Master of Fine Arts Thesis Solarium Justin Donofrio Submitted
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CLIMBING ETHICS Alpine Style Vs Commercial Expeditions
p i o l e T s d ’ o r 2 0 0 9 81 CLIMBING ETHICS Alpine Style vS CommerCiAl expeditionS The opening night of the Piolets d’Or included a discussion on Climbing Ethics. Here, mountain guide Victor Saunders expands on his contribution to that spir- ited debate. There are those who think commercial expeditions are unethical, that commercial expeditions should use alpine-style tactics, and that maybe they should not exist at all. I will show that this view is mistaken and that the ethical issue is in fact irrelevant; but before dealing with the so-called ethical issue, I wish to set aside the usual diversions that get mixed up in this discussion. There are three that I commonly hear: First: Commercial expeditions bring too many people to the same moun- tain, by the same route. Well, to these people I say, if you have a romantic desire to find raw nature, go away and do new routes on unclimbed moun- tains. Let the wonderful climbs that have been nominated for this year’s Piolets d’Or inspire you. It is not intelligent to do the normal route on Mont Blanc in August and complain that you are not alone. Second: The environmental thing. Commercial expeditions typically go back to the same site year after year, and so it is in the operator’s inter- est to keep camps clean and tidy for the next visit. Amateur expeditions rely solely on the good moral values of the climbers, because there are no other controls on them. -
Political Imagination in German Romanticism John Thomas Gill
Wild Politics : Political Imagination in German Romanticism John Thomas Gill A dissertation submitted to the faculty at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Ph.D in the Department of Germanic and Slavic Languages and Literatures in the College of Arts and Sciences. Chapel Hill 2020 Approved by: Gabriel Trop Eric Downing Stefani Engelstein Jakob Norberg Aleksandra Prica i © 2020 John Thomas Gill ALL RIGHTS RESERVED ii ABSTRACT John Gill: Wild Politics : Political Imagination in German Romanticism (Under the direction of Gabriel Trop) The political discourse of German Romanticism is often interpreted reductively: as either entirely revolutionary, reactionary, or indeed apolitical in nature. Breaking with this critical tradition, this dissertation offers a new conceptual framework for political Romanticism called wild politics . I argue that Romantic wild politics generates a sense of possibility that calls into question pragmatic forms of implementing sociopolitical change; it envisions imaginative alternatives to the status quo that exceed the purview of conventional political thinking. Three major fields of the Romantic political imaginary organize this reading: affect, nature, and religion. Chapter 1 examines Novalis’ politics of affect. In his theory of the fairy tale—as opposed to the actual fairy tales he writes—Novalis proposes a political paradigm centered on the aesthetic dimension of love. He imagines a new Prussian state constituted by emotional attachments between the citizen and the monarch. Chapter 2 takes up the “new mythology” in the works of F.W.J. Schelling, Friedrich Schlegel, and Johann Wilhelm Ritter, the comprehensive project of reorienting modern life towards its most transformative potentials. -
Victorian Climbing Management Guidelines
Victorian Climbing Management Guidelines Compiled for the Victorian Climbing Community Revision: V04 Published: 15 Sept 2020 1 Contributing Authors: Matthew Brooks - content manager and writer Ashlee Hendy Leigh Hopkinson Kevin Lindorff Aaron Lowndes Phil Neville Matthew Tait Glenn Tempest Mike Tomkins Steven Wilson Endorsed by: Crag Stewards Victoria VICTORIAN CLIMBING MANAGEMENT GUIDELINES V04 15 SEPTEMBER 2020 2 Foreword - Consultation Process for The Victorian Climbing Management Guidelines The need for a process for the Victorian climbing community to discuss widely about best rock-climbing practices and how these can maximise safety and minimise impacts of crag environments has long been recognised. Discussions on these themes have been on-going in the local Victorian and wider Australian climbing communities for many decades. These discussions highlighted a need to broaden the ways for climbers to build collaborative relationships with Traditional Owners and land managers. Over the years, a number of endeavours to build and strengthen such relationships have been undertaken; Victorian climbers have been involved, for example, in a variety of collaborative environmental stewardship projects with Land Managers and Traditional Owners over the last two decades in particular, albeit in an ad hoc manner, as need for such projects have become apparent. The recent widespread climbing bans in the Grampians / Gariwerd have re-energised such discussions and provided a catalyst for reflection on the impacts of climbing, whether inadvertent or intentional, negative or positive. This has focussed considerations of how negative impacts on the environment or cultural heritage can be avoided or minimised and on those climbing practices that are most appropriate, respectful and environmentally sustainable. -
