Big Sur Coast: a Scenic Drive
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California’s Big Sur Coast: A Scenic Drive Author’s Note: This article “California’s Big Sur Coast: A Scenic Drive” is also a chapter in my travel guidebook/ebook Northern California Travel: The Best Options. That book is available in English as a book/ebook and also as an ebookin Chinese. Parallel coverage on Northern California occurs in my latest travel guidebook/ebook Northern California History Travel Adventures: 35 Suggested Trips. All my travel guidebooks/ebooks on California can be seen on my Amazon Author Page. By Lee Foster A Big Sur drive presents one of the most dramatic coastlines in California, winding 26 miles between Carmel and Big Sur. The road twists along rugged, rocky cliffs, passing sandy beaches, all against a backdrop of low coastal mountains. Fog in summer and rain in winter can add somber drama to the changing perspectives. Spring and autumn allure with piercing visual clarity and extraordinary color. Occasional scenic turnouts on this Highway 1 path highlight selected views. A traveler notices the smell of sage in the air, the appearance of ships on the horizon amidst a coastal and sea wilderness, the changing color of the sea from green to deep blue to gray under altering light conditions. Always, the violent surf pounds incessantly on the granite shore in a cosmic lullaby. The drive runs 75 miles all the way from Point Lobos down to Hearst Castle at Santa Lucia. However, for most travelers the final point of a Big Sur excursion is Nepenthe’s restaurant and bar, just south of Big Sur. Most visitors make the trip in their private or rented cars. Consider Carmel as a Base for Exploration of Big Sur Many visitors use the Monterey area, especially Carmel, as a base for exploring Big Sur. Carmel has an abundance of excellent inns and restaurants. One choice option, an illustration of the intimate Carmel style, would be the Coachman’s Inn, a Four Sisters Inn, on San Carlos between 7th and 8th, 831-624-6421, https://www.coachmansinn.com. Guests enjoy 30 well-appointed rooms, with all amenities, plus convivial mingling in the common area for wine time in the evening and breakfast before a day of excursions. Generous pourings of evening wine complement the home-made hot cheese dip hors d’oeuvres. Breakfast will likely feature baked egg and ham dishes with scones. The location puts you within walking distance of downtown Carmel shops and small restaurants. Lovely Carmel Beach, nearby, entices for walks. Start Your Big Sur Adventure at Point Lobos Start the drive just south of Carmel at Point Lobos, the spectacular outdoor treasure of trails, groves, shoreline, and beaches that is a crown jewel of the state park system. A traveler who vacillates and lingers at Point Lobos could spend much of the day there. Pause for an hour at least to give this treasured seaside state park a look. One treat here is the special vegetation, meaning the Monterey pine and Monterey cypress, plus the offshore kelp beds. The fauna is as rewarding as the flora. Sea otter, seals, sea lions, and passing whales delight the visitor. Sea Lion Point and Trail would be a choice place to walk out to the bluff overlooks for a view of the kelp forests and non-stop wave theatre. Whale watching is a popular pastime at Point Lobos in the winter months of December and January. Enthusiasts follow the southbound migration of the Pacific gray whales, moving from chilly Arctic waters to warm Scammon’s Lagoon in mid Baja California to give birth and mate again. The whales can also be seen in March and April, as they head north, but the southward migration is more spectacular to view because the whales tend to be closer to shore and expend more energy on leaping and spouting. The final parking lot in Point Lobos in the Hidden Beach area is a delightful stop. Pause here to step out for a view of the long ocean and rocky shore landscape looking north. Walk south here on the Bird Island Trail to see a joyful nature accessible only to the walker. Heading South into Big Sur As you head south, the first major landmark is Garrapata Beach Park, a stretched- out state park with many access points and little signage on the road. Look for turnouts next to the road. Garrapata starts about four miles south of Point Lobos. Park on the shoulder and walk the trails to rock faces and to some coarse sand beaches with lovely rock and cave formations. The north end of Garrapata is rocky, the south end is sandy. Improvements at Garrapata in recent years highlight tourism development at its best, something to savor before becoming familiar with the challenges of Big Sur tourism farther south today. California’s visionary citizens financed with state park bonds an elaborate