KLAMATH ECHOES

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...... • Sanctioned by Klamath County Historical Society

Number 15 Deserted homesteader cabin from the 1905·1915 era.

OLD PLACES I love old places whose paths Have welcomed many feet, Whose hopes have reached to brush the stars And felt the snow and sleet; They have a way of leading back Through years and years of time, To where a host of memories Make our thoughts sublime.

1- Orson Avery "O.A." Stearns IU3·1926

DEDICATION

We respectfully dedicate this. the fifteenth issue of Klamath Echoes to Orson Avery (O.A.) Stearns, emigrant of 1853 over the Applegate Trail; soldier in the Oregon Volunteers of 1863-1867 at Fort Klamath: first homesteader in the Klamath Basin, 1867; and historical writer of many important events which oc­ curred in the Klamath Country prior to 1909. when the first Klamath Pioneer Society was formed.

II Klamath Echoes Staff

DEVERE HELFRICH ...... Managing Editor HELEN HELFRICH ...... Assistant Editor

OFFICERS Klamath County Historical Society

NORMA UERLING ...... President OSCAR ANDERSON ...... Vice President JIM PETERS ...... Secretary-Treasurer BEVERLY CHEYNE ...... Programme Chairman LEONA ANGEL, JIM COLEMAN. JERRY CARL. AND BILL CLARK ...... Directors

Address all communications to: KLAMATH ECHOES P .0. BOX 1552 KLAMATH FALLS, OREGON 97601

THE COVER: Map of Southern Klamath County, the area covered in this issue of Klamath Echoes. Drawn by Devere Helfrich.

III Editor's Page

This writer is a Native Oregonian. Shovel Creek (Klamath Hot Springs. born in Old Crook County, raised in or Beswickl on the Klamath River in Deschutes County, and a resident of California. Included are the h istories Klamath County since 1933. For over of two ghost towns of early Klamath forty years he has been researching County. sites of everal long since principally two subjects: emigrant trail vamshed boat landings. also some locations from the Mi souri River. stage and freight stations. Further. we t over the various branche to the several remini cence are included Pacific Coast State . and. local whjch are unknown to most present outhern Oregon and Northern day readers which tell of early California bjstory. Klamath Cotmtry happenings. During that time an enormous For these we are indebted to several amount of information has been sources. namely. the several writers gathered together with several who cared enough to leave their thousand photos. Fourteen issues of remmtsceoces in writing: The Klamath Echoes have been published. Ashland Tiding , Jacksonville and everal more are partially com­ Democratic Time . The Klamath pleted. Many communities have been Republican, T he Evening Herald. covered. Yet. with all the painstaking The Herald and ews. and the research done in the pa t. new infor­ KLamath County Clerk ·s Deed Re­ mation has continued to turn up in cords. Finally. to the Siskiyou County unexpected pLaces so that all writings Historical Society for permission to could be updated to some extent. reprint several articles from their This. the fifteenth issue of Klamath Siskiyou Piont>er we owe our deepest Echoes will cover long overlooked ec­ thanks. These ources. coupled with tions of Southern Klamath County our many hour of research and per­ south of Klamath Falls. and lying on sonal photo file have contributed to a both ides of the Oregon-California historr we hope meets your approval. line from near Merrill to the mouth of The Editor

lV H-dlng wh-t In the Klamath laaln. Maude Baldwin Photo

Threshing south-st of Klamath Falla. F. M. Priest Photo

Hauling lumber along Summer's lone during the Irrigation projed construction period, 1906· 1908. F.M. Priest Photo v TABLE OF CONTENTS

Editor's Page ...... IV 0. A. Stearns. Pioneer Homesteader .. O.A. Stearns ...... l Merganser ...... Devere HeUrich ...... 12 White Lake City ...... Devere HeUrich ...... 25 Told To Me ...... Kenneth McLeod, Jr ...... 34 Henley ...... Devere Helfrich ...... 35 Altamont ...... Devere HeUrich ...... 50 Letter ...... F. P. Cronem iller ...... 57 Midland ...... Devere HeUrich ...... 58 Abel Ady ...... Frank Ira White ...... 61 William Skeen ...... Leona Thackara Andrus ...... 62 Pioneers of Laird's Landing ...... Laird Family ...... 64 Told To Me ...... Alex J. Roseborough ...... 67 Told To Me ...... "Bill" Bray ...... 68 Written To Me ...... Leila L. (Carrick) Humphrey ..... 69 Teeter's Landing ...... Frances (Teeterl Dexter ...... 70 Winter of 1889-90 ...... Emma Otey ...... 72 Told To Me ...... Mrs. J. A. (May Tower) Gray .. .. 73 Klamath Hot Springs ...... Alice Hessig ...... 74 Double Heart Ranch ...... Betty Dow ...... 82 Told To Me ...... Joe Hessig ...... 85 Land Development - Klamath Basin .. Edmund M . Chilcote ...... 86 R. A. Emmit Reminiscences ...... E vening Herald ...... 90 Remme's Great Ride ...... Evening Herald ...... 90 Told To Me ...... " Bob·· Adams ...... 92 Told To Me ...... Fanny (Adamsl Bryngelson ...... 92 Did You Know? ...... Evening Herald ...... 93

VI Source of first Irrigation water In old llnkvllle (Klamath Falls). Fountain and pool at the Evan R-mes home on Conger Avenue, north of link River Bridge. Water came from several artesian well~ . Maude Baldwin Photo

\ ' II O.A. Stearns, Pioneer Klamath Homesteader 111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111 (The following letter was written by daughters, their wives, husbands and Orson Avery (O.A.) Stearns on children, in all 29 Stearns family January l st, 1870. Mr. Stearns has members. They left Illinois on April been called the second man to settle in 5th, and traveling the Applegate Trail, the Klamath Basin. and the first per­ arrived on Wagner Creek. near manent homesteader. Actually Wen­ present day Talent, Oregon. six months dolen Nus preceeded Mr. Stearns by and four days later, or about October several years according to the latter's 9th. own statement. Nus pastured stock On November 17, 1864 O.A. during the winter oJ 1858-59 along the Stearns enlisted in Company I. First Klamath River. part of the time on Regiment of Oregon Volunteers and land later to become the homestead of was stationed at Fort Klamath until Mr. Stearns. about midway between the Civil War ended and regular army Klamath Falls and Keno. According troops could once more man the post. to the History of Central Oregon, Some time was also spent in the Steens 1905. Nus later went to the John Day Mountain area of extreme south mines, returning to the Klamath coun­ eastern Oregon. Mr. Stearns rose to try in 1866. He then located on the the rank of first sergeant. west side of Upper Klamath Lake Sometime during the latter part of about three miles northwesterly from March, or early April, 1867, some later Linkvillc, now Klamath. Falls. "two weeks after George Nurse foun­ Here he built a cabin. did some fenc­ ded Linkville," Mr. Stearns filed on a ing (a stone fence. remains of which homestead on Klamath River west of can still be seen), and there passed the the present day Weyerhaeuser winter of 1866-67. That winter he fur­ Sawmill. Shortly thereafter he was nished beef for Fort Klamath. In 1867 mustered out of the Volunteers at he took up a place on the east bank of Jacksonville, Oregon, July 19. 1867 Klamath River. about two miles below and within two weeks returned to his the present site of Klamath Falls (later homestead of 120 acres, in time the old Gleim ranch. across Klamath enlarging it to 417 acres with ad­ River opposite the Klamath Lumber ditional purchases of State Land. At Company sawmill, south of the about this same time O.T. Brown, Reames Goli and Country Clubl. also employed at Fort Klamath, Here Nus built a cabin and ran a ferry located a homestead on Spencer Creek across the Klamath River. He was some five or more miles west of Keno. killed the opening day of the Modoc Mr. Stearns married Margaret Jane War, north of Captain Jack's Camp Riggs on May 17. 1873 and to this near the Stone Bridge. union three children were born: Leslie O.A. Stearns was born January 9. Orin. Blanche Alice (Agerl. and Eva 1843 in Winnebago County. Illinois. May !Bryant, Bowdoin, Worley l. He came west with his parents, across Margaret Jane died May 17, 1895 on the plains in 1853. The Stearns her 22nd wedding anniversary. Mr. emigrant train consisted of the pater­ Stearns married for a second time on nal grandfather. four sons, two January 10, 1897 to Luella M. Sher- 1 man, a second cousin o£ William changes have taken place in my Tecumseh Sherman. To this union father's family. My oldest brother was born a son. E. Orson Everett. Oscar was married a year ago last O.A. Stearns is credited with Oct. to a Miss Sarah McMannus. establishing the first dairy in the Last February I lost one of the best Klamath country regarding which the of mothers. She. died of smallpox. and Klamath Republican of April 2. was followed in eight days by my 1903 wrote: "O.A. Stearns who has youngest brother. George. My sister provided the town with choice butter Arminda was married last ] une to a for many years. announces in an man by the name of Purvis, a tanner Ashland paper that he proposes to quit by trade. They live about ten miles the business and offers his cows and from my father's where Mr. Purvis equipment for sale. His customers has charge of a tannery. I think he is here will regret to hear such news." an excellent man. Mr. Stearns moved into Klamath My younger brother, Newel. is on Falls in 1909 and later retired to my father's place. and there is talk of Ashland. his being married soon. As for myself. He was the first Justice of the Peace I am about sixty five miles East of my presiding over all of Lake County. father's on the margin of the great then including most of what is now Klamath basin country and across the Klamath and Lake Counties. In 1880 Cascade range of mountains. East of he was elected to the State Legislature Rogue River. I have been here nearly on the Republican ticket. two years and a haJJ; ever since I was Mr. Stearns died in Ashland. mustered out of the U.S. service. My Oregon on July 29. 1926. His home place was the second one taken up in building site as later developed in this countrv and when I came here the Klamath County lies south of High­ indians we~e still occupying the coun­ way 66 some 200 or more vards east of try though it had already been ceded the' Round Lake Road junction. At to the U.S. by treaty stipulations. The one time it was known as the Hiram indians were subsequently removed to Murdoch ranch-- The Editor.) the reservation about thirty five miles Mr. Stearns' letter. addressed to from here on Sprague River. Upper some. as of now. unidentified person Klamath Lake and Klamath Marsh. follows: During the past year there have also been collected there several hundred Briar Springs Snakes (indians) and during the past January lst. 1870 week the tribe of Modocks numbering Kind Friend nearly three hundred were removed In looking over my old letters today there. from Little Klamath and I came across yours of last April Modock lakes. South. and South East which 1 had laid away marked "An­ of here. swered.'' Now as I had thought all the Soon after taking up my ranch. I time that it was never answered there took in a partner, a young man by the is good reason to believe that it was so name of Lewellyn Colver. a former marked through mistake. I will try to companion in a~ms. He stayed with answer some of the questions asked in me a year when growing tired of your letter, but which you have doubt- · pioneering and its lonliness, he sold less forgotten ere this. out to his father who comes out here Since I wrote you last. great two or three times each year but does

2 "'~ Onetime O.A. Stearns home. still standing near the site of his original homestead cabin described In the followi ng page s. Helen Helfrich Photo not stay long, or do much in the way jointed but are put down rough, of improving his part of the place leaving a few small cracks, not quite when here. Some of the time I have Large enough to admit a persons foot been a lone. some of the time had between the boards. but quite large hired help for company. My castle I enough to admit plenty of fresh air. built of hewn logs eight by ten inches To the right of my fireplace. and oc­ in thickness and fourteen by sixteen cupying all the space between it and feet in length. It fronts towards the the wall on that side, except a space setting sun and has a porch on the side large enough to hang my coffeemill . with a ground floor. The apartments stands my cupboard. It is six feet in are divided into two, one below stairs height, the exact distance from the and the other above. floor to the Uoice) above. and is about The lower apartment has a fireplace one foot in depth, has boards for the in the North end built of volcanic rock side next the fireplace, and the wall and mother earth, large enough to makes the other side. It bas seven admit a stick three feet in length. It is shelves made of split pine boards about 16 inches in depth, has stone resting on cleets of the same material. andirons projecting from the jams on nailed to the sides. It contains a large each side and a large stone hearth in amount of a variety of styles, also front. My floor is of sawn lumber several wooden boxes (empty tea which was rafted from the fort down chests) and tin boxes, bottles, tin cans, the Lake, thirty miles and hauled eight tin kettles, pans of milk &-c. The miles, the distance from the lake here. lower shelf contains several black ket­ The boards are neither planed nor tles and two tin reflectors for baking. 3 An empty sugar barrel (that is em­ the last I have never read but kept it ptied of its sugar) standing against the on hand as a last resort when other East wall and against the cupboard reading matter fails. contains a part of a fifty pound sack of On top of the cupboard between the flour; the head of the barrel unlike the joice, are about a dozen numbers of majority of barrel heads is on top of " Harper's Magazine." and one copy the barrel and has a piece of wood of the Overland Monthly Justice nailed across the top of it, projecting Docket Leger, several papers and my about an inch on either side with a portfolio. scallop cut underneath it in the center Underneath this bookcase is my to admit of being hold of. This latter bed, a very rude frame work on four piece of architecture of my own inven­ legs, with wooden bedcords, hay tion and took about ten minutes to matrass, several army blankets, two or complete it. To the right of the barrel three ancient quilts in their dotage and is a shell about two feet from the two flour sacks full of wild goose and floor, made of a piece of board sup­ wild duck feathers. ported by two pins underneath driven Underneath the bed, a boxful of into holes bored in the house logs. canned fruits, one to hold dirty clothes Upon this shelf are two buckets with (most of my wardrobe), one containing water. (I believe in water as a cleanser my carpenter tools (what few I have), and purifier as well as being quite another of nails, a can of coal oil, a good about cooking.) An old fashioned basin to feed my cat out of and a pair peweter cup hangs just above on a of overshoes. nail. About one third of the distance Over .my bed, on the south wall of from the cupboard to the opposite my den and well up towards my wall, about three and one half feet chamber floor. is another shell, similar from the floor is a hole cut through the to my water bucket shelf, only larger, walls two and one baH feet long by containing clean woolen, my best fourteen inches high with an empty (only) bat, a mosquito bar (not used flour sack nailed over the outside; this this time of year) and several is my East window. newspapers that I have read. The log forming the window casing From my wardrobe, along the wall is a very nice place to keep my lamp, towards the southwest corner of the two empty cigar boxes (I don't use shanty on numerous nails driven, pen­ cigars, though I find the boxes con­ dant upon them several articles of venient) containing thread, beeswax, wear that never get washed, my great thimbles. shot, caps, matches, etc., coat, best trousers, & etc. etc. Still nearer the southern wall and Resting on the floor between the just under the joice is an empty boot foot of the bed and the west wall is my box nailed with the bottom against the wooden trunk containing my am­ wall, in this box (open at the front) are munition in reserve, many old letters, several books, among them Greeleu's new clothes (not many of the last) and Conflict, "Grant & Sherman, Their other odds and ends that somehow or Generals & Campaigns." "General other will accumulate around a Laws of Oregon", " Welles Leawyn", bachelor ranch, a sugar barrel hall full " Davis' Algebra," " Parker's Philoso­ of sugar, molasses keg with a gallon or phy," " Inquire Within," "Guide to t\vo of golden syrup in it, a nail ke.g Public Business." "Hooker's illustrated with a lot of nails in it and a pair of NL Hist.," and the " Arabian Nights," moccasins on top of it; a box con- 4 taining two partly filled sacks of salt, devoted to holding my wood. coarse and fine, a sack with a few The side of the wall above my beans in it. several smaU sacks of gar­ woodpile is ornamented ..\ith a powder den seeds, two sacks of barley. one of hom, a saw and a shaving knife. them nearly empty, the last named my My chamber floor is composed of hay feed (seed). Midway between the split ptmcheons, four feet ten inches in South West corner and the North length, just the distance between the West corner stands my door, wide center of the center joice, it extends open. behind it upon a stock stuck in from the South End of the house. two between the logs hangs a pair of spurs; thirds of the way to the North End above them by a rope tied round one where it abruptly terminates leaving of the joice, a part of a shoulder of the chamber the very handy repository pork is hanging. of all kinds of traps, ropes. pack sad­ My door is of open work, made of dles. flour. cans of lard. old boots, a boards with pieces nailed crosswise, few tools. my wooden wash board. and has cracks between the boards and the place where I put my broom large enough to let the wind through when in a state of repose. quite freely; it is hung with cast iron There are two or three places for bolts, has a wooden catch with a guns. made by driving pins into the string tied to it and passing through a joice near the North Side of the house, small hole above the latch to the out­ and one of those places is occupied by side and a small piece of wood tied to a large double barreled shotgun. In the end of the string to keep it outside the cracks of the wall are sticking the door and handy to pull on. A many little things not worthy of men­ staple driven through the door casing tion , and hanging on nails are other near the outer edge, with a short chain articles including two housewives, (so 'f\ith a link at the end fitting the staple they are called) these are not the kind in the door when shut. can be secured of housewives I should prefer, but are with a padlock and keep out the very handy about the house. The out­ curious crowd. side walls are ornamented with pegs in Between the door and the North places containing saddle. barnes and West comer of the house, and very other implements of ranching. near the door is another window South of the house about twelve or similar to the first, except that it fifteen steps is a spring of pure water. reaches down nearer the floor. is not ice cold nor milk warm. but just nearly three times as large, and has a about halfway between the two in rough board casing. A narrow place temperature. To the East and the between the casing of the door and the South is a field o£ about 20 acres, con­ window casing has a few little shelves taining. besides the twelve acres of where are whet stones. gloves. bottles land plowed, and the eight acres un­ of oil, and other indispensibles. Un­ plowed. a log stable, with a small loft derneath the window is a wash stand containing oats in the sheaf, a wagon almost the exact counterpa.rt of the shed on the East Side of it and a small water shelf; an empty sardine box hay stack just near enough to be easily (empty as regards the former occu­ transfered to the stable loft when pants) contains the soap. To the right of required. A root house built of double the window hangs a small looking walls of logs and an interveneing space glass, two towels and a comb. The of two feet between the walls filled corner to the left of the fireplace is with dirt, roofed over Mth boards 5 first, straw next and dirt afterwards, the to overflow all but a few acres of it. floor of earth about two feet lower The upper spring near where my than the ground outside. in it about ca tie stands is ju t where the hill twenty bushels of potatoes (my own ridge terminates in a gently sloping raising) and two hundred pounds of lawn facing the river. The hills behind apples brought from Lhe vaUey. a plow the house are covered in places with and a few other farming tools. an old juniper tree . which ma:.es excellent hay shed empty now. but very handy firewood; there is also quite a heavy for stock to go under when it storms growth of sagebrush in places and and a stack of about twenty tons of through it, as well as where it does not hay outside. grow is the mo t luxuriant bunch grass Along the river at the East Side of I ever saw. The flat land are covered my place are two ricks of hay, one of with a great variety of native grasses. twelve tons, another of forty. Link prominent among which is tl1e rye River (Klamath River-- Editor), so gra s: this frequently grows from called is about two hundred yards in seven to nine feet high so that a man width here, and about twenty feet in riding on horseback is completely hid­ depth, running at the rate of about den by it where it is thick upon the half a mile per hour. The place where ground. I live is on the West Side of the river. A fine variety of wild clover grows it is a valley lying between the breaks abundant near where there are springs or foothills of the Cascade Mountains, and a native blue joint is also quite and sloping from them to the lower plentifuL There are no meadows of KJamath Basin. This valley propper is tame grass yet and everybody depends about twelve miles long and from one upon the natural grass for grazing and fourth of a mile to two miles wide. It feeding all their stock. Some idea of is divided into several small vallies bv the grazing qualities of this valley can spurs of the hills running nearly to th~ be gained by taking into consideration river or marsh for in some place the tile fact that there are nearly eight river run out into the basin leaving a hundred bead of cattle and one hun­ marsh on either side, but it generally dred horses owned and kept by per­ bounds the West Side of the marsh. sons residing here. besides the My ranch is located near the center thou ands of cattle. sheep and horses of one of the largest small vallies grazed by droves in passing through where the spurs of the hills (P .S. here. With all this amount of stock Direct to Ashland Mills, Ore. O.A. here, and the grazing in droves in Stearns.) continue in the form of a passing through. the grass upon the slightly elevated succession of knolls hills eems nearly as abundant as ever; on a continuous lumpy ridge to the and we do not think of feeding unless river. These knolls are elevated from the snow fails a foot deep over the the ground on eitl,er side and from ground. them burst mall springs flowing some This valley i but one among many upon one side and some upon the in tllis great basin. and though the other making the lower land on either first to commence settling up is by no side from the hills to the river a nice means the only one that is becomming greensward. This is my meadow; in­ peopled with industrious pioneers. I fact my claim is nearly all natural suppose if I want to say that there are meadow. the remainder being so already more than three hundred situated that the water could be made people in this country when I was the 6 ~:~econd one, I would not exagerate. bring back with me. my visit would We expect to get a postal route fail in its greatest object. established through here in the Spring I am not disposed to grumble at the and before three years roll around the decrees of fate, but, I would like to be steam engine's whistle "ill echoe over foot loose for a few months. and try the hill and the valley, ''o'er marsh and baffle the old fellow for once. I and lake. through brush and brake.·· have tried hatching until I am satisfied II it were not for such things din1ly that I was never cut out for one and to seen through the future. I should not submit to what is unnatural is not part now be here for to say that I have of the progran1m I have laid down for been lonesome and disheartened at myself. times is to say but ljttle of what I Last May I went out prospecting in really felt. the John Day colmtry. myself and (Three post offices, Linkville. companion were gone about thirty two Yainax and Langell's Valley were days. traveled over 700 miles, over established, or at least authorized on some horrible deserts. being \vithout December 11, 1871. AU lay east of the water for nearly three days at one Cascade Mountains in what was then time. Saw some of the wildest country Jackson County. later Lake and now and grandest scenery in the world I Klamath. Silas Kilgore. history tells expect. Would give you an account of us, received the first mail contract to the trip but have invited two of my begin July l. 1872 from Ashland to bachelor friends (probably Dennis Lake City in Surprise Valley, extreme Crawley and H.M. Thatcher -­ Northeastern California. Other infor­ The Editor) to take dinner with me. mation however, informs us that as and think it time to go to work getting early as February 3, 1872 O.A. Stearns it as they are liable to come at any and William Angle were granted a tinle. special contract to carry the mail for I have made some pies. have some one year from the 1st of July. once a canned fruit, light bread. coffee, fried week over the route from Ashland. via mush. fried pork, mashed potatoes. Link River and LangelJ's Valley to molasses sauce mixed and intend to Lake City. Furthermore it was not un­ make a duff. This is a pudding com­ til May 3, 1903 that the first steam posed of a great variety of fruit. the railroad entered Klamath County at more the better, boiled from one hour Pokegama, and not until May 20, to two hours accordjng to size, and 1909 that the first train entered eaten with a prepared sauce. Won't Klamath Falls from Weed, California. you feel releived when I go to gitting --The Editorl dinner? To a man of my social nature, a Good bye. Respectfully yours lover of busy active life, this O.A. Stearns. pioneering is sometimes very discourageing and irksome. (Additional early hardshjps and dif­ I should like above all things to go ficulties encountered in pioneering the back to Illinois on a visit, to see the Klamath Country have been recorded changes and improvements that have by O.A. Stearns in a narrative written taken place since my childhood. I do in 1922 and quoted in part by Rachel not know whether it would make me Applegate Good in the History of more contented or not; but if I rud not Klamath County, 1941 -- The succeed in. getting me a partner to Editor.) 7 Following is the narra6ve as Modoc Indian about a quarter of a quoted: mile away who were engaged in " Lew Colver finally concluded he digging roots lor the squaws werel; the would join with us to locate at a point Indians were loafing and hunting a lit­ on the trail by wruch we had marched tle. I had no shelter of any kind but in coming to the Fort. a spring with a bujlt my blanket bed by my camp fire. nice piece of meadow and plow land and after supper went to bed and to beside it that we regarded as a sleep. when the mosquitoes would let desirable place to live. O.T. Brown. me. and wakened only when the who, with his wife (the first white coyotes came around to serenade me. woman resident) and son, went from B~t I worked earlv and late and Gassburg. (Phoenix, Jackson Countyl despite the loss of e~erv third dav in to Fort Klamath about the time our visiting the grindstone ·at Brown :s. I company did. and who had been had quite a start in haymaking when engaged in furnishing the garrison Lou is came out with a wagon and with beef during the time we were more provisions and tools. including a there, concluded that he. too. would grindstone. While the team and wagon locate at the east foot of the mountains was there. we hauled up a load of on what was called bv the Indians wood and some poles to build a pen in 'We-Tass Creek.· (Actu~lly named by which we could sleep and keep our Jesse Applegate about 1869 and called provisions. We had our camp fire out­ by him 'Wet Ass Creek.' -- The side. H enry Roberts carne out with Editor) about eleven miles below Louis and took Jack and Barney with where we expected to locate. Uncle the wagon back to the valley. leaving Sam Colver had been very anxious for the two of us to finish haying. This Louis to join with me in taking up the accomplished. we went to work getting ranch and persuaded us to take his our house logs hewed. up in the tim­ herd of horses, some fifty head, ou her. Before we had the logs ready. we shares. Uncle Sam and I took the hor­ had a severe two days' rain. and. as ses out there within two weeks after we only had a few tules thrown on top we were mustered out, and after put­ of our pen for shade. it sifted the rain ting the horses across the river from through on our bed. It was so cold Brown's, who had built himself a and damp we could only keep warm cabin and moved his family and stock by remaining in bed. This we had to there before we were moved out, I was do for two days and nights. as there left out on the ranch alone. except for was too much wind to allow us to a dog. and with my scythe went to build a fire. and only by remaining in­ mowing grass. as it was late and we side our wet blankets could we retain needs must hurry to get enough hay any warmth. Louis had a little. wooly up to ·winter the horses. l was there fiste he called 'Jeff.· who was always working aloue for two weeks before trying to crawl into Louis's side of the Louis came out. I had no grindstone. bed nights. We used him to our ad­ and after two days' mowing my scythe vantage and his eminent satisfaction to was too dull to cut any more. so I keep our feet warm during the entire used to walk II miles to Mr. Brown's time of the storm. Our logs cut. we and grind my scythe. generally staying borrowed a team and wagon from all night and having two good square Brown to haul our hay and logs. as meals each time. The only company I well as a few poles to build a corral had was a camp of Klamath and and a stable; then we went with 8 Brown to the valley where we pur­ December and, as we could do little in chased a wagon, loaded it with the way of improving during the provisions, and getting Jack and Bar­ prevalence of snow, Louis and I con­ ney and a big team of horses from my cluded to go over to the valley to father, we started back with Mr. spend the holidays, and some little Brown, who had a six-horse team and time besides, leaving Hutch and wagon. It took us several days to Dennis to look after and feed the hor­ make the return trip, as there were ses. Accordingly, on December lB, in four different places on the mountain a heavy snow storm, we started out where we had to unload our wagons and through snow from eighteen in­ and pack the contents on the back of ches to over two feet deep we crossed our team to the top of the hill, when it the mountain and spent a very delight­ required the entire strength of the ful four weeks visiting and attending team to pull the empty wagons to the parties, the first of any consequence summit. But as there is an ending to since we first went east of the moun­ all trials, so, too, our trip ended tains to Fort Klamath. The 24th day without further serious mishap, and of January, we started on the return our winter's supply was safely housed. home, accompanied by Charley Root Our cabin was up and covered, a and H.M. Thatcher, a school teacher, fireplace built, and a corral and pole whom Dennis had persuaded to go in­ stable with a shake roof over our hay to partnership with him, Thatcher to also constructed. Some time in late furnish the money in the shape of $50 November, Uncle Sam Colver came per month while Dennis was to do the out to our house, bringing with him a work on land which Dennis was to big fellow who claimed to be a horse take up and improve for them jointly. breaker, who was broke and wanted a Thatcher had two pack horses loaded winter's job, and Uncle Sam thought it down with provisions. Louis and I had would be a good scheme to give him a each a pack horse and Charley Root job breaking some of his big geldings, another. As the snow had piled up so Louis and I could have teams to very deep on the mountains and no work. This man's name was Hutchins; one bad been over the emigrant road we always called him Hutch, for short. to break the trail since Louis and I Soon after Hutch came out, Dennis came over in December, we were for­ Crawley came out with a spike team ced to go over the Siskiyou and consisting of two more or less crippled around by way of the Old Indian Trail mules and a blind horse. He had been up the Klamath. It took us well into several years in the insane asylum, the night of the third day to get to and, having come out to find that his Brown's. The snow was near four feet former partner, Charles Boxley, had deep and the only way we could keep gotten away with his property up at the trail after it became dark was for Forty-nine Diggings, on the strength one of us to walk ahead and feel the of old acquaintanceship with Uncle trail with our feet, as the government Sam he came out to locate near him. expressman from the Fort went over expecting to partake of our hospitality both ways every week, so that there to the extent of living in our house, was a packed track underneath the using our stable and feeding our hay freshly fallen snow. We came within to his team. This he did, until near sight of the lights of Brown's house spring when he got a cabin built about just as they extinguished them to go to two miles away. Winter set in early in bed, about ten o'clock p.m., and a 9 hall hour later we reached the house the hearth while the floor was crowded and routed them up again. and by the with sleeping forms wrapped in their time our animals were attended to blankets. I did not serve a verv Mrs. Brown had a good hot meal elaborate meal. but a hearty one. such ready for us. Next day we got home as all of us frontiersmen were used to. and !Otmd the snow two feet deep and This is one of the many instances to so fine and dry that it would not pack illustrate how the pion~er opened up into a trail. The wood was about all the country. We helped Dennis build gone and no sled nor wagon to haul his house early in March. and he was more on, so it became imperative that ready to move in by the time grass was we get some material down lrom the starting. He moved away one day. timber two miles away and construct a when the rest were awav. and took sled. The only cours~ was for four or many of our provisions with him.·· five of us to walk to the woods, (Mr. Stearns was employed at breaking a trail, and with ropes draw Klamath Agency several months in the the necessary timbers down to the Summer and Fall of 1868. went to the cabin. This we finally accomplished, family home in •'the valley'" for the and. as it was terribly cold. we had to holidays and did not return to the do all the work in the cabin in front o! ranch until the Spring of 1869. During the fireplace. Hutch was a pretty good this time. his younger partner gave up carpenter and understood sledmaking. ranching and turned over his interest and with the help of as many of the to his father. "Uncle Sam Colver. others as could get at the work it was -The Eclitor). only a few days when we had two pair of bob sleds ready for use. Dennis " Having long realized the necessity took one set to use hauling logs for his of there being a county road from the cabin; we used one set to break colts valley over the mountains so that the by and haul fire wood; and while the country would be more accessible. as mercury must have been way down an inducement to settle the country below zero for weeks and our cabin up. I drew up a petition to the cotmty was none too well chinked up. we court of Jackson County. and, after managed to keep from freezing. Our securing practically every settler's only way to cook was by the open signature east of the mOtmtains, I fireplace; consequently we cooked and went over to Emigrant Creek, where ate at the same table, aiming to use Dr. Colwell had established himself at about equally from each store in the Soda Springs and was trying to proportion to the numbers of each monopolize all the lands along the group. There were six of us cooking, creek as a stock ranch but was eating, and sleeping in the 10 x 12 troubled by seven settlers below him. (previously stated as 14 x 16 --The The Doctor would sign the petition if Editor) cabin. four of us sleeping in it called for the road to be laid out bunks. two on the floor. and through the center of the narrow creek sometimes we would have to keep bottom, as that. he thought, would travelers who could not reach the ferry render it impossible for the settlers to at Linkville. I remember one night, remain. The settlers would sign only if when a pack train of mules got there it would follow the creek, leaving most late on a stormy night and we had to of the land for occupancy and tillage. put up the four men and about thirty I had hard work to get both parties to mules. I cooked breakfast standing on agree to sign, but finally did so by 10 required bond and the order was made. At my solicitation the following men were appointed as viewers: William Songer. Samuel Colver, O.T. Brown; J.S. Howard was the survevor who made the survey, which was d~y accepted, and a subscription was im­ mediately circulated to raise money to open the road, as no public funds were available. A sum of $600 was raised. $400 of which was subscribed east of the mountains. where the entire voting population was but 30. Uncle Sam and my father were the only subscribers to the fund below Ashland. Many in Ashland were opposed to the road. as they were in favor of putting a land grant road through by way of Dead Indian. Nearly half the subscription raised in Ashland was paid in provisions by the stores, which were charged at exorbitant prices. Uncle Sam Colver volunteered to take charge Samuel Colver, 1815-1891 , resident of Rogue of the work. raised a lot of laborers River Valley, father of Lewellyn Colver. first and commenced early in the Spring of partner of O.A. Stearns In the loHer's 1869 at the Songer place on the stage homestead venture, and later partner himself. road. and by early fall had it opened Samuel Colver hod charge of building the 1868 clear through to the Klamath Valley. Southern Oregon Wogan Road which replaced While it could not be expected that the Applegate Trail between the Klamath and such a small sum of money would Rogue River Vollies. build near fifty miles of mountain road. it remains a fact that teams of assuring them that I would have good two horses could haul over it a full ton honest men put in as viewers who without having to unload and pack up would study the best interests of those the steep places as formerly. In fact Jiving along the road. When I presen­ Uncle Sam did more actual road work ted the petition, the court debated a with that $600 than has ever been long time whether the country across done at any time since with ten times the mountains was of sufficient impor­ that sum. The building of that road tance to justify the expense of the sur­ was the beginning of the development vey and location. and finally agreed of the great inland empire consisting that if the petitioners, or two of them, of what is now Klamath and Lake would give $1,000 in bonds to reim­ Counties in Oregon. and Surprise. Hot burse the county in case of an adverse Springs, and Big Valleys in California. report of the vi~we rs , they would order because it was their nearest and only the survey. Accordingly Captain route over which they got their sup­ Sprague and myself executed the plies for many years.··

