LONDON-BASED DAVID KOMA IS NAMED MUGLER’S PRE-FALL 2014 NEW ARTISTIC GIORGIO ARMANI DIRECTOR OF AND BOTTEGA VENETA WOMEN’S READY-TO- WERE AMONG THE WEAR. PAGE 6 FUR DENNIS HIGHLIGHTS OF PRE-FALL. DEBRA MESSING WAS AMONG THE CELEBS PAGES 4 AND 5 WHO TURNED OUT TO FETE DENNIS MUGLER’S MAN BASSO’S NEW FLAGSHIP. PAGE 10

REAL ESTATE TRENDS Deals, Revamps Stir Developers’ Optimism

By SHARON EDELSON

NEW YORK — Malls are turning themselves inside out. In a bid to attract more luxury tenants, including res- taurants, malls are expanding with more street-facing storefronts. The goal is to allow high-end shoppers and diners to go into stores without having to walk through FRIDAY, DECEMBER 13, 2013 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY the food court — or the hordes of everyday consumers. “We’re repositioning our portfolio,” said Emerick WWD Corsi, president of real estate asset services at Forest City. “We’re bringing better department stores, better fashion and more electronic marketing. We’re bring- ing patio dining and upscale retail. Restaurants are as important as department stores. They do more vol- ume than department stores can do. The average res- taurant does $13 million a year. That’s why we want to turn our malls inside out.” Happy That was one of the main trends at the International Council of Shopping Centers’ confer- ence earlier this week, held at the Hilton Hotel and Sheraton Hotel and Towers, here. The convention was described as “the best in recent years” by partici- Days pants, who fl ocked to the meeting; attendance spiked 9.5 percent over last year. Many said the New York confab has grown beyond a regional event to gain na- tional recognition. “This convention is becoming more important. It’s Are Here just like Las Vegas,” William Taubman, chief operat- ing offi cer of Taubman Centers Inc., said, referring to the ICSC’s massive ReCon conference in Las Vegas. Refl ecting its size and stature, the New York meeting will move to a new location next year — the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center. Again The increased attendance refl ected a rising opti- mism among major real estate fi rms, which increas- With its latest scent, ingly are on the hunt for acquisitions to bolster Endless Euphoria, their portfolios. the Calvin Klein fragrance Vornado, Thor, Crown and Jeffrey Sutton are brand is adding to its SEE PAGE 12 powerhouse Euphoria BEAUTY INC’S VISIONARY franchise with a juice designed to appeal to youthful consumers. Wexner on Beauty The initiative is the fi rst move aimed And Philanthropy at freshening up the venerable beauty brand. By MOLLY PRIOR For more, see page 8. AS HE ACCEPTED the WWD Beauty Inc Visionary award on Wednesday morning, Leslie H. Wexner was struck by the sense of congeniality among the beauty crowd in attendance. Wexner, who views himself as a merchant above all else, said, “If [apparel executives] were having an awards ceremony, it would be more like ‘drown and die.’” Wexner, founder, chairman and chief executive of- fi cer of L Brands Inc., has built a $10.4 billion empire by plucking categories out of department stores and creating stand-alone store concepts around them as mighty as Bath & Body Works, Victoria’s Secret and The Limited. He has since sold The Limited, along with several other nameplates, and now presides over fi ve brands, namely Bath & Body Works, Victoria’s Secret, Victoria’s Secret Pink, La Senza and Henri Bendel. “I’m really a retailer. I’ve spent most of my life as a fashion retailer,” Wexner told attendees gathered at The Four Season Restaurant in New York. “I appreciate being honored by an industry that I don’t really feel that I am a member of. Nevertheless, I am happy to be a participant.” While Wexner views himself as more of a latecomer to beauty — entering the industry in earnest in 1990 with Victoria’s Secret Beauty and Bath & Body Works — he’s helped to transform the way women shop for personal care by offering a pulsing and exciting al- ternative to both department stores and drugstores. Asked recently by Beauty Inc what prompted his move PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO, STYLED BY SHARON BER into beauty, Wexner said, “By nature I am very curious, SEE PAGE 9 2 WWD FRIDAY, DECEMBER 13, 2013 WWD.COM Calypso Names Meads CEO THE BRIEFING BOX perience, which includes public companies such as IN TODAY’S WWD By SHARON EDELSON Aéropostale, where Meads led the development and successful launch of “P.S.,” Aéropostale’s kids divi- MINDY MEADS has been named chief executive of- sion. During her tenure, Aéropostale became the ficer of Calypso St. Barth. fastest-growing apparel company in the U.S. Sales Meads, who resigned as Aéropostale Inc.’s presi- grew significantly, including a 22 percent CAGR in dent and co-ceo in 2010, has been a consultant since e-commerce sales, and a double-digit operating mar- leaving the teen retailer and serves on the board of gin, which led to a 350-plus percent increase in net The Wet Seal Inc., among other compa- earnings per diluted share. nies. Calypso, which was founded on the Known as a seasoned merchandising Caribbean island, has never had a ceo. and operations executive, Meads was ceo The move reflects the strength of the of Victoria’s Secret Direct prior to joining brand and its growth trajectory. Sources Aéropostale in 2007 as president. In 2003, familiar with the company said Calypso Meads was named ceo of Lands’ End, the ap- is tracking to be a $100 million busi- parel retailer that’s now a division of Sears ness next year and owner Solera Capital Holdings Corp. She’s also held positions at LLC has plans for expanding the spe- Gymboree, The Limited and Macy’s East. cialty chain, which operates 46 stores in Chief operating officer David Stiffman, Mindy Meads Wolfgang Puck and Gelila the U.S. Calypso opened four stores in an industry veteran, has provided the re- Assefa at the Freeway California this year and signed a lease tailer with continuity and was elevated Eyewear event. For more, KEENAN STEFANIE at Brookfield Place, formerly the World Financial this fall to co-president along with Stephanie D. see WWD.com. Center. The company also is interested in building Smith, who has since left the company. PHOTO BY out accessories and other categories and is said to In a letter to Calypso employees obtained by be exploring international expansion. WWD, Meads said, “Calypso has stayed true to the Solera’s history of taking companies public — essence of the brand, which has created an intense- In a bid to attract more luxury tenants, including restaurants, last year it orchestrated an initial public offering for ly loyal client base. This will continue to be our top mall are expanding with more street-facing storefronts. PAGE 1 Annie’s Inc., the organic and natural food firm — im- priority. There are great opportunities ahead of us. plies opportunities for Calypso. Molly Ashby, Solera’s The Calypso brand is sophisticated, unique and res- Leslie H. Wexner, founder, chairman and chief executive ceo, was said to be attracted to Meads’ range of ex- onates with quality, adventure and passion.” officer of L Brands Inc. was among the winners at the WWD/ Beauty Inc. awards. PAGE 1

Thierry Mugler is pinning its fashion future on David Jones-Sycamore Deal Said Near Closing Koma, a buzzy, London-based designer of Georgian descent known for sexy, sculptural creations. PAGE 6 AFTER MONTHS OF meeting with strategic and fi- WSJ.com reported Thursday that the deal would nancial suitors, The Jones Group Inc. is just about value Jones at $1.2 billion, or $15 a share. The stock Photographer Kate Barry, the daughter of actress Jane ready for the altar. rose 4.7 percent to $14.37 on Thursday with 3.6 mil- Birkin and Academy Award-winning composer John Barry, The company’s talks with Sycamore Partners lion shares trading hands — more than three times died in Paris at 46. PAGE 6 appear to be wrapping up and sources said a deal the daily average. could come next week. It’s a big fish for Sycamore to reel in. Jones logged Men’s Wearhouse has quietly launched a multifacted trade- The process, being handled by Citi, has been a sales of $3.75 billion last year from about 35 brands. up program as its both fended off and initiated acquisition long and winding one for Jones and things could still Led by Stefan L. Kaluzny, Sycamore owns The overtures of Jos. A. Bank. PAGE 7 change. One source said the deal was initially expect- Talbots Inc., Hot Topic Inc. and MGF Sourcing. ed to wrap up on Monday, but was pushed back a week. Should a deal close, the company is expected to Consumer shopping gave a boost to department stores Sycamore was originally looking to buy the apparel turn around and sell or license out parts of the in November, but they appeared to pull back on purchases side of Jones, while KKR & Co. was interested in ac- business and perhaps to some familiar names. from apparel and accessories stores. PAGE 7 quiring the footwear business. But KKR dropped out G-III is said to still be interested in the Jones New and Sycamore shifted its interest to footwear and G-III York brand and Sherson Group, a longtime licensee Gucci Guilty Stud Limited Edition, a his and hers duo Apparel Group zeroed in on the apparel business. of Jones’ Nine West footwear brand, previously hired previewed on Dec. 1 at Harrods in London and Takashimaya WWD reported in November that G-III dropped investment bank Avalon Net Worth to try to buy the in Singapore, will roll out globally in February. PAGE 8 out, leaving the field to Sycamore. moderate footwear portfolio. — EVAN CLARK

