears to timber. An extension to the south was cease in the mid-19th century when added in the late 19th century and a the site became used as a garden area. single storey extension between 1924 and 1937, although this roof was not Hare & Hounds public house, inspected as part of the works. Sopwell Lane Archaeology Edited by John Ridge and Jon Mein (Report ref. 118250.02; 2017) The National Heritage List for England Note: thanks to Wessex Archaeology description suggests a date of 17th and ASL for permission to use their century and available historic mapping abstracts. www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 28

CONGRATULATIONS … Way Heritage Society, and is one of the founders and leading lights in the St … are due to several SAHAAS members. Albans and District Local History Net- work. Add to these his remarkable feat The Hertfordshire Association for Local in capturing and then indexing digital History gives awards to people who have copies of over 13,000 photos from the made significant contributions to the Herts Advertiser (1914-60) and it is clear promotion of local history in the county. that Mike’s award is very well merited. On a balmy afternoon in May, Mike Neighbour received the award for his Congratulations as well to Simon Langs- achievements in this field from the asso- dale for his recent award of an MA from ciation’s president, Dorothy Abel Smith. the University of Hertfordshire. The subject, the management in the early Even if you don’t know him by sight, Victorian period of the Abbey parish many of you will be familiar with Mike charities, is particularly interesting. In through his excellent two-volume publi- identifying probable links between the cation, St Albans’ Own East End, his embezzlement of charity funds and the regular blog as well as his work with local more familiar story of electoral corrup- history group Fleetville Diaries. His focus tion, Simon questions our understanding stretches beyond the eastern half of the of the town’s many scandals at this time. city though. For example, he actively You can download a copy of his disser- supported the recent station tation from uhra.herts.ac.uk by search- project for the Smallford Station & Alban ing for ‘blagg’ or wait a year or so to hear his talk to the Society as part of the 2019/20 programme.

And last but not least, congratula- tions to Andie Hill. You’ll recall her description in the May newsletter of the schools-focused ‘St Albans Legacy’ project she’s leading. We are delighted to record that Andie has since received over 200 entries to the competition, some of which will be on display at the museum later in Mike Neighbour with Dorothy Abel Smith (P. Sheail) the year. More anon. www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 29

THE ALBAN CITY SCHOOL detailed accounts of the Board meetings which were very lively at times particu- (HATFIELD ROAD) PROJECT larly when religion or the rate to be paid were discussed. In 2016, the School’s headteacher asked Helen Bishop, then the Society’s Presi- We provided a copy of the logs, a dent, whether we could provide compare and contrast exercise for 1879 research into the background of the and 1890 and excerpts on themes original Victorian school to form the including attendance, fees and pupil basis for teaching materials for a Year 5 behaviour with some possible questions module. This site has played a significant to ask pupils. As today, the pressure to role in education in St Albans in various produce the highest possible exam guises. St Peter’s National School was results was great particularly as this built on land donated by Earl Spencer in effected funding and teachers’ pay. 1836. The 1870 Elementary Education Act started the involvement of the State It proved to be a fascinating subject with the formation of the Education which merits more research to produce Department which gave powers to a fuller history of this interesting school Boards of Education run by local people and the development of the Board elected by ratepayers. Revd Horatio schools in general. Is anyone interested Nelson Dudding, vicar of St Peter’s, in helping? If so, please do get in contact handed over the school to the new via [email protected]. board. It opened with 24 scholars as the Hatfield Road Board School for Boys, the Philippa Hurst, Helen Bishop and city’s first board school, in 1879. Romaine Byers

We provided information in a variety of forms which the teachers could use to THE GREAT WAR achieve the skills outlined in the REMEMBERED National Curriculum. This included a timeline, background notes and a map. An evening of remembrance with It is one of the fortunate schools which the words and music of the soldiers has a surviving log book from 1879 to fighting for King and Country. This fund-raising event is at St Michael’s 1896 giving an invaluable insight into church on Friday 7 September school life. Thus, much of the work could 2018. Tickets are £20. be based on a primary source. The Herts Advertiser provided another angle with See stmichaels-parishchurch.org.uk www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 30

