2012

2 0 1 2 Neue Living art, cuisine, and culture through the eyes of chef Kurt G utenbrunner London new York Shanghai Vienna

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499 BroAdWAy, soHo, 212 966 3322 WWW.sWArovski-CrystALLized.Com necklace by marmèn, bracelets by Crezus and sWArovski CrystALLizedtm I recently became an American citizen. It was a very significant moment in my life and I am proud to call America home. I moved to the States permanently in 1996 and saw an opportunity to do something really special here. Born in a little town of 2,000 people, way out in the countryside of Austria, there was really no one to push me—so I did it myself. From an early age, I’ve always fought hard for what I believe in. My life would have taken a whole different path if I had stayed in Austria, but I wanted to travel and saw cooking as a way to explore different options. Although I love all kinds of cuisine, when it came down to what I wanted to cook in the U.S., I decided to stay with what my native country had given to me: to introduce to an American audience the elegance behind Austrian and German food. Austria is an old country steeped in tradition, so it was important to me to help people here understand that its food isn’t all about sauerkraut and potatoes. I take a lot of pride in where I came from as well as where I am today.

Art and design are two of my biggest passions. I love the creative process and the beauty of an object, and it makes me happy to fully integrate art and design into my restaurants. I am also a firm believer in simplicity—I think what we do is very straightforward, and we let good ingredients shine. And I strive to do the best job possible for my guests because it is an incredible feeling to please people while doing something you really love.

So willkommen to the first edition of Neue Living. I hope you enjoy learning not only about what we do at our restaurants but also why we do it! Inside

05. MEET 12. DRINK 17. SOCIALIZE The Austrian culinary ambassador. Get to know blaufränkisch. Mix and mingle with KG-NY.

08. ENTERTAIN 14. CHEERS Flowers and food. See Klimt sparkle.

10. GIVE 15. TRAVEL Gifts for all seasons. Eat, drink, and stay in Austria. NEUE LIVING 3 The conversation between chef and diner begins with what’s on the plate

it continues in the palm of your hand

Download HauteLife: Connecting the Epicurean World at your app store today. ©2012 C-BON MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED ©2012 C-BON MEDIA. CHEF KURT GUTENBRUNNER On Art, American Football, and the Eternal Question Mark

Last year, Kurt Gutenbrunner received the Austrian Gold Medal of Honor, one of the country’s highest decorations. “It feels good to be recognized by my country, and I appreciate the honor I received. But in the end, I consider myself a simple chef, nothing more. I feel fortunate to be able to do what I really like. It’s not just a job to me—it’s my life.”

Kurt Gutenbrunner has certainly earned “It’s fundamental to do his kitchen stripes, working at some of the something that you finest establishments in and around Austria, believe in and that Switzerland, and in Germany before makes you happy at the heading to New York’s Windows on the World same time. For me, it is Cellar in the Sky and then Bouley. “I just wanted the fusion of food and to go out and see the world, and it was possible art. I love good food, to do that through cooking.” He ended up in design, art, flowers, Munich for six more years before returning Thonet chairs, and to work with David Bouley in New York as antique mirrors. his culinary director and then taking over as I love to buy my executive chef at the Monkey Bar. fabrics in Vienna, and I love going to About 11 years ago, Kurt stumbled upon what is the museum. And now Wallsé—named after his hometown on the all of these elements Danube—when it was the Black Sheep, an old are in my restaurants. West Village establishment. He hired an Austrian Everything I do has a architect to give it a makeover and decided to connection to art.” showcase German-Austrian food. “I considered doing a different type of fare, but I decided to do what I know best. I really believe that what we have created at Wallsé is modern, interesting, “What I love about the Neue Galerie is its overall and different.” approach to art. It’s more than just pieces on the A year later, he opened Café Sabarsky, a wall—there is a ‘why’ behind it, and that ‘why’ is Viennese café in the Neue Galerie. “I actually what fascinates me. I’m not easy on myself. met cofounder and director Renée I question myself a lot: Why are we doing this? Price before Wallsé opened. It was exciting How are we going to do this? Will we do it right?” to create this different kind of concept in this imported to the United States, wonderful museum.” In 2005, Kurt took over the And art there is—from the works of Julian to make people understand Blaue Gans space and created a casual Austrian Schnabel and Albert Oehlen on the walls of there is more to Austrian wirsthaus, a tribute to sausages. His most recent Wallsé and lighting fixtures and furniture food than what they endeavor, housed in the Swarovski Crystallized designed by Austrian architects Josef Hoffmann may imagine. So it’s store in SoHo, is Café Kristall, designed by a and Adolf Loos in Café Sabarsky to fabrics from exciting to see how young Swiss architect. “I love what Swarovski Backhausen in Café Kristall. “I am surrounded by much progress we has done here, especially with the one-of-a- an enormous amount of excellence!” have made.” And kind, commissioned chandeliers. They are Besides introducing guests to his love of art, the proof is in the wonderful pieces, and I am delighted to have the there is the question of the food, which, certainly pudding—or, in this case, opportunity to work with them.” in the beginning, involved a lot of risk. “I fight the strudel. A lot of his If there is a unifying theme behind his restaurants hard for my beliefs. I am constantly pushing clientele is American, which aside from the food, it is art, Kurt’s other passion. myself. I fought hard to get more Austrian wines Kurt points to as acceptance of >

