ISSUE 25 AUTUMN 2009 FREE

Get a taste for London’s local Beers DISCOVER our British Food Fortnight TOP 5

Organic food: Rocked but still on a roll

SUSTAINABLE CHEWING GUM * CHEF SALLY CLARKE * PIE & MASH Say hello ŽÉË iÉ ÔËV i¿ to the TUCK IN! Bulletin 04 Around Town 06 jellied Local to London: London’s Beers 08 On The Menu: Sally Clarke 11 7 ›iÉ››`ÂÉ >¿ŽiËÉi—ˆ—}˛—]É Organic Feature: Organic Fortnight 12 ... Chicza Organic Chewing Gum 15 ÜˆË É>—É>ÔË i—ˈVÉLÔËV i¿¼ÂÉV›Ô—Ëi¿É A Taste of London: Pie and Mash 17 ˆÂÉË iÉwÉ¿ÂËɗiÜÉLÔËV i¿É˛ɛªi—É›—É Shop Window: The Farm Collective 18 With harvest time approaching you So now, more than ever, we need to i—ˆ—}˛—Ɉ} É-Ë¿iiËɈ—É“>—ÞÉ probably won’t have time to read promote the organic movement. This is Reader’s Kitchen 19 this as you’ll be too busy reaping why our colleagues at Sustain have About London Food Link 21 Þi>¿ÂÉpÉ>—`ÉË iɛ—Þɛ—iÉ the rewards of a bountiful crop brought together the leading organic businesses in the UK (including Alara, as Diary 23 (unless, like me, they’ve fallen VÔ¿¿i—ˏÞɈ—É›ªi¿>ˈ›—¯ featured in the previous Jellied Eel) to take victim to hoards of molluscs). When this forward. The campaign needs your you’re not getting your hands dirty, support in its quest to lever funding from Thanks to the Team "Ô¿ÉÂi—ˆ›¿ÉLÔËV i¿É›iÉ ¿i——>—É you’ll be spoilt for choice for events the EU (something most other EU – whether it’s harvest festival, countries have been doing for years on this Content: London Food Link “>ˆ—Ë>ˆ—ÂÉLÔËV i¿ÞÉŽˆÂÉ>ËÉË iÉ Editor: Ben Reynolds British Food Fortnight, Biodynamic issue!). To encourage you we have some Contributors: Katherine Bryant, Gaby De ˆ} iÂËɏiÛi¯ÉŽɛԿÉLÔËV i¿ÂÉpÉ Food Fortnight or Apple Day – organic goodies up for grabs on p12. Sena, Jamie Ford, Ellie Garwood, Jennifer there’s lots coming up (see the diary All you have to do is come up with a slogan Gaskin, Polly Higginson, Seb Mayfield, for the campaign*… Tom Moggach, Hannah Williams Ë iÞ¼ÉLiÉ >ªªÞɲÉÉVÔËÉÞ›Ô¿É on p23). Produced and Published: Hand Up Media " É ,  ]É-i—ˆ›¿É ÔËV i¿ Directors: Tania Pramschufer “i>ËÂÉ>—ÞÉÜ>ÞÉޛÔɏˆŽit One of these events – the Organic Food Also in this issue, we’re pleased to be and Katie Williamson 7 ›iÉ››`ÂÉ >¿ŽiËÉ]Éi—ˆ—}˛— Fortnight – will come under a lot more adding lots of new features, including Design: Martin Seagar scrutiny this year. The organic sector has a reader’s kitchen, and taste of London. Advertising: Rosie Pramschufer, 7 ›iÉ››`ÂÉ >¿Ži˼ÂÉËi>“É›vÉ come under a lot of flack with dropping The latter will, over future issues, look at Wolff Pramschufer different traditional London recipes, the Advertising design support: sales, and the recent research by the Food Patricia Henningsson Ë¿>ˆ—i`ÉLÔËV i¿Âɏ››ŽÉ>vËi¿ÉiÛi¿ÞÉ Standards Agency on the nutritional stories behind them and how to create benefits of organics (see the letter of the them using sustainable ingredients. The Jellied Eel is the free quarterly magazine for 0VS4UFQ"OJNBM8FMGBSF ÂËiªÉ›vÉË iɪ¿›ViÂÂÉpÉv¿›“ÉwÉi`É If you’ve come across any traditional dishes sustainable food in London, produced by London issue on this topic). It would be easy to say Food Link and Hand Up Media. The magazine has 3BUJOH1SPHSBNNFJTBO to the naysayers – ‘well, your loss!’ After all, from Chelsea buns to Lord Mayor’s , a 20,000 circulation, and is distributed to all ˛ɓi>ËÉV›Ô—Ëi¿É˛ÉË iÉ ›ªªˆ—}É please send them in… London Food Link members, and via shops, cafes, BVEJUJOHTZTUFNVOJRVFUP if you want to eat food that often doesn’t taste as good (certainly when compared restaurants, bars, and entertainment venues. *Please note we are not obliged to use any of 8IPMF'PPET.BSLFU L>ŽiËÉpÉË iÞÉ܈ÉLiÉ >ªªÞÉË›É with intensively produced the entries as the slogan for this campaign, Advertising & Sponsorship Enquiries *UFOBCMFTDVTUPNFSTUP ‘fuel’) and is laden with god-knows-what ª¿›Ûˆ`iÉ¿iVˆªiÂÉ>—`Év>ۛԿˆËiÉ but all will be considered. [email protected] VOEFSTUBOEQSFDJTFMZIPX cocktail of chemicals – then it’s your [email protected] choice. But for a movement steeped in Telephone: 0131 226 2674 UIFNFBUTUIFZBSFCVZJOH ªˆVŽÂÉv›¿ÉË iÉ`>Þ¯ campaigning, it is inconceivable that www.handupmedia.co.uk IBWFCFFOSBJTFEBOE organic promoters will give up on trying to Editorial Enquiries USFBUFE7JTJUUIFCVUDIFST convince the unconverted. While many [email protected] 020 7837 1228 people aren't able to choose organic – www.londonfoodlink.org DPVOUFSGPSNPSFEFUBJMT whether through lack of cash or simply Distribution Enquiries because it isn't available everywhere - to stock the Jellied Eel many can make the choice, and still don't. [email protected] 020 7837 1228 o)JHI4USFFU,FOTJOHUPO -POEPO 84&