Drew Barrymore turned out with beauty industry heavyweights for the WWD Beauty Inc Awards on Wednesday morning. PAGE 9 Lululemon Shares Slip on Outlook Popsugar Inc.-owned ShopStyle has tapped Miranda Potdevin was named her successor on Tuesday. Kerr to appear in its first print, T V, digital and out of home By VICKI M. YOUNG He will start in January. Potdevin was president of advertisements. PAGE 11 Toms Shoes and before that president and ceo of LULULEMON ATHLETICA Inc.’s shares dropped snowboarding firm Burton. His technical apparel On Tuesday night, Kenneth Cole recapped his career with 11.7 percent Thursday after the company, whose expertise and global experience are expected to Fern Mallis at 92Y. PAGE 11 third quarter results beat Wall Street’s consensus help the company expand on an international basis. by 4 cents, provided fourth-quarter guidance below Neither Day nor Wilson were participants in the The BBC’s “Culture Show” gets up close with Sir Paul analysts’ expectations. conference call to Wall Street analysts. Smith in a TV program that airs today and Saturday on The company guided fourth quarter diluted John E. Currie, the firm’s chief financial officer, BBC World News. PAGE 11 EPS in the range of 78 to 80 cents, on a net revenue told analysts, “The third quarter went pretty much range of between $535 million and $540 million. It as we had planned and guided. We started the quar- ON WWD.COM also forecasted flat comps for the quarter on a con- ter running at a low single digit comp rate, as de- stant-dollar basis. Analysts’ consensus pegged EPS livery issues caused us to keep summer goods on at 84 cents on net revenue of $572.5 million. our floors through August, when we normally would EYE: Los Angeles boutique Maxfield hosted a party for Freeway For full fiscal year 2013, Lululemon expects dilut- have set our fall product.” Eyewear’s latest collaboration. For more, see WWD.com. ed EPS of between $1.94 to $1.96 and net revenue es- He said that the black Luon yoga pant, which sentially flat at $1.61 billion compared with a year ago. was the subject of a recall earlier this year, drove Shares of Lululemon closed down $7.96 at sales in August and September. He noted that the TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. $60.39. “late product deliveries that impacted [the third WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. For the three months ended Nov. 3, net income quarter] have also continued, resulting in uneven COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. rose 15.3 percent to $66.1 million, or 45 cents a diluted product flow, and in some cases, cancellation of VOLUME 206, NO. XX. XXX XXXX XX, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two additional share, from $57.4 million, or 39 cents, a year ago. Wall purchase orders. We know that any lost sales in- issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Street was expecting EPS of 41 cents. Net revenue curred during the fourth quarter resulting from this Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, rose 20 percent to $379.9 million from $316.5 million, increased focus on quality is the smart investment Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, with comparable store sales rising 5 percent. The firm for the long-term health of the business.” and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West said direct to consumer revenue jumped 37 percent to The company has been fine-tuning its supply chain Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 6356, $62 million, or 16.3 percent of total company revenues. team and quality control procedures, the cfo said. 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If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever Christine Day, Lululemon’s chief executive offi- in traffic to our stores. Our best guess is that this is dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new cer, said, “This so far has been a year of challenges, a result of a combination of causes. There is a dif- subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please learning, and growth for Lululemon, and while our ficult macro retail backdrop with all retailers expe- call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints of articles please contact The YGS outlook for the fourth quarter is being impacted by riencing lower traffic, but it would be naïve to think Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. Occasionally we make our both macro and execution issues, I believe that the that the company-specific issues that we’ve been subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest investments we are making in the business com- dealing with this year from the Luon setback to the our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593 or call 866-401-7801. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR bined with the team in place create a strong plat- recent negative [public relations] issues have not DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED form for growth in the years ahead.” also had some impact. The combination of traffic TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, Day is set to leave the company at yearend. She and product issues resulted in a lower expectation UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND made known her plans to resign in June. Laurent for fourth quarter guidance.” OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. F E B RUA R Y 11, 2 0 1 4

MALLY RONCAL RICK HASSELBECK SARAH KUGELMAN MALLY BEAUTY PROCTER & GAMBLE SKYN ICELAND

KATHY WIDMER DAVID RUBIN DENEE PEARSON ELIZABETH ARDEN INC. UNILEVER L’ORÉAL LUXE

@WWDSUMMITS • #WWDDIG • WWD.COM/DIGBEAUTY To attend: [email protected], 212.630.4212 To sponsor: [email protected], 212.630.4824

SPONSORED BY: 4 WWD friday, december 13, 2013

Giorgio Armani Giorgio Bottega Veneta Emporio Armani Armani

Bottega Veneta avesi p iovanna g george chinsee and john aquino, photos by

a treatise that mostly played out via skirt and a masculine double-breasted silk, cotton and stretch linen, with more fabric play with graphic surface detail. maxi wool coat. That look featured directional items delivered in a spare Maier took a multifaceted approach minimal lines, but a wool jacquard zipped white jumpsuit, a crisp cotton dress worn to the visual theme, most strikingly in bomber-and-shorts number was cut with with an abstract cable-knit sweater and a a black-and-white group that subtly more voluminous proportions. beautiful sheer embroidered dress. The Pre-Fa ll 2014 picked up on floral motifs. For example, For a relaxed-yet-elegant look, Armani latter captured Theyskens’ taste for dark Giorgio Armani: Well-cut jackets and printed ponyskin, showing it with roomy a chic lamb shearling coat, in a hue the offered an ample wool pin-striped cape glamour in a look meant for reality. comfortable pants defined Giorgio stretch-wool pants. A longer double designer referred to as “mist,” featured worn over a rounded-hem skirt in the Armani’s elegant collection. A velvet cashmere option was decorated with an abstract black pattern that vaguely same fabric. Marchesa Voyage: For Marchesa Voyage’s double-breasted blazer, worn over a silk appliquéd squared pockets. looked like petals. first pre-fall collection, Georgina blouse in a micro geometric print, was Theory: Now showing under the label Chapman and Keren Craig traveled, paired with draped silk cadi pants, while Bottega Veneta: Chrysanthemums. More Emporio Armani: Severe, stately silhouettes Theory, as opposed to Theyskens’ Theory, creatively speaking, to summertime in a wool jacquard three-button jacket was specifically, “the flower as a bud, the were juxtaposed with more playful, girly Olivier Theyskens stuck to the core of the early 20th-century Deauville. The theme matched with baggy pleated cotton pants. flower opening up, the flower falling styles at Emporio Armani. A structured brand, reworking its polished practicality has been explored by several other Armani also reworked the classic apart,” said Tomas Maier of his thought wool jacquard blazer in a micro polka dot with a relaxed attitude. Shirts, pants brands in the past but rather than sailor caban into a cropped style in leopard- process behind Bottega Veneta’s lineup, pattern was shown with a matching column and blazers were cut loose and light in stripes, the designers honed in on breezy

w13a004(5)a;5.indd 1 12/12/13 4:37 PM 12122013164055 WWD friday, december 13, 2013 5 WWD.COM

Emporio Armani Theory Marchesa Alice + Olivia Voyage

Pamella Marissa Roland Webb

For more pre-Fall coverage, see WWD.com/ runway.

skirt and a masculine double-breasted silk, cotton and stretch linen, with more fare, such as a pretty pleated, botanical- Bendet paired it all with novelty bags: actually at their best when completely maxi wool coat. That look featured directional items delivered in a spare print tea dress with lace insets. little purses in shapes like unicorns and devoid of color: The daywear pieces done minimal lines, but a wool jacquard zipped white jumpsuit, a crisp cotton dress worn On the more structured end, there pianos, and a tote with a caricature of in black leather, including a shift dress bomber-and-shorts number was cut with with an abstract cable-knit sweater and a were men’s inspired shirts, tailored Bendet hailing a cab that could hold a and several separates, fared better than more voluminous proportions. beautiful sheer embroidered dress. The jackets and jeans that came elaborately laptop or a pair of party girl heels. the sequin gowns. For a relaxed-yet-elegant look, Armani latter captured Theyskens’ taste for dark embroidered or textured to loosely offered an ample wool pin-striped cape glamour in a look meant for reality. resemble python skin. Pamella Roland: Pamella Roland showed a Marissa Webb: For her first pre-fall worn over a rounded-hem skirt in the collection of “after-five” cocktail looks, collection, Marissa Webb designed with same fabric. Marchesa Voyage: For Marchesa Voyage’s Alice + Olivia: Stacey Bendet knows a thing many of them done in a jungle motif. herself in mind, focusing on comfortable first pre-fall collection, Georgina or two about being a busy working woman Animal prints came abstract, varying items that polish a casual wardrobe. Theory: Now showing under the label Chapman and Keren Craig traveled, with a social calendar, and her latest Alice from a barely there leopard print in Everything had considered details: Theory, as opposed to Theyskens’ Theory, creatively speaking, to summertime in + Olivia collection offered plenty of cute sequins to oversize tiger stripes on leather trim on the bottom half of an Olivier Theyskens stuck to the core of the early 20th-century Deauville. The theme options for her like-minded customers. shiny jacquard. oversize wool blazer; sheer organza brand, reworking its polished practicality has been explored by several other There were pretty collars and bows and The color palette never strayed far overlay on a white A-line skirt, and with a relaxed attitude. Shirts, pants brands in the past but rather than sailor bits of fur, and flirty skirts in men’s wear from neutrals, including beige and deep French lace sleeves and trim on a black and blazers were cut loose and light in stripes, the designers honed in on breezy box plaids, pinstripes and silver sequins. purples and reds. The clothes were dress that could also work as a tunic.