NEUE LIVING 5

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the cuisine—Michelin-starred cuisine at Wallsé. he says with conviction. “Guests are guests, and “There are only a handful of us doing this and this is what I always reiterate to my team.” doing it right.” The daily mania of a restaurant is too much to Doing it right for Kurt means the whole package. handle for most, but Kurt insists this is what “You can’t do anything if you don’t buy good keeps him sane. “I need people behind me. I ingredients and have good people working need conversations, I need challenges. When for you.” He acknowledges that he can’t do it you work in a restaurant, you never know what 10 Things About alone: “It’s not just me, there are a lot of people to expect on any given night. You might think involved. And when we play well together, the you have it figured out—that you’ve purchased Kurt Gutenbrunner customers are happy. It’s about putting a good everything, that the reservation system is up to team together.” date—but from one second to the next, it can all change. Friends come in and need a last-minute A European football fanatic, Kurt has become an table; suddenly, there is a run on lobster! The 1. He recently became American football convert and highly admires chaos is all very exciting to me.” an American citizen. the Denver Broncos. “I like the strategy of American ball games. I want to be a general And then there’s the question mark about the manager like John Elway, hire a quarterback like future: Is it all enough? “I’m happy with that I 2. He always wears colorful socks. Peyton Manning, and win a Super Bowl! But it’s have, between my restaurants and spending time important to know that you don’t have to win with my children,” he confides, acknowledging every game to get to the Super Bowl. What’s it would be nice to open a place somewhere 3. He is the menu mastermind essential is to learn from your mistakes and make outside of the city one day. In the meantime, behind the Biergarten at the the next night better. Put your waitstaff more on his hands are full, his walls are replete with Standard in both New York and the offense perhaps, or the kitchen staff more on sensational artwork, and his brain is Los Angeles. the defense.” always tuned into the next challenge. He confides that he would love to have been a And there is 4. He is afraid of heights. coach but in some sense knows he already is: “I great beauty have been doing this for 35 years, and if I don’t in that. know what I’m doing by now, I never will. It’s my job 5. He has four children, including to turn around and educate the younger players, a set of twins, and a golden to give them energy and conviction.” Kurt retriever named Winnie. insists on paying culinary students, saddled with school loans, their due. “If people make the effort to 6. Wallsé is named for the learn a profession and pay a lot small town in Austria where of money for that privilege, then I he grew up. need to show them that they are important to me. I’d rather pay my staff more money so they are not up 7. Helmut Lang is his against a wall, so that they can really favorite designer. shine and do the jobs they like to do. One day, my children will be in that position.” 8. His favorite accessory is Kurt strives to motivate his team every day for an Austrian fedora. the right reasons. “I always tell my chefs that if we are happy with what we are doing, we have a good chance to make our customers happy. 9. He loves Thonet chairs, It’s tough in a city with as many restaurants by Michael Thonet. as there are here, so you have to start with a good attitude.” Kurt takes his craft extremely personally. He recognizes the beauty of 10. He can often be found browsing satisfying someone through his food. “The through his large collection of only difference between coming to old cookbooks, some of which my restaurants and eating in my date as far back as the 1800s. house is the transaction of money,”

NEUE LIVING 7 7 A Guide to Winter Entertaining

At the turn of the 20th century, Vienna was considered one of Europe’s leading cultural centers. Wiener Werkstätte was a revolutionary production community of visual artists— architects, artists, and designers—brought together under a common commitment to design art that would be accessible to everyone. In the following pages, we bring together accessible elements of winter entertaining, from recipes and ingredients to floral design and gifts for all occasions, to make your winter festivities a little more elegant with a little less stress.