SUMMER SOCIAL: DINNER AT THE Between courses Kate Morris enter- tained us with the history of the house VINTRY and regaled us with tales (some of It is a rare treat to have one’s history them scandalous!) of the occupants, served up with fine dining but that is which Ann Dean’s dramatic perform- exactly what we were treated to when ances brilliantly, and humorously, we met at Côte Brasserie for a Society brought to life. summer social. All in all, a thoroughly enjoyable Joining the Mayor of St Albans, Cllr evening. The combination of exploring Rosemary Farmer, around fifty or so local history with a fine meal in a local members of the Society met at The restaurant is a recipe for success that Vintry, 3 High Street on Tuesday 10 July it would be well worth revisiting. Our for dinner and to discover the fascinat- thanks to Kate Morris and Liz Rolfe for ing history of the house, its gardens their impeccable research, Ann Dean and its inhabitants. for her performances and Christine McDermott for her excellent organisa- The evening began al fresco with an tion. invitation to explore the grounds at our leisure. Accompanied by some well Chris Wares written ‘taster notes’ that included helpful maps and images we were able Note: Please see the back cover for to explore the Vintry Gardens while photographs from this event. catching up with friends in the late evening sunshine. I am sure I was not MEMBERSHIP alone in being amazed to discover that, hidden away behind the building, lay Welcome to the following new such an enchanting mews courtyard members: which the owners very kindly permit- ted us to enter from the restaurant William Fingland St Albans gardens. St Albans still has the ability Paul Jellings St Albans to surprise! David Kemp Hatfield Terry Price St Albans After our perambulations the party Nicholas & Judith Salisbury retired inside to a delicious three St Albans course meal, served with generous portions of perfectly seasoned history. David Smith www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 31

AN EVENING IN CODICOTE

On a very warm evening in early July, fifteen members gathered at Codi- cote Museum situated behind the Peace Memorial Hall in the High Street. We were greeted by Nicholas Maddex, chairman and founder member of the Codicote Local History Society. The Museum building pre- The former George & Dragon (Pat Howe) dates the Memorial Hall by about twenty years and was built in 1905 as a working men’s clubhouse; it later Several coaching inns once existed in became the base for the local British the village to take advantage of traffic Legion. The Museum collection on the Bedford to London route. One includes two sets of tools, one belong- of the main inns was the George and ing to Alfred Males who was born in Dragon which was built in three phases 1888 and was a self-taught carpenter between 1500 and 1600 and is now and draughtsman, and the other to three separate dwellings. Another was Alfred Kelly who was one of several the Red Lion: dating from the 17th generations of shoemaker and repair- century, this was still trading in 1960. ers. Also in the village, and like St Albans, Nicholas then took us on a guided tour there are a considerable number of of the centre of the village. The first timber framed dwellings which were reference to Codicote is in 1002 when then clad in brick in the 18th century. King Aethelred the Unready sold the manor to one of his ministers, Aelfelm. At the end of our tour we retreated The latter then gave it to the Abbot and back to the shade of the museum for Chapter of St Albans Abbey which very welcome biscuits and cups of tea owned it until the Reformation. A provided by the Local History Society. weekly market was granted in 1267 to be held on Fridays. The market place Our grateful thanks to Pat Howe for was situated at the junction of the main organising a very interesting evening. Welwyn to Hitchin road and the road from Wheathampstead. Graham Norman www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 32

