Text and photos Sababy Brandi Mueller Island — The Unspoiled Queen

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I loved Saba before I arrived. the northeast, with St. Eustatius and St. Kitts Throughout my dive travels, I had to the southeast. A week prior to my trip, I received a fan- occasionally heard about this mythi- tastic email from Sea Saba—the operation cal island of which not many knew. with which I would be diving—that had all Tales of a small dormant volcanic the details I needed (and some I had not island with healthy reefs, hiking trails considered) to prepare for my trip. It includ- ed packing suggestions (with a YouTube crisscrossing its eight square kilo- packing video link included), underwater meters, and excellent food. Those photography tips, current water tempera- who had been there raved about the ture, location tips including currency (US$), “Unspoiled Queen,” the name island- internet access (expect it to be slow), and airline weight rules (see packing video to ers and visitors had given the island, reduce your luggage weight). I clicked and it was added to my bucket list over to the website and was blown away with a few stars next to it. with the amount of information on it; it is probably the most thorough dive operation website I have ever seen. need, including a mini refrigerator and coffee- Being in the general vicinity maker, but the best part was the balcony with a View of , the of Saba and having a little Juliana’s Hotel view. I spent my free time sitting outside enjoying capital city of Saba (top); free time, I decided to finally After arriving in Saba, I was taken to Juliana’s the sunshine and cool breeze while admiring the Lounge at Juliana’s Hotel make my way to this island, Hotel in , the small village where ocean view. I could have spent hours out there (above); One of the bed- which has lingered in my div- most of the visitor accommodations and restau- relaxing and reading, but there was exploring rooms at Juliana’s Hotel ing dreams. Officially a spe- rants are. After being shown to my room, the first and diving to be done. (right); A pathway through cial municipality of the Neth- thing I loved there was the fact that there are After a full day of travel, I arrived quite late at Windwardside on Saba Island (far right); PREVIOUS erlands, Saba is part of the no keys at Juliana’s. Each room has a keypad the hotel. My first stop was to check in at Sea PAGE: Diver with school Leeward Islands and Lesser on the door, so there is no need to carry around Saba, which was just a short walk from the hotel, of creole wrasse at Third Antilles with St. Maarten to (and often in my case, lose) keys. My room was to confirm my diving plans for the next morning Encounter dive site the north, St. Barthelemy to very nice and clean, had everything one might and then I headed back to Tropics Café (the

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THE EXPEDITION DIVING SUIT A COMPLETELY NEW INVENTION FOR UNDERWATER PHOTOGRAPHERS, DIVE GUIDES, EXPEDITION LEADERS OR ANYONE WHO NEEDS BREATHABILITY, MOVABILITY, LOW WEIGHT AND SEVERAL OTHER FEATURES.

View of Diamond Rock (above) and flowers (left) on Sandy Cruz hiking trail

Getting around everyone was doing okay, asking I woke up my first morning in Saba if we needed dinner reservations and set up my camera, while made or anything else. I was pretty enjoying a coffee in my room. It impressed with the service already. took longer than normal though, This would occur every morning on because I could not help being the way to diving and on the way drawn to the ocean view out my back, and they were happy to sliding glass doors where I was help with spa reservations, restau- about to be diving. rant recommendations and any Making my way to breakfast other needs we had. at Tropics Café, I enjoyed home- The journey from Windwardside, made granola and yogurt with through The Bottom, and to the fruit and honey while anticipating harbor takes 10 to 15 minutes. my upcoming dives. I also had my There is only one road on Saba, eye on the Saba Spice-drenched known as “” which has French toast on the menu. Saba an interesting history of its own. The Spice is a rum-like liquor made with extreme terrain of Saba—think jag- THE EX2 BACKGROUND STORY “I developed this suit for myself. It is a completely new kind of suit, designed with only one restaurant at Juliana’s) for dinner. locally grown spices. ged cliffs, no flat patches, rainfor- purpose in mind - to make me perform at my best as an underwater photographer. Its The open-air restaurant sits next At 8:45 a.m., a mini-bus taxi ar- est and rocky landscape—made outstanding movability, breathability and flexibility creates a feeling of not wearing a dive suit at all. In fact, I put the suit on in the morning and take it off in the evening and the whole day I am to the pool but also overlooks the rived to pick up me and two other it difficult to develop the island. ready to jump into the water to take the picture of my life. All the details on this suit derive from specific needs. Pockets for all my photo gadgets, a radio and microphone holder to keep in ocean, and serves a variety of guests staying at Juliana’s. As we This also led to it being a favorite contact with wildlife spotters or guides and a pee zipper for speedy relief. The low weight and fresh seafood, burgers, pasta and headed out of town to the har- hideaway for pirates who would compact packing volume makes it easy to carry anywhere at any time” more. Exhausted from travel, I went bor, we stopped at the Sea Saba escape into the jungle where no - Göran Ehlmé Underwater photographer and head of Waterproof R&D to sleep quite early, ready to dive shop, where owner Lynn greeted one wanted to pursue them. www.waterproof.eu in the morning. us and checked to make sure Dutch and Swiss engineers in