Festive Flowers Paris-born Yasmine Karrenberg is a Tribeca local and mother of three who has an intense passion for blooms. She has been arranging the flowers at Wallsé for the past ten years and recently launched her own business, Flowers by Yasmine.

How did your interest in flowers blossom? Does art inspire your floral creations? be too big and difficult to work around. I have always loved flowers; it wasn’t anything I am half-German so I grew up with Klimt, Also, I like to work with seasonal colors and I ever went to school for, it was just a passion but I love Monet. A few years ago, I took my flowers, especially since that is what the chef of mine. Growing up just outside of Paris, we three daughter to Monet’s gardens at Giverny, works with ingredient wise, and it’s a good had a garden with a magnificent lilac tree in it, and it just reinforced my love of flowers and synchronization. which was the flower I first fell for. They are so gardens and voluminosity. I wanted to just What are some of your favorite flowers strong and powerful that you need only one to gather it all up in my arms. Monet is magical and foliage for the season? Amaryllis is a fill up the house with its perfume. In France, we and very inspirational. When I was little, every pretty amazing flower by itself that doesn’t were constantly going to the markets, where Easter we went to Holland, where I fell in love need anything to really create a mood: simple, you can pick out your own arrangements at with the tulip and hyacinth fields! Van Gogh’s elegant, and powerful, whether potted or the flower stalls. I always loved doing that, paintings have also influenced my work. singular in a vase. I love white more than and it evolved naturally into bringing flowers What considerations do you give to floral red for the holidays, but I do use red in the to the homes of my friends, who were usually arrangements in a restaurant setting? restaurants as it is festive and brings warmth surprised when I said I had arranged them Practicality and seasonality. You can make to the cold. This time of the year, anemones myself. I started doing the flowers at Wallsé, it pretty for the customers, but depending are just spectacular. I always love roses, and I and it progressed from there. on where you put the flowers—on a hostess love the smell of pine in the home. stand, the tables, or on the bar—they can’t

8 NEUE LIVING Best Foods for Entertaining There are plenty of Austrian and German food traditions that authenticate and add dimension to any winter party spread.

Viennese Finger Sandwiches Stollen

Vienna’s version of fast food, these elegant open-face This traditional German bread-like fruitcake, usually eaten sandwiches are a lunch staple that come in a variety of tastes during the holidays, dates back to the 1400s. It contains and textures. We use whole-grain bread from Amy’s Bread for dried fruit and citrus peels and is usually covered with ours. Perfect for parties of all sizes. some form of icing or powdered sugar.

3 cups raisins 4 tablespoons rum 8 cups flour 2 cups lukewarm milk 2 cakes compressed yeast 1 cup sugar Soak the raisins overnight in the rum. Pinch salt 2 cups butter Prepare a yeast dough using the flour, milk, yeast, sugar, salt, and butter. In 3/4 cup ground or chopped turn, work the almonds, lemon peel, almonds orange peel, nutmeg, and raisins into 1 cup candied lemon peel, the dough, kneading well after the finely diced addition of each ingredient. Leave to Grated zest of 1 lemon rest for 1 hour. 3/4 cup candied orange peel, Then knead the dough again, divide in finely sliced half, shape into stollen, and bake in a Ground nutmeg preheated oven at 350°F for 1 hour. Butter for brushing While the stolen is still warm, brush it Confectioners’ sugar with melted butter and dust thickly with for dusting confectioners’ sugar.