local flint facing and Roman brick and A DAY IN COLCHESTER tile lacing and string courses. Interest- At 8.30am on 1 May 2018 we boarded ingly, the tiles of the string course are our coach for Colchester (Camulo- laid on their sides and not flat. Patrick dunum), two hours away. We arrived explained that the builders simply at the War Memorial to meet the picked up piles of pilae, from their experienced Blue Badge guide, Patrick positions raising a hypocaust floor, Denny. He introduced the area as the turned the stacks through 90 degrees site of the oldest recorded pre-Roman with mortar still intact, and placed the town in Britain. The Romans later gave stacks in the walls where they are still it the high status of colonia, signifying to be seen as a continuous string. that it housed military veterans. We walked around the castle, looked In Castle Park sits the largest remaining at the monument commemorating the Norman keep in Europe; it is 50 per Civil War siege and gazed over the cent more extensive than London’s beautifully maintained and landscaped White Tower. It was built between gardens flowing down to the river 1069 and 1076, by Gundulf, Bishop of before walking to the nearby narrow Rochester, founded on the podium of historic streets. Here we saw a road the Roman temple of Claudius. The with coloured paviours setting out the massive vaults beneath have been corner of a great Roman theatre, prob- excavated and are viewable on a castle ably built over an earlier one men- tour. The familiar story of Roman mate- tioned by Tacitus as being here in the rial recycling is illustrated externally by time of Boudicca. We entered the ground floor of a house main- taining an exposure of the exca- vation of the theatre’s foundations with useful wall illustrations indicating the the- atre’s form and use. Second came the Dutch quar- ter: ancient streets and eclectic architecture, home to 16th century Flemish refugees fleeing religious persecution, and earlier Jewish and other Part of the group by the Roman wall (Roy Bratby) refugees. Here, we viewed late www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 33 medieval timber-framed and jettied From Colchester, we travelled to St houses. This walk ended past the prom- Michael and All Angels Church in inent Victorian water tower, named Copford to be welcomed by the well locally as ‘Jumbo’, by a pedestrian arch informed church warden, Heather at the Balkerne Gate through a section Garnham, who also kindly provided tea of the town’s Roman wall. Colchester and biscuits. The Norman and later is fortunate in having large portions of frescos are some of the finest and best this wall intact where some of the preserved in Britain. Saved from the facing survives, not just the core. Reformation by white-wash, the Victo- rian renovators cleaned and then After lunch, we moved to the Roman falsely coloured some of the images. circus for a tour led by Philip Crummy, However, the vista, including an Director and Principal Archaeologist of unusual arch of zodiac symbols, shows the Colchester Archaeology Trust. The how wonderfully and fully decorated only known example of a circus in churches of this era were. Britain, the site is still a work in progress having only been discovered Elated and tired, we returned from this in 2005 during exploratory excavations packed day at 6.30pm. prior to development. It became a Dr Tony Berk Scheduled Monument in 2007 and now has a visitor centre housing an excel- lent 3-D scale model.

The circus was an elongated oval race track, approximately 450m by 70m with a spina, or separator, along much of its central area containing large lap-counters. Highly skilled charioteers sped around several times and danger- ously jostled and raced in teams. Up to 15,000 people could be seated and there is a clever full-sized cross-sec- tional model of the circus’s raked seat- ing. The location of the starting gates is indicated with narrowly spaced full- sized block-built sections. Chariot horses were bred smaller and lighter than horses today. Wall paintings at Copford church (Roy Bratby) www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 34