w13a004(5)a;5.indd 2 12/12/13 4:38 PM 12122013164058 6 WWD FRIDAY, DECEMBER 13, 2013 Thierry Mugler Taps Koma OBITUARY Photographer Kate Barry A fashion wunderkind, Koma tails about Koma’s contract, but By MILES SOCHA said he started sketching fash- Courtin-Clarins characterized it Most recently, her work ions at age eight and happened as a “long-term partnership.” By JOELLE DIDERICH was the subject of the inau- PARIS — Thierry Mugler is pin- upon a television program about The granddaughter of Clarins gural exhibition at the new ning its fashion future on David Mugler when he was 12 and living founder Jacques Courtin-Clarins, PARIS — Photographer Kate Galerie Cinéma in the Marais Koma, a buzzy, London-based de- in St. Petersburg. “I recorded it she is part of the new guard at Barry, the daughter of actress district of Paris. “Point of signer of Georgian descent known and watched it again and again. Mugler following the exit earlier Jane Birkin and Oscar-winning View — Portrait/Still Lives,” for sexy, sculptural creations. I was completely blown away,” he this year of Joël Palix, longtime composer John Barry, has died which ran Sept. 27 to Nov. 20, The French firm, controlled recalled. “I think the style is very president of the Groupe Clarins in Paris at 46. featured portraits of Sofia by Groupe Clarins, will reveal distinctive and very powerful.” fragrance division, which com- Barry was known for her in- Coppola, Isabelle Huppert and today that Koma, 28, is its new prises brands such as Azzaro and timate portraits of personalities Catherine Deneuve alongside artistic director of women’s Swarovski, in addition to Mugler. including Carla Bruni-Sarkozy, Barry’s more personal work. ready-to-wear. Sandrine Groslier is now Diane Kruger, Sonia Rykiel, Hedi Film producer Anne- He starts Jan. 2 and is to pres- chief executive officer of Thierry Slimane and her half-sisters, Dominique Toussaint, who ent his first Mugler collection for Mugler fragrances and fashion. Charlotte Gainsbourg and Lou founded the gallery, met the the resort season in June, with Strasbourg, France-born Doillon. She regularly worked photographer on the set of his runway debut in September Mugler trained as a classical with fashion and beauty brands “Jacky in Women’s Kingdom,” during Paris Fashion Week. dancer, and founded his fashion including Balenciaga, Comptoir which stars Charlotte “We want to write a new house in 1974 at 25, earning fast des Cotonniers and La Redoute. Gainsbourg and is scheduled page for Mugler, putting it acclaim for his futuristic and Barry reportedly fell from for release in January. It was back on the map in the fash- hyperfeminine designs. He went the window of her fourth- the second film on which ion business,” said Virginie on to create a series of success- floor apartment in the 6th ar- Barry worked as a unit stills Courtin-Clarins, director of de- ful scents with Clarins, staring rondissement on photographer. velopment, marketing and com- in 1992 with Angel, a blockbust- Wednesday evening. “She was a mul- munications at Mugler Fashion. er that endures as one of the French authorities tifaceted and ex- “We have the potential to mod- world’s top-selling fragrances. are investigating the ceptional woman ernize it and I think the poten- However, Mugler’s fashions circumstances of who was known for tial is huge.” lost momentum and resonance her death. many things — her in the minimalist Nineties and, family, obviously, She called Koma’s body-con- David Koma In a tribute, French scious approach “in the same in 2003, Clarins shuttered the Culture Minister her humanitar- line as the Mugler DNA, yet he money-losing rtw business and Aurélie Filippetti ian actions and her has his own modern and unique Koma went on to study fine focused mostly on building its recalled that Barry generosity. She was vision of a woman.” art in the Russian city and de- fragrance portfolio, creating had turned to photog- all of those things, Koma succeeds Nicola sign his first collection at 15. Alien in 2005, and following in raphy after initially it’s true, but I think Formichetti, who exited Mugler He moved to London in 2003 to 2010 with Womanity. studying fashion de- above all she was in April and joined Diesel as ar- study at Central Saint Martins Mugler quietly resuscitated sign at the Ecole de la OF GALERIE CINÉMA BARRY/COURTESY KATE a genuinely great tistic director. The celebrity and and graduated with a master’s its women’s wear line in 2008, Chambre Syndicale de Kate Barry artist, someone

magazine stylist logged a two- degree in 2009. He launched a tapping Rosemary Rodriguez, la Couture Parisienne. PHOTO BY with a unique tal- year stint at Mugler, leveraging signature fashion house and im- a Mugler alum who had previ- “Her sense of ent, sensibility and his close rapport with Lady Gaga mediately demonstrated a fasci- ously been at Paco Rabanne, as textiles, direction, lighting and vision,” Toussaint said. to generate buzz at the brand. nation with architectural shapes creative director for women’s composition was very picto- “She was very, very sensi- Courtin-Clarins said Koma’s and spectacular embellishments. wear and men’s wear. rial,” Filippetti said. “Her fra- tive and had a lot of empathy arrival marks the first step in The young talent quickly The founder, who goes by the gility touched us.” for fragile and destitute peo- rebranding Mugler, returning earned a following among pop name “Manfred” these days, is Born in London on April 8, ple. But she also had an inner the brand to its roots in women’s stars including Beyoncé, Rihanna, focused on other projects, head- 1967, Barry moved to France at strength,” she added. ready-to-wear. Kylie Minogue and Alicia Keys. lined by his “Mugler Follies” the age of one after her parents Barry, who generally “We agreed that we wanted While he said he’s never ref- revue that opened here this separated. Until the age of 13, shunned the limelight, made a real couturier,” she said in an erenced Mugler collections di- week involving dancers, acro- she was raised by Birkin’s new a rare television appearance exclusive interview. “We feel we rectly, “in general, the anatomic bats, singers, actors, models and partner, French singer and earlier this year alongside her need to focus on the product, approach to pattern-cutting and other performers in an array of songwriter Serge Gainsbourg. mother and two sisters on the and that’s why we’re starting the sculptural nature of the fe- otherworldly costumes and sets. Having struggled early with popular Sunday television pro- with the pre-collection.” male form is one of the key ele- Courtin-Clarins noted he would depression and substance gram “Vivement dimanche.” She said it was too soon to ments with my designs.” remain a consultant. abuse, she became sober Doillon at the time described give projections for the business, Today, he sells his collection Meanwhile, the Mugler per- around the time of the birth of the family as tight-knit and but made it clear that Mugler is to about 55 retailers, including fume business powers ahead, hav- her son Roman de Kermadec in paid homage to Barry’s talent. serious about marketing “wear- Browns Focus in the U.K., Luisa ing grown by more than 50 percent 1987, going on to found a treat- “She is incredibly sensi- able and desirable” clothes, and Via Roma in Italy, Joyce in Hong over the last three years, driven by ment center, Aide et Prévention tive, because she manages to not dabbling in fashion purely Kong, Tsum in Moscow and Ikram sales of Angel and Alien. des Toxico-dépendances par systematically pinpoint what to create an image and fan fra- and H. Lorenzo in the U.S. He Industry sources estimate the l’Entraide, or APTE. is most moving about a person. grance sales. “We are very fo- plans to continue showing his brand overall generates $800 In her late 20s, she turned to It’s true that Kate always suc- cused now on wholesale,” she label during London Fashion million in retail sales annually, photography and would eventu- ceeds in capturing something said. “We have an existing clien- Week and divide his time between with 90 to 95 percent stemming ally work for major magazines that others don’t,” she said. tele, and we are going to grow the that city and the French capital. from fragrance and the rest split including Elle, Vogue, Madame Details of funeral services distribution in a strategic way.” Mugler did not disclose de- between rtw and accessories. Figaro and Paris Match. were not available.

step of the way. Not many compa- nies can say that.” Miansai Opens First Store in SoHo Launched in 2008 while Saiger was still in college, Miansai is today sold in more and four types of Kombucha, The brand’s bracelets and makes us very agile. We can do than 250 wholesale accounts By DAVID LIPKE the latter a mild obsession of jewelry mostly retail for $55 to a run of 10 pieces and test it out in 36 countries, including Saiger’s, who drinks it daily. $250, leather goods for $95 to before we do a larger production Barneys New York, Neiman MIANSAI, the fast-growing acces- Both the tea bar and the cash $195 and watches for $355 to $500. run,” said Saiger. “We do all the Marcus, Mr Porter, Selfridges, sories maker known for its trendy wrap in the rear of the boutique There are also belts, key chains, sampling, molding, fabrication Harvey Nichols, United Arrows rope bracelets, has opened its are fashioned from black wal- iPad and iPhone cases, candles and production ourselves every and Beams. first store in New York. The nar- nut topped with copper. The and leather-bound journals in row 650-square-foot space is glass display cases are also con- the assortments. While most of located at 33 Crosby Street on structed of a base of black wal- the product is unisex, men ac- A look inside the a stretch of SoHo that has be- nut, lending the store a warm, count for about 65 percent of the new Miansai store. come a magnet for directional elegant feel. “I wanted it to feel brand’s customers and women men’s wear retailers including very Scandinavian,” said Saiger, are 35 percent, estimated Saiger. Saturdays Surf, Bonobos, Aether 27. “I wanted it to be homey and A custom bracelet station in and Carson Street Clothiers. inviting. I didn’t want it to feel the boutique allows customers “I’ve always loved Crosby like a jewelry store.” to create their own designs, in Street — it has like-minded The store’s spare, contempo- a multitude of rope and leath- brands and our customers are rary aesthetic includes exposed er strap options and a range here,” said Michael Saiger, brick walls painted white and of hook, anchor or “Brummel” founder and creative director floors tiled in white porcelain clasps, either in brushed brass, of Miansai. “I don’t think I could that is designed to resemble pale silver, gold or rose-gold finishes. have picked a better street.” wooden planks. Instead of an ex- All of the other product is A small cafe area fronts the terior sign, an enormous fishing made in Miansai’s factory in store, but rather than conven- hook hangs above the entrance, a Miami, which employs about 50 tional coffee, the copper-topped monumental version of the signa- craftsmen in an 8,000-square-foot bar offers 20 loose blends of tea ture clasp on Miansai bracelets. space in the Design District. “It WWD FRIDAY, DECEMBER 13, 2013 7 WWD.COM

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AWARDS SEASON is ACTRESS SCIENCES/AP & officially in full swing. Motion Picture, Drama Nominations for the 71st Cate Blanchett, “Blue Jasmine” Annual Golden Globe Awards Sandra Bullock, “Gravity” were revealed Thursday by Emma Thompson, “Saving Mr.