Glühwein Makes 14 to 16 cups

Called “glow-wine” after the hot irons used in the mulling Spicy Egg Spread process, Glühwein is most often red wine that has been Makes 1 cup heated with sugar and spices. 5 hard-boiled eggs Puree all ingredients together in a food processor and spread on 3 quarts Zweigelt 1 tablespoon juniper 2 cups honey t tablespoon mayonnaise fingers of bread. red wine berries 1 tablespoon mace 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 1 quart port wine 4 bay leaves Get creative with the toppings. 8 cornichons Heat up all ingredients Chef KG likes to add sliced hard- 2 oranges 1 teaspoon allspice and let simmer for 20 1/2 teaspoon Hungarian sweet paprika boiled eggs with tiny herb sprigs 2 lemons 1 tablespoon black pepper minutes, then strain and 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper on top. 1 vanilla bean 1 teaspoon coriander serve hot! 1 teaspoon drained capers 2 cinnamon sticks seeds

NEUE LIVING 9 Sometimes you don’t even need an occasion to give a gift. So whatever the reason, here are a few of KG’s favorite things. unique gifts for any season HOFFMANN

> WINE STOPPER

Available in nickel-plated pewter or sterling silver, this piece is based on the original designs of Josef Hoffmann, an Austrian architect and > designer of consumer goods in the early 1900s. LAGUIOLE JUNIPER WAITER’S CORKSCREW Exclusively at From France’s Laguiole region, famous for its Neue Galerie. expertly crafted knives, this folding knife is the work of a single master cutter whose craft begins > CHOCOLATE-COVERED ALMONDS with shaping the intricately grained juniper from Café Sabarsky wood and concludes with fitting the ultrastrong Sandvik stainless steel blade. Comes in an Parting is such sweet sorrow, attractive storage box. though ease it a little with these chocolate-covered almonds that Available at Williams-Sonoma. come at the end of each meal at Wallsé. > Available for purchase

at Café Sabarsky. > RIEDEL MAMBA DECANTER OLD-FASHIONED APPLE PEELER Made in Austria, this handcrafted vessel is AND CORER a stunning presentation for entertaining. Combining old-world charm Inspired by the sleek form of a mamba with modern-day convenience snake, its coiled base creates a series of for the serious strudel maker, air pockets, opening up the wine as it flows this sturdy enameled cast steel through each bend and moves toward the hand-cranker peels, cores, and elegant upright neck for pouring. slices through apples in no time!

Available at Williams-Sonoma. Exclusively at Williams-Sonoma.

10 NEUE LIVING swarovski CHANDELIERS NEUE GALERIE TOUR AND LUNCH A gift that combines culture with the culinary arts. Neue Galerie New York is devoted to early-twentieth-century German and Austrian art and design, displayed on two exhibition floors. Located on the , it houses Café Sabarsky and Café Fledermaus, offering the same lunch and dinner menus in slightly different settings. For directions, times, and gift certificate information, visit neuegalerie.org or call 212.994.9493.

Egon Schiele Portrait of Gerti Schiele

Beautiful one-of-a-kind Swarovski Crystal Palace chandeliers— commissioned from some of the world’s top designers—refract countless shards of light across the shimmering, glittery gray walls of Café Kristall. The series was created to provide a stage for Millissime Gegenbauer Steiermark designers to conceptualize, develop, Tomato Vinegar Austrian Pumpkin Seed Oil and share their most radical work. At his craft-vinegar brewery in Vienna, Pumpkin seed oil is an extremely popular Ball, a round chandelier designed by Erwin Gegenbauer painstakingly preserves Austrian specialty that hails from Tom Dixon, creates a glittering sphere the flavor of fruits by turning them into Steiermark, in the southeast of Austria. out of hundreds of suspended crystals. vinegar, without any additional flavoring. Healthful as well as tasty, it is made from It greets guests at the Mercer Street The result is a pale yellow refined and aged the slightly warmed seeds of pumpkins. entrance and appears again above the tomato vinegar that brightens any dish By not fully roasting the seeds before marble bar. with the bounty of summer. extracting the essential oils, the majority of Suspended over an intimate alcove is the seeds’ nutritional value is retained. His family having once owned pickling Light Sock, Diller Scofidio + Renfro’s plants, Gegenbauer developed a passion Styrian pumpkin seeds are unique because deconstructed and witty interpretation for balsamic vinegar at the age of 16. He they have only a tiny silver-colored of a classic chandelier—a mesh sack considers vinegar a seasoning on par with membrane to protects the seed, rather filled solely with Swarovski crystals. A salt and pepper. After fermenting freshly than a typical wooden shell. This is a seamless blend of modern design with pressed juice of fruits and vegetables into great advantage in the pressing process. Swarovski’s vast crystal resources. wine, he injects it with bacteria to turn it The result is a thick, dark green oil with a Descend the staircase and wonder at into vinegar. distinctive nutty flavor and tremendous Cascade, the multistory, cylindrical health benefits. A staple of the Austrian Combining the acidity of a red wine vinegar chandelier by Belgian architect Vincent diet, pumpkin seed oil can be used as a with the mellow flavor of tomatoes, tomato Van Duysen. It features cascading substitute for butter, as a salad oil, or to vinegar is great in meat and poultry chains of Swarovski crystals and refine soups and other dishes. marinades, salad dressings, tomato strands of LEDs to evoke the flow of a sauces, Bloody Marys, and more. Available at austrianpumpkinoil.com waterfall. This work of art is 10 feet tall and 20 inches wide. Available at cubemarketplace.com. NEUE LIVING 11 Great Variety in Austria “I am extremely proud of what we have done in the way of making Austrian wines more popular in New York. We have such a great selection in stock that I often have Austrian winemakers marveling at the labels we carry, many of which they can’t even get their hands on anymore!” —Chef Kurt Gutenbrunner Red Varietals White Varietals

