C6 WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 18, 2017 VANCOUVER SUN YOU WHY RYE? It’s rich in flavour, but don’t treat it like wheat, Laura Brehaut writes.
“The way to be successful in bak- frankly I don’t think are possible, ing with rye is to forget everything even with the most sophisticated you know about baking with wheat chemical processes, to get out of flour,” Stanley Ginsberg says with wheat.” a laugh. A native New Yorker, Ginsberg “It’s important to respect rye for grew up eating rye bread from Jew- what it is, which is a completely dif- ish bakeries in Brooklyn. ferent, quirky, stubborn, difficult As the bakeries began to dwindle, but incredibly rewarding grain to he noticed that the full-bodied fla- work with.” vours of his childhood loaves were Rich in flavour and “loaded with also disappearing. In their place minerals and trace nutrients,” rye were spongy, mass-produced ovals is higher in fibre and protein and heavily laced with caraway. lower in calories than wheat, he “One of the things I’ve discov- says. ered is that people tend to be a lot It has unique feel, fragrance and more amenable to non-rye ancient chemistry. And it behaves com- grains, spelt and emmer (etc.). pletely differently, from mixing And I think a lot of it is because of dough to shaping loaves. what has passed for rye bread for The award-winning author so many years,” he says. delves into the grain’s history “For demand to grow — unlike and idiosyncrasies in his second a lot of the other ancient grains cookbook, The Rye Baker (W. W. where people will approach them Norton). with an open mind — rye, for a good From Nordic crispbreads to the part of the market, demands re- minimalist loaves of France and education. And it demands open- Spain, Ginsberg shares more than ing minds that are … better than 70 recipes spanning Europe and halfway closed.” the United States. Every loaf in the book has par- Rye brings distinct mouth feel, ticular “quirks” of taste and tech- taste, texture and appearance to nique that reflect its place of ori- baked goods. But it’s also notori- gin, Ginsberg says. ous for being “sticky, unstable, Rye was the principal grain (and) mercurial in the presence across Northern, Central and East- of yeast.” ern Europe, and breads tended to Baking consistently good rye be extremely localized; reflecting “These are wonderful all-around rolls, equally tasty with cream cheese, jam, or butter or as a slider bun or dinner bread, Ginsberg says, relies greatly the agriculture, geography, tastes, roll,” Stanley Ginsberg writes in The Rye Baker. PHOTOS: QUENTIN BACON/W. W. NORTON on understanding its chemistry. and cultures of the immediate Whereas wheat doughs are area. built on gluten, rye doughs rely “To me, (rye) is this incredibly SALTY RYE ROLLS (SIGTEBOLLER) on starchy gels (arabinoxylan) for rich historical and cultural and structure. culinary experience that hardly Start to finish: 2 1/2-3 hours 1. Combine the flours, yeast, 5. Roll each dough piece into Because of this, rye breads don’t anybody knows about,” he says. Hands-on time: 30-40 minutes and salt in the mixer. Dissolve a ball, press the bottom (seam require the same lengthy kneading “Each bread that I bake is a cul- Makes: One dozen 2 1/2 oz/ the molasses in the water, then side) into the rolled oats, then time — these viscous gels form im- tural exploration … (Rye) breads 70 g rolls add to the dry ingredients and place on a parchment-lined sheet mediately when water meets flour. aren’t just something to eat or use the dough hook at low speed pan. The baker need only ensure even something to bake, but they’re also ■■ 2 1/2 cups (625 mL/314 g) until the dough leaves the sides 6. Cover and proof at room hydration of the dough. a crystallization of a very particu- medium rye flour of the bowl and forms a smooth, temperature until the dough has Another key difference, Ginsberg lar time and place.” ■■ 1 3/4 cups (430 mL/250 g) elastic mass, 6-8 minutes. expanded to twice its original says, is that while wheat baking in- Note: If mixing and kneading by bread flour 2. Cover and ferment at room size, 40-50 minutes. corporates sophisticated shaping, hand, Ginsberg recommends en- ■■ 1 tbsp (15 mL/10 g) instant yeast temperature (68-72 F/20-22 C) 7. Preheat the oven to 375 F rye’s nature simply doesn’t lend it- suring the dough is evenly blended ■■ 1 tsp (5 mL/7 g) salt until doubled, about 1 hour. (190 C) with the baking surface self to the technique. and hydrated: “No lumps; no pock- ■■ 1 tbsp (15 mL/23 g) 3. Turn the dough, which will in the upper third. “I have a couple of very interest- ets of dry flour.” Rye doughs are unsulphured dark molasses be soft, pliable and tacky, onto a 8. Slash the rolls once to a depth ing French baking books and es- built on starchy gels (rather than ■■ 1 1/2 cups (375 mL/350 g) lightly floured surface. of 1/4-1/2 inch (0.6-1.25 cm), sentially, it’s the same dough. The gluten) and as such, don’t require warm (105 F/41 C) water 4. Knead gently back to its brush generously with water, and difference in the various breads lengthy kneading. Additionally, ■■ Bread flour for dusting, original volume and divide into sprinkle with caraway first and — epis, baguettes, boules, bâtards, keep a container of water at the as needed 12 pieces weighing about 2 3/4 oz then salt. tabatière and on and on — is the ready to dip your hands in when (80 g) each. 9. Bake until the crust is light to shaping technique,” he says. necessary: Rye dough is sticky. For topping: medium brown, 20-25 minutes. “Rye is a whole different animal. Recipes are excerpted from The Rye ■■ 3/4 cup (180 mL/56 g) rolled oats Let cool on the pan. It’s the chemistry that produces Baker by Stanley Ginsberg with ■■ 1 tbsp (15 mL/7 g) caraway seed this incredibly varied spectrum of permission of the publisher, ■■ 1 tbsp (15 mL/14 g) kosher salt flavour profiles and nuances that W. W. Norton & Company, Inc.
