kermit lynch wine merchant OCTOBER 2016

Giacomo Tincani of La Basia © Gail Skoff

a plethora of new arrivals from italy

comte abbatucci collection savoie classics you are inviteD Please join Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant for our botanical GarDen tastinG In the stunning setting of Julia Morgan Hall in the UC Botanical Garden at Berkeley, taste classics, new arrivals, and very special selections from our French and Italian portfolios.

Friday, October 28, 2016 Julia Morgan Hall 6:30–8:30 p .m . UC Botanical Garden $50 200 Centennial Drive, Berkeley

To purchase tickets, please call the store at (510) 524-1524. Limited space available. For your convenience, a parking lot directly across the street from the event will be available. /\ DOMAINE COMTE ABBATUCCI by Chris Santini hen Jean-Charles Abbatucci returned home to the family farm in Corsica after a long leave of absence, he found something curious. WHere he was, in the heart of Corsica, an island with a distinct language and culture, where just about everything is uniquely Corsican, as opposed to French. He stood overlooking his vineyards, where native wild herbs such as Immortelle de Corse, Népita, and Myrthe thrived, a sight unseen in any other part of the world. Yet in the middle of so much uniqueness lay what Jean-Charles called “the Foreign Legion”: row upon row of French vines, mainly Grenache, Cinsault, and Carignan. While there’s nothing wrong with those varieties, the curiosity was that next to the sprawling rows of French vines were just a couple of short, neglected rows of native, unique Corsican varieties—Carcajolu-Neru, Paga Debbiti, Mo- rescola, and Montaneccia, to name a few. Jean-Charles’s father had planted the French vines years ago, doing what was necessary to make a living, given that the French varietals were all there was a market for. For Jean-Charles, though, the mission was clear. His father had had the foresight and tenacity to maintain a few plants of all the indigenous varieties that had fallen out of vogue, so Jean-Charles set about sending the Foreign Legion home and replanting the native vines in their proper habitat. The result was nearly instantaneous. The native fauna and flora immediately reconnected with the vines, each of which found its part to play in the complex ecosystem it was best suited for. Spraying harmful, foreign chemicals seemed counterproductive, so Jean-Charles converted to organic, then biodynamic, farming, applying the principle that if he couldn’t eat it, it wasn’t getting sprayed on his vines. He now uses local weeds and plants to make infusions for homeo- pathic vineyard treatments. The Diplomate blanc, Général blanc, and Ministre rouge are from the original Corsican varietal holdouts that spawned the revolution. The Diplomate is rich, exotic, and appealing; the Général is taut and firm, herbal and aromatic; and the Ministre is powerful, smoky, and mineral at the same time. All are monuments to the grandeur of the forgotten Corsican varietals. per bottle per case 2014 Cuvée Collection Blanc “Diplomate d’Empire”...... $96 .00 $1,036 .80 2014 Cuvée Collection Blanc “Général de la Révolution” ...... 96 .00 1,036 .80 2014 Cuvée Collection Rouge “Ministre Impérial” ...... 96 .00 1,036 .80 BURGUNDY by Anthony Lynch

2014 SANTENAY BLANC 1ER CRU “LE BEAUREPAIRE” • JEAN-MARC VINCENT Each successive vintage, Jean-Marc Vincent is proving that with high-quality vineyard sites, tireless hard work in the field, and careful mastery of vinifications, Santenay is capable of rivaling more prestigious crus in the Côte de Beaune. Working the vines organically, as Jean-Marc strives to do, is no easy feat: he estimates approximately 700 hours of manpower per hectare are required over the course of a single growing season! The result is palpable with this latest release, among the most pure, precise, classy wines the domaine has yet to make. The Beaurepaire is a deep, expressive Chardonnay with a minerally grain and the subtlest kiss of toast. Enjoy this masterpiece over the next fifteen years. $62.00 per bottle $669.60 per case

2014 SAINT-ROMAIN ROUGE CHRISTOPHE BUISSON On your next trip to Burgundy, wander off the beaten path to Saint-Romain. Isolated in a valley, the village sits under a backdrop of spectacular white cliffs. The top of this limestone precipice, overlooking Saint-Romain’s sloping vine- yards and its ancient crumbling fort below, is not a bad spot for a picnic. Uncork Buisson’s bright, juicy Saint-Romain rouge and appreciate its lively, perfumed Pinot Noir fruit. Then you will have a breathtaking view with an ethereal taste of terroir removed from the hustle and bustle of the main drag—the complete Saint-Romain experience. $40.00 per bottle $432.00 per case