history and has been working with the LECTURE PROGRAMME HGT to produce a book on the 11 September – 20 November 2018 Humphry Repton sites in Hertfordshire All lectures commence at 7.45pm. in time for his bicentenary in 2018, as well as on a number of local and All lectures are held at Marlborough national projects. Kate is the national Road Methodist Church. research co-ordinator for Repton for Late changes will be notified on our the country gardens trusts and is website and via e-news. helping to organise the seminar to be held at the Garden Museum in London Tuesday 11 September 7.30pm in November. Annual General Meeting followed by: Tuesday 18 September Repton and the Regency Park and Wrest Park – Thomas Archer’s Garden in Hertfordshire Pavilion Kate Harwood Richard Luscombe & John Wallace Over the course of his career Repton Thomas Archer (1668-1743) was a was commissioned for 400 sites leading Baroque architect, whose across England, Scotland and Wales, extant works bear testimony to his with influences further afield. Seven- strong continental influences. Among teen of his commissions were in Hert- these are St Philip's Cathedral, Bir- fordshire, a high concentration for a mingham; St John's, Smith Square, small county. However, he was not London; and Chatsworth's grand the only landscape designer of note Cascade House of 1703. In 1709 he at that time; Lewis Kennedy and began a commission from Henry Grey, William Sawrey Gilpin also designed 1st Duke of Kent, to build a magnifi- gardens in Hertfordshire. The talk will cent domed Pavilion at the end of put their work in our county in context Wrest Park's Long Water. A major and look at what the future holds for restoration in 2017, by English Herit- these sites. age, reclaimed the Pavilion's iconic place as a central focus. The lecture Kate Harwood is a former university will outline the history and architec- lecturer in Garden History and is Con- ture of the Pavilion within the context servation and Planning Officer for of other garden buildings at Wrest. Hertfordshire Gardens Trust (HGT) and a member of SAHAAS. She lec- Richard Luscombe and John Wallace tures, writes and teaches on garden are members of the Volunteer History www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 35

Research Team at Wrest Park; an discussing a selection of buildings English Heritage property. Richard is from his books on Whitechapel illus- its Volunteer Historical Records trated with his photography of the Keeper. Qualified as an historian, he area. has a background in teaching and Louis Berk is an award-winning pho- local studies librarianship. He fre- tographer and former secondary quently writes on the history of Wrest. school teacher who has specialised in John is a Joint Co-ordinator leading the urban photography in the historic east Volunteer History Research Team. A end districts of Whitechapel and Spi- chartered architect, with many years' talfields for the last 15 years. Amongst experience working on historic build- his many publications his most recent ings, his background is invaluable for books include Whitechapel in 50 Build- his historical research with English ings and Secret Whitechapel (jointly Heritage. authored with Rachel Kolsky) and East End Jewish Cemeteries: Brady Street Tuesday 25 September and Alderney Road, the result of a Whitechapel in 50 Buildings 5-year photographic study in two of Louis Berk the oldest Jewish cemeteries in the Whitechapel is one of the best-known east end. He has also had his work districts of Greater London, if not the published in books and magazines in world. The buildings here range from publications as broad as a biography the majestic – for example, the Nicho- of the artist Banksy and the ‘Boris Bus’. las Hawksmoor churches at the eastern and southern end of the dis- Tuesday 9 October trict and the magnificent Royal Marshalswick Mansion and London Hospital in the centre – to a St Albans’s Country House Heritage wonderful series of social housing Dr Peter Burley projects which date from 1695 to the modern era. The buildings also map Marshalswick mansion stood on the the journey of the various immigrant northern side of St Albans until 1927, communities from the Huguenot when it was dismantled brick by brick. weavers of the 18th century to the It is the only country house lost in St large Jewish community of the 19th Albans in the inter-war period. This and 20th centuries to the recent talk will look at the origins of the growth of the Bangladeshi commu- house and its name, who lived there nity, as evidenced by the changing over the centuries and the different face of Brick Lane. Louis Berk will be garden design and architectural www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 36 phases it went through. Its heyday in raphers and historians, albeit for dif- the late 19th century and what fering reasons. In this talk Dr Holmes remains of its heritage will be explains the discrepancy and seeks to explored, together with why it failed shed fresh light on Chamberlain’s when other country houses of the enigmatic and controversial career. same period locally have survived. Dr Martin Holmes is well known as an Re-watching a few episodes of Oxford University specialist in British Downton Abbey will be essential prep- and European Politics and History in aration for this talk! the 20th century. A graduate of Uni- Peter read history at the University of versity College Oxford, he was Lec- York and then did research at Univer- turer in Politics at St Hugh’s College sity College London, gaining a PhD in Oxford, 1987 – 2009, since when he 1981. Among his published works are has been an (Hon) Member of the Witness to the Revolution (Weiden- Senior Common Room. He is the feld and Nicolson, 1989), on the author of six books on British and French Revolution and The Battles of European Politics and the author of St Albans (with two colleagues – Pen many articles and essays and has been and Sword, 2007). He is a member of the Oxford Director of the University the Battlefields Trust, English Heritage of Nebraska annual undergraduate and SAHAAS, of which he is vice-pres- summer program since 1989. He has ident. He participated on the St Albans spoken regularly at academic confer- Museums and Galleries Advisory ences in Britain and Europe as well as Group. He is researching, writing and lecturing in the United States, South presenting on local topics. He has lived Korea, Australia and Malaysia. in St Albans – and on the battlefield of the Second Battle of St Albans (1461) Tuesday 23 October – since 1976. The General in Winter: the Marlbor- ough / Godolphin relationship Tuesday 16 October Dr Frances Harris Neville Chamberlain: a Reputation The lecture will draw on Dr Harris’s Revised book, The General in Winter: the Dr Martin Holmes Marlborough-Godolphin Friendship Although regarded as a disastrous and the Reign of Queen Anne. It was Prime Minister by the British public, said of Queen Anne’s Captain-Gen- Neville Chamberlain has been eral, John Churchill, 1st Duke of Marl- defended by many professional biog- borough, and her Lord Treasurer, www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 37

