your crochet toolkit

Every craft needs a toolkit and crochet is no diÑ erent. Apart from hooks and yarn, which will be covered on the next pages, some of the most useful things you’ll need are:

SCISSORS TAPESTRY/ ROW COUNTER It goes without saying that you’ll DARNING NEEDLE This is useful for keeping track of need to cut things when crocheting, how many rows or rounds you yarn, threads, felt or material, and When you have completed your have completed. You can buy a you’ll need a decent pair of scissors beautiful piece of crochet, you’ll traditional barrel-shaped counter, for the task. Keep the kids away have yarn ends to get rid of. You can download an app or keep a tally from them and they’ll stay sharp do this by simply sewing them into with pen and paper. (unlike mine, which are encrusted your work to hide them. Tapestry with glue and blunt as a spoon). needles have a blunt end, so they don’t catch on your stitches, and SEWING NEEDLE a large eye to thread the yarn This is a sharp-ended needle and through. therefore perfect for attaching pretty things like ribbons and STITCH MARKER buttons to your work. It has a smaller eye as it will be used with When crocheting, you’ll often want cotton or embroidery threads. to identify an important stitch in your work. It might be the fi rst stitch of a round, or a particularly THREAD tricky stitch to see. There are If you want to attach pretty things to many designs available, but you your crochet, then you’ll need some can always use a piece of diff erent cotton thread. White and black are a coloured yarn and hook this staple in my kit, but you may want through your stitch instead. a few more colours for variety. You may also like to embroider onto your crochet and if so, you’ll want some embroidery threads in your stash, too.

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TOY STUFFING NON-RUST PINS POMPOM MAKER When making a plush item you’ll When crocheting, you’ll need to pin This useful little tool does exactly as need to fi ll it with something things to keep them in place. You’ll the name suggests and is available fl uff y. Commercially produced toy also need to pin out your crochet in all manner of sizes to enable you stuffi ng is readily available and will if you are blocking your work. The to make some teeny tiny pompoms add substance to your toys and non-rust varieties are essential here or the great big fl uff y sort. cushions whilst conforming to all so they don’t leave nasty marks. the proper safety guidelines. FELT AND Now you just need to SAFETY EYES FABRICS, find somewhere to store Not to be confused with safety your kit, away from sticky goggles, safety eyes are the little RIBBONS AND plastic eyes used in toy making. You fingers and the cat, but I’ll can, of course, embroider features BUTTONS leave that up to you. onto your wonderful creation, but No crafter can ever have enough you may prefer to use safety eyes of these. Don’t forget to raid your instead. Safety eyes are so called ‘pile-of-stuff -to-be-thrown-out’ because they are pushed into your and cut buttons from shirts and crochet and secured at the back fabric from dresses. Crafty knick- with a tight-fi tting washer, making knacks are in plentiful supply from them nigh on impossible to remove. high street haberdashers and online, so arm yourself with a treasure trove SPRAY STARCH of pretties. Sometimes your fi nished crochet piece can be a little fl oppy. GLUE Sometimes it doesn’t matter, Often it’s easier to glue things to but sometimes it really does. If your crochet, rather than stitch you’ve made a crochet snowfl ake them. The best for the job is a PVA- to hang on your tree, then you’ll based glue, such as Tacky Glue, or want it to be crisp and pointy and something similar that will dry clear. spray starch can be used to block your work.

BGC_FINALpages.indd 7 1/27/15 7:39 AM HOOKS 11 1/27/15 7:39 AM1/27/15 7:39 AM

US

IMPERIAL

MM 214- 2.252.5 132.75 12 1/B 311- 113.25 - 3.5 2/C 103.75 9 3/D 4 -4.25 4/E 84.5 - 5/F 5 75.5 6/G - 66 5 7 6.5 472 8/H - 3 9/I 89 10/J 10.5/K 010 0015 00016 11/L 13/M/N - 15/N/P 19 -20 - - - Q 35/S 36 Conversion chart Conversion chart showsThis exciting you the conversions: Note: this is only a guide. byActual sizes can vary manufacturer.

