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Sailing to the IJsselmeer through the Dutch Canals 27th February 2006

Cruising the is more about visiting historic waterside towns rather than seeking out beautiful anchorages, and a particularly attractive enclosed cruising area with just such picturesque places is the IJsselmeer, which used to be called the Zuider Zee when it was open to the sea. A special joy of the Netherlands is the warmth of the Dutch people and their command of the English language. Moreover the simple Dutch words on their charts such as brug meaning bridge and sluis meaning sluice or lock, dijk meaning dyke and kerk meaning church are easy to understand.

From Dover the nearest point of the Netherlands to enter the famous waterways is . Stay clear of the main ferry cross-channel route after leaving Dover by sailing five miles to the east before entering the separation zone. Then take the coastal channel off Dunkerque, stopping at convenient ports, either in France or Belgium, such as Dunkerque or Nieupoort. Note that there has been a substantial movement of the sandbanks at the Suyd Coote Pas, which has been reflected in a change in buoyage, but is probably not shown on anything but the most recent charts. At Dunkerque, the YCMN marina provides a satisfactory berth, as does KYCN marina at Nieuwpoort.

After locking in at Vlissingen from the Westerschelde there is a small marina at the start of the Kanaal door some way from the town centre, but with all normal facilities. There is nothing to stop the use of sails in the canals so use of a furling headsail is entirely practical, though tacking is forbidden. Halts in canals to await the opening of bridges usually happen too often to justify hoisting a mainsail and, if there is a time constraint, a lot of engine use is probable. There are five canal bridges on the way to Middelburg, the first of a number of charming Dutch towns that should be visited. The VHF channel for each bridge is posted clearly for vessels on the canal and, if necessary, one can talk directly to the operator to find out when the bridge will be opened, but usually it does not take long. As the bridge starts to lift, and well before the canal traffic light turns green, local craft may speed up and jostle for position to pass through as soon as possible, sometimes only avoiding contact with each other and the partly opened bridge by what seems to be a mere whisker. By shrewd timing and ingenious arrangement the Dutch have perfected the art of operating their bridges to cause minimum disruption to both water and road traffic. Indeed if a vessel loiters a moment the bridge is likely to close again. Having negotiated the bridges, the yacht harbour at Middelburg is recommended; berthing in the characteristic Dutch fashion, i.e. bow to a pontoon and stern between posts, as for most of the Netherlands.

It is a pleasure to wander through the narrow streets of the clean and tidy town of Middelburg, rebuilt after bomb damage in WW2. Amongst other delights to enjoy is the Albert de Goeij antique clock shop, the substantial and beautifully restored 15th Century town hall, and local delicacies such as raw herrings with chopped onion, smoked eels and Dutch gin. As good a place to dine as any is at the PackHuys restaurant, only a stone's throw from the inner harbour. Page 2 of 4 From Middelburg there is only a short trip along the canal, past fields of ruminating cattle, to the exquisite little town of that used to have access to the , but is now is several miles inland as a result of the Veersegat Dam. Helped by King James of Scotland's daughter marrying the Lord of Veere, the small town once had a lively commercial exchange with Scotland, particularly the import of wool, and even managed to acquire its own tartan. After exploring the streets, bicycles can be rented to explore the Polderdijk beside the Veerse Meer. At the village of Vrouwenpolder, there are more raw herrings on offer as well as suitable places to eat and drink. One can return by the Veersegat Dam.

Back at Veere if any energy is left, for there are 250 steps to climb, a good view can be found at the top of the grand church, once appropriated by Napoleon for use as a hospital. It could accommodate 3000 of his wounded soldiers. An economical dinner can be had ashore at the excellent Veere Yacht Club, which is open to visiting yachtsmen. From Veere, sailing through the attractive Veerse Meer, with its small islands and island harbours is as good as it gets. is still largely rural, unlike much of the Netherlands, and the wooded banks and islands make an ideal backdrop. Elegant great crested grebes are to be found in profusion on the Veerse Meer, as well as the Ijsselmeer, indeed there is a profusion of birdlife on the waterways.. Once locked out into the Oosterschelde sails can be hoisted again, and it is worth passing through the Zeelandbrug in order to visit Zierikzee. This is a fortified town, moated like Middelburg and many of the older towns, and also, typically, it was immensely wealthy in the Middle Ages when open to the North Sea. The russet tiled buildings are built in the traditional Dutch style; the large windows are kept clean and a number of the gabled ends of buildings lean outwards over the street. Churches often have onion shaped domes, the squares are mostly cobbled and the streets narrow. There is hardly any natural stone to be found in the Netherlands, so older buildings are made of small hand made bricks. From Zierikzee it is easy to take a bus trip to the Delta Expohaven to view the feats of hydraulic technology in the construction of the great barriers to prevent repetition of the flooding in the Delta. Flooding has caused great loss of life over the years, the most recent occasion being in February 1953 when 1800 Dutch lives were lost. Sluices have been incorporated to allow the passage of the tidal flow and thus preserve the eco system within this part of the Delta.

British yachts are quite common on the Delta. Indeed there are some British people used to regularly sail to the Netherlands from the East Coast but now find it easier to keep their boat in Zeeland and commute by air. From Zierikzee, Brouwershaven in the Grevelingenmeer makes a less frequented stop, and boats with a moderate draught can visit the island harbours on the way up the Grevelingenmeer. Brouwershaven used to be a major seaport when it was open to the sea. The Brouwerie Restaurant in Molen Straat - Windmill Street - makes a good dinner destination if eating ashore.

