Lâche Pas Sustaining and spreading the tradition of Cajun boucherie

By Melanie Warner Spencer & Photography by Denny Culbert

66 | acadiana profile DECember 2015/january 2016 acadianaprofile.com | 67 light morning fog lifts off the fields in the Rodriguez enters the trailer. His voice mingles softly with distance, as a resident black barn cat ambles into the snorting and vocalizing of the pig. Outside, Kyzar lights a the gravel driveway. About 15 yards away from bundle of sage. the white wooden farmhouse, four tents are “We really like to push [the ceremonial] side of things, to let planted in a row near the fence. The sun begins people know how special it is,” Kyzar says. “It’s life and death.” Ato rise, as four indistinguishable figures emerge from the tents, Rodriguez exits the trailer as attendees quietly gather around their silhouettes receding into the dim light of daybreak. The it. Chris George of George Family Farms in Montgomery, Ala- men step into dewy grass to shake off sleep and get to the day’s bama, who raised the pig, offers a blessing. Rodriguez opens the business. Nearby the peaceful rustling and snorting sounds of trailer door ever so slightly and makes shushing noises as the hog a 258-pound hog drift out of a small black stock trailer. A approaches the door to have a bite of food from a pan.There is version of this scene has become commonplace for the men of a faint black “X” on the animal's forehead. A shot rings out and Lâche Pas Boucherie et Cuisine – those guys filing out of the the pig falls sideways into the trailer. tents – who now are quite well-known throughout Acadiana The Lâche Pas team quickly pulls the animal toward the and beyond, because they have made it their mission to carry door. Rodriguez draws a knife across her throat, beginning the on the tradition of and educate people about the practice of process of draining the blood into a pan for use later in mak- Cajun boucherie. ing the boudin. The sound of Barrett Dupuis scraping a metal On this day, the boucherie is in St. Bernard Parish, about whisk on the sides of a stainless steel bowl to combine salt into two and a half hours from Lafayette, at Docville Farms (a cul- the blood and keep it from coagulating mixes with the stifled ture and learning center project of the nonprofit Meraux Foun- sobs of a few of those in the circle around the trailer. Kyzar and dation). Attendees range from culinary students and chefs to Chris McIntyre stroke and comfort the animal until the end. members of Slow Food New Orleans and their children, with “There she goes,” says Kyzar. proceeds from the event benefiting both the upcoming Slow Swiftly, the pig is transferred from the trailer to a wooden plat- Fish 2016 and a memorial fund for victims of the shooting in form with handles. The men carry the platform and its cargo to Lafayette and their families. an area closer to the house and hoist it onto a pair of sawhors- At dawn, before the arrival of curious attendees, Lâche Pas’ Bri- es. Kyzar hands Rodriguez a bottle of Buffalo Trace Kentucky an Kyzar burns sage and performs a private Native American pipe Bourbon, and he takes a swig. He then passes the bottle to each ceremony and Sun Dance with prayer songs. Kyzar says he be- member of Lâche Pas, and they each have a pull. The animal is gan the practice at age 14 and it seemed fitting to incorporate the covered with burlap next, and Rodriguez douses the temporary ceremonies into the boucherie. Soon, artist, carpenter and Lâche wrapping with boiling hot water. Pas’ resident butcher and chef Toby Rodriguez – whom many are “When you are there at a boucherie, or any time an animal is familiar with from his appearances on the popular “Cajun Coun- killed, they put it on the table and there is a pathos,” says Kevin try” episode of the Travel Channel’s “Anthony Bourdain: No Res- McCaffrey, Louisiana Folklife Program Commissioner and the ervations,” and Bravo’s “Top Chef” – begins the ritualistic process documentary film producer behind "No One Ever Went Hun- of laying out on a wooden picnic table and artfully arranging the gry: Acadian Food Traditions Then & Now." tools of his trade, including an immense collection of all manner “At some point, an animal turns to food.” of knives (some antique; some made by Rodriguez; and some gift- McCaffrey says the experience of the boucherie historically is ed or heirlooms from his father and grandfather), mallets, saws, about survival, community and sustainability. antique ivory handled strait razors (also a gift) and a hatchet. For 30 minutes, the long and lean Rodriguez, clad in a plaid pearl snap shirt and Levis with a red handkerchief dangling out of his The 268-pound hog was raised at George Family Farms in back pocket and brown work boots sharpens the blades that need Montgomery, Alabama. Rodriguez of Lâche Pas Boucherie et it and loads his Ruger .22 caliber, single six-shot revolver. Cuisine and his team work to keep the animal comfortable “I pray for an easy passage,” says Kyzar, as Rodriguez makes and calm throughout the morning. A blessing is conducted his way to the stock trailer. “That the pig accepts it and dies very prior to the slaughter, to show gratitude and honor to the easily. There’s always a prayer; I just take it up a notch or two.” animal and to mark the solemnity of the occasion.