Garrapata Beach Bluff Trail, with careful steps allowing safe passage over several miles of steep terrain. This Garrapata Beach Bluff Trail disperses travelers into life-enhancing private moments with nature. Stunning sea views at Garrapata are among the loveliest in all of Big Sur. What was done right at Garrapata is in sharp contrast with some of the out-of-control challenges of travel to Big Sur, as noted below. South of Garrapata, at the 11-mile point, a road leads right to Rocky Point Restaurant. Rocky Point, with its floodlit surf in the evening, possesses a fairytale aura at which to place seafood in front of the patron and have it flavored, imaginatively, with sea salt air. Certainly, enjoy the view and a drink or meal at Rocky Point. The gourmet might also consider the Ventana Inn and Post Ranch Inn, farther south, for fine dining. Overtourism Social Media Challenges at Big Sur Bixby Bridge Spreading travelers out on the long personal nature-discovery trail at Garrapata is a sharp contrast with the pressure of popularity you will find further south. Choke points include Bixby Bridge, Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park with its Keyhole Rock beach, and Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park with its McWay Falls. Social Media, especially Instagram and Facebook, have made these locations immensely popular. The movie and TV series Big Little Lies, with its shots of the Bixby Bridge, make both the U.S. and international traveler want to experience this place. A wise traveler will do everything possible to travel on a weekday rather than weekend, in the off-season if possible, and get an early start in the morning. Concern over summer and autumn wildfires is a further new element, after the huge Soberanes Fire in 2017, which burned 132K acres east of Garrapata, due to an illegal camping open campfire. Containing the fire cost an estimated $260mil, making it the most costly wildfire in U.S. history. Escape routes for locals in a wildfire situation and protection of land and property threatened by wildfires have become priorities in the management of Big Sur. Landslides in wet winters, about 20 in the wet year of 2017, can close the road for long periods, so check local conditions at the time of your intended trip. Road repair in summer and autumn is an annual factor. The Mud Creek landslide of 2017 totally closed the Big Sur Highway 1 for one year. Allow for slowdowns due to ongoing road repair. Big Sur travel has its challenges, affecting both visitors and the locals. Palo Colorado Road At the 11.3-mile point a tempting side trip, Palo Colorado Road, extends to the left. As the name suggests, the road winds through a “trees colored red” forest redwood environment deep into the hills, finally ending up eight miles later at Bottcher’s Gap, a primitive campsite and access point to the Ventana Wilderness in the Los Padres National Forest. Big Sur is the southernmost natural range of the famous coastal redwood trees, which flourish along a coastal strip from Southern Oregon to the Soda Springs drainage of Big Sur. Redwoods like the moist winter and cool foggy summer climate along the coast. The dryness of this environment in summer is deceptive. Back in the Big Sur hills, a 50-inch per year rainfall level is common. Photogenic Bixby Bridge Back on Highway 1, Bixby Bridge is the next attraction. Bixby may be the most- photographed bridge in the world after the Golden Gate, partly because it was, for a time, the longest concrete single-span bridge in existence. Observation points from the northern end provide stunning views of the ocean. Allow plenty of time to get a parking spot and take a look. It is difficult to imagine how inhospitable to travel this region was until bridges, such as Bixby, provided the final links in the road, in 1937. Prior to that time, in the Spanish mission era, the padres and soldiers turned inland, far to the south, at Nacimiento Grade, and penetrated the mountains to Jolon, then traveled north along the easy routes in the Monterey/Salinas Valley to Monterey. They avoided entirely the impassable world of Big Sur. Big Sur was then known simply as El Sur Grande, “the great south area,” which suggests how the center of the California universe was Monterey, and how Big Sur was that impenetrable land south of the Spanish capital of Monterey. During the 19th century, boats brought supplies to the isolated ranching families and lighthouse tenders who inhabited this area. A family might wait three to four months for any contact with the outside world. Point Sur Lighthouse Station At the westerly extremity of Point Sur, the Point Sur Lighthouse Station stands on a promontory of volcanic rock and thrusts a million-candle-power beam visible for 25 miles.