The City Guide   . 62/96 - DCI VE

Focus on: VENICE ON THE MOVE On show: MARIANO FORTUNY: JOURNEY TO EGYPT Tips: mensile di informazione turistica e cultura - Anno 2 N.19 aprile 2004 0.50 euro sped a.p. 45% art. comma 20/b legge 6 ULTIMATE SHOPPING USEFUL PAGE VeniceMagazine ANTICHITÀ G I A N F R A N C O F O T I Dipinti di antichi Maestri, sculture d’alta epoca, oggetti d’arte medioevale Old master’s paintings, sculptures and wood carvings of gothic age, medieval art works

Modelletto per soffitto. Dipinto a Fondo Oro. Raffigurante Dio Padre Benedicente con Cherubini. Tavola cm 37 x 23. Opera di Gerolamo del Pacchia detto “il Pacchiarotto”.

Model for ceilings Painted with a Gold Background Representing The Lord God Blessing Cherubim Plaque size cm 37 by 23. Painted by Gerolamo del Pacchia known as “il Pacchiarotto”. • Progettazione grafica Laura Bianchi • • Progettazione

Le opere pubblicate sono visibili in galleria Works published can be seen in the gallery Free Entrance

S.Polo, 412/413 - Rialto 347.7583262 - 347.4048201 Tel. 041 2770384 - Fax 041 2775197 Venezia table CONTENTS15 Apr .04 - 15 May .04

VENICE ON THE MOVE Water ambulances, traffic wardens and firemen darting down the La chiesa dei Miracoli Canal Grande. In Venice all points of reference are overturned.

  Autoambulanze sull’acqua, vigili urbani sull’acqua, pompieri che  sfrecciano lungo il Canal Grande: a Venezia i riferimenti si ribaltano.

Magazine-guide MARIANO FORTUNY - JOURNEY TO EGYPT Anno II , n°19, Aprile 2004 mensile di informazione turistica Venice has dedicated an entire exhibition area to the great www.venicemagazine.com [email protected] photographer and artist Mariano Fortuny.

Editore: Andrea Carnio Società editrice: NIO s.r.l. MARIANO FORTUNY - VIAGGIO IN EGITTO

Direttore responsabile: Giovanni Mazzonetto   Caporedattore: Samuele Costantini Conturbanti, eleganti, evocative, ecco come si possono definire Sviluppo grafico: Nicola Bernardi le foto del Viaggio in Egitto del grande Mariano Fortuny.  Coordinatore marketing: Antonio Varisco Selezioni di caffè Arabica da tutto il mondo - International selection of 100% Arabic coffees Hanno collaborato: Martina Mian, Andrea Heinrich, Thejra Tonetto, Alberto Toso Fei, Riccardo Bon, Caterina Sopradassi, Alegk, Daniele Sorrentino, Elisabetta Carraro, Gianluca Mastini, EENY MEENY MINY MO Grazia Fiore. Broken windows at the worst. If you’re lucky, the ball is confiscated Redazione ed Amministrazione: NIO s.r.l. via A. da Mestre, 19 and duly punctured: hard time for Venetian kids. 30172 Venezia - Mestre

tel./fax +39.041.5454536  [email protected] AMBARABACICICOCÒ

Area Vendita: NIO s.r.l. Vetri rotti, se va male. Se invece le cose girano per il verso giusto il pal- via A. da Mestre, 19  lone è requisito e poi bucato: difficile la vita per i bambini della Laguna. 30172 Venezia - Mestre tel./fax +39.041.5454536 [email protected]

Traduzioni: Lexicon Translations s.a.s. via Caneve, 77 Venezia - Mestre. CAFFETTERIA CAFFÈ DEL DOGE EMPORIO CAFFÈ DEL DOGE Calle dei Cinque ! San Polo "#$% "#& ! Rialto Ponte del Lovo ! San Marco *$+& Stampa: Arti Grafiche Venete srl, tel' ()& #*+ ,--..$. !www'caffedeldoge'com tel' ()& #*+ ,-#$*)& Quarto d’Altino - Venezia. the CITY GUIDES and LISTING Distribuzione e Logistica: NIO s.r.l. A necessary tool for enjoying Venice and what it offers. Six different guides writ- Un indispensabile strumento per vivere nel migliore dei modi Venezia e tutto ciò via A. da Mestre, 19 ten by an alert Venetian editorial staff. che offre. Sei guide curate da una redazione attenta e “Veneziana”. Indice degli inserzionisti 30172 - Venezia-Mestre. Advertisers’ index Fotografia: Archivio VM, Archivio APT, Archivio Storico COVER Bistrot de Venise pag. 38 Comunale “Fondo Giacomelli”, Archivio Fotografico La Piscina pag. 38 Resini, Archivio Magistrato delle Acque, Archivio Antichità Gianfranco Foti II cop. Fral pag. 42 Ristorante La Colomba III cop. Hostaria Da Dante pag. 42 Procuratoria di San Marco, Archivio Accademia. Generali IV cop. Ristorante Poppi pag. 42 Maharani pag. 43 Registrazione presso il Tribunale Civile e Penale ART & CULTURE Panbiscotto pag. 43 Galleria San Marco 101 pag. 13 Il Piccolo pag. 43 di Venezia n°1403 del 14/11/2001 Bugno Art gallery pag. 14 Il Burchiello pag. 44 Cube Gallery pag. 14 Leon d’Oro pag. 44 Registrazione presso il Registro Nazionale Stampe e Studio Arga pag. 15 Tantra pag. 44 Chorus pag. 19 Anna & Otello pag. 45 Periodici per il Garante nelle Comunicazioni n° 8189. Telecom pag. 21 Vecia Brenta pag. 45 Cà Romea pag. 45    DINING  SHOPPING  Caffetteria Caffè del Doge pag. 02 Si ringrazia per la collaborazione: Ristorante al Mondo Novo pag. 32 Venetia Studium pag. 01 Bacaro pag. 33 Coccinelle pag. 26 Ristorante da Ivo pag. 33 Solaris pag. 27 MUSEUMS MUSEI CHURCHES CHIESE SHOPPING SHOPPING DINING CUCINA MAINLAND ENTROTERRA Aquarama pag. 33 Ganesha pag. 27 Museums Musei Churches Chiese Antiques Antiquario Restaurants Ristoranti Restaurants Ristoranti Ristorante Al Piron pag. 34 Hibiscus pag. 28 Foundations Fondazioni Scuole Grandi Scuole Grandi Jewellry & Watches Gioiellerie Bacari Bacari Bacari Bacari Hosteria Galileo pag. 34 Jallits pag. 28 Art Galleries Gallerie d’arte Monuments Monumenti Boutique & Griffe Boutique & Griffe Pizzerie Pizzerie Pizzerie Pizzerie Palesa Galley pag. 28 Ristorante al Brindisi pag. 34 AVA AVAL CATeV Private Galleries Gallerie Private Handicrafts Artigianato Cafés & Pastries Caffè & Dolci Cafés & Pastries Caffè & Dolci Avogaria Music Restaurant Design pag. 35 Ristorante La Feluca pag. 35 Ristorante Carpaccio pag. 35 SERVICE & ENTERTAINMENT All rights reserved. Ristorante Riviera pag. 36 VeNice Internet point pag. 39 Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. VENICEMAGAZINE Ostaria Boccadoro pag. 36 Venetian Navigator Internet point pag. 39 the city guide is registered trademark of NIO s.r.l., makes every effort to Ristorante La Colombina pag. 36 ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes but cannot be held Anton Corbijn Special: The monster Events & Arena Tourist pag. 39  The Church of     Ristorante S.Giorgio pag. 37 Venice Agency pag. 39 responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. Snapping Ultimate of cooking Curiosity San Stae Bacaro Jazz pag. 37 Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia pag. 47 The choice of the advertising texts has been made at the discretion the stars Shopping is coming Outdoor Al Buso pag. 37 BBG pag. 47 of the Venice Magazine staff. This novelty wasn’t obviously Canal Grande «non attiran- STEAM WATERBUS VAPORETTO A VAPORE welcomed by gondoliers who dosi, com’era a prevedersi le The first steps in favour of a limited La prima esperienza di limitato were afraid of being damaged benedizioni dei gondolieri e environmental impact where impatto ambientale nasce pochi taken after 1925, when waterbu- anni dopo l’entrata in esercizio dei by it (Venice Gazette, Mon- dei battellanti» che si crede- ses began being used regularly. vaporetti. Era l’anno 1925, la pro- Before then, propulsion had been pulsione fino ad allora veniva rea- day 13th June 1881). vano «danneggiati dalla achieved with alternative steam lizzata con macchina a Vapore However Venice was finally novella speculazione» (Gaz- engines fuelled by carbon. alternativa alimentata a carbone.

provided with its first steam- zetta di Venezia, lunedì 13 ELECTRIC WATERBUS VAPORETTO ELETTRICO boat liner – a revolutionary giugno 1881). After 1945 the fleet was recompo- Dopo il 1945 viene ricostruita la sed and the amount of work and flotta, il servizio e il carico di lavoro step forward for the most Venezia si dotava così del services increased considerably. dei vaporetti aumentò in maniera The Venice transport Company sensibile. La scelta che fece pedestrian city in the world suo primo vaporetto di linea. opted again for an electric pro- l’Azienda allora, si orientò ancora by definition, following the Per la “città più pedonale del pulsion system supplied with on sulla propulsione elettrica, ma al board thermic engines, instead of posto delle batterie, venne instal- path already undertaken by mondo” era una rivoluzione batteries. lato a bordo un motore termico. other European countries like che imitava quanto già attivo HYBRID ELECTRIC WATERBUS VAPORETTO ELETTRICO IBRIDO London and Paris. A short in altre città europee come In 1995 the Actv, the local transport Nel 1995 Actv (azienda trasporto time later eight steamboats Londra o Parigi. Poco più company, submitted to the European pubblico locale) presenta alla Community a project proposal for a Comunità Europea una proposta arrived in Venice by sea tardi giunsero a Venezia, via new type of waterbus. di progetto di un nuovo vaporetto.

directly from France. Those acqua, direttamente dalla HYDROGEN WATERBUS VAPORETTO A IDROGENO were the very steamboats that Francia, i primi otto vaporet- The plans envisage a short-term E’ prevista in tempi brevi la realizzazio- replacement of battery-driven ne di un vaporetto con propulsione a inaugurated the liner of the ti che avrebbero inaugurato waterbuses with a fuel cell system batterie in unità dotata di un impianto Canal Grande. la linea del Canal Grande. supplied with hydrogen. a fuel cell alimentato da idrogeno. Today every part of the city is Oggi la città è servita da interlinked by water-buses vaporetti e motoscafi. I primi (following the route of the passano lungo la serpentina Canal Grande from Piazzale del Canal Grande partendo Roma, to San Marco and on da Piazzale Roma fino a San to Lido) and by motorboats Marco o proseguendo fino al © Interpress that link the two shores of Lido in un continuo andiri- more external canals, like vieni; gli altri collegano le Giudecca and Canareggio. sponde dei canali più esterni, Venice is the only modern city come quello della Giudecca in the world that can be tra- e di Cannaregio. velled exclusively on foot or Venezia è l’unica città moder- by boat. Indeed goods, tou- na al mondo la cui viabilità è GONDOLA’S WHARFS GLI STAZI Venice on the move rists, commuters and citizens solamente nautica o pedona- S.Beneto (1293), S. Barnaba I più antichi traghetti sul Canal (1298), Fontego della Farina, Ca’ Grande sono quelli di S.Beneto reach destination only by le. Tutto dunque, se non a Dolfin, Rialto (1293), S. Geremia, S. (1293), di S. Barnaba (1298), ater ambulances, utoambulanze sul- water. The Canal Grande piedi, si muove necessaria- Marcuola, S. Stae, S. Felice (1349), Fontego della Farina, Ca’ Dolfin, traffic wardens and l’acqua, vigili urbani Santa Sofia (1363), S. Lucia (1374), Rialto (1293), S. Geremia, S. Venezia si muove divides the city into two parts S.Tomà (1354), la Pietà (1390), S. Marcuola, S. Stae, S. Felice (1349), mente sull’acqua: merci, firemen darting sull’acqua, pompieri that are currently linked by Gregorio (1400). are the oldest Santa Sofia (1363), S. Lucia (1374), di Thejra Tonetto W A turisti, pendolari e cittadini. ferry stops on the Canal Grande. S.Tomà (1354), la Pietà (1390), S. down the Canal Grande. che sfrecciano lungo il Canal three bridges: the Scalzi, the Per facilitare l’attraversa- While S. Tomà and S. Sofia are still Gregorio (1400). Oggi resistono al In Venice all points of refe- Grande. A Venezia i riferi- operative, others like Dogana, S. tempo quelli di S. Tomà e S. Sofia, Rialto, and the Accademia mento del Canal Grande che Maria del Giglio, S. Samuele, riva altri (Dogana, S. Maria del Giglio, Only by immersing and sometimes losing one- rence are overturned. Living menti si ribaltano, le pro- bridges and a forth one being separa il centro della città in del Carbon, S. Marcuola and S. Samuele, riva del Carbon, S. in a city without ordinary spettive si allungano. Vivere Ferrovia (train station) function Marcuola e Ferrovia) traghettano self in the maze of ‘calli’ and ‘campielli’ (narrow under construction – the train due sezioni, collegate da tre only on scheduled days. a orari stabiliti e non tutti i giorni. alleys and small squares) can Venice’s origina- roads is certainly not easy and in una città dove l’asfalto station bridge designed by ponti (degli Scalzi, di Rialto lity and unexpectedness be truly sensed. anybody re who works in non esiste non è certo como- Santiago Calatrava. The two e dell’Accademia, e presto Venice, who has to carry do. Da sempre lo sa bene chi city shores are further connec- quello della Stazione ferro- goods around the city, who ci lavora, chi trasporta le ted by “ferry-gondolas”. Early viaria disegnato da Santiago Per capire Venezia, la sua originalità e impreve- has to reach the work place merci, chi ogni mattina deve in the morning ferry-gondolas Calatrava), si effettuano dei dibilità, è sempre meglio abbandonare le prin- every single morning is well raggiungere il luogo di lavo- are already filled with around servizi traghetto attraverso le cipali mete turistiche e i mezzi di trasporto, acquainted with this reality. ro. Era il 12 giugno 1881 20,000 workers that have to gondole: di prima mattina deviare dai soliti itinerari e immergersi nelle calli On 12th June 1881 the quando il vaporetto Regina leave the mainland to reach sono colmi di lavoratori e nei campielli più popolari. steamboat Regina Margherita Margherita, partendo dal their workplace in the inner assonnati che in 20.000 dalla left slowly from the Palace of palazzo della Prefettura col city every day. The trip “terraferma” invadono ogni the Prefecture for its first trial suo incedere lento, fece la usually lasts a few minutes giorno gli uffici del centro © Apt

FOCUS ON run in the Canal Grande. sua prima gita di prova sul and costs only 40 euro cents, storico. Il tragitto dura pochi FOCUS ON   away from the traditional coli e meno frequentati cana- tourist routes and to abandon li interni: la città dall’acqua è means of transport. ancor più incantevole e sug- Only by immersing and some- gestiva. times losing oneself in the Con i taxi acquei, invece, si maze of ‘calli’ and ‘campielli’ può raggiungere rapidamen- (narrow alleys and small te qualsiasi luogo della lagu- squares) can Venice’s origina- na, ma anche in questo caso i lity and unexpectedness be costi sono elevati. Per capire truly sensed. The city can be Venezia, la sua originalità e entirely visited on foot in imprevedibilità, è sempre about one hour, although meglio abbandonare le prin- only by proceeding at a brisk cipali mete turistiche e i pace, as all locals do. mezzi di trasporto, deviare Comfortable shoes, sense of dai soliti itinerari e immer- direction and a couple of gersi nelle calli e nei campiel- points of reference are funda- li più popolari, dove è bello mental to fully enjoy a fine perdersi alla fine di una walk throughout the city. If lunga passeggiata, che rima- that does not suffice, losing ne pur sempre il miglior oneself will be in any case metodo per visitare e cono- worthwhile. scere la città.

that is why they are often cho- minuti e ha un costo irrisorio sen by those people who want di 40 centesimi di euro, to take a short and economi- motivo per cui a volte viene cal trip on a typical Venetian usato anche da chi voglia boat. Gondolas have been for provare un breve, ma econo- hundreds of years the mostly mico viaggio a pelo d’acqua used means of transport in nelle tipiche imbarcazioni Venice. Indeed, thanks to veneziane. their particular shape and to Le gondole sono state per the gondoliers’ skill they are centinaia d’anni il mezzo di able to cross any type of trasporto più usato a canals, even the most narrow Venezia: la loro forma allun- ones. They have become a gata e particolare e la symbol for the city’s tourism. destrezza dei gondolieri con- They are often rented for sentono di percorrere qual- pleasure by tourists at very siasi canale cittadino, anche high prices and are even sold il più disagevole. in miniature as souvenirs. A Oggi sono divenute il simbo- trip throughout smaller and lo del turismo in città, affitta- less visited canals unfolds the te per diletto dai turisti, non charming and fascinating certo a prezzi economici, e nature of this unique water- riprodotte in scala per essere city. Although expensively, vendute come souvenir. any place of the lagoon can be Ai soliti itinerari in gondola swiftly reached by water-taxis sul Canal Grande è forse, too. The best way to visit però, più interessante sosti- © Archivio Giacomelli © Archivio Resini Venice however, is to move tuire un giro attraverso i pic- FOCUS ON FOCUS ON   Museums guide Museums Theatres Galleries Exhibitions City Listing