Sidney, 1st Earl of Godolphin, that each Tuesday 6 November was “the greatest of his kind that hardly The Monks’ Graveyard Excavation: any age has afforded”. Their public Finding a lost Abbot at the Abbey partnership was chiefly responsible for Church and Cathedral of St Albans what has been called “the glories of the Ross Lane Age of Anne”, the Union of England and Scotland to form “this Island of Britain”, Between August 2017 and February and its establishment as a European 2018, the Canterbury Archaeological and global power. But it was not just a Trust worked at the Cathedral and public partnership; it was also a close Abbey Church of St Alban ahead of the and lifelong friendship which fully construction of a new visitor, education encompassed Marlborough’s beautiful and welcome centre. Commissioned by and tempestuous wife Sarah. One of the Dean and Chapter and overseen by the places most closely associated with Cathedral Archaeologist Professor it was Holywell House, St Albans, and Martin Biddle, the team was tasked the gardens Marlborough created here. with excavating ground situated within the angle of the south-east Transept Frances Harris was formerly Head of and Presbytery. This lecture will Modern (post-1603) Historical Manu- describe the significant finds discov- scripts at the British Library and since ered during the excavations including her retirement in 2010 has held Honor- the long-lost brick-lined tomb which ary Research Fellowships at Sheffield evidence suggests contains the remains University and Birkbeck College, Univer- of Abbot John of Wheathampstead who sity of London. She has published died in 1465. several books and articles on the later Stuart period of British history, includ- Ross Lane is currently a Project Officer ing A Passion for Government: The Life at Canterbury Archaeological Trust of Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough, having started with the company in Transformations of Love: The Friend- 2005. Originally from Canterbury his ship of John Evelyn and Margaret entire archaeological career has been Godolphin, and in 2017, the last volume involved in the study of Kent and its of the trilogy, The General in Winter: surroundings, with a particular interest the Marlborough-Godolphin Friendship in the development of pre-historic set- and the Reign of Queen Anne. tlements. His previous experience exca- vating medieval sites include a Hospice founded by St Radigund’s Abbey in www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 38