68 | acadiana profile DECember 2015/january 2016 acadianaprofile.com | 69 “The family raised it and the animal gave its life,” McCaffrey Toby Rodriguez of Lâche Pas Boucherie et Cuisine walks says. “But, it’s what you do with preparations, especially in the toward the butchering station as members of his team and Cajun sense – you try to use it all. The boucherie itself was a attendees move the pig. Culinary students then assist at shav- kind of sustainability.” ing the pig and finally Rodriguez runs a blowtorch over the In the early 1900s, the use of the French language was skin to make sure there are no stray hairs. A chef cuts organ banned in schools, setting off a chain reaction that would send meat for the fraisseurs. The Vaucresson's Sausage Company Cajun culture into decline. team mans the sausage station. “Where they found that Cajun-French culture was in the music and food,” McCaffrey says. “You had guys like [musi- Crosby jumps out of the truck, walks over to the table and slaps cians] Marc Savoy and Michael Doucet who carried on a tradi- the pig saying, “Me and you gonna be good friends for the next tion of boucherie.” four hours!” As Rodriguez and the culinary students begin shaving the pig Once the students, Kyzar and Rodriguez finish shaving the to remove the hair, the faint sound of music is in the air. Rod- pig, Rodriguez makes a final pass at it with a blowtorch to en- die Romero of Roddie Romero and the Hub City All-Stars and sure that it is clean and free of fuzz. a couple members of the band are providing the days musical “There’s nothing worse than hairy cracklins,” jokes Chris entertainment. They are warming up in the covered picnic area. Haines, a member of the board of directors for the Meraux It’s announced that cowboy coffee and homemade blueberry Foundation. cornbread are available on the patio, the bar is opening soon, The pig is turned onto its back. Rodriguez, ever the show- and as Romero and his bandmate quietly play a few songs on the man, says that as an artist he’s aware of subtle nuances that accordion and guitar, the earlier solemnity gives way to festivity. open people’s minds and allow them to absorb what’s in front Suddenly, a Ford F-150 rolls up, and an imposing man sport- of them, resulting in a strong sense of presence. He leaps onto ing a moustache and overalls yells out the window in Cajun- the table with one foot on each side of the animal. A long white French. Several attendees respond in kind. The newcomer is apron is tied around his waist and hovers above the smooth Tom Crosby, and he’s here to make the cracklins or grattons. belly of the pig.

70 | acadiana profile DECember 2015/january 2016 acadianaprofile.com | 71 A hatchet hangs from one side of his belt in a leather holder other culinary events and destinations, is dedicated to learning and an orthopedic mallet and other tools swing from the other about the region’s culinary traditions and educating culinary side. He begins to explain the butchering process. students and the public at large about the culture and history “Usually this would be done by hanging the pig nose-down,” behind the cuisine. Rodriguez tells the group. “This is the way I grew up doing it.” The band is in full swing and the bar is slinging beer from 40 The goal, Rodriguez explains, is to keep all of the parts clean, Arpent Brewing Co., located in nearby Arabi. Cornbread and since they want to use as much of the animal as possible. He makes red beans and rice are offered up on the patio to pacify growling the first cut from the chin down through the neck then splits the bellies while the butchering is completed, the cracklins sizzle in sternum with the mallet and hatchet as a person holds each leg. a big black cauldron under Crosby’s watchful eye and the meat Quickly, Rodriguez begins butchering the hog. With a is prepared for cooking. sculptor's precision, he carves and shapes the sum down to its Vance Vaucresson of Vaucresson’s Sausage Company starts get- preferred parts. He is assisted by Ryan Hughes, chef and owner ting sausage ready for the barrel smoker and the other stations are of Purloo, located in the Southern Food and Beverage Museum prepped by their respective captains for the grilled meats, hams in New Orleans. Hughes, who often takes road trips through- cooked in the “Cajun microwave,” (a large charcoal-heated Dutch out the South and Cajun country to farms, restaurants and oven) and fraisseurs or organ meat stew. Chris McIntyre, who assisted earlier with the slaughtering of the pig and some of the butchering, is now sipping a beer near the fraisseurs station. Each station is tasked with preparing a different part of the “Typically I do the fraisseurs,” McIntyre says, explaining that animal. From smoking sausage in a barrel smoker, to grilling he relinquished his captain status to a local chef for the day. and manning the "Cajun Microwave," or large Dutch oven, the He didn’t experience boucheries growing up. After architec- goal is to use every part of the animal that's possible. In the pre- ture school in Lafayette, McIntyre worked with Rodriguez on refrigeration days, the meats would be prepared for storage and building projects and was introduced to it. used in the coming months. The tradition of Cajun boucherie “Every night someone was cooking,” McIntyre says. “That’s is handed down generation to generation through a mentoring how [Lâche Pas Boucherie et Cuisine] sort of started.” program, says Louisiana Folklife Commissioner, Kevin Over the past two years, the Lâche Pas group has done more McCaffrey. Rodriguez says he has taken part in boucheries his than 40 events all over the United States in keeping with their entire life and has done it professionally for about seven years. mission to educate people and keep the boucherie custom alive.