Zoe Saldana, Olivia Wilde Banks” ARTS TELEVISION and Aziz Ansari, setting Judi Dench, “Philomena” OF in motion the intricate Kate Winslet, “Labor Day”

red carpet dance that will ACADEMY continue through the Oscars Motion Picture, Musical or Comedy on March 2. Meryl Streep, “August: Osage There were few surprises, County” save for the omission Julia Louis-Dreyfus, “Enough Said” of “Downton Abbey” or Amy Adams, “American Hustle” eye

“Homeland” from any of the Julie Delpy, “Before Midnight” CHARRIAU/WIREIMAGE

TV categories, but there were Greta Gerwig, “Frances Ha” FOR WILLIAMSON/INVISION plenty of names to dazzle at the TODD IMAGES MCCARTHY/GETTY JAMIE JONES KATIE Jan. 12 show, hosted by Amy SUPPORTING ACTRESS DOMINIQUE BY Poehler and Tina Fey on NBC. Lupita Nyong’o, “12 Years a Slave” Amy Poehler Sofia Vergara Bryan Cranston and Aaron Paul Leonardo DiCaprio BY PHOTO Look to lead movie actress Jennifer Lawrence, “American BY PHOTO PHOTO contenders Cate Blanchett, Hustle” PHOTO BY Amy Adams and Sandra Julia Roberts, “August: Osage Jessica Lange, “American Horror Wall Street” TV Series, Drama Bullock to provide the daring County” Story: Coven” Christian Bale, “American Hustle” Bryan Cranston, “Breaking Bad” and glamour, while J. Law June Squibb, “Nebraska” Helen Mirren,” Phil Spector” Oscar Isaac, “Inside Llewyn Davis” Michael Sheen, “Masters of Sex” and J. Ro (Jennifer Lawrence Sally Hawkins, “Blue Jasmine” Elisabeth Moss, “Top of the Lake” Joaquin Phoenix, “Her” Kevin Spacey, “House of Cards” and Julia Roberts) will battle James Spader, “The Blacklist” it out in the supporting TV Series, Comedy SUPPORTING ACTRESS SUPPORTING ACTOR Liev Schreiber, “Ray Donovan” category. Zooey Deschanel, “The New Girl” Hayden Panettiere, “Nashville” Michael Fassbender, “12 Years a For the small screen Lena Dunham, “Girls” Jacqueline Bisset, “Dancing on the Slave” Mini-Series or TV queens, can an expectant Julia Louis-Dreyfus, “Veep” Edge” Jared Leto, “Dallas FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE Movie Kerry Washington top Zooey Amy Poehler, “Parks and Janet McTeer, “White Queen” Buyers Club” Matt Damon, “Behind Deschanel or Robin Wright’s Recreation” Monica Potter, “Parenthood” Bradley Cooper, WWD.com/eye. the Candelabra” looks? More uncharted Edie Falco, “Nurse Jackie” Sofía Vergara, “Modern Family” “American Hustle” Michael Douglas, territory lies with newcomers Daniel Brühl, “Rush” “Behind the Greta Gerwig, Lupita Nyong’o TV Series, Drama ACTOR Barkhad Abdi, Candelabra” and Taylor Schilling. Julianna Margulies, “The Good Motion Picture, Drama “Captain Phillips” Chiwetel Ejiofor, “Dancing on the Apart from Lawrence and Wife” Chiwetel Ejiofor, “12 Years a Slave” Edge” the house of Dior, most of Kerry Washington, “Scandal” Matthew McConaughey, “Dallas TV Series, Comedy Idris Elba, “Luther” the actresses are free agents Tatiana Maslany, “Orphan Black” Buyers Club” Jason Bateman, “Arrested Al Pacino, “Phil Spector” when it comes to choosing Robin Wright, “House of Cards” Tom Hanks, “Captain Phillips” Development” a designer to wear, which Taylor Schilling, “Orange is the Robert Redford, “All Is Lost” Don Cheadle, “House of Lies” SUPPORTING ACTOR will hopefully result in some New Black” Idris Elba, “Mandela: Long Walk to Michael J. Fox, “The Michael J. Fox Rob Lowe, “Behind the sartorial surprises. The Freedom” Show” Candelabra” actresses have been on the Mini-Series or TV Movie Jim Parsons, “The Big Bang Josh Charles, “The Good Wife” campaign trail for some time; Helena Bonham Carter, “Burton and Motion Picture, Musical or Comedy Theory” Aaron Paul, “Breaking Bad” now it’s the designers turn. Taylor” Bruce Dern, “Nebraska” Andy Samberg, “Brooklyn Corey Stoll, “House of Cards” — MARCY MEDIA Rebecca Ferguson, “White Queen” Leonardo DiCaprio, “The Wolf of Nine-Nine” Jon Voight, “Ray Donovan” Department Stores Outpace Men’s Wearhouse Trading Up

Specialty Retailers in Nov. egories including sportswear, furnishings, By ARNOLD J. KARR shoes and tuxedo rental.” overall specialty store sales numbers. The ceo’s focus was clearly on merchan- By KRISTI ELLIS “I’m not sure that will change THE MEN’S WEARHOUSE Inc. quietly dising. Ewert told his listening audience until young people have an easi- launched a trade-up offensive to fend off that he would not take questions about WASHINGTON — Consumers shop- er time finding jobs,” Yozzo said. Jos. A. Bank Clothiers Inc.’s takeover effort MW’s offer late last month to acquire Jos. ping for the holidays gave a boost to “That accounts for a lot of chal- — and then initiated its own attempt to buy A. Bank for about $1.2 billion and indicated department stores in November, lenges in that sector. They just its archrival. there was “nothing to report at this time” but they appeared to pull back on don’t have the income.” Speaking on the company’s third-quarter about the company’s strategic review of its their purchases from apparel and Department stores are “hold- conference call Thursday morning, Douglas K&G division. accessories stores, the Commerce ing their own,” Yozzo said, point- Ewert, president and chief executive officer He practically gushed, however, in dis- Department’s monthly sales report ing in particular to Macy’s Inc. and of Men’s Wearhouse, detailed how its July ac- cussing merchandising and marketing ini- showed Thursday. Dillard’s, which, he noted, have “be- quisition of the Joseph Abboud name, trade- tiatives that contributed to a 2.6 percent in- Department stores posted a come more competitive price-wise” mark and New Bedford, Mass., factory for crease in comparable-store sales during the seasonally adjusted 0.3 percent in- and have also done well online. $97.5 million has enabled it to begin offering third quarter. crease in sales to $14.5 billion last Yozzo noted that apparel sales custom-made Abboud suits, “Slim-fit products now month, while general merchandise numbers are somewhat skewed replete with U.S. pedigree, represent 43 percent of stores, a category that includes because the government separates for $595 and $695. Abboud is overall retail sales and 47 discounters and department the category of e-commerce sales, MW’s chief creative director. percent of suit sales,” he stores, saw a 0.1 percent increase of which apparel accounts for a “Men’s Wearhouse has 43% said. “Our tuxedo comps in sales to $55.3 billion. significant amount, from brick-and- really only sold about continue to be positive. Our Specialty stores posted a sea- mortar store sales. Nonstore, or e- 100,000 [suits] a year at SHARE OF SALES ATTRIBUTABLE premium Vera Wang tuxe- sonally adjusted 0.2 percent de- commerce, sales for November rose price points above $400 dos have grown to represent cline in sales to $21.2 billion in 2.2 percent, according to the data. out the door,” he told TO SLIM-FIT PRODUCTS. approximately 30 percent of November, following a strong up- In the overall economy, retail analysts on the call. “So our rental business.” wardly revised sales gain of 2.6 sales rose 0.7 percent to $432.3 we see it as a significant MW is in the process of percent in October. billion, driven by “sizable gains” opportunity to gain share in that space making its in-store inventories available to “This was an incredibly strong in autos, electronics, furniture as we not only trade up existing Men’s visitors to its Web site, he pointed out, adding report except for apparel specialty and online sales, said Chris G. Wearhouse customers but attract new cus- that “in the next few months” the company stores,” said Scott Hoyt, director of Christopher Jr., director of consum- tomers to shop with us.” will be able to deliver products to consumers consumer economics at Moody’s er economics at IHS Global Insight. He said that, in just the last three weeks, in more than 100 countries outside the U.S. Analytics. “I think a lot of the weak- “This is good news for retail- the company has delivered suits from the and Canada. ness there in November is probably ers since coming into the holiday New Bedford factory to about 250 of its 658 The company late Wednesday reported a just payback from October, which season, consumer mood turned MW stores and placed custom clothing in 21.8 percent decline in profits for the three had a strong increase.” sour,” said Christopher, noting that 100 of them. months ended Nov. 2 to $38.2 million, or 79 Hoyt said specialty store sales IHS is forecasting a 3.2 percent “The early read is very encouraging,” he cents a share. Stripping out costs of the were up 4.1 percent in November increase in holiday retail sales said. “Throughout the coming spring sea- Joseph Abboud acquisition, earnings per compared with a year earlier, indi- compared with a year earlier and son, we’ll expand the availability of these share were 90 cents, 4 cents higher than the cating some strength in the category. is upping its fourth-quarter real products into all our Men’s Wearhouse and average estimate of Wall Street analysts. John Yozzo, managing director consumer spending growth to 3.2 [Canadian] Moores stores market by mar- Sales rose 2.8 percent to $648.9 million. at FTI Consulting, said weakness in percent from 2.3 percent, based on ket and introduce complementary Joseph The company’s shares Thursday rose 2.9 the teen sector has brought down the the new retail sales data. Abboud style, quality and value in other cat- percent to $51.91. 8 WWD FRIDAY, DECEMBER 13, 2013 beauty Coty Recharges Klein Brand audience, allowing the original juice to By JULIE NAUGHTON be a springboard for its newer sibling. The original Euphoria, launched WITH ENDLESS EUPHORIA, the newest in September 2005, was a major hit for scent from Calvin Klein, Steve Mormoris the house, and its core consumer is now Gucci Guilty Gets Studded is unleashing the opening salvo of an am- aged 35-plus, said Mormoris. Endless bitious plan: refreshing the entire Klein Euphoria, on the other hand, is aimed at advertising campaign will roll out cor- fragrance portfolio, beginning in 2014. women in their late 20s to early 30s. By BELISA SILVA responding with the launch. “The studs “Calvin Klein is a very compelling Concocted by Bruno Jovanovic of are simple and elegant, but [impart] edgi- business and one of our largest business- International Flavors & Fragrances, GUCCI GUILTY, one of P&G Prestige’s ness, provocation and seduction.” es,” said Mormoris, who is senior vice the juice opens with top notes of cherry best-selling scent franchises is getting Although P&G would not disclose president of global marketing, American blossom, mandarin and bergamot; it has texturized, for a limited time. sales figures, industry sources believe Fragrances, for Coty Prestige. “Offerings a heart of violet, pastel rose accord and Covered in more than 400 metal- the studded editions of Gucci Guilty like Endless Euphoria, which an- syringa, and a drydown of bamboo, lic studs and priced 5 percent higher could generate between $90 million and chors to the huge Euphoria busi- sandalwood and bare musk accord. the original Guilty scent, Gucci Guilty $100 million globally in their first year ness but also draws in younger Eaux de parfum in three sizes Stud Limited Edition, a his and hers at retail. This figure would include not consumers and consumers in — 1.4 oz. for $49, 2.5 oz. for $69 and duo that was previewed on Dec. 1 ex- only sales of the limited-edition bottles, countries which are not huge fra- 4.2 oz. for $89 — will be offered, clusively at Harrods in London grance consumers now, will en- as will a 6.7-oz. body lotion in two and Takashimaya in Singapore, sure that the brand continues to sizes for $38 and a shower gel, 5 will roll out globally to 20,000 The limited-edition bottles. be successful. oz. for $30. The fragrance bottle is doors in February. The limited- “Calvin Klein will be reju- similar to its sibling, although it edition offering is meant to re- venated as an iconic fra- is a slightly taller version and inforce the portfolio and boost grance brand by tapping does not have the metal sales across all Guilty scents, into its roots with po- surrounding the bottle. according to Luigi Feola, vice litically disruptive, The juice is tinted a president, global luxury brands sexually provoca- pale peach and the for P&G Prestige. tive messages and cap is rose gold. “It’s pretty much a global fragrances, housed The ads are phenomenon for us,” said Feola in a modern archi- aimed younger, of the takeaway success of the tectural simplic- as well. While Guilty range, which includes ity in terms of Euphoria’s TV ad Gucci by Gucci pillar, Flora and bottle and carton was sexy, Endless Guilty. “Gucci Stud is more of design that reso- Euphoria’s has what we look at as a collector’s nates luxury,” con- more of a sweet bent. item. It is meant to drive focus tinued Mormoris. “In Endless Euphoria Both feature Vanessa on the entire franchise, pro- addition to Endless Axente, who is the face mote the entire line and give Euphoria, we are looking at continuing of the fashion house’s fall apparel adver- something meaningful to retail- to build the Eternity brand as an eter- tising. “We find and nurture talent,” said ers and consumers.” nally meaningful idea of enduring in- Costa of his strategy of using the same While no sales numbers timacy and romance. We are looking at model across the Calvin Klein brand were available, industry sourc- building Euphoria around the idea of universe. Past models have included es estimate that Gucci Guilty explosive, imagination-driven sensual- Natalia Vodianova and Lara Stone. “In and its flankers, Gucci Guilty ity. We believe the CK One brand will nurturing that talent, it’s natural to Black and Gucci Guilty Intense, continue to break ground and become do multiple categories with a specific have sold more than 20 million relevant again with new, younger con- person to evoke brand recognition.” Of units since the first Guilty itera- sumers entering the market — including Axente, Costa noted that her playful yet tion was introduced in 2010. Asians, Latin Americans and Indians — sexy beauty made her a match for the According to The NPD all key emerging markets. In a digitally company. “She really translates the sexy, Group, Gucci Guilty Black Pour connected world, CK One has more rel- romantic vibe,” said Costa. Homme was the number-one evance than ever.” Fabien Baron of Baron & Baron prestige fragrance launch in Retaining strong brand relevance is served as creative director for both the 2013, while the women’s version a goal Mormoris shares with the house’s TV campaign and print ads, and Steven was the number-three launch for the which retail for $80 for the women’s 1.6- designer, Francisco Costa. “Fragrance Meisel shot the print ads. In the U.S., year. “There’s a sexiness to Gucci and oz. eau de parfum and $88 for the men’s is a huge part of our business, and print ads will break in March fashion, it really resonated with both genders,” 3-oz. eau de toilette, but also the overall Euphoria in particular has enjoyed great beauty and lifestyle magazines. As NPD’s vice president and global beau- impact on the existing Guilty business, success,” said Costa. “Now we want to well, the launch will get a boost from ty industry analyst, Karen Grant, told which is estimated at $500 million. grow it even more and this will do that Coty in the form of the brand’s partner- WWD in the spring. “With activities like a limited edition, with a new approach into the essence of ship with the Independent Filmmaker The concept behind the first Guilty we tried to bring it back to the focus in- the brand. This is intended to draw in Project; the two offer a $25,000 grant to offering, Gucci Guilty for her, which was store to attract more consumers and get a younger, more playful audience and female filmmakers, which is presented positioned for a young, social-network- them to trade up to [a] more luxury of- allow them to grow with the brand.” annually at the Gotham Independent ing consumer, was centered on sex ap- fering in terms of fragrance choice,” said Costa noted that Endless Euphoria Film Awards.