Musei Teatri Gallerie Esposizioni Listing tematico

Contents FONDAZIONE BEVILACQUA LA MASA HEAVEN AND HELL Anton Corbijn Specials of the month: Love, ecstasy, beauty, delight, freedom and peace on one side; despair, pain, Snapping the stars - Fotografando le stelle Bevilacqua La Masa: Heaven and hell deception, hatred and terror on the other. Heavenly sentiments and dreadful sta- di Daniele Sorrentino Palazzo Fortuny: Anton Corbijn tes of mind united but at the same time in contrast. Two realities PALAZZETTO TITO that twelve artists have tried to reproduce for the ‘Bevilacqua Agenda: Not to miss La Masa Foundation’ in the exhibition ‘Heaven and Hell’. Hasselblad, two lenses, a na Hasselblad, due From 6/5 to 23/8 Young, internationally famous and up-and-coming artists have 12 p.m. - 6 p.m. bag and me”, if there is a obiettivi, una borsa e Highlight: been selected for the project. ‘Heaven and hell’ has been Closing day: Tuesday secret to Corbijn’s portraits me”, se esiste un segreto MARIANO FORTUNY organized by Giacinto Di Pietrantonio, director of the Modern “A “U Info: +39.041.5207797 and Contemporary Art Gallery of Bergamo, and can be viewed it is that the relationship he establishes nei ritratti di Corbijn è proprio nel Venice has dedicated an entire exhibition in the two seats of the Bevilacqua La Masa Foundation: with his subjects. “I am interested in rapporto che riesce a costruire con i area to the great photographer and artist ‘Heaven’ will be exposed in the gallery of Saint Mark’s square, while ‘Hell’ will be Mariano Fortuny. on show at the Palazzetto Tito. According to their own artistic peculiarity, each the result, extra people are just a dead suoi soggetti. “Mi interessa il risultato, artist will address one of the topics linked to the ancestral fears and desires of weight on the photograph. If I brought le persone in più appesantiscono il humanity. along a thousand people with me they fotografo. Se mi portassi dietro un PARADISO E INFERNO would all be looking at the subject and migliaio di persone tutti starebbero lì Appuntamenti del mese: Amore, estasi, bellezza, felicità, libertà e pace. Ma anche disperazione, dolore, his or her reaction would be completely a guardare il soggetto che reagirebbe Bevilacqua La Masa: Paradiso e Inferno menzogna, odio, sofferenza e terrore. Sentimenti paradisiaci e stati d’animo infer- Palazzo Fortuny: Anton Corbijn nali, realtà unite e allo stesso tempo contrapposte. Cercherà di metterle in mostra differently. I am interested in stimula- in maniera completamente differente. “Paradiso e Inferno” un percorso realizzato da 12 artisti per la Fondazione ting a reaction between myself and the Io sono interessato creare una reazio- Agenda: Da non perdere Bevilacqua La Masa. La loro selezione è avvenuta mescolando volutamente i più giovani ai più noti, gli stranieri di fama internazionale e gli emergenti. Paradiso e person being photographed, and that is ne tra me e le persone che fotografo, guide guide Editoriale: Inferno è una mostra a cura di Giacinto Di Pietrantonio, direttore della Galleria something personal. quindi qualcosa di personale. d’arte Moderna e Contemporanea di Bergamo, che si snoderà nelle due sedi MARIANO FORTUNY della Fondazione Bevilacqua la Masa di Venezia: nella galleria di piazza San The photograph must reflect an L’immagine deve riflettere l’incontro Conturbanti, eleganti, evocative, ecco come Marco andrà in scena il Paradiso, a Palazzetto Tito protagonista sarà l’Inferno. encounter between two persons.” tra due persone.” si possono definire le foto del Viaggio in Egitto Ogni artista affronterà una problematica legata alle paure e ai desideri ancestrali dell’umanità, la più legata alla sua specifica poetica. del grande fotografo e artista Mariano Fortuny. All images © Anton Corbijn. Courtesy LipanjePuntin artecontemporanea - Torch Gallery (Amsterdam). Anton Corbijn è rappresentato in Italia da LipanjePuntin - Trieste, via Diaz 4. MUSEUMS MUSEUMS   mystic and exotic experience una generale idea dell’espe- of the artist, but that can be rienza “mistico-esotica” vis- easily grasped by the spectator suta da chi le ha scattate, ma too. The pictures portraying facilmente colta anche da chi Mariano moments of his private life guarda. Gli scatti che ritrag- clearly suggest Fortuny’s abi- gono momenti di vita perso- lity to observe, capture and nale lasciano sempre intrave- render the essence of any sub- dere l’occhio dell’artista che ject. All the photographs have sa cogliere, anche in un pae- Fortuny been gathered in a number of saggio di difficile resa, l’essen- small but precious albums. za di ciò che deve essere The particular black and inquadrato e, dunque, “visto” white effect contributes to o rappresentato. Questa sorta reveal a country, which is at di appunti fotografici, rac- the same time sumptuous, colti in una serie di preziosi e static although not completely piccoli album, che non a and particularly evocative caso potremmo definire thanks to its ancient monu- “d’autore”, rivelano un ments. Egitto sontuoso, statico ma The are images of the ancient non immobile, carico di tutta capital of the Pharaohs belon- quella forza evocativa che i ging to the Ethiopian dynasty suoi antichi monumenti , the Aussan market – full of riescono a produrre, grazie luxurious clothes and archaic senz’altro all’elegante resa tools–, of boats on the banks del bianco e nero. Scorrono of the river Nile or of boats in dunque le immagini di Tebe, surrealistic marshes, in which l’antica capitale dei faraoni the unusual shape of a della dinastia etiope, o quelle woman dressed in white – his scattate al mercato di Assuan wife Henriette – seems to tra abiti ed utensili arcaici o,