Waypoint Namibia
Majka enjoys a perfect crack on Southern Crossing. Big wall Waypoint Namibia What makes a climb impassable? I’m 215-meters up a first ascent of a granite crack climb in the heart of Namibia, and all I have to hold onto is a bush. Lots of bushes. Trees, too. In order to get where I’m going - the summit - I need what’s behind the bushes, the thing these bushes are choking, the thing that I have travelled 15,400 kilometers by plane, truck, and foot for: a perfect crack. amibia is not known for its climbing, which is exactly why I wanted to go there. It’s better known as Africa’s newest Nindependent country, the source of the continent’s largest stores of uranium and diamonds, the Namib Desert, the Skeleton Coast, and its tribal peoples. Previously known as Southwest Africa, this former German colony and South African protectorate holds some of the most coveted, and least visited, natural sites in Africa. In the middle of all of these lies Spitzkoppe, a 500-meter granite plug with over eighty established climbs. When I learned about Spitzkoppe in December 2007, I automatically started wondering what else might be possible to climb in Namibia. I pick unlikely climbing destinations because I want to learn what happens on the margins of adventure. War, apartheid, and remoteness have all combined to keep many of Namibia’s vertical landscapes relatively unexplored. When I found an out-of-focus photo of a 1,000-meter granite prow with a mud Himba hut in the foreground, I knew I had found my objective. -
1958 Journals
34. 0434 LOSING THE WAY ON A NEEDLE C. B. MACHIN Time dims memories. My story commences a number of seasons ago when a party of three quietly made their way at dawn from a Dolomite Hut, the leader carrying a small rucksack into which he had modestly tucked such climbing equipment as a piton hammer, piton, spare rope, slings and karabiners. Later some of this equipment was to be worn on the person, giving the wearer the appearance of a Lord Mayor of the sixth degree, though privately he felt equal to about one degree. From the col above the hut the approach to the Needle is made by traversing as airy a terrace as any climber could wish for. After crossing two steep snow couloirs, the start of the climb is reached and though we had gained height considerably the pinnacle rose sheer for a thousand feet above the ridge. The ordinary route, which is the easiest, offers a climb of the most extreme difficulty that can be overcome without the use of pitons as climbing aids, though pitons are used as belays. We were told that the Needle was not the place for careless or clumsy climbers since there is no margin of safety for such, and balance and neatness are absolutely essential. The climb started with a ten foot chimney sloping obliquely to the right and finishing on a small terrace with a pulpit at the base of a vertical yellow wall. This wall was one of the most difficult bits of the ascent; three problems arose, how to get on, how to stay on, and how to get off at the other end. -
Modern Yosemite Climbing 219
MODERN YOSEMITE CLIMBING 219 MODERN YOSEMITE CLIMBING BY YVON CHOUINARD (Four illustrations: nos. 48-5r) • OSEMITE climbing is the least known and understood, yet one of the most important, schools of rock climbing in the world today. Its philosophies, equipment and techniques have been developed almost independently of the rest of the climbing world. In the short period of thirty years, it has achieved a standard of safety, difficulty and technique comparable to the best European schools. Climbers throughout the world have recently been expressing interest in Yosemit e and its climbs, although they know little about it. Until recently, even most American climbers were unaware of what was happening in their own country. Y osemite climbers in the past had rarely left the Valley to climb in other areas, and conversely few climbers from other regions ever come to Yosemite; also, very little has ever been published about this area. Climb after climb, each as important as a new climb done elsewhere, has gone completely unrecorded. One of the greatest rock climbs ever done, the 1961 ascent of the Salethe Wall, received four sentences in the American Alpine Journal. Just why is Y osemite climbing so different? Why does it have techniques, ethics and equipment all of its own ? The basic reason lies in the nature of the rock itself. Nowhere else in the world is the rock so exfoliated, so glacier-polished and so devoid of handholds. All of the climbing lines follow vertical crack systems. Nearly every piton crack, every handhold, is a vertical one. Special techniques and equipment have evolved through absolute necessity. -
Rock Climbing Fundamentals Has Been Crafted Exclusively For