After passing though the Grevelingensluis, the Krammersluizen and the Volkeraksluizen, Willemstad makes a splendid overnight berth. On the way up the Volkerak bird life is plentiful and flocks of geese may be seen that one would expect to be breeding in Siberia in summer. Once in Willemstad, one can roam around the pleasing little moated town with its seven bastions, keeping in the shade of the trees of the Voorstraat on the way to the big Koepelkerk if it is hot. If eating ashore in the evening, try the De Rosmolen restaurant. Page 3 of 4 The interesting route through the 'mast-up' canal system starts after Willemstad. To make swift progress it is necessary that certain bridge opening times be made as some subsequent bridges open for just a short period in the middle of the day. For example north of the Braasermeer, the Weteringbrug first opens at 0600, and this early opening has to be made in order to reach the Sassenheim bridge, three nautical miles further on, that opens at 0658 and then does not open again until 1228. Having made the Sassenheim bridge at 0658, it should be possible to make the Spaarndam bridge north of Haarlem when it opens between 1200 and 1300. Otherwise there is no option but to wait until it opens again between 1930 and 2030. Even when meeting the canal route's mildly challenging starting times, the passage is great fun.

The strong following current in the River Maas will ensure that good time will be made to the first bridge at . Then go on to the Juliana lock at Gouda and go on again through a mixture of built up and farming country, dotted with windmills. At Alphen aan de Rijn there is a choice of an east or west route. One can either go west through Leiden or go east though the Braasermeer where there are convenient berths to spend the night. Later, at Weteringbrug there is the choice of the route through Haarlem, or through Amsterdam. The latter route can only be done by travelling in convoy, which assembles at 2300. Crossing Amsterdam by night is a thrilling experience, but afterwards half a day will probably be needed in making up for lost sleep.

If using the Haarlem route, it is necessary to leave the Braasermeer early in the morning to catch the key Sassenheim bridges, but watch the depth in the middle of the canal just before Elsboekerbrug. Normally there is three or four metres depth in the canals but here there is a sand-loading berth for barges on the canal side, and some of the sand has probably heaped up on the bottom, reducing the depth to less than two metres. Plenty of depth will be found by going close to the loading berth side of the canal. Numerous enormous barges will be seen on the waterways of the Netherlands, moving numerous different cargos. Vast and unmanoeuvrable though they are, barges tend to be skilfully handled. Clearly it is wise to keep clear of them and give way to them but, as priority is usually given to working barges, it will pay to follow behind them as bridges then miraculously open with no delay.

The Haarlem route comes out about half way down the Zee Kanaal that links the North Sea and Amsterdam. Sixhaven is the popular Amsterdam yacht berth, with easy access to the city, but currently this harbour is crowded and noisy due to the construction of a new underground station. There are other berths on the north shore further on such as at Aeolus, and some favour an ad hoc berth at Ertshaven. Amsterdam should not be missed as it has a wealth of outstandingly good museums and art galleries, and Sixhaven is probably still the best place to stay if visiting the city in spite of the construction works.

From Amsterdam one heads east towards the Markermeer, this being the inland sea south of the IJsselmeer, through the Oranjesluizen and the Schellingwouderbrug. Thereafter sails can be hoisted though initially, to avoid running aground, it may be necessary to stay in the main channel. Recommended towns to visit are Marken, an old Zuider Zee fishing village, pretty Monnickendam, Edam, a 14th Century centre of the Dutch cheese trade, and Hoorn, an East India Company port, all on the west side of the Markemeer. Flevoland, to the east, is new and less attractive. It was only reclaimed after World War II and lies four metres below sea level. Page 4 of 4 The Markerwaarddijk separates the Markermeer from the IJsse1meer, and can be reached through the Krabbersgatsluis. Immediately at hand is the town of Enkhuizen, another East India Company port, which is certainly worth a visit. Berths can be found at the Royal Netherlands marina by the station at Buyshaven or, more centrally, at the Oosterhaven. It is wise to allow most of the day to visit the Zuider Zee indoor and outdoor museum. Either the Drie Haringe or the Van Bleiswijk restaurants are recommended if one wishes to dine in style.

The Afluitsdijk, built in 1932, is 17 nautical miles in length and encloses the IJsselmeer, which is rich in ports with fascinating histories. Apart from Enkhuizen, other particularly recommended visits amongst many are to Medemblik and Hindeloopen. Medemblik is a beautiful town with a 13th Century Castle, and is also famous for international dinghy regattas. Hinde1oopen is an attractive village with a fine restaurant called 'the Gasterie', and an indoor swimming pool by the yacht berths. The rabbits are so remarkably tame that they sprawl on their backs in the sun at one's feet.

Sailing through the waterways of the Netherlands to the IJsselmeer is a joy, but needs a little planning. The canals, locks and some harbours can be uncomfortably crowded in the holiday season between mid July and the end of August, so it is wise to try to avoid this period. Required by law is the waterway regulations book Almanak voor Watertoerisme Vol 1, written in Dutch. On the other hand Volume 2 gives bridge opening times, which is more useful and can be more easily understood! Bridge opening times are also to be found in the 'Staande Mastroute', a publication that is essential for sailing vessels when their masts are in place. Dutch small craft charts are useful too, though a modern chart plotter may have the same information. The Dutch tidal atlas is handy, though Macmillans does provide minimal information. Big yachts should have the International Certificate for Operator of Pleasure Craft, valid for coastal and inland waterways.

The canals, rivers, lakes, bridges and locks of the Netherlands will charm every sailor. In additiont those who sometimes find the open sea a little too challenging will simply love these sheltered waters where there is always some place close by where a vessel can stop and tie up.

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