enice has dedicated onturbanti, eleganti, an entire exhibition evocative, ecco come Varea to the great pho- Csi possono definire le Journey to Egypt tographer and artist Mariano foto del Viaggio in Egitto del Fortuny. grande fotografo e artista The photographs of his Mariano Fortuny, cui Vene- Photographic notes by an artist “Journey in Egypt” can be zia ha dedicato lo spazio di Riccardo Bon described as evocative, ele- espositivo omonimo. Ses- gant and impressing. santa immagini inedite in Sixty unpublished black and bianco e nero sull’itinerario white pictures which portray compiuto da Fortuny e sua subjects from the artist’s trip moglie Henriette tra il gen- with his wife Henrietta in the naio e il marzo del 1938 nel country of Pharaohs,between Paese dei Faraoni, che si Monuments, views, the river Nile, people, mar- January and March 1938, are potranno ammirare nella kets and villages: a great exposition at Fortuny on display in the Fortuny sede espositiva del Museo museum from March the 27th to June the 27th. Museum from 27th March to Fortuny dal 27 marzo al 27 27th June 2004. giugno 2004. La scelta dei The exceptionality of his pho- particolari riprodotti, l’atten- I monumenti, le grandi vedute, il fiume Nilo, le diver- tographs certainly lies in the zione per la quotidianità in guide se genti, i mercati e i villaggi: una grande mostra al choice of details, in their onei- un interessante e carico con- guide museo Fortuny dal 27 marzo al 27 giugno. ric nature and in the artist’s trasto “presente/passato di attention to an every day life grandeur”, la predilezione constantly intertwined by per uno spazio che potrem- past and present. mo definire “onirico” che MUSEUMS The result is the idea of a emerge da queste foto dà MUSEUMS   Museums walk unwarily through dan- ancora, l’intrigo di barche in The following list describes famous and Foundations interesting museums, theatres and gal- gerous quicksand. riva al grande fiume Nilo, Art Galleries leries in Venice. Full of useful and Silvio Fuso, the Museum’s che in altri scatti viene colto Private Galleries detailed information. curator, has carefully selected in una surreale palude, dove MUSEUMS all the pictures that are on un’insolita figura femminile Il seguente listing descrive famosi ed exhibition. vestita di bianco – la moglie CITY LISTING Musei interessanti musei, teatri e gallerie della città. Completo di informazioni They have been chosen accor- Henriette – dà l’idea di attra- Fondazioni utili e dettagliate. ding to their expressiveness versare incautamente tra Gallerie d’arte and then classified following sabbie mobili in agguato ad Gallerie private a thematic order: Mariano ogni passo. Tra le centinaia and Herrietta Fortuny, monu- di fotografie messe a disposi- ments, views, the river Nile, zione, le immagini in mostra people, markets and villages. sono state rigorosamente Museums information society. From cartography to Tiepolo, Canaletto, Guardi, Rosalba Renaissance pieces from the collec- They have all been printed by selezionate dal conservatore Musei digital mapping. From 1 May to 11 July. Carriera, Pietro Longhi, and tions of Correr, Moli and Cicogna. Opening: 09.00-19.00 Piazzetta. Collections of furniture, Opening: 10.00-17.00 the Venetian photographer del Museo Fortuny Silvio Tickets: € 11.00 PALAZZO DUCALE Chinese and Venetian vases. Closing day: Wednesday Giorgio Molinari who had Fuso in base alla rappresen- Tickets: € 4.00 S.Marco, 1 map: G6 MUSEO ARCHEOLOGICO NAZIONALE Collection of wooden statues by already restored over one tatività espressiva e dunque ph. +39.041.2715911 Brustolon. Museo Marciano MUSEO DEL MERLETTO thousand pictures collected by raggruppate in capitoli tema- S.Marco, 52 map: G6 Opening: 10.00-18.00 Burano, Piazza Galuppi ph. +39.041.5225978 Closing day: Tuesday ph. +39.041.730034 Fortuny himself in the 80s. tici: Mariano e la moglie, i Tickets: € 6.50 The museum was founded on the Museum entirely dedicated to All the collections in the monumenti, le grandi vedu- bequeath of noble Venetian families Burano laces and their history. It is BIBLIOTECA NAZIONALE Fortuny Museum, that consist te, il fiume Nilo, le diverse who operated in the old colonial MARCIANA adjacent to the school of this art. in a large number of works of genti, i mercati e i villaggi. trade markets. It is located in the Sale Monumentali Permanent exhibition: numerous building of Procuratie Nuove in St. laces made by the annexed school, art and materials, are ordered Le stesse sono poi state Piazza S. Marco map: G6 Mark’s Square and contains Roman ph. +39.041.5208788 important designs, photographic by topics: paintings, photo- stampate a cura del fotografo and Greek finds dating from the 5th The building, designed by J. Sansovino, and iconographic examples. graphs, textiles and clothes. veneziano Giorgio Molinari, century B.C. to the 3rd century A.D. houses the precious book collection of Opening: 10.00-17.00 Closing day: Tuesday They are the result of an già autore assieme ad altri The symbolic seat of Venetian Permanent exhibition: collections of Venice’s Serenissima Republic. power, formerly the seat of the bronzes, ceramics, jewels and coins and Permanent exhibition: La Sapienza Tickets: € 4.00 introspective journey of the negli anni ’80 di un impo- Doge and State Magistratures, the very beautiful sculptures with many ori- by Tiziano and the Sala della Libreria MUSEO FORTUNY artist, through which he has nente lavoro di restauro di Palace is the supreme embodiment ginal Greek and Roman pieces. decorated with twenty-one tondos of Venetian civilisation. A master- Opening: 9.00-19.00 on the arched ceiling and philoso- S. Marco, 3780 map: F5 become famous all over the oltre mille fotografie colle- ph. +39.041.5200995 piece of gothic architecture, it Tickets: € 11.00 world. zionate da Fortuny. phers’ portraits by Tintoretto and reveals a grandiose stratification of MUSEO DI STORIA NATURALE Veronese on the walls. constructive and ornamental ele- Fondaco dei Turchi, 1730 map: E3 Temporary exhibition: ments. The interiors, superbly ph. +39.041.2750206 Venice and Mediterranean lazarettos. decorated by legions of artists, A partial reopening of the Venetian From 31 March to 13 June including Tiziano, Veronese, Museum (closed for restoration) Opening: 09.00-19.00 Tickets: € 11.00 Tintoretto, Vittoria and Tiepolo, offers visitors a chance to view the offer a range of different experien- renovated hall dedicated to the CASA GOLDONI ces: from the vast halls of political historical Ligabue Expedition S.Polo, 2794 map: E5 power to the refinement of the (1973) and, on the ground floor, a ph. +39.041.2440317 Doge's chambers, from the gloom new acquarium with more than 50 Re-opened to the public on 27th Located in a Gothic palazzo, this is of the prison cells to the luminosity species of fish and animals. October 2001, Palazzo Centani is a particularly charming museum of the loggias overlooking the Opening: 10.00 - 16.00 Sat-Sun the building where the famed which, by respecting the initial Piazza and the lagoon. Tickets: Free Venetian playwright Carlo Goldoni destination given by Mariano Temporary exhibition: The Genius of was born. This delightful gothic Fortuny, who created his own ate- Tradition. Eight centuries of velvet CA' REZZONICO palazzo today houses a sparkling lier of photography, sets and sta- in Venice: Tessitura Bevilacqua. Museo del Settecento new, high-tech museum devoted to ging. It organizes all exhibitions Until 15 May Veneziano e Pinacoteca the playwright’s work and includes a under the theme of visual commu- Opening: 09.00-19.00 Egidio Martini host of documents and projections nication. Tickets: € 11.00 Dorsoduro, 3136 map: E6 of historical theatrical performances. Permanent exhibition: collection, ph. +39.041.2410100 Permanent exhibition: Venetian MUSEO CORRER theatrical relics and many texts, ori- ordered for big themes (painting, S.Marco, 52 map: G6 ginal manuscripts and theatrical light, photography, textile workers), ph. +39.041.2405211 works of several eras. representing the results of the arti- The exhibition is divided into three Opening: 10.00-17.00 st’s investigations. sections: the neo-classical part, the Closing day: Sunday Temporary exhibition: historical part of Venetian civilisa- Tickets: € 2.50 Anton Corbijn. From 3 April to 30 May. tion and the Venetian picture gal- Mariano Fortuny: Journey to Egypt. MUSEO DEL VETRO From 27 March to 27 June. lery. Visitor will discover the politi- Art glass Museum cal, social and military history of Opening: 10.00 - 18.00 Murano, F.ta Giustinian map: M2 Closing day: Monday Venice’s Serenissima Republic. guide ph. +39.041.739586 guide Permanent exhibition: collections of This splendid baroque palazzo was Located in the palace of the MUSEO DIOCESANO DI ARTE SACRA weapons, games, marble and bronze restructured and decorated several Torcello Bishop, it is a typical gothic Castello, 4312 map: H6 sculptures, coins and medals. times. It still preserves beautiful Venetian building. Important priva- ph. +39.041.5229166 Paintings by Carpaccio, la Tras- frescoes by Tiepolo on the ceilings te collections were added to the The museum contains many finds of figurazione by Giovanni Bellini, sta- of the noble floors. It is furnished ancient pieces. Venetian convents and churches and is OPEN DAILY 10.00 am - 8.00 pm tues and sketches by Canova. with precious original furniture. Permanent exhibition: unique ex- located in the St. Apollonia convent MUSEUMS Temporary exhibition: Territory in the Permanent exhibition: paintings by tant copies of Murano glass, and (12th-13th century). A rare jewel of MUSEUMS   Romanic architecture, the cloister con- Closing day: Monday TELECOM FUTURE CENTRE GALLERIA DI PALAZZO CINI tains the Lapidario Marciano with Tickets: € 6.00 San Marco, 4826 map: G5 Dorsoduro, 864 map: E7 Roman and Byzantine stone fragments. ph. +39.041.5213206 ph. +39.041.5210755 PUNTOLAGUNA Permanent exhibition: works of art, fur- The sixteenth-century palazzo was C.po Santo Stefano, 2949 map: H7 nishings and holy furniture. Paintings by the residence of Count Vittorio ph. +39.041.5293582 Cini, a famous financier and patron Palma il Giovane, Pellegrini, Luca The animated atlas showing more of and Giordano and Moretto. of the arts. The second piano nobile Venice and its lagoon. Gallery of Palazzo Cini is reserved for tem- Opening: 11.00-19.00 At the multi-media points: itineraries Closing day: Monday porary exhibitions and in recent Tickets: free through cd roms, animated sequences, years has been used to display works films, data banks and on-line archives owned by the Foundation. MUSEO EBRAICO for consultation: an essential library on Museums AGENDA Cannaregio, 2902/b map: E2 Temporary exhibition: Ricordi di ph. +39.041.715359 the lagoon on video: films and docu- guerra e di prigionia: i disegni di mentaries on request: appointments to On strolling through Campo del The most advanced international Renzo Biasion della Fondazione investigate specific subjects. Ghetto Nuovo - the site of the research centres have reconsidered Giorgio Cini. Opening: 14.30-17.30 BUGNO ART GALLERY S. Marco 1996 - ph. +39.041.5231305 STUDIO ARGA San marco 3659/a - ph. +39.041.2411124 museum which bears witness to the Opening: 11.00-19.00 Closing day: Saturday and Sunday the historical and social elements of constant and productive presence of 23 April - 09 May “COLLEZIONI PRIVATE” from Tibet to Japan this city. Permanent exhibition. Closing day: Monday Tickets: € 6.50 the Jewish community in Venice - “PAOLA BERNARDI” : RITMICHE - LA DANZA DEL COLORE Opening: 10.00-18.00 Studio Arga, Asian Art, opens in Venice in and Campo del Ghetto Vecchio, you SPAZIO CULTURALE SVIZZERO Closing day: Monday Born in 1990 from the col- 1999. Studio Arga specializes in will come across five synagogues, Palazzo Trevisan degli Ulivi Tickets: Free laboration between Mas- Gandharan Art, Indian sculpture, Private Galleries three of which are open to the public. Campo S. Agnese, 810 map: E7 similiano Bugno and Da- ph. +39.041.5225996 Tibetan painting and bronzes, Chinese Gallerie Private Permanent exhibition: collections vide Samueli, the Bugno archeology. The gallery (very close to Art Galleries of furniture, texts and wedding con- Art Gallery (formerly La Fenice Theater) is also the Venitian ANTICHITÀ GIANFRANCO FOTI tracts, woven of liturgical use, orna- known as Bugno And base of web project ARGA. Is now Gallerie d’arte San Polo, 412/413 map: F4 mental silvers, fabrics and curtains. Samueli) can be found in running a collection of Chinese and the main gallery space ph. +39.041.2770384 Temporary exhibition: Ariela Bohm’s Indian art. situated in Campo S. signs of the word. Until 25 April. GALLERIA INTERNAZIONALE Fantin (a few hundred BUGNO ART GALLERY Opening: 10.00-18.00 Studio Arga, galleria d’arte asiatica, D'ARTE MODERNA CA' PESARO meters from Piazza San San Marco, 1996/d map: F6 Closing day: Saturday inaugura la sua sede veneziana nel Santa Croce, 2070 map: F4 ph. +39.041.5231305 Tickets: € 3.00 Marco and exactly in 1999. E’ specializzata in archeologia ph. +39.041.5240695 front of la Fenice theater). e arte cinese, arte tibetana, scultura Foundations Since 1990, work by del Gandhara e indiana. Lo spazio, a Fondazioni Marco D’Anna. A photographic major contemporary pochi passi dal teatro La Fenice e’ trip in the universe of the artist artists both italian and diventato la base fisica del progetto “in FONDAZIONE international has been Pierre Casè. In 2003 Marco rete”: ARGA. BEVILACQUA LA MASA shown, from Arman to San Marco, 71 map: G6 D’Anna, a notorious Swiss photo- In esposizione "Collezioni Private", dal Tibet al Schifano, Ben Vautier to Ugo Nespolo, Pizzinato to Guidi, giving Giappone in mostra piccoli e grandi tesori di ph. +39.041.5207797 grapher, took a long trip which space at the same time also to new artistic reality. A foundation that has the aim of allowed himself to follow end appassionati Europei. spreading and increasing knowledge report, step by step, the artistic Nata nel 1990 dalla collaborazione di Massimiliano Bugno e of contemporary art, it dedicates experiences of another Swiss Davide Samueli la Bugno Art Gallery (ex Bugno & Samueli) ha Selected exhibition of the last 4 years: Bugno Art Gallery has been exhibi- particular attention to young artists. author: the painter Pierre Casè. esposto in questi anni nella sede espositiva principale sita in One of the most important internatio- “Thangkas - Religious painting in Tibet 15th-18th centuries” - (1999-2000) ting in these years works by the With its main location in Saint Temporary exhibition: Il ritorno della Campo S. Fantin (a poche centinaia di metri da Piazza S. Marco nal modern art galleries in Italy, it con- most interesting italian and foreingn “Warring States and Han dynasty: The Golden Age of China before Christ” - (2000-01) Mark’s Square, it will soon become memoria. Marco D'Anna. Until 16 May. ed esattamente di fronte al Teatro La Fenice) opere dei maggiori tains a wealth of paintings, sculptures, contemporary artists. a place for looking up books, CD- Opening: Mon-Fri 11-17, Sat-Sun 11-19 artisti contemporanei italiani e non, da Arman a Schifano, da Ben “Gandhara: crossroads of art: Buddhist Sculpture between Mediterreannean and etchings and drawings by renowned India, 1st to 7th centuries” - (2001-02) Roms and other rare material. Closing day: Tuesday Vautier a Ugo Nespolo, da Pizzinato a Guidi, dando spazio allo contemporary artists of many coun- GALLERIA SAN MARCO 101 Tickets: Free Temporary exhibition: Paradiso e stesso tempo anche a nuove realtà artistiche. “Mandala” - (2002-03) tries. It is located in a magnificent S. Marco, 101 map: G6 Inferno. Galleria di P.zza S.Marco. Venetian patrician palazzo and con- Ph. +39.041.2770151 FONDAZIONE GUGGENHEIM In this gallery you can buy authentic From 6 May to 23 August. Dorsoduro, 701 map: F7 tains a masterpiece by B. Longhena. artwork by the artistic geniuses of Opening: 14.30-19.00 ph. +39.041.2405411 Temporary exhibition: Shozo modern times: Picasso, Dalì, Chagal Closing day: Tuesday CUBE GALLERY San Marco 1655 - ph. +39.041.5288135 Shimamoto. From 24 April to 30 May. Tickets: Free Opening: 10.00-17.00 and glasswork by Seguso. GROUP EXHIBITION: (TONIOLO, JAENICHEN, ROMANIN, BERNARDI, Closing day: Monday FONDAZIONE QUERINI STAMPALIA STUDIO ARGA LA SALA, CASAGRANDE, JOSE OLMEDO PONCE, BIAGIO GIBILTERRA) Tickets: € 5.50 Castello, 5252 map: H5 C.lle degli Assasini - S.Marco, 3659/a ph. +39.041.2711411 Open since September 27 2002, Cube Gallery came about with the ph. +39.041.2411124 map: F6 collaboration of Massimiliano Bugno and Paolo Vincenzi, after 12 GALLERIE DELL'ACCADEMIA [email protected] - www.argainc.com years of experience with Bugno Art Gallery. Cube Gallery differs from Dorsoduro, 1055 map: E6 the former in its dedication for the most part to artists emerging from ph. +39.041.5222247 GALLERIA CA' REZZONICO the Venetian scene both local and international. Its intention is to The Accademia picture galleries Dorsoduro, 2793 map: E6 ph. +39.041.5280035 restore the relationship between young artists and private galleries, provide a very complete overview of The Gallery is located in a Gotic who have in the last few years given preference to established artists, Venetian art history through the The Foundation was created by Palazzo, Contarini Michiel, in front with few exceptions. The aim of the gallery is also to be space of con- ages. Found at the foot of the Peggy Guggenheim, who was of the Ca' Rezzonico Vaporetto vergence and comparison between these artists who in the past have Accademia bridge, on Tuesdays deeply in love with Venice, where stop, offering a very interesting col- had difficulty in finding spaces in which to gather and exhibit, which only visits can be made to the rich she lived for more than thirty years. lection of antiques forniture and meant they leaned towards a sometimes unproductive individualism. warehouses on the top floor of the Permanent exhibition: extensive paintings & contemporary Art. monastery designed by Palladio. The Foundation was set up upon the collection of 19th century paintings. Inaugurata il 27 settembre 2002 la Cube Gallery nasce dalla colla- Permanent exhibition: paintings by bequeath by Earl Giovanni Querini Temporary exhibition: Peggy and borazione di Massimiliano Bugno e Paolo Vincenzi e dall’esperienza DANIELE LUCHETTA Stampalia. This well preserved buil- Kiesler, the visionary and the collector. maturata in dodici anni di attività nella Bugno Art Gallery, rispetto alla Tintoretto, Veronese, Giorgione, S. Marco, 2513/a map: F7 guide ding is built in perfect and original Until August 2004. quale la Cube si differenzierà dedicandosi maggiormente ad artisti Bellini, Tiziano, Tiepolo... ph. +39.041.5285092 guide Venetian style and contains a full The Age of Michelangelo: the emergenti del panorama veneziano, nazionale ed internazionale, Temporary exhibition: French dra- Glass sculptures made from origi- library and fascinating picture gallery. Masterpieces from the Vienna con l’intento di ricucire una relazione tra i giovani artisti e le gallerie wings. From the drawings and print nal sketches by contemporary Temporary exhibition: Patrick Albertina Collection. Until 16 May private, che negli ultimi anni, salvo pochissime eccezioni, hanno pri- study of the Accademia gallery. artists. Mimran-Brahmatic. Until 4 July. Opening: 10.00-18.00 vilegiato la tradizione degli artisti già storicizzati. Obiettivo della gal- Until 20 June. Giulio Paolini, l’ora x. Until 30 May. Saturday 10.00 - 22.00 leria é anche quello di essere luogo di confronto per gli stessi artisti, Opening: 8.15-19.15 - Monday GALLERIA RAVAGNAN Opening: 10.00-18.00 Closing day: Tuesday che nella difficoltà di disporre di spazi espositivi e di aggregazione 8.15-14.00 San Marco, 50/a map: G6 Friday and Saturday until 22.00 Tickets: € 8.00 ph. +39.041.5203021 MUSEUMS hanno teso a rinserrarsi in individualismi non sempre produttivi. Tickets: € 6.50 MUSEUMS   Churches Our friend the Saint guide di Martina Mian Il santo amico aint Stae? He’s not had an Stae? Mai apparso Churches any days named after him. in nessun calendario. SYou won’t have heard of SDel resto, non si ricor- Schools any public holidays celebrated da nessuna festa popolare in his name anyway. And yet in celebrata in suo nome. Monuments Venice, he is one of the most Eppure a Venezia è uno dei famous saints. St Stae? “There, santi più famosi. S. Stae? City Listing on the Grand Canal, that’s the “Lì, sul Canal Grande, quel- church”. The reply your average la è la chiesa”. E’ la risposta Venetian is likely to give a tou- di qualsiasi veneziano ai turi- Chiese rist. In reality, St Stae (along sti. In realtà S. Stae rappre- Scuole with many of his peers) is senta l’emblema, non certo emblematic of the familiarity l’unico, della familiarità con Monumenti with which the Venetians trea- cui i veneziani trattavano i ted their saints, of their rela- propri santi, del loro rappor- Listing tematico tionship with religion. The to con la religione. church standing on the Grand La chiesa che sorge sul Canal Canal, in the S. Croce quarter, is Grande, in sestiere S. Croce, CHIESA DI SAN STAE dedicated to St Eustachius, who è dedicata a Sant’Eustachio, the Venetians, in their dialect, che i veneziani, nel loro dia- MARTYRDOM OF ST. BARTHOLOMEW - GIANBATTISTA TIEPOLO have always called St Stae. The letto, hanno, appunto sem- Contents San Stae might be fittingly defined as a great museum of 18th-century Venetian art. The origins of a church dedicated to pre chiamato S. Stae. church was completely renovated and decorated during that century by the hands of the St Stae in Venice can be traced Le origini di una chiesa dedi- greatest living masters. In the midst of the canvases depicting episodes in the lives of the back to a grey area somewhere cata a San Stae a Venezia si Special of the month: apostles, commissioned in 1722 by the aristocrat, Andrea Stazio, on the presbyter we find an interesting early work by Giambattista Tiepolo, the Martyrdom of St Bartholomew. The pain- between the second half of the perdono tra la seconda metà S.Stae Church: Martyrdom of St. Bartholomew ting dates to 1722, when Tiepolo was just 26 years old. It is representative of his youthful pro- 10th century and the early 12th del X secolo e l’inizio del Alberto Toso Fei: A book on mysteries of Venice duction and reveals the strong influence of Piazzetta. In the painting, Tiepolo conveyed the century. The old building, how- XII, ma la vecchia struttura Convento di S.Salvador: Telecom Future Centre powerful cruelty of the saint's martyrdom, skinned alive after being captured in Armenia. The compositional arrangement of the painting is created by the divergent gestures of the saint ever, was completely demolis- venne completamente demo- Agenda: Not to miss and his executioner, in an exquisite balance of opposing forces. The aging saint is in ecstasy hed in the mid-sixteen hun- lita alla metà del Seicento e and there would seem to be no clear trace of struggle between the two; the painting is fully dreds, then rebuilt by Giovanni ricostruita da Giovanni Highlight: resolved on the surface. Tiepolo's participation in the Baroque poetic is complete in this pain- Grassi, an otherwise unknown Grassi, architetto altrimenti OUR FRIEND THE SAINT ting, demonstrated by his use of vivid colours that make the flesh and the clothing glow, Saint Stae? He’s not had any days named creating a dramatic and suggestive scene and illuminating the hat of the executioner with architect. At this point the sconosciuto. after him. You won’t have heard of... bursts of scarlet and turquoise. history of the church of San Stae A questo punto la storia becomes intertwined with a della chiesa di San Stae si IL MARTIRIO DI SAN BARTOLOMEO - GIANBATTISTA TIEPOLO series of legacies. Credit for the intreccia con una serie di Appuntamento del mese: San Stae si può a ragione definire un grande museo del settecento veneziano. La chiesa venne infatti restaurata e internamente decorata in quel secolo ad opera dei più grandi first goes to the chief magistrate lasciti testamentari. Chiesa di S.Stae: Il martirio di S. Bartolomeo maestri in vita. Sul presbiterio, tra le tele raffiguranti episodi della vita degli apostoli commis- of Venice, doge Alvise II Moce- Il primo, grazie al doge Alberto Toso Fei: Un libro sui misteri veneziani sionate nel 1722 dal patrizio Andrea Stazio, troviamo un'interessante tela giovanile di nigo, who launched a competi- Alvise II Mocenigo, fu l’oc- Convento di S.Salvador: Telecom Future Centre Giambattista Tiepolo, il Martirio di San Bartolomeo. Il dipinto risale al 1722, cioè a quando tion for the reconstruction of its casione per bandire un con- Tiepolo aveva 26 anni ed è tipico della sua produzione giovanile, influenzata da Piazzetta. Agenda: Da non perdere façade. Domenico Rossi was corso per il rifacimento della guide guide Tremenda la crudeltà della scena, che rappresenta il martirio del santo, spellato vivo dopo la sua cattura in Armenia. L'impianto compositivo del quadro è creato dai movimenti diver- awarded the commission, pro- facciata che venne vinto da Editoriale: genti del santo e del carnefice, in un precario equilibrio di forze contrapposte. Il vecchio ducing a generously ornamen- Domenico Rossi con un pro- IL SANTO AMICO santo è in estasi, e non c'è traccia evidente di sforzo nella lotta tra i due, tutto si risolve in tal façade in keeping with spetto di gusto ancora palla- San Stae? Mai apparso in nessun calendario. superficie. L'adesione da parte di Tiepolo alla poetica barocca è in questo dipinto totale, Del resto, non si ricorda nessuna festa... anche per l'uso del colore fiammeggiante, che incendia le carni e le vesti rendendo la Baroque taste that, at the diano, ma abbondantemente scena drammatica e suggestiva, illuminando il berretto del boia a lampi rossi e turchesi. same time, remained true to decorato secondo il gusto CHURCHES CHURCHES Palladian principles. barocco.   VENEZIAENIGMA Thanks to: A short description of the important churches, schools, places of worship and city's monuments accompanied A book on mysteries of Venice CHURCHES with timetables, prices and events. CHORUS Una breve descrizione di importanti Museum of the city CITY LISTING Associazione Chiese di Venezia chiese, scuole, luoghi di culto e monu- info: +39.041.2750462 The Foundation for the menti della città accompagnata da Un libro sui misteri veneziani Churches of Venice CHORUS CHURCHES: orari, prezzi e manifestazioni. di Giorgia Gallina Santa Maria del Giglio S. M. Gloriosa dei Frari Madonna dell’Orto Seen from above Venice appears as Venezia vista dall’alto: un enor- Santo Stefano San Polo S. Pietro di Castello an enormous puzzle entwined with me cruciverba dove misteri, leg- Santa Maria Formosa San Giacomo dall’Orio SS. Redentore secrets, myths, and stories. An enig- gende, storie e cronache si incro- S. Maria dei Miracoli San Stae Gesuati ma that only partly unfolds secret ciano svelando i segreti che da S. G. Elemosinario Sant’Alvise San Sebastiano words and tales that have been jea- tredici secoli la città lagunare lously cherished by the city throu- conserva. Venezia è un enigma, La Vergine col bimbo by Bellini, sting, with its ship's hull shape and SAN POLO ghout the centuries. An engraving un rebus di parole e racconti Churches graves of Dogi and of captains of decorated beams. The church con- Campo San Polo map: E5 on one of the columns of the racchiusi e conservati nei secoli arms, monuments dedicated to tains several works belonging to ph. +39.041.2750462 Tribunal in the Erbarìa square in dalla città e dalle sue pietre. Chiese Canova and Tiziano. various periods, bearing witness to Rialto runs more or less like this : “Non dir di me Se di me non sai Opening: 9.00-17.00; this building's long history. “Do not talk about me without kno- Pensa di te e Poi di me dirai” a BASILICA DI SAN MARCO Sunday 13.00-17.00 To see: La Crocifissione by Paolo wing me, talk about me only after parlare è la colonna d’angolo di Piazza San Marco map: G6 Tickets: € 2.00 Veneziano, la pala by Lorenzo Ph. +39.041.5225205 Lotto, and the eucharistic theme having talked about yourself.” This palazzo del Tribunale in MADONNA DELL'ORTO cycle by Jacopo Palma il Giovane. is only one of the many enigmatic “Erbaria” a Rialto. Cannaregio, 3511 map: F1 Opening: 10.00-17.00; inscriptions treasured by the city’s Scolpita sulla pietra, riposa ph. +39.041.2750462 Sunday 13.00-17.00 walls and “masegni” (a Venetian una delle tante iscrizioni Built in the middle of the 12th cen- Tickets: € 2.00 word for “stone”). The nascoste a Venezia. “Le tury, it was rebuilt starting from young Venetian pietre di Venezia parla- 1399 and during the following cen- SAN GIOVANNI ELEMOSINARIO This church, built in the 9th cen- Chorus - The foundation for Chorus Vi invita a visitare i writer and jour- no. Basta solo ascoltar- tury. It is one of the typical Rialto, Ruga San Giovanni map:F4 tury, was renovated between the the churches of Venice - invites tesori d'arte conservati nelle nalist Alberto le”, è l’invito del gio- Venetian Gothic religious buil- ph. +39.041.2750462 end of 1300 and the beginning of The church of San Giovanni Toso Fei believes vane scrittore e gior- dings. The façade is rather like a the 14th century according to late you to visit the works of art trea- chiese della città. Elemosinario was founded before that every single nalista veneziano, basilica and the very luminous inte- gothic models. In 1804 the church sures in the churches of the Le sale del più incredibile rior is composed of a nave and two 1071, but nothing remains of the corner, alley, house Alberto Toso Fei The most famous Basilica or cathe- was extensively restructured under aisles. It was Tintoretto’s parish and primitive building due to the deva- town. The rooms of the most "museo" di Venezia sono a and square of Venice che della storia dral in Venice, it is one of the grea- the supervision of architect Davide he is buried there. stating fire that swept through the incredible "museum" in Venice Vostra disposizione per un has its own secret story dimenticata di test monuments in Europe. The Rossi. These works were so costly To see: works by J.Palma il Rialto area in 1514. The current to tell and he encourages Venezia ne ha exterior façades are decorated in that, after escaping the Napoleonic are now available to see you viaggio entusiasmante alla Giovane and many prodigious building is completely immersed everybody to listen to fatto una pas- Byzantine style, with columns, bas- expropriations, the church found through an exciting discovery of scoperta di più di mille anni di works by J.Tintoretto. amongst the dense curtain of sur- what it has to say. The sione. Passione reliefs and coloured marble. On the itself having to sell off many of its Opening: 10.00-17.00; rounding buildings, to the point more than one thousand years of arte e storia. terrace stand four imposing gilded works of art. In 1930, after renova- advice conceals his true pas- che si palesa per la Sunday 13.00-17.00 that it is difficult to spot it. The Venetian art and history. You I capolavori pittorici e archi- bronze horses. All the arches of the tion and restoration works, the sion for the city’s forgotten seconda volta in un libro, Tickets: € 2.00 simple and somewhat classical inte- doorway are decorated with splendid wooden ceiling shaped will be able to admire the picto- tettonici creati dai più grandi history, which is however “VeneziaEnigma. Tredici secoli riors are richly decorated with mosaics from different artistic SAN EUSTACHIO like a ship's hull was returned to its rial and architectural masterpie- Maestri, come Veronese, Ti- clearly expressed in his new book di cronache, misteri, curiosità e many works - a testimony of the periods. The building has five large VULGO SAN STAE former splendour. The possibility “Venezia enigma. Tredici secoli di straordinarie vicende tra storia e special devotion of the schools of ces of the great masters such as ziano, Tintoretto, Palladio, Co- domes. The church is decorated S.Polo, Campo S. Stae map: F3 of comparing the works by G.B. cronache misteri, curiosità e straordi- mito” edito dalla casa editrice arts and trades that used the Veronese, Titian, Tintoretto, dussi da ammirare nei luoghi inside with gilded mosaics and trea- ph. +39.041.2750462 and Giandomenico Tiepolo - father narie vicende tra storia e mito” publis- Elzeviro di Treviso, e curato dal- church premises. sures representing stories from the Founded in the 12th century, it was and son - is particularly interesting. Palladio, Codussi in the very per cui erano stati pensati. hed by Elzeviro (Treviso) and edited l’editore Alessandro Tusset con To see: The altarpieces by Tiziano Bible. The floors are decorated rebuilt during the 17th century. At To see: The Apparition of the Virgin places they had been conceived Ora queste opere, e le sedi che by Alessandro Tusset in cooperation la collaborazione di Alessandra and by Pordenone and the frescoes with Cosmati floor mosaics. the beginning of the 18th century before Saint Giovanni Nepomuceno with Alessandra Tamberi. Four hun- Tamberi. Con più di 300 storie in the cupola came to light again for, with common and conti- le custodiscono, sono facilmen- To see: La Pala d'Oro, il Tesoro. the orientation was also modified by G.B. Tiepolo, Il ciclo della Via dred pages divided into six chapters racchiuse in 400 pagine suddivi- during the restoration works. nuous visiting hours. You will te visitabili con orari comuni e Opening: 10.00-17.00; with the construction of the façade Crucis by Giandomenico Tiepolo . Opening: 10.00-17.00; (one for each “Sestiere”) narrating se in sei capitoli, uno per sestie- Sunday 14.00-17.00 by Domenico Rossi facing the Opening: 10.00-17.00; become part of an ambitious continuati: un ambizioso pro- Sunday 13.00-17.00 over three hundred stories, myths and re, racconta le cronache e le leg- Tickets: free the church, € 2,00 La Sunday 13.00-17.00 Grand Canal. The church contains Tickets: € 2.00 project aimed at preserving the getto che Vi renderà protagoni- mysteries that have either been for- gende della città spesso dimenti- Pala, € 2,50 il Tesoro. Tickets: € 2.00 a veritable compendium of cultural heritage of the town. sti di un importante recupero gotten by most people or that are cate o assolutamnete sconosciu- Venetian 18th-century paintings SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO SANT’ALVISE BASILICA DEI FRARI The proceeds collected from the del patrimonio culturale della totally unknown to younger genera- te dalle nuove generazioni. Il including an early work by Tiepolo. C.po S. Pietro di Castello map: M6 Cannaregio, 3282 map: E1 S. Polo, 3072 map: E5 tions. The book “VeneziaEnigma” libro “VeneziaEnigma” è tradot- To see: works by Tiepolo, Ricci, ph. +39.041.2750462 ph. +39.041.2750462 sale of the tickets will help in città. I proventi realizzati sono ph. +39.041.2728611 is available in many languages. to in varie lingue. Piazzetta. Legend has it that the church was It was built starting from 1388, the restoration of the churches utilizzati infatti per il restauro This church is one of the most Opening: 10.00 -17.00; built on the ancient Olivolo island, after the miraculous appearance of of Venice. delle chiese di Venezia. Alberto Toso Fei, from Murano, was famous Venetian monuments Sunday 13.00-17.00 which was the first settlement of St. Louis Bishop of Toulouse, cal- born in Venice in 1966. Traveller and because of the masterpieces and Tickets: € 2.00 the inhabitants of Venice. The led Alvise by Venetians, to a noble journalist. A researcher of history and historical interest contained within. local custums, he has activated an SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO church is of great historical impor- woman called Antonia Venier. The It is an example of Gothic architec- internet site (www.venetianlegends.it) Santa Croce map: E4 tance and was Venice’s cathedral interior is a typical example of a ture in Venice between the 14th where one can contribute to the dis- ph. +39.041.2750462 until 1807. The façade is by convent church. It is composed of and 15th century and is laid out in covery and circulation of hidden or This church was probably built in Smeraldi, the interior is in the form one nave with the ancient 15th cen- unknown legends. the form of a Latin cross, compo- the 9th-10th century in the area of a Latin cross, with one nave and tury bark supported by columns guide sed of three naves and divided by guide called “Luprio” from which - two aisles and a large dome in the and barbicans, which directly con- Alberto Toso Fei, muranese, è nato a twelve huge pillars; the central nave Venezia nel 1966. Viaggiatore e gior- through various phonetic evolu- centre of the transept. nects with the convent nuns. contains the old choir stalls for the nalista. Studioso di storia e costume tions - the current name of Orio To see: Il Castigo dei Serpenti by To see: the ceiling entirely frescoed friars, the only example of a chorus locale, ha attivato un sito internet derives. The facade is Romanesque Pietro Liberi and the mosaic anco- by Torri and P. Ricci and the Ascent which has maintained its original (www.venetianlegends.it) dove and the interior is laid out as a na Tutti i Santi by A.Zuccato. to Calvary, juvenile work by Tiepolo. chiunque può contribuire alla sco- position and structure. Latin cross with three naves and a Opening: 10.00-17.00; Opening: 10.00-17.00; perta e diffusione di leggende To see: the ascona Madonna di casa large transept. the enchanting woo- Sunday 13.00-17.00 Sunday 13.00-17.00 nascoste. Pesaro and L'Assunta by Tiziano, Tickets: € 2.00 CHURCHES den ceiling is particularly intere- Tickets: € 2.00 CHURCHES   S. MARIA FORMOSA Sunday 13.00-17.00 Mocenigo by T. Lombardo designed by B. Longhena. The Castello, 5263 map: H5 Tickets: € 2.00 Opening: 9.00-12.30 / 15.30-18.00 church was consecrated in 1705. ph. +39.041.2750462 Sunday 15.30 -18.00 The façade, made of Carrara mar- According to legend, the church DEL SS. REDENTORE Tickets: free ble, is an example of the Baroque was founded in 639 AD by St. Giudecca, 195 map: F8 Venetian style; the interior is com- Magno, Bishop of Oderzo. It is one ph. +39.041.2750462 BASILICA DELLA SALUTE posed of one nave whose beautiful A JOURNEY of the earliest of eight churches Dorsoduro, 1 map: F7 vault, which collapsed in 1915 built in the lagoon during the 7th ph. +39.041.5225558 because of the explosion of an century. In the 12th century it was Austrian bomb, was frescoed by rebuilt in the form of a Greek into the future Gianbattista Tiepolo. cross. The shape underlines the To see: sculptures, gilt and polych- resettlement begun in 1492 by romatic decorations and the fine Mauro Codussi, the leading archi- marbles. Un viaggio nel futuro tect of the early Venetian Opening: 9.00-11.50 / 16.00-18.00 Renaissance. Codussi left it unfinis- Tickets: free hed on his death. In the interior, a Exhibition Space - Gli Spazi Espositivi One of the greatest examples of LA CATTEDRALE striking play of lights emphasises he Church and the Convent of a chiesa e il convento di S. VENETIAN ITINERARIES - ITINERARI VENEZIANI Palladio’s architecture and by some Isola di Torcello the centrality of the church and the San Salvador have witnessed the Salvador hanno visto crescere la With brief virtually animated films in 3D on real backgrounds, interesting vaults and domes. considered his masterpiece. It is a On 22 October 1630 the Venetian ph. +39.041.730084 15 of the main Venetian characters for customs, and art in To see: the famous Polittico by J. votive temple, devoted to the Senate decreed the building of a An 11th-century Venetian- birth of this city, through the period città, l'hanno seguita nel periodo Venice, tell their stories. Byzantine building in the form of a T L Attraverso dei brevi filmati di animazione virtuale in 3D su Palma il Vecchio, The Last Supper Redeemer. It was built as a result of large temple devoted to the Virgin of the intensive trade and commerce of the degli intensi traffici commerciali del by Leandro Bassano a motion carried by the Senate to give thanks for the survival of Romanic Basilica. This is the oldest sfondi reali, 15 personaggi tra i più famosi della storia, del costume e dell’arte a Venezia, raccontano le loro vicende. Opening: 10.00-17.00; after the plague that struck Venice Venice after the plague. The design monument of this type preserved in 16th century right up to today, developing '500 e ora sono diventati il simbolo del- Sunday 13.00 -17.00 in 1575. The classical façade is pla- is by B. Longhena. The church is the lagoon. The simple and solemn into a symbol of avant-garde technological l'innovazione tecnologica. Quella del- SPACE FOR GAMES - SPAZI DI GIOCO Tickets: € 2.00 interior is made up of precious ced at the top of a great flight of built in the form of a central plan, Telecom future Centre offers a play space where one can expe- steps. The interior is very sober, dominated by a huge dome with marble and gilt mosaics. innovation. The history of the former con- l’ex convento di San Salvador, dei suoi riment freely with new games, participating and exchanging S. MARIA DEL GIGLIO but impressive and solemn.. great arches. A magnificent stair- To see: the mosaics of the small vent of San Salvador, of its two cloisters and due chiostri e del refettorio che ospita- ideas using the fixed and mobile telecommunication systems. C.po S.M. Zobenigo map: F6 To see: works by D. Tintoretto, F. way leads up to the entrance. The apse on the right side and of the Telecom Future Centre offre uno spazio ludico dove speri- ph. +39.041.2750462 Bassano polychrome marble floor converges triumphal arch. of the refectory that gave a home to the va i Canonici regolari di Sant’ Agostino, mentare liberamente i nuovi giochi, che le telecomunicazioni fisse e mobili rendono partecipativi e scambievoli. Events: every year, the third Sunday on a central circle of five roses sug- Opening: 10.00-17.00 Augustinian friars, is Venetian history. è la storia di Venezia. Ricostruito come of July, the temple is the destina- Tickets: € 3.00 gesting the decades of the rosary. Rebuilt to its current state between 1506 lo si vede fra il 1506 e il 1534 il com- CALL THE VOICES - LE VIE DELLA VOCE tion of a Venetian pilgrimage. To see: Nozze di Canaan by J. The visitor can speak to a modern oracle that can foresee the day Opening: 10.00-17.00; Tintoretto, Pentecoste by Tiziano, SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE and 1534, the ecclesiastic structure was plesso ecclesiastico è completamente ahead. A place where famous people such as Einstein can be inter- Sunday 13.00-17.00 Byzantine Madonna of the 13th Isola di S. Giorgio map: H7 viewed or one can sail the trimarano with Giovanni Soldini. Tickets: € 2.00 completely integrated into the hustle and inserito nelle dinamiche cittadine. century. ph. +39.041.5227827 Il visitatore può parlare con un oracolo contemporaneo: una Events: every year on 21 November It is a magnificent work of holy bustle of the city. Splendid in its architecto- Splendido nel suo disegno architettoni- postazione che permette di intervistare personalità come architecture by Andrea Palladio, SANTO STEFANO the Venetians pay homage to the nic complex and in the interior decorations, co e nei decori interni, il convento di Albert Einstein o di guidare il trimarano di Giovanni Soldini. San Marco, 3825 map: E6 Virgin who saved Venice from the built between 1566 and 1610. The ph. +39.041.2750462 interior is in the form of a Latin halfway through the 1980s became a San Salvador è diventato, a metà degli WATER SHOW - TEATRO DELL’ACQUA plague. An amazing water display to stimulate emotions and reflect on The façade, built from 1678 to This is a magnificent example of Opening: 9.00-12.00 / 15.00-18.00 cross and it is laid out in three symbol for communications in the future anni Ottanta, un simbolo della comuni- 1682 is one of the most characteri- Venetian Gothic art. The 14th cen- naves, a central dome, a transept, the value of water itself set up by Stefano Boeri. Tickets: free Una installazione di Stefano Boeri, che alterna paesaggi stic creations of Baroque Venetian tury façade is decorated with a and an arched ceiling. The high with set up of the new telephone exchange cazione del futuro con l'inserimento acquatici in rapida e cangiante successione. art. The interior is composed of a splendid marble portal attributed altar, with the chorus behind it, is with digital electronic commutator. This is della nuova centrale telefonica numerica single nave of a simple appearance, to Bartolomeo Bon. The interior is BASILICA DI S.MARIA E DONATO splendid and solemn. THE COFFEE SHOP - LA BOTTEGA DEL CAFFE’ Murano, c.po S. Donato 11 map:N2 but it turns out to be a magnificent divided into three wide longitudi- To see: The Lost Supper and Manna just a first step. Today, Telecom Italia Lab, con commutatore digitale elettronico. A space for new technology inserted in a typical Venetian con- ph. +39.041.739056 art shop window. nal Greek marble naves, the from Heaven by J.Tintoretto, the text. From the 8th. century “cafè veneziano” to the internet cafè. One of the most beautiful located inside the two cloisters, the monu- Solo un primo passo. Oggi Telecom To see: Abramo che spartisce il presbytery has an interesting inlaid ancona La Purificazione della Uno spazio per le nuove tecnologie inserito in un contesto tipica- Venetian-Byzantine buildings of the mondo masterpiece by A.Zanchi, wooden choir stalls and the ceiling Vergine by J. Palma il Giovane mental halls, and the refectory of the for- Italia, all'interno dei due chiostri, delle mente veneziano. Dal settecentesco caffè veneziano all’internet cafè. 12th century. The exterior of the La Sacra Famiglia ascribed to is shaped like an inverted ship’s Opening: 9.30-12.30 / 14.30-18.00 mer monastery has mounted the exhibition sale e del refettorio dell'ex convento ha P.P.Rubens. Remarkable are The hull. hexagonal apse is very interesting, Tickets: free TWO STRIDES INTO THE FUTURE - DUE PASSI NEL DOMANI both for its architectural beauty Telecom Future Centre. A gateway to the allestito Telecom Future Centre. Una The apparatus allows one to draw without ink on a surface Stations of the Via Crucis, works by To see: La Lavanda dei Piedi and with a digital pen or again do some shopping by touching pro- several painters of the 18th century. Cristo nell'Orto by J. Tintoretto, Il and the wealth of its decorative ele- S. MARIA DELLA PIETA' future and to the new communication tech- porta sul futuro, sulle nuove tecnologie ments. Five columns of Greek mar- ducts virtually. Opening: 10.00 -17.00; Battesimo di Cristo by Paris VIVALDI’S CHURCH Apparati consentono di disegnare senza inchiostro con una ble divide the interior into three nologies. The experimental frontiers and della comunicazione. Frontiere speri- Sunday;13.00 -17.00 Bordone. Castello, 3701 map: H6 penna digitale, fare la spesa toccando oggetti virtuali e ricono- Tickets: € 2,00 Opening:10.00-17.00; naves. The wooden ceiling looks ph. +39.041.5231096 research into innovation displayed in this mentali e ricerche sull'innovazione scere gli oggetti attraverso una mano artificiale. Sunday 13.00-17.00 like an overturned ship’s hull. The 15th century original church SANTA MARIA DEI MIRACOLI Tickets: € 2,00 To see: the mosaic floor with decorative was rebuilt in the middle of the show use theme itineraries to help the visi- esposte in questa mostra che, attraverso THE “CENACOLO” (Dining hall) - IL CENACOLO Cannaregio, 6063 map: G4 patterns and symbolic pictures of animals. 18th century by Massari. The clas- tors open a ‘new’ gateway to this magnifi- percorsi tematici, aiutano il visitatore ad The themes in object are: Developing an intelligent home, Opening: 09.00-12.00 / 15.30-18.30 mobility trends, and tourism. ph. +39.041.2750462 BASILICA DEI sical façade with an impressive por- cent city. aprire una "nuova" porta di questa città. The church was built between 1481 Tickets: free I temi trattati sono: “Gli sviluppi della casa intelligente”, “Le ten- SS. GIOVANNI E PAOLO tal and the interior, built in the denze della mobilità”, “Il turismo”. and 1489 by Pietro Lombardo to Castello, 6363 map: H4 DEGLI SCALZI form of an oval plan, with an house the miracle-working image of ph. +39.041.5237510 Cannaregio, 54 map: D3 arched ceiling is one of the most the Virgin by Nicolò di Pietro It was built between the 14th and ph. +39.041.715115 beautiful churches of the 18th cen- venerated by Venetian people for 15th centuries and is the largest tury. Thank to the cooperation of I her thaumaturgic power. The faça- church in Venice. Its particular Virtuosi dell'Ensemble di Venezia de is covered with carefully selec- atmosphere may be inherited from and Le Putte Veneziane di Vivaldi, ted coloured marbles and porphyry the time when it was used for the the church can be used as a concert guide panels. The high altar (the only obsequies and burials of the Doges. hall. Music is also the theme of the altar) is decorated with statues. Because of that, the church is cal- superb frescoes on the ceiling. San Marco, 4826 To see: the vault with its decorated led the Venetian Pantheon. The To see: La Carità sculpture by E. Campo San Salvador caissons represents Profeti e façade has an impressive portal; the Marsili and, on the ceiling, Le 30124 Venezia Patriarchi, work by V.delle Destre, magnificent interior space is in the Virtu' Cardinali and a beautiful Opening: 10 am - 6 pm Lattanzio da Rimini, Pier Maria fresco representing Il Paradiso by form of a Latin cross, has three Closing Day: Monday and Gerolamo Pennacchi. naves and a polygonal apse. Built by the Carmelites and dedicated G.B.Tiepolo. Free Entrance Opening: 10.00-17.00; CHURCHES To see: Monumento al Doge Pietro to Saint Mary of Nazareth, it was Opening: See programme  ground is prohibited. No pla- vano, eccome. ying football, no roller skating, Eppure, questo parco dei no cycling, no diving into the divertimenti, è vietato. Vie- water. The police, as tolerant tato giocare a pallone, corre- as they are, are required to re con i pattini e le biciclette, enforce the city laws that keep vietato tuffarsi in acqua. the peace. Heavy fines for Vigili, per dire il vero molto anyone who can’t produce ID tolleranti, impongono le at the officers’ request, i.e. ordinanze comunali che practically everyone. tutelano la quiete pubblica. In January this year, the Multe salate per chi, quasi Municipality of Venice took a sempre, non ha carta di iden- census of the population: there tità da mostrare alle forze were 4,046 inhabitants bet- dell’ordine. ween the ages of 5 and 14. A gennaio di quest’anno il Eeny There were 22,553 between 60 Comune di Venezia censiva and 90 years of age. The odds la popolazione in città: gli are not exactly in the kids’ abitanti con fra i 5 e i 14 anni favour. The younger genera- erano 4.046. Quelli da 60 a tion is in danger of becoming oltre 90 anni erano 22.553. meeny extinct under the weight of the Lotta impari quella dei protests of the elderly who ragazzini, che rischiano di won’t stand for noise under estinguersi sotto il peso delle their ancient windows (and proteste degli anziani che, can we really blame them?). forse giustamente, non tolle- Risking extinction, though, are rano rumori sotto le antiche miny the age-old “giochi da campo” - finestre. mo the games played in Venice’s Ma il rischio è l’estinzione