  ©Pamela Troni .POEBZo4BUVSEBZBNUPQN 4VOEBZT6QTUBJSTBUUIF.BSLFU3FTUBVSBOUPQFO Ben-Editor BNUPQN4VOEBZUSBEJOHQNUPQN Disclaimer: Inclusion of information in The Jellied Eel does not imply m^eb[\eeZicWha[j$Yec that the product of service is endorsed by London Food Link or Sustain. 02/03 Calendars provided by Tom Moggach

COBNUTS growing calendar! Mostly grown in Kent, this cultivated variety of hazelnut is a traditional treat. Crack from their shells and eat fresh. Roast until crunchy and SEPTEMBER sprinkle with sea salt. Use in pestos or stir into With garlic, choose unusual varieties such as creamy rice puddings. Something Fishy in London Elephant or Purple Moldovan. Push individual cloves London’s shoppers are the least likely in the Letter of the Issue! into soil or compost, about two inches deep. Or Also in season: sweetcorn, autumn lamb, pears, UK to buy sustainable fish, a major survey has sow in large module trays and plant out in spring. cucumbers, damsons, spinach, venison, revealed. A Yougov survey for found artichokes, butternut squash, sorrel. that only 44 per cent said they were willing to Sow winter lettuces, rocket, land cress, winter pay more to help protect stocks, well below a purslane and Oriental leaves such as mizuna and OCTOBER Dear Jellied Eel komatsuna. UK average of 51 per cent. Worryingly, 72 per OYSTERS cent were not event aware that some species The point the Food Standards Agency and others seem to miss in the Place nearly ripe tomatoes in a paper bag with were endangered. However, following the recent coverage on nutrients in organic produce, is that anyone working Oysters were once a food for the poor; now launch of the documentary End of the Line, a banana – the gases accelerate the ripening they’re a luxury. To save cash, buy an oyster knife more of London’s restaurants are moving to in the food policy arena could have advised the FSA before they process. and shuck them at home. Store in the fridge, with London’s take endangered species off the list. commissioned the report, that is there's a lack of evidence in this the flat face of the shell facing upwards OCTOBER Here are some of those leading the way: field. The FSA report doesn't say that one is better than the other, it SLOES just says there is a lack of compelling evidence. Why have they chosen If you’re a fan of broad beans, plant outside to get a head start on next year. You should have To make a batch of sloe gin, prick the fruit with FARMS Paternoster Chop House, St Pauls to use headline grabbing statements, which do not really encapsulate a needle, then soak in gin and sugar for a month www.paternosterchophouse.co.uk your first crop by May or June. or two. Give it a shake every week. Serving ultra-fresh, sustainable fish caught off the the report’s findings? Almost a tenth of Greater Cornish coast by experts Chris and Dylan Bean On allotments or gardens, sow hardy green Why are they spending limited government resources to carry out an academic manures on patches of bare soil. Field beans, Also in season: mussels, chestnuts, pears, London – equivalent to quince, grouse, kale, elderberries, kohlrabi, Moshi Moshi, Liverpool Street and report, probably costing tens of thousands of pounds, to tell us what we already know: crimson clover, rye and tares will all overwinter. pheasant, wild mushrooms, watercress, around 16,000 football Canary Wharf, www.moshimoshi.co.uk there is no compelling evidence in this field. If the FSA had spent the elderberries, squashes. pitches - is farmland. Have removed blue-fin tuna from their menus money doing nutritional analysis of various organic and so called conventional NOVEMBER and sell a great range of sustainabe fish goods, then possibly there would now be some real evidence, rather than Your can grow apples in small urban spaces. including many MSC certified varieties this inconclusive literature review. Investigate the ‘ballerina’ or ‘minaret’ varieties - But is the capital compact trees that grow on one vertical stem. NOVEMBER Tom Aikens, Chelsea, www.tomaikens.co.uk CHESTNUTS reaching its true At the forefront of the London Paper's 'Know the At the same time, they could have considered the non-financial costs of each To give clumps of chives a new lease of life, lift agricultural potential? price of your fish campaign', Tom is not serving system, the perceived benefits or otherwise, real price comparisons, why Buy chestnuts that are hard and shiny. Try from the ground and divide. Pot on any surplus any species on the MCS 'fish to avoid list' package organic produce, what are the nutritional ramifications ‘drunken’ chestnuts: slit the skin, roast for and give to friends. fifteen minutes at 200ºC, shaking half way of homogenising and pasteurising milk, I could go on.... Feng Sushi, Kensington, Borough Market, through, then soak in red wine and eat warm. This is the question posed Royal Festival Hall, Fulham, Notting Hill, Tom Beeston // Eat England // [email protected] by a new investigation by what’s in season? CRANBERRIES Chalk Farm, www.fengsushi.co.uk the London Assembly into Celebrating 10 years of sustainability in 2009 and Simmer cranberries with sugar, grated ginger and so they should. Fantastic range of sustainable a splash of water for a simple sauce for game. commercial agriculture species on their menus Tom Beeston receives this mouth-watering goodie bag of SEPTEMBER in London. For more APPLES Also in season: parsnips, leeks, quinces, goose, The Clerkenwell Kitchen, Clerkenwell, cereals kindly supplied by Rude Health. www.rudehealth.com information, or to contribute The aromatic Discovery is the first variety on Jerusalem artichokes, wild mushrooms, walnuts, www.theclerkenwellkitchen.co.uk pheasant, leeks, rabbit. - Known for serving all things ethical, Emma shop shelves, followed by Early Windsors, your views, please contact: and Laura serve wonderfully fresh and carefully Worcester Pearmains, Katy and Suffolk Pinks. selected species day in day out [email protected] 70 Young's pubs in London will be offering special British Food Fortnight menus. www.youngs.co.uk Pamela Troni www.pamelaphotography.com 3 5 Our British Food Fortnight TOP 5! John Lewis stores around Between 19th September and 4th October, a number of events London are running a competition 4 JOIN THE CLUB are taking place around London, here’s our2 our TOP 5! for their chefs to design a menu The Farmers Club, in Whitehall, is inviting its The Royal Brompton Hospital to run throughout British Food in Sydney Street, who buy Fortnight. Main course dishes farming members to provide produce for a 1 Paxton & Whitfield 25% of their produce locally, will contain four British ingredients special British Food Fortnight menu. of Jermyn Street will be running a special is celebrating British Food and pudding dishes must include promotion of British cheeses during British Fortnight 2009 by offering Bramley apples (which celebrates Contact: 020 7930 3751 Food Fortnight 2009. menus incorporating British its 200th birthday this year). www.paxtonandwhitfield.co.uk ingredients for patients, www.lovebritishfood.co.uk staff and visitors. 04/05 4 5 LONDON’S John Carey COMMUNITY VINEYARD EN1