Zweigelt Grüner Veltliner I’ve always had a passion for wine. The most widespread red wine varietal The most popular white and most I went to an Austrian hospitality in Austria, zwiegelt grows in all the wine important grape varietal in Austria, Grüner school in Vienna while at the time regions. This violet-reddish-colored wine Veltliner is widely planted, especially in working at Steirereck, one of the ranges from young-drinking to strong, firm Niederösterreich and northern Burgenland. finest restaurants in the country. I wines. This grape delivers wines of all levels of traveled for a bit and ended up in quality, though spicy, peppery versions “An easy-to-drink table wine, low in Alsace, France, where I first worked with stone-fruit notes are preferred. tannins. A hidden cherry note, a light to in a restaurant but then moved on to medium body, mostly on the lighter side. “Light, easy, fresh, with some pepper a local winery. There, I learned every Our go-to wine with a plate of charcuterie.” notes, some green apple, a bit of acidity. step of the winemaking process, from Lemon and lime notes, which work well driving the tractor and harvesting Blaufränkisch in the summer. Higher-end vintages can to pressing and selling. After that, I The blueish-black blaufränkisch grapes have less spice and more ripe apple notes. headed home to finish my diploma grow in the wine regions of Burgenland You have more on your palate; your finish as a sommelier and deepen my wine and Carnuntum. This late-ripening variety is longer. The acidity will keep this wine studies. In 2007, I took a job on a is characterized by deep woodberry or fresh and enjoyable even after six or seven cruise line as a sommelier in its cherry tones and can yield wines with years.” main dining room. The fast pace and dense structure and prominent tannins organization was a real eye-opener. with good aging potential. Riesling Off the boat and back in Austria Next to the Grüner Veltliner, this is the “More structure that makes for a longer in 2008, I fortuitously crossed most important white wine variety in the finish. Fruit notes plus some spiciness that paths with Kurt while he was on Wachau and the most widely grown white gives it a unique character.” vacation in Vienna. A month later, variety for all quality levels of wine. Young I was working for him in New York. Riesling wines have dominant notes of Saint Laurent stone fruit and can reflect a minerality Kurt gives Austrian fare a modern Named after St. Lawrence’s Day, August reminiscent of slate or flint. Aged wines interpretation—not so easy to do in 10th, the day when these grapes begin to have rose-like scents and can develop a an American marketplace saturated change color. Saint Laurent is not an easy pleasurable petrol tone. with French and Italian culinary grape to grow. It is sensitive, low yielding, influences—but he has done it well. and needs deep soil, but it yields high- “Many think all Rieslings are sweet, but The wine program is different at quality dark, sturdy, and fruity wines with that is definitely not the case with Austrian each of our locations. For the most good ageability. Rieslings—95 percent of their production part, we have a 100 percent Austrian is bone-dry.” “Similar to a pinot noir with a little more wine list. It’s exciting to be able to texture, very smooth and inviting. It has showcase Austrian wines and watch slight red-berry fruit notes and a medium their popularity grow each year. finish.” —Leo Schneemann