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View of Saba Island (above) from Sea Saba’s dive boat (right)

the early 1900s claimed a road just pretty cool, and could not be built, but a Saban he was a wealth cinema of dreams resident, Josephus Lambert Hassell, of Saban history took a correspondence course in if you asked. civil engineering and started build- Arriving at ing the road in 1938. It took until the harbor, we 1958 before it was completed, and made our way driving on the winding, cliff-edge, to Sea Saba’s twisting-and-turning road is an boat; they have adventure in itself, and provides two 12m (40ft) gorgeous views, which we hap- vessels—the Sea pily photographed with our smart- Dragon and the phones each morning and after- Giant Stride— noon, as we made our way to the both customized dive boat. for scuba diving with tank racks, Dive sites Our kind and helpful taxi driver, plenty of storage space, a swim Customs House. Our first dive was Peddy, not only got us to and from platform right at water level for at a site called Customs House in the dive boat each morning, he easy entry and exit into the water. , which is just below 800 also would slow down to let us take My favorite aspect of the dive boat stairs cut into the side of the cliff photos whenever he noticed one was that they provided individual where supplies were once car- of us trying to capture the view on cooler bags for cameras, already ried from ships up to the Customs www.seacam.com our various forms of photography filled with fresh water to help pro- House, which is still there. It was gear. I believe he told me he was tect delicate camera gear. often women who carried goods seventh-generation Saban, which is up these stairs because the men

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RECYCLED FROM THE SEA

OceanPositive fourthelement.com by

Three juvenile spotted drums at Mon O’War (above); Lettuce leaf slug (left)

at one point. Today, it is popular few reef sharks made themselves to traverse these steps down to known as well. the beach (and back up again). Glad to not be accessing this Man O’War. Going a bit farther dive site via 800 stairs, I took a gi- around the island, our second ant stride (off the MV Giant Stride) dive was at Man O’War. Before into my first dive at Saba. Under- each dive, a detailed brief was water, the conditions were per- given, along with a map of the fect. No current, the water was site and a “Fish of the Dive.” The around 27°C (80°F), and there was guides told us they had been marine life everywhere. Right be- seeing a lot of juvenile spotted low the boat was black sand—all drums, so that was our fish to find. of Saba’s dive sites have dark, vol- Although this fish is one of my canic sand. Swimming away from favorites, I was using a wide-angle the boat, we came upon a huge lens, so I was not trying too hard to Hawksbill sea turtle on reef Aplysina archeri tube sponge on reef coral garden loaded with life. Sea spot them. fans and sponges colored the However, halfway through the three fingers. I had to go over and fins. Even though they were too few shots where all three were in area as fish swam around. A small dive, our guide gave me the look, and there they were: three small for my lens, I could not swim focus. were at sea fishing, and things hawksbill turtle emerged seem- signal for spotted drum (picture perfect baby spotted drums, with away without at least snapping such as a piano and even the ingly out of nowhere and came to someone pretending to play the their tiny dime-sized bodies and some proof. Back in my room, I Babylon. On day two of diving, Queen were carried up the stairs swim among us for a while, and a drums), and then he showed me extended black and white dorsal was surprised to have gotten a we visited a site called Baby-