Over 100 volunteers have planted 1500 Bacchus vines AROUND TOWN to launch a groundbreaking new vineyard project in London. Forty Hall Vineyard is a new social enterprise DISCOVER WHAT’S HAPPENING supported by Capel Manor Horticultural College, which IN YOUR AREA! GET ALONG hopes to plant several acres E8 of vines at Forty Hall Farm Hackney AND GET INVOLVED! in Enfield. The vineyard is looking for sponsors and kitchens get volunteers to help raise the funds to plant the happier 1 remaining acres of land Schools in East London will be E13 donated by the College. hosting a series of educational QUEENS MARKET 4 ENFIELD classes about climate change, www.fortyhallvineyard.org.uk SAVED...FOR NOW organic farming, seasonality and healthy, affordable eating from this In May, Newham’s historic Queens Market was September. The classes, starting saved from demolition thanks to local residents, at schools in London Fields, are Friends of Queens Market and London’s mayor. run by caterer Happy Kitchen to Boris Johnson vetoed plans for the site to be 5 3 tie in with Organic Fortnight. replaced by a 31-storey tower block as part of Happy Kitchen are also working a redevelopment by St Modwens. 2 1 with local charity Foodworks to divert food, before it goes to waste, 6 www.friendsofqueensmarket.org.uk into the kitchens of local community support groups, including the Hackney refugee centre. 2 EC1M BEST BITES London Food Link member, St John, Smithfield, tops the list of London restaurants, rated 14th to find out more visit: best in the world in a survey by San Pellegrino www.happykitchen.org.uk on the World’s Best restaurants. St John are renowned for whole carcass use, making their own bread and ethical sourcing. E14 6 www.stjohnrestaurant.co.uk FRUIT & VEG MAKEOVER FOR LONDON’S 3 N1 EDIBLE ISLINGTON CORNER SHOPS Edible Islington is a two tiered grants programme Tesa’s Regional Store in Poplar, Tesa’s store had stocked no fruit and launched by Islington Council to support new Tower Hamlets is the first of vegetables for years. However, with community food growing projects in the borough. The large grants scheme offers capital funding 15 stores across London chosen the support of Buywell, Tesa, a sole from £3,000-£15,000. Small grants from to participate in a scheme to trader and female business owner, £250-£3,000 are also available and are being introduce more fresh, affordable and has been enthused to start selling a managed through Capital Growth. Funding sustainably produced fruit and good range of fruit and vegetables. vegetables into areas where access is available from now until January 2010. The Buywell Retail project is to healthy food is a problem. The managed by London Food Link scheme, which is part of the Buywell www.capitalgrowth.org/grow_food/ and funded by Tower Hamlets project, supports small independent edible_islington/ NHS Primary Care Trust, London retailers and larger Symbol Groups Development Agency and the (, etc) to increase Big Lottery. for more information visit: their stock range, ensuring high quality and enhancing their displays www.sustainweb.org and marketing.

For more information contact: [email protected]

06/07 local to london London’s LOCAL BEERS London, unbeknown to most Londoners, is home to a host of breweries. We have big breweries, like Fuller’s, putting London on the map, and smaller specialist breweries, like Sambrook’s, promoting English producers and traditional methods. Ellie Garwood explores….