es g check ,

fi ed. Secondly eme yarns. flat bit (the grip), which is e 2.25mm (US 1/B), used with e usually made from plastic so e usually made from ht hook he result could be a very interesting rug. few exceptions, but don’t worry about them T It is also shaped with a hook at one end (bet you see that coming) and a

nd soft, ergonomically engineered hooks, as well fi nd soft, ergonomically engineered OOKS er in circumference to match the diff erent yarn oks differ in circumference to portant piece of your kit. portant piece of your o nly work with one stitch on your hook at a time (apart size. ften stamped with the hook standard hook is shorter than a knitting needle as you standard hook is shorter he word crochet comes from the French word, the French comes from he word crochet ne-weight cotton, use extreme yarn and an enormous s beautifully crafted bamboo ones. The larger hooks s beautifully crafted bamboo ones. The larger s fi ne. m This is actually very easy. First, the pattern will suggest a This is actually very easy. hook size to match the yarn speci Choosing the rig the Choosing the label on the yarn (look for the crossed needles or the label on the yarn (look for the crossed it is only a starting point for hook symbol) but remember working with a slightly choosing the size; you may prefer dear reader, smaller or larger hook than stated and that, i fi hook? It’s also fun to play with the sizing in some patterns; why not take a delicate doily pattern and instead of usin (12–20mm [US 17–36]) ar not too heavy to work with. they’re in millimetr Whilst some hooks have their size printed from a H the needle-lik weights; from H T is the next most and after your yarn, meaning ‘hook’ i A o now). didn’t o whopping 20mm (US 36), used lace weight yarn, to the yarn and other extr with T-shirt often made of aluminium or steel, but you can They are also a on the shaft, many have a letter or number. BGC_FINALpages.indd 11BGC_FINALpages.indd 11 PATTERNS

Ok, so you’ve got a hook, some gorgeous yarn and a bag full of preŖies. You’re raring to go. What you need to do next is find a paŖern and create something amazing. All you need to know about paŖerns is that you’ll find them in two diÑe rent formats – as wriŖen instructions or as a diagram made of symbols.

‘YOU WILL NEED’ LISTS ABBREVIATIONS A written pattern is just like following a recipe. It has its Written patterns usually abbreviate crochet terms to own ingredients list, often imaginatively entitled ‘you make them easier to read and will often supply a key. will need’, which does indeed tell you what you need to You’ll soon get used to working from them and below complete the project. This covers the important things, are the main ones you will fi nd. like the yarn (brand, colour/shade number and quantity) and the hook you will need. It will also include any Back loops only BLO additional materials, such as felt, ribbons and toy stuffi ng. Chain ch It may look like this: Double crochet dc You will need Double crochet decrease dc2tog Half treble htr

• 4mm (US 6/G) hook Right side RS

• 3 x 50g balls Rico Creative Cotton Skip sk Aran in Turquoise (shade 36) • Grey felt Slip stitch sl st

3 • 2 x 9mm ( ⁄8in) safety eyes Stitches sts

Treble tr PATTERNS Wrong side WS Next in a written pattern are the instructions themselves and, just like a recipe, they’ll describe each step you UK–US crochet terminology need to follow. They will be numbered and contain the Crochet patterns can be written with UK or US terms. This information on stitch making for that specific row or means that some of the stitches have a slightly diff erent round. They also use abbreviations. name. It’s nothing to worry about and the diff erences are It may look like this: shown below:

Row 3: Dc 7, dc2tog (8 sts) UK US Double crochet (dc) Single crochet (sc) Now to a beginner, this will look like gobbledygook. For now, all you need to know is that these are the stitches Treble crochet (tr) Double crochet (dc) made in Row 3. Half-treble crochet (htr) Half-double crochet (hdc)

Double treble crochet (dtr) Triple crochet (trc)

The pattern that follows is written in UK terms.

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Use whatever yarn and matching hook you have to hand to practise with, but I would recommend a 4mm (US 6/G) hook and some acrylic double knit yarn. If you find it a bit tricky to see what you’re doing, then you could try some acrylic chunky and a 6mm (US 10/J) hook.

MAKING A SLIP KNOT Whenever you crochet in rows, you’ll need to begin 3. Hold both ends of the yarn with your left hand and with a slip knot. The tail of this knot can be pulled and use your right hand to pull the loop and tighten the tightened to secure the yarn to the hook. knot. 1. First, make a loop with the yarn.