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Diver in canyon-like formation (above) and hawksbill sea turtle (right) at Diamond Rock (far right), with Saba behind

lon, so named for overhanging so it was excit- volcanic rock formations that ing to dive it. give the illusion of swimming Moored a lit- under the Hanging Gardens of tle way off the Babylon. Saba itself is entirely rock, we swam volcano-formed, and so is much underwater of the underwater terrain. Rocky towards the formations make the dive sites structure. The interesting, with canyon-like swim- sandy seafloor throughs, mini walls and deep- was patrolled water pinnacles. by stingrays. Upon reaching Diamond Rock. Our second dive the pinnacle, was at the famous Diamond Rock, we started which is a lava-formed pinnacle circling it at the that emerges from the seafloor deepest point, moving shallower reef shark in-between the turtle around 33m (110ft) and out of the with each subsequent rotation. I and the fish, and I saw a large water. A popular resting place for had a moment in this dive when I grouper too. There was too much sun was beginning to set. We point either. The cryptic teardrop what looked like the spawn of a birds, their presence has coated was trying to photograph a school amazing marine life that I did not watched the sky turn orange crabs were out in full force. After sponge. I spent almost 20 minutes the rock with a white substance, of goatfish when I saw a turtle know where to point my camera and pink, and the island itself about ten minutes, I had taken watching this mollusk slowly eat its making it look diamond-like from swimming close on the other side (see: #SabaProblems). turn blood orange in the sunset. so many photos of them I had to dinner. There were also sleeping a distance. I saw Diamond Rock of me. Bringing my gaze back to We went out for a night dive, I was happy I went just to see start ignoring them. I also found parrotfish and bearded fireworms; from the airplane when I flew in, the fish school, there was now a leaving the harbor just as the that. Underwater did not disap- a flamingo tongue feeding on and while I had my nose glued to

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Bearded fireworm (above) and flamin- go tongue (left) feeding on a sponge on a night dive at Diamond Rock

these pinnacles with its shallow- est point at 25m (85ft). Descend- ing onto these seamounts is really neat because you descend into the open blue without being able to see the bottom until around 30m (65ft). We continued down and down, until we could make out the pinnacle’s shadow with fish flitting about. Sometimes, people argue that there is no fish this deep and not much color, but the seamounts of Saba defy that idea. Coral and sponges carpeted the rock pinnacle and flashlights (or in the flamingo tongue, other divers my case, strobe lights) lit up the saw several sharks cruise by. deep hues of ginger-orange and deep violet. Eels peeked out of this dive was that our no-de- Saba, I moved to Queen’s Gar- Twilight Zone. Saba diving is from crevasses in the rock, small compression time was too short. dens Resort and Spa located in known for its submerged volcan- fish found homes in the serrated The Bottom, which is the capital ic seamounts, and on day three, rock, and bigger fish swarmed Queen’s Gardens Resort and largest village of Saba. This we went to Twilight Zone—one of the pinnacle. The only downside Midway through my week on lovely property sits hillside with a Gray snapper at Diamond Rock (above); Parrotfish feeds on reef, with boxfish (left); Healthy reeflife, even at deep-water seamounts like Twilight Zone (top right)

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THIS PAGE: Scenes from Queen’s Gardens Resort & Spa. Outdoor dining at the resort (above); The view from the “Birds Nest” table (right); Delicious eggs Benedict (far right) and the Flaming Wheel of Parmesan pasta dish (left) are served at the resort’s restaurant; Saffron artisanal gin cocktail (lower right) made by famous mixologist Duco, at the lounge bar.

he put together a spicy chili pepper and basil gin and tonic for me. As if I was not already in love with the island. spectacular view of red-roofed, After also sampling white houses that are nestled a lavender gin and within the green valley and ocean tonic, which included beyond. The luxury boutique resort an ice cube of infused consists of 12 one-floor suites, lavender water, I finally many with semi-outdoor plunge made my way to dinner in the lush but with choices like local lionfish pools with views of the mountains, garden setting at the center of and lamb couscous, I pretty much valley and ocean. the resort. I enjoyed all my meals wanted to try them all and stay While checking out the property outdoors, which seemed to al- for several weeks. The restaurant before dinner, I found myself in ways be the perfect temperature is known for its “flaming wheel of their lounge bar, which also had with a slight breeze blowing, but parmesan” pasta parmigiano, a glorious view of the valley and with Duco—Queen’s resident meals were also available indoors which is prepared tableside and ocean. Sitting down, I noticed a artisanal gin creator. While telling at the elegantly decorated res- includes putting just-cooked gin menu. Gin is my post-dive-in- me about the 50-some choices of taurant in case of rain. pasta into a 72lb wheel of parme- moderation cocktail of choice, gin available at the small bar on The menu changed daily with san cheese. I can confirm it was and I soon found myself talking this tiny island in the Caribbean, only a few offerings each night, amazing. Airy and elegant bedroom at Queen’s Gardens Resort & Spa