11 Mer!!anser IIIIJIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIJIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII!IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIffi!illlllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll

Linkville, now Klamath Falls. was southwest corner of Coho's City Cen­ founded by George Nurse who arrived ter Lodge parking area. with a small stock of merchandise On May 1st. 1867 Nurse applied from his sutler's store at Fort ''for a License to establish a ferry on Klamath. The date was March 12. Link River on the Route or Trail from 1867 as near as can now be deter­ Fort Klamath to Henley. Siskiyou mined. Shortly thereafter he built a County. California.'' The permit smaiJ store building north of present seems to have been granted at the Main Street and east of the Link June term of the Jackson County River bridge, at approximately the Court. When the ferry began 12 operation, before or after the permit twenty years later, with the issuance of was granted, is unknown. The ferry a deed to John Gleim by the ad­ seems to have been operated until ministrator of the Wendolen Nus about July lst, 1869 when it was estate, J.N.T. Miller. (To locate and replaced by a toll bridge also built and see this tract of land today, turn South operated by George Nurse. off South Sixth Street in Klamath About two and one hal£ miles below Falls onto Washburn Way. Follow this location, Wendolen Nus had that to the Old Midland Road. Then already settled on the south or east turn right on that road, cross the bank (left) of Klamath River on what Great Northern Railroad tracks and later became the old John Gleim continue to the Alturas branch of the place. Exactly where or when Nus first Southern Pacific Railroad track. Halt settled there is unknown. However, there as you are near the northwestern he was in the neighborhood when corner of the N us tract. It lies mainly George Nurse arrived on the date southwest of the little hill (Water mentioned above. Klamath County Tower Hill) which in turn is southwest Deed R ecords show the following: of the Great Northern yards. The Nus George Pape and Minna, his wife. tract extended to and across the Weed gave a Warrantee Deed to Wendolen branch of the Southern Pacific. The Nus and Chas. Schneider on February sidetrack of Texum near the junction 11. 1871, consideration $1.00, for the of the Alturas and Weed branches of SWY4 of NWY4. Elh of SEY4. and the Southern Pacific is partially on the SW 1,4 of SE Y4, Section 16, Township old tract, further described as lying 39 South, Range 9 East. Next the southwesterly from KLAD Radio State of Oregon issued to W endolen Station. _....:_ Editor) He (Nus) mav Nus on August 3, 1871 for $200.00, a have arrived there in 1866 from th~ State deed for the N lh of NW Vi, John Day, Oregon mining country to SEY4 of N W Y4, and NWY4 of SEY4. take possession of the land tmder some Section 16, Township 39 South. claim as of now unknown. Previously. Range 9 East. Finally the State of in 1858-59 he had wintered cattle in Oregon issued to Charles Schneider. the area west of the present on August 3. 1871 for $200.00 a State Weyerhaeuser Sawmill and on Upper Warrantee Deed to the NE Y4 of Sec­ Klamath Lake some two miles and tion 16. Township 39 South, Range 9 more northwest of the head of Link East. In all the three tracts amounted River. to 480 acres more or less. Then Nus Next. in the spring of 1867. O.A. was killed by the Modoc Indians on Stearns settled on the first homestead the opening day of the Modoc War. in the Klamath Basin about halfway November 29, 1872. His companion at between present Klamath Falls and the time, J oseph Penning, was Keno. This has been described in the severely wounded. being left for dead preceeding pages of this issue of by the Indians. but recovered and Klamath Echoes. later became closely associated with A short time later Wendolen Nus the history of Merganser. and Charles Schneider established a Thereafter, beginning in 1877 this ferry across Klamath River in Section land passed through several hands in­ 17. Township 39 South, Range 9 East. cluding Casper (Charles?) Schneider. then known as Link River. This un­ Paul Breitenstein and Chas. Griffith, dertaking is described by the Jackson­ to end on August 2, 1892. nearly ville Oregon Sentinel of February 12. 13 A few rocks , all that remains of the old Merga nser bridge aero$$ the Klamath River. lm· mediately south of the Klamath lumber Company sawmill. Devere Helfrich Photo

1810. "Saturday - County Court. A Valley. was inaugurated at this time. considerable amount of important Sometime shortly after this date. business was transacted at this week ·s possibly immedia.tely before the term of County Court. Among other Modoc War of 1872-73 the ferry was things viewers were appointed, for replaced by a bridge. exactly when, or laying out a county road from by whom is unknown at the present Crawley"s Ranch (Somewhere in the time although it perhaps was John neighborhood of the O.A. Stearns Gleim. Search of Jackson Countv homestead halfway between Klamath records might reveal the correct dat~ Falls and Keno -- Editorl to of construction of this bridge. Bloody Point. on the state line, bet· Klamat11 County records do reveal this ween . California and Oregon. The bridge was deeded to Lake County (I n proposed road crosses Link River which this countv was then situated I about 3 miles below the bridge on June 6. 1877. by John Gleim for belonging to George Nourse (Sic l: at $450.00. When it wa~ abandoned is the ferry of William !Sic) N us and unknown. but the piers were for many Charles ·Schneider. for which ferry a years a hazzar d to the boating in· license was also granted at this term. " dustry between Klamath Falls and tht> Again, whether or not this ferry was Keno-Lower Klamath Lake landing . put in operation before the license was Merganser was located but a short granted . is unknown. However. a new distance northwest of the northern or and shorter route between the Rogut> western end o{ this bridge. and like River V allev and Northeastern the chick~n aud the e~g . "itich came California p~ints. chiefl y Surprise first or which was responsible for the 14 other is unknown at present. secured. the second in Klamath Coun­ The best and most comprehensive ty. Mr. Roberts became postmaster. history in the past regarding M ergan­ The new town did not enjoy a ser is that given by The History of mush-room growth, although the store Central Oregon. 1905. and follows: did a fairly good business and " There is onlv one 'dead' town in Merganser became a favorite trading Klamath county·. That is Merganser. point. Mr. Wallace Baldwin. who Onlv the earlier settlers of the county resides at Klamath Falls. visited at a rem.ember the town of Merganser. ~t time during the Modoc War at one time the rival of Linkville. It was Merganser. and has told the writer the second town founded in the countv that at that time the town consisted of and for several years was a place ~f the store of Roberts & Handv. the considerable importance. especiaUy post office. a blacksmith shop a~d the during the Modoc War of 1872 and residence of Joserlh P enning. 1873. The townsite of Merganser was "Following the close of the war the on the west bank of Klamath River. town took on new life and other about two miles below the city of business houses '"'ere established. Klamath Falls, and the town cam~ in­ Joseph Penning laid out a townsite in to existence in 1870. The cause of the 1875. It was surveyed July 1 by E.C. founding of the town in such close Mason. The plat was filed for record proximity to the village of Linkvillr in the clerk ·s office of Lake county was that the proprietors of the older August 3. 1875. The town's business town site did not offer inducements to houses were increased by a harness people to start in business in com­ shop of R obert T. Baldwin. and a petition with lines already established, large hotel built by John Gleim. A and it was impossible Lo secttre lots bridge was cun:slrucled acrn:s:s upon which to conduct a business Klamath River. A little later Paul which would in anv way interfere with Breitenstein began the brewery the few tines ~f business there business in the btUiding which had represented. It was this fact that led to been occupied as a harness shop. Mr. the founding of Merganser by J. Baldwin having moved his business to Roberts and Albert Handy. For a time Linkville. But this rival town was this ne·w town was known as doomed: Linkville was destined to Lakeport, but shortly after the name become the only place of importance of MergansPr was given it. The in the county. The Roberts & Handy naming of the town was brought about store at last secured a site in Linkville in a peculiar manner. Two Scotchmen and moved from Merganser: the named Ennes were one day at the lit­ blacksmith shop elsewhere and the tle town and in the vicinity shot a brewerv closed down. The last merganser duck. The question of a busine~s establishment abandoned the ~ uitable name for the town was being place and the town passed away. ow discussed when one of the Scotchmen it remains only in the memory of suggested ·Mi'rganser. · which was at pioneers who lived in the country prior once adopted. The founding of the to the ·so·s. The bridge which spanned town date::- from UEO. when the first the river was left to rot and fall away. business house was established. a and the last of this was only a few general merchandise store. by 1 .P. years ago torn down when the first Roberts and Albert Handy. F ollowing steamboat was placed in commission a short delay a post office was on the river. the old structure im- 15 peding navigation of the stream." Most of the men connected with the The History of Klamath County, founding of Merganser arrived in the 1941, adds nothing new to the story of Klamath Country between 1869 and Merganser, recording only the 1871 inclusive. When and how they following: "The History of Central first settled on their future home sites Oregon says 'there is only one dead is not presently known. What we do town in Klamath County.' It refers to know is when they received deeds or Merganser, once the rival of Link­ patents to their land, which were ville, as having a bridge, a post office, recorded in Jackson and Lake Coun­ a general merchandise store, a harness ties in which present Klamath County shop. a brewery (but not simultaneous­ was then situated and so remained un­ ly, as these two occupied the same til1882. building successively), and a hotel. There are undoubtedly records not The town was founded in 1870 by J.P. yet consulted that would clear up Roberts and Albert Handy on the west several uncertamttes as to when bank of the Klamath River about various tracts of land were first set­ where the yards of the Kesterson Lum­ tled. claimed or filed upon. These ber Company are today." records are in the State of Oregon ar· Oregon Geographic Names (Second chives at Salem, and the Case File printing, 1944) has the following to Records in the Department of In­ say: "Merganser is the name of a town terior. Washington, D.C. Time and that lived for a decade then passed in­ cost has prevented such research. to limbo. The place was established Our history of Merganser as derived about 1870 by J.P. Roberts and from records now available follows: Albert Handy to compete with the 1870: As recorded by The History of nearby village of Linkville. now Central Oregon, a general store was Klamath Falls. It was situated about established by John P. Roberts and two miles below Klamath Falls, on the Albert Handy sometime during this west bank of Klamath River and was year on a site later to become the town first called Lakeport. The name was of Merganser. soon changed to Merganser because of June 20, 1872. A post office of some incident connected with the "Klamath," was established in shooting of a merganser duck in the Jackson County with Albert Handy as vicinity. The town petered out about postmaster. This post office was un­ 1880. For a short history of this place. doubtedly in the Handy and Roberts see Illustrated History of Central store which seems to have been located Oregon, page 983." ·on or verv near Number One Green, Using the above History of Central of the Re~mes Golf & Country Club. Oregon, 1905, which contains a num­ Since Handy and Roberts arrived in ber of mistakes, as a foundation, we 1870 to start a general store sup­ have compiled a history of Merganser posedly on land then claimed by them, and immediate adjoining territory. the southeast corner of the SW 1;4 of This latter history makes use of SWI;4, Section 8, Township 39 South. Klamath County Deed Records, ex­ Range 9 East, it is presumed that the cerpts from the Ashland Tidings, post office would be located in this United States Postal Records from the building. Also their's was tl1e fourth National Archives, and a few short post office in Klamath Country, not reminiscences of old timers, long since the second, as Linkville, Langell's passed away. Valley and Yainax preceeded it, all 16 being established on November 11, part read, "* * * known as Handy & 1871. Roberts, all that portion of blocks 1 March 13, 1873. The State Board of and 3 in the town of Lakeport not Commissioners, by State Swamp Land already the property of said firm. " Certificate #117 sold to J .N.T. Miller October 24, 1874. Lake County was a narrow strip of swamp land ad­ created out of Jackson County with joining the Link or Klamath River's Linkville being named the County right hand bank between present Seat. This may be one of the factors Klamath View Auto Camp and the that contributed to Linkville outstrip­ U.S. Highway #97 Bridge across ping Merganser in the very beginning. Klamath River above Weyerhaeuser Another factor was that in the fall of Lumber Company sawmill. This land 1872 the United States Land Office was not connected with the townsite of was located at Linkville and George Merganser, but a wagon road from the Nurse was appointed receiver but did northwest end of the old Nus ferry not qualify. Actually the receiver and and later Gleim bridge led north­ register who opened the office were westerly across it to the townsite and George W. Conn and Judson S. beyond to Linkville and Whittle's Small. Ferry (Kenol and on to Yreka and December 15, 1874. The post office Ashland. of Lakeport was then listed as being in April 9, 1873. The name of the post Lake County with John P. Roberts office "Klamath" was changed to becoming the postmaster. Probably "Lakeport," why, we do not know, there was no change in the location of unless it was because Lower Klamath the post office, it remaining in the Lake, as an early General Land Office Handy & Roberts store building. survey map indicates, extended as far It was undoubtedly at about this upstream as present Link River tin1e that the firm of Handy and Bridge in Klamath Falls. Roberts decided to enlarge their April 2, 1874. The .State of Oregon business by establishing a store io deeded 314.9 acres to Joseph Penning, Bonanza, as indicated by an article in who had arrived in 1869. This land the Ashland Tidings of August 24, adjoined the J. N.T. Miller strip on 1876 by J.M. Sutton, the editor who the north and was later to contain visited Bonanza. He reported the store most of what was to become the town­ as being in operation at that time. The site of Merganser. When filed upon is date Roberts took over as postmaster unknown. of Lakeport would therefore seem to April 2, 1874. Evidently as soon as be about the time that Handy removed Joseph Penning received title to his to Bonanza to erect a building there. land, he sold a small portion to Albert This move perhaps is the reason for Handy and John P. Roberts to com­ changing postmasters, since Handy plete title to land probably adjoining was never thereafter located in that upon which their store had been Merganser. erected. This land lies immediately to May 19, 1875. The post office name the south of the southeast corner of of "Lakeport" was chang( l to Reames Golf & Country Club. Fur­ "Merganser." At that time there was a ther. it lies immediately to the north of Lake City post office in Surprise the old Kesterson Lumber mill, now Valley. Modoc County, California also owned by the Klamath Lumber Com­ on the same mail route as that serving pany. The description of the land in Lakeport which would have caused no 17 .S.c. 8

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Me r-9a n .s e r, E)l.4e1- 'opy ~"f G;.C. M4.son .survey ~u/7 1, IB7S With adJeJ 1~14 / cksu-rrr,'Q, s "r the EJi fO r.

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18 little confusion. Thi mu ~ t havt> been street. 12 rod aero Bridge street. 22 at the time the merganser duck tory rods to a street IThi "street .. seems originated. later to ha\e become known as "First August 3. 1875. On this date Joseph Street.·· -- Editor I. 26 rods across Penning filed the townsite of Mergan- tbe street, 34 rods to the West corner ser in Lake County records. However. of Block 3. South 50° East. 8 rods to from information previously recorded Main. North 40° East 19 rods along it wou ld appear that the townsite had Main to point of beginning.·· The plat been Laid out or at least recognized for is marked " Filed. August 3. 1875 by some time. In this re pect it quite Joseph Penning." However. there is a closely follows the pattern of the separate note in pencil which states. establishment of the Linkville townsite "Rec. for Record. October 16. 1876." it close neighbor. two miles upstream. It therefore follow that legall). The History of Central Oregon states Merganser may have been ahead of that George Nurse soon after settling Linkville as the first town in what on Link River "platted the site and later became Klamath County. placed lots on the 'market.' This early At about this time. October 6. 1875 platting, however. was very informal another tract of land appears in the of­ and never recorded. Later. in 1878. ficial Deed Records of Klamath Coun­ the townsite was replatted and recor- ty. It lies south o£ U.S. H ighway #97 ded; the original plat was declared Bridge aero s Klamath River and is void ... Further, it is known that Pen- split by the highway for better than ning had a house at Mergan er. and one half mile as it proceeds southward. ince we have been unable to find any It was patented by the United States record of Block 2 tonly three blocks on the above date to James Tobin were plattedl in any deed exchanges. it another early day arrival who by 1875 is assumed that Penning's house was had accumulated property of con­ located thereon. In passing. it is in- siderable value. Tobin seems to have teresting to note that the townsite of lived on the north side of Klamath Merganser has never been vacated River at a small spring immediately legally. although it has passed out of west of the north end of this bridge existance on later legal descri ptions. across the Klamath. The spring is On the original map in the Klamath marked by a tall poplar tree. still County Clerk's files, a copy of which standing. but now urrounded by the i printed elsewhere in this book. a Weyerhaeuser log torage site. This penciled note has been made by some tract however was not deeded to Tobin unknown person stating that the town- until October 23. 1882 and then by site was never vacated. Joseph Penning. T he original townsite was surveyed It was described as follows: " Begin- and dated such on July l. 1875. The ning 20 rods due North of the south­ legal description is as follows: ''Com- west corner of said lot (Lot l. Sec. 18. mencing JA mile East of the Southwest T. 39 S .. R. 9 E. -- Editorl. run­ corner Section 8. Township 39 outh. ning 20 rods due south to said corner. Range 9 East. Thence orth 40° thence due east 23 rods more or less to East. 3 rods to Bridge street. 7 rods low water to banks of Klamath or aero Bridge street. 15 rod to the Link River. thence along bank in a Ea t corner block 2. North 50° West. northerly direction 10 rods due North 8 rods to the orth corner of block 2. of line inter ecting river thence in a South 40° West. 8 rods to Bridge direct line to place of beginning, 2 19 acres more or less." Robert T. Baldwin. one time November 8. 1875. The State of businessman of M erganser. Oregon deeded the S W ~ of SW !k Charles I. R o be rts was co nnected Section 8. T ownship 39 South. Range with the hardware business in 9 East. to Handy and R oberts. It is Klamath Falls for over 40 years. The only surmise. but they had probably business was known from time to time settled, preempted . squatted or filed as Roberts and Hanks: Roberts and on this land a number of years Harvey; Roberts and Peak; and previously since they are supposed to finally as Roberts Hardware. The have founded their general merchan­ tore was burned out in the E vans dise store in l 870. Part of M erganser Apartment fire in Febn 1ary. 1947. townsite is platted as lying in the ex­ J un e 27. 1876. The Merganser post treme southea tern corner of this Sec­ office was discontinued. but why is tion 8. unknown unless it wa for lack of January 7. 1876. Lakeview super­ revenue taken in. ceeded Linkville as the County Seat of United States postal records indicate Lake County by election. that the tota l revenue of the post office Not many people were h om in of " Klamath-Lakeport" up to Sep­ Merganser because of its short life and tember 30, 1873 was $12.00, and that small population. Perhaps only one. for nearby Linkville tl1e arne. There Charles Innes Roberts, the son of would appear to be a mistake because John P. Roberts. He was born in the same figure for both offices does M erganser on January 27, 1876. His not seem probable. ext, the revenue mother. Mr . J ohn P. (Harriet Bald­ for the " Lakeport-Merganser" post of­ win) Roberts was the daughter of fice for the next two year up to Sep-

Members of the old Klomoth Athletic Club ond their equipment In the Houston Opero House. Man at left reclining on floor is Charles I. Roberts, the only k nown person to have been born In the town of Merganser. Moude Baldwin Photo

20 tember 30. 1875 was $16.34. while may have been shade trees for the that of Linkville was $144.07. Finally building. Another site may have been the revenue of Merganser post office in front of the Klamath Lumber Com­ for the two years ending September pany office building where a well was 30, 1877 was $13.80. while that of once located. An old timer once poin­ Linkville was $329.48. ted out the caved-in remains to this August 27. 1876. Two months alter writer years ago. The third site could being closed, Merganser post office have been where the caretaker's shop was reestablished with John P. Roberts stands and will be explained later -­ reappointed postmaster. Editor). October 7. 1876. AshJand Tidings: April 21. .. Merganser notes of April .. J.P. Roberts sent the editor a box of 18. John Pearson of Jacksonville will Early Rose potatoes which he raised take possession of the hotel and move on his island (Baldwin I sland -­ his family here. Editor l near the store, two or three .. Corles MerriLL working for Handy miles from Linkville. Four potatoes and Roberts who are doing extensive weighed six pounds." mercantile business. ·• In the past. history has left us April 28. ..Merganser. James highly confused as to just when some Woodson arrived here vesterdav with of the businesses of Merganser began a load of freight." . · or ended. Now. we are able to clear May 5. " Merganser notes: Hotel to thls situation to some extent by ex­ be finest in Klamath basin. Ashland tracts from the Ash land Tidings of editor please send Tidings to Mergan­ 1877 which follow: ser. not to Link ville post office.,. Jamtary 27. "J.P. Roberts is May 19. "Merganser. Heavy rain. building a needed blacksmith shop at good crops. John Pearson arrived with Merganser.·· (Where the blacksmith a load of flour for Handy and Roberts. shop was located or who ran it James Woodson passed through on remains unknown-- Editor). return from Captain Ferree's. He has April 21. .. Tozer and Daley. car­ contract to furnish hay and grain for penters of Ashland are erecting a hotel Garret & Ferree stage I ine ***. " (In Merganser -- Editorl. The Klamath County Deed Records blacksmith shop is ready. We expect record that on June 6. 1877 John Merganser will be the principal town Gleim who arrived in 1871, deeded to in eastern Oregon. The road and Lake county for $450.00 "*** a bridge have been repaired. Much the bridge across the north arm of Little shortest and direct route of all to the Klamath Lake commonly known as east and southern settlements of Lake Klamath River and situated in Section county. Signed, Nick." (There are at 17. T. 39 S .. R. 9 E .. , least three possible sites for the hotel. Previously on August 23. 1875 two of which might not have been in George Nurse gave a Warrantee Deed the townsite at all. One is on the littJe to Lake County for "*** the bridge hummock in the Reames GoU and across Link River'' for $50.00. Much Country Club near Number One later, on April l, 1881 Robert and Green. and Number Two Tee. This Matilda Whittle deeded to Lake seems to have been the site of the County "*** the bridge across oldest Whiteline house which may Klamath River known as 'Whittle have been the hotel remodeled. There Bridge' for $275.;;." are still eight old trees standing which June 28. Ashland Tidings. "O.C. 21 Looking south across Klamath River toward the south approach of the Merganser Bridge, op· poslte Klamath Lumber Company sawmill. Devere Helfrich Photo

