Cruising Guide to

jaguar kitten

CRUISING GUIDE TO GUYANA

Essiquibo dawn, Mariana Niehaus 208 Sailors Guide to the

Highest and oldest building in the worldGeorgetown,

Mother of all lillypads Cruising Guide to Guyana

Porknockers, Mariana Niehaus 209 Cruising Guide to Guyana

Guyana at a glance

Regulations assistance (092) and ask. See Customs in Cruising information and Regulations in Anchorages in Guyana. Electricity You must proceed to a port of clearance Electricity in Guyana is 110 or 220 (). Do not explore any other rivers volts, 50 or 60 cycles. (for example the Waini river on the border Transport with Venezuela) without permission. Bartica, the main town in the area Public Holidays we are encouraging yachts to visit, is 40 January 1 ~ New Year's day miles up the Essequibo River. February 23rd ~Mashramani Celebrations / The main way to get to Georgetown is Republic Day by ferry to Parika (about $10 US pp) and March ~ Phagwah Celebrations then a taxi to Georgetown ($20-25US)., Good Friday to Easter Monday. Easter is or minibus (about $1 US). Ferries also go April 8, 2007; March 23, 2008 and upriver to other settlements, and the rides April 12, 2009, April 4, 210. For can be interesting as you sometimes go dates later than 2010 check links on through rapids. Local buses cost $1-1.50. doyleguides.com. If you want to return to Bartica on the May 1st ~ Labour Day same day, be at the Parika Stelling by 1530 May 5th ~ Arrival Day hours, as the last water taxi back to Bartica May- Youman-Nabi departs Parika at 1600 sharp! May 26th ~ Independence Day If you are arriving or leaving by plane, July- 1st Monday in July ~ Caricom Day fares are fixed and listed at the airport, you August 1st Monday ~ Emancipation Day/ should only use official airport taxis who Folk Festival have a badge. Fares between the airport September and Georgetown are $17-20 US. October/ November- Diwali Buses are the main local form of trans- December 25 ~ Christmas Day port, and very inexpensive, taxis for short December 26 ~ Boxing Day runs are also very reasonable. December 31 ~ Old Year’s Day Travelling to areas out of central Georgetown, prices will tend to vary. It Currency is important to come to an agreement on The Guyana dollar is a floating the cost of the taxi before entering. To currency about US$1 ~ G$200, check the interior , travel arrangements may be www.doyleguides.com for a currency made with local busing service, trucks, converter link. Major credits cards and jeeps, chartered planes and speedboats. traveller’s cheques are generally accepted at A guide is advisable for longer distance many resorts, hotels, gift shops, restaurants travel to the interior. and tour operators. Rented cars are also available. Drive on the left. Telephones Departure tax is G$4000, only Guy- Buying a cell phone (pre-paid cards), ana dollars accepted. or local Sim chip is probably the best solu- Guyana has the good Cheddi Jaga tion for making calls. Local Sims are about international airport (IATA: GEO) with G$5000 from GT&T Cellink Plus. connection to major destinations includ- From the USA you dial 1+592+seven ing: Trinidad (1hour) , Miami (4.5 hours), digit number. For the code to call out dial Toronto (6 hours), London (8 hours)

210 About this guide

When I sailed the Atlantic in 1969, my first stop was French Guiana. From here I sailed up to Guyana, a place then, as today almost unvisited by yachts. I was warmly welcomed and royally entertained; it was a visit I never forgot. So when, towards the end of 05, Don Stollmeyer and I were invited to visit Guyana with a view to getting it in my cruising guides. I was delighted to accept. Yachting in Guyana is still in its infancy. It will appeal to those adventurous Mariana Niehaus souls who wish to visit somewhere really off the beaten track. You won’t be the first to cautiously and keep in mind that this is the just second edition of this book with few users ~ you are helping test it. We have done our best to get it right, but can make no guarantees. Unlike my other guides, this is mainly the work of others. Simon Wall researched the original cruising information. He went up down the Essequibo four times taking depths and plotting positions. Peter Ward provided much of the updates for this edition, and his partner Mariana provided many photos. Most other Photos are courtesy the Guy- ana Tourist Authority, who also provided mot of the general information. Some came from Paul Stephenson from Cara resorts and a few of the mundane ones are mine. Essiquibo, Mariana Niehaus Joyce Davis is amajor contributers to up- dating this edition, and and Kit Nascimento come here; since this guide came out a few also hgelped. If you venture up the river you daring cruisers have trickled in, with about will surely meet them. a dozen visiting in 2011. I am happy to say Before you set out, go to my web site: several stayed a long time and found it an www.doyleguides.com to see if there are any incredible experience. updates or advisories, and let us know of You may well see Mood Indigo at an- things we need to change. chor, owned by Joyce Davis, an American jazz and blues and musician who arrived on a crusing boat and built a lovely residence on the edge of the river. Also, Kit Nascimento, a local businessman and politician who also has a mini resort and restaurant on the river, and has been instrumental in helping visiting yachts. Unlike the , this will be a real

adventure. You need to take more care than Cruising Guide to Guyana you do on the well trodden routes, navigate Essiquibo catfish, Mariana Niehaus

211 Cruising Guide to Guyana PLANNING AND CRUISING

Bartica Stelling, Mariana Niehaus Introduction

uyana is a spectacular country, ish influence became increasingly evident, 83,000G square miles of rain forest, savan- but and in 1814 the colonies of Essequibo, nah and coastline, with less than a million Demerara and Berbice were finally ceded inhabitants. There are so many rivers that to Britain, and in 1831 the three colonies the name Guyana is derived from the Amer- merged to become British Guiana (later indian word meaning Land of Many Waters. Guyana). The area of the Guianas, bounded by the The Policy & Combined Courts, the rivers of the Orinoco, Amazon, Rio Negro legislative and executive bodies created by and the Atlantic Ocean, is believed to have the Dutch, remained in operation under been settled before 900 AD by Warrau Indi- British rule for another century. The terri- ans, and later by the Arawak and Kalinargo tory attained its independence on May 26, tribes. However, there is no evidence from 1966 and became a Republic in 1970. these times of a very advanced civilization. Guyana is the only English-speaking Sir Walter Raleigh’s voyage in 1595 and his country in the South American Amazon subsequent book on the riches of Guyana did Rain Forest. A few people also speak Creole. much to stimulate interest in the area. The Many Amerindians remain in settle- French, the English and the Dutch laid claim ments throughout the territory and apart to the region in the 17th Century, and it was from them, the population is fairly evenly settled in separate areas by the three nations divided between those of African and those ~ the Dutch colonies being located in what of East Indian origin, with a smattering of is now Guyana. From 1781 onwards, Brit- Dutch, English and Chinese.