2014 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN RÉGIS BOUVIER Bouvier’s meager holdings scattered around Gevrey allow him to bottle small quantities of this soul-warming red that truly typifies the appellation. Accessible with some decanting or after a few years tucked away, this Pinot Noir is more brawn than brains: profound, rich, and bold, suggestive of forest fruit and un- dergrowth. The carnal gratification it offers is perfect for ushering in the autumn months. $55.00 per bottle $594.00 per case WHITE BEFORE RED SOUTHERN FRANCE by Anthony Lynch

2015 CHÂTEAUNEUF DU PAPE BLANC “CLOS LA ROQUÈTE” FRÉDÉRIC & DANIEL BRUNIER The 2015 growing season in southern France—and most of the country, for that matter—blessed growers with warm tem- peratures and dry conditions, with just enough rain at the right moment. By har- vesttime, the grapes were rather small, but saturated with flavor and, crucially, in per- fect health. The exceptional quality of the crop allowed vignerons like the Bruniers in Châteauneuf to throw grapes in the press with little need for sorting, yielding wines characterized by a brilliant pu- rity. Their blanc from La Roquète is perhaps the most downright drinkable young Châteauneuf white we have ever tasted: suggestions of hay, yellow flow- ers, and wet stone soar from the glass, while the palate displays a chalky tension that resolves to silky harmony over time. There is elegance and sophistication to be savored immediately. $49.00 per bottle $529.20 per case

2015 CORBIÈRES “ROZETA” MAXIME MAGNON Critics argue that carbonic maceration masks terroir and instead stamps its own dominant mark on a wine. But certain combinations of grape and terroir—Gamay in Beaujolais being the foremost example—seem particularly well suited to car- bonic maceration, providing wines with a distinct sense of place in addition to the hedonistic easy-drinking appeal the technique is intended to achieve. In the rugged hills of the Hautes-Corbières, Maxime Magnon has discovered the right formula for his old vines of Carignan, Grenache, and Cinsault. The Rozeta features the exuberant, inviting perfume and velvety wild fruit we expect from a wine that underwent 100% whole-cluster fermentation, then finishes with a crunchy backbone reminiscent of dark schist and roasted spices. Beware—the Languedoc just got dangerously gulpable. $37.00 per bottle $399.60 per case BEAUJOLAIS by Emily Spillmann

2015 BEAUJOLAIS BLANC “CLOS DE ROCHEBONNE” • CHÂTEAU THIVIN Château Thivin would be an excellent setting for a historical drama about a traditional French wine-making family. Its fifteenth-century Mont Brouilly manor rises majestically from the hillside, complete with textured red tapestry wallpaper and an old hound dog asleep in front of a crackling fire. Its wines, too, reflect a bygone era, expressing exactly the class you’d expect from such a regal place. Imagine the juxtaposition of this young-vine Beaujolais Blanc that boasts the richness of classic Thivin with a spunk and verve all its own. It’s as if Marilyn Monroe were to show up on set, all curves and lips and that sexy singsong ren- dition of Happy Birthday, Mr. President. Unexpected and intriguing, but some- how not the least bit out of place. $28.00 per bottle $302.40 per case

2015 BEAUJOLAIS VILLAGES “MARYLOU” GUY BRETON Petit Max is known for producing the most easy-drinking wines of Beaujolais’ Gang of Four. The 2015 Marylou must be the ideal example. Its flirty ruby color and subtle fruit on the nose hint at the thirst quenching to come, but that first airy sip is what makes you want to guzzle in a way totally inappropriate to wine- drinking etiquette. What am I saying? It’s Beaujolais. There are no rules. Tuck in that pinky and gulp this one down to your heart’s delight. $24.00 per bottle $259.20 per case

2015 BEAUJOLAIS • DOMAINE DUPEUBLE Have you ever noticed that drinking wine at lunchtime is not much of “a thing” in the States? The French might pop open a bottle with a simple caprese salad, while we Americans save wine for more special occasions, like dinner. This Beaujolais from Dupeuble is bright, elegant, and approachable, with the added bonus of being so affordable it could become your house wine. Chez nous, this is the bottle I open when I’m not sure what will go best. It always shines, even at lunch with the humblest tomatoes and mozzarella. $14.95 per bottle $161.46 per case SAVOIE CLASSICS FROM ANDRÉ & MICHEL QUENARD by Anthony Lynch