72 | acadiana profile DECember 2015/january 2016 acadianaprofile.com | 73 Traditionally the many fruits of the day’s labors would Community, sustainability, spirituality and ritual are all of course be set aside for the coming months, since in pre- integral elements of the Cajun boucherie. It's important to refrigeration days when the tradition started the purpose was honor the animal for its sacrifice and sustain the bounty by to preserve meat for winter. These days however it has become limiting waste. For the Slow Food New Orleans boucherie, more of a celebration of culture and community – and in the waste amounted to less than a third of a five-pound this case education – so by days end all of the meat is heartily bucket. It would have been less had someone agreed to make consumed by ravenous attendees. chitlins with the intestines, a challenging and messy endeavor. Not long after the lines die down and everyone has their (L to R) Barrett Dupuis, Chris McIntyre, Toby Rodriguez and crack at pork chops and loin, sausage and stews – and Crosby’s Bryan Kyzar of Lâche Pas Boucherie et Cuisine have done creamy, crispy cracklins – Rodriguez bellies up to the bar for a approximately 40 boucherie events across the United States well-earned break and a cold beer. over the past two years. They hope to educate people about the Slaughtering and butchering a pig is of course physical work, tradition and keep it alive in Acadiana. but also emotional, spiritual and creative. McCaffrey says the performance element is cultural, traditional and ritualistic. the tradition alive. He writes that it’s about family, friends and The artist and adept performer in Rodriguez are on full display community, but most importantly about preserving the culture and during the boucherie and for several reasons, including those sharing the heritage with his daughter. Getting people to connect McCaffrey cites. with their food source however, is a large part of the public message. “There is an element of theater,” Rodriguez says. “If you can "It's absolutely essential these days," Rodriguez says. "We have get people to connect emotionally, they’ll be more affected by no guilt or remorse. It's just a patty or a sausage. It's not a cow it. There is an emotional detachment to where people's food or a pig." comes from. When people are close to the source, you think Echoes of these strongly held sentiments are driven home twice about throwing away a half plate of food. The boucherie again and again by the Lâche Pas team. becomes a vehicle for someone to feel emotional toward their “It’s a spiritual thing,” McIntyre says. “It’s very emotional food source, which starts out as a living creature.” and special. You’re taking the animal and turning it into food. Rodriguez writes poetic prose on the Lâche Pas Boucherie et There’s no waste. It’s the most honorable way an animal can go Cuisine website and blog about his other inspirations for keeping out. That’s what it’s about. And community. •

74 | acadiana profile DECember 2015/january 2016 acadianaprofile.com | 75 The Tap Room

6 Sporting Spots for football fever Get your game day vibes on at these energetic, tribal enclaves throughout Ac adiana

By Lisa LeBlanc-Berry // Photos by denny culbert

Pondering a new place for the coin toss? We've got you covered with a list of six diverse venues to accommodate your personal viewing style. Our suggestions range from lively sports bars filled with cheering fans to the laid-back little neighborhood “Who’s ya daddy?” joints with bayou food and sporting Cajun camaraderie. Chances are, you’ll have more fun feeling the spirit of a high-octane football showdown at places where regulars welcome you into their inner realm like old friends — unless you’re wearing the other team’s colors. Walk-On’s Bistreaux & Bar The Tap Room 1795 Martin Luther King Blvd. 202 Settlers Trace Blvd. Houma // 985/262/8501 Lafayette // 337/984/9280