Applegate will orate at the Fourth July 13: '·Merganser report on the celebration at Merganser. Fourth celebration: ''Fourth of July plans for Mergan· Music bv the band ser. L.B. Applegate. Chairman. C.H. Prayer _:__ L.S. Dyar Dyar, Sec., General arrangements. Music by the band J.P. Roberts. H.M. Thatcher. Henry Declaration of Indepen­ Conn. John Gleim. James Tobin. dence-- C.H. Dyar W.L. Baker. Dennis Small, John Oration -- O.C. Applegate Schallock. Stephen Stukel. Jacob Music by the band Bales. Wm. H . Roberts. Toasts. picy and patriotic "To secure orator. etc: O.A. Steam . Dinner Henry Conn. E. Emmitt. Games and racing "On Music: H.M. Thatcher. Mr. Parlor music - - Miss Griffin, C.H. Dyar. D.J. Ferree. Corpe and Kate Darwin Jacob Thompson. I.D. Applegate. Ball at the Hotel.·· Robert Scott. September 14. Ashland Tidings. ''On finance: I.D. Applegate, "We call attention to Handy and George Conn. L.B. Applegate. Dennis Roberts of Bonanza and Merganser Small, Agent L.S. Dyar. Wm. Ro­ who are enterprising merchantmen berts, J.T. Forbes, C.H. Dyar, John *** .. Gleim . J.P. Roberts. Thomas September 21. "Merganser mail Weeden. George urse. now included on route. Yreka to " Basket Dinner: No intoxicating Linkville by order of P ost Master Drinks: Good music at the Merganser General." hotel in the evening ... September 21. ''Merganser items: 22 Several loads of freight came from near the site of the present Budget Redding. A report has been received Host Motel office) from James K. that one of the thieves who stole hor­ Leabo for $500.00. This price would ses from John Gleim and Wm. For­ indicate some sort of building on the sythe has been killed.·· lot at the time. The property had been February 26. 1878. The official plat sold to Leabo by members of the of Linkville was filed by George NursE> Schallock family on October 19, 1878 before J. W. Hamaker, Notary Public. for $350.00. They in turn had pur­ .. It was recorded January 27, 1879 with chased the property from George Nurse R .B. Hatton. Lake County Clerk for $100.00 on April 30. 1878. Finally, located at Lakeview. this same property was sold on May 3, 1878. Ashland Tidings September 4. 1882 by Roberts to J ohn reported that ''J udge Handy and J.P. Gleim for $900.00. Roberts have moved their tock of Probably ometime in the 1879-1881 merchandise at M erganser to Bonan­ period Albert Handy passed away. za." Further. according to the because on December 11, 1882 his biography of H arriett Roberts given in heirs deeded part at least of his the Klamath Evening Herald of property to J ohn P. and Hariett December 16. 1915, the Roberts Roberts. family moved to Bonanza. living there October 3, 1879. The AsWand for a time before returning to Linkville Tidings wrote that Robert T . Bald­ to live permanently. win was moving from Merganser to May 15, 1878. H andy & Roberts Linkville. It was at this time evidently deeded to J ohn Gleim all of Blocks 1 that Baldwin closed his harness and and 3 (Which included two of the sites Saddle shop in Merganser to reopen it upon which the Gleim hotel may have in Linkville south of Main Street and been constructed -- Editor! in the east of Link River Bridge. SW V4 of SW V4 of Section 8, except a It was also some time in 1879 that lot in the southwest corner of Block 1 Paul and Anna Breitenstein. with (Very near the Number E leven Tee of their son Richard ''Dick'' (born in the Reames Golf and Country Club. Calilornia in 1878) arrived in the upon which the building stood which Klamath Country. Mr. Breitenstein housed the harness shop. black mith started a brewery in Merganser. hop and brewery at different times probably in the building just vacated -- Editor!. by Baldwin. How long Breitenstein September 28. 1818. John Gleim opereated this brewery in Merganser became the postmaster of Merganser in unknown. However. the Ashland with the post office probably being Tidings of May 25. 1883 mentions a transferred to the Gleim Hotel. brewery as " being in operation in already being mentioned as possibly Linkville." This brewery was probably located in one of three different that opened in 1883 by John Adam locations. Uerling, Sr .. grandfather of Wallace May 12. 1879. The post office of Uerling. It was located at the corner Merganser was discontinued. with all of First and Main Streets !The present mail probably transferred to Linkvi lle. Pony P as Motel locationl and may June 6. 1879. On this date Roberts well have been the Merganser brewery and H andy at last succeeded in pur­ of Breitenstein relocated in Linkville. chasing a lot in Linkville. They January 9. 1880. Handy & Roberts bought Lot #2, Block #25 lsituated deeded the southwest corner of Block 23 1 in Mergan er to Paul Breitenstein H ighway Bridge aero Klamath for $250. River. Two small tract were ex· October 17, 1882. Klamath Countv eluded: Merganser. the re idence of was created out of Lake Counh• with Whiteline at that time and the T obin Linkville becoming the county s~ at. tract west of U.S. Highway #97. April 19. 1883. J ohn Gleim deeded To those who some day might want to Breitenstein property now the to pin-point the Whiteline residence location of Klamath Lumber Com­ which may have served previously as pany sawmill and sheds. the Merganser Hotel. we give the May 20. 1884. Paul Breitenstein following portion of the Whiteline Quit deeded the southwest corner of Block Claim Deed to the orthwest Utilities 1 to R.T. Baldwin. which probably is Company: " J une 24. 1926 *** It is the approximate date he closed out the expressly understood and agreed that brewery in Merganser. it is not intended to convey hereby June 13. 1891. J oseph Penning that certain tract of land adjoining the received a Patent from the U.S. residence site of the grantors more Government for all his heretofore particularly described as follows, to· described land. wit: Commencing at the most D ecember 7, 1896. E.R. Reames. southerly corner of Block numbered Administrator of the Joseph Penning One (1) of the town of Merganser. estate. sold the Penning property to being also the most southerly corner of Henry Whiteline with the exception of the residence above referred to, run· Merganser and the James T obin tract ning thence in a southeasterly direc­ west of Highway #97 Bridge. tion one hundred llOOI feet on the J anuary 23, 1897. A.A. Fitch. easterly line of sajd lot if extended. Klamath County Sheriff. and Ad­ thence at right angles in a north· ministrator of the James T obin estate westerly direction to an intersection sold the Tobin property to E.R. with the southerly property line of the Reames. Reames Golf & Country Club. Inc .. Many transactions including proper­ thence easterly along the said property ty transfers, road and ditch right-of­ line to where said property line inter· ways, etc., took place during ap­ sects the westerly line of said town of proximately the next 30 years which Merganser, thence southwesterly along would become monotonous to repeat. the said westerly line of said town to Also they have little bearing on the the southwest c~rner of aid Lot One Merganser story. 11 I. Block One (II thereof. thence May 18. 1926. E.R. Reames, then southea terly along the southern line living in Talent, Oregon, sold property of said lot and block to place of begin­ to the Reames Golf and Country Club ning."' that now constitutes the first nine An extended and exhaustive search holes of the course. would have been necessary to continue June 25, 1926. Henry Whiteline all the trang{~rs that have taken p\ace gave a quitclaim deed to the North­ in the area since 1926. We repeat that west Utilities Company (a corporation Merganser was second to Linkville in possibly connected with the Great settlement. but legally it was first to Northern Railroad) for the remainder record the date of its platting. of his property extending from Therefore let it sleep in peace. Klamath View Auto Camp to the U.S.

24 I

White Lake Citv llllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll ll llllllllllllllllllllllilllllllliilllllllllllllllllllllllllll llllllllllllllllllllllllllll

In 1905 when the History of Central of the original Lower Klamath Lake Oregon was published "there was only system. A large percentage of the one 'dead' town (Merganser -­ White Lake area was south of the Editor) in Klamath County." At the Oregon-California State line and same time on the norther~ shores of therefore in California. White Lake barely inside Oregon. or Beginning about 1903 with the one mile south and two miles west of completion of the Adams Tule cut the center of Merrill, Oregon, from Lower Klamath Lake to White Klamath's newest boom town was in Lake and beyond as an irrigation the process of springing into existance. system for the Merrill-Tule Lake White Lake City was named for the country, boats were able to reach the lake upon whose shores it was to lake and navigate most of its area. flourish for a short time then pass into Merrill Landing was established at the oblivion . extreme southeastern side of the lake White Lake itself was so named through which a considerable amount because of the color of the lake bot­ of freight passed in early times. There tom, which apparently consisted of seems also to have been a landing some white diatomaceous material. along the north shore of White Lake. The lake was a very shallow extension At least a few years ago. two posts and 25 a cross-piece still remained of this little original. Politics. law enforcement. used landing. and the demand by new land clai­ Today, eliminated by irrigation and mants all tended to cloud the issue for a drainage projects. what was once number oi years before Oklahoma was White Lake is bisected by paved finally admitted as a state on Novem· California Highway #161. "State Line her 16. 1907. Road... connecting U.S. Highways Some individuals. as of now #139 and #97. White Lake City lay unknown, evidently recognized rich north of this road and north of Lhe possibilities in the timber lands of the curving north shore of the lake. The Klamath Indian Reservation. which nucleus of the town was in Section 16. might bring on a demand and ''run" Township 41 South. Range 10 East. resembling that which had taken place the northeast corner lying one-haU for the fertile lands of Oklahoma some mile west of the junction of the Merrill ten to fifteen years before. Agitation Pit and Lower Klamath Lake R oads. was therefore commenced. to liquidate The History of Klamath County. the Klamath Indian Reservation. even published in 1941, states that ·'When. going so far that a bill was introduced however one reads the List of towns in Congress to that effect. that were alive in 1905 (At the time The History of Klamath Cotmty the History of Central Oregon was will once again take up the story of published -- Editorl, one is com­ White Lake City: " As Bert Hall tells pelled to add a few more to the dead the story (E.B. Hall came to Klamath column. A notable example is White Falls in 1905 from Denver. Colorado. Lake City which was born amid a He and his wife moved into the Bald­ blare of tmmpets. figuratively win Hotel while it was still an office speaking. only a few months before and apartment building. About 1910 the History of Central Oregon was he started a hotel there transforming it \vritten. from an apartment house. 2V2 years The idea that eventually resulted in later he established the Hall Hotel at the founding of White Lake City the comer of Fourth & Main which he seems to have originated in Oklahoma operated for some 36 years -­ City ar ound the turn of the century. It Editor.l. he was taking a vacation will be remembered that the present between selling out one business and state of Oklahoma had originally been investing in another. fishing on a set aside as Indian Territory. After the Southern California beach. when he Civil War many changes took place. fell into conversation with a man who relocating various tribes, etc. Then on told him that the Klamath Indian April 22, 1889 a large segment of land Reservation in Oregon was soon to be around present Oklahoma City was opened to settlement and that he was opened to white settlement. On that going to open a townsite there. such a day took place the sensational ·'run" proposition as he had previously tried in which many thousands engaged. in Oklahoma and knew couldn't fail In following years other "runs" took financially -- an ideal location for place as new lands were taken from the store Mr. Hall was contemplating. the various Indian trihes by treaty and Subsequently Mr. Hall talked with the otherwise. to settlement by the whites. man again and after a time gave him Included in these "runs" was the some money as part payment for lots Cherokee Strip opening on September in the new town. the remainder to be 16, 1893. almost as famous as the paid on the opening day. When the 26 Preparing far the first sale of lots in the boom-town of White Loke City, June 1, 1905. Buildings unidentified. Maude Baldwin Photo

Oklahoma and Oregon Townsite strong talking point when it came time Company (J.E. Loy. President: L.G. to sell lots. -- Editor). Through the West. Vice-President; and J.E. Cook. medium of blaring advertisements in Treasurer) arrived in Klamath County the local papers they induced 2?>0 in ilie Fall of 1904. they found that people Ia sizable turnout for thost­ thev were misinformed about the days l to attend the "drawing'' or op~ning of the reservation, but felt assignment of lots on June l. I 90:1. tlley must locate the town somewhere and several of the investors en­ rather than return the money already deavored to make good their expen­ paid down on lots, so chose a 350 acre diture by putting up temporary tract on White Lake, three and one buildings and starting in business. At half miles from Merrill. one time the White Lake City School (Several other sources reveal that in boasted an enrollment of 30 pupils. connection with the selection of this but when the citv was first seen bv the land for a townsite there was the writer. in the Fa·ll of 1908. it con ~is ted possibility, however slight. of a branch on one two-story structure. once railroad building in from Bartle. white, standing forlornly in a waste of California on the McCloud River sagebrush. Without bitterness but Railroad begun in 1897. This survey with that clarity of statement that has planned that Lower Klamath Lake always been noted as an admirable would be reached at Laird's Landing. quality of Bert Hall he said to the thence skirt Lower Klamath Lake to writer: 'II you mention White Lake in the east to tap the great Klamath your history. pleas say that I ·was one Basin. At least this survey would be a of t11e suckers. not one of the promoters.' He also mentioned fellow "The town is to be opened on or 'suckers' who came to the county at before May lst, 1905, or during the the same time -- the Stilts family, Lewis and Clark Exposition to be held R.J. Sheets, Ben Faus of Merrill, and at Portland beginning May lst, 1905. others, -- and it occurred to the They clain1 that the very low rates to writer that perhaps the White Lake be obtained during the Exposition will fiasco was, after all, a blessing in assure them of attendance at the big disguise, since it brought us a group of opening of several thousand people, citizens of this calibre. " more than would otherwise attend. We will now let the newspapers take They believe that this mutual plan, up the story of White Lake City as together with the great natural advan­ this editor feels their contemporary in­ tages should give the town from 5,000 formation is far more valuable and ac­ to 10,000 population from the start." curate than the reminiscences of old Klamath Republican. April 13, timers who seem to have forgotten 1905. "Add: We have established a much, added something that never lumber yard at White Lake City and was, or completely mixed the sequence are now ready to supply all kinds of of events: lumber for building purposes. Stilts Klamath Republican. September & Henry." 15, 1904. "J.E. Loy, President, L.G. According to U.E. Reeder West, Secretary, F.T. Cook, (Klamath Echoes. 1965 1: "Most of the Treasurer. of the Oklahoma and lumber used in building Merrill and Oregon Townsite Company have been the surrounding ranches was brought in the city for the past two weeks in by boat from McCormack's mill at looking for a site on which to lay out a Keno to White Lake City, not by town. The company has an office in wagon as most people think." Room 214, Culbertson Building, White Lake City was surveyed Oklahoma City, Oklahoma, and during the Spring of 1905 by Don J. claims to be incorporated with a Zumwalt, C.E. The plat was filed and capital stock of $75,000.00. They have recorded in Klamath County records secured an option on 350 acres of land on May 16, 1905. Legally it was belonging to C.N.F. Armstrong, on described as follows: "Beginning at Lower Klamath Lake, south of the Section corner common to Sections Merrill. The purchase price is to be 9. 10, 15 & 16, Township 41 South, $10 an acre. Range 10 East, Thence south 2013 "The stated object and purpose of feet to White Lake; thence westerly this company is to build a city in along the lake to the California­ Klamath county. Their plan is to sell Oregon State line (Now the State Line certificates of stock at $15.00 per Road #161 -- Editor); thence west share, $10.00 to be paid when stock is along the State line 907 feet; thence issued and $5.00 to be paid on notice north 3617 feet to the section line bet­ from the secretary, on or before May ween Sections 9 & 16, thence Easterly l, 1905. Each certificate holder will be along the section line 4000 feet to entitled to one lot in the town for each place of beginning. Containing 244.37 share of stock he holds, and his pro Acres more or less." rata of the profits derived from the The News-Herald of January 30, sale of the reserved lots. No person 193 7 wrote an article on White Lake can purchase more than three shares City, that although published many from the company. years later should be inserted into the 28 history of that community at this time: to Portland to purchase equipment to "White Lake City -- boom town of be installed in The Times plant in the Klamath basin in 1905 and '06 White Lake City. The editor returned -- was served by one of the most with an old Ar~y press and a varied picturesque weeklies of early assortment of type. newspaper history in southern Oregon, "All the work was done by hand the White Lake Times. from writing editorials and news to the Although the newspaper was started setting of type and running the press. before the town itseU, and was "While 'Hutch' held down the office published as job work in the old and wrote his editorials. which, by the Republican plant in Klamath Falls, way. were quoted in farm papers all the Times was moved into its new over the United States. Bert was out location in White Lake City early in and about selUng real estate, 1905, as soon as a few buildings were 'scooping' news. and soliciting adver­ completed and settlers began to arrive. tising all over the country. "White Lake City in its hey-day "One of Hutch· s · stories which boasted 200 inhabitants, all of whom brought much publicity to the expected their village to become an Klamath basin was about a prize mule important metropolis. The town con­ bred by N .S. Merrill, founder of the sisted of a bank, a restaurant, fur­ town by the same name. This muJe niture and hardware store, general was a huge animal, and the editor of merchandise store and a millinery The Times ran a news item telling the shop, as well as several other business advantages of this country for stock houses and a number of homes. raising, and giving Merrill's mule as "E.B. 'Bert' Hall at that time was an example, declaring it to be the in the real estate business, and sold largest animal of its age and breed in lots in White Lake City. Believing in the United States. it himseU, he built a $5,000 building, "Not long afterward a letter arrived and, incidentally, was the owner and from a Florida editor saying. 'You publisher of the White Lake Times. fellows are all d--- liars, we raise "Vance Hutchins, colorful figure in larger mules in Florida than any Klamath newspaper history. was the Oregonian could imagine. ' managing editor. chief editorial writer. " Hutch published the letter, and re­ type setter. pressman and general fac­ iterated that Merrill's muJe was totem of The Times. champ. A long controversy followed. "Though the weekly had only a and eventually the argument found its short life, about a year to be exact. it way into 'Home and Fireside,· was a vital factor in the growth of the nationally read rural magazine. mushroom town of White Lake City, "The results was that the Klamath and had a circulation of more than basin mule was submitted to thorough 900. Subscribers were scattered over weighing and measuring processes. the entire Klamath Basin, for at that and sure enough. he took all prizes. time, the White Lake Times was the con!irming the judgement of Editor only newspaper published outside of Hutchins. Klamath Falls. It was entered as "According to recollections of the second-class matter every week in the old-tin1ers. White Lake Citv was star­ Merrill post office. and was eagerly ted by three Oklahom~ townsite awaited bv all its readers. promotors. who had hoped to build "In Jan'uary 1905. Hall sent 'Hutch" their Oregon town on the Klamath In- 29 dian reservation, which seemed likely struction, also the temporary tent to open for settlement about that time. houses, which will now be converted The reservation plan fell through, into permanent dwellings. Among the however, so 260 acres of land was buildings we noticed was Mr. Nelson's purchased from the Charlie Armstrong hotel, which contains 28 rooms; the ranch on Lower Klamath lake, and Whitelake Cafe owned by Harry White Lake City was platted. Stilts: the Pioneer Restaurant; Mr. "All lots were sold for the same Clark's grocery store; the ofiice of the price, about $15, and salesmen ped­ Spencer Lumber Company, and sev­ dled the property all over the east and eral more. prominent among which middle west. Two lots out of each is the Hall and McNeff building, a 50 block were reserved for the land x 60 two story business house, which promotion company, and later a when completed, would be a credit to drawing was held, and the lots appor­ any city. It is the intention of these tioned to their owners. gentlemen to have two large business " At that time it seemed probable rooms on the first floor with office and that the McCloud railroad would be living rooms for their families above. routed through White Lake City, but 'McNeff and Hall' is the name of the with the purchase of the Weed logging new real estate firm which has already road by E.H. Harriman, and the opened its doors in Whitelake City. resulting change in right-of-way. the 'Fitch and Spencer' is another real White Lake City bubble burst, the estate firm established in the new city. new town failed. and the settlers even­ The Bank building is also a neat tually left. structure. and the incorporators, who "The good old White Lake Times are reliable men, are ready to accom­ folded up too, and according to Hall modate the public with a general was sold to N .S. Merrill of mule banking business. This is looked upon notoriety. The plant was moved to as one of the best features of the new Merrill and the name changed to the city, as it is a great accommodation to Merrill Record, under which name it the people of Southern Klamath coun­ is published today {1937 -- Editorl. ty. "White Lake City remained a ghost ·'The people enjoyed themselves as town for many years, but finally all suited their fancy until 10 o'clock. the buildings were torn down and the when they were called together by lumber hauled away. so that now not Major Worden, who kindly acted as even a stone marks the site of the chairman of the meeting. The major. boom town of early days." in his happiest vein made a few Klamath Republican. June 8, remarks, after which he introduced 1905. "June 1, 1905 was the natal day W.W. McNeff. of Colorado. who gave of this town White City which is so an address of welcome. Mr. McNeff beautifully located in the southern dwelt on the fact that these new part of Klamath county. The birth of citizens came here in the true spirit of this new city was made a fete day by friendship to aid in the future the good citizens of Klamath county development of Klamath county with who came in wagons. carriages. and its unlimited possibilities. by boat to welcome these new citizens "The meeting was then turned over into their midst. to the Water Users' Association. "Many were surprised at the num­ Colonel Holabird. Frank Adams. N .S. ber of buildings already under con- Merrill, J .P. Churchill. Elmer Ap- 30 plegate and Mr. Van Brimmer spoke time to start for home. All left ex­ in behalf of Government irriga tion. pressing themselves well pleased with urging the people to do their part and the day spent in the city and expressed not lose this generous offer made to the wish that they might be present at them by the Government. People are the nex1 Natal day celebration of beginning to see this in the tme Hght White Lake City. It is estimated there and many signed up after the meeting. were 1.000 people present. " After the addresses closed. the ''Much of the success of the dav is people faced about and Miss Maude due our energetic townsman Mr. E.B. Baldwin of Klamath Falls took a pic- Hall. also Mrs. Hall. Mrs. McNeff. tu.re of the great number who had Miss Stilts and others who were on the gathered around the platform. Some entertainment committee. of these pictures will be treasured in '"Last but not least we mention later years by these new citizens who members of the Oklahoma and Oregon have left eastern homes to come to T ownsite Company. who have con­ Klamath county. Oregon. ducted the opening of this new town ''This was followed by several well with so much credit. to themselves and rendered pieces by the Merrill band. profit to those who have adopted after which there was dancing. Mr. Klamath county as their new home. and Mrs. Ford playing for the dancers. '"May Whitelake soon be numbered Those who did not dance sat in the among the prosperous towns of building and thoroughly enjoyed the Klamath county. is the wish extended fine music until the shades of evening _ to these new citizens.·· warned the good people that it was Klamath Republican. June 29. / 1

The city of Merrill bond playing for the entertainment of the assembled crowd at the opening day of White lake City. Note the buggies parked on all sides. Moude Baldwin Photo 1905. ''Railroad to follow Hood Sur­ Receipts up to J uly 1. 1911 amounted vey, already built to Grass Lake. some to but $20.00. It would thus appear 24 miles. Probable route, down Butte that the end of White Lake Citv had Creek Valley to Boyes -- Hole in arrived by July l. 1909. The p~st of­ the Ground (At north base of present fice was discontinued to Merrill on Dorris Hill on Highway #97 -­ December 15. 1912. Editor) -- T eeter's Landing thence Klamath R epublican. September east side of Klamath River to 14. 1905. " Add: Sheets and Murphy. Klamath Falls. The Hood survev was Furniture ... made about 25 years ago." · Klamath R epublican. September Klamath R epublican. August 24, 28, 1905. " Whitelake City now has a 1905. " McCloud River Railroad ex­ school district. #33 has been created." pected to reach La ird's shortly after Klamath R epublican. November Christmas. S.O. J ohnson. is the 2, 1905. ·'The McCloud railroad has manager, and is a on of President received 40 cars of steel. now laying Johnson. To extend from the terminus on the ground (At Bartle -- Editor) of the railroad at Bartle. Mr. Johnson for extension to the north. (Instead reports 40 teams and men started this iron was used to extend the grade work between Laird and Bartle logging road eastward toward Ham­ this week. They are to push with all­ bone and Burney at a later date -­ out vigor." (This announcement. as Editor). An express office has been we know events today. was completely established at Bartle. the terminus of in error -- Editor). the present railroad. The company is Klamath Republican. September doing a good deal of business with the 7. 1905. "Mr. and Mrs. W.W. Mc­ stage Line (To Laird's Landing -­ Neff want the present school district Editor) and steamboat (The Steamer divided. 30 children who are nearer Klamath to Klamath Falls -­ White Lake City than Lone Pine. Editor). They point out that the new citizens "S.O. Johnson of the McCloud cannot sign a petition for this as they Lumber Co. is reported to be buying haven't resided in the district long timber in the Klamath country." enough. White Lake destined to be Articles continued to appear in the District #33. ·• KJamath R epublkan to as late as United States postal records in the February 14, 1907 that Merrill and National Archives state that White vicinity was to have a railroad. Lake City was established as a post of­ However. late that season as the fice on September 20. 1905 with southern Pacific continued construc­ Lillian H. Stilts as postmaster. For the tion on the line from Grass Lake via year ending July l. 1907 receipts Orr Lake and Mt. Hebron toward amounted to $102.00. For the year present day Dorris the dreams and ending July 1, 1909 receipts amounted visionary plans vanished. Actually the to $165.00. H enry Voss. a native of Southern Pacific reached Klamath Wisconsin. became the postmaster on Fall on May 20. 1909. May 17. 1909. Vos owned 160 acres By J anuary 20th, 1910 according to north across the Lower Klamath Lake the Klamath R epublican. the Road from the northwest corner of the glamour and romance of the new townsite of White Lake City. The post boom town of White Lake City seems office may have been located there to have completely evaporated and the during Voss' term as postmaster. true aspect of the affair began to take 32 shape: "It is not so long ago. Klamath R epublican. January 16. something like five years, when the 1913. "MEMORY OF WHITE business men of this city were thrown LAKE CITY BOBS TO THE into about as much excitement as that FRONT. Memories of a little flier in experienced over the proposition to frenzied finance taken in this county a change the location of the courthouse. few years ago, is recalled by the The cause of the excitement at that receipt of a deed for recording at the time was the creation of a new city in county clerk's office. The deed is for Klamath County. This new metropolis Lot 16, Block 59 of Whitelake City. bore the euphonious name of White and was executed June l. 1905 by the Lake City -- more recently having Oklahoma & Oregon Townsite Com­ been christened "Lemon City." There pany to Minnie Kirtland of Lawrence, is no more disgraceful pages in the Texas. annals of Klamath County than those "In the spring of 1905, the townsite bearing the history of the rise and fall company platted forty acres on White of this piece of fraud. The matter was Lake two miles west of Merrill. Two ignored for a time by this city, and grocery stores, a hardware store, a would, perhaps, have been left to meet butcher shop and a newspaper were with the fate that was in store for it quickly started, and articles of incor­ without any outcry, had it not been poration for the Bank of Whitelake for the fact that the promoters were City, with a capitalization of $10.000 carried away with the success with was filed. The company also built a which they met and began the cry that two story o£Iice building. it would soon be the county seat of "After this start the sale of the Klamath County. property with alluring literature and "That slogan touched the match convincing arguments. worked that set off the fireworks, and it was throughout the Middle West offering no trouble for anyone to hear the small investers an opportunity to make words "Thieves," "bunco men," their start in Life. In a few months. "grafters," and other such pat titles more than nine hundred lots were pur­ handed out on all sides. The storm chased by residents of the Middle was so great that it aroused the fear of West. the promoters of this scheme, and the "The forty acres (244.37 acres -­ dupes who bought lots were taken Editor) were purchased at $10 an acre, from Keno to the scene of the bilking, and the lots were sold for $15 each, so for the fear that they might learn the the Oklahoma & Oregon Townsite truth in passing through Klamath compan y cleaned up in the neigh­ Falls. borhood of $12,000 for their few "This history of that town is quite month's work. familiar to the people of Klamath "Following the sale of the property, Falls. although some of them seem to the newspaper closed publication. The have forgotten it for the present. It is mercantile establishments were next to referred to at this time as an quit, and finally. the buildings were illustration of the senselessness of the either razed or moved to Merrill, so aU outbursts of fury that will sometimes that remains of Whitelake City is a carry level-headed men off their feet. stretch of land on the shores of an as instanced by the manner in which alkali lake. some joined hands with the Hog Com­ ''Three columns were devoted to the bine in its fight on the Herald." list of delinquent taxpayers in 33 Whitclake City in the last tax adver­ Nothing remain but alkali. sand and tisement the assessments again t the age. property averaging about ten cent a Finally as late a l 969 a letter was lot. received at M errill from Big Springs. "There are still some owners of Texas. post marked April 18th. The Whitelak«> realty who believe they envelope was addressed: have a chance to treble their money Bank of White Lake City, and some appear to picture in their mind, a flouri hing city on the shore (If still in business I of the pictLtresque· lake. One of these or Post Office. Merrill P.O .. Oregon recently wrote the sheriir o££ice regarding city taxes. stating that he The Letter read: had written to the marshal of Whitelake city and the city recorder 1704 tate. without receiving a reply. and even hi Big pring. Texas letter addre sed to the pastor or the April 16. 1969. Fir t Methodist Church of Whitelake City remained unanswered.·· Banko£ Whitelake City. From this date onward. very little Merrill P.0 . Oregon mention of White Lake City ~an be Gentlemen: found. It is reported to have had a peak population of about 200 per on The enclosed picture (Printed at one time. By 1918 the forrrrer bank elrewhere in this i ue or Klamath building. with its corner entrance and Echoes -- Editod were found with false front was serving as a one room ome o£ my mother's thing · when she school. There were from eight to ten recently passed away. pupils. The townsite. once zoned with II they would be of hi torical in­ street sign and street names had no terest to your bank -- if it is still in streets. " It was worse than a ghost business -- or to the historian of town. the entire vicinity being bleak Merrill (The M erri ll i sue or Klamath and windy. By 1919 the pupils attt>n· Echoes. 1969. #7. was in the process ded the M«>rrill school. and Whitelake of preparation when this letter was was no more. turned over to the Editorl if there is March 9. 1955 the townsite of uch a place still -- I am glad to White Lake Citv wa vacated bv the seod them. Klamath Cou~ty Commi i~ner . iocerely. Today the lake i dry and all signs or H. Creath Earley. the Lown :,ite have disappeared. Told To Me By Kenneth McLeod, Jr. September 26, 1949