peal and digital connectivity. Feola, adding that since P&G acquired targets a younger audience. “Its position- Endless Euphoria will be sold in JOHN AQUINO The corresponding ad campaign, which the Gucci license in 2006, the Gucci fra- ing is very playful, youthful and sexy.” about 3,800 department and specialty executives had revealed was substantially grance business has more than tripled. Mormoris added that the origi- store doors in the U.S., said Mormoris. more funded than other launches due to “It has been a great success story. We nal Euphoria has a strong following While Costa and Mormoris declined its interactive nature, featured risqué im- continue to grow between two and three globally, including among fragrance- to discuss projected first-year sales for agery and a focus on social media. times the industry rate on overall Gucci averse Asian customers. With Endless Endless Euphoria, industry sources esti- “The concept from Frida [Giannini] franchise,” he said. “Maybe there is Euphoria, which will begin rolling out mated that it could do as much as $50 mil- was indulgence into guilty pleasures and room later on for another pillar but we globally in February, he said he be- lion at retail globally. Sources also esti- now we want to continue to play into that are now focusing on these. It is our in- lieves the “lighter, fresher” juice will mated that Coty would spend $25 million territory,” said Feola, adding that a new tent to sustain and support them.” have widespread appeal to a youthful on advertising and promotion globally. KLEIN PHOTOS BY GUCCI AND CALVIN Versace Oud Scent to Focus on Middle East