Ambaraba roken windows at the etri rotti, se va male. worst. If you’re lucky, Se invece le cose gira- Bthe ball is confiscated Vno per il verso giusto and duly punctured. Venice is a il pallone è requisito e poi natural football field. No cars, bucato. Venezia è un campo CORPUS DELICTI cicicocò doorposts just begging to be da calcio naturale. Niente In his book “I giochi a Venezia, tra campi e campielli dall'Ottocento”, the Venetian journalist Leopoldo Pietragnoli talks di T. T. used as goalposts. Open spaces macchine, portoni che si tra- about a top record in the seizure of footballs. L. Pietragnoli writes foto di Grazia Fiore you can charge around on rol- sformano presto in porte da that in 1949, traffic wardens, alerted by old people, seized 1,975 ler skates and bridge steps to football. Spazi liberi su cui footballs. Sixteen people have been fined by the local police for for- bidden games on public streets. be mastered. A fantastic place schettinare senza freni, scali- Bikes and balls the city laws prohibit shoot to rush around on a bike, swer- ni dei ponti compresi. across Venice’s paving stones. In truth, the ban ving to avoid pedestrians at the Un posto spettacolare dove I CORPI DEL REATO is violated on a daily basis. Leopoldo Pietragnoli, giornalista veneziano , nel suo libro “I giochi a last second. And then there’s correre in bicicletta schivan- Venezia, tra campi e campielli dall'Ottocento”, racconta di un the water. Not exactly a crystal- do all’ultimo momento i pas- record assoluto di sequestri di palloni da calcio. “Nel 1949 -scrive Biciclette e palloni proibiti da ordinanze comu- Pietragnoli- i vigili urbani, allertati dagli anzianotti, sequestrarono clear pool, but dads will swear santi. E poi l’acqua. Non 1.975 palloni. Negli ultimi due anni la polizia municipale ha elevato nali scivolano sui masegni veneziani. Il divieto è that youngsters used to dive off certo una piscina d’acqua in totale 16 contravvenzioni per giochi proibiti sulla pubblica via”. in realtà quotidianamente violato. the bridges at the drop of a hat. cristallina, ma, giurano i