The McLeod's name never showed those dav and which has now been up in the Central Oregon Hi tor~ upped to.S25.00 in the Klamath Coun· becau ·e he didn't pay the $2.50 to get t) H istory. I do not know when my it mentioned that was required in grandfather McLeod. Angu I think 34 his name was, came to this country he settled. In later years he would (the West Coast) or how. Undoubtedly cross to the east side of the Cascades he was related to the McLeod who and in Central Oregon buy sheep and was a factor at Vancouver for the drive them back to the Willamette Hudson's Bay Company. By '49 he Valley and sell them there. I was born was in San Francisco and made his at San Francisco. stake in the gold mines. He later It is presumed that Grandfather became a partner of Fairchild's in the McLeod came into the Klamath coun­ sheep business and came into the try by way of the JF ranch (The old Klamath country sometime before the John Fairchild ranch southwest of Modoc War, probably in 1871. He Lower Klamath Lake and west of located about five miles west of the Laird's Landing-- Editor), since he Stone Bridge on the west side of Lost was a partner of Fairchild, and River. He squatted there, probably worked his way east around Lower near the hills west of Merrill. or at Klamath Lake. then north to the Lost least his home was in that locality. He River country. He never had trouble must not have been more than three with the Indians. probably Fairchild miles from Captain Jack's camp and saw to that. Also he mav have worked always got along with him alright. He into the California co~try through always made it clear that he was not the influence of the McLeod of Hud­ associated with Fairchild in the race son's Bay Company times. This horse business. McLeod was in the Klamath and Pit Sometime after '49 he returned to River country by 1828 and McCloud Scotland and married while there. A River was named for him. Also he son. Kenneth. Sr.. was born there cached his furs one winter near the before they came back to California, present town of McCloud. California, by boat this time. Kenneth Sr. was six hence the name. years old at the tin1e of the Modoc According to what Peter Schonchin War. Alter the outbreak of the war once told me. the Ben Wright McLeod herded his sheep north to massacre was at the bend in Lost near LinkviUe and wintered in the River below the Stone Bridge. Devil's Tea Garden neighborhood Also. Captain Jack Spring. where (Near the junction of the East Side the latter was hom is between Sheepy By-pass and Washburn Way -­ Lake and Oklahoma Flat. Probably at Editor). It was a severe winter and he the spring on the west side of the butte lost half of his sheep. From here he one mile or so east of the ''D" ranch. went to Salem and that vicinity where Henlev 1111111111111111111111111111111111111111 lllllllilllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllflllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll

The Henley community. although honor of an outstanding local pioneer. parts were settled at an early date. did A history of the Henley school will be not become known under that name given in a later issue of Klan1ath until about 1910. A school had been Echoes along with the many other held as early as 1909 in a private schools of the county. For the present home. When the first school was built we will record some of the history at the present site of Henley High closely connected with the Henley School the name Henley was chosen in area. 35 in the area occurred on May 5. 1846 when Capt. J ohn C. Freemo~t and his expedition came up from California headed north. WhPn hP c- rol'I,;Pd Lost River at the S tonP B r idge b elow Merrill he named the stream McCrady River in honor of a friend in the east. The name failed to catch on. Fremont then circled Upper Klamath Lake, had two battles with the Indians. and returned south through the area about May 15th. Undouhtedh· the Henley area was visited or vie\\;ed by white. during the emigrant days betwt:>en 1846 and 1855. but if so and bv whom i unknown. Lt. H . L. Abbott of the Williamson- Abbott U.S. Railroad survey p~rty of 1855, alter crossing Lost River at the Stone Bridge on August 13th. in part wrote: ·• * * * we pa ed over without difficulty. and followed a well marked Indian trail toward the north. through a level valley dotted with sage James T. Henley bushes and a few clump of bunch 1853·1901 grass (Past the Hen ley area -­ The fi rst documented and authentic Editor)." Camp that night was made record of the arrival of whites in the somewhere between the head of Lost Henlev area occttrred on December River Slough and Lost River Gap at 16. 1B26. On that date Peter Skene Olene. Ogden and hi 1826-27 Hudson's Bay No attempt will be made to Company Fur Brigade arrived at a enumerate the visitors to the Central point on Lost R iver somewhere in the Klamath Basin for the next several vicinity of the head of the Lost River years although there seems to have Diver~ion Canal. which in later year been a goodly number. However, the replaced the Lost River Slough. The route up Lost River from the Merrill brigade departed southward toward country seems to have been on the TuleLake on the 19th. main road from Yreka and Northern On January 6. 1827 they returned California to the John Day mining northward to remain in the vicinity of area during the early 1860's. Two the slough until the 13th, when they diarists have left records for this departed for the head of Link River. passage during the years 1863 and Three months and a half later. on 1864. Both mention crossing " the April 30th. they once again pa ed slough on Lost River.,. through the Klamath Country alter With the fotmding of Fort Klamath visiting the Rogue River Valley. again 118631. Klamath Agency 118661 and headed south toward Pit River in or­ Linkville ( 18671. roads were opened thern California. from California through the Henley The nex t authentic arrival of whites area towards the northwest and the 36 Old Fort Road between Linkville and ing wagon road approximating this Fort Klamath. The ford at the head of route. Link River was replaced by Nurse's The same ''Trail, .. but extending to ferry at the mouth of Link River in The Dalles on the Columbia River. is 1867 and that in turn by a bridge in indicated on an 1863 map of Oref!On 1869. Both were at the mouth of Link by B.J. Pengra, Surveyor General of River where it empties into Lake Oregon, but is mistakenly labeled Ewauna. Then by at least the spring Fremont's Trail to California. of 1870, as we have seen in the Finally an 1878 map of Oregon Merganser story. a ferry had been ad­ compiled by Robt. A. Habersham ded by Wend olen Nus and Charles shows only an Oregon-California Schneider at what later became the Railroad survey entering Oregon near town of Merganser. Bloody Point. crossing Lost River in The first wagon road southeast the vicinity of Stukel Bridge and down the Klamath Valley would have Klamath River at Merganser. thence developed in the next few years after northwesterly past Buck Lake. This Linkville was founded in 1867. From route was undoubtedly copied from Linkville this road kept around the Jesse Applegate's survey of 1869. The foothills avoiding swampy land much only wagon road shown on this map the same as the present East Side By­ comes in from Lakeview. via Bonanza pass to near the Fair Grounds. From and crosses Klamath River at Link­ there it approximated Summers Lane viUe and so on to Ashland. How little to the little hill east of the old Sum­ our map-makers knew of the Klamath mers School buildings. now the Basin! Klamath County School Warehouse The second road, the Merganser. and I.M.C .. and Bus Garage. Thence route. once across the Klamath River it kept east or this little hill to head would have kept north of the Lost southeasterly in an almost straight line River Slough, passing through the to Mac's Store on Highway #39 south present airport to join the Liokville of Henley. It then angled due road near the slough which both roads southeast to Stukel Ford and later seem to have crossed at the location Stukel Bridge, crossing Lost River at described above. that point. Lost River Slough was It was in reference to this crossing crossed about halfway between High­ of Lost River Slough that B.S. '·Bac" way #39 and Homedale Road but Grigsby once told this writer: ''In 1878 slightly north of the present Lost River I fed cattle for Stukel for SOc a day. Diversion Canal. The route just * * *There was an old ford there (At described is taken from an 1884 survey Stukel's -- Editod in those days made by O.C. Applegate shortly after that they used when the river was Klamath County was divided from down. Also they forded at Lost River Lake County. Gap in low water, but later built a This road is shown on the 1859 pole bridge. In those days there was Map of Oregon by the Bureau of only one house between here and Topographical Engineers. probably as Merrill, a buckaroo camp on the a result of Fremont's 1846 excursion slough." into Southern Oregon. There can be Evidently Jessee Applegate during no other explanation since Linkville his survey of 1869 became quite had yet to be located and there is no familiar with the Klamath Country. known wagon use of any correspond- and recognizing its potential decided 37 to capitalize on his findings. It was east side of the Klamath River. sometime during this period or very bringing at least 350.000 acres more to shortly thereafter that he became yield from 5 to 10 times the grass that associated with Jesse D. Carr, the it does at present. Mr. Carr has the California capitalist. capital and enterprise. and Mr. Ap­ Members of the Jesse Applegate plegate has the brain and experience family settled at Clear Lake in what is to accomplish the work. The land will now Modoc County, California, in the cost Mr. Carr not more than early summer of 1871 or even before. $975,000. The ditch and other im­ As evidence see a letter to A.B. provements will cost $100.000. making Meacham. Superintendant of Indian it all. $1.075.000. ln three years. when Affairs, from Jesse Applegate. dated the Oregon railroad reaches the Ashland. Oregon. July 27. 1871 in Klamath Lake Valley. these 700,000 which he in part wrote: "I have today acres of drained and irrigated lands reached this place after making the will be worth at least $5 per acre, tour of Lost River and the rest of the making a total of $3.500,000. giving Modoc country, and it's inhabitants. him a clear profit of $2.425.000. (Cost both white and red are in a high state of land to Carr: $1.25 per acre and he of excitement. * * * I know you wiU will have 10 years to pay for the excuse me for my anxiety on this sub­ 50,000 acres of swamp land.) ject when I inform you that two of my Approximately two months later the sons (Henry and either Daniel W. or Times again reported; "December 2, Peter 0. - - Editorl and my grand­ 1871. The Lost and Link River son (Charles Putnam -- Editor) are [rrigating and Manufacturing Co. in the extreme frontier of the Lost -- The board of Directors of lhis River country, having their all in­ company. consisting of James T. vested in a band of cattle for which Glenn, Henry Klippel. Jesse Ap­ they are now cutting hay on Clear plegate, James D. Fay (Jessee Ap­ Lake, and that duty requires my own plegate's daughter Gertrude married a return to that vicinity to-morrow. not James D. Fay-- Editor}, (James J. however near enough to them to ren­ Comstock. absent) met in Jacksonville der them any assistance if attacked ... on Tuesday the 28th, organized with Two months and a hall later we get Jesse Applegate, president, James T. an inclination as to why Applegate's Glenn. Secretary. duty required his own return to that A coad (Sid of by-laws was adop­ vicinity ''tomorrow." Also of the plans ted, and measures taken for the com­ being inaugurated for the Klamath mencement of work on the canal as Country in the near future when the soon as the Spring opens. Jacksonville Democratic Times of The object of the company is the October 7. 1871 reported: "The prac­ construction of a canal from the gap of ticability and advantages of irrigation Lost River to Little Klamath Lake. is going to be tried on a large scale. large enough to float steamers and Jesse D. Carr has made a contract barges. and the creation of manufac­ with Jesse Applegate to cut a ditch or tory. etc. The canal will be about ten canal from Lost River through miles long, and will render productive Klamath Vallev into Klamath River. a a large area of land now utterly distance of 10 miles. at a cost of valueless for want of irrigation. The $40.000. This ditch will tap Lost River company is sustained by several noted at the gap of Klamath Valley. on the capitalists in California as well as in 38 Oregon. and means business .. , through either our cottnty histories or Two weeks later the Times of in the reminise<'nce- of old-timers of December 16. 1871 ran the following any work actua lly· being commenced. advertisement: " Jesse Applegate. other than this newspaper adver­ agent of Lost and Link River tisement of December 16. 1871. Irrigating. Manu.facturing and 4. The California-Oregon railroads Navigation Company gives notice that had not in 187 1 yet reached Redding. ground has been broken upon their California or Roseburg. Oregon which canal to turn Lost R iver into Link points were reached in 1872 and con­ River (Klamath River -- Editorl. struction halted for ten vears. while In passing. it is interesting to note right-of-ways and sub ~ i d i es were that a small group of men. Henry discussed. When construction was Klippell, James T . Glenn, J ames continued in 1882. the line led up the N.T. Miller and J ames D. Fay know111 Sacramento River to Shasta Vallev as the Southern Oregon Swamp Land and over the Siskiyous. by-passing th~ Company purchased 39.926.48 acres Klamath Country. E ventually in the of swamp land from the State of 1920's the main line wa re-routed to Oregon. Included in this purchase pass through the Klamath Basin from were la11ds in the Buck Lake, Weed. California. recrossing the Chewaucan and Rhett. Tule or Modoc Cascades into the Willamette Vallev Lake vicinities. T he purchase is re­ by way of t.he Natron Cut-o£[ at Odeil corded in Klamath County Deed Re­ Lake. Thus it would seem that the cords. Book #]. page 28 as of April 10. original route sanctioned by Carr and 1873. State Swamp Certificate #67 had Applegate, eventually proved the bet­ been issued for this acreage on August ter route. 20. 1872. 5. It must be admitted that when it Several comments must be made at came to planning (or dreaming) there this time on the Carr-Applegate was nothing small about our ances­ associa Lion: tors. they really "thought big." l. Jess Applegate had been a 6. Just what caused the abandon­ professional civil engineer both m ment of the project is nnknown. Missouri before migrating west in Several factors could have con­ 1843, and in Oregon after arriving. He tributed, namely: the size and cost of worked at times on the early north­ the project and the few fa cilities then south territorial roads of Western available with which to pmsue such an Oregon and on the early north-south undertaking. all offset by the overall railroad surveys of the same area. time of anticipated income return: the 2. The reclamation of the Klamath immediate rush of new settlers into the Basin as envisioned in the above Klamath Basin. upon learning of the newspaper articles were about fifty contemplated project. which in turn years in advance of their times. The triggered unrest among the Modoc In­ U.S. Bureau of Reclamation in the dians who feared losing their ancestral 1906-1 922 and even later period. con­ homesite. and eventuaiJy the outbreak structed almost identical systems as of the Modoc War which took place that proposed by Carr and Applegate November 29. 1872 on Lost River at in 1870. Instead. however. o£ grass the Stone Bridge. lands. the entire basin became a rich I n regard to this 1871 rush of new and productive farm area. settlers. the J ack sonville De mocra tic 3. No record has come down to us, Times of J une 17. 1871 has the 39 following to offer: " We have the were members or friends of the Ap­ pleasure of meeting Mr. Dennis plegate family. This land amounted to Crawley of Link river. in town this 1. 520 acres. and in most cases cost week. Dennis reports everything $200.00 for each 160 acre tract. Some flourishing in the Lower Klamath wollld now probably be valued ap­ Lake. Crops look well, and immigrants proximately $1,000 or more per acre. flying from the drought of California, It therefore seems safe to assume that are flocking into the Lower Klamath Carr had been here at least once basin by way of Pitt river and Big before. and was by now well on his Valley. D ennis also says, what we are way to establishing his dreamed of cat­ very glad to hear, that they are chiefl y tle ranch empire. It is al o interesting Democrat ... to note that these deeds from the Exactly when Jesse D. Carr first origi nal owners to Carr are numbered came to the Klamath Ba in is 3. 4. 5. 7, 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. and 13, unknown. However. be must have copied into Klamath County Deed visited the Basin sometime during the Book No. l. from J ackson or Lake summer of 1871 or even before. We County records when Klamath Countv cannot conceive that so astute a was created on October 17. 1882. · business man as Carr would invest hi Regarding Carr's 640 acre tract of money in a Klamath enterprise before land in Section 36. lying along High­ thoroughly investigating it. When he way #39, between the Henry Semon first bargained for holdings here is also place and Mac's store. J .0. Hamaker unknown. but Klamath County re­ remembered: " The spring of '83 I cords (Deed Book #1. pages 6-131 reveal commenced to ride the range as a real that he fi rst received deeds to land cowboy. and had orne experience as here on ovember 27. 1871 and such for five years. And the first time February 27, 1872. The land pur­ I was in what was known as the Lost chased, included 400 acres in Section River Slough was in the summer of 36, T ownship 39 South. Range 8 East, 1883 . Near what is now Henley was located where the town of Midland is what was then known as the Carr now situated: 640 acres. or all of Sec­ shee p sheds. where J esse D. Carr had tion 36, T ownship 39 South. Range 9 lost a small fortune in sheep. This was East. which lies west of the Klamath rather a surprise to me as I had come Falls-Merrill Highway #39. and north­ from a country where the people west of Mac's Store (This La nd was always had enough to keep their stock later owned bv Henrv Semon, M artha fat the year around, and not used to Green, Fred Ding l er ~ Wm. Green and seeing ~ t ock starved I thought the Ira Orem -- Editorl; and 480 acres Humane Society should handle this in Section 36. T ownship 40 South. case. but I soon' learned that this was Range 10 East, which lies one mile a common thing for people to lose part directly north of the town of Merrill. or even all of a bunch of stock in one The tr.acts were all State School lands winter and think nothing of it. only to and in every case were deeded to Carr be able to commence to build up before the ~wne r had received his deed another one in the near future. lrom the tale. Most of the principal Regarding thi part of the country. owners were non-resident of the coun­ from there to the Little Klamath Lake ty, and at the time probabl~ aJI li ved. I will sav there never was a place in or had lived in the Rogue River Valley the coun.try where the sagebru h got near J acksonville. In most ca e they larger than in this part of the country 40 and that it was hard to sit a horse Brimmer-Adams Ditch, I will add when running after wild horses as the that upon the assuming control of the brush made it one continuous hurdle Van Brimmer Ditch. Mr. J. Frank jump for the entire trip. " Adams conceived that the waters of The irrigation of the Klamath Basin White Lake were not of the proper has been quite thoroughly covered by mixture for irrigation. being rather combining articles in several past strongly impregnated with Alkali, and Klamath Echoes publications, namely, he prepared to open through this Tule #7. pages 1-25 of the Merrill-Keno divide to tap the Lower Klamath. or issue: #8, pages 14-18 of the Malin Little Klamath Lake. and to accom­ issue: and #10. pages 83-86 of the plish this it was necessary to cut a Langell Valley-Bonanza issue. There channel for 1112 miles tl1rough the remains considerable more infor­ natural cane that covered this strip of mation which concerns the Klamath dividing land between White and Lit­ Basin. particularly the Henley area tle Klamath Lake. and to accomplish and the people who promoted the this he had to use long 'hay knives.' various enterprises. cut the sod into chunks and then pull First let us return to J.O. Hamaker them out of the water like cakes of ice. and continue his rermrnscences: This was a hazardous job as the boys ·•Anoth er mark of interest toward the would fall in almost daily into that development of Klamath County was mud and slime, which made them not the digging of the Van Brimmer Ditch presentable for an evening's enter­ from what is now known as White tainment among the Four-Hundred. Lake. being in that part of the country However. Adams was one of those in 1883 when the Van Brimmer people that never knew what it was to brothers were exploiting their venture weaken on a job so the thing was of irrigation in company with Peter eventually completed. giving Mr. Shook, my riding companion, we were Adams .the better and larger reservoir attracted to a little knoll and we rode of water to draw from for Irrigating. over to find that the Boys were about "There are very few people that to finish the ditch and spill the first realize that Mr. Adams is entitled to water of Irrigation on the lands of the the Honor of being the cause directly Merrill country. Well. we spent about and indirectly of the present Irrigation 15 or 20 minutes and saw the first oi Klamath Cotmty. but to him should water that ever flowed through the be given the greatest degree of praise Van Brimmer Canal run wild across for this manner of Development of the sagebrush of that part of the coun­ Klamath Countv todav. Names such try and what was afterward to be one as the ' Ada~s Fl~e. · 'Adams of the greatest Alfalfa fields of Canal.· and other names should be Klamath County, thus proving that commemorated to the early historical water would run down hill and development of this wonderful country. demonstrating the same to a successful " Following the mark set by Adams. conviction of some of the skeptical the Ankeny Canal was built. thus that it was a fact patent that the Lake marking the second milestone in such was higher than the valley on the development. This was taken from the other side of the dividing line, hence town 'Link River ditch' which was this was later made into what is now enlarged and conveyed water through the Adams Ditch. Altamont and out to the Henley "Now, in connection with the Van Ranch." 41 ------,

