Elenco Libri Per Sito Cai 2003
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Mountaineering War and Peace at High Altitudes
Mountaineering War and Peace at High Altitudes 2–5 Sackville Street Piccadilly London W1S 3DP +44 (0)20 7439 6151 [email protected] https://sotherans.co.uk Mountaineering 1. ABBOT, Philip Stanley. Addresses at a Memorial Meeting of the Appalachian Mountain Club, October 21, 1896, and other 2. ALPINE SLIDES. A Collection of 72 Black and White Alpine papers. Reprinted from “Appalachia”, [Boston, Mass.], n.d. [1896]. £98 Slides. 1894 - 1901. £750 8vo. Original printed wrappers; pp. [iii], 82; portrait frontispiece, A collection of 72 slides 80 x 80mm, showing Alpine scenes. A 10 other plates; spine with wear, wrappers toned, a good copy. couple with cracks otherwise generally in very good condition. First edition. This is a memorial volume for Abbot, who died on 44 of the slides have no captioning. The remaining are variously Mount Lefroy in August 1896. The booklet prints Charles E. Fay’s captioned with initials, “CY”, “EY”, “LSY” AND “RY”. account of Abbot’s final climb, a biographical note about Abbot Places mentioned include Morteratsch Glacier, Gussfeldt Saddle, by George Herbert Palmer, and then reprints three of Abbot’s Mourain Roseg, Pers Ice Falls, Pontresina. Other comments articles (‘The First Ascent of Mount Hector’, ‘An Ascent of the include “Big lunch party”, “Swiss Glacier Scene No. 10” Weisshorn’, and ‘Three Days on the Zinal Grat’). additionally captioned by hand “Caution needed”. Not in the Alpine Club Library Catalogue 1982, Neate or Perret. The remaining slides show climbing parties in the Alps, including images of lady climbers. A fascinating, thus far unattributed, collection of Alpine climbing. -
Firestarters Summits of Desire Visionaries & Vandals
31465_Cover 12/2/02 9:59 am Page 2 ISSUE 25 - SPRING 2002 £2.50 Firestarters Choosing a Stove Summits of Desire International Year of Mountains FESTIVAL OF CLIMBING Visionaries & Vandals SKI-MOUNTAINEERING Grit Under Attack GUIDEBOOKS - THE FUTURE TUPLILAK • LEADERSHIP • METALLIC EQUIPMENT • NUTRITION FOREWORD... NEW SUMMITS s the new BMC Chief Officer, writing my first ever Summit Aforeword has been a strangely traumatic experience. After 5 years as BMC Access Officer - suddenly my head is on the block. Do I set out my vision for the future of the BMC or comment on the changing face of British climbing? Do I talk about the threats to the cliff and mountain envi- ronment and the challenges of new access legislation? How about the lessons learnt from foot and mouth disease or September 11th and the recent four fold hike in climbing wall insurance premiums? Big issues I’m sure you’ll agree - but for this edition I going to keep it simple and say a few words about the single most important thing which makes the BMC tick - volunteer involvement. Dave Turnbull - The new BMC Chief Officer Since its establishment in 1944 the BMC has relied heavily on volunteers and today the skills, experience and enthusi- District meetings spearheaded by John Horscroft and team asm that the many 100s of volunteers contribute to climb- are pointing the way forward on this front. These have turned ing and hill walking in the UK is immense. For years, stal- into real social occasions with lively debates on everything warts in the BMC’s guidebook team has churned out quality from bolts to birds, with attendances of up to 60 people guidebooks such as Chatsworth and On Peak Rock and the and lively slideshows to round off the evenings - long may BMC is firmly committed to getting this important Commit- they continue. -
CC J Inners 168Pp.Indd