Indulging in a locally brewed tipple helps to Micro breweries // Various Venues reduce food (or drink) miles, promote skilled Micro breweries are, as the name suggests, brewers, and support local breweries. But is breweries on a small scale and are on the site of being local enough to be sustainable? the pub or restaurant that owns them. Venues in London that feature their own micro breweries Some believe being organic, carbon neutral or include The Florence (Dulwich), Zero Degrees biodynamic are key factors in any sustainable (Blackheath), The Horseshoe (Hampstead), and produce, and companies such as Fuller’s and Bunker Bar (Covent Garden). Samuel Smith now offer organic options to cater for these customers, with smaller companies, Whether being local entitles London beers to such as Daas beer and Black Isle Brewery, bona fide sustainable status is debatable, but solely producing organic beer. For biodynamic the fact that you can drink a pint round the beers Vollmond is a common favourite, corner from the brewery it was produced in and even a carbon neutral beer, East Green, by has got to account for at least some worthy Adnams, is now available. eco-credentials. And if that’s not enough to sway you, how about supporting local Many, however, believe that being local is economies, local skilled brewers and an integral also integral to sustainability, and for these part of British heritage? Surely we can all drink local beer enthusiasts London is a to that. Eel readers keep your eye out for frothy-headed treasure trove. more on London’s real ale pubs in the coming months. Meantime Brewing Company // Greenwich Meantime brew eleven different types of beer To sample one of the locally and its range is nothing if not diverse. Varieties brewed beers check out: include a Fairtrade coffee beer, raspberry beer and even chocolate beer. L’Oasis / Stepney Green (Meantime) Fuller’s // Chiswick Undoubtedly one of the most famous London Brew Wharf / Borough breweries, Fuller’s has been in business since (Meantime) 1845. London Pride, as many will know, is its The White Horse flagship beverage, but there are over 12 beers in Parsons Green (Meantime) the core range, including organic options and seasonal beers. Earl Ferrers / Streatham (Sambrook’s) Top to bottom: Sambrook’s, Fullers and Fullers Sambrook’s Brewery // Battersea Avalon / Balham Sambrook’s, which celebrated its first birthday (Sambrook’s) in August, aims to reignite the art of craft brew- For an extensive list of stockists visit: ing. Its sole beer, Wandle Ale, is brewed using Coach and Horses traditional methods and materials from local Brixton (Sambrook’s) English producers; in addition, Sambrook’s uses www.sambrooksbrewery.co.uk Maris Otter malt from Warminster Maltings, one Duke of Wellington www.meantimebrewing.com Hackney (Sambrooks’s) of the few remaining floor maltings in the country. www.fullers.co.uk

LOVERS OF REAL ALE OF ALL KINDS CAN, OF COURSE, GET EXTENSIVE INFORMATION FROM THE CAMPAIGN FOR REAL ALE, VISIT: WWW.CAMRA.ORG.UK TO FIND OUT MORE! 08/09 Seasonal on the menu Sally

A lot has changed since Sally Clarke first opened her innovative eatery, Clarke’s on Kensington Church Street in 1984, Isabelle Plasschaert: www.magicmarbles.co.uk Katherine Bryant finds out more…

Clarke’s, a restaurant focused on fish and vegetables – buying the seasonal food with a preference for highest quality ingredients served local supplies, quickly expanded at their peak of freshness. from a space with the capacity to “The constant changing of the serve around 20 to accommodate ingredients available allows the over 90 seats. By 1988, Clarke’s menus to be constantly refreshed included a now award-winning and as a consequence, the bakery and shop selling breads customers also.” baked daily, local cheeses and Sally advocates supporting local hand-crafted truffles. Today, the farmers' markets, growing your shop sells over 600 rotating items, own and incorporating a system from jams and pickles to soups, RECIPE of bartering with friends and salads and sauces - most of which Wild Mushrooms Baked in Cream neighbours. For example, one of are made in-house. with Gorgonzola Mascarpone her customers presses his own 600g wild mushrooms, brushed Clarke’s delivers breads and olives in Provence and produces and trimmed of discoloured parts breakfast goods to over 100 olive oil used in the restaurant’s 50g butter wholesale customers daily kitchen in exchange for lunches including Searcy’s, Harrods, and dinners. Food inspired by such 2 cloves garlic, crushed to a cream with salt Fortnum and Mason, Galvin’s, the transactions eases the challenges Salt and pepper House of Commons and Admirable that come with creating a seasonal 2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley, Crichton. Despite these changes menu. Creating such a menu and 6 sprigs for garnish and the evolution of one woman’s depends on “getting the balance 2 tsp chopped fresh rosemary, culinary vision, Clarke’s maintains right, the colours, textures and and 6 sprigs for garnish its sense of community with making sure that ingredients are 450ml double cream familiar faces and the regular not too readily repeated in a menu. 60g Gorgonzola mascarpone customers – even in the heart of Often menus are finalised five bustling Kensington! In fact, some minutes before the customers Preheat the oven to 180ºC/350ºF/gas mark 4. of the original growers attracted to arrive.” After a successful 25-year Cut the mushrooms into large even-sized pieces. her kitchens still provide produce run, the customers are the Heat the butter in a heavy-based non-stick frying pan, that appears on the day’s menu. convincing testament to the fact add the garlic and when sizzling add the mushrooms. that Clarke’s continues to achieve Toss over a high heat and cook until almost tender. After immersion in the food culture the right balance in seasonal, fresh of Paris while studying at Cordon Season with salt, pepper, parsley and rosemary and food creations. remove with a slotted spoon to an ovenproof dish. Bleu School, and a friendship and mentorship with Alice Waters of To the remaining juices in the pan add the cream Clarkes Chez Panisse in California, Sally and reduce by a third. Taste for seasoning 122 & 124 and pour over the mushrooms. Clarke returned to London with Kensington Church St dreams for her own dining venture. Bake for 10 – 15 minutes or until the cream London W8 4BH has bubbled and started to brown at the Sally’s hope was to serve a www.sallyclarke.com edges // Scoop Gorgonzola mascarpone 4-course daily changing menu into walnut-sized pieces, dot it over the depending on the available fruits, mushrooms and allow it to melt as it is served // Garnish with sprigs of parsley and rosemary . Sally Clarke’s Book: Recipes from a Restaurant, Shop & Bakery is out now, published by Grub Street www.grubstreet.co.uk

10/11 organic Feature organic food

WIN Planet Organic, London’s leading organic fortnight WINE! retailer is now trading on-line. As the Soil Association prepares for Organic Fortnight, Gaby De Sena Great selection of groceries from raw chocolate to brown sushi rice Speciality diet search facility and dedicated gluten free home page embarks on their challenge to host an organic dinner party on a budget Jean Bousquet Tupungato Malbec 2007, Winner Gold Medal Extensive organic beers, wine and spirits offer and discovers that delicious organic food doesn’t cost the earth. International wine Challenge 2009 Luxurious natural skincare brands Wide range of health supplements Recipes, tips and blogs from our organic experts