fragrance, “I am particularly satisfied with the fragrance. In May, the edp will reach By CYNTHIA MARTENS the European interest that we received, the Middle East, where it will be available which surpassed our expectations.” at retailers such as Paris Gallery, Sephora MILAN — Versace and Euroitalia are He would not discuss sales figures, but and Areej, among many. tapping into the oud trend, with a niche industry sources suggest the new women’s Top notes include oriental rose, freesia women’s eau de parfum that hits shelves oud — on the shelf in 500 doors when roll- and saffron, while the heart of the fragrance in Italy this month and internationally out is complete — could bring in $10 mil- is composed of heliotrope, Indonesian pa- throughout the first half of 2014. Versace lion in retail sales in its first year. tchouli and velvety violet. The drydown con- Pour Femme Oud Oriental will be avail- Versace Pour Femme Oud Oriental tains a leather oud accord, sandalwood and able at a highly select number of retailers, will be available in a single 100-ml. ver- vanilla. “I wanted to create something very with a special focus on the Middle East. sion, priced in Europe for 150 euros, or strong and seductive,” said Versace creative Earlier this year, Euroitalia introduced approximately $206 at current exchange. director Donatella Versace. Versace Pour Homme Oud Oriental to a In addition to Versace boutiques through- The packaging features a lustrous box similarly restricted retail network. out the EU, in Italy the eau de parfum will bordered with the Greek key motif and Euroitalia president Giovanni be sold at La Rinascente in Milan and a glass bottle with a gold cap and gold Sgariboldi said the ouds were a response Florence and Mazzolari in Milan. Harrods Medusa at the center. Advertising images The oud to a global enthusiasm for richer, woodier in London has a February exclusive, and shot by Giovanni Gastel featuring the men’s scents. fragrances, and that while sales results in Galeries Lafayette in Paris, as well as and women’s scents together will be used the Middle East were strong for the men’s Gum and Tsum in Moscow, will also sell to promote the fragrances starting in 2014. WWD FRIDAY, DECEMBER 13, 2013 9 WWD.COM Wexner Reflects on His Legacy Physicians Formula Adds Zip {Continued from page one} Yoshiharu Fukuhara, the honorary chair- “The creative execution, in terms of and everybody knows the world is going man of Shiseido Co. Ltd. By MOLLY PRIOR photography, is an upgrade from what to change....I began thinking that fashion “When I thought about going into the we’ve had before,” said Jackel. “The visu- apparel wasn’t going to be as important beauty business, and about who I could PHYSICIANS FORMULA, known for its als look extremely upscale, so we includ- in the future as it had been in the past, in talk to and learn from, I made a short problem-solution approach to beauty, ed the price points so that the consumer terms of defining peoples’ personalities.” list and at the top of the list was Leonard plans to enter 2014 with a more glamor- knows where to find the brand. [The ads] He later noted, “Everybody wants to Lauder,” Wexner told the crowd, which ous and youthful spirit. beautifully convey health and glamour.” make things in the same place, from the included the beauty executive. Wexner The brand, which was purchased On the new product front, Physicians same fabrics....I have one son in college recalled how generous Lauder had been by Markwins International Corp. for Formula is adding to its assortment with and three kids in high school and they in showing him what makes the industry roughly $75 million a year ago, will a bevy products across the multifunc- are more concerned about what elec- tick. As he told Beauty Inc with a laugh, roll out a new tag line, Rx for Glamour, tional and cosmeceuticals segments. tronic device they have to express their “I thought we were dating.” along with a robust product offering. New lines for 2014, include Super personality than what clothes they wear.” Next on Wexner’s list was Owen- Ingrid Jackel, Physicians Formula’s CC+ Color-Correction face items and Wexner said his inspiration for deter- Jones, who served as L’Oréal’s ceo for chief executive officer, said the position- Nude Wear powder, blush and bronzer. mining what’s next comes from shoppers. nearly two decades. Wexner recalled that ing does not signal a change in direction, These follow Sexy Booster eye products “Just watching customers, I think I can Owen-Jones dropped “pearls” of wisdom but more loudly touts its point of differ- and Youthful Wear face items, which in English interspersed between long ence in the mass market. “We are just were first introduced this year and will spurts of French commands directed at putting the brand on steroids,” she said. be expanded in 2014. Leonard A. Lauder with employees while zipping around Paris in Some of the Abigail and Leslie H. Wexner. the back of his BMW limo. standout prod- He then wrote to Fukuhara in Japan, Select 2014 Physicians Formula launches. ucts slated for and the two developed a friendship that March include included visits back and forth. Bronze Booster “I would not be here today without Glow-Boosting them,” said Wexner. But he again gently BB Cream SPF reminded the crowd of his outsider sta- 20, billed as the tus, saying, “I take great pride from being first mass mar- a winner from Ohio, a different part of ket glow-and- the world completely.” bronzer boost- Wexner has worked to encourage ing BB Cream, a strong sense of philanthropy across Powder Palette his corporation. Multi-Colored “Our company tries to do good while it Custom Blush in does well,” he said, adding that the firm’s shades tailored employees personally apply that mission for blondes and across various community efforts. brunettes, and For instance, over the last 15 years or Sexy Booster see and sense what they’re interested in so, the company has raised nearly $120 “Va Va Voom” and then bring that back to the store.” million across the organization for the Volume Mascara. Wexner — who on occasion has lobbed United Way and donated one million Jackel con- zingers about industry competitors, par- hours of service to various causes. tinues to remain ticularly at department stores, which Over the last five years, the company Advertising is getting juice too. Jackel close to the product development. “I’m he recently described as “irrelevant” has helped raise approximately $20 million said the company will support the new tag very protective of that process,” she said. — struck a humble and warm tone on for the James Cancer Hospital in Columbus, line and products by increasing its adver- “The growth that we’ve been able Wednesday at the awards ceremony. He and each year it amasses the largest team tising budget by a whopping 400 percent to demonstrate has helped us to find recalled that when he began venturing — some 11,000 people — for the Susan G. across print and digital. Based on its 2011 space for all these new innovations,” into beauty territory, he found inspira- Komen Race for the Cure, he added. advertising spending of $11.8 million, said Jackel. “We are outpacing the tion and a graciousness from the in- “If there is a vision that I am proud of, Physicians Formula’s amped up budget category,” she declared, noting that dustry’s most formidable titans, each of it’s clearly this achievement, but most of it translates to an estimated $59 million. the brand’s sales gained about 3 per- whom are fellow Visionary award recipi- rests in the power and respect and quality Taking a page from apparel retailer cent over the last week period, citing ents. They include Leonard A. Lauder, of the enterprise,” said Wexner. “I wouldn’t H&M, Physicians Formula’s upcoming Nielsen data, while cosmetics category chairman emeritus of the Estée Lauder be here today, but for that I am represent- ad visuals feature slick photography of sales ticked up 1 percent. Cos. Inc.; L’Oréal’s former honorary ing and have the privilege of working with a model and a product and include the Jackel said, “We are a significant chairman Sir Lindsay Owen-Jones, and literally the best people in the world.” item’s price point. force to be reckoned with.”

WWD BEAUTY INC. AWARDS WINNERS Power and Glamour Lead Beauty Inc Awards PRODUCT OF THE YEAR, MASS: CoverGirl Clump Crusher by Lashblast Mascara By JAYME CYK (color cosmetics), L’Oréal Paris Age Perfect Glow Renewal Facial Oil (skin), GLOWING AND full of energy, a pregnant Infiniti Pro by Conair Curl Secret (hair), Drew Barrymore came to the 12th an- Sonia Kashuk Bath & Body (fragrance). nual WWD Beauty Inc Awards breakfast PRODUCT OF THE YEAR, PRESTIGE: Wednesday at the Four Seasons in New Giorgio Armani Rouge Ecstasy CC Lipstick York City with her husband in tow, ready (color cosmetics), Ibuki by Shiseido (skin), to celebrate two exciting announcements: Color Wow Root Cover Up (hair), her award for color cosmetics brand Modern Muse by Estée Lauder (fragrance). Flower and the gender of her baby girl, BRAND OF THE YEAR: NYX Cosmetics (mass), which was revealed post-event. Chanel (prestige). “Work harder,” said Barrymore when asked what winning the award meant NEWCOMER OF THE YEAR: Flower (mass), to her. “This means something incred- Ardency Inn (prestige). ibly positive along the way. You’re never RETAILER OF THE YEAR: Shoppers Drug Mart done, but to think that you’re doing (mass), Macy’s Herald Square (prestige), something positive and moving in the Barneys New York (specialty). right direction is everything to make you work harder.” LAUNCH OF THE YEAR: L’Oréal Paris Another star this morning was Leslie Advanced Haircare (mass), Marc Jacobs H. Wexner, founder, chairman and chief Beauty (prestige). executive officer of L Brands Inc., who AD CAMPAIGN OF THE YEAR: was honored with the Visionary Award. Dove Real Beauty Sketches. “Being biggest doesn’t mean best,” MARKETER OF THE YEAR: Carolyn Holba, said Wexner when reciting his accep- senior vice president, marketing, Maybelline tance speech. All the winners. New York-Garnier-Essie (mass); Veronique In a room packed with beauty’s key Gabai-Pinsky, global brand president, power players, among the attendees Aramis and Designer Fragrances (prestige). were Leonard A. Lauder, chairman and Jane Hertzmark Hudis, global brand There also was a contingent of retail- emeritus of the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc.; president of the Estée Lauder Cos. ers, including Muriel Gonzalez, executive CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY AWARD: Frédéric Rozé, president and ceo of Also in attendance were Stefan vice president and general merchandise Coty Inc. L’Oréal USA; John Demsey, group presi- Selig, executive vice chairman of global manager for cosmetics and fragrances at DIGITAL INNOVATOR OF THE YEAR: dent of the Estée Lauder Cos.; Karen corporate and investment banking at Macy’s; Bettina O’Neill, vice president Dermablend Professional, Fondu, president of L’Oréal Paris; Carol Bank of America; Julia Goldin, glob- and merchandise manager at Barneys EM Michelle Phan (prestige) Hamilton, president of L’Oréal Luxe al chief marketing officer of Revlon; New York; Cathy Masson, vice president USA; Michele Scannavini, ceo of Coty David Neville of Rag & Bone, husband of category management beat at Shoppers CREATIVE INFLUENCER OF THE YEAR: JOHN AQUINO Inc.; Heidi Manheimer, ceo of Shiseido of Gucci Westman, and Arie Kopelman, Drug Mart, and Pat Dean, senior vice Gucci Westman America; David Greenberg, president retired president and chief operating president of category management and VISIONARY AWARD: Leslie H. Wexner

PHOTOS BY of Maybelline New York-Garnier-Essie, officer of Chanel Inc. corporate brands at Shoppers Drug Mart. 10 WWD FRIDAY, DECEMBER 13, 2013

early and lasting, philanthropic “I always think of this work on behalf of AIDS dinner as a magical web that patients, a cause her daughter connects all the strands of my has continued to support. life, journalism and media, Divas for a Cause “People have a tendency arts and fashion, and of course, to get very lax. I think it’s anyone who has anything with THE HOLIDAY dinner ACRIA A worldly group of people regal in an elaborate gown, important to keep it all going ACRIA,” she said. It had been does every year, always tastefully that isn’t fazed by much was in rose to deliver remarks, one and hopefully find a cure,” just less than a month since arranged, always observed by attendance Wednesday night at could hear a pin drop. Table Elizabeth Peabody said. Nelson, who was hard to reach an influential crowd, is a rite of the Urban Zen Foundation in conversations stopped, forks Norman and the Peabodys as she was besieged by well- passage that perhaps long ago Manhattan — Calvin Klein, Kelly went down and the room was have been friends for wishers, including Calvin Klein stopped surprising. It doesn’t Klein, Donna Karan, Sam Peabody still, silenced by the privilege many years, Peabody said, and Karan, left Time. Was she have to. People attend because and his daughter Elizabeth, of an audience with the diva. first as fans of the singer’s enjoying her time off? it’s for a worthy cause, AIDS Bernadette Peters, Sheila Johnson, Norman was paying tribute performances and later “I certainly hope so. I’m research, and because many of Darren Starr and Francisco Costa. to the late Judith Peabody developing a close friendship. enjoying mine,” Klein offered. their friends are involved. But when Jessye Norman, and she talked like....this... “She and I are like sisters. The dinner has become such She’s a great spiritual force as an important ritual that it draws well as an enormous talent,” heavyweights from all sorts of Bruce Weber and Peabody said of the singer. industries and trades. Walking Donna Karan There were other honorees among the very dignified and besides Peabody Wednesday — stately crowd was Michael Lucas, Martha Nelson, the former Time the adult film kingpin. Inc. editor in chief, and the “I’m here to support the artists Rob Pruitt and Jonathan cause. It’s my third time. Horowitz, and they all had to I love what they do and I contend with that unique love the art,” Lucas said challenge familiar to opera in his Russian-accented singers the world over. English. “I’ve bought a “We were sitting at couple of beautiful pornos our table when Jessye in the past.” Pornos? Norman was speaking “Photos,” he clarified. and I was thinking, “Photographs. I can Francisco ‘We did something get porn for free.” Costa very bad in a past life Lucas fancies himself that we had to follow a collector. Last year at the dinner he enunciating...each...word. It left FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE bought a portrait of a Jessye the room hanging on her every frail Elizabeth Taylor Norman turn of phrase as if she were WWD.com/eye. in St. Tropez. still on an opera stage, one “Probably my towering grand dame tipping favorite photograph her hat to another. Jessye Norman,’” that I have is by “Our Judy made sure to Nelson said. She Richard Avedon,” leave a mark on this world of became involved he said. “It’s a photo ours so that we would know with the organization of Rudolf Nureyev and generations to come would 20 years ago when absolutely naked, one know that Judith Dunnington she was editor of of 10. That was a very Peabody walked this earth and InStyle, which, good buy. I bought it for left the imprint of a caring, following tradition, $12,000 and one of them a sensitive, noble woman. again presented just sold for $78,000.” A caring. Sensitive. Noble. the dinner and the Sofia Shortly after speaking, Judith,” Norman said. accompanying silent Lucas headed for his

STEVE EICHNER Sanchez Calvin Klein and Peabody, who died in auction, which featured Barrenechea table. It was time for Kelly Klein 2010, was a socialite who was works by Ed Ruscha and Norman to take the — ERIK MAZA

PHOTOS BY revered for her, uncommonly Robert Mapplethorpe. stage.