History has informed us that the ence on the west side of Link River first irrigation system in the Linkville north of the present Favell Museum. area was inaugurated in 1878. This East of Link River and north of writer is of the opinion that some Link River Bridge was a very fertile earlier irrigation of lands along Link flat lying between present Conger River mtLst have taken place at a Avenue and the river. It was ap­ much earlier date. proximately one half mile in length Following this line of reasoning, we and at first belonged to George Nurse. have found that Robert A. Emmit, At some very early date, after Link­ pioneer of 1875, remembered in 1937 ville was founded in 1867, Nurse must that "The first irrigation ditch con­ have planted an orchard and berries, structed in Klamath CotLnty is still in or hired it done. and each year a gar­ use in the Riverside community of den. Several early newspaper articles Klamath Falls. The property owners prove this to be a fact. bought the water right with the land Jacksonville Democratic Times. and to this day do not pay for July 1. 187!. "Black crickets are ap­ irrigating water. !Remains of this ditch pearing in immense numbers and are are in evidence at the present time proving very destructive to grain and -- Editor). A man named Thatcher all small vegetables excepting peas. (Pioneer of 1868 -- Editorl built the They are so numerous that small first irrigation on the west side (Of creeks have become dammed with Link River - - Editor}. " their dead bodies, and the stench is Approximately the upper !h mile of said to be awful. George Nurse's gar­ this ditch was enlarged. first in 1877 den has been destroyed to the extent for the Wm. S. Moore Sawmill, then of $1.000 by them. They have not in­ in 1884 for the Martin Flour Mill and jured the grass yet and the stock looks finally in 1909 for the Moore Brothers well." West Side Electrical Plant. This A letter from J. M. Sutton. Editor of original ditch was constructed as far the Ashland Tidings, June 17, 1876 south as the old L. Alvie Lewis place while on a visit into the Klamath east of Riverside Street at its southern Country states: " * * * among the extremity. The Ashland Tidings of noticeable features of this place is the February 8. 1878 wrote: "The fine gardens. I made an examination irrigation ditch is completed on the of the orchard and gardens belonging west side of Link River. '' At one time to Uncle George Nurse, and I can it was planned to extend this ditch, truly say that in no particular can they enlarged, into the Plevna-Keno area. be excelled in Oregon. His orchard is With this in mind a right-of-way was loaded with fruit. The berries remind once secured across what is now the me of Ashland. He has a very exten­ Reames Golf and Country Club sive potato field, and will be able to (Merganser I. supply the market with many Emmit's statement is more or less thousand pounds. Even tobacco is borne out by the old 1874 Linkville growing most luxuriantly, and gives photo by Peter Britt of Jacksonville, promise of more than an ordinary as well as other early photos of West yield." Linkville. At that time (1874) a Joseph Conger who came to Link­ flourishing crop of corn and perhaps ville in the late '60's seems to be the potatoes made possible only by some man who planted the orchard and sort of irrigation, were then in exist- berries at the north end of the Link 42 River Flat which Sutton mentioned in 1876 as " Nurse's Orchard." It also seems to have been this Latter year that Conger bargained for the land that since that time has been known as "Conger's Orchard." He received the deed to this land, 2.92 acres from Nurse on July 8, 1878. It is this writer's contention that so extensive an operation could not have produced so highly without some kind of irrigation. There seems to have been two possible sources for water. One, a ditch out of Link River at the head of the aforementioned flat, perhaps diverted by a hand built rock dam below Wilson Island. Present day research might settle this supposition. Second, tapping the artesian oold water springs which at one time arose near but west and below present Conger Avenue. The old Evan William Steele Reames property was the location of 1823-1888 the most southern of these artesian springs. This latter theory is suggested Cranston's place was in block 34, by an article in the Morning Express south of Main Street, across from the of December, 1909: "In Link River Willard Hotel between Second and canyon are several large cold springs Third Streets. Therefore the ditch to of artesian character which flow into be in operation by the spring of 1878 Link River." This Link River Flat lies must have been built in 1877 or some 30 to 40 feet below the original before, probably supplying water to and later ditch, known in the early the Link River Flat gardens enroute. 1900's as the Ankenv Ditch. This in part is proven by an article in An article in the ·Ashland Tidings the Ashland Tidings of February 8. of September 14, 1878 by P erkyns 1878: ''A small amount of work yet states: "The ditch, which conveys remains to remove some lava ridges water from the upper rapids to the which separate the two divisions of western portion of the town, has East Linkville." proven a decided success. Through its This ditch according to latter day aid Hon. S. B. Cranston and some historians is supposed to have been in­ others have raised first class gardens corporated in 1878 as "The Linkville on what was very dry soil, proving Ditch Company" by a number of conclusively that through judicious Linkville citizens. It had a capacity of irrigation, the dryest land of the Lake forty miners inches. The water it country may be made to yield the carried was used to grow vegetables on finest crops." town lots. The significance of this article is T he Ashland Tidings of April 16, that Cranston with the aid of 1880: "The Linkville Water Ditch irrigation raised a "first class garden." Company at its annual meeting elected 43 the following Directors, J.N.T. purchases one half interest in the Miller, Pres.. Jos. Conger. J.W. ditch * * * Hamaker, Geo. T. Baldwin. Sec., and October 11, 1900: " Ditch enlarging Sikes Worden." to start next spring* * * •· William Steels came to the Klamath November 8. 1900: " We are infor· Country in the summer of 1884. After med that H.E. Ankeny, Capitalist of securing an interest in the Linkville Eugene, who bought a half interest in Ditch he commenced in 1885 to the irrigation ditch at this point a enlarge and extend it into the main month ago, will be here the latter part KJamath Valley. He operated the ditch of this week to confer with J. Henley, until his death in 1888, after which the owner of the ditch. in regard to a new company, incorporated under enlarging and improving the property. the title of "The Klamath Falls We are told that the capacity of the Irrigation Company" was formed. ditch will be at least doubled for ser· This company took over the Steele vice next year and will be enlarged rights and enlarged the canal to a thereafter in accordance with the capacity of 50 second feet. The canal demand for water. As we understand, ran in a southeasterly direction from it is Mr. Ankeny's idea to keep the · Linkville a distance of about eight ditch of sufficient size to meet all ' miles where it divided into an easterly requirements, and it is unnecessary to and southerly branch. The ditch say that he has abundant capital with probably never irrigated more than which to carry out his intention." 4000 acres, although the system com· February 28, 1901: "The Klamath manded a much larger area. Exactly Falls Irrigating Ditch company will who the stock holders were has not meet next Monday for the purpose of been determined but were evidently electing officers. and at that time will the William Steele heirs. consider proposed enlargement of the Beginning on October 4, 1899, and ditch. Such enJargement will be ap· ending February 6, 1902. The proved by everybody. And the greater KJamath Republican printed a series tl1e enlargement the better." of articles which more or less tel1 the March 21, 1901: "The Klamath story of the Steele Ditch and its sue· Falls Irrigating Ditch Co. commenced cessors: Monday with a large force of men to October 4. 1899: "California parties clean out and widen the ditch. At the have been here during the past week point where the ditch receives water investigating matters with a view of from the river, a new gate has been building a mammoth irrigation ditch put in , 24 feet wide, being double the leading from the big Klamatl1 Lake. width of the old one, and giving at What conclusions were reached we did least double the amount of water when not learn. It is hoped the project will the enlargement of the ditch is com· mature, for it would add value to pleted next fall." thousands of acres of land." May 9. 1901: " * * * widening April12, 1900: " The ditch company finished on Klamath Falls Irrigating have a large force of men at work Ditch and the crew left to work on the cleaning out the irrigating ditch and Bly irrigation works. * * * " preparing it for use. Therefore in a May 23. 1901: " J.L. Hanks and his few days the gardens and fields will son, Marion Hanks, are making great rejoice in an abundance of water." improvements on their land on Big October 4, 1900: "Henry Ankeny Klamath lake (At Pelican City -- 44 Editor) and near town. J.L. Hanks February 18, 1904 it was reported that has just put up a wind mill and com­ C. W. Hawkins and A. K. Brown of pleted a flume for irrigating purposes, the new irrigation company were and Marion Hanks whose land joins " talking tunnel" (Instead of a cut the rapids. is putting in a large current through the hill-- Editod. By June wheel and pump. by which water can 9th articles of incorporation of the be raised thirty feet for irrigation. Klamath Canal Company were filed, Thus they wilJ make valuable for and by August 11th, one third of the cultivation and crops a large tract of work on the tunnel was completed. A land hitherto nearly worthless for want week later, J. Frank Adams had twen­ ol water." (A ditch 30 feet above the ty teams at work on the canal. By lake level would have served the land November 3rd. U.S. Reclamation sur­ through which the present irrigation veyors had entered the field and on canal leads to the tunnel and the December 22nd, the Klamath Canal Conger School flat. Further extended Company offered to sell to the land it would have reached the Shippington owners. and Pelican City area -- Editor). Lengthy and extended negotiations October 3, 1901: "When the between the Government and various irrigating ditch is enlarged, it can be ex1stmg 1rngation companies were used by boats on the Upper Klamath eventually ironed out with the result lake in making closer connection with that the Klamath Falls Irrigation this place. If the width of the ditch is Company (The Steele-Ankeny Ditch increased to twenty five feet, as is con­ successors) was paid $47,530.65 and templated, it will accommodate as the Klamath Canal Company large boats as will be necessary on the !Hawkins and Brown) $150,000. In lake for many years to come. Thus the the meantime on December 29, 1905 mile or two between here and the bids were opened by the Government present landing can be easily ob­ for the construction of nine miles of viated." Main Canal, structures. and the lining February 6, 1902: "It is reported of a new tunnel. The Klamath Canal that the irrigation company instead of Company tunnel was abandoned and further enlarging the ditch in town, remains there today (to the north of will cut a ditch or canal through the the present tunnel) abandoned and hill, where it ought to have been at the unused. start. This will be good for land So much for the early history of owners outside of town, as such a irrigation in the Linkville area up to ditch will give twice the water and the summer of 1884. It was at that irrigate at least double the land it now time that William Steele arrived in does. It will also save the continued Klamath County from Reno. Nevada. annoyance and damage to residents Born in Ireland in 1823. he came to and owners on Main street, and avoid America in 1841, locating first in possible expensive litigation. We learn Michigan, and later in Wisconsin. from those who have investigated, that William Steele and Esther Ann the cut through the hill will cost no Johnston were married in 1853. Their more than to enlarge the ditch as it first child Sophia was born in 1854. has heretofore been done." Another daughter, Fannie. date of This latter plan was the one even­ birth unknown, and a third daughter. tually adopted. By May 7. 1903 it was Minnie Emily born in 1857 were the reported the " Big Canal a go.·· and on children born to this union. The Steele 45 family crossed the plains to Nevada in Sophia Steele, we find that after her 1861, stopping in Virginia City. marriage to Asa E. Foster she had two Sophia married, first Asa Foster in children, both girls, Sara Emma horn 1872, and after his death in 1877, in Reno in 1870, and Lucy Theone in James T. Henley in 1882. She passed 1876. Foster, a stock raiser and school away in 1938. Fannie married J. teacher, died in 1877. Frank Adams in 1888 and passed Sophia married for her second away in 1900. Minnie Emily married husband, James T. Henley, a mining first G.W.J. Wilson in 1878, and after engineer of Reno, on January 10, his death in 1901, Frank Ward in 1882. A son James Thomas was hom 1902. She was still living in 1940 when to this union on April 22, 1886. Later the History of Klamath County, 1941, that same year, Mrs. Henley came to was written. Klamath County to visit her parents, William Steele settled on land near Mr. & Mrs. Wm. Steele. Upon her present Reno. He organized an return to Reno, her praise of the irrigation district, later to become Klamath country was so great that the known as the Cochran Irrigation family moved here in November of the Ditch. He became an "outstanding up­ same year. builder" of Reno. In the summer of James T. Henley's name first ap­ 1884 he came to Klamath County in pears in Klamath County Deed search of range for his stock and soon Records on January 17, 1889 when he became interested in irrigation in this received a deed from James Carson for area. Commencing in 1885, he began the land west of Highway #39, which construction of what later became was to become the foundation of the known as the Steele Ditch, the exten­ Henley Home Ranch. Probably this sion and enlargement of the previously land had previously belonged to Ben­ described Linkville Ditch Company jamin Howard and Z. V. Stiles. Henley system. He worked on this project un­ at one time owned approximately 1000 til his death in October, 1888. He was acres in the Henley district. Mr. the first man to grow allalla commer­ Henley was born in Indiana in 1853, cially in the county. migrating to Nevada early in life to Klamath County Deed Records do become a mining engineer. He became not indicate whether Mr. Steele owned a leader in the agricultureal circles of land or not. However, on Ocrober 14, Klamath County and made the largest 1890 P.R. Fuson transferred property contribution towards the railroad of east of present Highway 1139 where the any of the citizens of Klamath Falls. present Henley School system stands, He, together with a brother-in-law, to Esther Ann Steele. Later, on G. W .J. Wilson carried on the February 2, 1899 the State of Oregon operation of the Steele ditch until 1901 gave a deed for the same property to when both men passed away, Mr. the Esther Ann Steele Estate. At Henely in San Francisco and Mr. about the same time Sophia S. Wilson in Klamath Falls. Henley, et al, deeded to Henry, Ed­ Fannie Steele became the wife of J. ward and George Bloomingcamp on Frank Adams and to this union three January 17, 1899 the same property, boys, William Walter. J. Frank, Jr .. 485. 497 acres for $4,855.00. Further and Robert Steele. were born. The research might reveal when William history of J . Frank Adams in Klamath Steele actually bargained for this land. Echoes #7, Merrill-Keno, and #8, Turning now to the history of Malin, is quite fully developed. 46 Wilton Bridge, looking northeoat toward Loat River Gap In the background. G.W.J. Wllaan home In trMt at left. Maude Baldwin Photo

Minnie Emily Steele married death in 1901. George Washington Johnson Wilson, Minnie Emily next, in 1902, who was operating a farm next to married Frank Ward, who had come Wm. Steele in 1878. the year of their to the Klamath country in 1885. Mr. marriage. They remained near Reno Ward purchased a ranch, but also until 1885 when they came to Klamath clerked in hotels. At one time he was County to assist Mr. Steele in his an assistant to J. Frank Adams. He irrigation project. The Wilsons settled engaged in the fuel business in just north of what later became Wilson Klamath Falls and the real estate Bridge on Lost River. It was while business with Captain O.C. Ap· living there that Mr. Wilson journeyed plegate. He was also engaged in the to Adin, California, by buckboard, sheep business for several years. In securing three sacks full of poplar tree 1907 he purchased a general merchan· cuttings which he set out as a nursery dise store in the Willits Building in the on his place. This act resulted in the 400 Block on Main Street which he many poplar groves dotting the ran for 11 years under the name of Henley district and lining several of Ward and Obenchain. He died the main roads in that district. In January 4. 1935. Minnie Emily was recent years, many of the latter have still alive in 1940 when the above been cut down and burned. biographies were written for the The Wilsons remained at that History of Klamath County. location until 1892 when they moved Sophia (Steele) Henley's first born to Klamath Falls where Mrs. Wilson girl. Sara Emma Foster, came to the took charge of the old Linkville Hotel Klamath Country with her parents in and ran it for three years. In 1895 1886. Seven years later, in 1893 she they purchased the Ewauna property was married to Oswald H. Harsh­ (formerly the George Nurse home on barger. a native of Wisconsin. Mr. the northwest corner of Fourth and Harshbarger came to Linkville in 1889 Main Streets) which they operated as where he was employed by Reames a boarding house until Mr. Wilson's and Martin in the Old Brick Store. 47 Later he was in partnership with Fred de ignate the place to put the well. Goeller in the planning mill. The Mrs. Henley selected a place close to Harshbarger "home extended !rom the the back porch to save steps. Soon the Judge M oore place up the river (North work began, and in less than an hour of Main treet and west of Link the well was rocked in ready for use at River. or where Favell's Mu eum is eight feet where there was a spring of now located -- Editorl, and in­ cold water, soft and palatable. with a cluded the Riverside School site. constant flow. Mr. Henley was so It is LO Sara Emma Harshbarger pleased be asked his wife to select a that we owe the following comprehen­ location for a well for the farm stock. sive account of the Henlev district. he went into the barnyard and written for The Historv of Klamath designated a place. The result was a County. 1941. by Rachael Applegate deeper well and of warm mineral Good. page 182-184: water that is relished by the cattle. "This is the storv of the Henley especially in the cold weather. Thirty­ Home Ranch. not .the storv of th~ five years after the selection of the Henley School District of fo~ or fi ve successful wells it was necessary to thousand acres that is named for and find good palatable water for the influenced by the Liie and efforts of Henley ranch on acreage half a mile Sophia Steele Henley. Mrs. Henley from the home place. There had been first came to Klamath County on a several poor water wells in the valley visit to her parents. Mr. and Mrs. so Mrs. Henley's son asked her for the William teele. in 1886. Irrigation was third selection. and again he was suc­ in its infancy at this time. but the cesdul. Mr. Henley built a fi ve-room. re ult was satisfactory. They simply two- tory house adjoining the three­ had to clear the sage brush. plow and room Carson house. a bunkhouse for seed. water the sandv soil and with lit­ the cowboys. and barns for horses and tle care there was ·an abundance of cattle. vegetation for stock and man -­ ''The English poplar and locust well formed. nutritious. and of excep­ trees Mr. G.W. ] . Wilson , her tional flavor. Mrs. Henley returned to brother-in-law, had grown were soon Nevada so enthusiastic in her prai e of large enough to plant. Mrs. Henley the land that Mr. Henley sold hi secured a large number and some cork holdings and with Mrs. Henley. hi bark elm. silver poplar, and lom­ mall on James T.. Jr.. and a bardys. They planted them as a long Chinese boy. Gee Sing. they arrived in wind break four tree deep south o£ Klamath Countv in November. A man the house. about the yard , and a who had been. a neighbor of Mr. quarter of a mile on both sides of the Steele in Nevada had taken up 320 county road. Mrs. Henley held each acres adjoining him but wished to tree in place while M r. Henley put the return to Nevada. There was a little soil about it. With the help of the three-room hou e partly built, and the Chinese boy. Sing. a large vegetable land had a slough running through it garden was made. A quarter of an which made a good location for a cat­ acre of asparagus that wa delectable tle feed yard. Mr. Henley assembled treat in early spring. a strawberry bed , tool for digging a well. as the ranch red. yellow. and black raspberries wa a part of the Lost River desert. were successfully grown. large English He was anxious to divide respon­ gooseberries and pie goo eberrie . sibility o asked Mrs. Henley to black. white. and large red currants. 48 apples and plums. Enough were grown so that the neighbors came to pick on shares. When the place was comlortable. a lawn was put in. It was a difficult feat. as every drop of water had to be pumped into the ho e and sprinkled or put into sprinkling cans and carried about. It was worth the labor. however. as the south half of the lawn has not been disturbed in 48 years and it is still in excellent con­ dition in 1940 . .. Animals of manv kinds have been fostered on the H eniey Ranch. Always there have been faithful dogs: at times a pet faun, rabbits. and even an odorless skunk. Hogs were an invest­ ment. and sheep made a living for the family. The most disastrous ex­ periment was the first venture in cattle the ' hard winter of 1889.' Mr. H enlf Sophia Steele Henley bought 600 head of stock cattle an 1854· 1938 several Large stacks of hay to feed them and situated them on the Big Lake at a point called Naylox. Snow in 1901. Mr. Steele. Mrs. Henley's fell for days. the wind blew it into father. left hi:s irrigatiuu inttm~:; t:; to drifts and freezing weather followed. his children. Mrs. H enley became well The snow drifts lasted till late spring known to all users of water. since. and the stock could not be properl y being most interested and active of the fed or watered. The calves died of heirs in that line, she secured a one­ cold. the cows starved with hay in hall interest. Mr. Ankeny acquired the sight. and in the spring warm weather other half. melted ice and snow and covered the ''The electric lighting of Klamath hay half way up the stacks. Le than County wa encouraged by the a hundred cows survived to be driven availability of power from the upper to the ranch. where they were saved mile of the irrigation ditch. Thus Mrs. by feeding them from the large pits of Henley became acquainted and potatoes. carrots. rutabaga and cab­ associated with that project. The bage. telephone was put into the Henley " The great quantity of currents home, one of the first in the valley. supplied both white and red wine. and was used by neighbors far and Bees did well and Mrs. Henley had near. day or night. Automobiles quite an apiary. Turkeys did well. but brought neighbors nearer, but. though the market was too far away and Mrs. H enley wa friendly and tran portation poor. Alfalfa, beets, and generous. she eldom went away from many kinds of grains and clover all her home unless on business. Her doors flourished. and potatoe responded were never locked. even when she bountifully. went to town to lay all night and left ''Mr. Henley died in San Francisco no one else at home. She was often 49 alone in her house during the 50 years stage settings, flowers, decorations of it was her home. There never was a many kinds, tools and even last disasterous fire, no dreadful accident minute refreshments were freely and with stock or guns -- just a normal cheerfully given. The most important life for any and all who lived there. item was water from the well at the When railroads finally came to back door. Water was not found to be Klamath, the Southern Pacific had to palatable any place on the school's ten cut an 80-acre tract of Mrs. Henley's acres. Large milk cans of drinking land diagonally in two. While it was water were taken every morning and not on the home ranch, it was often cans of milk. This was a distressing, as the highway was medium of more friendly chats and located along the side of the right of better acquaintances. And now. in way also. Next was the Great Nor­ 1940, the school obtains water for its thern, and no place would do them for vast plant from the location designated a right of way but the west side of the in Mrs. Henley's third location of a garden and the wind break of a hun­ well on her ranch. dred or more trees. Forty years they " It seems little wonder that when had been growing but must be the district was to be named Mrs. destroyed for the good of the country. Bradbury and C. Short, her friends on The Great Northern paid a good price the School Board, suggested the name and named the station Henley. Henley." "The school at Pine Grove was Finally, a note from Klamath Coun­ moved to a piece of land consisting of ty Deed Records, Book #1. page 25: ten acres which was bought from Ed The State of Oregon deeded ap­ Bloomingcamp, but was a part of proximately 126.3 acres (This land lies Mrs. Henley's father's home ranch near the eastern end of the East-West just opposite Mrs. Henley's home. runway of the Klamath Falls The school children all knew Mrs. Munic.ipal Airport -- Editor) to Henley. as did their parents. Her W.W. Thayer for $158.60 on Septem­ home contributed much to the social ber 30. 1872. W.W. Thayer later, in life of the school; costumes for plays, 1878. became the Governor of Oregon.

Altamont llllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll The first settlers to secure land im­ proximately halfway between the mediately east of Linkville were railroad and the Government A Canal. Joseph and Deliah Stukel, in 1868, The Brooks tract was greatly enlarged and Quincy A. and Lizzie Brooks, by J'rom time to tin1e. On December 14, no later than November 21. 1872. 1899 it became the home of William The Stukel home was in the grove A. Wright, the father of Dr. George I. of trees, still standing, below the Wright. Government A Canal near the junc­ After buying the Stukel property, tion of A val on and Eberlein Streets. George Nurse added considerably The Stukels sold to George Nurse on more acreage in the vicinity through November 26. 1877. Quincy A. and purchase of State lands. On July 14, Lizzie Brooks lived north of Main 1879 he sold forty acres to Jay Beach. Street near the hot springs ap- This tract of land is presently occupied 50 ,•