Since the New Orleans Saints A popular gathering spot handed the Atlanta Falcons their among the 20s and 30s crowd first defeat of the season in in Lafayette is The Tap Room in October (31-21) and theirs is the River Ranch, where you can play oldest rivalry in the NFC South Monday fantasy football to your division, you may want to see heart’s delight and watch the the Jan. 3 game, when the Saints Eat this Devils on games with fellow fans without challenge the Falcons in Atlanta Horseback: Jumbo going downtown. The large (for the close of the regular Gulf shrimp stuffed with windows give it an open feel. You season) at an upscale sports cream cheese and pickled can play shuffleboard, watch the bar filled with Who Dat fans and jalapeno, wrapped in bacon game, and order a large variety flat screens aplenty. The snazzy and lightly fried Drink of beers in addition to hand- new Walk-On’s Bistreaux & Bar this Death Valley: crafted cocktails. Food selections in Houma, which is co-owned by Served in a whopping include flatbreads and gourmet Saints quarterback Drew Brees, 32-oz. glass with Svedka hot dogs served with kettle chips, is a prime spot for viewing the vodka, Bayou Silver rum, but there are oyster-on-the-half- face-off. It will also no doubt be Triple Sec, DeKuyper shell specials when available. hopping for Super Bowl 50. Raamatazz, orange juice and pineapple juice General manager David Savoie Drew and his wife, Brittany, creates drink specials tied to the announced they were buying seasons (he was formerly with into Walk-On’s Enterprises as Social Southern Table and Bar, co-owners last May. The company Brees recalls visiting Houma known for their superb hand- caught their attention when the the summer after winning the crafted cocktails). He is rather New Orleans Walk-On’s was voted Super Bowl, and commented proud of the Tap Room’s extensive ESPN’s “Best Sports Bar in North “how great the fans are.” The selection of beer, which includes America.” Locations to date are sprawling Houma Walk-Ons, international lagers and pilsners, in Baton Rouge, New Orleans, which has an 8,000-square-foot American crafts and ciders, and Lafayette, Houma and Shreveport, restaurant and a large enclosed international ambers, ales, porters while Lake Charles is underway. patio and beer garden, opened and stouts, plus a design-your- Sept. 8 with no less than 70 Brees foresees a national own flight of 4 draught beers. TVs, 48 beers on tap and an franchise. Saints fans may recall Upscale yet casual ambience; it extensive menu. “It was voted the when “Hurricane Drew” reigned as can get a tad loud evenings. the King of Bacchus XLII in 2010, ‘Best Sports Bar in Terrebonne Among the array of cocktails, just a week after he led the Saints Parish’ less than a month after try the bold and spicy Buzzy to victory in Super Bowl XLIV, it opened,” general manager Bayou made with Agave Loco and was named MVP. Although Brett LeBlanc pointed out. Pepper Cured Reposado Tequila, the Saints won’t be marching “We’re not just passive investors,” Cathead Hoodoo Chicory Liqueur, into the upcoming Super Bowl Drew stated. “Brittany and I are jalapeno honey simple syrup 50, it will be held Sunday, Feb. committed to working closely and sour mix, garnished with a 7, and coincides with Bacchus, with Brandon and the team to do lemon wedge or the refreshing which rolls at 5:15 p.m. Since the whatever we can to contribute Ruston Grove designed with kick-off will be at around 3:30 to Walk-On’s success going Ruston peach infused bourbon p.m., Super Bowl fans and parade forward.” Brandon Landry and with Chinese 5 spice, orange peel, revelers may catch the last half Jack Warner, the founders, were Bitter Truth Pimento Dram and on a mobile device (for the first former LSU basketball teammates. Eat this The Buck & Johnny's The property was originally a car dealership, Buck & Johnny’s previously focused on El Guapo Polynesian Kiss bitters, time, NBC will be live streaming Best bets among the starters: appetizer platter: so there’s plenty of antique car memorabilia, gourmet pizzas, and then added several Italian 100 Berard St. // Breaux Bridge peach amaretto simple syrup the Super Bowl halftime show, The seared Ahi Tuna medallions Includes drunken 337/442/6630 including the recently installed gas pump in specials. Since Chef Savoy came on board, it and an orange peel for garnish. which will feature Katy Perry and served over Asian mango slaw, shrimp, praline the lounge, plus quaint lighting and signage has become the most popular restaurant in special guest Lenny Kravitz). spicy boudin balls with a side of chicken laced with throughout the restaurant, with its cathedral- town, offering an expanded menu of authentic Dijon horseradish, and the duck local Steen’s syrup, Whether you’re a newcomer or a longtime height ceilings and fetching loft. The special Cajun dishes and creative specials. Live music and andouille gumbo. There are fiery wings, stuffed regular, chances are you will feel at home at events hall next door, the Glass Room (popular adds to the allure and so do the excellent for weddings and political events), is located specialty cocktails galore, plus mushrooms and fresh Buck & Johnny’s in downtown Breaux Bridge. martinis. Eat this Friggin’ beside a large antique mall that is just down burgers, poor boys, great salads, catfish bitesDrink Owner Coatney Raymond, who took over in Fig-n-Pig: Flatbread made the street from Café des Amis, known for its The pizzas are tops. For starters, order the crab wraps and Louisiana specialties, this Tiger Bait: 2013 after her husband Johnny passed away, with fig preserves or the weekend zydeco breakfast. portabella brie soup, made with a rich, creamy the best of which is the blackened Curaçao, cranberry recently expanded and renovated the lounge, broth, or the award-winning zydeco gumbo. Love You, Long Time hot catfish Atchafalaya, topped juice & vodka which now seats 60, and is adorned with deep Although the lounge is normally jamming For the main course, try the blackened tilapia dog: Beef frank topped with with spicy étouffée and a pile leather chairs. It opened during Mardi Gras, during both college and NFL games, the finished with a smooth shrimp basil cream, the spicy mayo, pickled carrots, of crisply fried crawfish tails, a 2015 and is flanked by a small courtyard that restaurant side is where most fans gather for zesty crawfish enchiladas with plenty of pepper jalapeños, cucumbers favorite of Brees and his family. opens through garage doors. Named the Filling football viewing, while simultaneously enjoying jack, or the pan-fried crab cakes that melt in and fresh cilantro Drink Station Lounge, it’s where fans gather for team the delectable Cajun cuisine prepared by Chef your mouth, enveloped in a fragrant pesto this THE RUSTON GROVE: spirit and handcrafted cocktails named after Tony Savoy. He was formerly the head chef of cream sauce. Be sure to grab a quart of gumbo Peach-infused bourbon and cars. “We stay open as late as the games are Mulate’s in Breaux Bridge and New Orleans. from the freezer on the way out. Chinese 5-spice playing, and it’s always packed,” she says.

44 | acadiana profile DECember 2015/january 2016 acadianaprofile.com | 45 Black’s Oyster Bar 319 Pere Megret St. // Abbeville 337/898/2597

