North Mason Woodworking Drawing Project

Hi North Mason Woodworkers,

This week we are going to look at planning options for our box project we will be building soon. Your goal is to submit a set of

plans of your own design for a small wooden box. Keep in mind it should be able to be built at home with only nails and basic joints. You should design a project that shows your knowledge of simple joinery as well as be a product that is useful to you or gforseth@northmasonsc your family. I have included a variety of example plans of hools.org

different . Many have complicated corner joints but we will not be using a rabbet joint this trimester.

360- 801-2179 Your finished drawing should include two- three views; top, side,

Leave me a voicemail if and front views. You should do your best to get it to scale, we need to. usually draw in ¼ scale. Use a ruler or straight edge to get your lines straight. All dimensions should be labeled in inches. You

also need to include a cutting list of all the parts, quantity of each

Canvas.instructure.co part and the parts dimensions. I am not expecting perfect m join code M74BR7 commercial quality plans, becoming a good draftsman takes

practice, this is high school woodworking so keep it in perspective. Any is fine, use pencil if you can. Use a ruler if

My Teacher Website you have one. Send me a pic or turn in a hard copy with your https://www.northma name and mine to the school. Please don’t return the whole sonschools.org/olc/99 . /class/2054 Use the attached article and guidebook from our first plan

drawing to help you work through your planning. Students often tell me they can’t draw, but anyone can if they practice. It

doesn’t have to be a masterpiece; it just needs to capture the

basic design that you have imagined. Some great furniture makers are not great artists, and don’t have to be. But the more you practice, the more useful your drawing skills will become. Relax and give it a try.

Safety Testing At school we have been using the Canvas program to take our safety tests. It is works really well as students get immediate feedback and can go back and retake the test until they get 100%. All the tests are available if you want to check them out.

You need to complete the two basic safety test then complete table saw, miter saw and nail guns. All the safety tests are found listed under the quizzes tab. There is an additional study guide and terms list provided in the modules tab.

If you have a canvas account use the join code M74BR7 or students can self-enroll in the course with this URL:

https://canvas.instructure.com/enroll/M74BR7

If you have not used canvas before sign up at https://canvas.instructure.com/register

Project Grading Please remember to send in a picture and or the rubric/grading sheet for your projects you have built. Don’t send in the physical projects just the paperwork and a picture if you can.

Designing Boxes The creative process is easier when you understand the options

BY DOUG STOWE

’ve been making boxes for over 30 years. Indeed, I’ve made ties to try new designs and learn new working techniques. thousands of them and I hope to make a few thousand more Consider, too, that you can make a box from bits of left Iin the years to come. over from larger projects, so wood costs are minimal. I can’t cover decades of box-making knowledge in a single Not only can they be beautiful to look at—masterpieces in article, but I can share some of the things I consider when miniature—but boxes are perfect for storing everything from designing a box—wood, corner joints, , bottom, feet, pulls, jewelry to stamps, and keepsakes to odd change. and dividers. Armed with a few good options for each element, you’ll have no trouble designing all sorts of beautiful boxes on Doug Stowe lives in your own. Eureka Springs, Ark. His Online Extra Box making appeals to me for many reasons. I enjoy the pro- latest book and DVD is Watch a video of Stowe resawing and mitering wood at cess of design. And because boxes come together more quickly Basic Box Making (The FineWoodworking.com/extras. than many other woodworking projects, I have more opportuni- Taunton Press, 2007)

62 FINE WOODWORKING Photos, except where noted: Michael Pekovich; this page: Tom Begnal

COPYRIGHT 2008 by The Taunton Press, Inc. Copying and distribution of this article is not permitted. Contrast adds interest Designing Unlimited design possibilities open up when you vary the texture and color of the wood or introduce contrasting materials Boxes such as stone, metal, or fiber.

Mix the . Stowe often makes the sides and top from two different woods, playing with the contrast in color and grain.

Vary the texture. Don’t be afraid to explore differ- ent textures. Knots, knotholes, and live edges ac- centuate the natural look of the wood. Rough-carved surfaces encourage both looking and touching. Roughsawn sides married to finished tops and bottoms create inter- esting visual conflicts.

Resaw for continuous grain

I like small boxes to have thin sides, in proportion with the overall scale. Rather than running stock through a thickness planer and wasting a lot of beautiful wood, I get thin- ner stock by resawing. Resawing also means I can get all of the parts for a box from a single board, with matching grain at all four corners.