Gaby De Sena SPECIAL OFFER FOR JELLIED EEL READERS 10% OFF YOUR FIRST ORDER (Enter voucher code: Jellied)

www.planetorganic.com

In recent years, buying organic has In London, we needn’t rush to supermarkets YOUR CHANCE TO WIN! become a trendy way to assert your when there is a wealth of independent organic stockists. I scooped up my loose goods at eco-conscious consumerism. The Soil We are offering a prize of one year's Soil Unpackaged and visited Planet Organic where I Association membership as a reader prize Association works to make sure that it is found everything I needed from Marigold’s The UK’s Unpackaged for The Jellied Eel. As well as receiving the not just a food fashion but rather a Organic Vegetable Stock to Crazy Jack’s quarterly Living Earth magazine and Your local, packaging free, organic grocery sustainable way of life. This year’s Organic Organic Raisins. The assumption that organic discounts on a range of organic products, Fortnight will be held from 5th – 20th food is undersized and misshapen is ludicrous; membership will also entitle you to up to leading organic the shelves were heaving with bright and bulky September, celebrating all things organic 25% off Organic Farm School courses. Weekdays 10am – 7pm, Saturdays 9am – 6pm produce and although I noticed prices were The courses provide the opportunity to and focusing on value for money. higher than non-organic food, I understood that learn practical skills from organic farmers - wine specialist Packaging free shopping, fresh goods, the cost included not only quality, quantity and in bee-keeping, chicken keeping, vegetable Organic food is produced without pesticides or taste but also ethics, health and peace of mind. growing, willow weaving, hedge laying, dry wholefoods, refillable environmentally fertilisers and ensures animal welfare, but at stone walling, and many others. what cost to us? With the recession tugging For starters, I served stuffed red peppers friendly toiletries and cleaning products on our purse strings, the Soil Association is followed by a summer vegetable risotto. To be in with a chance of winning this showing that by going organic, you are actually For dessert, to completely undermine the membership plus a bottle of Vintage Roots and much more. FREE getting a lot more for your money. Eager to test preceding guiltless courses, I made rich organic wine, please come up with a slogan Bring your own containers and 500g refill! this claim, I got involved by holding an organic chocolate pots with organic strawberries and for Sustain’s new campaign to promote the “credit crunch dinner”. But as my fleeting save 50p each time you refill of any wholefoods when mini meringues - an instant crowd pleaser. Organic movement (See www.organicuk.org). bravery dissipated, I fell victim to the common (Contact me through thejelliedeel@sustain you bring this ad and reservations we have about organic food: Will it web.org if you ever want the recipes by the way) your own container be any better? How much will it cost? Please send your ideas to: After some mathematical mastery, I deduced [email protected] The Soil Association’s website is a bible of that my three-course dinner party cost a mere addressed ‘organic competition’* inspiring money-saving tips like “write a £5.28 per head – cheaper than takeaway pizza shopping list” to avoid waste, or “sign up to a and far tastier! The challenge was a success all vegbox scheme”. However, I was most around and whilst I do not expect everyone to *Please note we are not obliged to use attracted to “eat less meat”. With livestock convert to an organic lifestyle overnight, my any of the entries as the slogan for this campaign, but all will be considered. contributing 30% of greenhouse gas emissions senses have certainly been honed to this sus- globally, I went one step further and held a tainable and satisfying alternative. Budget vegetarian dinner party. This would save both brands are all too tempting, especially money and the planet, and would distract from when feeding families. But with support from the fact that, as a lapsed vegetarian, one of the organisations such as the Soil Association, we For more information visit: 0800 980 4992 only fleshy dishes I can master is the can all make small changes with a big impact www.soilassociation.org www.beunpackaged.com . on our health, conscience and environment. vintageroots.co.uk 42 Amwell Street, London, EC1R 1XT, Tel: 020 7713 8368