In Vermilion Parish, if you want to catch a college game and enjoy some excellent seafood among major LSU fans, stop by the recently reopened Black’s Oyster Bar across from the “big” church, just a half-block from picturesque Magdalen Square. Fighting Tiger die-hards continue to watch the college games with spirit, even though LSU’s star running back Leonard Fournette’s grip was loosened on the Heisman Trophy when he was overpowered by Alabama’s Crimson Tide defense in November. There are always the playoffs. Black’s 44-foot bar, frequented by ultra-friendly locals, is flanked by a couple of large flat screens and several dining tables, which are taken once the adjacent, cavernous restaurant fills up on weekends and during Thursday karaoke nights. The new owners, Corey Gardener and Chance Thomas, have gone all-out with renovations and the food, so just about everything is tops on the menu, and the lunch specials are always generous and reasonably priced. Of course at Black’s, you should start with their pride and joy, the plump, Fat Pat's Bar & Grill salty Grand Isle bivalves on the half 626 Verot School Road // 337/504/4288 shell that you can also order in three Loggerhead’s Bar 117 Westmark Blvd. // 337/706/8882 styles of chargrilled (they’re a sure Lafayette 3748 Hwy. 3059 (Old Town Road) match for Drago’s in New Orleans). Lake Charles // 337/491/6794 gumbos or pig roasts for parties. Eat this Burgers: Big and juicy with The Bloody Marys are legendary, good Pizzas and above-average burgers If you’re a fan of the college football bowls onion rings and fried for any time of the day or night, and are served, as well as boiled (Dec. 19-Jan. 2) and plan on following the Jan. 11 If you’d like to catch the NFL seafood spiced just the bartenders are skilled at whipping shrimp, pulled pork and chicken College Football Playoff National Championship games off-the-beaten path right. Drink this up whatever cocktail you desire. Drink wings, served in baskets lined with (which Dr. Pepper has paid a whopping $35 overlooking the water, and sit Gator Bite cocktail: specials run throughout the week. fleurs-de-lis in honor of the Saints. million for sponsorships through 2020), you’ll Starters to nibble on during the games beside a roaring fire, head to Refreshing yet powerful Inside the bar, there are a couple want to watch the games where the casual include the spicy etouffee balls, crisply Loggerhead’s Bar in Lake Charles and containing three of fireplaces where you can warm college fans geaux. Fat Pat’s Bar & Grill on Verot fried frog legs, tender strips of fried on the Calcasieu River. This casual kinds of rum distilled in up on a chilly winter night, while School Road is the spot. Both college and NFL rabbit laced with Hebert’s Specialty spot is a big Saints hangout, but nearby Lacassine: Bayou the outside deck offers splendid fans gather at this iconic sports bar for team Meats seasoning, and the shrimp en they also tune into the college Rum’s Silver, Spiced sunsets, gorgeous views and a camaraderie. You’ll find plenty of flats screens, brochette. The earthy, dark chicken and football games. and Satsuma rums are patio with a tiki bar. Locals often and also an individual TV in every single booth, sausage gumbo will warm you up on blended with orange You can get there by car or by drive up to the dock on their which allows you to watch any game that’s on. a cold winter’s night. The oyster poor and pineapple juices and boat and pull up right to the dock, boats, and use the bait stand that Younger fans tend to gather at the second, boys, seafood platters, salads topped Grenadine, served on where the Lady of the Lake three- sells fuel, ice, tackle and supplies. newest location on Westmark Blvd., where there with grilled shrimp and tuna, crawfish the rocks decker 102-foot yacht, rented for Some beautiful yachts pass by are six TVs on the patio. or fried oysters and juicy steaks topped evening dinner cruises and private at night. This small, casual bar Specialties are the burgers (ask for the unusual with crabmeat are all sure bets. parties, is parked. It usually goes is popular among locals who but surprisingly good peanut-butter-and-bacon out once a month but is especially prefer watching the game at a burger or the signature Mile High burger, which popular during the holidays. Live non-sports bar, with the added is layered with pepper jack cheese and a trio music on Sundays usually starts allure of a water view just about Eat this Fat Boy of grilled yellow, red and green peppers, then around 4 p.m. on the patio, and Eat this raw oysters: Enjoy a 15 minutes from downtown Lake Mile-High burger: dressed) and the hot dogs (try the Dome dog, there are live local bands several dozen salty, plump oysters on the Charles. Owner James Mistretta A two patty burger made with andouille, and topped with red times during the week, from Cajun half-shell fresh from Grand Isle. has mentioned that he may with an option to pile beans and Creole mustard). If you’re not in the French bands to jazz ensembles. Drink This The Mosquito Bite: a be planning an expansion of on the toppings Drink mood for dogs and burgers, order the shrimp Although it’s not a full-service refreshing mojito made with Bayou Loggerhead’s bar to include an this Margaritas: grilled in garlic butter, dressed and served restaurant (you order at the Silver Rum and fresh mint eventual restaurant and resort powerful and will have on a sweet bun. Good bar food, but the main concession stand and bring it with cabins, so stay tuned. you rooting for the attraction is the atmosphere that includes inside), the staff occasionally has home team in no time. sports memorabilia, fans and especially those prepared specials such as chili, booths with individual TVs.

acadianaprofile.com | 47 BEST NEW RESTAURANTSBESTNEWRESTAURANTS

this page: Chef Kevin Thompson of Favorites Southern Kitchen presents his seafood cioppino.