212 Cruising Guide to Guyana

213 Cruising Guide to Guyana

The Amerindian themselves have several culturally rich settlements, which you can visit to observe their way of life. Many of them are cowboys and put on a magnificent rodeo once a year. Georgetown and many of the agricultur- ally rich coastal lands lie below the level of the sea at high tide. They are protected by miles of earthworks built to keep the sea out. A system of canals and lock gates are used to drain the land, These are opened at low tide and closed against the incoming one. Ecotourism in Guyana is unsurpassed with magnificent waterfalls and wildlife, and anyone visiting here should spend some time in the interior. Accomodations in interior attractions is adequate but sometimes basic. sloth The area designated for yachting is about 40 miles up the mighty Essequibo Riv- er. At this point the water is fresh and clean, and good for swimming, though not very clear as there is always an organic reddish color from the forest. Guyana is one place you should stick to bottled water. Neither the tap nor the river water is recommended for drinking, though if you collect rain you are unlikely to go short. In this region are a couple of little resorts you can use as a base, and main settlement is a small mining town called Bartica. There is plenty to explore right from here, and when you want to go further into the interior, arrangements Bartica market, Mariana Niehaus are easily made. It should be appreciated that at the moment there are no yachting facilities, and the only form of tourism is low-key ecotourism. If you visit, you will still be one of the pio- neer yachts to do so, just as I was some 40 years ago. The government is keen to attract yachting facilities but this will take time to happen. The advantage of this is that, unlike the Eastern Caribbean to the north, where you will be one in thousands, you will be unusual here. People will be happy to get to know you, and you will have the satisfaction of feeling like a All Goods Store, Mariana Niehaus true explorer. If you would like a local contact, email Kit Nascimento at: [email protected].

214 Cruising Information

Shots Before you visit Guyana you should be Unless you are a rain freak, or want to immunized for yellow fever. While malaria is visit the waterfalls at their rowdiest, you will not a problem in the cruising area outlined, probably like it better during the drier times. if you intend to spend time in the rain for- If you are crossing the Atlantic, late October est it might be advisable to bring some anti through November is not a bad time to visit, malarial drugs, then check with the tourist and if you get late it is only the small wet office to see if you need them in the areas season. If you are coming down from the Ca- you plan to visit. ribbean come any time during the summer dry season, much of which coincides with Weather the Caribbean hurricane season. Guyana is hot and steamy with a dra- Bartica's weather (the cruising area) matic rainy season of "spaghetti rain" for days is also affected by local convection, which on end, where nothing quite gets dry. But can bring sudden heavy showers along with in the dry seasons the climate is pleasant; gusty winds, very occasionally up to 38 knots, warm and humid, with the humidity being 20 mps. When wind is against the tide this somewhat offset by the breeze. On the river you can always cool off by jumping over the side. The river is surrounded by dense rain- forest and sometimes in the afternoon you can almost feel the greenery transpire. Guyana is an area free of hurricanes or storms offshore and usually has moderate to light trade winds (4-16 knots, 2-8 mps); there is little in the weather to worry the navigator at sea. In the area around Bartica, which we produces short steep seas that are of danger cover in this guide, the daytime average tem- to someone navigating by open boat. It can perature is 30.7°C and the nighttime 23.7°C. even make yacht navigation impossible due The main seasonal variation is rainfall, and to reduced visibility. You can always anchor the northward movement of the inter tropi- till it passes. cal convergence zone (ITCZ), which brings Hazards of the river, apart from shoals, heavy rains from mid April to the end of include floating logs and debris, most of July. During the southwards migration of the which can be avoided with a good lookout. ITCZ is a lesser wet season usually from mid The Essequibo is tidal (8 to 10 feet tidal Cruising Guide to Guyana November to late January.

215 Cruising Guide to Guyana range) with the outflow of the river affecting lent opportunities to meet locals. We, as a the tidal stream. At spring tides the flood is community, will also be judged by how each 1.8 knots, and the ebb 3.3 knots, at neaps of us behaves and unfortunately, as the worst the flood is 1 knot and the ebb two knots. do, so shall all be judged. So please be honest, Up by Bartica the tidal affect is less and the courteous and obey all local laws. average discharge 0.8-1.4 knots. You will need to know what the tide is Medical doing. It is best to get tidal tables, but if not, In Bartica if you need a doctor, visit Dr. observations works well. We give a link to a Lucius Williams, or Dr Sagala: 455-2299 / tide calculator on www.doyleguides.com. 652-1212 / 653-3241 Bartica has a govern- Check the local radio stations for ment hospital on First Avenue; (592) 455- weather on 98.1 FM and 560AM, or check 3084. Goverment hosptials are free but basic. www.guyanaclimate.org. In general you will be happier visiting one of the private establishment in Georgetown. Customs and Immigration St. Joseph’s Mercy Hospital, 130-132 Check our regulations section in Anchor- Parade Street, (592) 227-2072/5, sjmh@ ages in Guyana. solutions2000.net. Medical Arts Center, 265 Thomas Visas Street, (592) 225-7402 All visitors need a passport. That is Georgetown Medical Center, 258-259, sufficient for all citizens of commonwealth Thomas and Middle Streets, (592) 226- countries, the USA, Belgium, Denmark, 7210-9, [email protected] Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Ireland, Dentists; Dr. S. Bera, Carmaichael Italy, Japan Korea, Luxembourg, the Nether- Street, (592) 226-0194 lands, Norway, Portugal, and Spain,. Others Dr. Jennifer Bulkan, St. Joseph’s Mercy need a visa and should contact a Guyana Hospital, (592) 225-5068 Consulate. Dr. Teodora Madekurozwa, 343 Middle Pets Street, South , Georgetown, Contact the office of tourism in advance (592) 226-6301 to find out what you need to do. Firearms Dangers If you have firearms on board you must When swimming, watch out for cur- declare them and the Customs officers may rents, if swimming from the boat keep a hold them for you until your departure line attached. Fishing Electric eels are apparently common Non-commercial trolling and hand- near rocky areas, and sting rays gather on lining for fish, for your own consumption shallow beaches till early morning. Watch are OK. where you put your feet! Sandflies are active Anchoring regulations at dawn and dusk. There are surprisingly few Use your common sense and stay out mosquitoes or biting bugs on the river, but in of busy channels. Apart from the shipping case you hit a bad spot, it is probably smart to channels there are no restricted areas. Our have a way of screening your boat at night. anchorages are all outside these. If you are traveling into the interior, ask your guides about dangers you are likely Local Etiquette to meet. Guyana is informal, but off the boat and Guyana does not seem to have any re- away from beach resorts, women should stick ally special security problems at this time, to long sleeves, men should wear long pants especially around Bartica, but it is worth in the evening. If you wear a bikini to town checking with people as to the current you will not only attract undue attention, status and what it is advisable and inadvis- you will be giving us all a bad name. able to do. Early visitors to a country have excel-

216 Cruising Guide to Guyana

217 Cruising Guide to Guyana EXPLORING GUYANA Guyana is a big country ~ 83,000 and dense mangrove forests are a third square miles of mainly wild nature. Eighty major habitat. As you would expect in such percent of this is dense and lush tropical a large continental environment the wild rain forest bisected by many rivers, which life is magnificent; jaguars, eagles, giant are often the gateway into the interior. It otters, anteaters, sloths, along with an has a haunting and wondrous beauty on a imaginably large variety of birds. giant scale that seems to grip people when The ecotourist industry is just defined they really get to know it. I have often got enough to guide you in the right direction and there are quite a few lodges that cater to visitors, none of them very big, and most fairly basic. Exploring Guyana’s interior should be a priority, and is an excellent reason to visit. So good in fact, that should you not make it by boat, it is worth considering flying down, an easy hop by plane from Trinidad. Here are a few highlights;