2. With your right hand, grab the middle part of the yarn 4. Put this loop onto your hook and tighten it by pulling tail and begin to pull it through the starting loop. the yarn tail. The knot (and all other stitches you make) should sit on the thickest part of the hook, called the shaft, just after the hook end.

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HOLDING YOUR HOOK HOLDING THE YARN Know this: there is not a right or wrong way to do it. The There are a bazillion diff erent ways to hold the yarn, important thing to know is that your right hand controls the main thing to remember is that your left hand is for the hook, and it is the hook that makes the stitches by feeding and controlling the yarn. creating loops with the yarn. Try this method to start with: There are two main positions for holding your hook. Try 1. Feed the working part of the yarn around your little both and see what feels the most natural. fi nger, and up and over your forefi nger. Your little fi nger and forefi nger control the fl ow of the yarn. The knife hold

In your right hand, hold the hook with your hand over the top, thumb on one side and fi ngers on the other side of the grip.

2. With your thumb and third fi nger, hold the yarn on the hook. This keeps everything in place.

The pen hold

In your right hand, hold the hook as you would do a pen. Again, with your thumb and fi ngers on the grip.

3. Steady the hook with your right hand.

And that, my friend, is a basic hold. Right, don’t move. Just kidding. Try it all again a few times. To begin with, it will feel mighty strange and awkward. But with practise it will become more comfortable and your movements will happen naturally. In no time at all you’ll have developed your own style which suits you. Ready? Then let’s get started…

BGC_FINALpages.indd 15 1/27/15 7:40 AM STITCH TUTORIAL: Chain Stitch

A chain of stitches is a very useful thing and can be as long or short as required. When working in rows it provides the foundation of your piece, and in decorative work it can produce shapes and spaces. In a pattern, chain is written ‘ch’, so a chain of Åve stitches would be written ‘ch5’.

Chart

Try to make your chain fairly loose, In a diagram, chain keep your yarn under control and stitches look like this. your stitches as evenly sized as possible. Your first aŖ empt might be disastrous and you may wonder how this will ever be something preŖ y. This is all completely normal. You will improve, I promise! Practise a few more times until you have something chain-like. It doesn’t have to be perfect but try to relax and get used to the action – it will begin to feel less foreign after a while.

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HOW TO CHAIN STITCH 1. Okay, grab your practise yarn 2. Now twist your hook anti- 3. Catch the yarn with the hook and and hook, make a slip knot with the clockwise so that the yarn is over pull it through the loop already on yarn and secure it on your hook (see your hook. This move is known as your hook. Ch 1 made. Continue in Making a slip knot). ‘yarn over’. the same way to make a chain of 15 stitches (ch 15).

Counting your stitches Turning chain Back of the chain Each crochet stitch produces a ‘V’ When working in rows, you need Just so you know – this is the back shape at the top. The ‘V’ is made to make an extra chain at the of the chain. Those little ridges are of two loops: the front loop (the beginning of each row. This is called the ‘butt’ of the stitch. one nearest you) and the back loop called a ‘turning chain’ and it helps (the one furthest away). When you you reach up to the next row by count your stitches, you should mimicking the height of the stitch never include the loop you are using; a double crochet on your hook as that’s needs a turning chain of just one. the next stitch waiting to happen.

WORKING INTO THE CHAIN There are three diff erent methods for you to try:

Difficult Medium-ly tricky Easy peasy

Insert your hook through both loops Insert your hook under the top loop Why bother with all the faffi ng of the ‘V’ and between the ‘butt’. It of the ‘V’ and the ‘butt’, leaving the around when you can just insert gives a nice fi nish, but it’s a bit of an bottom loop free. This gives a tidy your hook under the top loop and awkward manoeuvre and may test edge and is slightly less tricky than be done with it? The fi nish can be your patience. the fi rst option. a little gappy, but honestly, as a beginner, let’s keep it simple.

BGC_FINALpages.indd 19 1/27/15 7:41 AM STITCH TUTORIAL: double crochet

Double crochet is a short, chunky little stitch that produces a dense, solid material without much stretch. It’s referred to as ‘dc’ in written patterns.