Altamont Store and Post OHice about 1893-1894. Location was near the present Paylen Store In the Town and Country Shopping Ce nter. John RatiiH on the wagon, G.W. Smith Is the large man on the porch at right. by the Klamath County Fairgrounds It is recorded that G. W. Smith in on the north side of South Sixth 1885. shortly after coming to Linkville Street. It is clajmed that Jay Beach in 1883. purchased land in the once had a race track there upon "Altamont COtmtry." Klamath Coun­ which the nationally famous trotting ty Deed Records show that G. W. horse Altamont was trained. In regard Smith on January 26. 1886 received a to the fa mous trotter. The Klamath deed to 320 acres of land from the Republican of December ll, 1902 State. to which later more land was reported: "Altamont. one of the added. This land of Smith's lies south greatest speed horses on the coast, of South Sixth Street between died at Binghamton, California, Altamont Drive and Summers Lane. November 13, aged 27 years. Until a During 1886 G. W. Smith few years ago Altamont belonged to established a general merchandise Jay Beach of Fort Klamath in Oregon, store on his property located who purchased him in Kentucky. At southeasterly from the junction of the time of ills death he was owned by Crest Street and South Sixth, 200-300 J.M. Nelson of Alameda. " Thus a feet east of the giant ''Town and name for a community was born. It is Country Sign." claimed the name Altamont is of By January 30, 1895 a post office of Spanish derivation meaning " high Altamont was established with G. W. motmtain. " Smith as postmaster. presumably in 51 the Smith general merchandise store. as a trading point is seen in the crowds The first returns for the post office up of vehicles and horses from every to July 1, 1895 amounted to $17.11. point, Klamath Falls included. Four years later. on July 1, 1899 the gathered there daily and nightly for returns amounted to $72.90. Again, trade with the big-hearted, big· four years later, on July l, 1901 the brained and big-bodied Judge. No ret1.1rns amounted to but $87.66. It trader with an abiding faith in printers will therefore be seen that business ink has yet failed, and the Judge's passing through the Altamont post of· large and liberal business, daily read fice was very small. Finally on in the Star by about every hearthside February 10, 1902 the post office was in Klamath land, has a liberal space discontinued with mail transferred to in the memory of every man and the Klamath Falls office. woman who rides out to trade. The The Klamath Star of Thursday. Judge is one of the large men of March 21. 1895 had a somewhat dif­ Oregon, as the echoing success of ferent prophesy for the future of the Altamont will proclaim him in the office than that which actually tran­ near future." spired as will be seen by the following Klamath Star. April 18, 1895. article: '·Altamont -- The nucleus "Altamont City's post office is now in of a future town with a fine prospect. full blast, and the mail received there "The flourishing condition of is already large and rapidly growing. Altamont is now the talk of the whole The postmaster, Judge Smith, is the countryside. (Much ado about one or founder of the future big town of two buildings, since none of the Altamont, and is a hearty. old-school following took place -- Editor) Democrat with kindly feelings toward Judge Smit.h has oow in hi~ pockel hi~ the principals of P opulism." commission as postmaster of that Due to the illness of Judge Smith, place, and everybody who goes over he and his heirs incorporated under there sees the nucleus of a future town the name of G. W. Smith Real Estate with a fine prospect. Around Altamont Company on September 3, 1903. All will soon cluster several more property was transferred to that firm buildings. Hammers and saws will in consequence. soon echo in the raising of a large Klamath Republican. July 14. blacksmith and wagon shop, a fine 1904: "Alex Martin, Jr. received a hotel. a saloon and a few dwellings. telegram from San Diego. California, "Altamont is favorably situated for Monday, announcing the death of merchantile business, being on the 11:30 that morning of Judge Geo. W. main highway of the country's travel Smith, of heart disease. The deceased and traffic, and nowhere else in the has been under the doctor's care for county can business be done with the several years, and the end was not people so advantageously. Where can unexpected. His wife was the only the farmer or stockraiser so readily ex· member of his family present at the change his stock or grain, hay or time of his death, although his son vegetables, butter, eggs or other farm George, who lives at Eugene, Ore., product for goods? And where else can arrived shortly afterwards, and will he find prices cut down to railroad have charge of the arrangements for dimensions with only cost of freight the funeral. The body will probably be added? shipped to Klamath Falls for inter· "The wonderful success of Altamont ment. 52 ..George Washington Smith was destruction to its remoteness !rom the born in Louisville. Ky .. July 7. 1839. burning town. The hotel and store and later moved with his parents to were rebuilt, but in 1892 two vears af­ Washington county. Mo .. where he at­ ter its completion the ho.tel was tended the public schools and later reduced to ashes. The merchandise worked at the blacksmith trade with business was disposed of in 1901. and his father: eventually they embarked in June 1902, he removed with his in the saw-milling business. June 20, wife to Phoenix. Arizona near which 1859. he married Margaret Delmar, place be purchased 229 acres of land who was born in North Carolina. from in the Salt River Valley. He spent where she removed with her parents to several months of Ia t year at Klamath Mi souri as a child. Two year after Falls and this summer he was com· this marriage. the father of Mr. mith pelled to leave Arizona on account of was killed in the Washington County the heat and has been in San Diego sawmill and the son succeeded to both some time under the care of a the management and ownership of the prominent physician. business. Owing to the depression in "A Democrat during his entire trade incident to the Civil War he sold voting life. Judge Smith gained his of­ the mill in 1861 and in October. 1862, ficial title in 1884, when he was elec· left Missouri for New York City. ted Judge of Klamath County. serving where be embarked for Calilornia by four years. Again he sat on the bench way of the Isthmus of Panama . from 1890-1892 filling an unexpired .. Arriving in San Francisco at the term. In keeping with his substan­ age of 24. and with $15. comprising tiality and influence in the community hi worldly possessions. he went to is his association with the foremost Virginia City. and completed his fraternal organizations of the west. He trade. following the same alter his was a member of the Blue Lodge No. removal to Santa Clara county in 77, A.F. & A.M. of Klamath Falls: of 1865. Previous to 1879 he combined Mayfield Lodge. No. 193, I.O.O.F. of general fa rming and working in a shop Santa Clara county. California. and on his land, and in that year removed Mountain View Lodge A.O.U. W. oi to Siskiyou County. where for five Santa Clara County. California. years he was president and superin­ "The deceased is survived by his tendent of the Scott Rjver Ditch and ·wife and seven out of their family of Mining Company. eleven children: Mary Emily. wife of ''In 1883 be sold his intere t and W.C. Johnson. of anta Cruz. Cal.: moved to Klamath County, purchased Martha Frances, wife of Alex Martin. the Linkville Hotel, remodeled and Jr. of Klamath Falls, Ore.: W. refurnished the same, and placed it Walter, a merchant and rancher of on a paying basis. In 1885 he pur­ Bly. Ore.; George H. of Eugene. Ore.: chased 760 acres of land three miles Horatio E.; who was recently in east of Klamath Falls, combining the business at Merrill: Jennie. wile of management of this property with his Frank Miner. of Phoenix. Ariz.: and hotel. and adding yet another respon· Richard S. Smith. a graduate oi the sibility in 1886 in the shape of a U. of Ore. and of the Columbia Law general merchandise store. The only School. who is coaching the Oregon one of this trio of interests to escape University football team this fall.·· the conflagation of 1889 was the farm Novem"ber 15. 1905 the Smith Real which owed its immunity from Estate Company deeded a right-of- 53 Wheat cr op on the Altamont Ranch. Maude Baldwin Photo. way to the Klamath Water Users in turn sold to the Klamath Develop· Association for an irrigation ditch into ment Company on July 16, 1910. the Central Klamath Basin. The Klamath Evening Herald of December 10, 1906 the Smith Real May 27, 1911 announced that the Estate Company deeded to George Altamont Tavern (Located on South Nolan, et ux (Richard Shore Smith Sixth Street between the Town and -- Editor), property in the amount Country Shopping Center and Sum­ of $49,000. mers Lane -- Editor) was serving Three days later the Klamath excellent meals, and were planning on Republican of December 13, 1906 building a large bam so that freight reported: "The grading that is being teams could be accommodated over· done on Sixth street, while temporarily night. Further, " * * * the new dan­ suspended on account of the storm has cing pavilion IOnce known as The progressed far enough to show that Oasis -- Editor) is now in course of when the work is completed it will be e.rection and will be completed within one of the best streets in the city." a few days." The Klamath Republican of May Our attention must now turn to 16, 1907 reported that " * * * a short Klamath Falls, where on August 24, time ago Nolan and Smith purchased 1915 it was reported by the Evening the Klamath FaUs Jersey Dairy from Herald that " * * * through activities B.F. Loosley and removed it to of 'Bill' Lee and the Commercial Club Altamont under the management of an automobile camp ground was R.E. Bradbury." established back of Underwoods (North­ Next, on May 6, 1909 Richard S. east corner of 7th & Main Streets Smith sold his one half interest in the -- Editor) and facing on Pine St." Altamont Ranch to J.D. Carroll, a It would have space £or 15 machines transfer of some 880 acres. The entire and would have water on the lot. tract, 880 and 318.15 acres was next W.A. Delzell and Geo. T. Baldwin sold on May 7, 1910 to the Altamont were other prime backers. Investment Company of Seattle, who By June 19, 1916 the Evening 54 Herald was asking for volunteers for association. (This park was located the following day to clear brush. etc. where Favells Museum is now situated from the lot back of the old Linkville --Editor) Hotel (Now the western end of April 26. 1922 the Evening Herald Veteran's Park Editor) for reported that the Klamath Falls camp " visiting automobiles." ground was to be improved by adding Evening Herald. October 3, 1918. two or more sheds, enough to shade 25 " Work on the new county paved road cars. The Chamber of Commerce was from the end of Sixth street past the to bear part of the expense together Altamont ranch, which was expected with garages. restaurants, delicatessens to have been completed early this and business houses. After completion, month, has been hindered by wet a fee of 25c ~r dav would be chareed. weather conditions to such an extent By August -2nd, of the same year, that it will probably not be finished the city was casting about for another now until about October 25. according or better site for an auto camp to Contractor J .H. Garrett." ground. The Drake estate between On November 4, 1918 a contract for Conger Avenue and Link River was grading and macadamizing 14.6 miles suggested. It consisted of an acre and of road between the Merrill-Lakeview a half, which had been improved by Junction and the city of Merrill was Drake but never built upon. It was let to Oscar Huber of Portland. thought that 75 to 100 cars could be Oregon. This section of the planned accommodated at one time, if a The Dalles-California Highway system grounds keeper was on hand. The was to cost nearly $190,000. It was price asked was $7,500. Nothing came under the supervision of engineer of this plan. W.T. Darley with the expense of con· Evening Herald. April 15, 1924: struction split three ways; Klamath " Lack of sanitation adjoining Modoc County, $45.000; The State of Oregon (The Hot Springs Bath House site, $49, 732; and the U.S. Government, now the Modoc Athletic Field House $95,000. Cost of gravel alone per mile -- Editor) park and Riverside was $450.00. (Present Favell Museum site -­ Evening Herald. June 19. 1919: " Editor) park may cause the ejection of * * * a new camp ground is under transient campers." Riverside at the construction. * * * Free wood, water, time was under the City Park Board proper plumbing and conveniences for while the Modoc site was under cooking will be furnished. * * * It will private ownership. ''The public camp be larger than either of the other two * ground at Altamont ranch may be * *." This last camp ground was near used by people now camping in the the Hot Spring Bath House, now the outskirts of the city, it was pointed Modoc Athletic Field House. out. Many of these are believed to be On Monday, May 9, 1921, the people who were unable to find places Evening Herald was again asking for to live in town, and who have been volunteers to clean and level the west forced to find makeshift dwellings side park site for an auto camp temporarily." ground. W.T . Lee was to be consulted Evening Herald. June 25, 1924: for instructions on the cleanup days, " In ten days the old Altamont city Thursday and Friday. The announce­ auto park across from the fair grounds ment was made by R.C. Groesbeck, has undergone a transformation. Un­ president of the automobile der the supervision of Fred Garich the 55 Digging potatoes on the Altamont Ranch. Duncan Photo old Altamont ranch house is being known as The Dalles-California tom down and everything is to be Highway. The northwest corner lay remodeled. 16 tent houses have been 526.2 feet east of the intersection of for some time located on the east hall Crest and South Sixth Streets. It ex­ of the eight acre . 350 x 700 foot tract. tended easterly 547.0 feet. stopping A new entrance will be made in the approximately 245 feet short of the center ol the tract and plans for 20 center of Summers Lane. It extended bungalows on the southern half are southward on an average of 615 fe.et being made. This can be accomplished toward the present Altamont School. by cutting only one of the poplar tree and included 7. 53 acres. There were grove. 30 to 50 cars per day will be two streets running north and outh. accommodated." Poplar Avenue to the west and Shasta By October lllh of the same year, Avenue to the east. Poplar probably Fred Gerry. manager of the auto park approximated the narrow alleyway by then known as "Poplar Grove.·· now adjoining Payless Drug Store on reported the registery of 1, 758 cars the east. The townsite was vacated with 7,032 people. December 7, 1933. A townsite of "Altamont·· was sur­ According to "Ninety Years of veyed by John C. Cleghorn for Klamath Schools. 1960" Altamont Pauline Buesing. F.M. Garich and school district #64 was cut from the AUie J. Garich who filed the plat on original school district (Klamath Falls March 29. 1926. The townsite of -- Editorl #1. The present (1960) "Altamont .. Lay outh of and adjoining school was erected in 1926. The Junior South Sixth Street. also at that time High School first met in the Summers 56 school in 1933-34. The 1930 list Center and the Altamont Elementary showed 9 teachers and 351 pupils. The School system. Stretching away to the present Junior High School building south. east and west are numerous ad­ was first used as a grade school and ditions and subdivisions where several now (1960) houses grades 7-8. By 1960 thousand people live. there were 13 elementary teachers and During the 1950's and 1960's 20 in the Junior High School. " The Oregon road maps distributed by old grade school building was several oil companies indicated by cer­ destroyed by fire a few years ago. tain symbols that the size of Altamont Where once stood the ranch home was the same as that of Klamath and general merchandise store of Falls. The symbol. a circle with a dot Judge G.W. Smith: the fields of in the center indicated a population of alfalfa and potatoes: the Altamont 10.000 to 25.000. Perhaps some day in dance pavilion. and the " Poplar the not too distant future Altamont Grove" auto camp ground, we now may grow in size to livP up to road find the Town and Country Shopping map representations. Letter Written By F.P. Cronemiller, Date Unknown (But after the Zip-Code went into effect) llllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllltllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll llllilllllllllllllllillllllllllll Letter written by *** F.P. Cronemiller, Date Unknown Mr. Laird who homesteaded Laird's !But after the Zip-Code went into ef· Landing at the south end of Lower feet) Klamath Lake knew my uncle (Jay Beach) and told me of a famous match * * * Jay Beach had a lot of race in which Uncle J ay and his op· mementos of Altamont. He was not ponent put up several thousand dollars only a race horse but a prepotent stud. a piece. Altamont lost the race and it I saw his son (Jay's) a few months almost broke Uncle Jay. He then put ago. He is now 90 years of age but has Altamont at stud. I got this story back a perfect memory. in 1921. At the time of the San Francisco Stanford went into the race horse earthquake and fire (1906) they were business in the 1890's (M y father once living near the City Hall and aher a worked on the Stanford Ranch at couple of days the fire got up their Vina, near Chico, California, and told way and they had to move out. many times of the training track They moved their stuff out into a located · there, and the racing stables nearby park and covered it with -- Editor). Before that I guess linoleum and carpets and got in the Altamont was the only really blooded buggy and drove out to Golden Gate horse in the west. But Stanford Park to locate a place to camp. On brought in some good stock and that their return they found a spark had really broke my uncle. He had quite a ignited their pile of stuff, furniture, stable at Hayward and he had to walk clothing and relics among which was a off and leave it. This was in 1898. H e fine painting of Altamont and other went to the Klondike, or Nome rather, mementoes. and came back broke again. 57 In 1905 he had developed a soda We haven't had any German com­ water business in San Francisco and panies in the U.S. since. But Uncle had seven delivery wagons operating Jay was broke again and he went in town. The stuff had become down to Sanger ~California -­ popular and business was fine. He was Editor) and raised peaches and did insured with a German Company and well. all of them welched on their policies. F.P. Cronemiller Midland 1111111111 '111111111111 '111'11 1111111111111111111111111 1111 11111111 Ill 1111111 1111 11111111111111111 111111111 111'11111111111111'111111 11111111 I

The eighth and ninth deeds issued President and D.G. Campbell, for land in what later became Assistant Secretary. At one time A.H. Klamath County were for 320 acres Naftzger was president of the ~ The East hall of Section 36, Town- Klamath D evelopment Company, who ship 39 South. Range 8 East), or what in turn was closely connected with the is now Midland. Southern Pacific Railroad interests. Louis Horne and his wile M .E. for The survey of the Midland townsite $184.00 deeded 160 acres to Jesse D. was finished December 4, 1906 and Carr on November 28. 1871. At the filed with Klamath County Clerk, same time. Heman Helms, and his George Chastain on January 5. 1907. wife Augusta V. for $200.00 deeded As the California ortheastern 160 acres to Jesse D . Carr. Neither Railroad (Southern Pacific) advanced Horne nor Helms had received deeds north from Weed we find that a con­ to their property prior to disposing of struction camp was set up by a man it. I n fact, they did not receive State named Sears at Midland on October l, Warrantee Deeds from the State of 1908. At times there were 300 men Oregon until December 12, 1871. In employed grading the road bed bet­ passing it is interesting to note that the ween Midland and the Junction of the first deed for property in Linkville was Southern Pacific and Great Northern not issued by the State of Oregon until tracks south of the Klamath Falls September 10, 1872, yet the property railroad switching yards. had been occupied since March of Shortly thereafter. on December 1867. This simply means that al- 1Oth. the first train reached Holland. though Linkville was settled in 1867. Later known as Ady at the crossing of payment to the State of Oregon was Klamath Straits. the outlet to Lower not completed until the above date in Klamath Lake. By February 4, 1909 1872. the marsh grade was hall done and the To follow the various ownerships of Reames Hill cut near Texum was the land that later became Midland. finished. One month later the dredges we find that Carr deeded the property working on the marsh grading had to John F . Miller on June 23, 1882. reached dry land south of Midland. Parts of the future town of Midland T he first work train reached passed through the hands of several Klamath Falls on M ay 3. 1909, and Millers, Ashel Bush, Klamath Coun- the first passenger train May 20th. It ty, E .P. M cCornack and Abner was on this latter date that a Weed. the latter selling on November delegation of Klamath Falls citizens 24, 1906 to the Midland Townsite traveled by the Steamer Klamath to Company, with A.H . Naftzger. Ady. boarded the passenger train 58 Southern Pacific Railroad depot at Midland. No longer In existence. there. and returned home on that first of the Midland Store. entry into Klamath Falls. Next. Mrs. Marie Gogolin became In the meantime. a post office was postmaster on October 6. 1961. Lastly established at Midland on March 17, Kathryn Smith. the present post­ 1909 with Ben Gallaway as post­ master. who moved to the Midland master. From its opening to July. 1909 country in 1954. became postmaster the returns amounted to but $5.00. August 28. 1968. For the next two years. to July l. 1911 The name of :Midland mav have the returns amounted to $1 00.00. June been derived from the fa ct that the 12. 1912 Ralph 0. Vincent became town is situated about halfway bet­ postmaster, followed on March 5. ween Klamath Falls and the Califor­ 1915 by Theodore D. Young. Edna L. nia-Oregon State Line. Flowers became the next postmaster The Evening Herald of April 30. on August 5. 1924. with her name 1923 announced that work which was later changed to Travers by marriage. under way on the new Midland High­ exact date unknown. Clark L. Leach way would be completed in 4 months. took over on May 31. 1953 followed or about September !st. This road by Mrs. J ennie L. Leach on December across the marsh was the connecting 15. 1953 . Link between Midland and Worden. On October 20, 1958 the post office Prior to that time it was necessary to was demolished due to a large truck travel from Klamath Falls to Keno, crashing into it. The location at that thence south. passing near T eeter's time was near the service station some Landing to Worden and on to Dorris, 200 feet north of the present post of­ California. This new route was fice. which is located in the south end destined to become the present U .5. I

The George J. Jory livery stable at Midland. No longer In existence. F.M. Priest Photo

Highway #97 across the Lower Miscellaneous bits of history con· Klamath Marsh £rom Oregon to cerning Midland and the nearby area Weed. California, where it joined the follow: Evening Herald. July l , Pacific Highway. U.S. Highway #99, 1912: "Tri-weekly train service has now Interstate #5. been established between Midland and The Midland community has been Chiloquin." served by two different schools. The railroad siding of Ady lies some District #37, Midland, was located 3'/z miles southerly from Midland. At approximately one fourth mile east of first known as Holland. that name was Highway #97 and south of the Old discontinued when it was discovered Midland Road. District #44, Miller there was already a Holland in Hill, was located on the southwest Josephine County, Oregon. The name corner of the intersection of Joe Ady was substituted in remembrance Wright and the Old Midland Roads. of Abel Ady who at one time owned a This building once served as the large area of swamp land in the Midland Grange until burned due to Klamath Straits area. The rights-of­ an overheated stove. The new and way were purchased by the Southern present Midland Grange Hall is across Pacific Railroad from him in order to the Old Midland Road, directly east of cross the Lower Klamath Lake the original site. Marsh. Both schools commenced somewhere Midland is the location of the newly around the 1910 period and were con­ developed Rest Area and Tourist In­ solidated with other districts around, formation Center on U.S. Highway or before 1930; Midland to Henley, #97 for those entering Oregon from the and Miller Hill to Altamont. State of California.

60 Klamath County booth, f irst place winner of the Perkins Cup at the National Irrigation Congress in Sacramento in 1907. Mrs. Henley, fourth f'rom left; Governor Chamberlain of Oregon, sixth from right; George Baldwin, fifth from right; and Frank Ira White, in white sleeves and no coot, second from right. Maude Baldwin Photo

Abel Ady From the Notes of Frank Ira White, Early Day Klamath Falls Real Estate Broker , who had Asperations as a Writer, about 1911-12. lllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllillllllllllllllll'llllllllllllllllillllllllllllllllllllillllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll l. Abel Adv had a curious career. He Darrow that I was the only real estate was edu~ted for a preacher in Ohio man here who would "shoot square·· Wesleyan University. then went out to on his lands; that all the other Las Vegas. New Mexico. as head of a knocked it (The marsh lands south of Weslyan College. That was too slow Midland -- Editorl. for him and he quit to take a contract :3. to furnish arms and ammunition for a Then he located at San Jose. got South American revolution. and just mi.xed up in a land fight "';th the escaped capture by a U.S. Revenue Southern Pacific and won after a long cutter. legal battle, but the Lawyers & court 2. fees broke him flat. Then he got a rich If he had been diplomatic and doctor to finance him to get the Lower proceeded carefully. he might have Klamath Swamp land. The Dr. took come out all right. He once told A.L. half the land at $2.00 an acre. 61 4. 6. In San J ose he had his wile, and He went back to Washington in 1910- several small children. 1911, on business for his wife. Incidentally. he owed about $2,000, They ran the landing eating station at borrowed while his family were all Laird's Landing. after the stages swit­ sick, from the Dr. ched to the route from Grass Lake and He did the survey work alone, cutting as the road pushed north. lines through the Tules, and finding 7. corners on each side. His wife was a good woman. and pret­ 5. ty able. She was postma ter at Merrill And Ady surveyed it himseU and after his death. bought if from the State at $1.00 an One of his boy is doing well. working acre, so for each two acres he got one in the U.S. National Bank at Por· and the Dr. one. land. When he arrived at the west side of 8. the lake, he owned a scrub team. an You know that is good material for a old wagon. and had a two bushel novel. grain sack of oatmeal and a side oJ Better than a biography, because of bacon. greater freedom in rounding out the story. The Story of William Skeen As Printed in the 1959 Siskiyou Pioneer, Page 44 Bv Leona Thackara Andrus in 1956. 11111111111111111' 1111111111r IIIIII 1111111 11111111 Ill 1111 II IIIII 111111111 Ill Ill Ill 11111 Ill 1111 II Ill Ill 1111 1111111 Ill 1111' I My mother's father was Sheepy, an has long since collapsed -- Editor). Indian who lived on Sheepy Creek My mother, Kate, made most of our (East of U.S. Highway #97 and South clothes. Two peddlers. Chas. Mayhall of the State Line Road across Lower and a Mr. Polibu, came through the Klamath Lake -- Editor} for many country twice a year and we bought years. Pete Jones was my uncle. My shoes and other articles we needed. father. Dock Skeen, whose real name We paid for them with the silver and was Franklin orris Skeen. was born gold that we obtained working for the about 1850 at Greenhorn. near Yreka. farmers nearby. Once a year we California. He was Holland Dutch usually went to Yreka. It was a three­ and his parents came across the plains day trip one way. in a covered wagon. Mv father raised horses and sold I was born in 1876 and my brother them. to buyers who came his way. He Dave who lives near Sprague River. was buckaroo boss on the 0. ranch for Oregon, was born in 1872 at our old quite a few years. He took the job homestead near what is now Laird's when he was a real young man. Landing. There was a large Indian The Doc Skeen well. a spring near encampment there. In later years the Pumice Stone well in the Medicine white men pushed the Indians off the Lake area, was named for my father. land. C. ] . Laird bought my father's We went into that country to kill deer homestead from the heirs. The old and antelope. house with a fireplace still stands Ut My first school was on the Meiss 62 The old blacksmith shop at Laird's Landing, formerly the home of Doc Sk-n, as it looked In 19.. 8 . Located east of the Laird buildings and adja cent to the Applegate Trail which ran at ap· proximately the site of the board gate in the background. Devere Helfrich Photo ranch. Our whole family moved there school there. We rode horseback five for three months in the winter so we miles to school. The smart children could attend school. Mr. Little was were held back for the less smart in the teacher. T he Fairchild children. those days, so I did not get as much Jim. John. Elisha, M att, Anna and school as I could have had I been Julia, attended school with us. The allowed to progress as I learned. Skeen and Fairchild children were the M y brother, Dave, fell in the fire first children to be born in Butte when he was young and was left with Valley. a crippled arm. Many Indian children The next winter we moved to the were crippled or killed by falling into Fairchild ranch to go to school. Miss the open fires. Sugar or symp was ap­ Mossie Lona was the teacher. The plied to burns in those days. next year we went to a nine-months' M y mother died in the spring before schooi on the Davis ranch (The old the hard winter and my father died in Van Brimmer ranch-- Editod. Hal August, 1890. My mother was buried Madden was the teacher and later at Laird's Landing where four or five \1iss Melvina Fairchild. The Smith of their children were buried. My and Chipp children also attended father was buried in Yreka. 63 After my father's death I went to Upper Klamath Marsh -- Editor ). work on the Wildhorse (White Hor e She was the first baby to be forn in Ranch -- Editor) ranch at Steen· Klamath FaUs (? -- Editor). We Mountain. The next year I went to settled at Fort Klamath. Later we work at the age of 16 on the Presley moved to Klamath marsh where we Dorris ranch (East of Dorris, Califor­ ranched for many years. nia -- Editor). I worked on the Two daughters were born to us, Dorris ranch at Alturas, in Warner Mona (Mrs. Douglas Hess of Sprague Valley, and at Winnemucca, Nevada; River) and Meda (Mrs. J.E. Savage of and I spent three years on a ranch in Klamath Falls, Oregon). My wife Paradise Valley in Nevada (North of passed away in 1945. I have been Winnemucca -- Editor). retired for many years and now make In 1904 I married Belle White my home with my daughter. Mrs. Miller. sister of Rube White (Who for Douglas Hess. many years lived at the North end of Pioneers of Laird's Landing As Printed in the 1957 Siskiyou Pioneer, Pages 41-42 By Clyde and Ray Laird, Marguerite Laird Dayton and Laurence Laird. 111111' 111111 11111111111111' 111111' II II II II 111111 IIIII 111111

Charles J . Laird. £or . whom Laird's Alter finishing school Charles, bet­ Landing on the southern end of Lower ter known by that time as Charlie, Klamath Lake was named. was born was interested in ranching and stock in Fremont County. Iowa. January raising with his father. Always having 16, 1858. a great liking and understanding of In the spring of 1862 his family con­ horses, he began driving stage in 1880, sisting of his father. William T. Laird. operating from Redding on the south mother Sarah. brother William H. age to Ashland. Oregon on the north. The two year and he. Charles. age four. railroad from Redding north was un­ along with other families started their der construction and a it progressed long low journey for California by the stage distance wa cut down. It wagon train. His father often men­ was completed to A hland in 188- tioned that Charles rode most of the thus ending the staging days. A way bareback on a gentle mare and in photograph taken in Yreka in 1884 of one instance the Indians wanted to Charles along with six other drivers trade for him saying he would make a and the shotgun messenger. is now in "good chief.·· the Wells Fargo Museum in San Alter six months of travel the family Francisco. settled in Trinity County but only un­ In 1884 another Iowa family. the til the next spring when they moved Marion Casters. came to Oregon. later on to cott Valley in Siskiyou County. settling in the Bogu community Staying there about a year they pur­ where Charles J. Laird and Elva chased a ranch on the Klamath River Catherine Caster became acquainted near Ager and Thrall. Here the family and were married in 1892. settled to make their home. Previous to the time they were 64 married. Charlie. still with the pioneer were born to this union, namely: blood. had purchased a ranch from Clyde. Ray. Marguerite and Laurence "Doc" Skeen on the Lower Klamatll !Bud I. Lake and also acq uired more acreage Shortly after the turn of the century by his own homestead righ l. They transportation between the budding moved tllere following their marriage city of Klamath Falls, Oregon and the to enter the livestock business and railroad. was needed. The idea was establish a ''stopping place." The conceived to have steamboat service nearest neighbor at that time were a on Lower Klamath Lake and hence. distance of fi ve miles away. staging to the railroad. Much freighting was done from A canal was dredged by J. Frank Montague, via Ball Mountain. Adams of Merrill. Oregon, Irom a through Red Rock Valley and on main channel to a point near the Laird arOtmd the east side of Lower house: so Laird's Landing was foun­ Klamath Lake into outbern Oregon. ded in 1905. The "Klamath". an 80- Large droves of cattle were taken over foot propeller-driven steamboat owned this route to Montague to be shipped and operated by the Klamath Lake to market. some as far away as Lake Navigation Company. began opera­ County. Oregon. This necessitated tion. stopping places for the riders and hay ln the meantime a road had been for the stock. constructed soutl1 by way of Pumice During these years four children Stone M ountain to Bartle, a point on 65 Old Bartle's Hate( at Bartle, Ca Ufornla, southern terminus of the stage ond freight road to Laird's Landing, and thence by boat to Klamath Falls. Courtesy Siskiyou County His.toricol Society the McCloud River Lumber Company Mcintyre. taking four days to make Railroad. (To this day it is known as the round trip. "Davis Road" in hon~r of William R . Practically all of this freight person­ Davis, prominent rancher and stock­ nel. the beef drivers and other daily man of the area.) Over this road a travelers. had to be fed and bedded stage line was operated by William down at the Landing and hay Davis and Charles Larid. transporting provided for the stock. Conveniences passengers to and from the steamboat were very limited those days so it was to the railroad at Bartle. no small chore. By 1906, the Weed Lumber Com­ However the staging. freighting and pany had completed a railroad as far "'boating'" days were short-lived as the north as Grass Lake. so the stage line railroad was gradually built on into was shifted to that point with a daily Klamath Falls. Some cattle continued service each way. In addition to to be driven over this route to Mon­ passengers. now the Klamath carried tague for a few years. freight, largely cement. as it was about Charlie Laird and his wife Kate this time the Reclamation Service continued on with their ranch. began construction in Klamath Falls. devoting more time to building up This was transported from Grass Lake their herd of cattle. to Laird's Landing mostly by six-mule He passed away at home in Novem­ jerk line teams owned by "Cap·· ber. 1928 and Mrs. Laird continued 66 with the operations until her death in The oldest son, Clvde. Lives at Fall August. 1933. Creek (On the COPCO Road east of It can be tmly said that these two Jenny Creek in Jackson County. never lacked from a plentiful supply of Clyde passed away several years ago friends during their lifetimes -- a -- Editor) where he is engaged in fact attested to by the attendance at the livestock business, and the their funerals. Both are brnied at yow1gest of the family, Larnence Medford. Oregon. IBud I. is captain of the Berkeley The ranch is still owned by the son. Police Department in Berkeley. Ray. and his wife. and the daughter. California. Marguerite Dayton. and her husband, Mr. and Mrs. Howard Dayton live aU residing at Tulelake. California. on a ranch near Tulelake. Mr. and It might be mentioned that the CL Mrs. Ray Laird also live on a ranch cattle brand registered by Charles near Tulelake. They have two sons Laird many years ago. is still used by and three grandchildren. Ray in his operations. Told To Me By Alex J. Roseborough Yreka, June 5th, 1948. 1!11111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111 I was born in 1865, and when very the Klamath County Museum grounds small can remember my father talking -- Editod. The old post office of to Van Brimmer at the latter's ranch. Straw was somewhere near Dry Lake Van Brimmer told of hearing strange ranch. reports coming at intervals from the The old Tichnor road was built mountain back of his ranch. At Last he either during or just after the Modoc discovered two white specks some War also. I think. This road probably distance apart. then rapidly nearing was a continuation of the Ball Moun­ each other, after which the report tain road which was probably opened would be heard. 1t was two mountain up to the Ball ranch about in the early sheep fighting up on the slopes of Van sixties when the Ball Brothers first set­ Brimmer Mountain. now known as tled in Butte Valley. Mowlt Dome. I also remember that on the trip of At another time in 1875. I was with 1875. Judge Steele lost a stake rope. in my father on a trip along the old those days a very valuable and emigrant road from Goose Lake to necessary item if one's stock was to eat Clear Lake (Applegate Trail -­ and be kept under control. Our vehicle Editod. thence to the Dry Lake ran­ was qujte a distance behind Steeles so ch, then northward along the shores of that a Warm Spring Indian who en­ Tule Lake to the Stone Bridge. I can­ tered the road between the two parties not remember the old block house undoubtedly found the rope and hid being at the Van Brimmer place when it. before our party came along. I was first there but I think it was otherwise we would have found it. built either drning the Modoc War or Steele somehow came up with the In­ shortly thereafter. I do not think it dian and began to question him. He should be moved Ut is now located at drew a design showing where both 67 parties were and where the Indian into the distance, said in excellent was. Before this the Indian had mut­ English. " I say nothing." Steele tered "Me no unnerstan," but after became very angry but my father had this definite map was made in the to laugh and told Steele that be sand, he straightened up and looking thought the Indian had won his case. Told To Me By William A. "Bill" Bray 1957 llllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll lllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll' Ill ~ lllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll llllllllllllllllllll 111111111lllllllll1 I was born on the old Bray ranch followed around the base of Cedar in 1892. The old wagon road over Mountain. It still show at Jump-Off­ Deer Mountain was there as far back Joe, where they climbed up over the as I can remember. I used to help rim. The loggers left a big pine tree at drive 1200 head of Orr Estate cattle the top, I don't know why unless to over it every fall around 1904. It took show the scars and rings around it us three days and I always received a where it was used to climb the rim. If $5 gold piece as my pay. I can they had only known, just a little far­ remember traveling over it when I was t.her south the rim petered out and eight. I got my first rifle that year. We they could have pas ed through used to keep our venison in the ice without any climbing over. caves in the rim south of the old ranch The Old W allbridge Canyon road buildings about one mile. Kept was used in the fall and spring when venison there throughout the summer. there was too much snow on the Ball My father helped build the old Mountain Road. I went to school in freight road from Grass Lake, past Yreka and we would go there by the Antelope Sink to Laird's Landing. I'm Ball Mountain road in the fall and sure Tennant was started in 1921 and come back by the W allbridge Canyon shortly afterward I started a store at road in the spring. I think the logging Bray. In the old freight days we had a railroad only reached Morrison until barn 140 feet long that sloped both about 1904 or '5, then came on to ways. Eight and ten freight teams Grass Lake. stopped there most every night. When There is a spring between Parson's the railroad was being built and until ranch and Coyote Pass just a couple of long after Tennant we had a huge hundred yards north of the road that store trade. we called Secret Spring, near the old Possibly the building of Tennant Bruce and Thomas ranches. There had something to do with building the was no ice cave at Jump-Off-Joe that I first highway over Deer Mountain know of. just an old thing we used to along the old wagon road track. As chase varmits into in the winter. The near as I can remember it was built old road crossed Butte Creek a little and paved at about the same time, upstream from Kegg, right at the 1922 I think. camp ground I think. East of Red Rock the ruts of the old At first the railroad went over the emigrant road are worn down into the bill at Dorris, the tunnel held them up sandstone. The old road passed along for two years before it was completed. the north side of Russell Lake and They were also held up quite a while 68 at the big cut at Bray. It was contrac­ on account of the water and mud. In ted to several diiferent contractor . the summer they could go traigbt but was more than thev could handle across. My sister remembers more and they went broke. 1~ the spring the than I would . she ·s older, she is Mrs. old freight road had to follow arotmd Deter in Yreka. married one of the the foot of the hills north of McDoel Deter boys. Written To Me By Leila L. (Carrick) Humphrey May 24, 1965. 11111111 1111111 1111111 111111 111111111 111111 II Ill Ill 1111 II II Ill II Ill Ill 11111111 111111111 1111111 1111111 11111111111