Kaieteur Falls These magnificent waterfalls are 741ft tall, making them the highest sheer drop in the world, and they certainly offer the most photogenic waterfall views that can be taken from the ground. The first European to discover these falls (which had been long known by the Amerindians) was Geologist Barrington Browne in 1890. Legend has it that they were named after an old Patamonas Chief, Kaie who sacrificed himself to the Great Spirit Makanaima, by paddling his canoe over the falls to bring peace to his tribe. Falls in Patamona is translated to “Teur” hence the name Kaieteur. the feeling from those who have spent years The Kaieteur National Park established in Guyana, that nowhere else would ever in 1929, is home to rare and endangered quite match up. In part it is because this species of flora and fauna, including Cock big land mass supports a relatively small of the Rock, the White Collared and population (less than a million). There is Scissor Tailed Swifts, which nest behind a small ecotourist industry, but few enough the falls. Giant Tank Bromeliads are found people visit that you will still feel especially here, inside of which the endangered privileged when you find yourself there. and very rare golden frog lives. The Park Apart from rainforest, extensive is 242 square miles, with great hiking savannah lands are found in the Rupununi opportunities. grassland savannahs that occupy Guyana’s While Kaieteur Falls are Guyana’s western border with Brazil; a smaller most dramatic, there also many other falls savannah area lies along the banks of the along the many rivers. Berbice River. The coastal areas of beach

218 Kaieteur Falls and scarlet macaw, Mariana Niehaus photos Mariana Niehaus Cruising Guide to Guyana

219 Cruising Guide to Guyana

gives visitors a new view on the forest and allows wildlife to be relatively free from human intrusion.

Shell Beach Shell beach is located in the Northwest region of Guyana and is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean and the Mangrove forest between the mouths of the Pomeroon and the Waini Rivers. The beach is a 100-mile long stretch along Guyana’s coastline. It IWOKRAMA International Centre is the only beach in Guyana where four of This center was established in 1996, the world’s eight species of marine turtles set aside to be used as a demonstration area for sustainable development in ecotourism projects, forest protection and preservation and community empowerment projects. Four large endangered species found in the IWOKRAMA Forest are the Black Caiman (Melanosuchus Niger), the Arapaima (Arapaima Gigas), the Giant Otter (Pteronura brasiliensis) and the Giant River Turtle (Podocnemis expansa). A Canopy Walkway opened in 2003 and is located a few miles away from the field station. The canopy walk is a series of suspension bridges and decks of up to 30 meters in height. It come to nest and they are the leatherback, the Green, the Hawksbill, and the Olive Ridley. Nesting season is March to April. There are two main areas along the stretch of the Beach where settlements have developed; these are Almond and Gwennie beaches. The Beach is home to quite an array of other faunal species, including the Scarlet Ibis, jaguars, Squirrel monkeys, tapirs and red deer. A number of lodges and accommodations are available in Guyana’s various habitats. Two of these are near Bartica and we will consider them in our detailed look at this area. Others are ranged around the rainforest and into the savannah lands. Some of the main ones include: Rockview Lodge, Karanambu Ranch, Mapari Wilderness Camp, Dadawana Ranch and Emerald Tower. Guyana is more than wild nature ~ there is life as it is lived now, which will certainly be very different from wherever you come from. Guyana has a lovely old, mainly wooden capital, Georgetown,

220 with its characteristic architecture, and you can visit Amerindian settlements as well as several historical sites.

Forts These forts are remnants of the period when Guyana was ruled by the Dutch. Kyk Over Al, which meant “See over all”, was originally built of wood and later replaced by a brick structure which also served as an administrative office. Fort Kyk Over Al was built on an island at a junction where a stronghold to protect themselves against the three rivers meet; the Essequibo, rebellious slaves. It is located 16km from Mazaruni and Cuyuni during the 1600s the mouth of the Essequibo River. On the since it provided them with a commanding island, there are a few structures remaining, view of the three rivers. remnants of its rich historical past, still Fort Zeelandia or Fort Island was intact. Fort Island is an outpost for the constructed to protect the Dutch West Coastguard, and a midswhipman and petty Indian traders from their rivals; the English officers are always on watch. Good to know and the French, who frequented the eastern if you need help on the river coast in search of the spoils of war as well as Cruising Guide to Guyana

221 Cruising Guide to Guyana

Sailing to Guyana From Trinidad the wind angle is much The current flows northwest from Guy- worse and you are likely to have to motor- ana to the Caribbean at up to two knots. This sail. Most flotillas took about 5 days motor- is the primary consideration when planning sailing from Scotland Bay. We give the route your cruise. taken by these flotillas, though clearly you If you are crossing the Atlantic, the easi- would break the journey nicely by visiting est way to visit Guyana is after your crossing Tobago and setting out from there. and before you head up to the Caribbean. You can get lucky when the wind is This has a lot of advantages, you can go visit north of east. It has been done in two-and the Cap Verde Islands (2300 miles), and if half-days, and taken as long as five days. The you plot your route south of the hurricane sail back is very easy. belt you can leave in early October, well A chart of the East Coast of Trinidad ahead of the rush, and giving you time to is required so you can avoid Emerald Shoals visit Guyana in a relatively dry period. and Darien Rock, both about longitude In the old days engineless sailing, schoo- 60°38W, or 20 miles east of Trinidad. ners regularly plied between Barbados and Darien Rock is about 10°31 N, Emerald Guyana, so you may well be able to do this Shoals about 10°45 N. Trinidad’s east coast under sail, though the southbound route will also has many gas/oil rigs. be slower because of the northerly current. The first step is to power up the coast I would guess that they would have headed to GTR01 (10°56’ 60°41’W). Then head well east of Guyana if they could, then al- to GTR02 (10°45’ 60°25’W), about 125°T. tered course when they were close to the From here you fall off to 144°T to GTR03, right latitude. (8°00’ 58°30’W). Mud flats, 17 feet deep,

222 start about 18 NM offshore. Keep offshore to should pass by a waypoint further south, like avoid unmarked piles, sunken pontoons and GSL02 (7°00’ 57°50’W) before heading to other obstructions till you come to GSL01 GUES01. (7°15’ 58°10’W). We deal with the route from here on in Those coming from the east or south our next section Anchorages in Guyana. ANCHORAGES IN GUYANA

Baganara, Mariana Niehaus

Navigation and information By Simon Wall in 2006, Updated by Peter Ward and and Joyce Davis 2011, contributed to by Kit Nascimento, edited by Chris Doyle

Introduction miles we did to reach Bartica, and we were The area designated for yachting is continually amazed at the new experiences about 40 miles up the Essequibo River. It is we encountered during our 3 months there.” centered around the small but thriving town There is no big problem to heading up of Bartica, which stands at the junction of the river, the channel is deep enough that the Essequibo and the Mazaruni rivers. small freighters visit Bartica. However, there This is an attractive area with two small are no buoys, lights, markers, or lighthouses, river resorts in operation and at least two You are on your own. others that are currently closed. In addition The Caribbean coastline is so low (be- several Guyanese have built holiday homes low sea level for much of the region around on the river banks. Georgetown-Parika) that you wonder where You will still be an adventurer here. In the land has gone! The seawalls only become 2011, only about a dozen yachts visited. As apparent when you are in spitting distance. Roy and Wendy, on S/Y Zingara wrote on There are dozens of what they call Noonsite:” “piles”, which are long thick poles sunk “Guyana proved to be everything it into the seabed, between which are strung promised. Once we entered the River Mouth semi-permanent fishnets. These piles can we immediately felt like adventurers, on un- be as far as ten to 15 miles offshore, and are charted waters. The very unique lifestyle of un-marked, unlit and hard to see in darkness. Cruising Guide to Guyana Guyana unfolded with every mile of the 40 It is essential to stand off at least 20