12/13 special feature Tuition, Catering and Market Tours OLIVER’S FRESH ORGANIC Fulvia Eccardi PRODUCE CHICZA! NO NO TOXIC A natural solution to ARTIFICIAL TREATMENT COLOURING AFTER HARVEST NO COSMETIC WAX COATING a very sticky problem GROWN WITHOUT GROWN ARTIFICIAL WITHOUT FERTILISERS It takes 17 weeks for chewing gum to be removed from the entire length of CHEMICAL PESTICIDES Oxford Street, yet in just 10 days the sticky stuff is bothering the soles of all who dare to tread there once again. But now, a rainforest community could transform our pavements forever, with the invention of the world’s first fully NO WONDER OLIVER’S ORGANICALLY GROWN biodegradable chewing gum. Jennifer Gaskin explores… FRUIT AND VEGETABLES ARE SO MUCH BETTER FOR YOU AND YOUR FAMILY While huge swathes of other Around 2,000 chicleros organised The finished gum, available from for more Oliver’s fruit and vegetables are good enough to eat! rainforests have been devastated themselves into 56 co-operatives Mexican restaurant chain Wahaca :HDOVRVWRFNRUJDQLFPHDWÀVKZLQHVHJJVFKRFRODWHDQG by some human activity, the Gran called the Consorcio Chiclero and, and branches of Waitrose in mint, information visit: wide range of organic foods, raw foods as well as natural Petén in south-east Mexico has together with their families, they spearmint and lime, is 100% www.chicza.com remedies and bodycare. actually been safeguarded by the manage the production, logistics biodegradable and certified KEW VILLAGE Mayan community, who have and finance for the chewing organic. Within six weeks of being &RRNLQJ&ODVVHV‡([TXLVLWH&DWHULQJ 5 STATION APPROACH called it home for over a century. gum, called Chicza. And, by disposed of, it either dissolves KEW GARDENS Traditionally, the men in this area of transforming chicle into a finished harmlessly into water or is Guided Market Tours & Meet the Producer RICHMOND, TW9 3QB forest are chicleros (gum farmers) product of its own, the farmers are absorbed into the soil. 0208 948 3990 who make a living by scaling the earning six times more than they Tailor Made Cooking Lessons for small groups oliverswholefoods.co.uk 33-metre-tall chicozapote trees and previously could. extracting the sap. Next to Kew Gardens Tube Station Each co-operative manages its Manuel Aldrete, Managing www.sarahmoore.co.uk For more than 100 years the own section of the 1.3 million Director of Chicza says; chicleros have been selling the hectare area of forest used “Our farmers believe that sap (chicle), to chewing gum to produce Chicza. Once a UK customers will understand manufacturers around the globe. chicozapote is tapped, the and appreciate what they have However, when the major sap flows down the bark and is brands started to opt for collected in a bag at the base. The created and will want to makingmaking local food wwork:ork: non-biodegradable petrochemicals tree is then allowed to rest for six to support this unique rainforest instead of chicle, the farmer’s seven years before being harvested product, by buying it.” communitycommunity enterpriseenterprise income begin to wane. So, five again. This careful process has years ago, they united to create a been observed since the days aandnd thethe futurefuture ofof foodfood brand-new chewing gum that was of the Mayan Empire and is now 100% biodegradable and based certified by the Forest Stewardship on their own sustainable farming Council. After collection, the sap is Wednesday 30th September, practices. boiled and blended with organic Marriott City Centre Hotel, Bristol. 10am - 4pm. sweeteners and natural forest flavours before being shaped into squares. The second Making Local Food WWorkork conferencenference will examineexamin the keykey role that ffood-basedood-based commcommunityuunity enterpriseserprises can play in shapingg a sustainable, equitable food system for Britain in the future.

SpeakersSpeakers includeinclude:: BarBarnyny HauHaughton,ghton, CheChef-Proprietorf-Propprietorietor of Bordeaux QuaQuayy RestaurantRestaurant;; ProfessoProfessorr KevinK Morgan, Professor ooff GoGovernancevernance and DevelDevelopmentoopment at Cardiff University; Dr To TTomom MacMillan, DirectoDirectoror ooff the Food Ethics CouncilCouncil;; TimTim CrabtreeCrabtree,, Director of L Localocal Food Links

TicketsTickets £40 + VVAT.VAAATT. TToo book a place,placce, pleaseplease downloaddownload a formform from:from: wwwwww.makinglocalfoodwork.co.uk/conference.makinglocalfoodwork.co.uk/cconference or tetelephone:lephone: 01993 814 385

For more information about Making Local Food Work www.makinglocalfoodwork.co.uk

14 / 15 A taste of London

FOR THE FILLING 1kg finely diced beef chuck 2 large onions, finely diced 2 tbsp plain flour pie & 1 tsp English mustard powder 4 flat mushrooms, finely chopped 1 bayleaf 2 sprigs of thyme 2 tsp Worcestershire sauce mash 300ml brown ale FOR THE PARSLEY LIQUOR 25g butter 25g plain flour 300ml chicken stock 1 bunch of flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped 1 tsp malt vinegar

WHERE TO SHOP while you probably know where to get most of these ingredients we thought we’d give you a few ideas for some of them

Meat // Beatbush Organic Farm (www.beatbushorganicfarm.co.uk/) sell at London Farmers Market, organic butchers such as Sheepdrove, Maida Vale (www.sheepdrove.com/)