SWEET LIMPA (SIRAPLIMPA)
Start to finish: 2 hours Hands-on time: 25 minutes Makes: Two 1 1/2 lb (680 g) loaves
■■ 3 1/2 tbsp (52.5 mL/50g) unsalted butter ■■ 1 2⁄3 cups (410 mL/400 g) whole milk, at room tempera- ture (68-72 F/20-22 C) ■■ 3⁄8 cup (100 mL/100 g) warm water (105 F/41 C) ■■ 1/2 cup (125 mL/150 g) light molasses, malt syrup or light corn syrup ■■ 2 tsp (10 mL/12 g) salt ■■ 1 1/4 tsp (6 mL/3 g) caraway seed, toasted and ground ■■ 1 tsp (5 mL/2 g) fennel seed, toasted and ground ■■ 1/2 tsp (2.5 mL/2 g) aniseed (anise), toasted and ground ■■ 1 tsp (5 mL/2 g) coriander seed, NORMANDY APPLE CIDER RYE (PAIN AU CIDRE) toasted and ground ■■ 6 2⁄3 cups (1.66 L/850 g) Start to finish: 3 1/2-4 hours 3. Turn the dough onto a medium rye flour Hands-on time: 20 minutes well-floured work surface and ■■ 2 tsp (10 mL/8 g) instant yeast Makes: Two 1 1/2 lb (680 g) loaves sprinkle the top with additional ■■ Flour for dusting, as needed flour. ■■ 5-5 ¼ cups (1.25-1.31 L/650 g) 4. Divide it into two pieces, 1. In a saucepan, melt the butter medium rye flour each weighing just under 1 3/4 lb over medium heat, then add the ■■ 2 cups (500 mL/260 g) (800 g), and use floured hands to milk, water, syrup, salt and spices all-purpose flour shape them into round or oblong and warm to 105 F (41 C). ■■ 3 cups less 2 tbsp (720 mL/ loaves. 2. Put the flour and yeast into a 650 g) hard cider, at room 5. Set the loaves on a well- mixer, add the milk mixture, and temperature floured peel, if using a baking use the dough hook at low speed ■■ 2 1/2 tsp (12.5 mL/15 g) salt stone, or a parchment-lined to mix into a firm, smooth dough, ■■ 1 tbsp (15 mL/7 g) instant yeast sheet pan. Cover and proof at about 5 minutes. ■■ 2 1/2 tsp (12.5 mL/10 g) room temperature until the 3. Cover and ferment at room granulated sugar loaves start to show cracks or temperature (68-72 F/20-22 C) ■■ Flour for dusting, as needed broken bubbles, 45-60 minutes. until the dough has visibly 6. Preheat the oven to 400 F expanded, 40-45 minutes. 1. In a mixer, combine the dough (205 C), with the baking surface 4. Turn the dough, which will be ingredients and mix using the in the middle. only slightly sticky and very easy dough hook at low speed, scrap- 7. Brush the loaves with water, to handle, onto a lightly floured ing down the bowl as needed, slash oblong loaves once or twice work surface and divide it into until the dough becomes very to a depth of 1/4-1/2 inch (0.6- two pieces weighing about 28 oz 6. Cover and proof at room 8. Bake until the loaf thumps stringy and sticky, 18-20 min- 1.25 cm), and bake until the loaf (794 g) each. temperature until the first cracks when tapped with a finger and utes. thumps when tapped with a fin- 5. Shape each piece into an oval appear on the surface of the the internal temperature is at 2. Cover and ferment at room ger and the internal temperature loaf. Set the loaves on a well- loaves, 30-40 minutes. least 198 F (92 C), 35-40 min- temperature (68-72 F/20-22 C) is at least 198 F (92 C), floured peel, if using a baking 7. Preheat the oven to 400 F utes. until the dough has visibly 35-40 minutes. stone, or a parchment-lined (205 C) with the baking surface 9. Transfer to a rack and cool expanded, 60-90 minutes. 8. Transfer to a rack and cool sheet pan. in the middle. thoroughly before slicing. thoroughly before slicing.