Canterbury and a selection of buildings Kris took up a post at UCL where he is from rural medieval Sturry, Kent. now a senior lecturer. He returned to live in Hertfordshire in 2002 and was Tuesday 13 November able to develop his love of the archaeol- Lamer Park ogy of the county. Since 2009 he has Dr Kris Lockyear been director of the Welwyn Archaeo- logical Society, and in 2013 he founded Archaeology begins at home, and in this the Community Archaeology Geophysics case literally. Lamer was a minor Group. Amongst his various publica- country house situated just north of tions is the edited volume Archaeology Wheathampstead. With its origins in in Hertfordshire: Recent Research, pub- the 13th century, the estate survived lished in 2015 by the University of Hert- until just after the Second World War fordshire Press. when most of the land was sold off for agriculture, and the Georgian house Tuesday 20 November demolished. A surprising amount of the Sir Thomas Gresham’s Exchange house and gardens survive, however, Professor Stephen Alford and the speaker now lives in part of the coach house constructed in c.1760. The “Go to the Exchange, crave gold as you grounds were designed by Nathaniel intend.” (William Haughton, English- Richmond and Humphry Repton. This men for My Money, 1598). Sir Thomas talk looks at the archaeology and Gresham's first great contribution to history of the area, including map evi- the life of Elizabethan London was the dence and church monuments, to Royal Exchange, the purpose-built mer- throw light on one of the less well- chants' bourse which opened in 1567. known estates of Hertfordshire. Why did Gresham finance and build it? What did Londoners (and others) do Kris became interested in archaeology there? What does the Exchange tell us at the age of 10 when he visited Veru- about Gresham's ambitions both for lamium on a school trip. He joined the himself and for London? And what does Welwyn Archaeological Society aged 11 it suggest about how trade and culture and excavated with Martin Biddle on were changing and developing in the the Chapter House site at the age of 13. later sixteenth century? Having undertaken a BA at Durham, an MSc in Archaeological Computing in Stephen Alford was educated at the Southampton, and then a PhD at UCL, University of St Andrews and taught for www.stalbanshistory.org SAHAAS NEWSLETTER 209 Page 39 fifteen years at the University of Cam- Secret History of the Reign of Elizabeth bridge before moving in 2012 to Leeds I (2012), a short study of King Edward as Professor of Early Modern British VI for the Penguin Monarchs series History. He is the author of six books, (2014) and most recently London's Tri- including a biography of William Cecil, umph: Merchant Adventurers and the Lord Burghley (2008), The Watchers: A Tudor City (2017).

tant for our understanding of the THE THIRD ‘ARCHAEOLOGY IN development of coinage at this time. HERTFORDSHIRE’ CONFERENCE Quirky stuff, to me anyway, but none- Along with several other Society mem- theless fascinating. Having to leave bers, I made the journey on Saturday early, I missed Richard Mortimer’s 14 July to the Museum in Bishop’s presentation about Iron Age territorial Stortford to attend this biennial con- boundaries: subsequent reports of ference. I am not much of an archae- this were excellent. ologist, Victorian social history being more my pigeon. On the face of it, the In general terms, what was noticeable programme of ten 30-minute talks was how accessible the talks were to promised little to justify a 2-hour someone with my limited archaeolog- round trip to the Essex border. ical knowledge. There were few occa- sions during the day when my I am glad I made the effort as there comprehension was defeated by were plenty of highlights. Two talks in unexplained jargon for example. particular held my attention: Ross Lane’s about the recent dig at the Hearty congratulations to the organ- Abbey and Helen Gibson’s discussion isers, Kris Lockyear and other of the ‘New River’. Both were certainly members of the Welwyn Archaeolog- worth hearing and are by coincidence ical Society together with Chris Lyda- part of the Society’s 2018/19 lecture more and the museum team. The programme. An introduction to the organisation was good, the venue development of Bishop’s Stortford with its on-site parking was easy to also contained much of interest with find and the IT/AV facilities fit for its overview of the changes to the purpose. For most of us the proposed location of the river crossing and the location for the next conference will town’s street pattern. And then there be much closer to home: St Albans in was Mark Landon’s talk about the 2020. extensive Iron Age coin mould discov- eries at Braughing. These are impor- Jon Mein Pictures from the Summer Social

The former stable block with the exit to Holywell Hill

Now that’s a view to have from your back garden!

Kate Morris describing the former inhabitants of no. 3 High Street

(L-R) Liz Rolfe, Cllr Rosemary Farmer, Mayor of St Albans, Sandy Walkington and Kate Morris

Photos courtesy of Andy Lawrence