Acadiana’s diverse culinary scene grows by leaps and bounds every year. Lafayette alone has seen new restaurants opening monthly, but it’s the variety that gives us foodies pause, from the traditional Cajun and Creole to a fusion of flavors and farm-to-table cuisine. There are even those eateries, such as The Duke in Houma, daring to not only cook outside the box but also batter and fry the box itself. Here are a few new restaurants contributing to the vast culinary landscape of Acadiana. by Cheré Coen // photos Denny Culbert best new restaurants BEST NEW SUGGESTED RESTAURANTS DINING: ASIA clockwise: Favorites’ seafood cioppino // Asia’s crispy duck // Favorites’ Starter: The buttermilk pancakes Rock-N-Shrimp serves up Foster crispy fried shrimp accented by a spicy mayo sauce, so good you might want to enjoy it as an entrée. For sushi, try the Lake Charles roll that consists of crawfish, FAVORITES avocado and that delicious SOUTHERN spicy mayo. KITCHEN/ Main course: The crispy duck slices up roasted ASIA duck with scallions and steamed rice topped by Hoisin sauce. For something more on the wild side, try the Hunan shrimp served with The dining scene at baby corn, broccoli, carrots, L’Auberge Casino and mushrooms, snap peas water chestnuts and a spicy Resort in Lake Charles sauce. continues to evolve. Dessert: Asia doesn’t In December, the café serve desserts, but the aptly morphed into Favorites named Desserts store is only Southern Kitchen, while a few feet away, serving up a Asia expanded both its wide variety of gelato, chocolates and pastries, all kitchen and floor space house-made. and added a sushi bar. The casino cafe has long been known for its breakfast and several Abita beer and the spinach down-home dishes such and frisée salad topped as the crawfish grilled with a poached egg that’s cheese sandwich, but breaded in Panko crumbs now Favorites Southern and flash-fried so it’s crispy Kitchen offers an expansive on the outside and gooey menu, updated décor on the inside. and seating in the newly “It allows us to be more opened terrace overlooking cutting edge,” Thompson Its latest expansion SUGGESTED DINING: the resort’s lazy river. says of the 24-hour restau- increased seating to 122, FAVORITES SOUTHERN KITCHEN “It was like a breakfast rant, which now follows plus a private dining destination,” Chef Kevin a bistro style. “We run room and sushi bar, Thompson says of the the gamut with what we Miller-Vincent says. The original cafe. “Now we’re offer but we still offer the recent renovation, which Starter: Main Dessert: opened in December, New on the menu course: The Choose between pushing it as a destination comfort foods you enjoy.” are seafood Louisiana-style the key lime for not only breakfast Asia opened with also allowed the resort beignets, a seafood cioppino cheesecake but for lunch and dinner the resort in 2005 as a to increase the kitchen portion of five combines lobster, topped with either beignets shrimp, grouper, a mango purée or as well. The ambiance small restaurant serv- capacity to allow Chef Vilavong Prasith to comprised of redfish, mussels, a raspberry purée is very different.” ing up Asian-fushion shrimp, crawfish clams and or the bananas enhance the Asia menu. this page: The breakfast every- specialties. Because of its and crabmeat crabmeat in a Foster sundae: Asia’s one loved is still there, popularity, the resort soon topped with a saffron-tomato bananas cooked Lobster Favorites Southern chipotle aioli. “It seafood broth. in Myers rum and Roll Thompson explains, expanded the restaurant Kitchen // Asia // gives us a chance The dish is cinnamon until though there are now to increase seating. L’auberge Casino to showcase accompanied by they are glazed, what Louisiana steamed red then served over quiches, casseroles and “We had already Resort // Lake Charles // has to offer with potatoes and homemade freshly made cinnamon llakecharles.com expanded once, and it still its seafood,” crusty bread for banana gelato rolls. The expanded dinner wasn’t big enough,” says Chef Kevin dipping into this and topped with menu now includes wine Stephanie Miller-Vincent, Thompson says. goodness. fresh whipped service and dishes such as director of L’Auberge cream. the short ribs braised in food and beverage.

54 | acadiana profile april/may 2015 BEST NEW RESTAURANTS this page: Chef/ owner Ryan Trahan adds strawberry snow to his brûléed cheesecake dessert.

left: Chef Cory Bourgeois plates the catch of the day. right: Dark Roux’s root vegetable salad.

After selling his interest In fact, except for his the eatery. Items such Both are in their 20s and dark in Brick & Spoon, Trahan organic corn grits that as bacon, sausage and collaborating on a new, roux opened Dark Roux Dec. hail from California, even the kombucha tea burgeoning food scene. 29, 2014, in the same everything on the menu are all made in-house. “We are very similar restaurant space on Kaliste begins in Louisiana. The alcohol also has culturally but have different Saloom Road in Lafayette. “Almost everything is a local connection, food backgrounds,” Trahan Ryan Trahan has long His menu features dishes purchased in Louisiana Trahan says, including explains of the team. advocated farm-to-table by Trahan and Chef Cory and about 75 percent Louisiana-produced beer cuisine, promoting locally Bourgeois that incorporate comes from the Lafayette and wine from France, 3524 Kaliste Saloom Road, produced food products produce and meats from area,” Trahan says. Spain and German, three Suite 101 // Lafayette // 337/504-2346 // of Acadiana. He opened local growers such as In addition, produce countries with cultural darkrouxla.com Lafayette’s hip Brick & Gotreaux Family Farms, such as oregano, chives and ties to Louisiana. Spoon with Bryan Jewell Mary Mary Markets, collard greens is grown in Trahan is a self-taught but wanted to get back to Urban Naturalist, the restaurant’s gardens, in cook from Lafayette his core ambitions of keep- Inglewood Farms and the surrounding parking while Bourgeois cut his ing everything Louisiana. Bread & Circus Provisions. lot and even throughout teeth in New Orleans.