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Reef scene at Third Encounter (above); Divers at the seamount known as The Needle (right); Yellow-headed jawfish (left)

be reserved several days or even me up as they passed through The actively hunting them. As it would weeks in advance. Bottom and took me down to the charge in like lightning, the school I am not usually one who sleeps boat with everyone else. would move in unison so quickly well my first night in a new place, we could hear the whoosh sound but I woke up my first morning More dive sites the school made when moving at Queen’s feeling like I was at Third Encounter / The Needle. This out of the trevally’s striking range. home (after realizing where I was, was an exciting day because we With the shallowest point being I thought it was even better than were diving Saba’s most famous 27m (90ft), we only had a few home). Soft light and a gentle dive site, Third Encounter (or The minutes before having to leave breeze filtered through the open Needle). This site is actually two the action. The larger seamount windows, and I made a Nescafe seamounts next to each other, was at 24m (80ft), so we had in my room. I could not remember with one being the narrower a few more minutes to explore the last time I felt so relaxed as I sat (needle-like) of the two. We de- before having to return to the on my couch overlooking the val- scended into the deep and first surface. ley (through sliding glass doors that came to the larger of the two, opened to let in the ocean air). but immediately headed to the Hot Springs. Our second dive of Outdoor seating also included I slowly made my way to break- needle. After a three-minute swim the morning was at Hot Springs, two special tables called the fast and enjoyed a lovely eggs in open blue, we could just make which reminds one that while Bird’s Nest. This was a single table Benedict, listening to the sounds of out the shadow of the needle. has not erupted built into an ancient mango tree, the forest waking up around me. We were greeted by a massive in almost 400 years, there is still giving diners a splendid view, or Soon, it was time to be picked up school of creole wrasse, which volcanic activity occurring below. dining within the foliage-covered to go diving. I was now closer to tried to seek shelter around us In certain areas, divers can bury gazebo. These spaces need to the harbor, so Peddy just picked from a giant trevally that was their hands in the sand and feel Grouper photo-bombs shark; the fishlife in Saba is so great that even when pho- tographing a nurse shark, other fish show up in the photos!

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Basketstar on sponge Cryptic teardrop crab (left); Coney grouper on night dive (right); in barrel sponge Secretary blenny (left) (above); Peppermint goby (top right); French angelfish on reef (below

the warmth, and some rocks are hot as well. Dive operation Sea Saba is a PADI 5-Star Dive Resort and Dining SSI training facility and their dedication Juliana’s Hotel and Queen’s Gardens to conservation is a great example of both have excellent onsite dining op- what every dive operation should be. I tions, but Saba’s dining culture is set was impressed by the knowledge of all of up to make it easy to explore the is- their staff, from guides to boat captains land’s food options. Currently, there are to those who worked in the office; they around 13 options, many within walking are an amazing source of knowledge of distance in Windwardside (and from all things Saba, ocean and conservation. Juliana’s) or a short taxi ride between I found out later Sea Saba is a Reef Field Windwardside and The Bottom. Station, and the staff is trained to at least Overall, I was very impressed with eve- Level 3 and can help do field surveys; rywhere I ate. Food was local and fresh; they help with a coral nursery and partici- there were options for everyone, includ- pate in other research. ing vegetarian and vegan; and always, Diver photographing a friendly green sea turtle