1. On the bandsaw, resaw stock 2. Open the halves to put the resawn surfaces 3. Then miter the ends and assemble the to produce a pair of book-matched on the outside of the box. Cut at the dotted box as shown for continuous grain around all halves. lines to create four sides. four sides.

www.finewoodworking.com MARCH/APRIL 2008 63

COPYRIGHT 2008 by The Taunton Press, Inc. Copying and distribution of this article is not permitted. Most corner-joint options are more than strong enough to hold Choose corner joints early on together a relatively light box. And joints with minimal strength, like butt joints and miter joints, are easily reinforced. So, most times, I base my choice of corner joint on appearance rather than strength. Splined miters add interest to the corners, especially when the splines are made from a wood that contrasts with the box sides (left). A hidden, vertical spline works well if you don’t want to dis- turb the appearance of the grain as it wraps around the corners. If the stock is thick enough, you can make the job a little easier by substituting biscuits for splines (center). A more rustic appearance can be had by adding dowel pins to a rabbet joint (right).

SPLINED MITER Slot for spline BISCUITED MITER PINNED RABBET Rabbet joint Slot for biscuit

Dowel pins Spline Biscuit

Traditional favorites

The classic dovetail joint (left) never goes out of style. Feel free to vary the dovetail angle and spacing to get the look you want. Finger joints (right) are also eye- catching, and easy to make on the tablesaw using a shopmade crosscut jig.

64 FINE WOODWORKING Drawings: Stephen Hutchings

COPYRIGHT 2008 by The Taunton Press, Inc. Copying and distribution of this article is not permitted. Don’t overlook the feet Add feet to a box and you immediately create a different look. Feet can be as unassuming as small, rounded disks (top left). You also can make feet simply by cutting away some of the bottom edge of Rounded disk. A single countersunk screw driven through the bottom of the each side (bottom left), or mounting the Cutaway base frame. Cutting away disk secures it to the corner of the box. box to a mitered base frame with the bot- the bottom edge of a base frame also produces feet. tom edge cut away (top right). Sometimes, to give a box a more bal- anced look, I make an oversize bottom (bottom right) that gives the look of a continuous around the perimeter. Generally, I simply round over the edges of this base, and attach it with screws to the bottom edge of the sides. Oversize holes for the screw shanks allow the base to expand and contract in width due to seasonal changes in humidity. Counter- sink the screw holes so they sit just below Cutaway sides. By cutting away the Oversize flat bottom. An oversize bottom edge of the sides, the box effec- the surface. flat base creates the look of a molding tively ends up with four feet. around the bottom of the box.

Dividers and trays add versatility Some boxes become more useful when you add dividers or trays. A box I make for holding stationery (left) has a sliding tray with three routed recesses for stamps and paper clips, plus a groove to hold a favorite writing pen. My jewelry box (below left) has a fully divided bottom with additional dividers in a sliding tray. A keepsake box (below right) has a mix of six small and three large compartments.

It pays to plan. If you’re building a box for a specific use, plan any dividers and trays early in the process. Their size, number, and location will have a lot to do with the ultimate size and shape of the box.

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COPYRIGHT 2008 by The Taunton Press, Inc. Copying and distribution of this article is not permitted. Lid choices abound

Two-part lid. Design possibilities soar when you start thinking about the Stowe used shop- lid. Choices include two-part (top left), sliding lids made wooden (center left) and rabbeted lift-off lids (bottom left). hinges here. Lids can be made from a single piece of solid wood or The hinge pins are brass. some variation of a frame and panel. I commonly use an overlapping raised panel that locks into the sides of the lid (below right). Space inside the grooves allows room for wood movement caused by seasonal changes in humidity. To allow that move- ment, it’s important not to glue the panel in place.

RAISED PANEL

Sawn off. The top, Sliding. You open and close bottom, and sides the top on this pencil box by are assembled, then sliding it. Groove in lid the lid is cut off panel and about 1 in. below box sides the top edge. Rabbeted lift-off. Gravity holds this lid in place. A rabbet around Cut here. the underside of the lid keeps it centered. A pull can push the A well-designed pull looks good while making it easier to open a box. Shown here are some of my favorites. There are as many possibilities as there are types of boxes, so don’t restrict your- self to only these designs. Add a little imagination and soon Turned. Small lathe turnings make T-shaped. This profile quietly in- Fan-shaped. Rounded and you’ll be inventing your own. wonderful pulls. A single brass vites the thumb and fore fingers, softened edges give this pull screw holds each one in place. and is good for heavier lids. a delicate look that works nicely with lightweight lids.