2015 CHIGNIN BLANC Could this be the quintessential Alpine quaffer? I will go one step further—this Jacquère grown on Savoie’s limestone mountainsides may be the crispest beverage to ever grace your palate. Not overwhelming, its acidity sup- plies just the right amount of snap to counterbalance the sprightly fruit that bursts over the taste buds. At 11% alcohol, the whole rests on a delicate frame, making it all too easy to drain the bottle in record time. Enjoy with raclette, grilled cheese, crispy greens, sushi, kimchi fried rice, mollusks, or simply slake your thirst with this crystalline mountain elixir. $19.00 per bottle $205.20 per case The steep vineyards of Chignin

2015 CHIGNIN-BERGERON “LES TERRASSES” The Quenards—all three generations of them, collaborating in the vines and cellar—have mastered more than the simple Alpine quaffer. Their Chignin- Bergerons (the local rendition of Roussanne) have also begun to turn heads and raise the question of whether it is in fact here in the Alps, and not the Rhône Valley, that the grape performs best. Les Terrasses comes from a parcel so steep— even by Savoie standards—that, to make viticulture possible, they built terraces, which are rarely seen in the region. The result is sumptuously refined, flaunting a perfume of wildflowers and exotic fruit that persists gracefully on the palate. Decant it to fully savor this marriage of sun, stone, and fresh mountain air. $33.00 per bottle $356.40 per case New arrivals from italy

PIEMONTE by Dixon Brooke

2011 GATTINARA • FRANCO PATRIARCA Gattinara is part of the Alto Piemonte or upper Piedmont, a region that was historically important for wine and is now enjoying a minor renaissance. Sitting southwest of Lake Maggiore, the Alto Piemonte is planted in fertile glacial val- leys and on jagged, rocky slopes. In Gattinara, the slopes are porphyry, a very hard, igneous rock similar to granite. Franco Patriarca is the third generation of his family to work these vines, and due to a miniscule cellar and even tinier production, there are only a precious few cases of his artisanal, traditional ­Nebbiolo-based red wine to go around. Patriarca’s wine is at once noble and humble, polished and rustic. The smoothness of the tannin reminds me of Noël Verset—handling of the fruit by hand and foot without pumping is the secret. $32.00 per bottle $345.60 per case SICILIA by Dixon Brooke

2013 MOSCATO DI NOTO “NOTISSIMO” RIOFAVARA The sunbaked white chalk slopes of Ispica, with palms, exotic Arabian architec- ture, and warm sea breezes, are the backdrop for this ambrosial nectar that has been produced and enjoyed here in some form for millennia. Simply divine is probably the best tasting note. Contrary to many of the darker, higher-alcohol, thicker Moscatos produced in Sicily—in Pantelleria and Lipari, for example— this one is fresh and vibrant, with great acidity and a dry, cleansing finish. It is not fortified or made from dried grapes. Think Vouvray Moelleux or Jurançon in terms of balance, yet with uniquely Sicilian flavors. The fruits, spices, and perfume are unlike anything you’ve ever tasted. Enjoy Notissimo poured over a bowl of fresh fruit, with a fruit tart, or sip a chilled glass solo as dessert. $24.00 per 500-ml bottle $259.20 per case LIGURIA by Anthony Lynch e love Liguria. The region’s joyous charm is evidenced by its lively wines, delicious creations that speak to an ancient history of grape- Wgrowing on steep slopes overlooking irresistible Mediterranean wa- ters. This tradition lives on through the Ruffino family of Punta Crena: Tom- maso makes the wine, his brother Paolo sells it, their combined dozen children help out wherever needed, and mamma oversees the whole thing with a gracious smile from her vegetable stand in the courtyard of the family home. The wines below paint a mouthwatering picture of Liguria and the Mediterranean through the eyes of a family that has lived off its land for hundreds of years.

2015 PETTIROSSO ALLEGRO PUNTA CRENA The Pettirosso is a gently sparkling dry rosé made from the indigenous Rossese and Cruvin varie- ties. Light and bright on the palate with a delicate mouthfeel and crisp acidity, it recalls little red berries and blossoming flowers. Simply put, it is extremely fun to drink. $19.95 per bottle $215.46 per case