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Rugged, rocky coast of Saba Island (above); View of Diamond Rock from Sandy Cruz trail (top right)

the menus were exciting with a well-stocked grocery stores. tempt Mount Scenery certain Saba flare. There are many cottages one after a day of diving). On more than one evening, I can rent on Saba, with kitchens, found myself at the Brigadoon, and the grocery stores have Sandy Cruz Trail. which was a lovely open-air fine anything anyone would need The Sandy Cruz trail, dining restaurant that seemed to cook meals on their own or which takes around to be everyone’s favorite. It also to re-supply a sailboat before two hours, stretches hosts Sea Saba’s Monday even- continuing to the next island. from Hell’s Gate to ing presentations, where you Troy’s Hill, which was can enjoy a cocktail and learn Beyond diving right up the road from about the history of Saba, its Saba’s diving was some of the Queen’s Gardens. So, conservation projects, some fun best I have seen in the Carib- I opted to take a taxi to Hell’s made sure when he dropped fish facts and a lot more. After bean, but Saba is not just about Gate and start from there, mak- me off that I knew exactly listening to the presentation, diving. There are great hiking ing just a one-way trip and end- where to go. I stayed for an amazing teri- trails for all levels of hikers from ing up just in time for a gin and I took off in a cloud. Misty fog yaki mahi-mahi and chocolate easy or moderate walks to the tonic at sunset. was all around me, giving the mousse, which was to die for. steep climb to Mount Scenery, One of the friendly Saba forest an enchanted sort of feel- Later in the week at a fantas- with over 1,000 steps straight up. taxi drivers picked me up and ing. The higher-altitude areas of tic dinner with Sea Saba own- I settled on the mostly flat Sandy told me about being born and Saba are often called the Elfin ers John and Lynn, I also had Cruz trail one afternoon after raised in Saba. Yet again, the Forest, and I could see why. I the fish (which is often locally- diving. It is not recommended friendliness of the island was re- would not have been surprised caught lionfish) in a white wine to partake in strenuous activity markable; people would tell me at all to see an elf hop out of sauce, which was brilliant. after diving (or at least, that is their life stories on a whim and the foliage at any moment. Both Windwardside and The my excuse for choosing the flat genuinely inquired about mine. The trail was quite easy to Bottom have several surprisingly trail, but definitely do not at- It was lovely. The taxi driver follow and maintained, but Excellent Mahi mahi dish (center) at Brigadoon Pub & Eatery in Windwardside (above).

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Every Monday night, staff members from Sea Saba give a presentation at Brigadoon Pub & Eatery about Saba, its history, marine life, conservation and more(above); Trumpetfish (center); Web burrfish (right); Yellow goatfish (far right)

am sure had fantastic overlooks made mostly by local artists. From from them, but I was still in a cloud hand-crafted knives made by and could only see white. Sea Saba’s John, to soaps and By the time I got about halfway lotions made with indigenous and through the trail, I was at a slightly locally-grown ingredients, this lower altitude and could start to shop ends up being a one-stop rest of the community (and nature experts to share knowl- see through the cloud shadowing shop for Saba souvenirs. Ocean Saba’s visitors) by provid- edge and conduct research with the top of the island. I rounded lovers will appreciate hand-blown ing occasional classes the people and visitors of Saba. one corner and stopped in my glass mermaids and sea creatures and live demonstrations. There are free nightly presenta- tracks. I could see Diamond Rock, by Jobean Glass Art (Jobean also This year, they started an tions (at happy hour, of course) which we had dived a few days does demonstrations and classes), annual month-long “Cre- and volunteers can participate in earlier. Conveniently, there was a dishes hand-painted with marine ate & Learn” program with field and research projects around bench to sit and take in the ambi- life, bamboo carvings, mosaics workshops and art lessons the island. ence, so I stopped for a moment and jewelry made from lionfish taking place all month. and took some photos. spines and Saba sand. Conservation The shop also has Saba lace, Sea and Learn. If you Throughout my trip, I spent a lot of Diver on The Needle at Third Encounter Kakona. Saba also has an impres- which was a major industry on happen to be in Saba in time nodding my head and think- sive art scene that embraces the Saba in the early 1900s. A Saban October, be sure to check ing, “Yes, this island gets it.” As still rugged enough to make it a talents of the island residents. woman had gone to a Venezue- out “Sea & Learn.” This our environmental situation gets little challenging. Different types Next door to Sea Saba is Kakona, lan convent and returned having a successful mail-order industry. non-profit, month-long event is more and more dire, we as divers of trees, vines and flowers were a shop dedicated to provid- mastered lace-making needle- This lovely needlework is demon- sponsored by Sea Saba as well as need to support the diving opera- everywhere, and along the way ing Saba visitors with interesting work. She shared the skill with the strated once a week at Kakona. other island and regional business- tions and places that take care were benches, some of which I and unique keepsakes and gifts women of Saba, and they began Kakona also aims to inspire the es. They bring in world-renowned of and support the oceans. Saba