12 NEUE LIVING wine pairings

Blaue Gans Wallsé Beef Goulash with Spaetzle and Roasted Peppers Wiener Schnitzel, Potato Cucumber Salad, Lingonberries Heideboden (ZW-BF) Reeh—Neusiedlersee, Burgenland 2011 Neuberger, Federspiel, Wallsé Edition—J. Donabaum, Wachau, Niederösterreich 2011

Café Kristall Café Sabarsky Upholstery winebar Veal Sliders Oven-Baked Veal with Mâche Salad, Palatschinken mit Räucherforelle & Oberskren Chilled Enjoy one of our wine-based Sautéed Potato, Veal Jus Smoked Trout Crêpes and Horseradish, Crème Fraîche cocktails, like the Antique St. Laurent, Altenberg—Glatzer, Carnuntum, Grüner Veltliner, Heiligenstein—Weingut Hirsch, Fruit—fresh black berries Niederösterreich 2004 Kammern, Kamptal 2011 cooked with cherry vinaigrette, mixed with red wine, with soda water on top. Wallsé Wine

Kurt approached wine director Leo who specialized in that Neuburger. “We Leo and Kurt chose this wine for its food- Schneemann about making a house asked him for a straightforward wine, friendly versatility. “This used to be the wine back at the beginning of 2010. He nothing too big or with oak. We went to wine you had with schnitzel on a Sunday originally wanted to do a Grüner Veltliner, Austria for the 2011 harvest and since then back in the day. It was always something but Leo steered him into a slightly different the project has come together very nicely.” special. It pairs well with Chinese and direction. “Grüner Veltliner was already Japanese dishes—anything with heat or Neuburger is a cross between a Sylvaner so popular here, and I thought we should spice because the low acidity balances it and a Roter Veltliner. Leo describes it as do something more in line with his out.” And at Wallsé, it works nicely with a more fuller bodied with a lot of elegance. heritage,” explains Leo. “Since Kurt went variety of dishes. “We have a lobster dish “On the younger side, you have green-nut to school in Wachau and also did his first with bok choy, vanilla, and pineapple that flavors with a lot of floral notes. A medium apprenticeship there, I thought he should it is perfect with, as well as, of course, palate makes it very enjoyable, and a lower use the indigenous Neuberger grape, which the schnitzel and a sardine appetizer with acidity makes it very fresh. Matured, it has we served by the glass—then and now.” roasted bell peppers, garlic, and zucchini roasted-nut flavors with a very creamy bread crumbs.” Luckily, Leo had worked with a young palate for a long finish.” winemaker Johann Donabaum in Austria,

NEUE LIVING 13 SPARKLING SENSATIONS

Located in Gols, Burgenland, Szigeti is Austria’s only family- KLIMT-EDITION SZIGETI SEKT owned winery dedicated to sparkling wine production. Brothers Peter and Norbert Szigeti employ centuries-old Conceived by Kurt and Leo and produced knowledge from the Champagne region, combined with by Szigeti, this special Klimt edition Blanc the latest technology and innovative ideas, to produce de Blanc Brut 2009 features the artwork of more than 35 different sparkling wines. ’s Adele Bloch Bauer that hangs in the Neue Galerie, who is celebrating the The charm of Szigeti wines lies in their continues, the wines rest on the spent painting’s 100th anniversary in 2013. fresh, lovely aromatics, lively textures, yeast for 15 months or more, ripening and “We wanted to produce a sparkling wine in and elegant fruity flavors. In addition to developing in the bottle, which results line with our heritage to commemorate the such classic wines as Grüner Veltliner and in a perfect mousseux, or perlage, of 150th anniversary of Klimt’s birth, as well Welschriesling Brut, Szigeti also creates delicate, fine bubbles and finely developed as the book-release party for Neue Cuisine. premium sparkling wines from chardonnay, flavors. At the end of this resting period, We took 50 percent of the Chardonnay muscat ottonel, and pinot noir rosé. computer-controlled riddling machines grapes from Wachau and 50 percent from bring the bottles slowly and carefully from Juice from the finest, ripest, and healthiest Hungary, not only because Peter Szigeti a horizontal to an upside-down position, grapes grown in Burgenland/Pannonia, was producing some Hungarian wines but allowing the yeast to move gently down to the sunniest region in Austria, is also because of the historical aspect of our the bottle neck. At the end of the riddling fermented in the bottle using the méthode joint empire. Instead of brandy or cognac process, the bottles move neck down into traditionnelle, a labor-intensive and highly for the dosage, we added an Austrian sweet a freezing agent to embed the yeast in an specialized method that preserves and wine. The result is a wine with green flavors ice cube. Then the yeast and ice cube is refines the freshness and flavors of each on the nose, a creamy palate, and a very removed, or degorged, and the dosage grape variety used. acidic-driven structure that makes it fresh.” is added to give the last refinement to The bottle was a key visual for everyone Production at Szigeti is a rigorous process. the sparkling wine. Different from the involved. Thanks to permission granted by Once the grapes are pressed, fermentation Champagne region, where a sugar and wine Ronald Lauder, Kurt and Leo were able to begins with the best Champagne yeast, solution is added, Szigeti sparkling wines take photos of Adele to use on the label. imported directly from France. The wines are replenished with selected dessert The overall result is a fusion of culinary and rest on the yeast until the fermentation wines from the region. starts in the bottle. As fermentation art—both inside and outside the bottle.