I hope to write about our happy We had a fin e garden and raised day on the homestead. I must have much of our food. We had early rose been about fi ve years old when we potatoes and ome white ones for win­ moved there. It was about eight years ter. I remember working there and after the close of the Modoc War. seeing a band of deer going along tbe There were log canoes. dugout holes hill grazing a they went on their way where their (the Indians) teepees had to the lava bed . That would be along been. and the lower Klamath Lake toward fa ll. We did not need to was very high as there had been deep irrigate. snow for several winters. M y olde t brother Fred stayed with What few home-steaders were there Grandma to go to school in iskiyou wen: nearlv all Civil War Veterans. County. California. Also. he used to I thought it was the most beautiful visit his cousin George Truitt at place in the world. The moisture from Shovel Creek. The post office was the lake kept the hills lovely with wild named Be wick. It wa on the old lettuce. Indian pinks. paint brush and stage route. They kept a way tation Canterbury bell and different flowers and stage depot which was separate besides im~en se old sage brush where from their home. But to get back to black birds and other birds nested. our homestead. We staved 'til it was I remember crows and ravens used ..proved up on·· and ~ve had to go to come up from Little Shasta and fly back to town to go to school b~ then. along the hills and lake but they did but I remember there were no runds not stay there. There were promon­ for the rir t chool. so Miss Lucy Gor­ torvs and island where hundred of don taught a private school in her own sea.·gulls nested. We used to boil the home. Mama had to pay her $2.~0 a eggs but you could not eat them as month for Fred to go to school and by they were strong and fi shy -- so we the next year they had a school of fed them to the animals. sorts and I started to go to school and Those dugout canoes were tmdoub­ Miss Gordon still taught. tedJy Cloated down £rom the Upper !The '·home lead .. was pre umably Lake and we u ed to gather "wocus in the Oklahoma Flat countrv ,;outh­ pods'' and gull and duck eggs. We west of Lower Klamath Lak<'. Thr kids used to pull up tulies and you school attended must havP bet'n in could bite off the lower end and we Linkville. a an Arthur D. Carrick. called them Indian onions. early day blacksmith at that place 69 moved there in 1879. He was killed by Bank. The Carrick family was related lightning in 1904. The Carrick to the Corpe family. Mary Corpe blacksmith shop was located on Main became George Nurse's second wife Street near the present First National -- Editod. Teeter's Landing As Printed in The Siskiyou Pioneer of 1957 By Frances Teeters Dexter lllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllillllllllll llllllllllllllllllllllllllllll My father, Harvey Lewis Teeters, children walked over Ball Mountain in was born near Lima, Ohio, June 1, the dusty road. 1848. My mother, Emily J . Wilson We settled with Uncle William on a Teeters, was born at or near farm fotu miles {rom Keno. Oregon. Louisville. Kentucky. April 10. 1846. We lived there five months tmtil the My parents were married on June l. O\Nners had to have their home. We 1870 at Troy, Kansas, and made their then moved about one and one half home in Iowa where their ten children miles west to the Tower House - the were born: Katherine Belle (Vollmer), old cookhouse at a sawmill. One little Frances Lynette (Dexter), William sister was stillborn here on January Vernon, Dora Gwendolen (Brown), 21 , 1890 and was buried near the Rose Elva (Clanton), Jessie (Cooke), house. Edna Augusta (Waymayerl, Mary Mother had brought $1600 with Aldine, Addie Ellen (Smith), and her, and Dad put nearly all oi it into Lorraine Olive (Tiebelt). cattle. After the hay he had cut and T he winters in Iowa were very the purchase of 40 head of cattle he severe, and my father had been ad­ only saved $100.00 to put us through vised by his doctor to come west for the winter. relief of the asthma. Father's brother Teeters' Landing on the Klamath William had come to California River was one-half mile east of our earlier, and had written Father that house and five miles up the river from there was very little snow in Butte Keno. It was used by my father, as Valley; that cattle and horses lived out well as neighbors (Hall Miller, Charlie through the winter. Father left for Burris, Oliver Sly, Jack White and a California, November 3, 1888. The Mr. West) to haul wood and hay to following February. in 1889, Mother market at Linkville. It was our main brought the ten children to California means of transportation to Linkville to join Father. He met us at Mon­ (Klamath Falls). tague and we stayed that night at the During the hard winter o{ 1889-90 Andrew Soule ranch. Mr. Soule didn't we all went broke; we lost all our want to take any money, but Father stock except one horse. We didn't see insisted upon paying him $1.00 for a the ground from the 3rd of November box of apples he gave us and $5.00 for until the 18th of April except for a few lodging. On the following day, bare patches. Like everyone else February 8, 1889. we left for Butte around us we were nearly starved out. Valley with the wagon; most of the We got along on wheat and frozen 70 The remains of Teeter's landing an May 7, 1967. Located on the Klamath River between the people and the water. Devere Helfrich, Jerry Runnels, Dorothy and Dick Teater. Helen Helfrich Photo potatoes. My mother cooked the went along and used a pole to keep the wheat to eat and also made a poor scow from running into the bank. On tasting coffee out of it. My father one occasion the wind was high and would go to Keno on snowshoes. get the river was rough. so I became what little work there was to do, and scared. and instead of staying on the bring home some bacon to eat. Before scow I went into the steamer (the Lot­ our last cow died. Father put a addle tie Cl. on her and led her 24 mile through The spring following the hard win­ the deep snow to Linkville to get food ter. my father bought a squatter's at Smith's Grocery. He strapped the right from Oscar Terrill and his wife. food on the cow and walked all the about four miles south. Terrills moved way home. It took him three days. He to a little shack a short distance away said when he got home, " I thought I until they could get over Ball Moun­ would find you all starved to death ... tain which was not until May. They We cut wood that winter to make a then moved to Hornbrook. (Mrs. living. In the spring there was a great Terrill recently passed away at the demand for wood in LinkviUe by the hospital in Yreka at the ago of 93). merchants and others and we took When the deep now melted so we three loads there by boat. The could move. our only transportation General Canby and the Lottie C were was the one lone horse and our boat. the steamers that pulled our scow. We which Daddy called a ''scow." We hauled two loads of 20 cords each and moved what little furniture there was one of 16 cords. On all trips I always to the river's edge and had it boated to 7l the homestead. Of course the poor old with the four youngest children who horse was taken by land and again put were still at home. where thev finished to hauling what we had to the house. their schooling. Mv fath e~ let mv This was April 18. and there were still brother have the ho~estead. · drifts of snow among the sagebrush. M y mother passed away at the age My father raised potatoes in the lower of 93 'h years on October 4. I 939. and field which produced 300 sacks due to Father died March 19. 1934 at the age the wet winter: and M other and we of nearly 87. children raised a garden. getting the (Mrs. Frances T eeters Dexter. seeds from the T errills. We sold the daughter of H arvey T eeters, is 83 potatoes lor 50 cents a sack and paid years old (in 195 7) and resides in Mr. Terrill for the seeds. We children Montague with her son Arleigh Cecyl walked two miles to school. the Bonita Ehereman. She was widowed in 1954 Grove School. when her husband. William Dexter. My folks moved to Ashland. Oregon passed away. I The Winter of 1889 and 1890 By Emma Otey Printed in The Klamath News, March 8, 1933 lllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllillllllllillllllllltllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll'llllllllllllllllllllllllllll

Dorris, California ITo the A man by the name of Harvey Editor I - In referring to the article Teeters living near Keno. put a saddle written in a recent issue by J ennie on one of his cows and went through Grub Hurn of the winter of 1889-90. I five feet of snow to Linkville to get will say my fa ther. D.G. M cCollum, supplies for his family of fourteen. and of Plevna. Ore., near Keno, was one the good merchants of Linkville of the volun teers who went to bring in loaded him up. H e stayed all night the body of Grandma Spencer from with us, and my father found room for Spencer Creek, where the house fell on one more sack of flour and a side of her. bacon. I t took him several days to It took several days to make the make the trip. He was a new-comer. journey, and the faithful family dog and had not time to get ready for win­ would lie on the sled containing the ter. body each night. until the journey was Over the line in California the " D " completed. My father lived on what ranch lost about 6,000 head of cattle was known as the Mills & .Rider b,· starvation. Seven buckaroos. ranch. I was a girl at home then. The a~ong them Joe Otey. Venie l Dorris snow was so deep we could scarcely and Henry Picard took about 1.500 of see out the front windows, where it them out through five feet of snow to was drifted, and the men went what is known as the Neal Sly gulch, through hardships going to the feed to cut down trees for them to browse yards to feed the cattle, break the road on. Most of them died. twice a day with six horses, and when The winter o£ 1889, Charley Boyce they would break the ice for the cattle died at his home on the Boyce ranch, on .the river they would bunch up and near the foot of Ball's mountain. They go under as the ice would give way. made a hand sled. and eight men took 72 his body over BaU mountain, a dis· flour. We did not know anything of tance of 20 miles to Little hasta. living from the paper bag or bakeries, through six feet of snow. and doctors were miles away. We The following winter. 1891, was a dido 't have a doctor every time one reminder for deep snow. Joe Otey and got sick. We were a happy. jolly, wife went to Keno on a Friday night neighborly people. When we went to a to a dance. The next morning it was dance we put the wagon bed on the snowing, so we waited another day. sled, threw in some hay, put on four We started home Sunday morning, of the wildest horses. with a good and it took us three days hard work, driver, took our lunch and went for with four bead of horses, to get a miles. distance of 12 miles. No one seemed to But the deep snows made good suffer for food. as everyone in the crops and healthy people. Hope we country prepared for the winter by may have many more deep snows to having provisions for the winter. They bring the country back to normal, made their own bacon and lard, where plenty of grain and hay can be hauled in grain to Little Shasta. 60 raised without irrigating. miles. or to Linkville. to the Martin Emma Otey Brothers mill, and got our supply of Told To Me By Mrs. J.A. (May Tower) Gray. 111'111' 1"111 I I II II I I II II I Ill II II II II II' II I was born in Nebraska. We came dows, fifty-four. and there were no to the Klamath county in 1903 when I two alike. was fourteen. We lived about two Kestersons, called the Cow Creek miles southwest of T om Calmes' place Lumber Company, a lumber company below Keno. We had an apple orchard came in and built a sawmill (At Ivan, that was raised from seedlings that southwest of Worden some two miles came around the horn. (The Tower -Editor). He bought the timber from place was located west of the Keno· mv father. Mv father later bought it. Worden paved road one half mile, and H~ ran the mill with his boys to help about half ·way between the two places (The Tower Sawmill - Editor). We -Editor). My father helped build the leh there in 1923 or 4. Steamer Klamath. He put in the win- :=:-;-:-:~~~~

73 The first Beswick Hotel, still standing, at Shovel Creek on the Klamath River down stream from Topsy Grade. Peter Britt Photo, Courtesy Siskiyou County Museum. The History of Klamath Hot Springs Written by Alice Hessig for the 1965 Siskiyou Pioneer With additions by Lottie Beswick in the 1963 Siskiyou Pioneer. lllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll11lllllll11lll1lllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllilllllllllllll111111111

The Klamath Hot Springs are on passing through the cotLntry often located about forty miles northeast of prospected for gold and left a shovel Yreka by way of Montague and Ager. on the creek bank. When the shovel and about forty miles sottth (South­ was fotLnd, the creek had a name. west - Editorl of Klamath Falls. "Nigger Creek" (Negro - Editorl. Oregon, by way of Topsy Grade. The T here were several families oi Negroes springs are near the mouth of Nigger li ving in Yreak in the gold msh days. (Now shown on U.S.G.S. maps as They wotLld come with their teams Negro Creek, one mile up Shovel and wagons and camp on the banks of Creek and on the west side - Editor l the stream when the salmon were rtLO­ and Shovel Creek on the east (South ning up to spawn. They would fish - Editorl bank of the Klamath River. tLDtil their wagons were filled to "Shovel Creek." You will wonder capacity and then take the fish into how the creek happened to be called Yreka to sell to the miners. The first by that name. Hudson's Bay Trappers owner of the creek was a man by the 74 name of Johnson or Anderson. I've found a fifty-cent piece or half a doiJar been given both names. Evidently he that was minted in 1838. We prize homesteaded the property about 1860. these coins highly as keepsakes. He raised a few beef cattle and horses. Once a group of renegade Indians There was an Indian trail from Butte hid in this cave and no one dared to Valley to Shovel Creek and Indians chase them out. Finally a cannon was used to come in droves over the trail to brought in and after a shot or two was camp on the river and creek banks. fired, the Indians gave themselves up. They were Modoc Indians. Many of Just north of Shovel Creek, on the these campsites· and wickiup "holes" opposite side of the river, a family by are still in evidence. They would dry the name of Owens lived. The Owens the fish for future use. Mr. Anderson had a small chair factory. This proper­ (or Johnson) was friendly with them ty was later sold to Edson Brothers. and would permit them to butcher a On the east (Southeast - Editor) beef. Many of the Indian women side of the Klamath, adjoining the Hot would put pitch on their hair. I've Springs property, was the Hessig read that they do this when in mour­ Ranch, owned by my husband's grand­ ning for their dead. There is a large fathe.r. Farther on the west (North­ Indian burial ground on the northeast west - Editor) side of the Klamath side of Shovel Creek. This burial was the Jerome Faye place which was ground is in the lava rock. Mr. later bought by the Edson Brothers. Stockslager told me that the Modocs On the Hessig Ranch are the Beswick burned their dead. They would dig a Craters. There are seven smaiJ craters large hole in the lava rocks, gather in this lava formation , which show wood and place the body on it, then they were once active. Many people burn it with the personal belongings. have visited this spot. They would roll lava rocks over the The Klamath Hot Springs were sold ashes. This I believe as I have been around 1869 to Richard Beswick (By there so many times and all the rocks Lottie Beswick: "Richard Beswick show evidence of fire. But I would was born on a farm near Niles, never dig in the graves as many people Michigan, September 2, 1842. * * * do. I am a collector of arrowheads and He came to California * * * being 15 other Indian artifacts. but to me their years old at the time. * * * Mr. burial grounds are sacred. I only take Beswick engaged in placer mining for what I find around old camp sites. about ll years and then turned his at­ The Indians used to bathe in the tention to ranching on the Klamath Hot Springs and directly across the River. This ranch became known as river from the Hot Springs is a large the Shovel Creek Springs, later caiJed cave. I've been told Captain Jack and the Klamath Hot Springs. Mr. and his followers or tribe used to camp Mrs. Beswick retained possession there at times. and many a Hudson's from 1873 to 1887. The Beswicks were Bay trapper sought shelter there at the first to discover the efficacy of the night. My daughters and I often went spring water. After having it tested there to look for arrowheads. I found and analyzed, they conceived the idea a twenty-live cent piece or quarter of a of establishing a summer resort. dollar that was minted in 1834. There "Putting their idea into practical was a hole punched in it. I figured shape, they erected a large and some Indian had worn it for an or­ modern hotel and furnished it in an nament. My daughter, Dorothy, attractive manner. They were soon 75 Overall view of the f irst Beswick Hotel and Stage Barn at Shovel Creek. Looking east up Klamath River. Peter Britt Photo, Courtesy Siskiyou County Museum. convinced that their plan was a wise and the very necessary chamber pot and remunerative one. Health seekers and coal oil lamps. patronized the resort for many suc­ Mrs. Beswick cooked the meals and ceeding seasons. and the place gained did much of the maid work herself a reputation by no means local in ex­ and was said if an addition to the tent. The Beswicks owned a section of hotel. such as an extra room needed to land at the springs. located 20 miles be built on. she was apt to start the from Ager. California. "I As all freight job. She was a very capable and hard was moved from Yreka to Klamath working woman. Falls via Ager and Topsy Grade road. Frederick Stockslager came to live Mr. and Mrs. Bes·wick decided to with the Beswicks when he was nine build a hotel and ''keep travel." as years of age. after the death of both they said in those days. This hotel was his parents. He was bound to them to built in 1870 and still stands and is work for his room, board and used as a dwelling. schooling. He milked the cows in the The Hotel was a stopover for the morning and took them to pasture on passenger stage and freighters alike. A his way to school and brought them in blacksmith shop. very much a on hjs return from school. The nearest necessity in those days for wagon school at that time was the Oak Grove repairs. with a forge for horse shoeing. school. which would be near the steel was put up. Then a stage barn for bridge at the head of Copco Lake. stabling the horses and feed. The This school was later moved a mile Hotel had ten sleeping rooms. front south (West - Editor) of Klamath room and sitting room and ladies Hot Springs. Beswick once boasted a parlor. both sitting rooms and parlor store, post office, hotel. voting pre­ having fireplaces. A large dining cinct. not to mention a saloon. room. kitchen and a bathing place. (Beswick post office was established short on plumbing. Each room was April 18. 1882 and was closed to Mon­ equipped with washbowl and pitcher tague on May 5. 1947. Other post of- 76 fices along the Yreka to Linkville A large bath house was built over (Klamath Falls) road were: Yreka. the Hot Springs. There were si.x mud established August 19. 1853; Willow baths. a steam bath and a barber Creek, established September 22. 1876 shop. During the summer season. a and closed to Ager, February 3, 1888; barber. masseur and a man and Ager, established February 3. 1888 woman attendant were employed from Willow Creek. and closed to especially for this work. In front of the Beswick, J anuary 31. 1940; Bogus, bath house was a large concrete slab established September 22. 1876 and with a drinking £ountain which unlike closed to Ager, December 21, 1913; most mineral waters was very good Topsy, established January 9. 1884 tasting. Many people would drink a with Major Overton the first and only gallon of this water daily. The mud postmaster. The office was located at baths were very beneficial to people his ranch at the top of Topsy Grade. with rheumatic ailments, if tl1ey The office closed to Plevna which had stayed with it long enough to get been established as Whittle's Ferry on results. February 22, 1876. The name was A large swimming pool filled with changed to Plevna on January 9, the natural hot water was also 1878. Next the office of Plevna was available to guests. This water was moved to the Emmit ranch on cooled to the correct temperature for February I. 1882 leaving the present swimming and bathing with water Keno location without a post office from Nigger (Negro - Editorl Creek. until August 9. 1887. Linkville was There was an ice house to provide established as a post oflice December ice for the hotel as there was no other 11. 1871 but probably a mail route way of refrigeration at the time. The was not established to that place until ice was cut from a pond up Shovel July l. 1872 and then from Ashland Creek. This building had double walls - Editor. I insulated with saw-dust. The huge Mr. Beswick sold his Klamath Hot hotel Ice box is still in Lhe store Springs property at Beswick to the building as well as the hotel safe. Edson Brothers. J oe and Lile (In 1887 While we are still at the ice house, I - Editor). The Edsons decided to will have to tell you a tale. Many build a new hotel and a health resort. years had passed, Louis and I had Much lava rock was used in the bought the property. The old ice house building which was beautiful and was about to tumble down. We had rustic and fit into a natural setting of two men working for us so Louis told rugged surroundings. Lush green them to burn the ice house before it lavms and shade trees added to the at­ fell down on an animal or person. tractiveness of the place. Lava rock Well , it made a hot fire. but lo and was used for fencing with concrete behold , there was a secret door pillars at the entrances. This hotel llad somewhere. and fun1es of bonded seventy-five guest rooms besides the whiskey began to penetrate the air and office, huge dining room, kitchen and glass began to pop. There must have other necessary rooms. There was also been at least six or eight cases of a dining room for the hired help. The wh iskey hid there from the looks of Edsons had cattle and sheep so hay the glass. Our hired men actually had had to be harvested. cattle marked tears in their eyes. Lonis said no doubt and branded. They also had many fine it was stored there before prohibition horses. days as the saloon at Klamath H ot 77 Bath houses a t Shovel Creek. Besw ick Hotel in extreme center background. Peter Britt Photo, Courtesy Siskiyou County Museum.

Springs was a popular spot when eggs, butter, cheese, meat and won­ Oregon went dry, about the time when derful home cured ham and bacon the guys were singing: smoked in the big smokehouse. It's a long way to California, A Chinese gardener, milker and It's a long way to go, irrigator was employed most of the It's a long way to California time, also local help as well as some To the first Saloon I know. from San Francisco. Goodby Tom and Jerry, Bill Hoover tells me about one of Farewell Rock and Rye. the Owens boys. Grover by name, It's a long way to California being sweet on one of the waitresses at Since Oregon went dry. the hotel. Grover lived across the river There was also a fish house where a from Shovel Creek. The fellows man was hired to clean the fish that around the saloon decided to have were caught by the guests. Many liked some fun with him, so they told him to ship their fish out from Ager to she had a jealous husband who would friends in the Bay area - wooden probably find out about him. The next boxes were made and clean hay placed night Grover crossed the river and was in tightly. The fish were dried out in­ walking down toward the hotel when a side, well. This was done by hanging shot rang out. followed by several them up and propping them open with more. Grover turned and ran so fast sticks. The fish were placed on the his feet 5carcely touched the ~ouno. hay singly and more hay over them, The fellows had hid behind the trees then the box was nailed shut and they and fired the shots into the air ... so were ready to be shipped. that was the end of the romance. The Edsons served bountiful meals In its heyday the Klamath Hot at the hotel dining room, with much of Springs was a famous resort and many the vegetables from their own people of note were guests there. The vegetable gardens. Fruits, berries, late President Herbert Hoover. Zane 78 Mud Springs, or Klamath Hot Springs at Beswick near Shovel Creek. Peter Britt Photo, Courtesy Siskiyou County Museum

Grey, famous author of western fic­ ted, quickly took her rope off and put tion, William S. Hart. western movie it on the mare's front feet and tipped star of silent picture days. aviatrix her down hill, where the horse was Amelia Earhart, Elmer Highery, and able to regain its feet. Old timers have his partner. The guests were first met said she was a very self-reliant at Ager by horse drawn stages, but woman, direct to the point. According when the automobiles came in. a to the late Frederick Stockslager who $7,000 Locomobile with chain drive was employed to irrigate, Mrs. Edson was purchased by the Edsons to bring asked him to turn the water out of the the guests in from Ager Station. This orchard as she had planned a picnic was about 1912, and the driver's name there for her guests. Well, Fred didn't was Tom Stafford, another later driver do as she said as it interfered with his was Al Decker. irrigating. As soon as Mrs. Edson Mter the deaths of the Edson caught up with him she said, "Fred, Brothers, Mrs. Bessie Edson operated you're fired. " And he was. the Klamath Hot Springs with the Deer were very plentiful in winter help of her sister, Mrs. Bourrows, and months, one could ride up Shovel a niece and husband, Mr. and Mrs. Creek trail and count two or three Brown. Mr. Bill Hoover, who is now hundred deer. Edson kept guides for eighty-one years of age and still lives htmting parties. George Cook and in the Beswick area, was foreman for Henry Kerwin were both employed at Mrs. Edson. Bill recalls a time when the resort as guides and were con­ they were on horseback and Mrs. Ed­ sidered the best in that day. Saddle son decided to go up on the mountain horses were also available. Many rides to see how the sheep were doing. She and picnics were planned for guests. was riding her mare, Gypsy. Gypsy Many Liked to search for Indian ar­ stumbled and lost her footing and tifacts. Saturday nights and Sunday couldn't get up. Mrs. Edson dismoun- afternoons, the Montague band often 79 Second Beswick Hotel built of stone, across the stoge and freight road north of the first Beswick Hotel. looking northeast up Klamath River. Courtesy Siskiyou County Museum.

The stone Beswick Hotel burning, about August 15, 1915. Courtesy Siskiyou County Museum.