223 Cruising Guide to Guyana

Tidal Time Differences I have used Parika, Essequibo as the standard port. If you are using Tide tables based in Gergetown then Parika is +0020 (MHW) and +0103 (MLW). Tidal time differences from Parika:

place (MHW) (MLW) GUES02* -0034 -0110 Parika 0000 0000 Fort Island +0015 +0042 Stampa Island +0105 +0152 Bartica +0207 +0255

*Our waypoint, also Bluejacket Beacon miles if you arrive in darkness. The Atlantic the Essequibo for a year. is so shallow out there, you can anchor in The bar at the mouth of the river is nine anything but heavy seas. Try and time your to ten foot deep and can shift. So it pays to arrival to pick up an early morning rising enter on a rising tide. The same is true as tide going in past Parika at the entrance you go up the river. to the Essequibo, and aim for an overnight at Roed-en-Rust, a few miles past Parika, Water Supply before picking up the next rising tide for You will be in the rainforest, so there the up-river run. will be some rain. If you have a rain collec- You will see the pilings dotted around tion system oin your boat you should not as you approach Parika, and also many want for water. Otherwise use bottled water small fishing smacks with outboard engines. for drinking. Shrimping trawlers are well lit and easy to There is no point in taking on water in see with their outrigger booms and nets, Guyana as you would not want to drink it but the small smacks often put out several and you can just as well use river water. Take hundred metres of net with only a little flag the water from up river beyond Bartica where marking the end. it is cleanest. Before putting it in your tanks The water at the mouth of the river is run it through a 25-micron filter. You need muddy and not overly attractive, though to come equipped to do this (A cheap house the scenery is interesting. As you approach “string filter” might also work). Once in the Bartica this changes and the water becomes tank treat it with 2 drops of chlorine to a clearer and cleaner and pleasant for swim- gallon of water and leave it for ten minutes ming, thought it always has reddish color before using. from the surrounding rainforest. This water will be fine for all purposes In addition to our sketch charts you other than drinking. At a push you could should have: Essequibo River to Mamarikuru probably drink it after adding the chlorine, Island (BA 2782) and Mamarikuru Island to but better to drink bottled water or collected Bartica (BA 2783). For arrival, it would be rain water. good to have Approaches to Demerara and A desalinization plant will work won- Essequibo Rivers (BA527). ders with the river water, which it will The Essequibo is very much affected by convert much easier than saltwater. the tides, you can expect a 10 foot differ- Regulations ence between low and high tide at springs. Www.doyleguides.com, navigation adviso- Clearance for yachts is in Bartica. See ries page, gives a link to Xtide prediction Bartica for details software, where you can download the tidal You can let the coastguard know you predictions at Parika towards the mouth of have reached Guyana and are on your way 224 up the river. Call Commander Porter (592) www.guyana-tourism.com/yachting.html. 600-6510. They keep a post on the river at Keep in mind that the GPS is not perfect and Fort island. neither are we. So the navigator should use You will find oddicials very friendly. these with caution and his eyes wide open. They open 0800 - 1630. Immigration, on the The perfect time to arrive at the outer main street next to the police station will waypoint GUES01 is on a rising tide in check you in for three months and happily during daylight hours, the earlier the bet- extend this later. Customs are across from ter, so you have plenty of daylight and an the police station on the avenue, the fee to incoming tide to take you the 21 miles to clear in is G$2,500 or about $12.50 USD. a good anchorage off Roeden Rust Marina. Same to clear out. At a push you can anchor anywhere off the Guyana coast in 20 - 40 feet of water. It will Navigational hazards be mighty rolly, but the sea conditions are Seine nets of up to ¼ mile in length nearly always moderate. may be encountered in the mouth of the GUES01 is half mile south of the outer Essequibo. These Seine nets are usually Essequibo Pile (Fl 6 S). From here head for marked by a flag on a pole or a small fishing GUES02. This keeps you in the ship channel boat at one end. The floats are small and between Bluejacket and Leguan banks. can only be seen from a short distance away. The water, which is only about 9 Smaller Seine nets may be encountered feet over the bar, deepens as you head for anywhere in the river. GUES03. From GUES3 you head into the A large numbers of fishing piles will be river at GUY01. GUY01 is Parika Stelling, also be encountered; they are easily visible the main landing at the head of the river. and are located on the edges of the Channels. This is a busy settlement, with a big market Occasional debris floats down the river, al- and good bus links to the Georgetown, the though I have not had any major problems capital. You want to be fairly close to he with this, a sharp look out should be kept. shore here to avoid shoals further out in the This is not a suitable area for night river. You now follow long the shore (about navigation. 50-100 meters from the bank) past GUE02 to GUE03. Close to GUY03 you come to Navigational Marks Roeden Rust Marina. With the exception of Rattlesnake Rock Beacon, none is in place. Anchoring It is possible to anchor pretty much any- where in the river, the holding is excellent in sand or mud. Due to the current, a stern an- chor is recommended to prevent swinging. Navigation GPS waypoints are the easiest way to navigate the river. The waypoints used in this section were originally supplied by the Sailing Yacht “Wild Orchid” in 2005. They were amended by Simon Wall on Avalon St. Maarten in 2006 who also took the sound- ings. Extra waypoints between Bartica and Hurakabra were added by Peter Ward in 2011. The waypoints are opposite the sketch charts on the following pages. They can also be Cruising Guide to Guyana downloaded from www.doyleguides.com, and

225 Cruising Guide to Guyana

Go in good light and use your eyes as Roeden Rust well as the waypoints while navigating. From Roeden Rust you will be heading Marina for Fort Island, which you will leave on your I suggest you anchor off Roeden Rust starboard side. There is dock on Fort Island Marina for the night before heading up river. and some ruins. You can anchor off the dock Anchor off quite far (around 300 metres) for a visit. to avoid the shallows and fast taxi and ferry services. Strictly speaking you should not put ashore here as you are still not checked in, Fort Island but if you have to, nobody seems to mind. Fort Island is the original capital You will get a warm welcome from Cleo da of British Guiana. First Court of Policy Silva, the owner who will help where pos- (Parliament) building now serves as school sible, but don’t expect to find diesel, ice, house and church. Ruins of the Fort are still spares or expertise on hand. intact and reasonably maintained. You can There is not much here, but it is on land by dingy and walk around Island which an hourly bus route to Parika, where you has a small population. Ask the local school will find shops, a market, and restaurants. teacher to arrange a guided tour. Apart from A Taxi could be arranged with a phone call making arrangements with your guide, no from the Marina fees are involved. Going upriver Continuing upriver The trip up river should be timed to ar- From Fort Island you edge over close to rive at Bartica at high water, (note the tidal the south end of Baboon island to avoid the time difference at Bartica). I have found shoals farther offshore. You continue along that leaving Roeden Rust at low water the east side of the river staying about a hun- works well. dred yards off. This should avoid the shoals close to shore and those further out.