theclimbers’club Journal 2011 theclimbers’club Journal 2011 Contents ALPS AND THE HIMALAYA THE HOME FRONT Shelter from the Storm. By Dick Turnbull P.10 A Midwinter Night’s Dream. By Geoff Bennett P.90 Pensioner’s Alpine Holiday. By Colin Beechey P.16 Further Certifi cation. By Nick Hinchliffe P.96 Himalayan Extreme for Beginners. By Dave Turnbull P.23 Welsh Fix. By Sarah Clough P.100 No Blends! By Dick Isherwood P.28 One Flew Over the Bilberry Ledge. By Martin Whitaker P.105 Whatever Happened to? By Nick Bullock P.108 A Winter Day at Harrison’s. By Steve Dean P.112 PEOPLE Climbing with Brasher. By George Band P.36 FAR HORIZONS The Dragon of Carnmore. By Dave Atkinson P.42 Climbing With Strangers. By Brian Wilkinson P.48 Trekking in the Simien Mountains. By Rya Tibawi P.120 Climbing Infl uences and Characters. By James McHaffi e P.53 Spitkoppe - an Old Climber’s Dream. By Ian Howell P.128 Joe Brown at Eighty. By John Cleare P.60 Madagascar - an African Yosemite. By Pete O’Donovan P.134 Rock Climbing around St Catherine’s Monastery in the Sinai Desert. By Malcolm Phelps P.142 FIRST ASCENTS Summer Shale in Cornwall. By Mick Fowler P.68 OBITUARIES A Desert Nirvana. By Paul Ross P.74 The First Ascent of Vector. By Claude Davies P.78 George Band OBE. 1929 - 2011 P.150 Three Rescues and a Late Dinner. By Tony Moulam P.82 Alan Blackshaw OBE. 1933 - 2011 P.154 Ben Wintringham. 1947 - 2011 P.158 Chris Astill. -
Les Clochers D'arpette
31 Les Clochers d’Arpette Portrait : large épaule rocheuse, ou tout du moins rocailleuse, de 2814 m à son point culminant. On trouve plusieurs points cotés sur la carte nationale, dont certains sont plus significatifs que d’autres. Quelqu’un a fixé une grande branche à l’avant-sommet est. Nom : en référence aux nombreux gendarmes rocheux recouvrant la montagne sur le Val d’Arpette et faisant penser à des clochers. Le nom provient surtout de deux grosses tours très lisses à 2500 m environ dans le versant sud-est (celui du Val d’Arpette). Dangers : fortes pentes, chutes de pierres et rochers à « varapper » Région : VS (massif du Mont Blanc), district d’Entremont, commune d’Orsières, Combe de Barmay et Val d’Arpette Accès : Martigny Martigny-Combe Les Valettes Champex Arpette Géologie : granites du massif cristallin externe du Mont Blanc Difficulté : il existe plusieurs itinéraires possibles, partant aussi bien d’Arpette que du versant opposé, mais il s’agit à chaque fois d’itinéraires fastidieux et demandant un pied sûr. La voie la plus courte et relativement pas compliquée consiste à remonter les pentes d’éboulis du versant sud-sud-ouest et ensuite de suivre l’arête sud-ouest exposée (cotation officielle : entre F et PD). Histoire : montagne parcourue depuis longtemps, sans doute par des chasseurs. L’arête est fut ouverte officiellement par Paul Beaumont et les guides François Fournier et Joseph Fournier le 04.09.1891. Le versant nord fut descendu à ski par Cédric Arnold et Christophe Darbellay le 13.01.1993. Spécificité : montagne sauvage, bien visible de la région de Fully et de ses environs, et donc offrant un beau panorama sur le district de Martigny, entre autres… 52 32 L’Aiguille d’Orny Portrait : aiguille rocheuse de 3150 m d’altitude, dotée d’aucun symbole, mais équipée d’un relais d’escalade. -
ASIAN ALPINE E-NEWS Issue No 75. September 2020
ASIAN ALPINE E-NEWS Issue No 75. September 2020 C CONTENTS All-Afghan Team with two Women Climb Nation's Highest Peak Noshakh 7492m of Afghanistan Page 2 ~ 6 Himalayan Club E-Letter vol. 40 Page 7 ~ 43 1 All-Afghan Team, with 2 Women Climb Nation's Highest – Peak Noshakh 7492m The team members said they did their exercises for the trip in Panjshir, Salang and other places for one month ahead of their journey. Related News • Female 30K Cycling Race Starts in Afghanistan • Afghan Female Cyclist in France Prepares for Olympics Fatima Sultani, an 18-year-old Afghan woman, spoke to TOLOnews and said she and companions reached the summit of Noshakh in the Hindu Kush mountains, which is the highest peak in Afghanistan at 7,492 meters. 1 The group claims to be the first all-Afghan team to reach the summit. Fatima was joined by eight other mountaineers, including two girls and six men, on the 17-day journey. They began the challenging trip almost a month ago from Kabul. Noshakh is located in the Wakhan corridor in the northeastern province of Badakhshan. “Mountaineering is a strong sport, but we can conquer the summit if we are provided the gear,” Sultani said.The team members said they did their exercises for the trip in Panjshir, Salang and other places for one month ahead of their journey. “We made a plan with our friends to conquer Noshakh summit without foreign support as the first Afghan team,” said Ali Akbar Sakhi, head of the team. The mountaineers said their trip posed challenge but they overcame them. -