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yachts (Saba is a popular place for sailors). They also maintain the hiking trails and operate the island’s rec- ompression chamber. Revenue to carry out projects is raised through diving fees (US$3 per dive), dona- tions and souvenir sales. Altitude Some people express concern about the altitude of Saba. I will I will be back. Between the fantastic diving, admit I was curious and checked the beautiful island and excellent food, it is out the research before my trip. a hard place to resist. When you add in the Most of the accommodations on lovely people of Saba who take you in as Saba are around 300m (1,000ft), family from the moment you arrive, you start and Mount Scenery is 887m to miss it before you even leave. And if that is (2,910ft). Studies have shown that not enough to sell you on Saba, have I men- embraced the environment before tourists there have not been any cases of decom- tioned the gin bar?  even started showing up. The Saba National pression illness (bends) due to diving and stay- Marine Park (SMP) was established in 1987 ing on Saba or even flying directly back to St. Special thanks go to Sea Saba: seasaba.com. to protect the waters surrounding the entire Maarten the same day; the Winair flight usu- island and its seamounts. Over 1,300 hectares ally cruises at 760m (2,500ft) or lower, for less Brandi Mueller is a PADI IDC Staff Instructor is protected down to 60m (200ft). At the same than 15 minutes. and boat captain living in the Marshall Islands. time, the Saba Conservation Foundation Vigorous activity such as hiking after diving is When she’s not teaching scuba or driving (SCF) was organized to help manage the SMP always discouraged (particularly the steep climb boats, she’s most happy traveling and being and also manage the land as well. They are to Mount Scenery) as strenuous exercise has underwater with a camera. For more informa- “committed to the belief that a stronger island shown to increase risk. But as far as taking a day tion, visit: Brandiunderwater.com. economy will result from the sustainable use of trip to Saba to dive or returning to your resort on Saba’s rich and virtually unspoiled resources.” Saba after diving at 300m, you should be fine. SOURCES: The success of over 30 years of conservation SABAPARK.ORG is seen everywhere on the island and underwa- Final thoughts SABATOURISM.COM ter. Permanent moorings installed and main- As my week on Saba came to an end, some- SEASABA.COM Sharknose goby coral (above); School of yellow goatfish (top right); Red hind tained by the SCF are used for dive boats and one said, “You have to leave to come back.” WIKIPEDIA.ORG/SABA grouper (top left); Secretary blenny (left)

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establishments only Travel/Visa Valid passport to accepted cash. enter St. Maarten and Saba, most fact file Location of Saba Island on global There are two European and North Americans map (right) and in the Leeward ATMs on Saba do not require visas. Always check Saba, Islands on a regional map of the and a bank that for latest requirements before fly- Caribbean (below); A parrotfish will exchange ing, and remember, the first point sleeping in its translucent sleeping money, but has of entry is into St. Maarten. bag made by secreting mucus, limited hours. which serves to disguise its scent to predators and as an alarm system if Exchange rates: Transportation Diving and a predator gets to close (bottom left). 1USD=.86EUR; accommodation packages usu- SOURCES: SABAPARK.ORG. SABATOURISM.COM, 1USD=.77GBP; ally include transportation to and SEASABA.COM, WIKIPEDIA.ORG/SABA, XE.COM 1USD=1.35AUD; from the airport and from accom- 1USD=1.36SGD modation to the dive boat. A History Saba has a unique Netherlands. Capital: The network of taxi drivers exists on the CUBA history and anthropologists have Bottom MEXICO Population 2,000 island, several of whom you will found evidence of Carib and DOMINICAN probably get to know personally REPUBLIC Arawak natives living on the Geography Only 13.2 HAITI Language The official lan- during your stay. Rental cars are Le e island as far back as 800 AD. squ km (5.1 squ mi), the w guages are Dutch and English, available. a r Columbus sighted the island in small island is a dormant, BELIZE JAMAICA PUERTO d but many other languages can