SPECIAL And yet, fun in this play- padri, i tuffi dai ponti si face- SPECIAL   squares - traditions that have degli antichi giochi da home. Of course, Venice is no no in gruppo quando sono NO-NOS FOR THE CHILDREN been handed down from chil- campo, quelle tradizioni che longer the mine of inventive- più grandi. “No football allowed in the squares of Venice, in the lanes, foot- dren beginning school to those passano di mano in mano dai ness and ‘poor’ entertainment Il campo è il legittimo dopo- paths and squares under the Municipality, in private areas serving as public right of way, or in parks and gardens open to the public. who aren’t old enough to go bambini che cominciano ad it once was - where a broken scuola: ci si abbandona al There is a further ban on any group or individual games, involving yet. Late spring, two in the andare a scuola e quelli che broom handle or glass or terra- gioco prima di proseguire throwing equipment or objects, which might annoy or disturb other people, or endanger them, or damage public or private afternoon, Campo San Polo: l’età scolare ancora non ce cotta marbles or even just bott- verso casa. Certo,Venezia property, buildings of historical or artistic interest or parts of them. the square is awash with voi- l’hanno. le tops or the heels off an old non è più quella fucina di In the squares and narrow lanes of Venice, there is also no ces, sounds, colours and peo- Ultime giornate di primave- pair of shoes were all that were inventiva e divertimenti cycling, no roller skating or use of any similar toy or sports equipment liable to annoy or endanger other people, damage the ple. Lots of children are cha- ra, due del pomeriggio, needed to have fun. ‘poveri’, fatti con un manico street or disturb the peace. Sports activities such as tournaments, sing each other around and campo San Polo: il campo Four in the afternoon, Campo di scopa rotto o con delle races and similar recreational activities carried out in private or shouting, as many mothers, brulica di voci, suoni, colori San Giacomo dall’Orio: drawn biglie di vetro o terracotta o leased areas, in the immediate vicinity of houses, clinics, hospitals, communities, places of worship and educational facilities, must grandparents and babysitters e persone. Tanti bambini si on the ground with coloured semplicemente con tappi di be over by 11pm and, between the 1st of March and 30th of gather in the shade of trees or rincorrono e gridano, altret- chalk, we can see the traces of bottiglia o tacchi di vecchie September, cannot be held between 1pm and 3.30pm. The offi- cer is authorized to confiscate balls, roller skates and other play- by the benches to keep an eye tante mamme, nonni e baby the ‘campanon’, one of the scarpe. things and hold them at the station. The offending items shall be on them and chat. Bikes and sitter si radunano all’ombra oldest Venetian games that has Quattro del pomeriggio, returned only once the relevant fine has been paid”. (taken from balls the city laws prohibit degli alberi o in prossimità managed to survive along with campo San Giacomo the Municipality of Venice’s bylaws). shoot across Venice’s paving delle panchine per sorveglia- ‘piera alta’. As the words dall’Orio: disegnate a terra stones. In truth, the ban is vio- re e chiacchierare. “Am”, “Salam” and “Nepa” are con gessi colorati si notano le lated on a daily basis. Judging Biciclette e palloni proibiti shouted out, a number of girls tracce del ‘campanon’, uno from the small number of bicy- da ordinanze comunali sci- jump so as not to tread on the degli antichi giochi veneziani cle fines and few confiscated volano sui masegni venezia- marks on the ground, whilst a che resiste nel tempo insieme balls in recent years, even the ni. Il divieto è in realtà quo- group of boys frantically look a “piera alta”. Al grido di local police don’t have the tidianamente violato e sem- for a step or something off the “Am”, “Salam” e “Nepa” heart to order children to have bra che neppure la polizia ground (the so-called ‘piera alcune bambine saltano evi- their fun in the designated municipale se la senta di alta’ or high stone) to ‘save’ tando di calpestare i segni a areas. Three in the afternoon, imporre ai bambini di sfo- themselves from their playma- terra, mentre un gruppo di Campo Santa Margherita: the garsi in spazi riservati, viste te in hot pursuit. Five o’clock ragazzi cerca freneticamente thump-thump of a ball kicked le poche contravvenzioni alle in the evening, Ponte dei Tre un gradino o qualcosa di repeatedly against the shutter biciclette e i pochi palloni Archi: some children dive off sopraelevato (la ‘piera alta’ pulled down by a shopkeeper confiscati negli ultimi anni. the top of the bridge. It’s not appunto) per ‘salvarsi’ dal on his lunch break, who Tre del pomeriggio, campo very often you’ll see anyone compagno che li rincorre. angrily chases the boys off with Santa Margherita: rimbomba swimming in the canal now, Cinque di sera, Ponte dei Tre the ball under their arm. A il monotono rumore di un another bit of prohibited fun Archi: alcuni bambini si tuf- ritual repeated with a degree of pallone ripetutamente calcia- like football and bikes in the fano dalla cima del ponte. È annoyance every afternoon: to contro la serranda abbas- square. Actually, the best bit is raro assistere oggi a un «Andè a zogar da ‘naltra parte sata del negoziante in pausa, not the sport itself but the fact bagno in canale, divertimen- (go and play somewhere che infuriato fa fuggire i that it’s not allowed. to anch’esso proibito come il else!)» is the shopkeeper’s cry. ragazzi con la palla sotto il The Venetian canals nowa- calcio e la bicicletta in But in Venice, somewhere else braccio. Un rito che si ripete days, though, are not particu- campo. Il gusto infatti non is always another ‘campo’: the con un certo dispetto ogni larly inviting and the only peo- sta tanto nel gioco, quanto I DIVIETI PER I BAMBINI square is a meeting point, a pomeriggio: «Andè a zogar ple generally reckless enough proprio nel proibito. I canali “Nelle piazze e campi di Venezia, nelle vie, marciapiedi e piazze place synonymous with sociali- da ‘naltra parte (andate a to take part in the diving are veneziani sono però ormai del Comune, negli spazi privati soggetti a servitù pubblica di pas- zing, playing, recreation, giocare altrove!)» urla il those celebrating their gradua- poco invitanti e gli unici saggio, nei parchi e giardini aperti al pubblico è vietato il gioco del pallone. Sono altresì vietati quei giochi, collettivi o individuali, friendship, noise, creativity, negoziante. tion, urged to jump into the temerari a cui sono riservati i che mediante il lancio di attrezzi o oggetti possono recare mole- music etc.. It’s more than a Ma a Venezia non c’è ‘naltra greenish waters by the eupho- tuffi sono i soli goliardi neo- stia o disturbo alle persone o mettere in pericolo l'incolumità delle stesse nonché danneggiare proprietà pubbliche o private ovve- park, more than just a square, parte che non sia il ‘campo’: ria of the moment and a gene- laureati, incoraggiati a get- ro edifici d'interesse storico o artistico o parti di esse. È inoltre vie- it’s an original, metaphysical il campo è ritrovo, socializza- rous dose of alcohol. tarsi nelle acque verdastre, tata nei campi e calli di Venezia la circolazione dei velocipedi, dimension where play is born, zione, gioco, svago, amicizia, Seven o’clock in the evening, dall’euforia del momento e l'uso dei pattini a rotelle o di qualsiasi altro similare attrezzo di gioco o sportivo che possa recare molestia o pericolo alle perso- evolves and dies. And the chil- rumore, creatività, musica. Campo San Polo, Campo da qualche ‘ombra’ in più. ne, danno alla strada o disturbo alla quiete pubblica. Le attività dren love this space where the È più di un parco, è più di Santa Margherita, Campo San Sette di sera, campo San sportive quali tornei, gare e simili attività ricreative, che si svolgo- no su aree private o in concessione, nelle immediate vicinanze di grown-ups bring them as una piazza, è una dimensio- Giacomo dall’Orio, the water- Polo, campo Santa Marghe- case d'abitazione, cliniche, ospedali, convivenze e luoghi di infants and where they congre- ne originale e metafisica front near Tre Archi: the rita, campo San Giacomo culto, istituti d'istruzione non possono protrarsi oltre le 23.00 e nel gate with friends when they dove il gioco nasce, evolve e noise of children’s voices has dall’Orio, fondamenta vicino periodo dal 1° maggio al 30 settembre non potranno svolgersi dalle ore 13.00 alle 15.30. L'agente può trattenere e depositare are older. The square is the muore. E i bambini amano died away, replaced by the ai Tre Archi: il vocio dei presso il proprio ufficio i palloni, pattini ed altri oggetti di gioco legitimate after-school hang- questo spazio dove sono buzz of the adults’ as they bambini è cessato, sostituito che saranno restituiti, salvo che costituiscano corpo di reato, dopo il pagamento della sanzione amministrativa”. (dal regola- out, a place to indulge in accompagnati quando sono enjoy a ‘spritz’, the ritual eve- dal brusio dei grandi che si mento del Comune di Venezia).

SPECIAL games before making your way più piccoli e dove si raduna- ning aperitif. godono lo spritz serale. SPECIAL   BISANZIO CAMICERIA S. MARCO Calle Paradiso, 22 - Murano Calle Vallaresso - S. Marco, 1340 Ph. +39.041.739228 map: N2 Ph. +39.041.5221432 map: G6 CERIELLO SEGUSO VIRO Campo SS.Filippo e Giacomo, 4275 Piazza San Marco, 289-305 Ph. +39.041.5222062 map: H5 Ph. +39.041.2770739 map: G6 EL CANAPON MAZZEGA Salizada San Stae - S.Croce, 1906 F.ta da Mula, 147 - Murano Ph. +39.041.2440247 map: E4 guide Ph. +39.041.736888 map: M3 SHOPPING FIORELLA GALLERY NASON & MORETTI Campo S. Stefano - S. Marco, 2806 Ph. +39.041.5209228 map: E6 Via Serenella, 12 - Murano Accessories Ph. +39.041.739878 map: M3 H.C. INTERNATIONAL The first european PALESA GALLERY Calle dei Fabbri - San Marco, 1066 specialist of sunglasses Piazza San Marco, 145 Ph. +39.041.5227156 map: G5 Antiques Ph. +39.041.5229338 map: G6 At Palesa galleries you will find a HIBISCUS wide collection of original products Calle de l’Ogio - San Polo, 1060 Jewellry & Watches of the ancient ‘muranese’ traditions. Ph. +39.041.5208989 map: F5

SALVIATI Boutique & Griffe Fondamenta Radi, 16 - Murano Ph. +39.041. map: N2 Handicraft SEGUSO GIANNI F.ta Serenella, 3 - Murano Ph. +39.041.739005 map: M3 Foot wear VENINI Piazza San Marco, 314 Ph. +39.041.5224045 map: G6 VIVARINI Offering you innovative and colourful womens wear; hand made jewel- www.solaris.fr VENEZIA: F.ta Serenella, 5/6 - Murano San Marco, 5044 Ph. +39.041.736077 map: M3 lery, scarves, bags and many “one-off” C.po S. Bartolomeo pieces. ph. +39.041.2413818 Books and Music LA COUPOLE Libri e musica Calle XXII Marzo - S.Marco, 2366 info shopping Ph. +39.041.5224243 map: F6 LIBRERIA FILIPPI Opening time: 10 a.m. - 7.30 p.m. I negozi sono aperti dalle 10 a.m. alle Casselleria - Castello, 5284 LA TOUR Calle Larga S. Marco, 287 The listing proposes a directory of 7.30 p.m. Segue una selezione dei Ph. +39.041.5235635 map: G5 Ph. +39.041.5225147 map: G6 the best and original stores, divided migliori e particolari esercizi com- Thematic bookshop: History, Culture according to product category. merciali divisi per categoria mer- and Traditions of Venice. POT POURRI’ It is a complete list, edited by VM ceologica. Una vasta panoramica in Ramo dei Fuseri - S. Marco, 1811/m G Ph. +39.041.2410990 map: F6 anesha staff, able to satisfy all your require- grado di rispondere a qualsiasi esi- VIVALDI STORE F. dei Tedeschi - S. Marco, 5537/40 ments. genza: il tutto garantito da VM. Ph. +39.041.5221343 map: G5 VOGINI STYLE / LORO PIANA Ruga Rialto • San Polo 1044 • Venice 30125 • Italy C. de l’Ascension - S. Marco, 1257/A FRUTTAEVERDURA tel/fax 0039 041 5225148 • e-mail: [email protected] Accessories C.po SS.Apostoli - Cannaregio, 4451 Clothing Ph. +39.041.5222573 map: G6 Accessori Ph. +39.041.2411572 map: G4 In spite of the name is a wide collection Abbigliamento Boutique - Griffe BORSALINO of original and coloured accessories! AL DUCA D'AOSTA Calle del Lovo - San Marco, 4822 Mercerie - S. Marco, 4945/46 ARMANI JEANS Ph. +39.041.2411945 map: G5 Ph. +39.041.5220733 map: G5 Calle Goldoni - S. Marco, 4485 Antiques Ph. +39.041.5236948 map: G5 COCCINELLE Antiquari Mercerie - San Marco, 4958 BLUMARINE Ph. +39.041.2770658 map: G5 Frezzeria - S. Marco, 1674 ANTICHITA’ CESANA Ph. +39.041.5206063 map: G6 Calle XXII Marzo - S.Marco, 2070 Ph. +39.041.5227789 map: F6 CALVIN KLEIN JEANS Calle Goldoni - San Marco, 4599 PIETRO SCARPA Ph. +39.041.5202164 map: G5 Venezia London Calle Gambara - Dorsoduro, 1023 Mercerie San Marco, 4958 44, South Molton Street Ph. +39.041.5239700 map: E6 DIESEL STORE tel. 041.2770658 tel. 020.74917414 Located in the heart of Venice it has Salizada Pio X - San Marco, 5315/6 Ph. +39.041.2411937 map: G5 Verona London Glass Art always been a glamorous datum point Via Mazzini, 56 13, Duke of York Square for women and men top fashion, offi- DOLCE & GABBANA tel. 045.592051 tel. 020.77307657 Arte del vetro cial supplier for classic, tailoring and Mercerie - San Marco, 223/226 guide Coccinelle is the brand that offers sport fashion brands. Ph. +39.041.5287933 map: G5 guide Milano Paris today’s woman the most suitable ARS CENEDESE MURANO Via Manzoni, ang. via Bigli 326, Rue St. Honoré array of coordinated accessories for Piazza S. Marco, 40 EMPORIO ARMANI Exclusively designed jewels, handcrafted with an array of tel. 02.76028161 tel. 01.44553211 AMINA-MI every occasion. Ph. +39.041.5225487 map: G6 Calle dei Fuseri - San Marco, 4459 Calle dei Fabbri - S. Marco, 989 precious gems, exotic and unique “Ganesha” an unforgettable Ph. +39.041.5237808 map: F5 experience! Firenze Praha Ph. +39.041.5221414 map: F5 ˇ FURLA BAROVIER & TOSO Via Por Santa Maria, 49/r Zelezná, 22/494 BLACK WATCH FENDI tel. 055.2398782 tel. 02.24228203 San Salvador - San Marco, 4833 Fondamenta Vetrai, 28 - Murano Calle del Forno - San Marco, 4594 S. Marco, 1474 Come and visit us at RIALTO heart of the Venetian Venice... ph. +39.041.2770460 map: G5 Ph. +39.041.739049 map: N3

SHOPPING Ph. +39.041.5231945 map: F5 Ph. +39.041.2778532 map: G6 SHOPPING   GIORGIO ARMANI LE ZOIE Calle Goldoni - S. Marco, 4412 Calle dei Botteri - S.Polo, 1566 Palesa Gallery Ph. +39.041.5234758 map: G5 Ph. +39.041.2758694 map: F4 ORIGINAL IDEAS FOR YOUR Piazza San Marco, 145 GUCCI GANESHA SHOPPING EXPEDITIONS. Ruga Rialto - S. Polo, 1044 ph./fax +39.041.5229338 Mercerie - San Marco, 258 Ph. +39.041.5229119 map: G5 Ph. +39.041.5225148 map: F4 San Marco - Mercerie, 4862 HENRY COTTON’S ph./fax +39.041.5225940 Campo S. Luca - S. Marco, 4574 ULTIMATE www.palesagallery.com Ph. +39.041.5228485 map: F5 IDEE ORIGINALI E SPIRITOSE HERMES PER IL VOSTRO SHOPPING. Procuratie Vecchie - S. Marco, 127 Ph. +39.041.5210117 map: G6 KENZO shopping Ramo dei Fuseri - S. Marco, 1814 Ph. +39.041.5205733 map: F6 Exclusively designed jewels, hand- KRIZIA crafted with an array of precious Mercerie - San Marco, 4948 gems, exotic and unique “Ganesha” Ph. +39.041.5212762 map: G5 an unforgettable experience! LACOSTE Mercerie - San Marco, 218 MISSAGLIA Piazza San Marco, 125 Ph. +39.041.5237678 map: G5 Ph. +39.041.5224464 map: G6 LOUIS VUITTON SALVADORI C. L. de l’Ascension - S.Marco, 1255 Mercerie - San Marco, 5022 Ph. +39.041.5224500 map: G6 Ph. +39.041.5230609 map: G5

LUISA SPAGNOLI SWATCH STORE Mercerie - San Marco, 741 Mercerie - San Marco, 4947 Ph. +39.041.5237728 map: G5 Ph. +39.041.5228532 map: G5 MALO C. delle Ostreghe - S. Marco, 2359 Eyewear Ph. +39.041.5232162 map: F6 Ottica MISSONI Calle Vallaresso - S. Marco, 1312/N SOLARIS 123 Ph. +39.041.5205733 map: G6 C.po S.Bartolomeo - S. Marco, 5044 Ph. +39.041.2413818 map: G5 PAL ZILERI 1|DIOR Mercerie - San Marco, 4928 Provocation, extravaganza, and exalting of luxury by Ph. +39.041.5229020 map: G5 “A trip into this Dior’s new fascial shape sport sunglasses. a colourful PRADA STORE SOLARIS Campo S. Moisè - S. Marco, 1469 C.po S.Bartolomeo - S. Marco, 5044 - Venezia world” Ph. +39.041.5283966 map: G6 2 QUEEN OFFERING YOU INNOVATI- ROBERTO CAVALLI | VE AND COLOURFUL Calle Vallaresso - S. Marco, 1316 Watch with a handmade mosaic frame in the WOMENS WEAR; HAND Ph. +39.041.5205733 map: G6 best tradition of Venice. MADE JEWELLERY, SCAR- ANTICA MURRINA VENEZIANA SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Available in the best Venetian shops. VES, BAGS AND MANY Calle XXII Marzo - S. Marco, 2098 Solaris shop leader in optics field: a ‘ONE-OFF’ PIECES Ph. +39.041.2778509 map: F6 wide selection of the best brand of sun-glasses with more than 1000 3|ST. TROPEZ BAG SPRING - SUMMER 2004 TRUSSARDI UOMO DONNA A new idea from Coccinelle: a suede bag and a Ruga Rialto near models and 70 different marks. Rialto bridge Spadaria - San Marco, 695 coloured scarf that becomes the interchangeable S. Polo 1060/1061 Ph. +39.041.5285757 map: G5 handle of the bag. 30125 Venezia VALENTINO COCCINELLE tel/fax: Handicrafts Mercerie 4958, S. Marco - Venezia +39.041.5208989 Corte Foscara - S. Marco, 1473 4 5 HIBISCUS Ph. +39.041.5205733 map: G6 Artigianato VERSUS 4|SARACEN SHIELD Frezzeria - S. Marco, 1725 ATELIER FLAVIA Perfectly formed, the line of its shape is similar to Ph. +39.041.5289319 map: G6 Campo S.Lio - Castello, 5630 those Ottoman shields. Ph. +39.041.5287429 map: G4 VENETIA STUDIUM Jewellers Calle Larga XXII Marzo 2403, S. Marco - Venezia VENETIA STUDIUM Gioiellerie 5|ANGELA COOK COLLECTION JALLITS Calle XXII Marzo - S. Marco, 2403 A unique collection handcrafted in natural amber. BULGARI Ph. +39.041.5226953 map: F6 GANESHA Calle XXII Marzo - S. Marco, 2282 Thruogh an alert resilience, here is an Ruga Rialto 1044, S. Polo - Venezia Ph. +39.041.2410553 map: F6 extraordinary collection comes from Articoli da regalo CARTIER the artistic partimony left by Fortuny. 6|MARIA CALDERARA COLLECTION Campo S.Zulian - S. Marco, 606 Handmade necklaces of glass pearls . guide e di arredo Ph. +39.041.5222071 map: G5 JALLITS HIBISCUS S. Croce, 2268/a Ruga Rialto 1060/1061, S. Polo - Venezia GIOIELLERIA CHIMENTO Ph. +39.041.713751 map: F4 Campo S. Moisè - S. Marco, 1460 Easily reachable from Rialto’s bridge, 7|“ARLECCHINO” GLASSES Ph. +39.041.5236010 map: F6 Jallits means handicraft from all over Multicolor Murano Glasses exclusively made for VENEZIA the world; particular gift ideas, alter- Palesa Gallery. S. CROCE 2268/A GIOIELLERIA CODOGNATO PALESA GALLERY San Marco, 1295 native fashion accessories, shop fit- 6 Ph./Fax +39.041.713751 7 Piazza San Marco 145, S. Marco - Venezia ULTIMATE SHOPPING Ph. +39.041.5225042 map: F5 ting and interior decoration.   Until May 30, 2004 Every day: 10 - 12.30 / 15 -18 PALAZZO ALVERA’ S.Marco 3381 Venice, Italy ® Dining guide PATINA Restaurants AN EXHIBIT OF FINE PAINTED FURNITURE IN THE 18TH C. VENETIAN STYLE Bacari Patina, Inc. has recently introduced a new collection to their Patina®, uno dei marchi leader nella produzione di mobili fine painted furniture line. The new collection, inspired by the laccati, ha recentemente aggiunto una nuova collezione alle Pizzerie art of Pompeii, was designed by American designer Ann numerose proposte che offre da quasi vent’anni. La nuova col- Graham who was interviewed recently at the opening reception lezione si è ispirata al vivace stile della pittura Pompeiana ani- Pastry-shops of an exhibit of the new collection in Venice. mata da colori e toni caldi. La linea inedita è stata ideata dalla The exhibit which encompasses the loggia and piano nobile of designer americana Ann Graham la quale è stata intervistata & the City Listing the historic Palazzo Alvera’ in Venice, was install by renowned lo scorso marzo alla serata di presentazione della mostra orga- Venetian interior designer, Matteo Corvino. Mrs. Graham prai- nizzata da Patina Italia a Venezia. L'esposizione che ha luogo sed Mr. Corvino’s creative expression in dramatically arranging nella loggia e nel piano nobile dello storico Palazzo Alverà a and accessorize the display, using the magnificent fabrics of Venezia, è stata allestita dal rinomato interior designer vene- la BUONATAVOLA Rubelli, the beautiful rugs of Franco Dall’Orto, the delightful ziano Matteo Corvino e impreziosita grazie ai magnifici tessu- ceramics of Rigattiere, the silver frame of Carlo Piccolomini and ti di Rubelli, ai pregiati tappeti di Franco Dall’Orto, alle cor- Ristoranti the elegant floral arrangements of Franco Munaretto. nici d’argento di Carlo Piccolomini, alle deliziose ceramiche Since 1985, Patina has offered fine painted furniture that com- del “Rigattiere” ed alle eleganti disposizioni floreali di Franco Bacari bines aesthetic charm with Munaretto. Pizzerie the sturdiness to serve a Dal 1985, Patina® pro- vibrant household. The duce mobili decorati a Pasticcerie company has a well-esta- mano e finemente laccati blished reputation for qua- che uniscono al fascino Listing tematico lity workmanship and estetico la solidità neces- good taste. Hand-crafted saria per rispondere alle by an exclusive group of esigenze di un vivace RISTORANTE RIVIERA - Dorsoduro, 1473 artists and artisans in nor- ambiente domestico. thern Italy, the furniture L'azienda ha un’afferma- faithfully reflects the ta reputazione a livello A few minutes walk from the Accademia, and facing the Giudecca Canal, just grace, warmth and rich- mondiale per la qualità in front of the “Stucky Mill”, this welcoming and intimate restaurant offers an ness of 18th C. Venetian delle sue esecuzioni e per extraordinary menu of light regional dishes with seasonal and quality products, painted furniture. Using il buon gusto. I mobili which fully recalls the tastes of the Venetian culinary tradition. The restauran- skills, methods and mate- Patina®, rifiniti a mano t’s cellar includes a fine selection of the most famous Italian wines. Particular rials of the past, Patina da un gruppo esclusivo di attention is also paid to the high quality of olive oil used for cooking and also has carried on the tradi- artisti ed artigiani del available for dressing and seasoning your dishes. In this case, the varieties avai- tion of painted furniture nord Italia, riflettono lable are a biologic oil from Tuscany, two delicate oils from the Garda area and with the fineness of lines, fedelmente la grazia, il from Liguria, and a fruity oil from Sardinia. On the first sunny days of Spring, wealth of ornamentation and exquisite finishes that have pro- calore e la ricchezza dei mobili laccati veneziani del Luca and Monica, the two young and passionate owners, will be delighted to ven such a pleasure to the eye and touch for centuries. This is Settecento. Questo è il secondo anno che Patina® presenta le welcome their guests in a splendid terrace. This extraordinary location also the second year that Patina has exhibited in Venice. sue collezioni a Venezia. Secondo Marylu Stevens, presidente offers the possibility to peacefully enjoy an untouched part of Venice. According to Marylu Stevens, President of Patina, “We needed di Patina, Inc., “Avevamo bisogno di una collocazione degna a venue worthy of our magnificent pieces; unlike the typical, ste- dei nostri magnifici articoli, diversa delle classiche e troppo A Pochi passi dall’Accademia, affacciato sul Canale della Giudecca, pro- rile furniture fairs of Paris and Milan. And what better place essenziali fiere del mobile di Parigi e Milano. Quale posto prio di fronte al Mulino Stucky, questo intimo ed accogliente ristorante propone un menù in grado di far assaporare i veri gusti della tradizione than the city that is the inspiration for our furniture and a palaz- migliore se non la città che ha ispirato il nostro design e un veneziana rivisitata in forma più leggera puntando sulla assoluta qualità e zo where the furniture seems an integral part of the surroun- palazzo dove i mobili sembrano parte integrante dell’ambien- seguendo la stagionalità dei prodotti tipici. La cantina presenta alcune dings and not a temporary guest.” The exhibit represents the te?” Il successo dell'esposizione è il risultato degli sforzi com- delle più significative etichette italiane e meritevole di lode risulta pure l’at- successful culmination of efforts from both sides of the piuti dall’azienda con sede centrale e centro creativo ad tenzione dedicata all’olio, esclusivamente extra vergine sia in sala che in Atlantic…the headquarters in the United States, and produc- Atlanta, e la progettazione-produzione in Italia controllata da cucina: da un toscano biologico a un delicato del Garda e uno ligure, pas- tion facility in Italy managed by Enrico Lenarduzzi. Admission Enrico Lenarduzzi. L’ingresso è gratuito. Per appuntamenti o sando per un fruttato sardo. Fin dai primi soli della bella stagione Luca e guide is free. For further information or arrange an appointment con- per informazioni: PATINA ITALIA S.r.l., telefono 0481 Monica, giovani ed appassionati proprietari, saranno lieti di accogliere i tact: Patina Italia at tel 0481 476096, email: patinaitalia@pati- 476096, email: [email protected] oppure per loro ospiti nella splendida terrazza, location straordinaria che offre la pos- naitalia.com or Patina, Inc (USA) at tel 404 233 1085, email l’America Patina, Inc, telefono 404 233 1085, email pati- sibilità di godere serenamente una parte ancora vera di Venezia. [email protected]. Please visit our web site: www.pati- [email protected]. Vi invitiamo inoltre a visitare il nostro naitalia.com. sito web www.patinaitalia.com. DINING  Traditional Cuisine Cucina Tradizionale International Cuisine Cucina Internazionale Bacari & Hostarie Bacari & Hostarie DINING Pizzerie Pizzerie CITY LISTING Coffee & Pastries Caffé & Pasticcerie A list, edited by the VM staff, of sugge- La guida per i buongustai: una accurata stions for gourmets: a careful selection selezione, proposta dalla redazione di of original and best appreciated VM, dei più originali e apprezzati ristoran- restaurants, bacari, pizzerias and wine ti, bacari, pizzerie ed enoteche dell’isola. bars in town. Each listing gives useful Ogni scheda è corredata dalle informa- information for an appropriate choice. zioni utili ad una scelta azzeccata.