The Mountaineering Experience: Determining the Critical Factors and Assessing Management Practices
University of Calgary PRISM: University of Calgary's Digital Repository Graduate Studies The Vault: Electronic Theses and Dissertations 2014-09-16 The Mountaineering Experience: Determining the Critical Factors and Assessing Management Practices Benjamin, Mary Wilder Benjamin, M. W. (2014). The Mountaineering Experience: Determining the Critical Factors and Assessing Management Practices (Unpublished master's thesis). University of Calgary, Calgary, AB. doi:10.11575/PRISM/28251 http://hdl.handle.net/11023/1767 master thesis University of Calgary graduate students retain copyright ownership and moral rights for their thesis. You may use this material in any way that is permitted by the Copyright Act or through licensing that has been assigned to the document. For uses that are not allowable under copyright legislation or licensing, you are required to seek permission. Downloaded from PRISM: https://prism.ucalgary.ca UNIVERSITY OF CALGARY The Mountaineering Experience: Determining the Critical Factors and Assessing Management Practices by Mary Wilder Benjamin A THESIS SUBMITTED TO THE FACULTY OF GRADUATE STUDIES IN PARTIAL FULFILMENT OF THE REQUIREMENTS FOR THE DEGREE OF MASTER OF ENVIRONMENTAL DESIGN FACULTY OF ENVIRONMENTAL DESIGN CALGARY, ALBERTA SEPTEMBER, 2014 © Mary Wilder Benjamin 2014 Abstract Recreational mountaineering is a complex pursuit that continues to evolve with respect to demographics, participant numbers, methods, equipment, and the nature of the experience sought. The activity often occurs in protected areas where agency managers are charged with the inherently conflicting mandate of protecting the natural environment and facilitating high quality recreational experiences. Effective management of such mountaineering environs is predicated on meaningful understanding of the users’ motivations, expectations and behaviours. -
In Memoriam 1981
In Memoriam Introduction Geoffrey Templeman Since the last Journal was published, 9 of our members have died, the list being as follows: Donald Mill; Marjorie Garrod; Charles John Morris; Mark Pasteur; Reginald Mountain; Thomas MacKinnon; Arnold Pines; Richard Grant and Archibald Scott. It also appears that no mention was made in the Journal of the death ofour distinguished Honorary Member Henry de Segogne in 1979:-ifanyone would like to write a tribute, I will be very pleased to print it next year. My request for any further tributes for Lucien Devies last year was promptly answered and they are included here. Also included from previous years are full obituaries of Sir Percy Wyn Harris, Dr John Lewis and Nicolas Jaeger, whilst mention should also be made here of the recent death of Sir Michael Postan, a former member of the club. I would once again like to express my sincere thanks to all who have helped in producing the tributes that follow-without their help, the Journal would be the poorer. It has not been possible to obtain obituaries for one or two members and my own short notes must suffice for the following. Reginald WilIiam Mountain, who joined the club in 1941, died last year at the age of 81. His application for membership shows that he started climbing in the Alps in 1924 and completed a number of standard courses in the Bernese Oberland and Mont Blanc region, mostly with guides. ArchibaldJames Scott died in October, 1981, aged 79, having been a member of the club for 46 years. -
Chasing Waterfalls Katy Dartford Enrols on an Ice Climbing Course with Jagged Globe and Discovers a Whole New World of Barn-Dooring, Chicken Wings and ‘Cascatiti’