I RICO s l 1493, but did not land because of but potentially active, vol- a also be heard, including Spanish, Getting there International

n the steep and rocky shores. The cano that has not erupt- d French and “Saba English,” which flights from the United States, the GUAT. s HONDURAS s first Europeans to land on Saba ed in over 5,000 years. d is a creole form of English. Netherlands, France, Canada,

Caribbean Sea n

a

l s were from a shipwreck in 1632; Mount Scenery is 887m I South American and other

d the island was found inhabited. (2,910ft) high. Woodland EL r Phone/Internet: Saba has WiFi Caribbean islands fly into St. NICARAGUA a SALVADOR w From the 1600s to the 1800s, forests covers most of d at most resorts and restaurants, Maarten. From St. Maarten, in the Dutch, English, French and the island, and the Saba W although due to the mountains, Winair flies into Saba, or there Spanish vied for the island with Conservation Foundation it can be difficult to connect in are several ferries departing St. much conflict; the Dutch won in maintains 18 trails in the PANAMA some places and is generally Maarten every day. The Juancho 1816, and Saba remains a part Saba Walking Trail Network. a slow connection. Many cell- E. Yrausquin Airport on Saba is the of the Netherlands to this day. The underwater geog- VENEZUELA phones will work on Saba (but world’s shortest commercial run-

While the Europeans squabbled raphy of Saba has been COLUMBIA GUY. 3.0 BY-SA / CC WIKIMEDIA COMMONS / TUBS with roaming/international charg- way. over the island, Caribbean pirates shaped by the same vol- es); local SIM cards are available. used the impenetrable coastline canic activity that created the warmer and more humid. Most yachts) to protect the reefs, hiking Health & Security Saba is very and thick vegetation as a safe island. Parts of the underwater of the hotels and cottages are trails are maintained, and every Voltage 110 volts, American- safe. Take the normal precautions haven and hideout for many landscape have been shaped above 300m (1,000ft), so night October, the island hosts conserva- style plugs. you would anywhere, but there is years. Government: parliamentary by lava, creating unique swim- can be cooler and breezes are tion and educational awareness little to worry about. Saba has no constitu­tional monarchy; Saba throughs, canyons, tunnels and common year-round. August activities called Sea & Learn for Cuisine Saba has excellent din- major health concerns and very is part of the Kingdom of the walls. A short distance offshore through November has the poten- both residents and visitors. ning throughout the island. Resorts few bugs. In some resorts, water is are several seamounts tial for hurricanes. Water tempera- and hotels have their own dining es- safe to drink from the tap; in others, caused by lava rising tures vary from 26-28°C (77-84°F) Economy The Saba University tablishments, and there are around bottled water was recommended. up from the sea floor. with winter being cooler. School of Medicine plays a role 10 restaurants throughout the island. Check with your accommodations In certain areas, hot in Saba’s economy, providing The island has several well-stocked provider. sand and rocks occur, Environmental issues Saba is jobs and contributing to the GDP. grocery stores for those wanting to confirming continuous a great example of how conserva- Tourism is the major component of cook on their own. Decompression chambers volcanic activity. tion efforts work. The Saba Marine Saba’s economy, although it still Saba has a hyperbaric chamber Park and Saba Conservation remains quite small. There is a small Tipping Tips of 10-20% is gener- at the Saba Hyperbaric Facility in Climate Foundation were established in the agricultural contribution as well as ally expected at restaurants and . Temperatures above 1980s to protect the water, land Saba lace production. for diving. Some restaurants au- water average and cultural heritage of the island, tomatically apply a service fee. Websites 23-29°C (75-85°F) and the residents take great pride Currency US Dollar. Although Cash tipping is preferred as Dutch Saba Tourism year-round, with the in their island, both above and some places do accept Visa tax laws translate to the recipient Sabatourism.com northern hemisphere below water. There are permanent and Mastercard, cash is gener- losing 49% in government tax on summer months being moorings for dive sites (and for ally preferred, and some smaller credit card tips.

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