66 FINE WOODWORKING

COPYRIGHT 2008 by The Taunton Press, Inc. Copying and distribution of this article is not permitted. Hinges, from hidden to handmade Sliding and rabbeted lift-off lids can become awkward to use when boxes get around 12 in. square or bigger. At that size, I generally find that hinged lids work better. Depending on the box design, there are several hinge types that I commonly use. Each type adds a distinctive look. Wood. Shopmade hinges add to the handmade appeal. The flat version (above) is screwed from the bottom. Wood pins secure an L-shaped hinge (right).

Specialty hinges

A butt hinge (left) with a built-in stop at 95º lets the lid tip back enough to keep it from falling closed (www.brusso.com). Barbed hinges (below) slip into thin kerfs. They need no screws and are almost invis- ible (www. rockler .com).

Leather. Three pieces of leather—two end pieces and a center piece—are secured with brass tacks to create a unique hinge.

Bent-wire. A single bent Flat. Flat stock doweled to a pair of posts Front-mounted. Mounted to Live-edge. The natural curve wire gives a unique look. This adds an Asian flavor. Scale the size up or the front of a hinged lid, the pull of a live edge works perfectly one is from Horton Brasses down depending on the box dimensions. serves as a lifting point. as a lift for some boxes. (www.horton-brasses.com).

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COPYRIGHT 2008 by The Taunton Press, Inc. Copying and distribution of this article is not permitted.

Planning Process Guide Book

Preparing to start a wood project must be an intentional act. In other words, you must set out the time to think through what you’re going to do before you ever begin cutting. The person who begins a project without planning properly wastes time, energy, money, and materials. This type of negligence will produce nothing but frustration.

Project preparation begins with knowing where you are and where you want to be. Sure, that may sound easy when it comes to a woodworking project. Anyone can say, “I don’t have a cabinet in my room. I want a cabinet in my room.” But proper project preparation requires a whole lot more than that. Project preparation begins with knowing how something will be built before you ever begin, and seeing in your mind’s eye what the finished product will look like. That’s called forethought.

Next, you must develop a thorough plan. Without a detailed plan, the road to completion produces more mistakes than results. This means taking the time to draw your building plans and write down important notes.

After the plan is developed, envision the end product. Draw a picture of what the project will look like. This will help you put the project together in your mind and it will give you a clear idea of what you want to accomplish. Think of this pictorial as a snap shot of what you plan to build.

Finally, keep yourself organized by placing everything in a portfolio. Keeping organized will save you a lot of headaches.

Forethought

Imagine the possibilities: Think outside of the box. If you can dream it, it can be done. Don’t just do what you’ve always done. Stretch yourself. No one gets anywhere by doing the same thing over and over again. Get new ideas from the internet, magazines, and/or books.

Think it through: Once you’ve dreamt up the idea, think it through. Consider how it will go together, the type of hardware you will need, the type of joints you will use, the type of wood, and more.

Sketch up the idea: Once you have imagined the possibilities and thought through the process draw a rough sketch of your project. This will further help you consider how the project will be built and what it will look like. Develop the plan:

Determine overall measurements: Dimensions don’t need to be exact at this time. Simply decide the height, depth, and length of your project. Include these on your sketch

Draw the Plans: Plan the work, work the plan. At the very least, your plans will have a top view, front view, and side view. If your wood project will be a or box of any kind, you will need to include a section (a look inside to show how it is built). If your project has more than one piece, such as drawers for a cabinet, you will need to have separate views of each piece. Sketch these drawings out in scale on graph paper first. After the corrections have been made, then draw your final set of working drawings.

Develop the Cutting List: The cutting list includes every piece of lumber you will use to build your project and the exact finished cut size of that lumber.

Plan Drawing

Introduction: Before you begin any construction project, you should think it through. Thinking a project through means that you take the time to anticipate problems, solve assembly solutions, and determine the exact size and location of materials. During construction is not the time to think about such things. In other words, plan the work and work the plan. Plan ahead for everything, and once it is fully planned, follow the plans. To help do this, you will need to complete a set of working plans.

Working plans, sometimes called working drawings, are two-dimensional drawings of how an object is built. They are the visual instructions. While sketches can communicate what the object will look like, the working plans communicate how it will be fabricated or constructed. Working plans, therefore, contain: (1) images of the object in different views; (2) the measurements (called dimensions) of all necessary lengths, heights, depths, angles, and locations; (3) detailed drawings, such as sections and enlargements; and (4) important notes.