226 Waypoints from Wild Orchid 2005, with updates and changes by Simon Wall 2006 Magnetic variation taken as 14° west The courses going downriver are naturally one line out from those going upriver Name Course Course Remarks Location Upriver Downriver °Mag °Mag

GSL01 202 350 Outer WPT to start lining up for the entrance 7° 15.00’ N to the Essequibo River (13.6 NM to GUE01) 58° 10.00’W

GSL02 291 111 Alternate outer WPT for southern approach (14 7° 00.00’ N NM to GUE01) 57° 50.00’W

GUES01 ½ mile south of Essequibo Pile (Fl.6s). The ‘final 7° 01.40’ N 238 22 approach’ waypoint for the river (6.3 NM to 58° 11.40’ W GUE02)

GUES02 In Ship Channel between Bluejackets & Leguan 6° 57.00’ N 252 58 Banks (4.7 NM to GUE03) 58° 16.00’ W

GUES03 In Ship Channel west of Middle Ground (6.0 NM 6° 54.50’ N 258 72 to GUY01) 58° 20.00’ W

GUYS01 78 Parika Stelling (Stelling = ‘port’ or ‘harbour’) 6° 51.90’ N 249 (0.7 NM to GUYS02) 58° 25.50’ W

Cruising Guide to Guyana Hurakabra

227 Cruising Guide to Guyana

228 Waypoints from Wild Orchid 2005, with updates and changes by Simon Wall 2006 continued, GUY01 repeated Name Course Course Remarks Location Upriver Downriver °Mag °Mag

GUYS01 244 78 Parika Stelling (Stelling = ‘port’ or ‘harbour’). (0.7 6° 51.90’ N (249) NM to GUYS02.) 58° 25.50’ W

GUYS02 241 68 Two Brothers wharf. (2.1 NM to GUYS03.) 6° 51.45’ N 58° 26.13’ W

GUYS03 235 61 Follow narrow deep channel along the east shore 6° 50.00’ N of the river, 50 -100 metres offshore. (3.5 NM to 58° 27.70’ W GUYS04.)

GUYS04 233 55 Keep North end of Fort Island close to the west, 6° 47.35’ N (50-100 metres). (1.9 NM to GUYS05.) 58° 30.02’ W

On your starboard beam are the Lau Lau to shore. You now follow the curve of the Islands. There is an anchorage here where river till you get to Shanklands Resort at we show on our chart. Be careful of the shoal GUYS14. You need to take care in the vicin- that extends south of the western island. The ity of Sail Rock and the Shanklands shore. Lau Lau islands are heavily forested, swampy This is a cross river junction ~ up river and not very suitable for exploration, but to Bartica or across river to Hurakabra River it makes a convenient overnight stopping Resort. There are huge submerged rocks on place on the way up or down the river. the Shanklands-Hurakabra approach so take From GUY08 to GUY09 you are follow- care. Or you may prefer the Bartica-sawmill- ing the east side of the river. From here to Hurakabra approach given later. GUY10 you come out more to the center of the river so you can pass on the west side of Stampa Island, leaving it to port. There is a fair anchorage just south of Stampa island. Stampa Island Stampa Island used to have small sawmill and houses. Now it is deserted and overgrown with a collapsing dock. You could land by dinghy, but there is little to see. A Good beach with private home is on the east bank opposite the Island and readily accessible by dingy. Continuing upriver Stay on the track between waypoints GUYS10 and 11 to avoid the Stampa and Cruising Guide to Guyana Pigeon Island shoals as well as those close

229 Cruising Guide to Guyana

230 Waypoints from Wild Orchid 2005, with updates and changes by Simon Wall 2006 continued Name Course Course Remarks Location Upriver Downriver °Mag °Mag

GUYS05 217 54 Pass between Fort Island and smaller islands to the 6° 45.85’ N east. (3.1 NM to GUYS06.) 58° 31.26’ W

GUYS06 222 37 Stay between islands, close to coast at the south 6° 43.00’ N end of Baboon Island (50-100 metres). (2.8 NM to 58° 32.40’ W GUYS07.)

GUYS07 211 42 Close to eastern shore again for deep water 6° 40.50’ N and avoid shallows further out. (1.9 NM to 58° 33.75’ W GUYS07.)

GUYS08 200 31 Continue to follow the eastern shore line about 100 6° 38.70’ N metres off. (2.5 NM to GUYS09.) 58° 34.30’ W

river with its own anchorage. Shanklands For $6 a night they offer garbage dis- posal, Use of the beach facilities such as Resort beach chairs, hammocks, toilets, showers Shanklands resort is currently closed. kayaking, peddle boat, swimming, using Anchorage here is possible. grounds for walks, any indoor/outdoor game- badminton/table tennis/volley ball/ fresbee/billiards, a supply of rainwater, use Hurakabra of library/maps, use of telephone to make limited local land line calls and one hour on River Resort the internet facilities-1 hour. They also offer Hurakabra River Resort is other- laundry, water taxi to Bartica, and courrier. wise known as Kit ad Gem’s place. Kit For $100US they will send a guide down Nascimento has worked for years to attract river to piot you up. yachts to Guyana, and led some flotillas from They are very knowledgeable about the Trinidad to here, and been actively involved area, and arrange all kinds of tours and have in the production of this book. been extremely helpful to visiting yachts. Kit is a former Government Minister and Public Relations Consultant, he and Navigation his wife Gem have their resort just a short The approach to Hurakabra starts at distance from Bartica. It is right on the edge the Shanklands anchorage at waypoint of the river with a good dinghy dock, and has GUYS14. Head midway between Sail a bar and snack bar as well as a barbecue for Rock and the visible beacon off the north larger parties. Overnight accommodation is end of Dahli Island till you get to GUK02. available in a Guest Villa and Cottage; there From GUK02 you are heading towards the is already an excellent floating dinghy dock. conspicuous red roofed house at Wolga till Kit and Gem also rent a rustic 2-bedroom you get to GUK03. Between GUK02 and cabin on a private beach just 5 minutes down GUK03 there is a large sandbank to the Cruising Guide to Guyana north. From GUK03 head for GUK04 and

231 Cruising Guide to Guyana

232 Waypoints from Wild Orchid 2005, with updates and changes by Simon Wall 2006 continued Name Course Course Remarks Location Upriver Downriver °Mag °Mag

GUYS09 216 20 Midway between No. 19 channel mark and the 6° 36.25’ N eastern shore at Lanaballi. (2.2 NM to GUYS10.) 58° 34.65’ W

GUYS10 179 36 ¼ way across the river from east bank to clear 6° 34.20’ N shallows; No. 21 buoy off to the west. (1.7 NM 58° 35.50’ W to GUYS11.)

GUYS11 175 359 Close to eastern shore, northern end of deep 6° 32.59’ N water channel. (1.5 NM to GUYS12.) 58° 35.05’ W

GUYS12 195 355 Close to eastern shore in deep water chan- 6° 31.22’ N nel, beware shallows to the west. (0.8 NM to 58° 34.57’ W GUYS13.)

GUYS13 223 15 Close to eastern shore at south end of deep 6° 30.42’ N water channel, beware shallows to the west. (1.1 58° 34.58’ W NM to GUYS14.)

GUYS14 192 43 Midway between east shore and Sail Rock Fl 6° 29.37’ N Q.R. Use caution from here to GUYS 15. You 58° 35.12’ W have now reached Shanklands Resort. (1.5 NM to GUYS15.) Cruising Guide to Guyana

233 Cruising Guide to Guyana

From Shanklands to Hurakabra. This is deep enough at low water, but passes close to dangerous rocks. See also waypoints from Bartica to Hurakabra, oppo- site Bartica chart, which is high tide only but over mud.

GUK01 6° 29.145’ N 58° 35.392’ W

GUK02 6° 28.470’ N 58° 35.920’ W

GUK03 6° 28.229’ N 58° 36.730’ W

GUK04 6° 27.423’ N 58° 37.158’ W

GUYK05 6° 27.131’ N 58° 37.454’ W 234 Name Course Course Remarks Location Upriver Downriver °Mag °Mag Midway between east shore and Sail Rock GUYS14 188 43 Fl Q.R. Use caution from here to GUYS 15. 6° 29.37’ N The channel is narrow and requires eyeball 58° 35.12’ W navigation. It is not a straight line. (1.5 NM to GUYS15.)