MountainSkills Getting to grips with the steeper sections of TRAINING DAYS pitch one of Cascade Lillaz Chasing waterfalls Katy Dartford enrols on an ice climbing course with Jagged Globe and discovers a whole new world of barn-dooring, chicken wings and ‘cascatiti’... WORDS AND PICTURES KATY DARTFORD lackened toenails, hot aches, cold, paths into the Lillaz Valley, Andy explained that clients to one instructor), we were climbing hungry, and scared…. still, “the best “the Italian for ice climbing is actually ‘ice straight away, with important knowledge such way to burn calories is being cold and fallers’ or ‘cascatiti’”. Ominous, I thought. He as safety on ice, avalanche awareness, placing B scared,” says our ever-positive pointed out the different ice formations on the ice protection, organisation belays, rope instructor, Andy Owen. cascades we passed; the chandelier type is techniques, abseiling and steep ice techniques I’m in Cogne, Italy for a long weekend of ice known as Jellyfish or Medusa by the Italians. woven into the discussion as we climbed. climbing and have been suffering with the hot After about a 30-minute gentle uphill walk-in, We weren’t leading yet but Andy explained aches as the blood rushes back into my we reached the third pitch of the Cascade that to stop ice shattering we should avoid freezing fingers. The ripples of pain came as I Lillaz, which has several routes on it at Water putting ice screws in too close together and to finally managed to let go of the axes (as best I Ice grade 3 – perfect for beginners to practise use special extenders called ‘screamers’. -
The Modernisation of Elite British Mountaineering
The Modernisation of Elite British Mountaineering: Entrepreneurship, Commercialisation and the Career Climber, 1953-2000 Thomas P. Barcham Thesis submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements of De Montfort University for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy Submission date: March 2018 Contents Abstract ................................................................................................................................................... 4 Acknowledgments ................................................................................................................................... 5 Table of Abbreviations and Acronyms .................................................................................................... 6 Table of Figures ....................................................................................................................................... 7 Chapter 1. Introduction .......................................................................................................................... 8 Literature Review ............................................................................................................................ 14 Definitions, Methodology and Structure ........................................................................................ 29 Chapter 2. 1953 to 1969 - Breaking a New Trail: The Early Search for Earnings in a Fast Changing Pursuit .................................................................................................................................................. -
L'affaire Frêney
ERIC VOLA L’affaire Frêney A Long-overdue Acknowledgement ugust 29 1961: the ‘Last Great Problem of the Alps’, The Central APillar of Frêney, is solved by Chris Bonington, Ian Clough, Jan Djuglosz and Don Whillans. But in French eyes the honours go also to René Desmaison, Pierre Julien, Yves Pollet-Villard and Ignacio Piussi. Desmaison seemed unable to accept the facts of the respective Pillar ascents and set about denigrating the British achievement while inflating his own – a fiction in which he was supported by the all-powerful Lucien Devies, the veritable godfather of post-war French mountaineering. Only now, half a century after the landmark climb, has the record been put straight in the French mountaineering press. 176. Southern flank of Mont Blanc showing Frêney pillars (centre). (Chris Bonington Picture Library) I became aware of Desmaison’s claim to have at least shared the first ascent on reading a recent biography of him by Antoine Chandellier, a journalist on Le Dauphiné Libéré, a regional newspaper in the French Alps. Entitled La Montagne en direct – La vie de René Desmaison (Guerin 2010), the book gives René’s version of the celebrated climb. In it Chandellier refers to Chris and Don as ‘an employee of a tinned food manufacturer and a plumber and zinc worker’, implying that no integrity could be expected of 247 248 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n A l 2 0 1 2 F r ê n e y p i l l A r 249 such characters. -