Plan Elements: The information you incorporate into your working plans is important. Done incorrectly and the process of building a project will produce frustration and mistakes, possibly even failure. To properly think through a project while developing the working plans, you will need to know the elements to incorporate into your drawings. The elements listed below make up what we call a set of working drawings. Before you begin drawing, first think of your project in separate parts, such as the body of the cabinet, the drawers, and the doors. Simply put, if any part of your project can move, slide, or rotate consider it a separate part. Each part will have its own set of drawings. You will first draw a rough layout, or a scaled sketch, of your project incorporating the elements listed below. Think of the rough layout as the first draft of a writing exercise. It gets your thoughts on paper, but it will not be as perfect as the final draft. Therefore, drawing clean, straight lines is not important at this time. Simply think through the construction of your project and draw it on paper. This will allow you to consider all aspects of the project and discover any problems before you get started. Finally, once the rough draft is complete, draw your final set of working drawings. Both your rough layout and your completed set of working drawings will contain the following:

1. Title block: Begin with your title block. The title block borders the area on your paper where you will draw. It is drawn with thick lines just inside the boundaries of your paper, and will be the same on every page. Moreover, the title block contains important information about your drawing, such as the title/name of the project, the scale, your name, date, and drawing number.

2. Front view: Draw the front view first. The front view is the view you would see when standing in front of the object. Begin drawing near the bottom left corner of your paper. Make certain to leave space for notes and dimensions. All other views will “fold out” from your front view. Note, in rare cases a left side view or a bottom view will be required. In this case plan accordingly.

3. Right side view: As the name implies, the right side view is the image of the object when looking at the right side of your front view. The drawing will be the exact height as the front view. On smaller projects, this view is drawn directly to the right of the front view. On larger projects, the right side view may have to be placed on the second page.

4. Top view: The top view is the view looking down on your object. On smaller projects, this view is drawn directly above the front view. It will be the exact width of your front view. On larger projects, the top view may have to be drawn on the third page.

5. Sections: A section is a cut away of the object. In other words, it is what you would see on the inside if the object were to be cut open. This allows the builder to see how the object is constructed, what type of cuts to make (dado, rabbet, dowel, etc.), where joints are located, and how the project is assembled.

6. Details: Detail drawings are enlarged drawings of complex joints and/or assemblies, which make it easier to understand exactly how something is to be constructed. These might include how door hinges are attached, the size and location of a mortise and tendon, or the shape of a beveled/contoured edge.

7. Dimensions: All measurements for cutting and constructing your project must be included in the drawing. Your dimensions not only communicate the height, depth, and length of an object, but also the location of each attached piece of lumber, special cut-outs, hole location, and hole size.

8. Special notes: In some cases, special notes may be required, such as the types of material used or the name of hardware being used. These are indicated on the drawing with an arrow beginning either at the first or last word of your note and pointing to the location referenced. Line types and drafting symbols When drawing a set of working plans, it is important to use correct lines and drafting symbols. These will help you read your plans easily and understand the instructions clearly. Below are basic drawing standards used throughout the world.

Line types and drafting symbols When drawing a set of working plans, it is important to use correct lines and drafting symbols. These will help you read your plans easily and understand the instructions clearly. Below are basic drawing standards used throughout the world. Line types and thicknesses

Cutting List

Effective project preparation does not only involve drawing a set of usable, easy to read working plans. It also involves developing a plan for cutting lumber. This plan is called the cutting list or cutting schedule. The cutting list, lists each part of your project, the number of pieces you will need, the finished cut size, the type of lumber, and the identification of purchased lumber from which the part will be cut. In cases where is used, a drawing of each sheet of plywood and how it will be cut is also included. Developing a Cutting Schedule: Once you have completed your working drawings, you will

need to determine the final cut-size of each piece. First, create a table with six columns labeled as follows:

1. Key: Begin by assigning each piece of your project a letter (A, B, C, etc.). Use the letter to each part on your rough layout as shown on the illustration to the right.

2. Parts: Next, name the piece (Back, front, top, leg, etc.)

3. Pieces: If the part to be cut is duplicated, number the amount of pieces you will need to cut. For instance, if you are making a dining room table, you will need 4 legs. If you are making a nightstand, you will need two sides. Since these parts are the exact same size, you need only write the part once and label the amount of pieces.

4. Size: Determine the exact size of your final piece after you cut it. Record the dimension. This will tell you the size to cut your wood.

5. Material: List the type of material you will use (oak, pine, redwood, etc.). This is particularly important if you are using more than one type of lumber. 6. Cut from: List the lumber in its store-bought size from which you will cut the part (1x4x8; ¾” plywood; 2x6x4; etc.). This will tell you from which piece of store bought lumber to cut.

When finished, your cutting schedule will look something like the image below. Obviously this is for a more complicated project, but it illustrates the organization of parts.