Plasschaert: www.magicmarbles.co.uk Flour // Doves Organic(www.dove farm.co.uk/), Shipton Mill Flour (www.shiptonmill.com/) Bacheldre Watermill (www.bacheldremill .co.uk/), Pie & Mash has been enjoyed in London since the 18th or for London’s local flour – G.R. Wrights (www.wrightsflour.co.uk/) century. The crowded and dingy slums of the Georgian East End, gave available through the better SPONSORED BY supermarkets or grocers. birth to this most epic of comfort foods as hungry Cockneys demanded Chicken stock // Kallo Organic or ISSUE 24 Marigold Organic stock available SUMMER 2009 something cheap and filling. Shops kept their prices low by using the FREE through the better supermarkets ethical publishing, cheapest, often dubious cuts of meat and offered the tasty fare at a or grocers. price lower than the cost of cooking it at home. By Gaby De Sena Brown Ale // St Peters organic ale or event, marketing and a bitter such as Surrey’s Hogsback TEA (traditional English Ale). Also see p8 for ideas. EAST END PIE AND MASH Remove from the pan and place on and make a whole in the top FREE LONDON design services. FAIRTRADE Recipe from cooksforcooks.com absorbent paper while you cook to allow steam to escape. Bake Potatoes // Arron Victory, Desiree, the onions in the same pan. Add in the oven at 170 degrees for Kerrs Pink, King Edward,Lady & Innovative, dynamic and ethical marketing to the meat back to the pan with the Maris Piper all good for mashing. GUIDE Traditionally served with liquor, a 30-40 minutes until the pie businesses and organisations across the UK. onions and the mushrooms, cook is golden brown. green parsley sauce made with the Find unusual potatoes at the Duke 2009 for a few minutes then add the water left over from stewing , of York Square food market brown ale to deglaze the pan. Add London goes Marketing and PR Services including: the dish is still popular today. But TO MAKE THE LIQUOR www.partridges.co.uk/foodmarket THE ULTIMATE the bay leaf and thyme. Add the GUIDE TO Web Design // Brochure Design // Branding and Logos with our growing interest in real Melt the butter in a pan and add the FAIRTRADE Worcestershire sauce and the Pastry // Either make from scratch or veggie for IN LONDON flour, stir for 1 minute and slowly add food, how ethical could today’s Pie buy pastry ready made, particularly tomato puree. Add a splash of the chicken stock. Add more as the Customised Publications and Magazines and Mash be? Try the recipe below with the puff pastry! Dorset Organic stock, if needed, to loosen the mix. sauce starts to thicken – don’t stop a week From concept stage through to distribution to find out…. Pastry – see www.dorsetpastry.com/ stirring or you’ll end up with a lumpy for a list of vendors. 10 YEARS of farmers’ Event Management Services Method After cooking on a low heat for up mess. Add the parsley and the markets in London Line the base of the pie tin/tins with to 2 hours, let the filling cool (this vinegar, season with salt and ground Most of the meat, veg and dairy C APITAL shortcrust pastry and leave in the step is not essential but really black pepper. Blitz in a liquidiser and will be available at a local farmers’ THE WORLD ’S LARGEST FA IRTRADE CITY market (www.lfm.org.uk) or * LONDON’S LOCAL PRODUCERS fridge to rest. improves the flavour). Take the pour into a gravy boat. * REAL BREAD CAMPAIGN filling and fill your pastry case to the through a box scheme BOTANICAL RESTAURANT SAF Sponsored by for more information about (www.sustainweb.org/london In a heavy based casserole dish, top. Cut out a square of puff pastry Serve together foodlink/box_schemes/). Hand Up Media and our work dust the chuck, the onions and to make a lid for the pie. Using a with mashed Hand Up Media are proud to produce The Jellied Eel add the beef in the flour and little water ensure the edges are potato and magazine in association with London Food Link. visit: www.handupmedia.co.uk mustard powder and brown off in all stuck down and crimp the edges ENJOY! 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil. with a fork, brush with egg wash 16 / 17 Why is it so hard to find In Farm Collective, Craig and shop window something decent to eat Dominic have succeeded in on your lunch break? That’s finding a way to bring great quality ingredients, bought from good what partners Craig Willis suppliers to the capital and turn it and Dominic Kamara asked into fantastic fast food for themselves before setting city workers badly in need of an The Farm up Farm Collective – a great alternative to the ubiquitous, little place serving fantastic, pre-packaged and uninspiring carefully sourced food to sarnie. The pair insist on forging Farringdon and beyond. very close relationships with suppliers and aim to visit every Jamie Ford found out more… Collective farm they deal with. They keep the prices competitive by only using Food straight from the farm, slap It’s Friday lunchtime and Farm fresh produce that’s in season; bang in the middle of the city Collective, the small but perfectly the menu is always changing formed eaterie in EC1, is buzzing. depending on what the farmers There’s a queue coming out the have to offer. door and the guys and girls behind the tills are busy serving the TOP BUYS... punters with great looking salads, , pies and fish cakes. In the middle of the action is Craig Seasonal Salad pots including beetroot, spring onion and Reader’s (one half of the partnership behind balsamic glaze and classic this new fast food concept), waldorf with shavings of chatting to his customers about unpasteurised, mature cheddar forthcoming menu items while restocking the shelves with fresh Brand new, freshly made juices Kitchen Dartmouth Smokehouse haddock using seasonal fruit and and new potato salad. I manage to vegetables coming soon grab his attention for a minute. In response to my comment on how Mr Stern’s haddock busy the place was he replies, and mustard pie “How Green ‘I know! It’s great, isn’t it? It seems to get busier every week.’ I believe Seasonal tarts made 91 Cowcross Street, EC1M 6BH him, and I’m pretty sure it will get fresh daily www.farmcollective.com busier still. is Yours?”

Johanna is, in her own words, an On the counter is Johanna’s HIGH SCORES FOR... In our new feature, ethical shopper who has tried bread maker as she is a fan of CARE ENOUGH Jellied Eel reader to make shopping decisions real bread and has a whole shelf in a meat-free kitchen, high that reflect this. On arriving in her kitchen dedicated to various levels of organic and fair Johanna Wallther, Johanna’s kitchen I am struck by flours and baking ingredients, most trade products, home-grown TO FOSTER? cupboards and a fridge full of food of which are organic and, in the vegetables, no bottled water a single young dominated by dry ingredients and case of the sugar, is Fairtrade. or excess packaging, and professional living fresh vegetables. Johanna tells Johanna tells me that she also has kitchen waste is composted. Can you offer me that she eats a largely a loaf of sliced Hovis in the freezer DEDUCTIONS... Advertise in London's in Haringey, North vegetarian diet and, as a rule, for emergency mornings when the experience London, bravely put cooks all food from scratch due she hasn’t been organised enough Purchased fruit and veg could to a love of cooking and also to to bake! be more seasonal, and a bag leading ethical food of a family to her kitchen forward save money. Leftovers from dinner of frozen fish in the freezer was always transfer to lunch the next In the fridge are organic eggs, from a non-sustainable source. and drinks magazine! a vulnerable for a grilling. Polly day. She shows me large jars of milk and cheese bought from Higginson, went out nuts, lentils and pulses and a giant the supermarket and a colourful SUMMARY... young person? drum of organic olive oil all of which selection of fruit and vegetables to test how green her were bought from an organic plus a bowl of green salad In summary, a green kitchen Reach 80,000 readers wholesaler and split with friends to leaves that have been grown in with lots of careful planning to kitchen was…. save on costs. Johanna’s garden. (She later takes save money and time and not 60 London stockists in Interested? me outside and is proud to compromise on ethics. Johanna, Contact Victoria There are also recycled jam jars full reveal French beans, beetroot, a The Jellied Eel is inspired! and around London of different loose herbs, spices and courgette plant in flower and tea that she bought loose from containers full of salad leaves, the Haelan Centre in Crouch End to the rewards of the decision to make Grade: A- reduce packaging. her overgrown garden in to a productive space). NEXT ISSUE Polly Higginson DEC 2009