Disclaimer Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous activity; severe injury or death can occur. The content in this eBook is not a substitute to learning from a professional. Moja Outdoors, Inc. and Pacific Edge Climbing Gym may not be held responsible for any injury or death that might occur upon reading this material. Copyright © 2016 Moja Outdoors, Inc. You are free to share this PDF. Unless credited otherwise, photographs are property of Michael Lim. Other images are from online sources that allow for commercial use with attribution provided. 2 About Words: Sander DiAngelis Images: Michael Lim, @murkytimes This copy of Rock Climbing Fundamentals has been crafted exclusively for: Pacific Edge Climbing Gym Santa Cruz, California 3 Table of Contents 1. A Brief History of Climbing 2. Styles of Climbing 3. An Overview of Climbing Gear 4. Introduction to Common Climbing Holds 5. Basic Technique for New Climbers 6. Belaying Fundamentals 7. Climbing Grades, Explained 8. General Tips and Advice for New Climbers 9. Your Responsibility as a Climber 10.A Simplified Climbing Glossary 11.Useful Bonus Materials More topics at mojagear.com/content 4 Michael Lim 5 A Brief History of Climbing Prior to the evolution of modern rock climbing, the most daring ambitions revolved around peak-bagging in alpine terrain. The concept of climbing a rock face, not necessarily reaching the top of the mountain, was a foreign concept that seemed trivial by comparison. However, by the late 1800s, rock climbing began to evolve into its very own sport. There are 3 areas credited as the birthplace of rock climbing: 1. -
Public Chat from 02.25.21 Community Forum on Winter Climbing
17:59:29 From Sarah Garlick to Everyone : Welcome! 18:11:07 From Sarah Garlick to Everyone : Statement https://www.nhledges.org/projects-campaigns/ Comment Form https://tinyurl.com/FriendsComment Thank you to the many climbers who have helped shape the initial winter practices statement and the gathering tonight, including: Nick Aiello-Popeo Sam Bendroth Liam Byrer Peter Doucette Justin Guarino Meg Hoffer Mike Morin Jon Nicolodi Brian O'leary Zac St. Jules Jim Surette Mark Synnott Michael Wejchert Freddie Wilkinson Kurt Winkler 18:15:52 From Sarah Garlick to Everyone : Sign up for Friends of the Ledges email list: https://www.nhledges.org/get-involved/ 18:15:58 From Sarah Garlick to Everyone : Indigenous New Hampshire Collaborative Collective: https://indigenousnh.com/ 18:21:52 From Sarah Garlick to Everyone : I love seeing all your faces - thank you all for being here! 18:23:34 From Bruce Franks to Everyone : Thanks a lot Sarah, I appreciate all the work you do and the work to get this event tonight working. 18:32:19 From Justin Preisendorfer to Everyone : Way to power your way through Bayard! 18:46:06 From Sarah Garlick to Everyone : https://rockandice.com/opinion/style- matters-cryokinesis-and-the-new-ethics-in-new-hampshire-winter-climbing/ 18:50:48 From nickaiello to Everyone : Think past what I want to do at a moment? How quaint. 18:53:14 From Sarah Garlick to Everyone : But isn’t one of the problems that you don’t think you’re doing any “real” damage when you head up on a piece of granite? One of the problems is that the impact is really tiny… but it adds up…. -
Victorian Climbing Management Guidelines
Victorian Climbing Management Guidelines Compiled for the Victorian Climbing Community Revision: V03 Published: 30 April 2020 1 Contributing Authors: Matthew Brooks - content manager Adam Demmert Ashlee Hendy Leigh Hopkinson Kevin Lindorff Aaron Lowndes Phil Neville Tracey Skinner Matthew Tait Glenn Tempest Mike Tomkins Steven Wilson Endorsed by: Crag Stewards Victoria VICTORIAN CLIMBING MANAGEMENT GUIDELINES V03 30 APRIL 2020 2 Foreword - Consultation Process for The Victorian Climbing Management Guidelines The need for a process for the Victorian climbing community to discuss widely about best rock-climbing practices and how these can maximise safety and minimise impacts of crag environments has long been recognised. Discussions on these themes have been on-going in the local Victorian and wider Australian climbing communities for many decades. These discussions highlighted a need to broaden the ways for climbers to build collaborative relationships with Traditional Owners and land managers. Over the years, a number of endeavours to build and strengthen such relationships have been undertaken; Victorian climbers have been involved, for example, in a variety of collaborative environmental stewardship projects with Land Managers and Traditional Owners over the last two decades in particular, albeit in an ad hoc manner, as need for such projects have become apparent. The recent widespread climbing bans in the Grampians / Gariwerd have re-energised such discussions and provided a catalyst for reflection on what climbers are doing well, what practices are appropriate and what they can do better. The need to have such climbing best practices and climbing management best practices documented in a readily accessible document that is embraced by the wider climbing community, and embraced by Traditional Owners and Land Managers has been given added urgency. -
Wilderness Rock Climbing Indicators