GUYS15 214 12 ½ mile south of Makauria Island & between 6° 27.90’ N Makauria Creek and Green buoy to west. (1.3 58° 35.08’ W NM to GUYS16.) Onto Bartica on the next page. keep approximately a hundred feet off 3 white poles. Bartica From GUYK04 head approximately 50 Bartica, a small mining town sits at the feet off the end of Kitt’s dock, between the confluence of the Essequibo and Mazaruni dock and the small white can marking a Rivers. It has a population of about 15,000, submerged rock. (We call this GUK05). and sits in Region 7 of Guyana’s 10 admin- The anchorage area extends over 0.25 istrative regions. of a mile southwest from GUYK06. Stay “Bartica” is an Amerindian word mean- between 50 and 150 feet from shore; there ing” Red Earth” which aptly describes the are shoals to the east. soil of the area and many other upriver regions. It started as an Anglican Mission- ary Settlement in 1842. and later came to Upriver to Bartica be the gathering place for “Porknockers”, To continue upriver you return to people who work in the bush mining gold waypoint GUY14 by Shanklands. and diamonds. Porknockers celebrate The run from GUY14 to 15 is not a Porknockers Day in August, join in if you straight line you will have to eyeball your are here. The region is primarily known for way past the various shoals north of Dahli its mining operations and mountain ranges Island and off Shanklands resort. On your like Mount Roraima …2,810 meters high, left is Two Brothers Island. Eddie Grant the standing at the point where Guyana, Brazil, musician, has turned this into a fancy river and Venezuela meet. home. On the eastern bank in this area is Most of Bartica’s points of interest are the defence force marine outpost. within walking distance of each other. The Macuria Creek by waypoint GUY15 is area is well served with taxies and mini deep and you can anchor here to explore. buses. These taxies and buses compete with You follow the river bank down to GUY16, trucks , dray carts, bikes, cows, horses, and and then swing out to the center of the river many smiling villagers. As Joyce Davis says: to GUYS17. Here you will be heading down “A visit to Bartica is worth the while; if to GUYS18. Calf Island will be on your star- nothing more than exchanging a few words board hand, and take care in the Rattlesnake with the beautiful people who welcome the passage between Rattlesnake rock and other exchange.” rocks and shoals to your east. Avenues run parallel to the Essequibo From here it is a straight shot down to River, with First Avenue being the closest Bartica at GUY19. to the water’s edge. Streets run parallel to the Mazaruni River, also starting from the water’s edge. Cruising Guide to Guyana

235 Cruising Guide to Guyana

236 Waypoints from Wild Orchid 2005, with updates and changes by Simon Wall 2006 continued Name Course Course Remarks Location Upriver Downriver °Mag °Mag

GUYS14 192 43 Midway between east shore and Sail Rock 6° 29.37’ N Fl Q.R. Use caution from here to GUYS 15. 58° 35.12’ W The channel is narrow and requires eyeball navigation. It is not a straight line. (1.5 NM to GUYS15.)

GUYS15 214 12 ½ mile south of Makauria Island & between 6° 27.90’ N Makauria Creek and Green buoy to west. (1.3 58° 35.08’ W NM to GUYS16.)

GUYS16 264 34 Sandy cliffs on nearby eastern shore, church 6° 26.66’ N to the south, shallows to the west (1.1 NM to 58° 35.50’ W GUYS17.)

GUYS17 212 84 At south west end of Rattlesnake Passage, mid- 6° 26.30’ N way between east shore & islands. (0.6 NM to 58° 36.50’ W GUYS18.)

GUYS18 205 32 Close to No. 31 buoy and Rattlesnake Rock, 6° 25.70’ N north of junction of Essequibo & Mazaruni. (1.7 58° 36.70’ W NM to GUYS19.)

GUYS19 201 26 Off Bartica. Fuel available at two docks with 6° 24.07’ N piles, need fender board; 1-7 metres depth. (0.2 58° 37.00’ W NM to GUYS20.)

GUYS20 South of Bartica. Lines you up to to to GUY22. 6° 23.78’ N 168 21 This waypoint was orginally wrong and so taken 58° 37.03’ W from the chart. Use with caution. (0.6 to next)

GUYS21 195 348 Midway between Lamun Island and the western 6° 23.25’ N shore. (0.5 NM to GUYS22.) 58° 36.75’ W

GUYS22 177 15 About 50 metres north of a rock with 2-3 trees. 6° 22.73’ N (2.67 NM to GUYS23.) 58° 36.75’ W

GUYS23 130 357 Across the river from the Baganara Resort. (0.2 6° 20.20’ N NM to GUYS24.) 58° 35.92’

GUYS24 at anchor 310 Good anchorage in 5-7 metres off the resort. 6° 20.10’ N Do not anchor off the end of the runway 58° 35.70’ W Cruising Guide to Guyana

237 Cruising Guide to Guyana

238 Waypoints from Bartica to Hurakabra Lodge. Peter Ward waypoints

Name Course Course Remarks Location Downriver Upriver °Mag °Mag This route is for high water only, when it should give you a minimum of 7.5 feet of wa- GUH1 ter. But take it easy, especially the first time. 6° 24.91’N 341 GUH1 is your starting point about half a mile 58° 36.81’W downriver from Bartica. 0.28 NM to GUH2

GUH2 This waypoint takes you south and west so 6° 25.14’N 306 161 you clear the shoals south of Bartica 0.92 NM 58° 36.97’W to GUH3

GUH3 Opposite the sawmill on Kaow I. It is shoal a 6° 25 46’N 34 126 long way out from the sawmill. Do not go any 58° 37 84’W closer than this. 0.25 NM to GUH4

GUH4 Kaow Island. You will follow the island south 6° 25 70’N 38 214 to GUH5, about 100 meters off. 0.64 NM to 58° 37 76’W GUH5

GUH5 From this point off Kaow Island, you cut over 6° 26 28’N 339 218 towards west bank of the river at GUH6. 0.42 58° 37 52W NM.

GUH6 This is close to Joyce’s House - a fancy house 6° 26 62N 47 159 on the river with a shingle roof and maybe a 58° 37 77W yacht. 0.6 NM to GUYK05

GUYK05 From here to Hurakabra it is deep. Anchor 6° 27.131’ N 227 slightly upstream of Hurakabra; do not go far 58° 37.454’ W beyond the northern limit of the property as there are some rocks past there. You will see some optional mooring buoys

Navigation the market position. Watch for them at low When approaching Bartica, you will tide and mark them well. Anchor in good see on your starboard side a large shed-like holding in around six metres. building with wharf and probably some small When going ashore, look to the right freighters or a ferry. This is the stelling (ferry of the power station for Kool Breezes, a terminal). Do not anchor anywhere near this riverside bar and taxi terminal. Cruisers are as ships need turning space and it is very busy welcome to tie their dinghies up at the small with water taxis. Proceed farther up, past floating pontoon to the left of the bar; try to the power station (diesel smoke and noise get around the back or side of the pontoon apparent) and up to the municipal market, to avoid wash from passing traffic or incon- a very big building with green roof and small siderate parkers. wharf. Anchor at least 200 meters offshore If you do not have a dinghy engine, in this area, allowing plenty of space for the rowing to and from your yacht is going to be an exercise (in more ways than one).