Traditional king a lovely canal. He offers tuscan- nal Venetian, boasts of 15 years expe- RISTORANTE RIVIERA Cuisine venetian dishes as well as delicious rience and also offers specialities Dorsoduro, 1473 vegetables. Booking advisable. from the Sicilian Calabrian area. Late ph. +39.041.5227621 map: D7 A welcoming On the Zattere, near to S. Basilio, Tra Rialto e CARPACCIO Closed Sundays dinner available up to 1:00 a.m. restaurant with San Marco Castello, 4088/4089 map: I6 Open daily Monica and Luca will be delighted to a beautiful accogliente ph. +39.041.5289615 HARRY'S BAR serve to you specially prepared dishes inside garden ristorante con Along the riva Schiavoni, situated in S. Marco, Calle Vallaresso 1323 FIASCHETTERIA TOSCANA from their kitchen. Their pasta is Cannaregio, 5719 map: G4 situated suggestivo ph. +39.041.5285777 map: G6 homemade and the great menu inclu- the heart of Venice. An elegant ph. +39.041.5285281 between For over seventy years Harry’s Bar giardino retreat with a terrace and two dining Closed Mondays and at lunch- des fish specialties in addition to an has been one of the most renowned Rialto and interno. rooms inside with a splendid view of time on Tuesday excellent wine list. Outdoors, at this S. Mark’s. Potete gusta- the S. Mark’s basin. places in the world and is by now an intimate and elegant locale, custo- LA CARAVELLA Here one can re piatti tipici a institution in the splendid city on the mers enjoy a view towards the horizon Open daily Via XXII Marzo, 2398 map: F6 taste typical lagoon. Booking essential. and the wide terraces of the Giudecca base di ph. +39.041.5208901 Open daily fish and meat pesce e LA COLOMBA Open daily Canal. dishes. carne. S. Marco, 1665 map: F6 Closed Mondays ph. +39.041.5221175 DE PISIS BOCCADORO S. Marco, 1459 map: F6 Cannaregio, 5405/a map: G3 ph. +39.041.5207022 ph. +39.041.5211021 Local Our Gourmet restaurant De Pisis, The tavern is located in the beautiful Cuisine TUSCAN-VENETIAN CUISINE Ristorante recently rated as one the best restau- Campo Widmann. Under the ancient rants in Venice, has become a world- bower, you will taste excellent food San Marco 1809 - ph. +39.041.5285004 renowned destination for Venetians and wine and listen to good music. AL MONDO NOVO Castello, 5409 map: G5 as well as for visitors. The exquisite simplicity of the dis- ph: +39.041.5286252 Al Mondo Novo Open daily ches exalts the taste of the fish coming from our sea, perfumed, dry DO' FORNI and aromatic wines match the dishes S. Marco, 457 map: G5 creating a magic union. An artist’ meeting place for over fifty ph. +39.041.5232148 years, home of the prize for painting Do Forni restaurant is located in the Closed Mondays in post-war Italy in 1946. historical heart of Venice. It features BACARO LOUNGE BAR The refined and stimulating artistic traditional Venetian cuisine: diffe- S.Marco, 1345 map: G6 and cultural company of the restau- rent kinds of fish, mussels and shell- ph. +39.041.2960687 rant is on the same level as its gastro- fish from the Adriatic Sea. Brand-new Club fit with modern and nomic art, with the dual proposal of Open daily graceful touch design! It offers a wide exquisitely local cuisine and interna- selection of cocktails, international cui- Restaurant in the ancient historical tional class. LA RIVISTA sine dishes and typical venetian dishes. centre of Venice. Tasteful and intima- San Marco, 2398 map: F6 Open daily Open daily te premises, with their beautiful win- ph. +39.041.2401425 dows and high walls on which are Design restaurant with Depero origi- AL PIRON AL GRASPO DE UA pictures of italian and foreing artists. nal painting. Modern cuisine with www.residenzacannaregio.it S. Marco, 5094 map: G5 Venetian cooking with preference for some Venetian dishes. Carefully Cannaregio, 3217 map: E2 ph. +39.041.5200150 fish of Adriatic sea. A wine list of selected Italian wines. Ph. +39.041.5244029 Open daily great prestige. Outside a fine garden Closed Mondays with over 60 seats. RISTORANTE AL BRINDISI Open daily LA FELUCA Cannaregio, 307 map: D3 S. Marco, 3648 map: F5 Al Mondo ph. +39.041.716968 ph. +39.041.5235678 AQUARAMA REST & COFFEE LOUNGE Novo Dorsoduro, 1414 map: G4 ph. +39.041.5206601 Former paper-store now brilliantly Open daily transformed in a modern restaurant- Aperto tutti i giorni bar with a lovely Venetian touch. A historical Italian restaurant located Its mezzanine-floor gives warm and short walk from the Rialto Bridge, it welcoming feeling while maintaining Venezia, Castello offers traditional Venetian dishes. an elegant atmosphere. guide Salizzada S. Lio, 5409 Closed Mondays Closed Tuesdays guide Tel. 041/5200698 RISTORANTE DA IVO Traditional Venetian cuisine right in the Smart, cosy, liberty style place. AL MASCARON Tel. 041/5286252 San Marco, 1809 map: F6 historical centre of the city, facing the ph. +39.041.5285004 Located between Rialto and S.Marco, lovely campo S.Geremia. Easy reachable Castello, S. M. Formosa 5225 Fax 041/5207031 a short walk from La Fenice Opera ph. +39.041.5225995 map: H5 Mr. Ivo, the owner, entertains his clien- in five minutes walk from the station. DORSODURO, 1414 - PH./FAX +39.041.5206601 Open daily Closed Sundays DINING tele in a romantic atmosphere overloo- House. The cuisine, mostly traditio- DINING   A traditional Venetian RISTORANTE cuisine in the l cospetto di molti, il pesce San Pietro evoca memorie historical ancestrali, richiamando alla mente con la sua bizzarra centre of the CARPACCIO city. A short The monster Aconformazione le creature degli abissi preistorici. Ma Two intimate and elegant dining rooms stroll away from l’apparenza inganna: in realtà il San Pietro non è veloce né Tables in the open-air overlooking St. Mark basin the railway particolarmente aggressivo, non avendo armi particolari per station. offendere né per difendersi. Per essere un pesce dalle carni of cooking così gustose il San Pietro ha davvero poche armi di difesa: per scoraggiare l'avversario si limita a sollevare i lunghi e impres- sionanti raggi della pinna dorsale che portano alla base una Cannaregio, 307 Campo San Geremia - 30121 Venezia serie di larghi aculei appuntiti. Lo Zeus faber o pesce San tel. 041.716968 fax 041.795585 www.albrindisi.it [email protected] is coming Pietro, com'è comunemente chiamato da duemila anni a questa parte, è presente in tutte le coste mediterranee e nell'Atlantico orientale: mai numerosissimo, ha una maggior

Arriva il “mostro” della cucina concentrazione in Alto Adriatico, prediligendo i fondali fan-

a gosi e profondità comprese tra i trenta ed i duecento metri. I di Andrea Heinrich i Galileo pescatori della Serenissima, poco fuori dalle bocche di porto cucina tipica Un affettuoso ricordo a Otello paron de “Anna & Otello” che delimitano la laguna dal mare aperto, cacciano l’ambito r veneziana pesce, adottato in Venezia col nome di Sampiero. Le sue e n the eyes of many, St. Peter’s fish evokes ancestral memo- carni bianche, delicatamente saporite e pregiate, non ne t ries, its odd conformation recalling creatures of the prehi- fanno ingrediente da cucina popolare. Nonostante le notevo- s S.Marco, 3593 storic depths. But looks can be deceiving: in reality, St li dimensioni (mediamente ha una lunghezza tra i trenta ed i

o I Campo S. Angelo Peter’s fish is neither fast nor particularly aggressive, with no quaranta centimetri ed un peso che si aggira sui due chili), la Tel. 041.5206393 Closing day: weapons as such to offend or indeed defend itself. For a fish filettatura che ne viene fatta nelle pescherie produce un gran- Castello, 4088/4089 - Riva degli Schiavoni Tuesday Tel. 041.5289615 / 041.5224168 - Fax 041.5224191

H with such tasty flesh, the John Dory, as it is also known, is de scarto di materia: per le massaie dei quartieri popolari, Booking request www.ristorantecarpaccio.com - [email protected] rather short on defences: to discourage the opponent, all it costituisce trofeo ambito procacciarsi le ambite teste del does is raise the long, impressive spiny rays of its dorsal fin, Sampiero, da utilizzarsi nella preparazione di deliziose zuppe which have a series of wide pointy prickles at their base. The di pesce. La preparazione che maggiormente si presta all’ec- Zeus faber, more commonly known as St Peter’s fish for the cellenza di queste carni è anche la più semplice: si infarinano last two thousand years or so, is found in all the i filetti e li si indora per qualche minuto in un paio di ricci di Mediterranean coastal waters and in the eastern Atlantic: burro, salandoli appena. higher concentrations are found in the upper reaches of the Adriatic Sea, though never in great numbers, showing a prefe- Cannaregio, 3217 ph. +39.041.5244029 rence for muddy seabeds and depths ranging from thirty to two fax +39.041.2757952 hundred metres. www.residenzacannaregio.it Just outside the inlet that draws an invisible line between the lagoon and the open sea, Venice’s fishermen hunt the highly prized fish, which the city’s inhabitants have dubbed Sampiero. Its white flesh, delicately flavoured and much sought after, is not an ingredient to waste on common dishes. Despite its considerable size (averaging thirty to forty centimetres in length and weighing around two kilos), there is not much fillet left once the fishmongers have stripped away the unwanted bits: for housewives from the working-class neighbourhood, however, the coveted Sampiero heads are a

IN A NEW CONCEPT DESIGN RESTAU- great prize and soon find their way into a pot for a delicious RANT, OUR CHEF MARCO WILL BE fish soup. PLEASED TO SUGGEST YOU THE TYPI- CAL VENETIAN CUISINE PRODUCTS. The fineness of this flesh best lends itself to a recipe that hap- guide guide pens to be the simplest of all: fillets are dipped in flour and cooked with a couple of butter-curls for a few minutes to a gol- NEL RISTORANTE DAL DESIGN DI NUOVA CONCEZIONE LO CHEF den brown, salting only slightly. MARCO SARÀ LIETO DI PROPORVI I PIATTI TIPICI DELLA CUCINA LAGUNARE. DINING DINING Special thanks to Luciano.   ANTICHE CARAMPANE missed. Historical restaurant in Venice, ope- HOSTARIA GALILEO Rio terà Carampane 1911 map: F4 Closed Tuesdays ned since 1992, it offers typical C.po S.Angelo 3593 map: F6 ph. +39.041.5240165 Chinese cuisine. Chicken with ph. +39.041.5206393 SAN GIORGIO almonds and sweet and sour pork not Castello, 2185 map: I6 to be missed. Competitive prices and Bacaro ph: +39.041.5231993 prompt service. The restaurant is located along the Open every day 10.30-3.00/5.30-0.00 Riva degli Schiavoni, a short walk from St. Mark’s Square, it’s famous Arabian Jazz for its excellent venetian cuisine and FRARY'S its selection of italian wines. San Polo 2558 map: E5 Outdoors, at this intimate and elegant locale, Open daily ph. +39.041.720050 customers enjoy a view towards the horizon Closed Tuesday evenings DA POGGI and the wide terraces of the Giudecca Canal. The trattoria ambience, warm and Chinese At the Galileo our chefs offer you Cannaregio, 2103 map: F3 Closed Wednesdays intimate, and the enticing menu NANCHINO traditional Veneto Italian cooking Ph. +39.041.721199 Locale intimo e raffinato, all’esterno i clien- based on classic cuisine blend to crea- Calle dei Fabbri 1016 map: G5 accompanied by a fine selection of Open from 4 pm to 3 am ti possono godersi il tramonto nell’ampia te a truly memorable dining expe- ph. +39.041.5223753 Italian wines. Charming is the stal- terrazza sul Canale della Giudecca. San Marco 5546 - ph. +39.041.5285249 - www.bacarojazz.com rience. The restaurant’s gracious out- Closed Mondays lage right in Campo S.Angelo. door terrace provides the opportunity Hiddish Closed Tuesdays to dine under the stars when weather GAM GAM permits. OSTERIA ALLE BOTTEGHE Cannaregio, 1122 map: D2 S. Marco, 3454 map: E6 Closed on Sun. afternoon and Mon. ph. +39.041.715284 ph. +39.041.5228181 Closed Friday evenings and Saturdays LE BISTROT DE VENISE Open daily S.Marco, 4685 map: G5 Indian Ph. +39.041.5236651 SHRI GANESH LA COLOMBINA Just 2 mins walk from Venice Casino San Polo, 2426 map: E4 Cannaregio, 1828 map: E2 towards S.Lucia station. Typical ph. +39.041.719804 Ph. +39.041.2750622 Venetian cuisine lovely delivered by Closed Wednesdays Open daily chef Stefano. Home-made pasta, des- Japanese OSTERIA PANE VINO serts and unmissable fish dishes MIRAI C.lle dei Botteri - S.Polo,1544 map: F4 Ristorante a base di pesce accompanied by a classy wine list. Cannaregio, 227 map: D3 ph. +39.380.4108446 Booking appreciated. ph. +39.041.2206517 Open daily Open daily RISTORANTE AL BUSO Mexican Ristorante Riviera Dorsoduro, 1473 Zattere Tel. 041.5227621 San Giorgio IGUANA Castello, 2185 Riva Schiavoni - Venezia - Tel. 041/5231993 The Restaurant-Bar à Vins offers its S. Marco, 5338 map: G5 ph .+39.041.5289078 Cannaregio, 2515 map: F2 patrons carefully recreated ancient A unique chance to sample venetian ph. +39.041.713561 recipes from the last six centuries of cuisine just by the water under the Closed Mondays Venetian cuisine and Venetian folk Rialto’s bridge shadow. Selected fresh cuisine and a highly-selective wine Syrian and Egyptian fish prepared according to the oldest la colombina list featuring top grapes from Veneto SAHARA Specialità Venetian tradition. region. Open for late night dinner or Cannaregio 2519 map: F2 Cosy wine-bar located close to the Toscane e Venete rivedute Closed tuesdays drinks only. ph. +39.041.721077 Rialto fish market towards the rail Open daily Ampia selezione Open daily DA ROMANO station. It delivers top wines, specia- di formaggi e salumi Burano, P.zza Galuppi 221 lities and delicatessen from the Friuli Bacari region (do not miss the “Prosciutto da tutto il mondo LA PISCINA ph. +39.041.730030 & Dorsoduro, 780-782 map: E7 Closing day: Monday Hostarie crudo S. Daniele”). Open till late. ph. +39.041.2413889 BACARO JAZZ Closed Tuesdays enoteca Grande selezione AL GATTO NERO di vini San Marco, 5546 map: G4 Burano, Fond.ta Giudecca 88 ph. +39.041.5285249 ALLA BOTTE ristorante ph. +39.041.730120 San Marco 5482 map: G5 It is a restaurant placed in the ph. +39.041.5209775 di Barbani Bruno apertura dalle 18.30 alle 02.00 Burano island. It is well - known Closed Thursdays Cannaregio 1828 - tel. 041.2750622 - fax 041.2756794 - [email protected] for the creativity of its dishes and BENTIGODI for the collection of paintings on San Marcuola 1424 map: E2 the walls. ph. +39.041.716269 Closing day: Monday Closed Sundays