“This is amazing, the store’s beautiful,” Tommy Hilfiger said, standing by a vitrine teeming Feting Dennis with dazzling jewels as wife Dee took a gander. “Dennis is a “IT’S BEEN an amazing “I feel like my journey great, great friend so we’re very journey to get here, a natural has just begun,” he bellowed happy for him,” he added. progression,” Dennis Basso over Estelle’s “American Boy” Up on the second floor, Hoda beamed on Tuesday night. thumping through the store. Kotb held court with a trio of The designer was idling by the “Most people who’ve been friends and nursed a flute of entrance of his new Madison in business for 30 years are Champagne. Behind her, Olivia Avenue flagship in Manhattan wrapping up and I look to people Palermo stroked a sable coat. — a massive 10,500-square-foot, like the great Mr. Valentino or Nearby, Brooke Shields four-story space, the opening the great Mr. de la Renta, they’re explained her affection for of which was being feted for talented and flourishing and I Basso. “More is more for Dennis, the evening. A gaggle of loyal want to follow in their footsteps.” that’s why I love him,” she said, clients — Katie Couric, Debra The space is sleek and linear, her eyes wandering over to a Messing, Jennifer Creel, Lizzie Tisch, with surfaces primarily within rack. Perhaps the actress was Gillian Miniter, Debbie Bancroft, a muted palette of slate, black going to pick up some Christmas Nina Griscom and Jamie Tisch and bone — a happy contrast gifts while she was there? “If among them — blew in from the to the lush fur and glimmering I’m going to buy for anybody,” A look at the Dennis Basso evening cold to congratulate and floor-sweeping eveningwear she laughed, “It’s going to be for Madison Avenue store. double-kiss the designer. dangling from the racks. myself.” — TAYLOR HARRIS

Dennis Basso and Brooke Katie Couric Debra Messing Shields

FALK EVAN eye PHOTOS BY 2.5x7 (right)

WWD friday, december 13, 2013 11 WWD.COM Fashion scoops Cole Talks Peanuts at 92Y NEW YORK — Before Tuesday’s As for whether he ever worries about screening of “The Battle for amfAR” how his political views (which some- ABOVE AND BEYOND: Moncler, which remaining interest is owned by the two and a discussion about his AIDS ac- times appear in his brand’s advertis- closed its road show on Wednesday, founders, Rachel Roy and Damon Dash, as tivism with Simon Doonan and Alan ing) could affect sales, Cole said, “I said Thursday retail investors’ share well as TSM Capital, which acquired a Cumming, Kenneth Cole recapped his know I’ve gone places, and done things requests exceeded 14 times the number minority stake in the business in 2007. career with Fern Mallis at 92Y. and said things that most wise people of shares offered to the public in Italy. Suzanne Karkus, president of Rachel Recalling his first job at the age of 16 wouldn’t. And most of it is almost coun- With the shares priced at 10.20 euros Roy, said: “We don’t comment on selling peanuts at Shea Stadium, the de- ter intuitive. But I’ve always felt a need each, or $14.07 at current exchange, corporate rumors.” She said that her signer said, “I learned that there is a di- to speak to what’s on people’s minds the total net proceeds from the offering team is “completely engaged and focused rect correlation between how hard you and connect with them in as relevant a is 989 million euros, or $1.36 billion. on driving the businesses,” which work and how much you make. I was in- way as I know how.” Moncler’s first day of trading is set for include Rachel Roy and Rachel Rachel cessantly distracted, because I had two Monday on the Milan Stock Exchange. Roy, an exclusive contemporary line for objectives [watching baseball and mak- Kenneth — ALESSANDRA TURRA Macy’s. Karkus joined in May and hired ing money]. But I sold a lot of peanuts Cole a new creative director. She expects to and today I work for peanuts.” LUCKY CHIEF: Former Guess Inc. debut “an enhanced line” in February. A few years later during what he executive Carlos Alberini is coming back Roy, who was on the West Coast, would thought would be a pit stop on his to fashion, as chairman and chief only say through her spokeswoman: “It’s way to law school, Cole worked in executive officer of Lucky Brand. just a rumor.” his father’s shoe factory in what was Alberini resigned his post as co-ceo Mortimer Singer, president and then a very rough part of Brooklyn — at Restoration Hardware chief executive officer of “Williamsburg.” Hooked on business, Holdings Inc. effective Jan. For more Marvin Traub Associates, and he ditched the law school route and 31 to lead Lucky, which Fifth scoops, see a partner in TSM Capital, worked at Candie’s, the family business, & Pacific Cos. Inc. agreed declined comment, as did a before starting his own company in to sell to Leonard Green & WWD.com spokeswoman for Jones. 1982. When Mallis noted Candie’s was Partners this week. Alberini — LISA LOCKwOOD known for its high wooden-sole shoes, will take the reins from David Cole added, “Amongst other things, it DeMattei. Chief creative officer Patrick NEw HERMÈS NOSE: Christine Nagel had a few nicknames.” As for whether Wade is also leaving the company, will join Hermès International as a he and his brothers Evan and Neil (who although both executives will stay at the perfumer in March to work alongside now runs the Iconix Brand Group) were brand through the closing of the deal. its in-house perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena, competitive, Cole said, “Only when we — EVAN CLARK a company spokeswoman confirmed. were awake.” The challenge is to grab people’s Most recently, Nagel has been the fine Cole’s wife Maria Cuomo Cole was in attention. Cole said, “Today ADD is RACHEL ROY’S FUTURE: Could Rachel fragrance director at Mane, creating the crowd, as was her mother Matilda. something we all live with and it’s not a Roy be trying to buy back her company such scents as Sì by Giorgio Armani, Truth be told, the reviews that matter medical condition. It’s socially imposed. from Jones Apparel Group, which is Elle L’Aime by Lolita Lempicka, Flash the most to him are those of his wife It starts with social media and all this getting close to being sold? Jones owns by Jimmy Choo and Rosa de Tous. and his three daughters, Cole said. Nor innovation we have in our lives. If you 50 percent of Roy’s business, and the — JENNIFER wEIL was he impressed with People maga- look at these kids, if they’re not speak- zine naming him Sexiest Businessman ing with five people at the same time of the Year in 1998. Unlike his brother- online, they’re bored,” he said. ping search aggregate Web site, which in-law Andrew Cuomo, who landed on “The goal is how can you say some- will first air on the finale of “The Voice” this year’s Sexiest list, Cole said he thing with the least amount of words.” MeMo pad on Monday at 8 p.m. Print ads roll out didn’t feel the need to talk about it. — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG thereafter in People, WWD and US Weekly. — RACHEL STRUGATZ

SMITH ON THE SMALL SCREEN: The BBC’s “Culture Show” gets up close with Sir Paul Smith — and his myriad sources of inspiration — in a TV program that airs Friday and Saturday on BBC World News. The show comes on the heels of the opening of an exhibition focus- ing on Smith and his work at London’s Design Museum. In the show, the BBC’s creative di- small space rector Alan Yentob quizzes Smith about how he’s built his $650 million global business while still hanging onto the playfulness that’s such a big part of his brand. “I think I’m between Savile Row and Mr. Bean, that completely sums it up,” says Smith, referring to the goofy character created by Rowan Atkinson. By way of demonstration, Smith turns to the camera to play a plastic device that simulates applause, just one of the many quirky trinkets piled into his curi- osity shop of an office. The designer also discusses his early ambitions to be a professional cyclist — a career cut short by an accident that left him in the hospital for three months — and how meeting his wife Big Miranda Kerr for ShopStyle. Pauline Denyer set him on the path to de- sign. “She’s totally responsible for me POPSUGAR SIGNS MIRANDA KERR: being here talking to you,” says Smith. Popsugar Inc.-owned ShopStyle has “She taught me about the importance tapped Miranda Kerr to appear in its of quality, the way clothes are built, the first print, T V, digital and out of home way clothes are made.” Business advertisements. This is the second leg The BBC also seeks to demonstrate of a $25 million ad strategy that kicked that Smith was ahead of his time with off Nov. 4 with the new tag line “We regard to his in-store merchandising Search, We Find, We ShopStyle.” by, for example, stocking Filofaxes and WWD Marketplace is the premier destination “She represents our brand perfectly. Dyson vacuum cleaners when they were She has a gentle balance of being both novelties. for the industry’s classified and career listings. the girl next door, or friend, and a The interviews with Yentob are great level of sexiness,” Brian Sugar, spliced with footage of Smith shooting cofounder and chief executive officer one of his ad campaigns, hosting a book of Popsugar, said of selecting Kerr for signing, and surveying his exhibition, the brand’s first traditional advertis- “Hello My Name is Paul Smith,” at the ing campaign. Kerr has signed a two- Design Museum. 800.423.3314 year contract). Yentob says Smith hasn’t lost his Sugar added that 2014’s ad budget “childlike enthusiasm” for his métier. will increase to $50 million. Terry “Every day [I’m having fun], every day wwd.com/marketplace Richardson shot the print ad and Peter is a new beginning,” says the designer. Glanz directed the TV ads for the shop- — NINA JONES