14 NEUE LIVING Ausflugsziel, Austria

(Destination Austria)

Zum Schwarzes Kameel Restaurant Steirereck

With just 11 tables and set Located in one of the most in a perfectly preserved beautiful settings in town, Art Deco dining room, Zum Steirereck’s commitment Schwarzes Kameel is a to indigenous sourcing, treasure trove of culinary the revival of forgotten delights. Opened in 1618, dishes, and the promotion it features a delicatessen of sustainability have selling everything from earned it considerable specialty meats to wine. praise, including 11th The café is renown for its ranking in ‘The World’s hearty and flavorful cuisine, 50 Best restaurants.” An Outside Vienna including herring filet Oslo, unsung culinary hero, potato soup, tournedos, Steirereck’s chef-owner roman saltimbocca (veal Heinz Reitbauer creates Restaurant Obauer, Gasthaus Steirawirt, Heurigenhof with ham), and an array of a “corner of Styria” in Salzburg Steiermark Bründlmayer, daily fish specials. this intimate and rustic Langenlois restaurant with traditional It’s worth the 45-minute Brother and sister Sonja Bognergasse 5, Vienna Viennese dishes and new train ride from Salzburg and Richard Rauch have Don’t miss the fresh nut +43 (0)1 533 81 25 11 Austrian selections on the to sample the cuisine of turned this 120-year dumplings at Heurigenhof kameel.at menu. Karl and Rudolph Obauer, guesthouse into one of Bründlmayer, a quaint who worked for some the finest restaurants in wine tavern that offers Am Heumarkt 2A Vienna of the greatest chefs of Styria. Their food displays both typical Heurigen Hotel Sacher +43 (1) 713 31 68 Europe before opening all their avid passion and products, such as steirereck.at Founded in 1876, this five- their own little hotel and enthusiasm for regional bacon, sausages and star hotel located opposite restaurant in this pristine products, integrating cheese, as well as more the Vienna State Opera is hilltop village. Their tradition with innovation Urbanek am sophisticated dishes. famous for its specialty kitchen turns out fare in their culinary Naschmarkt of the house, the Sacher that is regional, seasonal, techniques. Walterstraße 14, Torte, a chocolate cake with It’s tiny, but step inside creative, traditional and Langenlois Trautmannsdorf 6, Styria apricot filling. There is also Urbanek and enter a world modern, hot and cold, +43 (0) 2 734 28 83 +43 (0) 31 59 41 06 an art gallery in the hotel of the finest selection of and usually all of the heurigenhof.at steirawirt.at featuring works from the cured meats and cheeses above at the same time. 19th century. The hotel is that will truly impress. Try the venison terrine, built where Antonio Vivaldi Run by three charming the Werfen lamb, the once lived. men—Gerhard and his Pongau lamb, or other two sons—this place is dishes made with local Philharmonikerstraße 4, a delight for gourmands ingredients. Vienna who don’t mind enjoying +43 (0) 1 514 560 Markt 46, Salzburg a glass at wine in close sacher.com +43 (0) 6468 52 12 0 quarters! obauer.com Naschmarkt Stand 46, Vienna +43 (0) 1 587 20 80zwienernaschmarkt.eu

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Social Calendar

Yoko Ono and Swarovski together In September, Swarovski celebrated the launch of Yoko Ono’s limited-edition crystal key cuts at Café Kristall, with Chef Kurt Gutenbrunner as host. In attendance were Julianne Moore, Elizabeth Olsen, Chelsea Leyland, Alek Wek, Nadja Swarovski, Julie Macklowe, Zani Gugelmann, Flo Fulton, Cameron Silver, Emma Snowden Jones, Waris Ahluwalia, Anne Grauso, Mia Moretti, Catlin Moe, Bruce Weber, and Yoko Ono.