SUGGESTED DINING

Appetizer: The root vegetable salad topped Entrée: Dark Roux’s catch of the day arrives Dessert: A blood orange flavors a cream with an arugula pesta with locally produced goat fresh from Gulf waters and served with locally mixture that’s frozen with liquid nitrogen to cheese is a prime example of Dark Roux’s grown sides. For instance, the pan-seared red produce a powder that looks like snow. This “snow” commitment to serving only Louisiana-grown snapper with ham consume is served with charred then tops an ice cream-stuffed marshmallow that products. bok choy and crispy shallots. arrives on a stick to enjoy like in the good ol’ days.

acadianaprofile.com | 57 BEST NEW RESTAURANTS clockwise: Funky dining atmosphere // co-owner Reneé Gary // crispy catfish appetizer SUGGESTED DINING

Appetizer: Very thinly sliced catfish that’s lightly battered and fried make up the catfish fries appetizer that comes with a creamy artisan tartar sauce. The cream and perfectly seasoned corn and crab bisque is a favorite among customers. Entrée: Fresh Louisiana bluepoint crabmeat makes up the crab croquettes that are panko-battered and fried and served on a toasted croissant with a house- made New Orleans-style tartar sauce. Dessert: All desserts are made in-house but the pistachio cake is one hailing back to co-owner Renée Gary’s roots, a cake flavored with crushed pistachios in both the cake and whipped cream-pow- dered sugar frosting that’s finally topped with coconut.

FRICASSéE CAFÉ & also contained the office Popular items include during the season, crab BAKERY for Nanny’s Candy Co., the creamy corn and cakes with a horserad- but that operation has crab bisque, the stuffed ish aioli and lots of fried since moved next door shrimp appetizer, catfish seafood and beef options. Opening a restaurant restaurant business is not (restaurant patrons will fries with an artisan “The place takes on seemed a natural fit for for the faint of heart. But get a delicious whiff of tartar sauce and the a completely different Acadiana natives Eddie the Garys, who have run pralines upon arriving). housemade chicken salad. ambiance at night,” she this page: and Renée Gary. Nanny’s Candy Company Seafood platters and says. “We really kick Crab Fricassée serves Creole croquettes “Eddie and I both love in Carencro for 26 years, and Cajun lunches poor boys are offered as up the menu as well.” served on a toasted food and we love to cook, envisioned the prospect weekdays, offering fresh well as the old-fashioned croissant with and we’ve entertained as a retirement job, one Angus beef burgers. 3823 N. University Ave. // housemade produce, meats and fish tartar sauce guests for years,” Renée with limited hours. dishes. The kitchen is Café Fricassée has Carencro // 337/886-6353 // facebook.com/fricassee Gary says. “People always They opened Fricassée helmed by Chef Larry become so popular with said, “You all should Café & Bakery in Carencro Nico Jr. of Lafayette. the locals that the Garys open a restaurant.’” last summer, in the house “Everything we do is now offer dinner hours Suggesting is one thing; once belonging to Eddie’s fresh,” Renée Gary says. Fridays and Saturdays, doing is quite another. The grandparents. The building “Nothing we do is frozen.” featuring boiled crawfish

58 | acadiana profile april/may 2015 acadianaprofile.com | 59 BEST NEW RESTAURANTS

top: Rustic modern dining room of Urbano’s. bottom: Argentino Taco with sliced steak. Urbano’s Taqueria SUGGESTED DINING

As a child growing up in Honduras, Ricardo Valerio was ambitious, Appetizer: Nothing starts a meal selling fruit on the streets better at Urbano’s than at age 12 and cooking their homemade steaks streetside at 14. margaritas coupled with Even though he later fresh guacamole or fried salted plantains. Natural owned a bar and worked or Mexican sodas are in the hotel industry in available for non-alcohol his native country, his drinkers. father, a USL graduate, Entrée: You’ll want encouraged him to come to tango enjoying the to Lafayette to study. Argentino Taco that Valerio graduated USL combines sliced steak that’s been marinated (now the University of for 48 hours and Louisiana at Lafayette) in coupled with queso engineering but found it fresco, spring mix and difficult to get a job since chimichurri inside a six-inch corn tortilla. he wasn’t a U.S. citizen. He reinvented himself once Dessert: Urbano’s more and opened Urbano’s version of the tres leches cake – a sponge cake Taqueria, a hip Latin with three types of milk American taco eatery. – is owner Ricardo “I’ve always wanted to Valerio’s mother’s recipe bring something different to but topped with a shot of Kahlua. Because of that Lafayette,” Valerio says. alcohol infusion, Valerio Urbano’s is a “world calls the dessert tres inside a tortilla,” Valerio boracho, or “three explained, incorporating drunks.” the tastes of Latin America within its cuisine and not just Mexico. “We’re urban; this page: The Homeboy we’re street food.” Taco features The menu remains Panko breaded pork, sweet sauce, spinach, Tamales are made with town and plans to open said. “I came here without shrimp, cabbage, simple: 28 tacos with queso fresco and corn. plantain leaves, Valerio’s the second Urbano’s soon. a single penny and now raw radish, green names and corresponding onion, cilantro For those who want to grandmother’s recipe, and He also runs a food truck I have all this. It’s about and sweet Thai flavors such as the Jamaican he recently introduced chili sauce. remain closer to home, and offers party planning. hard work.” Surf with grilled shrimp culinarily speaking, there’s rice and salad bowls. Valerio chalks up pineapple, rotisserie corn, the gringo taco with The restaurant has his success to ambition, 2023 W. Pinhook Road jerk sauce and lettuce and Angus beef or shredded taken off so well, Valerio perseverance and sweat. //Lafayette // 337/534- tomatoes; or El Cubano chicken and lettuce, has purchased the two “Nothing is impos- 0529 // facebook.com/ Urbanostaqueria with honey ham, pulled tomatoes and cheese. Bullrito’s franchises in sible,” the 30-year-old