huge ore barges to pass in the channel be- Cruising Guide to Guyana tween you and the market. There are some The current is strong, and you have to work rocks about 400 meters out and forward of your way against the current close inshore 239 Cruising Guide to Guyana getting well upcurrent of your destination E-Networks, Cable and Wireless and before cutting across. If you get into trouble, Wimax should be available by the time you wave and shout — a taxi or workboat is sure get to Bartica. to come to your rescue. It’s that or head for Bartica has several internet shops. I & the shore again. Anchor about 600 feet of D Cyber Cafe is owned by Inti Gobin, who the government dock (Stelling) this will also does computer repairs The Brazilian keep you clear of river traffic. one on the corner of First Avenue and Sixth The Cool Breeze Bar is happy to let you Street, is professionally run, and costs about tie your dinghy to their dock, or Langley’s US $1.00 for 15 minutes. Boat House will let you pull your dinghy The post office is around the corner close uyp to his boat house. from the police station on Third Street and When overnighting at Bartica, make about ten metres from the Bartica Stelling. sure you are well-lit at night. The ore barges come through day and night and cannot stop Services or turn easily. Be seen, be safe! Diesel and petrol are available in Bartica at Texaco and petrol (only) at Guyoil; the- Regulations filling stations are adjacent to each other on Customs and Immigration are both open First Avenue, and conveniently situatedon 0800-1630. Clear immigration at the police the water’s edge. There is also a refuelling station on First Avenue upon arrival (open jetty, only accessible by dinghy unless you Monday to Friday). When you are done have a zero draft, in front of the Bartica there, Customs is 40 metres away around the beach, which is situated at the confluence of corner. No charge at Immigration, a small the Mazaruni and Essequibo rivers. charge (G$2500, US$12.50) at Customs per A couple of places will get your cook- yacht. Immigration will normally stamp you ing gas cylinders filled. European and some in for three-months when you check in at types of US bottles seem to be okay, but Bartica. (This can be extended) South African and Brazilian types cannot When checking out, first go to Im- be refilled. It is best to come with all your migration (police station in Bartica) who cylinders completely full. Dino and Jewel will stamp your passports out and then ac- Enterprise is run by Dino, an avid cricket fan, company you to Customs, where you will who also arranges gas refills. Ryan’s General be required to pay a checking out fee of Store, the hardware store on First Avenue G$2,500 per yacht (US$12.50). also deal with LPG/propane cooking gas When visiting officials, dress in long refills. All refilling is done in Georgetown, trousers, shoes and shirt for men and non- and it takes several days before your bottles threatening dress for women (no spaghetti are returned. straps, boob tubes, halter-necks or shorts For Perkins engine parts or Yamaha allowed inside the official buildings). Ensure outboard parts and batteries, contact M.F. that you have your usual boat documents Yassin, at 28 First Avenue. You can also ask and previous port clearance with you. You about repairs. will find theyr are cryuier friendly and wel- Balram and Sons on First Street charges coming. and conditions batteries. Rajesh’s Upholstery shop on Fourth Communication Street (across from Inty’s Internet Cafe) You cawn buy mobile phones and sims is the place to go for new cushion covers, at the entrance to the Mall. Sims are Digicel dinghy covers, awnings or whatever. and GTT. For Digicel go to First Avenue, Hardware and general dealer stores in directly across from the entrance to Kool sell stuff like hoses, sandpaper and varnish. Breezes. M.I Yassin, 20, First Street is a good one and You can only receive on board wifi when sells Stanley Tools. anchored off the Baganara Resort, and only There are no haul-out facilities for when they are switched on. (In Georgetown yachts in the country. most hotels have free wifi.) 240 If your computer needs fixing it may best to take to Georgetown to Trevor Meredith ar Computers & Controls, 62 Hadfield Street, Georgetown, 623-8510. Shopping Bartica has a good local market as well as supermarkets and hardware stores. Scotia Bank, open weekdays 0800- 1400 is situated on Second Avenue (round the corner from the flea-market alley on Fifth Street) and you will find a 24/7/365 ATM here that accepts Visa, Master, Maestro and Cirrus, where you zarella cheese, and popcorn you pop the old can withdraw up to G$30,000 (US$145) fashion way. pertransaction If you wish to draw larger Knights Pharmacy on Third Avenue amounts, you can do so at one of the tellers will take care of your prescriptions and inside. Branches are available in Parika and Sherry in the Arcade off Main Street has Georgetown. OTC things. Citizens Bank, open weekdays 0800- For case price for beer, rum and vodka, 1130 and 1300-1600 is on First Avenue. coke, and Pinehill Orange Juice, check You will need some cash as debit/credit Banks D’agular’s Industries & Holdings next cards only work in a few shops and hotels in to Citzens bank on First Avenue Georgetown. Bartica has an excellent local market Restaurants with an extensive selection of fresh veg- Bartcia has Bars and restaurants, night etables and groceries. The steamer from clubs, and travel agents. Parika, arrives at the stelling (dock), every Restaurants include Rosemary on Sec- Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday by 3pm ond Avenue, which serves good Creole food, with fresh produce. M & J Supermarket on buffet style. Main Street has many American, English Upper Level on Main Street offers home and Canadian products. Pinkie, the owner cooking, chicken & chips, or fish & chip brings in her fresh plunked chickens daily; with local vegetables. but you have to go early, they go fast. Weifung on Main Street has a good When you are tired of fish and chicken, selection of Chinese cuisine and is a popular try Freddie’s Meat Market on First Avenue or place to have a beer. Rasul Meat and Produce Store on the corner Chip Chip on Sixth Avenue is run of Third Street and Third Avenue for an by Brazilians and offers typical Brazilian excellent selection of fresh tenderloin beef, skewered barbecue with a selection of pork, minced beef, and more. chicken, and beef along with a big salad. Jardines and Ryan and Rubin are both When you want you hair done visit on Main Street next to the Market. They Faders on First Avenue. mostly do bulk provisioning for the interior. If you need somewhere to stay try the Take a walk through, you never know what Platinum Hotel on Main Street, riverside. you may find. Fresh produce is also available. They have hot and cold showers, cable TV, Atkinson’s Trading, 92 First Avenue and air conditioned rooms. (accessible by road or beach) is owned by Tracey, William and John Atkinson and Ashore they sell Brazilian Goods and Groceries Bartica, each year comes alive dur-

and are known for their Brazilian Calabresa ing the Easter weekend when fun-loving Cruising Guide to Guyana Sausage, Marata Coffee, farm eggs, moz- Guyanese come from all over Guyana, to