2015 MATAÒSSU “VIGNETO REINÉ” PUNTA CRENA According to Paolo, The Reinè vineyard was planted with Mataòssu in 1930 by my grandfather Francescu, helped by his eldest sons Angelo and Guglielmo (my uncles). These were difficult times, between two world wars, but my grandfather was very courageous. He built terraces and prepared the earth by hand, without tractors, and established a masterpiece that we still admire and proudly cultivate to this day. The eighty-six-year-old Mataòssu vines in Reinè represent some of the very last remaining plantings of this fascinating indigenous white grape. The 2015 evokes grapefruit, smoke, herbs, and sea mist, with fresh acidity slicing through its oily texture before a vibrant, saline finish. $27.00 per bottle $291.60 per case TUSCANY CHIANTI CLASSICO by Dixon Brooke t is exciting to present on this page three different visions of one of Italy’s greatest red wines—and one of my favorite wines to drink with food—as I interpreted by three viticoltori in three different subzones of the region. 2013 CHIANTI CLASSICO • CASTAGNOLI Located on the western edge of Chianti in Castellina, Castagnoli produces wine that emphasizes the vibrancy and purity of Sangiovese. The azienda’s high- altitude terraces covered in fine schist are the source of this noble and graceful Chianti bursting with bitter cherry, blood orange, rosemary, and a touch of smoked meat for good measure. Full-flavored and savory, just like good Tuscan cooking: the two were made to go together. $29.00 per bottle $313.20 per case

2012 CHIANTI CLASSICO • VILLA DI GEGGIANO Geggiano’s fine Chianti, made in an ancient cellar that hasn’t changed since the Renaissance, is a wine of rustic country beauty. Broad-shouldered, with hearty tannin and acidity and a dark, earthy quality to its fruit, it is a lumberjack wine that can cut through anything a Tuscan table can throw its way—wild game and aged cheeses are personal favorites. Geggiano is just north of Siena, in the southern reaches of the Chianti Classico zone. Its owners, the Bandinelli brothers, thus cast their allegiance with the Sienese rather than the Florentines. $26.00 per bottle $280.80 per case

2011 CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA PODERE CAMPRIANO The Campriano farm is in the hills above Greve in Chianti, the first major town in the Classico zone driving south from Florence. Here the galestro schist is prevalent, and the wines are profound and muscular. The family’s Riserva is produced from an isolated parcel surrounded by bosco, or wilderness. You can smell and taste the wildness when you uncork this beauty, preferably with a well-butchered bistecca on the grill. $42.00 per bottle $453.60 per case Our guys at Geggiano have really expanded their horizons. They have opened a trattoria in London, and the cuisine is based on their grandmother’s cooking, which drove Kermit into ecstatic swoons when he first started buying from them. Visit their website to learn more: http://www.villadigeggiano.co.uk/.

The Villa di Geggiano © Gail Skoff

kermit lynch wine merchant—terms and conditions Title to all wines sold by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant passes to the buyer in California, and the buyer is solely responsible for the shipment of wines. We make no representation as to the legal rights of anyone to ship or import wines into any state outside California. In all cases, the buyer is responsible for complying with the laws and regulations, in particular those relating to the importation of alcohol, in effect in the state to which the buyer is shipping alcohol. In placing an order, the customer represents to Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant that he/she is at least 21 years of age and the person to whom delivery will be made is at least 21 years old. LOMBARDIA by Anthony Lynch

2013 GARDA MARZEMINO “LE MORENE” LA BASIA Famously praised in Mozart’s opera Don Giovanni, the Marzemino grape can be found throughout northeast Italy. It arguably reaches its greatest ex- pression as a dry red around the shores of Lake Garda, where it is most likely to be vinified alone as a varietal wine. At La Basia, on the western side of the lake, Marzemino displays its typical aromas of violets, plums, blackberries, and herbs with a forthright deliciousness. Both chewy and refresh- ing, this is the perfect pizza wine, but it performs equally well alongside wild mushrooms, smoked charcuterie, and braised meats. Eccellente Marze- mino indeed! $18.00 per bottle $194.40 per case

EMILIA ROMAGNA by Dixon Brooke

2015 LAMBRUSCO GRASPAROSSA DI CASTELVETRO FRIZZANTE SECCO FATTORIA MORETTO I’m afraid we didn’t pick the wine that was easiest to pronounce for the Amer- ican market. We picked the wine from the single best growing area for the Lambrusco grape in all of Italy: Castelvetro, home to the Grasparossa clone of the Lambrusco grape. This is where the darkest, fullest-bodied, earthiest, most complex, most red-wine-like Lambruscos are produced. Once you taste one, it is pretty difficult to drink any of the light, wispy versions without being disap- pointed. Moretto’s Lambrusco is a deep, characterful, refreshing wine that can be enjoyed from antipasti all the way through the main course, cheeses, and beyond. Dry red Italian sparkling wine with dinner? You’ll love it. $19.95 per bottle $215.46 per case ALTO ADIGE by Dixon Brooke