w13a011a;9.indd 11 12/12/13 7:22 PM 12122013192412 12 WWD friday, december 13, 2013 WWD.COM Reinventing Malls, Deals Drive ICSC {Continued from page one} An aerial view of Ponce City Market. Jamestown’s Westside snatching up prime real estate in Provisions District Manhattan and taking a long-term view of in Atlanta. the market. Traditional shopping-center developers also are investing in big cities now. Faced with a consolidating market, General Growth Properties has been buy- ing buildings in New York, on Lafayette Street, and Chicago, on Michigan Avenue. In major cities throughout the U.S., other developers are buying contiguous build- ings, retooling properties formerly used for manufacturing and other industries and pioneering neighborhoods off the beaten path. Jamestown Properties created a shopping district in West Berkeley, Calif., an area with industrial roots. “In Atlanta, we created a home to incubate brands,” said Michael Phillips, chief operating officer of Jamestown. Ponce City Market, an adaptive reuse develop- ment, will consist of more than 1 million square feet of retail, office and residen- a high degree of optimism. Sales have locating to enclaves such as Madison include Helmut Lang, which “has a big tial space in Atlanta’s Old Fourth Ward generally been quite good for a lot of Avenue between 57th and 72nd Streets, push to reach a broader market,” ac- district. “Streets are enjoying impor- brands. Housing prices in many places and East 57th Street between Fifth and cording to RFK’s Joshua Strauss. Iro, tance in people’s lives,” Phillips said. are stronger and people’s sense of opti- Madison Avenues. They are being spurred an advanced contemporary retailer “Post-Lehman Bros. and the downturn, mism [has improved]. The West Coast and in part by favorable exchange rates. “They based in Paris, is “doing a big U.S. push,” people want more than just a transac- this area [New York metro] have been [foreign retailers] are operating at a cur- Strauss said. “Iro opened a flagship on tion. They want art shows, music and very strong due to lifting house prices. rency that gives them about a 30 percent Mercer Street and Broome Street six good design and architecture.” “Our vision of what historically has discount in this market,” said Jeffrey C. months ago. It’s doing phenomenally Developers are using every square been called a mall in the U.S. is more Paisner, a partner in Ripco Real Estate well.” Wink, a New York-based brand, is inch of space in Manhattan, wheth- like a town center with a variety of uses,” Corp. “There’s an inverse relationship looking for stores in key markets across er landlocked or floating. Young Woo Miles added. “They become not just a between the euro and the dollar.” Some the country. Also seeking space is Club & Associates’ Pier 57, known as the place for acquiring, but broader places to U.S. tenants are looking to malls to gener- Monaco, which opened in October a SuperPier, near the West Side Highway, visit. There’s a growing trend toward the ate revenue, he said. “They’re much more 20,000-square-foot store in the Flatiron landed its first retail tenant, Opening dining and sociable aspects of shopping.” economical. The operating costs of street District replete with Toby’s Estate Coffee Ceremony. The Howard Hughes Corp. is Miles said “a lot of European brands stores are very difficult to sustain profit- and Strand bookstore outposts. Free making a bid to revive the South Street have been looking at Westfield World ability. Most of the space is being filled up People and Urban Outfitters, the growth Seaport, and Hudson Yards reportedly Trade Center,” one of the jewels in the by foreign demand.” catalysts for Urban Outfitters Inc., may has a commitment from its first retail company’s portfolio. It recently acquired Brokerage firms are opening over- spawn other concepts. Urban Outfitters tenant, Fairway. “This is an island and the remaining 50 percent of the retail seas outposts to serve the growing trend. ceo Richard Hayne explicitly expressed you can’t make it any bigger,” said Lisa premises from the Port Authority of New Thor High Street Advisors unveiled an his desire to make acquisitions during Rosenthal, a broker at Lansco. “What York and New Jersey for $800 million. “A office in London to bring foreign retail- the company’s third-quarter earnings seems hard to get to today, in a few years number of other retailers are looking to ers to the U.S. and plant American stores call last month. will seem very much connected.” establish a flagship presence. We see it overseas. Robert K. Futterman recently Shopping centers have apparently While there’s a dearth of land for as our job to curate a great mix of retail- opened a London office through a ven- made peace with the Internet. Those new malls in top U.S. markets, Taubman ers [about 150] to attract residents, office ture with CWM Retail Property Advisors that initially saw e-commerce and digital said his company has plans to build four workers and travelers.” He said “talks and is expanding into Canada with head- commerce as a threat are now embrac- shopping centers in Hawaii, downtown are well along with retailers,” but de- quarters in Toronto. ing the platforms. “In 2008, we put social Miami, San Juan and Sarasota, Fla. clined to elaborate. Futterman is bullish on the NoMad media on our Web sites,” said Corsi. “We “We’re the only one” doing new construc- Strong demand and competition for district of Manhattan, north of Madison integrated that with e-mail and linked in tion, he said. “It’s a positive sign.” space in Manhattan’s most popular re- Avenue in the Twenties. “It’s almost our retailers. We’re big into omnichan- “The worst is behind us,” said tail corridors has pushed rents to new Herald Square South,” he said. “It’s nel. Retailers appreciate that we’ve em- Benjamin Fox, executive vice president levels. Fifth Avenue between 49th and one of the next hot neighborhoods.” braced it. We’re finding that this digital of retail leasing at Massey Knakal Realty 59th Streets saw average asking rents rise Futterman also likes Hudson Square, technology blurs the lease line.” Forest Services, referring to the economy. “The 18 percent over the last year to $3,170 a the Bowery, and a new project that’s City’s shopping centers are all Wi-Fi op- New York conference acts as a strong square foot for the ground floor, accord- part of the Seward Park Urban Renewal timized, he said. “We’re using mapping bellwether for industry growth in the ing to the Real Estate Board of New Area, the largest stretch of undeveloped intelligence to track the cross shopping year to come,” said Michael P. Kercheval, York’s fall survey. On the prime stretch of city-owned land in Manhattan below patterns of our customers.” president and chief executive officer of Madison Avenue between 57th and 72nd 96th Street. SPURA will become a mix “Online shopping was a threat, now ICSC. “When the conference sees an in- Streets, asking rents climbed to $1,380 a of housing, open space, a rooftop urban it’s a complement to brick and mortar,” crease in attendance the industry grows square foot, a 42 percent leap over fall farm, facilities for the community, an Miles said. “We see technology and digi- the following year, if attendance con- 2012, and Broadway and Seventh Avenue Andy Warhol museum and a retail com- tal as key. Customers want to do a cer- tracts, so does the industry.” between 42nd and 47th Streets has asking ponent called Essex Street Crossing. tain amount of searching before they “The industry is healthy,” said rents averaging $2,175 a square foot, an 18 Brokers said few new retail concepts leave home. They’re interested in know- Greg Miles, chief operating officer of percent jump over the year-ago period. have emerged, especially in apparel. ing that the product they want is going Australian developer Westfield. “There’s An influx of foreign retailers has been Brands with a mandate for expansion to be available.” Van Cleef & Arpels Unveils Larger 5th Ave. Space

NEW YORK — “Any excuse to dress up in Maybe she could ask for it as a made of 744 pieces of curved and bev- diamonds, I’m there,” Blake Lively said. Christmas present? “They don’t even eled glass — the number of the store’s The actress, along with Dita Von need to give me the whole piece,” she address — are the focal point of the Teese, Genevieve Jones, Julie Macklowe, said, showcasing some bargaining skills. room, which will be used to entertain Jennifer Creel and Chiu-Ti Jansen, “Just give me a toothpick and I’ll pick out and educate customers. braved the New York cold Tuesday night a few stones.” Alain Bernard, president and chief ex- to attend Van Cleef & Arpels’ holiday Guest mingled around the new tri- ecutive officer of the Americas, declined ichner e

cocktail party. level space, taking in glass-enclosed to discuss volume projections, but said The event doubled as an unveiling of displays of pieces from the Van Cleef the maison will be “one of the most im-

the Fifth Avenue flagship’s renovation, as archive. portant boutiques for Van Cleef & Arpels Steve by well as a showcase for a unique ballet per- The renovation and expansion of in the world,” noting that it has been op- Inside the renovated flagship. formance curated by Benjamin Millepied the flagship brings the space to 6,000 erating during the construction. and choreographed by Justin Peck. square feet, double the original size. A striking element of the renova- photo Decked in diamonds and embroi- Sun streams in through additional, larg- tion is a sculptural staircase covered in created interiors for the company’s mai- dered Marchesa, Lively reflected on her er windows and there’s a lighter color solid brass pyramids, enclosed in curved sons in Paris at the Place Vendôme and first not-so-subtle encounter with the scheme compared with the dark wood of glass with walnut and polished brass Hong Kong at Landmark Prince’s. The brand. “For my 21st birthday, I hung out the previous incarnation. handrails. Other design elements are library features volumes that archive all at the Van Cleef store until they agreed There’s a new mezzanine with a li- more subtle, such as the fern pattern the transactions since Van Cleef & Arpels to let me wear this bracelet for my birth- brary, VIP room and bridal area. The on the custom wallpaper and the brass arrived in the U.S. in 1939. The new brid- day,” she said gesturing towards her glit- brand has also taken over the second skyscraper-shaped decorations near the al salon has the widest range of bridal of- tering arm candy. “I borrowed it again, floor, which previously housed work- floorboards. The Art Deco-inspired rede- ferings in the company. but I have to give it back at the end of shops and offices, for events and lec- sign was conceived by designer Patrick — LAUREN MccARTHY AND the night.” tures. A walnut table and light fixture Jouin and architect Sanjit Manku, who SHARON EDELSON

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