60 | acadiana profile april/may 2015 acadianaprofile.com | 61 BEST The NEW Other dishes include RESTAURANTS Duke the “Meat-A-Butter Sandwich,” an eight- ounce patty topped with The latest addition to peanut butter and bacon the Houma culinary scene on toast and the pulled is an eclectic diner that pork nachos that combine doesn’t shy away from shredded pork, buffalo innovation, though your sauce, bacon, jalapenos, this page: Deep fried cardiologist may have onions, tomatoes, cheddar The Duke Oreos cheese and avocado ranch drizzled with some concerns. Appetizer: Big enough to feed several people are the buffalo fries which starts chocolate The Duke on Main dressing. For something with French fries, then cheddar cheese, The Duke’s homemade buffalo sauce, chicken syrup. Street in downtown Houma truly unique, try the bites, blue cheese crumbles, homemade basil blue dressing and bacon on top. American sushi, a hot dog serves up hearty and Entree: Get out plenty of napkins for the Hangover Burger, eight ounces of beef innovative fare such as The with blue cheese, onions on a biscuit with grits, a fried egg, cheese and bacon with gravy fries on the side. and bacon inside a bun Hangover Burger, which Dessert: The Duke will fry anything you bring them for $2, but for something starts with an eight-ounce that’s battered and fried fried on the menu we suggest the fried Oreo cookie with vanilla ice cream on top that’s beef patty topped with a and then cut up like sushi topped by a drizzle of chocolate syrup. fried egg, grits, cheese and and topped with sauces. bacon and served with a Make sure to save room helping of gravy fries. for dessert – again, don’t “It’s a heart attack on tell your physician. Choose a plate,” kitchen manager from the fried Oreos Rick Voisin says with a topped with ice cream or laugh. “It’s pretty messy. the fried cheesecake or You need a lot of napkins.” bring in your own sweet The buffalo fries are dish, from candy bars to a top seller: fries loaded cakes, and The Duke will SUGGESTED DINING with cheddar cheese, batter and fry them. chicken bites, blue cheese “We will fry anything crumbles, bacon and two for roughly two bucks,” Appetizer: Big Entree: Get out plenty Dessert: The Duke will enough to feed several of napkins for the Hangover fry anything you bring them dressings, The Duke’s Voison says. people are the buffalo Burger, eight ounces of for $2, but for something homemade buffalo sauce 7819 Main St., Houma fries which starts with beef on a biscuit with grits, fried on the menu we and basil blue dressing. // (985) 262-0203 // French fries, then cheddar a fried egg, cheese and suggest the fried Oreo cheese, The Duke’s bacon with gravy fries on cookie with vanilla ice “It’s just stacked up in thedukerestaurant.com a giant plate,” Viosin ex- homemade buffalo sauce, the side. cream on top that’s topped chicken bites, blue cheese by a drizzle of chocolate plains. “It could probably crumbles, homemade basil syrup. feed four people.” blue dressing and bacon on top.

clockwise: The Hangover Burger // buffalo fries // pop art wall in dining room

62 | acadiana profile april/may 2015 acadianaprofile.com | 63 BEST NEW RESTAURANTS

Le Petit Le Petit Gateau bakery ber, selling items one even a “hat tree” filled desserts. The Royal Court Gateau and tea parlor in Sunset. would find in a French with exquisite handmade Tea includes soups and salads At first, she consid- bakery – éclairs, palmers, hats for those who want to and the sandwiches are “more ered opening a place in croissants and cookies, dress the part, a favor- involved,” Bergeron explains. Lafayette, but competition even a traditional French ite with young girls. “The last one we did was a Mary Bergeron worked was stiff and she worried king cake during Carnival Le Petit serves up both roasted duck sandwich.” in the oilfield regulatory about getting lost in the with a religious medallion the traditional English The bakery is open from compliance for 30 years, busy culinary scene. inside. Jumping over the High Tea and a Royal 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesdays but when her company “In Lafayette, I would Channel, so to speak, Le Court Tea by reservation. through Saturdays with went under, she started have been just another Petit also serves up English High Tea consists of three Sunday reserved for private considering a new career. bakery,” she says. “Sunset, tea service beneath crystal courses of tea sandwiches parties. Bergeron hopes to Marrying her love of baking it’s a good fit.” chandeliers and among such as cucumber, egg expand hours and services with Acadiana’s lack of a Bergeron opened Le comfortable chairs and salad and chicken-almond as the bakery finds its legs, tea salon led to her opening Petit Gateau in Novem- chaise lounges. There’s croissant plus scones and and include events such as storytime, holiday parties and larger food offerings for the lunch crowd.

829B Napoleon Ave. // Sunset // 337/662-3000 // lepetitgateau.co

clockwise: Chicken- almond salad on a croissant // Seven Princes Flowering tea // owner Mary Bergeron

SUGGESTED DINING

Main Course: Chicken-almond salad on a croissant is one of the many sandwiches served at High Tea, but many times patrons may purchase a larger sandwich for lunch. Dessert: The white chocolate cranberry pecan cookies offer something chunky in each bite and the restaurant’s scones are moist and soft, a perfect accompaniment to tea. Tea: The Mother’s Day Tea is naturally decaffein- this page: ated but carries a delightful White chocolate taste of spearmint and the cranberry China Milky tastes of cream pecan after being brewed, a cookies “surprise tea” says owner Mary Bergeron. The flowering teas sink to the bottom of the glass pots and open as they brew. “It makes this beautiful display,” Bergeron says.

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