AL COLOMBO DO MORI Magic place with magnificent view San Marco, 4619 map: F5 S. Polo, 429 map: F4 over the Giudecca canal. Tea room ph. +39.041.5222627 ph. +39.041.5225401 with home made buiscuits and cakes. Located just a stone’s throw from the One minute away from the bridge in Closed Sundays Freshly prepared snacks, sandwiches, front of the central post office in Rialto. Rialto bridge it has been famous since DA CODROMA salads and fruit options. This intima- the eighteenth century. A guest might Passionate love for jazz music has made te restaurant offers simple and tradi- Dorsoduro, 2540 map: C6 select such dishes as risotto with pore Bacaro Jazz a lovely meeting point. ph. +39.041.5246789 tional mediterranean cuisine. mushrooms and fish of Adriatic sea. Venetian and traditional cuisine. Hosts Closed Sundays Closed Mondays Open daily will be entertained on happy hours Ostaria - Wine Bar (4pm to 7pm). Wide range of cocktales BAGOLO AVOGARIA and spirits available up to 3 am. Santa Croce, 1584 map: E4 guide guide Dorsoduro, 1629 map: C6 ph: +39.041.717584 Ethnic Cuisine Closed Wednesdays Ph. +39.041.2960491 Style and modernity for the best Campiello Widmann Excellent Italian cuisine and music in AL PARADISO PERDUTO snacks in Campo S.Giacomo. Wide Cannaregio 5405/A an elegant international ambience Chinese Tel. 041.5211021 Cannaregio, 2640 map: E2 selection of wines and liquors, cheese make it one of the most renowned IL GIARDINO DI GIADA Closed Mondays San Polo, 1659 map: F4 ph. +39.041.720581 and delicatessen from Friuli. restaurants of the island. Not to be DINING DINING ph. +39.041.721673 Closed Wednesdays, Tuesdays Closed Mondays   Pizzerie over the Giudecca canal. Tea room & with home made buiscuits and cakes. HEIRATEN IN ITALIEN Pub This intimate restaurant offers simple BORA BORA and traditional Mediterranean cuisine. _t c|áv|Çt S.Marco, 5251 map: G5 Closed Mondays SERVICE Ph. +39.041.5236583 CAFFÈ AURORA UtÜ Vtyy¢ Open daily S. Marco, 3464 map: E6 WEDDING IN ITALY ph. +39.041.5286405 guide CONCA D'ORO &UTILITIES guide exáàtâÜtÇà Located in the splendid setting of Castello, 4338 map: H5 Campo Santo Stefano, this café is Wir organisieren für Sie Ihre Not simply a bar... not an overly - formal restaurant... ph. +39.041.5229293 Traumhochzeit! Closed Tuesdays especially frequented by Venetians. The gianduiotto drowned in cream We will organise a unique dream Closed Mondays is exquisite. SERVICE CITY LISTING wedding for you! DEVIL’S FOREST PUB Dorsoduro 780-782, Zattere - Venezia Open daily Ph. +39.041.2413889 - +39.041.5206466 S.Marco, 5185 map: G5 Fax +39.041.5227045 ph. +39.041.5200623 ph. +39.045.7210277 - fax. +39.045.7210544 [email protected] - www.lacalcina.com LA CAFFETTERIA CAFFÈ DEL DOGE www.heirateninitalien.com - [email protected] C.lle dei Cinque-S.Polo, 608 map: F4 VENICE AGENCY ph. +39.041.5227787 Internet Point Ph. 348.5802829 International selection of 100% NETWORK CAFE Fax +39.041.5931112 Arabic coffees. On site pastry shop, San Polo, 124 sweet and savory treats. Coffee based Ph. +39.041.5203132 map: F4 VENICE REAL ESTATE gelato and pastries, “Oriental” mineral S. Marco, 1130 INTERNET point waters and boutique. VENETIAN NAVIGATOR Ph. +39.041.5210622 map: F6 Open daily Castello, 5300 Ph. +39.041.2771056 map: G5 Tours www.venetiannavigator.com Escursioni All Computer Services English style pub located 1 min. walk Pastry VENICE INTERNET POINT e-m@il service, internet, colour & from Rialto bridge. Hosts will sample & Cannaregio, 149 ASSOCIAZIONE GUIDE TURISTICHE laserprints, laptop connection, Ph. +39.041.2758217 map: D3 the plain Guinnes draught line. Food Ice Shops S. Marco, 750 CD burning, etc. served for breakfast and lunch, Ph. +39.041.5209038 map: G5 snacks available until late night. PASTICCERIA DAL MAS Laundry Backgammon, sky sport tv live and Lista di Spagna, 150/a map: D3 CONSORZIO BATTELLIERI videomusic are also good reasons to ph. +39.041.715101 Lavanderie Apt - Padova OPEN NON STOP Ph. +39.049.8766860 from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. pop in… Two mins walk from S.Lucia station SPEEDY WASH Open daily towards Rialto. 37 years experience in Cannaregio, Strada Nova 1520 VENETIAN N@VIGATOR GRUPPO BATTELLI DEL BRENTA 30122 VENEZIA - Castello 5300 - Casselleria - Tel. e Fax 0412771056 home made pastries, cakes, and all the Opening: 8 am - 11 pm map: E3 Venetian specialities. Open up to 9:00 p.m. via Porciglia, 34 - Padova DUE COLONNE Ph. +39.049.8760233 Ristorante Enoteca San Polo, 2343 map: E4 Closed Tuesdays ph. +39.041.5240685 Limousine Service “BistrotCucina & Vino de - Arte Venise” & Cultura TURISTICA PENZO Closed Sundays, Saturday at lunch time MARCHINI Rent a Car Via degli Armeni, 1 - Cavallino San Marco, 2769 map: F6 Ph. +39.041.5300597 AE OCHE ph. +39.041.5229109 BELT LIMOUSINE SYSTEM S. Croce, 1552 map: E4 An old, traditional pastry shop; it is Via Trento, 66 - Mestre ph. +39.041.5241161 very much appreciated by Ph. +39.041.926303 Rent apartments Open daily Venetians for its pastries. INTERNATIONAL LIMOUSINE SERVICE Affittanze appartamenti Open daily AL NONO RISORTO P.le Roma, 468/b Ph. +39.041.5206565 VENICE APARTMENT S. Croce, 2337 map: F4 AL TODARO S. Marco, C.po S. Samuele 3226/b ph. +39.041.5241169 San Marco, 3 map: H6 Ph. +39.041.5931112 map: E6 Closed Wednesdays, Thursday at Ph. +39.041.5285165 Currency Exchange lunch time Only frozen by stroll, for many www.veniceapartment.com people the best one in all Venice, a Cambio valuta Cannaregio, 149 VIEWS ON VENICE Tel. +39.041.2758217 place for Venetians and tourists. MACCORP ITALIANA Fax +39.041.716185 Cafés Open daily S. Marco, 4267 [email protected] Isola del Tronchetto, 1 Ph. +39.041.2411149 map: F5 www.ve-nice.com Ph. +39.041.5281527 www.viewsonvenice.com CAFFÈ FLORIAN GELATI DA NICO Dorsoduro, 922 map: F7 EVENTS Piazza San Marco, 56 map: G6 TRAVELEX ph. +39.041.5225293 S. Marco, 5126 April 2004 ph. +39.041.5205641 Travels Agencies Open daily Very famous its stroll’s ice creams, Ph. +39.041.5287358 map: G5 The Real Estate in Venice Free admission the gianduiotto is superlative. Agenzie di viaggio CAFFÈ QUADRI Closing day: Monday POETRY 20 Apr ’04 - 5 pm LITERATURE 27 Apr’04 - 5 pm Real Estate Agencies Piazza San Marco, 120 map: G6 In-verse Itineraries The New Russian Writers AMERICAN EXPRESS ph. +39.041.5200041 TONOLO San Marco, 1471 SEVENTH PRIZE “LE BISTROT PAINTING 29 Apr ’04 - 5.30 pm Open daily Dorsoduro, 3764 map: D5 Agenzie immobiliari DE VENISE” 24 Apr ’04 - 5 pm One person exhibit by Serena Marcon. ph. +39.041.5237209 Ph. +39.041.5200844 map: G6 Award to a Venetian Artist who has Exhibit curated by Emanuele Horo- A landmark for people with a sweet HOUSE DEAL CONSULTING Venice GRAN CAFFÈ LAVENA distinguished himself in favour of “vene- dniceanu. The works will remain on Castello, 5274/a ARENA TOURIST tianness” in the cultural and artistic field. exhibit until 13 May 2004. Piazza San Marco, 133 map: G6 tooth in Venice, frequented by stu- Ph. +39.041.5209352 map: G5 Ph. +39.045.7210277 ph. +39.041.5224070 dents of the nearby university. Closed Mondays www.heirateninitalien.com Open daily MESTRE 2 IMMOBILIARE guide guide Viale S. Marco, 70/a - Mestre GLACIA Agency KELE & TEO “Bistrot de Venise” CAFFÈ LA PISCINA Ph. +39.041.5060220 S. Marco, 607 map: G5 S. Marco, 4930 Open for late dinner or drinks only Dorsoduro, 780-782 map: E7 ph. +39.041.5236059 NARDUZZI IMMOBILIARE Ph. +39.041.5208722 map: G5 Calle dei Fabbri, San Marco 4685 - ph. +39.041.5236651 ph. +39.041.2413889 A famous place to enjoy fabulous gelato. S. Marco, 4578 [email protected] www.bistrotdevenise.com - [email protected] Magic place with magnificent view Corso del popolo, 90 - Mestre veniceagency.com Open daily Ph. +39.041.5208111 map: F5 ph./fax +39.041.5931112

DINING Ph. +39.041.5312500 SERVICE   Mainland Events and OUTDOOR Curiosity april 04 - may 04 guide ANTIQUES MARKET AROUND

© Apt Treviso, Borgo Cavour, 70 exp. 4th Sunday Padova, Prato della Valle, 150 exp. 3rd Sunday GUIDA ALLA Brugine-Pd, Parco Villa Roberti, 250 exp. 1st Sunday Cadoneghe-Pd, P.zza S. Andrea, 20 exp. 2nd Sunday TERRAFERMA Piazzola S.B., P.zza Camerini, 400 exp. last Sunday Asolo-Tv, P.zza D’Annunzio, 90 exp. 2nd Sunday and the city listing Badoere-Tv, P.zza Indipendenza, 125 exp. 1st Sunday Godega S.U.-TV, Area Fiera, 230 exp. 3rd Sunday Mestre Porto Buffolè-Tv, Centro Storico, 250 exp. 2nd Sunday Mirano-Ve, via Gramsci, 90 exp. 3rd Sunday Riviera del Brenta Noale-Ve, P.zza Castello, 50 exp. 2nd Sunday Jesolo Valeggio S.M.-Vr, P.zza Carlo Alberto, 80 exp. 4th Sunday Treviso Villafranca-Vr, C.so V. Emanuele, 120 exp. 2nd Sunday Marostica-Vi, P.zza Castello, 135 exp. 1st Sunday Cortina Asolo... PETRARCA AND HIS TIME - MUSEI CIVICI AGLI EREMITANI, PADOVA - From 8 May to 31 July

In occasion of the 700th anniversary of the birth of the famous Italian poet Francesco Petrarca, who has ARCIPELAGOMUSICA, OPEN-AIR MUSIC FESTIVAL - ASOLO - The first Sunday on May 2004 become a symbol for the city, Padua organises a great exhibition that recalls the memory, the work and the relations of The Poet. The exhibition, that can be viewed in one of the rooms of the ‘Musei Civici agli Eremitani’ The crisp air blowing through the porticos in Asolo seems to Un’aria frizzante spira leggera tra i portici di Asolo e pare conci- has been entrusted to a scientific committee composed by internationally famous scholars. They will dee- harmonize its taste for culture and for the pleasures of the liare il gusto per la cultura con i piaceri della tavola, il mito del- pen the most interesting aspects of the poet’s work, culture and personality, particularly in relation to the table, for art and for its fascinating tranquillity. Qualities well l’arte con il fascino discreto del buen retiro a cui l’hanno eletta, period in which he lived in Padua. Among the 170 works on display in ‘Petrarca and his time’, there will also be a number of precious codes, lent by prestigious Italian and international foundations. known to famous artists and writers. Voices and sounds from da sempre, decine di celebri personaggi, artisti e letterati. Per all over the world will permeate every part of the city. Streets, un’intera giornata voci e suoni dal mondo invadono ogni ango- Sulle tracce di una presenza divenuta un simbolo per la città, in occasione del 700° anniversario della nasci- porticos, squares and gar- lo della città: strade, portici, piaz- ta di Francesco Petrarca, Padova organizza una grande esposizione che fa riemergere la memoria del dens will be the stage for ze e giardini ospitano concerti Poeta, della sua attività e delle sue relazioni. La cura della mostra “Petrarca e il suo tempo”, che sarà alle- original and suggestive affascinanti e originali per appas- stita nelle sale dei Musei Civici agli Eremitani, è stata affidata a un comitato scientifico composto da studio- si di fama internazionale che approfondiranno gli aspetti più interessanti dell’opera, della cultura e della per- concerts. Today, the sionati e curiosi. Oggi, dopo un sonalità del grande poeta, con particolare riferimento al soggiorno padovano. Nella mostra saranno espo- beauty of the villages decennio dedicato al recupero e ste circa 170 opere, tra queste raffinatissimi codici provenienti da prestigiose istituzioni e raccolte italiane ed appears renewed thanks al restauro di monumenti di gran- internazionali. to the recovery and resto- de valore storico e culturale, la ration of monuments of città appare rivitalizzata. great historic and cultural Selezionata dall’Anci (Asso- ITALIA QUOTIDIANA - PALAZZO SARCINELLI, CONEGLIANO (TV) - Until 15 June value. Asolo was chosen as ciazione Nazionale Comuni one of the most beautiful d’Italia) come uno dei borghi più From Giacomo Balla to Filippo De Pisis, from libero Andreotti to Nino Franchina passing via great personalities such as Giorgio De Chirico, Mario Mafai, Pericle Fazzini, Giacomo Manzù, Marino Italian villages by the belli d’Italia e insignita del premio Mazzacurati, Fausto Pirandello and Antonietta Raphael Mafai. The exposition ‘Italia Quotidiana’ “Anci” -the national asso- “Città veneta della Cultura 2003”, is composed of sixtyfive works, paintings and sculptures, belonging to the Modern Art national ciation of Italian municipa- per la prima domenica di mag- Gallery. Carried out at Palazzo Sarcinelli, the Conegliano’s Modern Art Gallery, it brings the great public to knowledge about top Italian artists’ opus. lities- and bestowed with gio la città offre ai suoi ospiti musi- guide guide the “Venetian city of culture 2003” Price. In visiting Asolo on ca etnica, medievale, jazz di strada e canzoni d’autore che la Da Giacomo Balla a Filippo De Pisis, da Libero Andreotti a Nino Franchina, passando per le grandi personalità di Giorgio de Chirico, Mario Mafai, Pericle Fazzini, Giacomo Manzu', Marino the first Sunday of May, guests will be welcomed by ethnic trasformeranno in un palcoscenico senza barriere, all’insegna Mazzacurati, Fausto Pirandello e Antonietta Raphaël Mafai. La mostra ''Italia Quotidiana'' si com- and medieval music, street jazz and famous songs. The origi- della contaminazione tra pubblico e artisti. L’originalità delle pone di sessantacinque opere, tra dipinti e sculture, appartenenti alle collezioni della Galleria nality of the music and the warmth of a large and enthusiastic proposte musicali e il calore di un pubblico appassionato e Nazionale d'Arte Moderna del Comune di Conegliano. Realizzata presso Palazzo Sarcinelli è un'e- sposizione di eccezionale valore che porta a conoscenza del grande pubblico opere di artisti ita- public make it one of the most interesting busker festivals, that numeroso, ne fanno uno dei più interessanti buskers festival, da liani importanti e significativi, che per motivi sia di spazio che di ripetitività non hanno trovato posto can be fully enjoyed in the enchanting setting of Asolo. godere nello splendido scenario della cittadina trevigiana. nelle altre sale dell'edificio. MAINLAND MAINLAND   Mestre Art & Culture Riviera del Brenta Shopping Hotel Piccolo MAINLAND Padova Dining Treviso CITY LISTING Entertainment Asolo...

atmosphere. Marcon “Il Burchiello” is situated on the Restaurant closed: Sunday LA OSTERIA banks of the river Brenta. The food P.zza IV Novembre - Marcon is spoken highly of in both national Mestre Wine Bar ph. +39.041.5950068 FIOR DI LOTO and international guides, for its pro- Mestre Mr. Renato will be happy to receive Via Einaudi, 17 - Mestre fessional approach to serving fish. LAGUNA RESTAURANT you in his new restaurant. ph. +39.041.957687 High class and well-stocked wine Spacious and confortable rooms Cocktail Lounge Viale Ancona, 2 - Mestre He offers meat, fish and vegetables list. Buses from P.le Roma towards open daily Via Moglianese,37 - 30037 Scorzè (VE) ph. +39.041.5840700 - fax +39.041.5840347 ph. +39.041.8296111 dishes from typical and internatio- Padova and Mira every 20 mins. Tea Room open daily Mestre nal cuisine. Classy wine list. closed Monday and Tues. evening Art & Music TRATTORIA ALLA CUCCAGNA closed: Monday Mestre Via Manin, 22 - Mestre Riviera del Brenta ALL'AMELIA ph. +39.041.970757 Mirano CA’ ROMEA GRILL&PIZZA “no smoking” Via Miranese, 111 - Mestre A historical inn, loved by professio- LEON D’ORO Via Romea, 41 Maharani ph. +39.041.913955 nals at lunch time. The inexpensive Via Canonici, 3 - Mirano ph. +39.041.5470026 closed: Wednesday local cuisine is served by Carlo and ph. +39.041.432777 Among the villas of the ‘Riviera del Gianni the managers. Restaurant-relais immersed in the Brenta’ the grill house Ca’Romea Mestre closed: Monday magic landscape of Riviera. Ex- offers top selection of meat and AUTOESPRESSO ecutive-chef Gianni delivers top dis- fish in a warm, pleasant, no-smo- Via Fratelli Bandiera, 34 - Marghera Mestre hes from Venetian typical, Folk and king atmosphere. Reasons to pop in ph. +39.041.930214 FRAL CAFE international cuisine. Warm and are also prompt service and good closed: Sunday Viale Garibaldi, 175 - Mestre cosy place, lovely furnishing and value for money. ph. +39.041.611145 ornaments make Leon d’Oro a new Ristorante Indiano Mestre Minimalist trendy interiors design. closed Tuesdays datum point in the Venice mainland. HOSTERIA ALLA PERGOLA FRAL café Wide range of international cock- open daily Oriago Via Fiume, 42 - Mestre OPEN DAILY FOR DINNER Via le Garibaldi% +., ! )#+.+ Mestre (VE) tails, excellent champagne/wine list, PIZZERIA AE OCHE ph. +39.041.974932 ph' ()&'#*+'"+++*, ! www'fralcafe'it juices, frappes, infuses, teas. Malcontenta Via Ghebba, 65 - Oriago A well-known restaurant which serves Via G. Verdi, 97/99 - 30171 Mestre (VE) Furnishing ! Ornaments ! Lighting by ARREDAMENTI BREDA Quarto d’Altino ! Venezia Breakfast available from 7:00 a.m., TANTRA CAFE ph. +39.041.5631402 ph. +39.041.984681 - +39.041.958698 meat-dishes. The wine list is excellent. snacks served up to 2:00 a.m. Every Via Colombara, 211/a - Malcontenta open daily Paolo and Davide (the chef) wait you week featuring a one-night event: ph. +39.041.5385035 in a lovely environment. painting, photography, sculpture Treviso closed: Sunday live dee-jay performances. Mira Porte TRATTORIA DA CELESTE Closed Sundays VECIA BRENTA Via A. Diaz, 12 - Venegazzù Hotel Ristorante Poppi Mestre via Nazionale, 403 - Mira Porte ph. +39.0423.620445 H PANBISCOTTO Mestre ph. +39.041.420114 closed: Mon. evening and Tuesday. P Piazza XXVII Ottobre, 40 - Mestre ZEN CAFE’ ph. +39.041.953399 Via Torre Belfredo, 110/112 - Mestre Mira WINE BAR www.panbiscotto.it ph. +39.041.953042 ANNA & OTELLO Venetian and international cuisine, Zen Cafe is a non-smoking lounge Piazza Vecchia, 36 - Mira Jewellry & Watches unmissable fish dishes appaired bar, with a thoroughly pleasurable ph. +39.041.5675335 ENOITECA with a high standard wine list is and unique atmosphere. The menu closed Monday and Tues. evening Gioiellerie e orologerie main temptation at Panbiscotto. offers Carpacci, sushi, cheese Mestre Pizza available at brunch time also. boards accompanied by jams and Mira CALLEGARO GIOIELLI GIARDINO Warm but essential design has conserves and other delicacies. RISTORANTE POPPI V.le Garibaldi, 66 - Mestre ESTIVO Via Romea, 80 - Mira Via Romea, 80 made this place been appreciated closed: Monday ph. +39.041.5340858 Gambarare di Mira by VIP since last few years. ph. +39.041.5675661 Scorzè ph. +39.041.5675661 closed on Mondays Mestre OSTERIA RISTORANTE PERBACCO Fax +39.041.5676482 GIOIELLI LEONARDO Mestre Via Moglianese, 37 - Scorzè Via Piave, 119 - Mestre MAHARANI ph. +39.041.5840991 ph. +39.041.935076 Via Verdi, 97 - Mestre ph. +39.041.984681 Typical Indian cuisine in an elegant Clothing atmosphere located right in the city Abbigliamento centre. Feauturing amazing top dishes, tandoori bread and meat and a Mestre vegetarian à la carte menu. Special It is the ideal place for those who 8MARZO P.zza Ferretto - Mestre Carnival menu on February. appreciate good Venetian cooking. ph. +39.041.983796 Ristorante - Hostaria Booking essential. Its positions only a few kilometres / RISTORANTE ! PIZZERIA 0 guide guide open daily from the sea ensures a plientiful Mestre Set by river Dese, in the green supply and wide variety of fresh AL DUCA D'AOSTA Mestre countryside, Perbacco is a charming Piazza XXVII Ottobre% *# “DANTE” shellfish and fish at all times. P.zza Ferretto - Mestre Mestre (VE) Traditional cuisine DANTE HOSTERIA place to sample typical venetian open daily ph. +39.041.983888 Meet and fish menu Via Dante, 53 - Mestre and traditional cuisine accompained ph' ()&'#*+'&,))&& ph. +39.041.959421 www'panbiscotto'it Local wines by selected Italian and international Riviera del Brenta Mestre A well-known restaurant apprecia- wines. The terrace over the ancient IL BURCHIELLO via Dante, 53 - Mestre (VE) BLACK WATCH Closed on Monday ted for its meat and fish menù pre- Via Venezia, 40 - Oriago P.zza Ferretto, 8 - Mestre ph. +39.041.959421 - www.hostariadante.it mill race is simply unique.