Chart

2 1 Don’t worry about making mistakes. It’s very easy to end up with more or fewer stitches than you started Start with the row at the very bo om, reading Ŗ with and happens to even the most from left to right. This isn’t numbered because experienced crocheter. Crochet behaves it’s the foundation row. Here, it contains 15 chain itself nicely and doesn’t unravel all over stitches. Row 1 runs from right to left and shows the floor. That is what makes it so the turning chain, followed by 15 double crochet easy to correct any problems. Just stitches. Row 2 reads from left to right again with remove your hook and gently pull back the yarn to where the mistake is, or the next turning chain and another row of double the beginning of a row, if that’s easier. crccrochetoco heet ststitches.tittchhese . Then re-insert your hook into the working loop and oÑ you go again…

RememberReR mem mbm to make a turning chain at the bebbeginninggig nnini of every row and then ignore it, ininsertingnseerttinng your hook into the second stitch frffromomom yyouro hook each time.

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Foundation chain: make a foundation chain of 15 First, you’ll need a foundation chain of 15 (see Stitch tutorial: Chain Stitch).

Row 1: (ch 1) dc 15 (15 sts)

1. Chain one (turning chain) 3. You will have two loops on your 5. Repeat this process across and then work back along the hook. Yarn over again. Now pull the your chain, right up to the slip foundation chain just made. yarn through both loops on your knot. You should have 15 double Working from right to left, insert hook. crochet stitches (see Counting your hook in the second chain from your stitches). the hook (ignore the turning chain).

2. Yarn over hook, and pull the 4. Double crochet stitch made. yarn through the stitch. (‘The stitch’ Hooray! refers to the stitch you have just When you crochet in rows, your inserted your hook into. In this illustration, it’s the fi rst loop on work will seem the same on both the hook). sides. However, if you look really closely, you’ll see a diÑ erence between the front and the back of the stitches:

Row 2: (ch 1, turn) dc 15 (15 sts)

From now on, it gets much easier; 2. Starting in the second stitch 4. Yarn over again, this time pulling when you work back through from your hook (ignore the turning the yarn through both loops. chain), insert the hook through both Double crochet made! this, and all the other rows of loops (the ‘V’) of the stitch. stitches, you must work through both loops of the ‘V’.

1. Chain one (your turning chain) and then turn the work, making the double crochet stitches in exactly the same way. 5. Continue across the row, 3. Yarn over hook and pull the yarn remembering to insert your hook through the stitch (you should have through both loops of the ‘V’ and two loops on the hook). count your stitches at the end.

Row 3: Continue as per Row 2 from now on.

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This cafetière cosy is a perfect first project – there are no surprises here. You will practise making a slip knot, chain and double crochet stitches and this is your first chance to work from a very simple crochet paŖ ern.

You will need Making up

To add the ribbon ties, thread the ribbon through your I have used… You will also need... tapestry needle and sew it in between the stitches from • 1 x 100g ball Rowan • A cafetière one side to the other. You might find it easier to put Pure Wool Aran in • 4.5mm (US 7) hook the cosy around your cafetière first. Tie the ribbon into Cedar (shade 674) a bow and tadaaaaaah! Your very first piece of crochet • Tapestry needle is made. 1 • 90cm (35 ⁄2in) length You could use… 1 of ribbon, 3mm ( ⁄8in) • Any yarn and hook to wide and cut into 30cm match, any Aran weight (12in) lengths yarn with some wool content for insulation will work Finished size: 1 28 x 14cm (11 x 5 ⁄2in)

pattern

At the beginning of every Foundation chain: ch 50 Adjusting the pattern row, remember to chain (quite loosely) one and turn. This is Row 1: dc 50 across the You can easily adjust this pattern important as a paŖ ern chain (starting in the 2nd for your cafetière by measuring the will often state this at stitch from hook) circumference. Your starting chain 3 the top, rather than print Rows 2–30: dc 50 will need to measure 2cm ( ⁄4in) less. it on every row. (starting in 2nd stitch To adjust the height of your cosy, from hook) just make more or fewer rows. Fasten off (see Fastening off ). Weave in ends (see Weaving in ends).

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