For media pack email: Johanna gets a free goody bag from the splendid ladies at Happy Kitchen as a thank [email protected] 01254 777 460 / 07501 724 356 you for letting us through her door. If you would like us to consider your kitchen for our microscope, and win some edible goodies, please contact [email protected]. email: [email protected] 18 / 19 ¡

FILL IN OUR MEMBERSHIP FORM Name L0VE the Eel? Address and have a copy Join London Food Link delivered to your door every quarter, and Postcode Borough become part of London’s growing local Tel and sustainable food movement. Email Please write a brief summary of who you are/ your interest in local food The Jellied Eel is a free publication created by London Food Link to raise awareness on local food issues in London and to promote people and projects that are working to improve things. London Food Link is a charity that runs a membership network of those that share this vision. MEMBER BENEFITS INCLUDE: delivered to your > A free copy of the Jellied Eel door every quarter. which RATES > Membership of the London Food Link e-forum Jellied Eel individual membership £20 (tick box) gives regular information on local food news, funding If the fee is not, for whatever reason, a fair reflection of your ability information, jobs, events and more. to to pay membership then please get in touch. Please make cheques payable to Sustain: the alliance for better food and farming. > An invitation to our twice yearly Network Do’s celebrate the work of London Food Link and its members. If you are a community project, food business or local authority on entrance to then contact [email protected] for more information on > A discounted rate and special offers how you can be involved with London Food Link. selected food events happening in London. ,

TO JOIN fill in the membership form and send it to London Food Link c/o Sustain, 94 White Lion Street, London N1 9PF or call 0207 837 1228. Join us! visit us online at:www.londonfoodlink.org

Our Member Feature

A Closer Look at London For the future the Urban Wine Food Link Member The Company plans to expand and Urban Wine Company connect with more projects, gardens and neglected grapes The Urban Wine Company was across the city. London Food Link born two years ago with the popping are working to help find more sites of the cork from the first bottle of for the project and have helped “Chateau Tooting - Furzedown them to successfully secure a Blush” which was produced from larger site for a vineyard at grapes growing in founding member Surrey Docks Farm. Richard Sharp’s neighbours back garden. Since Richard and his team If you would like to find out how have been working at a whirlwind you can be involved with the pace to share their passion for work of the Urban Wine company wine produced locally and also as a grower, grape donator or building a sense of community volunteer the please visit around its creation. www.urbanwineco.com

WIN YOUR OWN VINE!!! We have a free urban wine company vine to give- away to a lucky new member of London Food Link That signs up for membership this quarter. 20/21 elo deal on all ambient products. MONEYM OFF TeamContact our CustomerCo Services for details of our PROMOTION P AMBIENTAMBI [email protected], TEL: 020 8297 9966 CATERER nta e-mail sales@juniperfinefoods.co.uk e-mail sales@juniperfinef TelephoneT Te 0044 (0)1387 249333 or R BEST TRAITEUR torCusto our ct elep ON OMO nal ho ne 0044 l e S mer am E er ( b vices 0 ) Y ient 1387 2 E T Te T a f eam fo ood O p fo N NT I ION 4 o ds.co r eal four of details r 9333 o oducts. FF .uk r

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Fo D ( umf 0 ) 1387 oo fr r .uk ies, od , 2 D 49900 G 1 3 s R S DIARY S 5th - 6th - Good Food Festival - www.goodfoodfestival.org

5th - otyu w rai inrpry(see page 13) Host your own organic dinner party or get involved with local events. www.soilassociation.org

6th - A country style fair to promote the work of the allotments and their produce. www.skgas.org.uk/index.html

1 Buy food there or bring your own food for a sit down lunch at a table covering half the bridge Other activities include butter making, mayonnaise making from fresh local eggs and the most sustainable meatballs in London! Look out for the Capital Grub stall cooking up (and selling) produce from Capital Growth spaces. www.thamesfesitval.org

1 Showcasing the work of community garden and city farm projects across London. This event is one for all the family with activities for children. www.farmgarden.org.uk

1 See p4 or visit www.lovebritishfood.co.uk for a list of events 2 happening across London celebrating the best in British Food.

20 An urban green fair which includes an area dedicated to local food and food growing. www.theurbangreenfair.org

2 9 Beginning with a foraging course on Hampstead Heath and other local food activities. www.transitionbelsize.org.uk 2 www.colnevalleypark.org.uk 9 O 8th - - London www.organicconferences.co.uk

1 www.elog.org.uk/apple.htm

1 Events across the borough include a family day at Kentish Town City farm, and a Seed Swap at Somers town Community Cafe. [email protected]

NOV 1 An inspiring evening celebrating the work of London Food Link and its members (to find out more about London Food Link and the network then turn to page 21. [email protected] 0

7th - 8th - www.naturewise.org.uk 0

11th An exhibition of food drawings from world famous illustrator Axel Schleffer. www.handmadefood.com/gallery

TB An evening celebrating food reared, grown, foraged and prepared on 0 MudchuteFarm. This evening will be held once a month. See the website for dates www.mudchutekithcen.org.

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The Jellied Eel wish them every success! every them wish Eel Jellied The

one of our most dedicated stockists, we at we stockists, dedicated most our of one

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Islington, London N1 4QY N1 London Islington,

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FEATURE STOCKIST STOCKIST in circulation 20

The Jellied Eel is extremely grateful for the support of their in and around London.

Our stockists are selected as they are

, working hard to improve the sustainability of the capital’s food. To locate your nearest Jellied Eel stockist then visit:

000 www.sustainweb.org/londonfoodlink/ pick_up_the_jellied_eel If you would like to stock The Jellied Eel or know of a local shop, café or restaurant that is linked to our work then let us know at:

60 stockists copies

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