2015 SCHIAVA • ferruccio CARLOTTO Here is Schiava as only Carlotto seems to know how to do it! Most Schiava is drunk up by the locals in Alto Adige. A light to medium-bodied red with rela- tively low alcohol, it can be consumed throughout the day. This one can be, too, although it aspires to be more than a simple palate cleanser. Plush red fruits, aromatic, very smooth tannin—it is like that initial bite into the flesh of a peach before you get to the tannic skin toward the end. $25.00 per bottle $270.00 per case

FRIULI by Dixon Brooke

2015 FRIULI COLLI ORIENTALI PINOT GRIGIO “Ronco pitotti” • VIGNAI DA DULINE This is what Pinot Grigio tasted like decades ago before the mass market existed. Note the wine’s ever so slightly gray-pink tinge. Note the full body, the voluptuousness—it does a full malolactic fermentation. Notice also how incredibly clearly it translates its terroir. Yes, this Pinot Grigio is terroir-driven, in- tensely stony, and I think it will age quite well. A bottle from the 1980s I shared a few years ago with the old proprietor was very special. $45.00 per bottle $486.00 per case

2013 VENEZIA GIULIA VITOVSKA • KANTE The screaming Bora wind that descends upon the Karst Plateau near Trieste conjures up images of icy cold, stony, salty air that is a combination of the wind’s origin and destination. Picture this, taste this, and you will be imagining the es- sential vein that runs through this chiseled Vitovska from Edi Kante. It is as if the wine were squeezed out of a block of Carso quartz. The refreshment this wine affords with Mediterranean seafood is unparalleled. $35.00 per bottle $378.00 per case VENETO by Dixon Brooke

2015 BARDOLINO “LE FONTANE” CORTE GARDONI Gianni Piccoli, pictured on the following page, is the godfather of the Bardolino and Custoza growing regions. A former fruit taster, Gianni in- herited prime land in both zones and set about to make the best wine of the region, from exclu- sively estate-grown fruit. In terms of typicity, you won’t find a more authentic wine anywhere in Bardolino. Le Fontane is Corte Gardoni’s early- drinking vino that sees no refinement in wood. It has the smoky qualities you’d expect from Valpo- licella, along with a distinct stoniness from the riverbed stones here (similar to Châteauneuf ), silky tannins, and a ravishing perfume of roses, sweet cherries, and damp earth. Manni Nös- sing in Alto Adige told me that he and his harvest team drank an entire case on their afternoon break one day last year. (If you’ve met Manni, this won’t seem at all exaggerated.) $14.00 per bottle $151.20 per case

2015 CUSTOZA • CORTE GARDONI Piccoli’s Custoza was the first Italian wine I ever tasted from the KLWM portfolio, and I think it was the first one that graced Kermit’s shelves. It is incred- ibly complete—it is hard to think of anything out of place or missing—spring-fresh bouquet, complex fla- vors, good body, pleasant acidity, and a stimulating finish. Garganega is the secret weapon in the blend, while a number of other local grapes combine to complete the experience. This charming little Vene- tian white will dance a jig along with any platter you place in front of it. $14.00 per bottle $151.20 per case 2015 BARDOLINO CHIARETTO CORTE GARDONI What does this taste like? Try reading the review of the Bardolino Fontane on the facing page while wearing rosé-colored sunglasses. That may seem too com- plicated, but it gives you the right idea. The flavors are very similar, but instead of enjoying the texture of red wine, you have more crispness and less glycerin, a bit more acidity and a bit less tannin, and you’ll find flavors of peach and melon replacing some of the red cherries and raspberries. One of my favorite rosés in our book, this Chiaretto (the general name for rosé produced around Lake Garda) is perfect for fall barbecues. $14.00 per bottle $151.20 per case

Gianni Piccoli with sons Stefano and Mattia © Gail Skoff p r e s o r t e d it exceptionally friendly at table. Utilize the case discount wisely! dry with just a touch of that bitterness we look for in Italian reds, rendering and aromatic with jumpy notes of flowers and ripe berries, it finishes bone- of dab a need you and dire are times when ready the at have to bottle the is district—this Monferrato and Bonarda—an array of indigenous grapes that thrive in Piemonte’s hilly erator and pantry are all but empty. Composed of Barbera, Freisa, Croatina, for crucial absolutely anyone susceptible is to casually hand whipping up a on bowl of red pasta when the table refrig- Italian all-purpose an Having k ermi t Ly n c h f i r s t - c l a s s m a i l wine merchant u . s . p o s t a g e paid 1605 san pablo ave . s a n f r a n c i s c o , c a VALUE berkeley, ca 94702-1317 p e r m i t n o . 11882 per bottle per $14.00 510 • 524-1524 2015 w w w . kermitlynch . com

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