241 Cruising Guide to Guyana

242 participate in the Bartica Regatta. At this getting to Georgetown. Should you wish to event one can enjoy a series of entertain- overnight, Joyce recommends the Sleepin ments, and holiday related activities. The International at 24 Brickdam, Stabroek highlight is the speed boat race. Georgetown, (592)227-3446, a home- away- Karrau Village is an Amerindian Vil- from- home for many visitors. lage, at the entrance into the interior by While in Georgetown you can enjoy the road. You can talk to the beloved “Big Roy”, sites of colonial architecture, and amazing and he can make arrangements for you to go wooded building structures. Visit the Castel- into the interior on a Bedford truck, visit the lani House. The building was completed in camps, and maybe see some dredge mining. 1882, subsequently it became the residence The Mountain Resort Bar; is a recreational of the late Prime Minister, Linden Forbes spot for playing pool, watching soaps or Sampson Burnham. In 1992 it was converted sports, and having a chat with the villagers, into Guyana’s first National Art Gallery. and miners going into the interior. A daily For those special food items of butter, sour Buffet breakfast, and lunch is served, under cream, bacon, Leg of Lamb, purple onions, the direction of Roy’s daughter Peal. and many more gourmet treats. Nigel’s Su- Goshen ,and Agatash Amerindian Vil- permarket on Robb & Light Street. Bonny”s lages also welcome cruisers. Supermarket on Church Street, and Survival Along the Essequibo River in the Supermarket in Newton, or Campbellville. Bartica area, you will find expatriates of You can top-up your DVD’s, and CD’s America, Germany, and England who have at Giftland, a great Department Store on fallen in love with the Essequibo, settled, Water Street. and built lovely river homes Balkarran and Selene of “D” Factor Interior Guest House (592) 455 2544, (592) Baganara 455-0061 does some great tours with his Delta Speedboat Service, He really knows Island Resort the river with its waterfalls and rapids, Follow our waypoints up to Baganara. and he offers guided boat tours, fishing, Be careful around waypoint 22. You are just and overnight camping. His tours are very north of a rock with trees, but you are also popular with repeat clients from England, about 100 yards west off Simons Rock, which Canada, and the American Embassy gives is dangerous and submerged at high water. him reference. Being above the river confluence the water You can also get on the river ferries to is at its cleanest and calmest. go upriver to visit other settlements. Anchor off Baganara anywhere except Bartica is at the confluence of the in line with the airstrip. The anchorage is Essequibo and Mazaruni Rivers. The Maza- fabulous, with great views and good hold- runi river is also navigable and has interest- ing. One pleasant place to be about 80 to ing anchorages at Buck Island and Kyk Over 100 metres off shore, slightly past the huge Al Island. You will need the Admiralty chart bamboo grove, giving some privacy to both to explore these. boat and lodge. This is well within range of Cruisers Roy and Wendy say on Moon- the wifi transmitter, which is sometimes on. site: “Some nights must also be spent at Baganara is a beautifully landscaped is- Grass Islands, where hundreds of Parrots go land resort. It is very pretty with a huge room every night to roost, a sight you will be un- that is open to the river and garden. This likely to see anywhere else in the World, not contains the bar, restaurant, and lounge. to mention the sounds... Tracey and James It is a touch more formal than Hurakabra. have a Bar close by if you are in need of a They have a well stocked bar, snacks are cool beer or something to eat.” The Grass available at anytime and facilities include: Islands are east of Bartica close to the east Beach, Volleyball, Table Tennis, Pool,

river bank. Kayaking, and other water sports. The staff Cruising Guide to Guyana See transport in Guyana at a glance for are wonderfully helpful and welcoming and

243 Cruising Guide to Guyana

they are keen to develop yachting. lives in a house on the river bank. Her Their main visitors are the ecotourists sloop, Mood Indigo, is often anchored off and locals who come for weekends. If you the house. It is pretty much where we have want some time ashore they have pleasant the waypoint GUH6, a little upriver from rooms. They can also arrange tours. Hurakabra. Not too many new faces come Baganara also has an airstrip, so this can up the river, so Joyce is often delighted to be your gateway back to the Georgetown or meet people on yachts who are adventurous on into the interior. They provide excellent enough to make it up the river. If you have security. Apart from Kit’s place, this is the a phone you could give her a call and sound only other place I would leave my boat unat- her out (592) 680-2152 If you don’t have a tended for extended periods of time. phone you could try dropping by. When you You can ask them to have Evergreen want to visit, just anchor anywhere close by Travel, or longtime staffer Lincoln, arrange and go ashore, watching out for the little trip to Kaieteur Falls. monsters, Duke and Ella — cute little dogs with an attitude until they get to know you. When you get to Hurakabra, anchor From bartica slightly upstream of it; do not go far beyond the northern limit of the property as there to Hurakabra are some rocks past there. They do have Peter Ward did the waypoints from moorings for rent or you can anchor close Bartica to Hurakabra. There is one bank by with good holding. between Kaow Island and Joyce’s house that is only about 4 foot deep at low tide, so you should only attempt this towards high tide, preferably a little before high tide, so you have a bit to play with. Joyce Davis, a jazz and blues musician, Baganara 244 DIRECTORY SECTION Guyana Directory - Services

Guyana Technical Yacht Transport Miscellaneous Emergency, Services Delta Chartered Guyana Tourism Official Deven and Mohabir, Speed Boat Authority (Indira Customs Bartica, (592) 455-2783/ Service, 455-2544/ Anandjit) at (592) (592) 455-3205 2742, shoe repairs, 0061/ 621-0469 231-6627/ 223- Immigration Bartica, sail repairs, joinery, Bartica 6351/2. Email: (592) 455-2222 leather craft. Provisioning ianandjit @guyana- tourism.com Customs Boathouse, Mohamed Ayube Atkinson’s Trading, Georgetown: (592) Khan (Bull), (592) 455-0180 Merlyn Nathan, (592) 455-2761, Regional Adminis- 225-4848/ 225- . (592) mechanic & boat Banks DIH Ltd trator, Region Craft 9062 455-2319 service Department, (592) Harbour Master’s wholesale drinks Orin Williams, (592) 455-2209 Office: (592) 226- Freddie’s Meat 455-2408/ 613- Balkarran and Sele, 9083; 226-7842; , (592) 455- 2193, mechanic Market Guest House ‘D’ 227-2407 2579 623-4101 Engine and Out- Factor & Interior Police, Parika: (592) Rasul Meat and Pro- board Parts: M.F. tours, (592) 455- 260-4480 duce Store, (592) Yassin, (592) 0061 664-0245 Police, Bartica: (592) 455-2793 455-2222 Bartica Guyana shopping Knights Pharmacy: Tours Bank of Nova Scotia, (592) 455-3060 Evergreen Tours (592) 455-2618 Communications & Baganara I &D Cyber Cafe and Resort, (592) 455- Citizens Bank, (592) PC Repairs, (592) 2934/614-1478/ 455-3014 455-2586 see also 624-2693/ 226- Chan Kamachan, Hurakabra Resort 0605, evergreen. (592) 455–2759, General Yacht adventures@ gold & Silver Jewel- Services webworksgy.com ler, Bartica Balram & Sons Va- Hurakabra Resort Takur Persaud & riety Store, (592) (Kit and Gem Sons, (592) 455- 455-2958 also pro- Nascimento), (592) 2497, hardware vides battery charg- 226-0240/ 225- material propane & ing, re-aciding, 3557/ 624-8694, welding gas, etc air & vulcanizing 640-4497 or 455- General Hardware:, services, Balram 3200, M. I. Yassin (592) Willford kitnasc@ gol.net. 455-2329 Roeden Rust Marina, gy, [email protected]. (592) 624-9139/ gy, gemmadhoo@ bartica Hotels 617-2430/ 663- gmail.com, bar and Restaurants 2607, Cleo Da restarant, tours - B D. Balkarran, , Silva Kaieteur & Guest House Falls, Esseuibo & (592) 455-2544/ Dino & Jewel Demerara River. 0061/ 621-0469 Enterprise, , (592)455-2937 Wilderness Ex- New Modern Hotel Restaurant & Propane plorers, (592) 227-7698, info@ Nightclub, (592) Hurakabra Resort winderness-explor- 455-2301/0052 (Kit and Gem ers .com Nascimento), See Platinum Inn Res- , (592) Tours taurant 455-0081 Moorings, internet, bar, restaurant, din-

ghy dock, rooms. Cruising Guide to Guyana

245