WILDERNESS ROCK CLIMBING INDICATORS AND CLIMBING MANAGEMENT IMPLICATIONS IN THE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE by Katherine Y. McHugh A Thesis Submitted in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree of Master of Science in Geography, Applied Geospatial Sciences Northern Arizona University December 2019 Approved: Franklin Vernon, Ph.D., chair Mark Maciha, Ed.D. Erik Murdock, Ph.D. H. Randy Gimblett, Ph.D. ABSTRACT WILDERNESS ROCK CLIMBING INDICATORS AND CLIMBING MANAGEMENT IMPLICATIONS IN THE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE KATHERINE Y. MCHUGH This pilot study addresses the need to characterize monitoring indicators for wilderness climbing in the National Park Service (NPS) as which are important to monitoring efforts as components in climbing management programs per Director’s Order #41, Section 7.2 Climbing. This research adopts a utilitarian conceptual framework suited to applied management objectives. Critically, it advances analytical connections between science and management through an integrative review of the resources informing park planning; including law and policy, climbing management documents, academic research on climbing management, recreation ecology, and interagency wilderness character monitoring strategies. Monitoring indicators include biophysical, social, and administrative topics related to climbing and are conceptually structured based on the interagency wilderness character monitoring model. The wilderness climbing indicators require both field and administrative monitoring; field monitoring of the indicators should be implemented by climbing staff and skilled volunteers as part of a patrol program, and administrative indicators mirror administrative wilderness character monitoring methods that can be carried out by a park’s wilderness coordinator or committee. Indicators, monitoring design, and recommended measures were pilot tested in two locations: Grand Canyon and Joshua Tree National Parks. -
The American Alpine Club Annual Report 2017 a Message from Our Ceo
a AAC member Bernd Zeugswetter THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB ANNUAL REPORT 2017 A MESSAGE FROM OUR CEO WHEN I TOOK THE HELM at the AAC in 2005, we looked In 2011, we reaffirmed this direction and the organi- inward and asked: who do we represent? Who do we zation’s growth accelerated. Mountaineering became just want to be in the future? The answer came back con- one of many ways for people to engage with the Club. sistently: we want to be the Club for all climbers. We changed the name of Accidents in North American We had long been associated with expedition climb- Mountaineering to Accidents in North American Climbing. ers and alpinists. We talked of reaching summits— Our efforts to keep up with this landscape demanded often by new and difficult routes—as the culmination a board, staff, and volunteers who could represent and of a dedication to climbing. We spent decades honor- reflect the new dynamics in climbing. We revised our ing achievement within the narrow mountaineering com- mission and vision to reflect who we strived to be. munity, while the sport of climbing was subdividing into We actively sought women to lead and found how a multitude of specialties, each with its own culture. difficult it can be to change a culture—like that of Looking back, it may not have seemed momen- our board or staff—and make those changes stick. tous for us to give our Underhill award for climbing The results of our steps towards inclusion have brought achievement to John Gill in 2008 for advancing boul- nothing but good news. -
Equipment List
Alpine Climbs Equipment List This is our standard equipment list for summer alpine climbs in the North and central Cascades, including the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. Unless otherwise noted all items on this list are required. We will do an equipment check at the start of the trip but it is important to work out any gear issues in advance. Please contact us if you have any questions. The goal is to have everything on the list and still have a reasonably light pack. On more technical routes you should really try to keep things light as possible as a heavy pack makes technical climbing very difficult. All of your personal gear, with the exception of the clothes you will wear to start, should easily fit into a 55L pack with room left over for group gear. NMS will provide all of the group camping, cooking and climbing equipment. Items marked with a (R) are available to rent from NMS. Climbing Equipment o Backpack (R): Internal Frame 50-60 L Pack. Look for a simple, light pack that fits you well. Please keep in mind that you will be given some group gear to carry. i.e. Cilo Gear 60 L WorkSack o Ice axe (R): 50-65 cm i.e. Petzl Sum’tec, Snowwalker or Snowracer o Crampons w/Anti-Balling Plates (R): These should be a 12-point general mountaineering crampon. i.e. Petzl Vasak TO5 LL or FL o Alpine Climbing Harness (R): i.e. Petzl Adjama o Climbing Helmet (R): i.e. Petzl Elios or Meteor III o Carabiners: 2 pear shaped locking i.e.