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1. Alek Wek and Bruce Weber 2. Yoko Ono and Nadja Swarovski 3. Lynn Yeager 4. Marlon Gobel 5. Julie Macklowe and Ken Downing 6. Mia Moretti and Caitlin Moe 7. Rod Keenan and Cameron Silver 8. Waris Ahluwalia and DJ Chelsea Leyland 9. Yoko Ono 10. Kurt Gets His Citizenship 11. Kurt and Whoopi Host Shake 10. 11. 12. & Bake 12. Greenmarket Heirloom Tomatoes

10-Mile Dinner NYCFWF Shake & Bake Taste of the Greenmarket

On September 22nd, German winemaker On October 11th, Whoopi Goldberg At the Fifth Annual Taste of Greenmarket held on June 27th, Roman Roth of Wölffer Estate Vineyard hosted Shake & Bake, an event whose more than 20 of the city’s finest chefs and mixologists and Chef Kurt Gutenbrunner teamed up menu features a star chef–studded love prepared market-inspired dishes and cocktails for an in Southampton at the winery’s historic for fried chicken. In attendance was Chef elegant evening and silent auction that honored Women in Hamptons home for an unforgettable Gutenbrunner, who marked the occasion Agriculture, pioneers who have paved the way for the next meal to benefit the East End Hospice. with his backhendl—a golden fried generation of regional farmers. Chef Gutenbrunner cooked chicken—and potato arugula salad heirloom tomatoes two ways, and all proceeds benefited Greenmarket’s Youth Education Project.

NEUE LIVING 17 HauteNotes Publisher From the publisher, HauteNotes is about the discovery of all things innovative and Michael Goldman exciting in food and wine, art and design, and style and travel. Visit hautenotes.com.

Editor-in-Chief HAUTEVineyard Susy schieffelin Design Director Jana Potashnik BAIRDesign, Inc. Copy Editor kelly suzan waggoner Contributing Editor Pamela Jouan Photography courtesy of KG-NY

Advertising [email protected] HauteLife Press a division of C-BON MEDIA, LLC. 321 Dean Street Suite 1 Brooklyn, NY 11217 www.hautelifepress.com [email protected] Subscription Inquiries 718.288.8688 [email protected] or visit www.hautelifepress.com Printed and bound in the U.S.A. HauteLife Press makes every effort Wölffer Estate Vineyard to ensure that the information it Sagaponack, New York publishes is correct but cannot be Perched on a rise overlooking vineyards to the east and the held responsible for any errors or gently rolling Hamptons landscape to the west, Wölffer Estate omissions. Vineyard is unquestionably one of the most beautiful and stylish © 2012 All rights reserved. on Long Island. Rivaling European wineries, the rustic, Tuscan- Reproduction without permission style building, with its warm ochre walls, houses a lavish tasting is strictly prohibited. room with imported stained-glass doors, an expansive portico, and a state-of–the-art winery underneath. An appropriate foundation for the world-class Wölffer wines, among them the popular rosé known in the Hamptons as “Summer in a Bottle,” created and nurtured by winemaker Roman Roth. Wölffer Estate Vineyard values its long and gratifying relationship with Chef Kurt Gutenbrunner while watching his creativity and passion for life drive his many successes.

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WALLSÉ CAFE SABARSKY BLAUE GANS UPHOLSTERY WINEBAR CAFE KRISTALL KG-NY Restaurant Group 344 West 11th Street 1048 139 Duane Street 713 Washington Street 70 Mercer Street SUSY SCHIEFFELIN New York, NY 10014 New York, NY 10028 New York, NY 10013 New York, NY 10014 New York NY 10012 Director of Marketing & PR Tel. 212.352.2300 Tel. 212.288.0665 Tel. 212.571.8880 Tel. 212.240.9557 Tel.212.274.1500 [email protected] Tel. 212.240.9557 x14

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