MAINLAND pared with special care in a original Closed saturdays morning and sundays ph. +39.041.472244 ph. +39.041.971308 MAINLAND   G I R O I N R I V I E R A SPECIAL RIVIERA

SPRING AT VILLA PISANI FROM THE SKY TO THE UNIVERSE From 5th to 11th May 2003 Villa Nazionale in Stra offers two outstanding exhibi- The Sky is the leading attraction of tions both held in the “Casa del Giardiniere”. They can be visited from Tuesday the spectacular exhibition that the Since 1942 to Sunday from 9 a.m. to 19 p.m. The first one, “The Architecture of the ’900 in Limonaie di Villa Nazionale Pisani at Eastern Veneto”, presents a thorough overview on the history of the Venetian Stra (on the banks of the river Brenta, between Padua and Venezia), host National & International Cuisine architecture in the past century. The second one, focuses on the the recovery of Villa Contarini da Ponte now Villa Paccagnella located in Presina di Piazzola sul from 20 March until 10 October 2004. Brenta. Villa Nazionale di Stra also hosts further appointments, that will be held on In the most intimate heart of one of the 10th and 11th May. The artistic itinerary “Neoclassical frescos and furniture the most imposing and alluring of ORIAGO DI MIRA (Venezia) in Villa Pisani”, which takes place along the apartments once lived by Eugenio Italy’s historic residences, and just a Via Venezia, 40 (SS 11) Beaurharnais and Napoleon, is scheduled on Saturday 10th May at 11a.m. stone’s throw from the villa’s huge Ph. +39.041.472244 Fax +39.041.429728 fish ponds and famous labyrinth, an www.burchiello.it - [email protected] enthralling world awaits to surround you. Set amongst a centuries-old curtain of vegetation it has an allure and mysteriousness that is at once familiar and alien, but certain to SPECIALITA’ PESCE fascinate: the sky. FINE SELECTION OF WINES Il Cielo è protagonista della spettacolare mostra che le Limonaie di 35 years experience in haute venetian cuisine Villa Nazionale Pisani a Stra (lungo il extraordinary choices of raw fish dishes naviglio del Brenta, tra Padova e fresh ingredients and quality fish Venezia), ospitano dal 20 marzo al Dal 5 all'11 maggio 2003 in Villa Nazionale di Stra il pubblico potrà ammirare 10 ottobre 2004. e visitare due importanti mostre, aperte al pubblico dal martedì alla domeni- Tangenziale Nel cuore più intimo di una delle più MIRA ca con orario 9-19. La prima "Architettura del '900 nel Veneto Orientale", ospi- imponenti ed affascinanti dimore PD S.S. 11 Riviera del Brenta Naviglio Brenta tata nella Casa del Giardiniere, propone un excursus lungo la storia dell'ar- storiche italiane, a pochi passi dagli chitettura veneta del secolo appena concluso. La seconda mostra, sempre Municipio specchi delle enormi pescherie e ospitata nella Casa del Giardiniere, ha come tema "Il salvataggio di Villa

dal celeberrimo Labirinto, circondati Novissimo Piazza Vecchia, 36 - Mira - Venezia

Contarini da Ponte ora Paccagnella a Presina di Piazzola sul Brenta”. Gli altri S.S. 309 Romea da una cortina verde plurisecolare, PIAZZA Via Canonici, 3 - Mirano appuntamenti si concentrano invece nel weekend del 10 e 11 maggio. Alle Ristorante VECCHIA ph./fax +39.041.5675335 Tel. +39.041.432777 ore 11 di sabato 10 maggio è in programma il percorso a tema "Affreschi e sarà meraviglioso immergersi in un ANNA & OTELLO Fax +39.041.431501 Chiuso il lunedì e il martedì a pranzo arredi dell'età neoclassica a Villa Pisani" che si snoderà all'interno degli mondo che ci circonda ma che di Chioggia www.leondoro.it Ravenna appartamenti abitati un tempo da Eugenio Beaurharnais e da Napoleone. fatto ci è sconosciuto: il Cielo.

The Brenta’s Villas With the blossoming of the first wisteria the VILLA FOSCARI "La Malcontenta" (without extra charge) at 3pm - and bank-holidays, 10am - 6pm) noble Venetians of old went up river to Malcontenta 4pm - 5pm - 6pm. On exposition Groups only on phone reservation. their summer residences. The Gradenigo, ph. +39.041.5470012 - +39.041.5203966 ancient farm tool, private park, big Pisani, Widmann and Rezzonico families Opening: April - October (tuesday wine vault and the ground floor. BARCHESSA ALESSANDRI dressed up their country dwellings on the and saturday) 9am - 12 pm Mira Brenta Riviera as if they were palaces on Other days only on reservation. VILLA WIDMANN FOSCARI ph. +39.041.415729 the Grand Canal, exploding into the Mira Porte Opening: Up to April saturday and grandeur for which there was too little VILLA GRADENIGO ph. +39.041.424156 - +39.041.5609350 sunday; from May open daily. room in the cramped spaces of the city. Oriago di Mira Opening: March (Sunday), April - Time-table: Up to April: saturday The villas on the Brenta Riviera, therefore, ph. +39.041.429631 October (Tuesday to Sunday) 10am - 2pm - 5pm, sunday 10.30am - represent the splendour of the Most Only for groups on phone reservation. 5pm (June - September 10am - 6pm) 12.30pm, 2pm - 5pm. From May: Serene Republic. And in the spring they 10.30am - 12.30pm, 3.30pm - 6pm. will be opening to the public. BARCHESSA VALMARANA VILLA PISANI VILLA BON TESSIER Mira Porte Strà Bastava fiorissero i primi glicini che le Riviera Giacomo Matteotti 6/7, antiche e nobili famiglie veneziane rag- ph. +39.041.4266387 - +39.041.5102341 ph. +39.049.502074 Mira Taglio, Mira. giungevano via fiume la loro residenza Opening: April - October (tuesday to Opening: Daily estiva. I Gradenigo, i Pisani, i Widmann, i sunday) 9.30am - 12.00pm, 2.30 pm- Time-table: April to September 9am - VILLA VELLUTI Rezzonico preparavano le loro magioni 5.30pm 6pm, October to March 9am - 4pm Sambruson di Dolo di campagna in Riviera come fossero i Opening: May and June, palazzi in Canal Grande, esplodendo in VILLA BADOER FATTORETTO VILLA FOSCARINI ROSSI September and October (every una sfarzosità troppo costretta negli Sambruson di Dolo Strà sunday). July and August on reser- angusti spazi della città. Le ville della Opening: May - June, September - ph. +39.049.9801091 vation for groups. Riviera del Brenta rappresentano così lo October (every sunday) Opening: Every week (tuesday to Time-table: 3pm - 7pm, with guide splendore della Serenissima. E in prima- July - August on reservation for groups. sunday). Time-table: 9am - 12pm, (without extra charge) at 3pm - vera si aprono al pubblico. Time-table: 3pm - 7pm, with guide 2.30pm - 6pm (saturday, sunday 4pm - 5pm - 6pm. Ca’ Romea Grill&Pizza 7 pm ~ 4 am Restaurant wine bar guide guide Vintage wines - champagnes - distilates Cocktail music show bar Free shuttle service for dinner reservation Closed on tuesday Via Romea, 41 - Mira (VE) Via Colombara, 211/a - Malcontenta - Venezia - Info: 800069627 ph. +39.041.5470026 ph./fax +39.041.5385035 - www.tantracafe.it - [email protected] Closed Tuesdays MAINLAND MAINLAND   USEFUL NUMBERS Denimark +39.041.5200822 HOSPITALS WATER TAXI P. Sabbioni Terminal +39.041.5300455 Police Emergency 113 Finlandi +39.041.5260930 Civile - Venezia +39.041.5294111 Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia +39.041.5222303 Tronchetto Car Park +39.041.5207555 Carabinieri 112 France +39.041.5224319 Fatebenefratelli +39.041.783111 Airport +39.041.5415084 Aeroporto Car Park +39.041.5415913 Fire Departmet 115 Germany +39.041.5237675 Umberto I - Mestre +39.041.2607111 Accident and Emergency 118 Greece +39.041.5237260 TOURIST INFORMATION TAX FREE SHOPPING Breakdown Service 116 Hungary +39.041.5239408 A.C.T.V. WATER TRANSPORT APT Tourist Board +39.041.5298711 Foreigners are entitled to receive back the USEFUL Dolo Highway +39.041.413995 value added tax that they paid if their pur- Road Police +39.041.2692311 Lituania +39.041.5241131 Call center +39.041.2424 Harbour Office +39.041.5205600 Malta +39.041.5222644 Hotels Association VE +39.041.5228004 chases are above. page Customs Netherlands +39.041.5283416 Hotels Association Lido +39.041.5261700 +39.041.5287866 RADIOTAXI CREDIT CARDS Airport info Norway +39.041.5231345 +39.041.5237774 Hotels Association Mainland +39.041.930133 +39.041.2609260 P.le Roma Credit card usage is widespread in Italy and Railway info Panama +39.041.2750788 +39.041.5265974 Flight Info +39.041.2609260 848.888.088 Lido di Venezia most stores and restaurants accept several Portugal +39.041.5223446 +39.041.936222 Uff. Bagagli Aeroporto +39.041.2609222 Mestre major credit cards. CONSULATES Russia +39.041.5232548 Marcon +39.041.5952080 PORTERAGE USA +39.02.290351 Slovenia +39.040.307855 Aeroporto Marco Polo +39.041.5416363 Piazzale Roma +39.041.5223590 AUTOMOBILE SPEED LIMITS Austria +39.041.5240556 Spain +39.041.5233254 Train Station +39.041.715272 Highway: 130 km/h, Main Roads: 90 km/h, ESSENTIAL INFORMATION Belgium +39.041.5224124 Sweden +39.041.5227049 GONDOLAS Populated Areas: 50 km/h. FOR GETTING AROUND Brazil +39.041.976439 Switzerland +39.041.5225996 Bacino Orseolo +39.041.5289316 CAR PARKS Chile +39.041.5093062 South Africa +39.041.5241599 San Tomà +39.041.5205275 Municipal Car Park +39.041.2727301 DRINKING & DRIVING RIFERIMENTI UTILI PER Cipro +39.041.2911911 Turkey +39.041.5230707 Consorzio Gondolieri +39.041.5228637 Garage San Marco +39.041.5232213 Allowable alcohol quantity in blood while dri- DESTREGGIARSI IN CITTA’ Czech Republic +39.041.5210383 United Kingdom +39.041.5227207 S. Maria del Giglio +39.041.5222073 Fusina -VE- Terminal +39.041.5479133 ving an automobile is 0,5 g/kg. A BCDEF GH I LM N

CENTRALINO OPERATIVO 24h con sistema GPS 4 ph. +39.041.5222303 NOLEGGIO MOTOSCAFI LUSSO PER CONGRESSI, TRANSFER, ESCURSIONI, TRASPORTO DISABILI. 5

7 WATER TAXI 8 CONSORZIO MOTOSCAFI VENEZIA S. Marco, 4179 - 30124 VENEZIA - Tel. 041.2406711 - Fax 041.2406700 www.motoscafivenezia.it - [email protected] Presente in:

APPARTAMENTI TERMINAL PORTO DI VENEZIA BED & BREAKFAST TOUR OPERATORS UFF.TURISTICI : AVA, AVAL, CATEV UFFICI ED ESERCIZI PUBBLICI AEROPORTO “MARCO POLO” CONSOLATI NIO s.r.l. AEROPORTO DI TREVISO AMBASCIATE via A. da Mestre, 19 - 30172 - Venezia-Mestre tel. +39.041.5454536 - fax +39.041.5454536 Alcuni Hotel nei quali è presente Venice Magazine direttamente distribuito dalla nostra struttura:

SAVOIA & JOLANDA GORIZIA Venice SOFITEL GRASPO DE UA La City Guide di Venezia. 5 - star HOTELS ***** SPLENDID SUISSE IL MERCANTE DI VENEZIA BAUER LA CALCINA 3 - star HOTELS *** G.H.PALAZZO DEI DOGI LA FENICE ET DES ARTISTES ABBAZIA LUNA BAGLIONI LA FORCOLA Mensile di informazione ACC.A VILLA MARAVEGE SAN CLEMENTE PALACE LA LOCANDA DI ORSARIA AL CANALETTO LISBONA distribuito free-press nei 4 - star HOTELS **** AL SOLE LOCANDA AI SS. APOSTOLI AI MORI D’ORIENTE ALA LOCANDA CA’ ZOSE AL PONTE ANTICO ALL'ANGELO LOCANDA CASA QUERINI migliori Hotel e nelle AL PONTE DEI SOSPIRI ALLE GUGLIE LOCANDA CASA VERARDO AMADEUS AMBASSADOR TRE ROSE LOCANDA OVIDIUS BELLINI AMERICAN LOCANDA S.BARNABA location più strategiche. BONVECCHIATI ANASTASIA LOCANDA STURION CA' DEI CONTI ANTICA CASA CARRETTONI LUX CA' PISANI ANTICHE FIGURE MALIBRAN CARLTON EXECUTIVE ANTICO DOGE MARCONI CAVALLETTO & DOGE ARLECCHINO MONTECARLO CIPRIANI ATENEO NAZIONALE COLOMBINA BASILEA OLIMPIA DUODO PALACE BELLE ARTI PAGANELLI GABRIELLI SANDWIRTH BEL SITO & BERLINO PANADA GIORGIONE BISANZIO PANTALON KETTE BOSTON (ROYAL S.MARCO) PAUSANIA ristorante LIASSIDI PALACE BRIDGE RIALTO LOCANDA VIVALDI CA' DORO SCANDINAVIA LONDRA PALACE CANAL S.CASSIANO CA'FAVARETTO MANIN CAPRI S.CHIARA METROPOLE CASANOVA S.GALLO MONACO & GRAN CANAL CASTELLO S.MARCO PALAZZO DEL GIGLIO CENTAURO S.MOISE' LA COLOMBA PALAZZO LA SCALA COMMERCIO E PELLEGRINO SPAGNA PALAZZO PRIULI CONTINENTAL S.SIMEON AI DO FANALI PALAZZO SANT’ANGELO DA BRUNO S.STEFANO PALAZZO VENDRAMIN DE L'ALBORO S.ZULIAN PRINCIPE DOGE TINTORETTO RESIDENZA CANNAREGIO DO POZZI TORINO Da oltre settant'anni SANT’ELENA EDEN TRE ARCHI SANTA MARINA FLORA UNIVERSO & NORD ritrovo e cenacolo SATURNIA & INTERNATIONAL GARDENA VIOLINO D'ORO di artisti, sede del primo

VILLA MARGHERITA VENEZIA premio di pittura dell'Italia Venice VILLA STUCKY VILLA DUCALE VILLA FINI del dopoguerra nel 1946, Mainland 3 - star HOTELS *** VILLA GIULIETTA AI PINI VILLA GOETZEN le sale di questo ristorante 5 - star HOTELS ***** ARISTON VIVIT VILLA CONDULMER BARCHESSA GRITTI hanno ospitato i pittori BELVEDERE TREVISO 4 - star HOTELS **** CENTRALE ALEXANDER CLUB HOTEL 4 - star HOTELS **** protagonisti del rilancio AMBASCIATORI FLY ASOLO GOLF CLUB ANTONY KAPPA BOLOGNESE VILLA PACE dell'arte italiana ed europea. www.venicemagazine.com BOLOGNA LA RESCOSSA CARLTON CAPITOL PALACE LOCANDA AI VETERANI CASTELBRANDO Oggi continua la tradizione... HOLIDAY INN LLOYD CONTINENTAL IL BURCHIELLO MONDIAL DUCA D’AOSTA LAGUNA PALACE & SUITES NUOVA MESTRE MAGGIOR CONSIGLIO LA MERIDIANA PALLADIO RELAIS MONACO For over 70 years LUGANO TORRETTA PARCO VERDE LA FENICE VILLA GIUSTINIAN MICHELANGELO PARIS VILLA VICINI PLAZA PIAVE it has been a meeting place POPPI PICCOLO 3 - star HOTELS *** Vuoi ricevere RAMADA PRESIDENT AL SOLE and a artistic coterie, TRITONE ROBERTA CAMPIELLO VILLA BRAIDA SAN GIULIANO CRYSTAL including in its membership VILLA FRANCESCHI TITIAN INN MAGNOLIA VeniceMagazine the best italian painters nella tua struttura per offrirla since 1946. gratuitamente ai tuoi ospiti ? Special thanks The "Colomba" has encouraged the protagonists of the rebirth Associazione Veneziana Azienda Veneziana Albergatori Albergatori Lido of italian and european art. Venice Hoteliers Associations Lido Hoteliers Associations Richiedi le copie a: Today continues the tradition... Consorzio Alberghi del Territorio Veneto Associazione Chiese di Venezia Hoteliers Association of the Venetian The Foundation for the Churches Mailand of Venice [email protected] San Marco 1665 - Piscina di Frezzeria - Tel. 041 5221175 - Fax 041 5221468