SUMMIT 35.Pdf
46984_COVER 9/9/04 9:57 AM Page 1 UK £2.50 Autumn 2004 www.thebmc.co.uk Big Issues Bonington Interview Extreme Technology Alpine Detox Trad Leading CRoW Act contentsCONTENTS features 14: Big Issues What's the state of British climbing? A look at the challenges facing us, and predictions for the future. 24: Remote Control Gary Rolfe's getting all cold again. This time looking at technology in the wilds. 28: The Evergreen Years Chris Bonington is 70, but is he really going to take up golf? Terry Adby finds out. 32: Detox Nick Bullock and Jules Cartwright clean up on the Pic Sans Nom. 36: Basics 3: The sharp end Steve Long is your guide to the exciting world of trad leading. 46: The CRoW has landed But what does the introduction of the CRoW Act really mean to you? 50: Heroes of Telemark Chad Staton retraces the historic Saboteurs' route with some very modern help. 52: Schools Out Nick Colton gives an overview of the BMC's Child Protection Policy and how it works in action. regulars 5: The Issue 6: News 10: Access News 11: Frontline 42: Accident & Emergency 45: Events 49: Winter Lectures 62/54: Last Thoughts special offers 12: Stuff It's your lucky day - we've got another four more competitions for you to enter. Win books, rock boots, stoves and more... 35 3 46984_p03-07.indd 3 09/09/2004 11:18:59 35 foreword WELCOME TO ISSUE 35 Summit is the membership magazine of the British Mountaineering Council. The BMC promotes the interests of climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers and the freedom to enjoy their activities. -
Di Roccia, Di Ghiaccio, Di Vento, Di Luce: Etnografia Dei Paesaggi Verticali
Corso di Laurea magistrale (ordinamento ex D.M. 270/2004) in: Antropologia culturale, etnologia, etnolinguistica Tesi di Laurea Di roccia, di ghiaccio, di vento, di luce: etnografia dei paesaggi verticali. Pratiche del rischio nell‟alpinismo. Relatore Correlatori Ch. Prof. Gianluca Ligi Ch. Prof. Francesco Vallerani Ch. Prof. Antonio Paolillo Laureando Lucia Montefiori Matricola 834152 Anno Accademico 2011 / 2012 2 A Chiara e Irene: sorelle non per nascita, ma per scelta. 3 4 INDICE INTRODUZIONE 11 L’ALPINISMO È... 11 L’ESPERIENZA DI RICERCA 12 INSEGNANTI, MENTORI ED INTERLOCUTORI 26 TEMI E STRUTTURA DELLA RICERCA 28 1 – ELEMENTI DI STORIA DELL’ARRAMPICATA 39 1.1 – NASCITA DELL’ALPINISMO: IL MODO NUOVO DI SALIRE LE MONTAGNE 39 1.2 – LA STAGIONE DEGLI EROI. L’EPICA DELL’ALPINISMO 44 1.2.1 – OCCIDENTALISTI E ORIENTALISTI: LE DUE SCUOLE DELLE ALPI 48 1.4 – GLI ULTIMI TRE PROBLEMI DELLE ALPI 50 1.4.1 – IL CERVINO (4478 M) 50 1.4.2 – L‟EIGER (3970 M) 51 1.4.3 – LE GRANDES JORASSES (4208 M) 52 1.5 – NUOVE SFIDE E CRESCITA DELLE DIFFICOLTÀ: DIRETTISSIME, INVERNALI E SOLITARIE. 54 1.6 – LE POLEMICHE SULLA FERRAGLIA. L’ETICA DELL’ALPINISMO 57 1.7 – TERRITORÎ NUOVI: HIMALAYA E KARAKORUM, ANDE, MONTAGNE ROCCIOSE 60 1.8 – YOSEMITE: LA STAGIONE HIPPIE DELL’ARRAMPICATA 63 1.9 – ANNI ’80 E ’90: LA NASCITA DELL’ARRAMPICATA SPORTIVA E LA RIBALTA DELLO SPIT 66 1.10 – SPAZÎ ED ETICHE DEL NUOVO MILLENNIO: BOULDERING, BUILDERING, FREESOLO, DEEPWATERSOLO, FREEBASE, VELOCISTI. 69 2 – L’ALPINISMO COME COMMENTO E CRITICA SOCIALE 73 2.1 – ACCENNI DI STORIA DEL PENSIERO ALPINISTICO 74 2.2 – CONVERSANDO CON GLI ALPINISTI 82 2.3 – I PERCHÉ DELL’ALPINISMO 89 5 3 – PAESAGGI VERTICALI: L’IMMENSO E LA PAURA 93 3.1 – TIPI DI PARETE E CONFORMAZIONI 94 3.2 – ARRAMPICATA E ALPINISMO 110 3.3 – NOTE DI GEOMORFOLOGIA 113 3.4 – CAMMINO, QUINDI ARRAMPICO 129 3.4.1 – PRESE E APPOGGI 132 3.4.2 – TECNICHE DI PROGRESSIONE 136 3.4.3 – SLACKLINING E ROPEJUMPING 141 3.5 – LANDSCAPE E TASKSCAPE 143 3.6 – MAPPE: DISTANZE, TEMPO E DISLIVELLI 148 3.7 – LINEE 152 3.8 – L’IMMENSO E LA PAURA 158 4 – ALPINISMO.