80 The burned out shell ot the Beswick Hotel wos replaced by o donee pavilion sometime around 1920. Unknown Siskiyou County group. Courtesy Si skiyou County Museum.

played for dances and other enter­ horse to cross the creek. tainment. The Klamath Hot Springs hotel Then there was a beautiful grove of burned in 1915. M uch of the fur­ alder and cottonwood near the mouth nishings were saved . T ents furnished of Shovel Creek and N igger (Negro­ as sleeping rooms '"ere set up. Along Editor) Creek. Drinking fountains and about 1918. after tbe hotel was camping facilities were available to destroyed by fire. business was getting those who wished to camp out. poorer. as new highways we re being Edsons had their own hydro-electric built and the automobile was reall y power plant which furnished elec· coming into its own. Mrs. Edson saw tricity to aU the buildings and also to the handwriting on the wa ll and in the grove for campers. November 1921. she sold the Klamath Several cottages with six or more Hot Springs property to Joe Serpa. sleeping rooms were also built. A Antone King. and Mr. Terry. dining room was set up in the store T hey paid her 61 thousand dollars building. Incidentally. this building for the ranch and 250 head of cattle. still stands. 400 tons of hay, 17 head of horse and You will perhaps wonder what the all the farm equipment. guests did (or recreation. Let me tell Two years later they sold the you there was no finer fishing property for twenty-five thousand anywhere than the Klamath River and dollars to Margaret Rutherford. Miss Shovel Creek. Mr. Stockslager and my Rutherford was a movie star of silent husband's father. Bert Hessig. told me pictures. Bill H oover was her foreman that when the fish were coming up and his wile Ethel had charge of the Shovel Creek to spawn. there were so dining room. many that the stream was literall y About 1922. the Hot Springs alive with fish. You could hardly get a property was leased to my husband ·s 81 father, H.H. Hessig, but was sold the in the years to come another Klamath same year to the California Oregon Hot Springs Resort. As for myself, the Power Co. My father-in-law and my happiest days of my life have been husband, Louis, leased the property spent at this delightful spot. until 1954 when my husband pur­ (Information on the History of chased the property from COPCO. In Klamath Hot Springs was given me by 1959, Louis and I sold all our Beswick the Late Frederick Stockslager and my holdings including the Hot Springs husband's parents, Bert and Emma property to G.J. Laubacker, T ex Hessig, William Hoover and Joe Ser­ Richard and their wives. It is still pa.) there and who knows, there might be

Double Heart Ranch Written by Betty Dow for the 1963 Siskiyou Pioneer 11 11111 111 111 11111 111 11 11 111 11111 11 11 1111 11 111 11 111111 11 11 1111111 11 11 111 111 11 111 11 11 111 111 11 11 111 111 11 11 11 111 11 111 111 111 11 11 111 111 111 11 111 111 1111 11 11 11 111 11 11 111 11 11 111 11 1111

The Double Heart Ranch on the "Always run less stock than the land Klamath River, six miles east of Cop­ will carry. '' co Lake, formerly owned by Louis V. The water situation was always Hessig of Montague, has, historically ideal, as the Hessigs had rights on the speaking, a background richly inter­ Klamath River, which bounds the en­ woven with episodes and events that tire main ranch on the west. The back are reminiscent of roaring Western fic­ ranch presented no water problems tion. either, as all streams rose from there. Turning back the pages of time to According to an old news story printed 1884, one Learns that Louis Verse ll in the Yreka Journal, July 4, 1928, it Hessig, grandfather of the Louis V. was noted that for 35 years the Hessig Hessig of today, left Eureka, Hum­ family at Beswick had been breeding boldt County and acquired the Double and handling a large herd of Devon­ Heart Ranch property to establish shire cattle on the upper Klamath himself in the cattle business, being River. operated in later years by Harry, first The wonderful success enjoyed by of the senior Hessig's sons, and father the Hessigs with these cattle was at­ of the present Louis Hessig; and a tributed to the fact that this breed was second son, Joseph. the very best of all for this section of The ranch property, prior to its sale Northern California, and it was also to the present owner, Joseph noted that Henrv Miller of Miller and Laubacker, it was noted, that since its Lux, considered. the Devonshires the founding, not one acre had been sold, best of all purpose cattle in the world. and it had expanded to some 2,500 They were, at that time the main acres by 1952. Successful operation of breed handled by Miller and Lux, the ranch was attributed to the fact since 1908. that the meadows and fine grassy hill * * * pastures was the result of a simple When the present day Louis Hessig rule, followed by three generations, sold the ranch, he was handling 82 Hereford cattle, having started a grave of Spence. A few months later commercial line of their breed in 1939. the Indian woman's husband died, but He had about 350 brood cows. requested, that upon his death that he Among the many interesting be buried on the other side of the highlights included in the history of river. the Double H eart Ranch it was noted The suicide, who was interred that back in 1888. when the first Louis beside the two men was Charles Hessig had the ranch about four years, Butler, who killed himself, a year or a lumber firm (The Pokegama Sugar­ two after the second murder. by jum­ pine Lumber Co. - Editor) started ping off of a bridge near the station of logging operations in the Pokegama Topsy. When the Hessigs discovered area. four miles northeast of the his body. they buried it near the ranch. on the Oregon side of the river. others. They chuted logs into the river right Also located on the ranch is " D ead across from the ranch and floated Men's Pool." so named because of them to the mills at Klamathon, 20 some loggers who had drowned there miles downstream. after a log jam. Water was held back lmmedia tely. H essig erected a upstream until the jam could be slaughter house (S till standing dynamited. Through an error, the Editor I to provide beef for the water was released ahead of schedule, Pokegama camp. A few years later. while some 20 men were attempting to when a railroad was constructed bet­ break the jam. All except four ween Thrall and Pokegama, Hessig managed to escape to a small island. furnished beef for the Greek crews. The four men were carried on logs. in­ The Greeks baked their own break in to the whirlpool below the island. One little round, rock ovens, which still was rescued. but the others were lost. stand at the site of the old railroad. The pool is now famous for its fine On the ranch is a small cemetery steelhead. with only three graves, two belonging Still another landmark on the ranch, to murdered men. and the third to a which has proved a great attrac­ suicide. To indicate the violence of tion for visitors, is the "Chicken Soup those early years, it is related how in Springs." Visitors would take a cup 1894, Charles Spence was tied up and and shaker of salt. and upon tasting thrown into the Klamath River by an the bubbling hot water declared it unknown killer. Later as his body tasted just like chicken soup. floated by the ranch. the Hessigs During the time the present day recovered his body and buried it near Hessig family resided on the ranch, it the house. Spence had built a Large is noted that they wintered their com­ cabin on the back ranch in 1884. mercial Herefords at home, but they which during the Hessig's era was a owned summer ranges around Fort popular place for male guests to batch, Klamath, Oregon, and also leased during vacations, fishing and hunting nearby ranges hom a lumber com­ seasons. It was near the site of an old pany. sawmill which had stood there until The roads were very bad at the about 35 years ago. time. probably because they wound in A little later in the same era. John and out of California and Oregon. The Graves was shot in a quarrel over an Topsy Grade Road. which led into Indian woman, by her husband. The Keno, Oregon, was not shown, as late Hessigs hurried Graves beside the as 1952, on any road maps. was the 83 route the Hes igs used to truck their cattle over to Fort Klamath. It wa a beautifully cenic way. but very rough. as it climbs a spur of the Ca cade Mountains above the Klamath River. Isolated as the area and ranch seems to sound, the Hessigs. with their two daughters. Dorothy and Shirley. were active in community affairs in nearby Montague as well as Yreka. The girl during their school year at· tended the Bogus Elementar~ chool. which wa 13 miles from the main ranch home. Mrs. Hessig. and Mrs. T.H. J oslin. a neighbor. used to take Early day transportation was a problem. turns in driving over the rough roads F.M. Priest Photo to take the Hessig and Joslin children Riders. bewildered by a blinding to school. snow. blundered into canyons and Visitor u ed to travel to the Double ravines. Several riders. realizing that a Heart Ranch for weekends of riding. blizzard had struck. headed for the fishing and hunting. and to enjoy the nearest ranches. for shelter. wonderful hospitality of the He ig . Louie stated that he and a few who would conduct their guests on other were still out when the snow tours to view the many intere Lin g halted temporarily. and he spotted a landmarks. wiltl stalliuu. He nteetl the stallion At one time. the historic ranch was neck and neck. It would not turn, but the scene for roundups that were said would outrun his horse. swing about to be as violent and exciting as any and butt his mount almost viciously present day rodeo show. Possibly more enough to knock it down. Louie said so. as the "wild" horses were not con· the stallion finallv wearied of tbis eniently corraled as for a show. but sport and outran him for good. rancher found it necessary to gather Some of the other riders had together for roundup . to clear the corraled four or Iive horse . including range of real wild horses. that roamed a mare and colt. The men tarted the surrounding hill and forests by practicing roping on them. and all but the hundreds. the mare and colt leaped over the One such roundup was held as fence. recentlv as February, 1952. and after tories. such as these would indicate cons id ~ r ablt> prepar~ tion. such as ob­ that the "Wild West" is not entirely of taining the consent of California and the past. that the flavor and ex- Oregon. property owners of nearby citement of it still remain \\~th us. It ranches. a large group of men. in­ will never really die. as long as men cluding Louie Hessig. started out to such as Louis V. Hessig. with the clear the ranges o£ some 300 wild hor­ blood of their pioneer forebears still se. rwming strong in their veins. are The tory as told. by 2 o'clock on a alive. and who rai e and teach their February afternoon. the men were children the tradition of the old ready. but a snow had started up. .. Wild and Wooly West.·· 84 After o successful bear hunt near Shovel Creek. John Day, left and Joe Hess I g. Told To Me By Joe Hessig July 7, 1948. llllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll!llllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll Jim Waugh was an early day mail about sixty men, in 1889-90. The three carrier. using a cart to carry the mail. grades all come together at the bottom There were at times three differeDL of the hill west of a spot where a large grades up the Topsy HiU. The first or rock. known as Robber 's Rock. near center one went straighter up. and the old Frain School is located on the through the same draw though which south side of the present road. The the second road also cut through the Wells-Fargo Express company had to rim. This spot is perhaps one half mile cease their runs because of the rob­ west along the rim from the third and beries at this place. last road, from which the whole setup There was a small band of Klamath derives its name of Topsy Grade, Top· River Indians who were very peaceful sy Hill and Topsy post office. The first and who made their home in the was probably built by the settlers of vicinity of the mouth of Shovel Creek. the neighborhood (Siskiyou County These Indians were attacked by the and Klamath County citizen donations Modocs and completely wiped out. ex· - Editor). The second was a county cepting the women who were taken road built by George Chase and third captive and used as slaves. II they by Robert A. E mmit, with a crew of tried to escape they were caught and 85 given a severe beating. then ii they day when he was absent. some men tried it again they were blinded so that went above the cliff and by means of they could not see to escape again. I ropes let one member down to the remember two old squaws who were opening. In it was cached several released after the Modoc War and buckets full of arrow heads. returned to that neighborhood to During the building of the Topsy spend the rest of their lives. both Grade. under Emmit in 1889. the being blind. crew. some sixty in number. had their Across the Klamath River and one camp established at the top of the fourth mile downstream from the grade. at the spring or little stream mouth of Shovel Creek. was a long draining the old Major Overton ranch open cave at the base of a high cliff. meadow about one hall mile to the Here the Indians had at least one bat­ south. Here one day appeared a negro tle. building up an earthen breast­ woman and set up her camp and works in front of the cave. Here also began her business of soliciting the Mart Frain. early day trapper had a workmen. Her name was Topsy . and cabin but a few feet from the cave. jokingly the camp began to be called where he lived. High up on the cliff Topsy's Camp. and later the Grade was a smaU cave or hole. which early allld still later the post office also took day whites wanted to explore, bu't the name of Topsy. Frain would not permit. However, one Land Development in the Klamath Basin A Talk Given by Edmund M. Chilcote To the Klamath County Historical Society Wednesday, January 13, 1960. IIIIIIIIIIIIIJIIIIIIII11IIIIIIilllllllllli'lllllll1illlllllll1lll111lll111111111111llllllllll111lllllllll1 111111111111 1111 111111111111111111111111111111111111 I'd like to begin my talk by telling birds of all kinds circled around and when I first came to the Klamath around the boat. It was a wonderful Basin. It was in March. 1908 that I showing of wildlife. took the trai11 from Weed and came to As we came across Lake Ewauna Bray. which was then the end of the the lights on the hills showed up well, line. At Bray several others and I and Klamath Falls looked like a real climbed into an old-fashioned city. However. it d-w indled away stagecoach and came through Butte during the night and became only a Valley and over some low hils to the thriving town with a population of bend of the Klamath River below about twelve hundred. Midland, to what was known as In 1908 the Klamath Irrigation Teeter's Landing. There we boarded Project was well under way. The tun­ the stern-wheeler "Klamath" and nel had been driven through the hill came up the river to Lake Ewauna on the north side of the city. the main and finally to the mouth of Link canal had been built to a point near R iver, where we landed on a plank Olene, where it divided, the East wharf near the Lakeside Inn. Coming branch going through the gap at up the river, we stood on the bow of Olene. into Poe Vallev. and the South the boat and. as it was late evening, branch running thro~gh the heart of 86 the Klamath Valley to Merrill and as well as numerous pumping units. near Malin. A good manv of the Of course. we can't forget the Wood laterals had not been built· but sur­ River Valley which gets plenty of veyors· takes were scattered all over water from even Mile Creek. Annie Klamath and Poe Vallev where the Creek. Sun Creek and Wood River. If lateral and smaller ditch.es were to be you want a delightful view. drive up built. Sun Mountain above Kimball Park In these early times three-fourths of and look do-.,•n on the delicate green of the land in the Klamath Vallev was in the Wood River Vallev. sagebrush. and the same was· true of The draining of Tt;lelake was a big Poe. Yonna and Langell Valleys. project. The water at one time covered Nearly all the roads wound around 90.000 acres. Lo t River is the outlet and around through the agebru h. from Clear Lake and flows through Mo t of the travel to Merrill was bv Langel!. Poe and Klamath VaJlev what wa then known as the Hill road·. and this flow kept the waters ~£ It ran. and still runs. from Wilson Tulelake at a high level. Soon alter Bridge. jttst below the Diver ion dam the Klamath Project was completed a by the old Kilgore ranch. along the dam was built in Lost River just above southwesterly side of Stukel mountain Wilson bridge and a Diversion canal to a point about two miles north of was constructed from this dam across Merrill. where it turned outherlv into the center of the valley to a point just Merrill. Of course. there was. con­ below Ewauna Lake. and the water of siderable travel through the valley. but Lost River wa dumped into Klamath in winter or spring the low pots were River. After the water of Lost River muddy. and the wind would often had been diverted. evaporation caused blow the sand over the road and make the ::shore line to recede and many it very hard to travel. I might go back thousand acres of good land have been and say that the Klamath project was homesteaded. Only about 20.000 acres not the first irrigation system in the are to be kept in ~ Sttmp for wild fowl Klamath Basin. In earlier days. J. use. The government leases a lot of Frank Adams and other built the the land each year. and no one knows Adams Canal which carried water just when more land will be open for from Upper Klamath LakE> along the homesteading. The government drilled hillside above Conger Avenue !This a large tunnel through a hill at the was the Ankeny D itch - Editorl. outhwe t ide of Tule Lake and in­ through First and Nichols addition. stalled some big pumps. When the and through the valley to a point water gets too high these pumps are beyond Merrill. Some of the ranches started. and the water is pumped served were the Altamont, Henley, through the tunnel to the westerly side Harshbarger and Adams. The U.S. of the hill. where it is used for Reclamation Bureau. before starting irrigation and for the control of the the Klamath Project, bought all of the water level in the Lower Klamath Bird rights of the Adams Canal Co. Refuge. We are inclined to think that Lower Klamath Lake was in the irrigation applies only to the Klamath early days a large. open body of Valley. but this is contrary to the water. When the .P. Railroad grade facts. We have to include Poe. Yonna was constmcted. an opening was left and Langell Valleys. and al o the so that water from the Klamath River Tulelake and Lower Klamath areas. could go down the channel called 87 ~~~*'~~ -~ • At the hatching grounds for young pelicans on Bird Islands, Lower Klamath Lake. Maude Bold· win Photo

"The Straits" to the lake. When the spring during the nesting season to river was high, the water ran into the " Bird Islands.·· The islands were for­ lake. but when the river was low the med by tules attaching themselves to water ran slowly back to Klamath the bottom of the shallow parts of the River and on down into California. lake and spreading rapidly. The This regular ebb and flow controlled pelicans trampled the tules and nested the level of the lake. Shortly after the on them. There were thousands of railroad grade was built the railroad yo ung pelicans on the islands and their company made an agreement with the pouches were full of fish. When they U.S. Reclamation Bureau so that a exploded. there was a sweet perfume gate would be installed and the flow of on the breeze. There were also many the water through "The Straits" cormorants (shagsl and cranes in the would be controlled. The gate was area. but they lived on different is­ kept closed for several years and the lands or on wiJlows around tl•e shore water evaporated gradually until Line. Strong winds would occasionally nearly all of the land in Oregon tear the roots of the tules from the became dry excepting a few low spots. bottom of the lake. and the islands and these low spots were controlled by would then become ·'Floating dikes along ''The Straits." There are Islands." An early map made by the several private owners in this area that U.S. Bureau of Reclamation shows grow excellent crops of barley. oats "Bird Islands.. and ''Floating and wheat. Lower Klamath Lake in Islands... All three of the Teliord the early days was a large bird refuge Brothers are stiH living, but only one and in it were several bird islands. and now lives in Klamath Falls. He is Rav also some floating islands. Teliord Teliord. and lives at 410 Cooge.r Brothers. who operated a boat Avenue (Ray has long since passed building business on Link River near away- Editor). the bridge. ran excursions in the The Klamath Valley, the Merrill 88 and Malin area. the Lower Klamath Lake and Poe Valley unit got mo t of their water from Upper Klamath Lake. Yonna Valley is supplied by pumping units and some Big pring at Bonanza. Langell Valley gets water from the Gerber dam on Miller Creek. but the southerly and westerly sides of the valley get water from Lo t River which come from Clear Lakt>. There is an ample water supply. Zane Grey wrote a storv about Lost River and called it .. F~rlorn River. ·· lt' worth reading. Oil well near Spring Lake in 1922. A tated before. there are many Courtesy Mrs. F.W. Eberlein pumping units in the Klamath are;. among them being the Enterprise. just later learned that thev were suckers. east of Klamath Falls, the Shasta found out that there. were sucker,:, in View and Malin. close to Malin and in Klamath in the earh davs. and there what was usuaJJv called Sand Hollow. are still some sucker~. . The e districts . are organized under In the pring' of 191 I. I went to Los tate law. They buy water from the Angele and bought a :-econd hand car government and usually pump it from and brought it to Klamath Falls. It the larger canals. Mo t o£ the was a tudebaker. an E. Yl. & F. irrigating is being done by .. floodinf!". (Every Morning Fixem I and durintr but in the later years a number of the next few veaN traveled thousand~ pres ure pumps have been installed of miles over ihe hills and through the and a goodly number of sprinklers are valleys showing farm lands. On!~ one now operating. other man now hing in Klamath Having been in the real estate Falls was in the real estate business business in the Klamath Basin for when I hun#! up my shingle. and he is more than half a century. it has been Bert Hall. He was here when 1 arri' ed my privilege to visit almost ever) cub­ and was one of the mo t a eli\ e. byhole in Klamath Count). In the In the early years. real estate meant earlier day elling was confined the selling of farm land. but du.rinl! largely to farm land. When I had the later ~ears it has been in sell in~ several prospective buyers. I would homes and income property. It ha;; rent two good horses and a two-seated been. and still is. a real pleasure to wagon and make a trip to the head of watch the l!rOwth of the Klamath Langell Valley. We would drive to area. and very likely the best is y<'t to Bonanza. the ''Clover Leaf" town the come. first day. around Lange II Valley and Occasionally. people ask me wh~ 1 back to Bonanza the second da\'. and don't retire and f!O to a mild climate. on to Klamath the third day. On one My answer is that I like it here and do of the e trips I tayed overnight at not want to cut "hort the friendships Dairy. at a large ranch home being that have wown O\ er a long span of u ed a a hotel. Th e~ served fish for years. I would not like to be a strant!er supper . [ a-ked what kind of fish in a strange land. they were. and they said mullets. I Thank you so much for listenin/.!. 89 Robert A. Emmit In The Evening Herald July 12, 1912 llllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll1111111 111111 11 11 111 111111 111 111 1111111 11 111 11111 11 111 It is just 42 years ago today." said two miles east of Keno - Editor). Hon. R.A. Emmit, "since I first "There was then only three houses arrived in this city. I got here about 5 in Linkville," continued Mr. Emmit. o'clock in the altemoon. and came "I crossed the old bridge near the with a band of sheep from Roseburg. present one. There was an old shack Since that time I have never been near the bridge. used for a hotel. a lit­ without a job, and have always had tle store across the street I ear the plenty to eat. and have never regretted junction of Conger Avenue and Main my move.'' Street - Editor) and a log blacksmith Mr. Emmit has taken a prominent shop near where the brewery now is part in the history of Klamath county. (At approximately the entrance to both in the line of development and Coho's Motel - Editor). There were politically. Shortly alter his fi rst two or three houses scattered down the arrival, he returned to Roseburg, valley between here and the California where he was married and came back line. I don't believe there were over 75 with his bride. to make his home in white people in the county outside of the then unsettled country of the soldiers at Fort Klamath.·· Southeastern Oregon (Approximately Remme's Great Ride The Evening Herald from Shasta Forest Chips, November 23, 1940 llllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll One of the strangest and at the same Company of St. Louis. the largest time hardest feats of riding. and still banking concern on the coast and one about which little is known. was closely connected with Adams & that ride made by Louis Remme in Company. February, 1855. It covered the entire Remme raced through the street. length of the California-Oregon Trail Already a run had been started on the from Knight's Landing to Portland. bank. The director of Adams & Com- Louis Remme was a stockman who pany £led. Adams & Company were had just sold a drive of cattle and had cleaned out. Remme thought quickly. deposited $12,500 in gold with Adams Adams had a branch at Portland. & Company at Sacramento. Remme There was no railroad or telegraph. was leisurely eating his breakfast in They could not have heard the news the Orleans hotel at that city when a yet. But Portland was 700 miles away newspaper was put in his hands in- and a steamer from San Francisco was forming him that three days before the leaving with the news. Remme rushed steamship Oregon had arrived through for the river and jumped aboard the the Golden Gate and had brought stern-wheeled river paddler bound for news of the failure of Page, Bacon & Knight's Landing, 42 miles upstream. 90 At Knight's Landing Remme got a Walking this horse near a bluff near horse from Knight himself, and the Jump-Off-Joe, he suddenly bent low 700-mile race against time and the and dug in his spurs. A ball whizzed steamer began. by his ear. Five more Indian rifles At the head of Grand Island Rem­ spoke. At Cow Creek, the Indians out­ me swapped for a fresh steed from paced, he slowed up his horse. Just Judge Diefendorf. By sunset he had before daybreak the next morning he made his third or fourth change of entered the little city of Eugene, where mounts, paying a bonus plus a blown he again traded horses. He crossed the horse when necessary. and raced on. Willamette at Peoria. The day was Ten o'clock, 10 hours from mild and clear. This was the fifth day Sacramento, and he galloped into Red of his ride and Remme so far had had Bluff. Five minutes later, sandwich in ten hours of sleep. All that night he hand and a fresh horse between his continued riding. Breakfast at the knees, he was oii again. Dawn found lower end of French Prairie and a the rider at Tower House on Clear fresh horse at $5.00 to take him to Creek. This was the end of any road Oregon City. Then noon of the sixth and the beginning of the trail over day found him at Milwaukee, where Trinity Mountrun through a howling again by ferry he crossed the swollen blizzard. At Trinity Creek, now Willamette, and by one o'clock had Trinitv Center. he borrowed another reached Portland town and was put· horse . from a good-natured miner. ting his horse in a stable. From Trinity Center over Scott Moun­ He reached Adams & Company as a tain by midnight he had reached Etna cannon thumped out on the river. The in Scott valley, where Remme found steamer Columbia was announcing her slightly easier going. Six wagons had arrival. Purser Ralph Meade leaped been brought down from Oregon that from the gunwale and made for the far in '48. Adams establishment. Meade had Seventy hours out of Knight's $950.00 on deposit there, and a con­ Landing he stumbled into the mining stable's writ attached it for him. He community of Yreka. A big drink. a and Remme were the only ones who fresh horse, and he was on his way got any money. No other depositors again for the Oregon valley. got anything. At J acksonville be snatched two Seven hundred miles in five and hours sleep. There he crossed Rogue one-half days and ten hours sleep. River by means of the pioneer ferry. This was Remme's great ride. At Dardanelles he hired a fresh horse.

~ Office, at Klamath Hat Springs, probably taken shortly afte r the 1915 fire which burned the Beswick Hotel. Photo from Dibbon Cook. 91 Told To Me By Bob Adams, Sr. June 21 , 1952. I IIIII 11111111'11111111 11111111 Ill Ill 1111111 I Ill Ill Ill II 1111 Ill Ill Ill 111 1111 '!111'11 Ill 111111111 111'1111'1111'1111111 My father (J. Frank. Sr. - Editor I Tule Lake post office. also the old was at the Meiss Ranch during the Charles Beardsley place east of the Modoc War. His first place was east Carr (Daltonl Ranch. of here at the Point (Adams Point - Shasta View school was about a Editor). He bought this place from mile and a half north of the Highway. Martin Bybee. on Drain #10. Libbey school was at There used to be a lane which ran Adams Point where the crossroads on the west side of the house here, are. east of the Point. Dodd's Hollow straight south to Lost River. The old school was at the upper or north end . Colwell cabin was on the east side of Another boy and myseU once went the lane on the north bank of Lost to explore the old haunted house at River. It was just west of the group of Clear Lake one time. We got inside trees there now. T here used to be when someone sneaked up outside and another row of trees where my corral threw an old piece of iron on the roof. is now. The old cabin had port holes It bumped and thudded as it rolled off in it. It stood there until about 1919 I and we wasted no more time there. - think. when the canal was built. but got out. Some of our help used to live in it. I have been all over Bryant Moun­ One time a large family built bunks all tain riding for stock. The old mill run along one side, they had about 12 by Wurlo set in the best timber. 1 kids. T he old Ball place was about have been told of an older mill nearby. three fourths of a mile west of the In fact. I think there is an old saw Stone Bridge. The old log cabin school dust pile about one haU mile from the of Gale stood about where the oil miiJ we call the old mill. There was a tanks are now. just north of the Stone road from Lange II Valley. Clear Lake Bridge. The Whitney place was once and TuleLake to the mill.

Told To Me By Fanny Bryngelson, Daughter of Bob Adams, Sr. June 21, 1952 lllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll lllll lllllll llll lllll lllllll lll ll ll ll ll llll lllll lllll llllllllllllllllllllll llll llll ll ll ll llll lll ll ll lll ll lll ll ll lll lllllll l

Hooker Jim's camp was on the where the flume crosses Lost River north side of Lost River, a little down­ and figure it is the location of Hooker stream and east of Captain Jack's Jim's camp. camp, which was located where the The old bison fossilized bones here, Eagle Ranch buildings now stand. We came from near Bloody Point on what picked up these bones slightly east of I think is now the Anderson Ranch. 92 Swi mming pool at Beswick, Klamath Hot Springs. Photo from Oibbon Cook. Did You Know R eprinted from The Klamath News March 26, 1933. lllllllllllllllllllllll lllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll Did you know that in 1861, two Did you know that the original sur­ men murdered a widow and her two vey, by the United States, over this uaughters, at a ranch house near Soda valley and city, was made in the year Springs, on Emigrant Creek in 1858, about ten years before the ad­ Jackson County. Oregon. The house vent of a single settler. That ninety was robbed and burned, together with percent or more of the section lines, the murdered bodies. with a view of run at that date, are from one to six covering up the crime. The murderers rods too long in measurement, causing retreated to their secret hiding pLace in from one to five acres excess land in the mountains, which was about one each section. This has caused many, hall mile down Jenny Creek from many inconveniences and contentions, Pinehurst. About two weeks afterwards to land owners in establishing division one of the murderers was taken into and sub-division points and lines up to custody, at the hiding place, by two this date and probably will for all time men, and after securing a confession to come. Just how and why these ex­ of the crime. by the criminaL, these cess measurements were made is an two men formed a court. judge, jury unsolved problem. However, one may and were the executioners. surmise that the 'hind' chainman Some time afterwards, others found lagged and stretched the chain or that the body of the criminal, with a rope the full number of the bunch were around his neck hanging to the limb of scared of their lives from the deadly a tree. caused it to be cut down and Indians of that date and were in a buried. No arrests were ever made and devil of a hurry. I any event it was the other participant in the crime was very unfortunate. never apprehended. A.B. C. A.B.C. 93 The Bunnell family. 1895 Klamath Basin plon-rs, at their home near Bieber In Big Valley California In 1888. A daughter, o daughter. A.F. Bunnell, mother Matilda, ond R.H. (Bob) Bun· nell, o Klamath County Judge during the famed court house fight.

During constrvctlon of the Moln, or A Conal of the Klamath Project about 1906· 19118. The mystery of the dirt moving machine (right) seems to be solved by this picture. It was used on construct· lng the moln canal and not roods. F.M. Priest Photo 94