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www.vogue.in YOUR SHORTEST P R I YA NK A WOR KOU T CHOPRA YET! Actor, Beauty, 15 minutes to Rebel, Rock star a killer body RNI.NO.:MAHENG  

ISSN  FABULOUSTime to update FASHION your summer wardrobe VIEW Linda Evangelista Marlene Dietrich in the 1930 fi lm in , Morocco January 1996, photographed by David Sims

STYLE SMOKE SIGNALS Introduced by Yves streets worldwide; yet, for formal at- Saint Laurent in 1966, tire, women were conservatively clad Le Smoking was the in gowns or cocktail dresses. Le Smok- ing was, therefore, perceived as direc- jacket that changed tional, an empowering sartorial sym- how women dressed bol of the women’s liberation era because it offered a seductive take on and what designers an ensemble that was once strictly as- created. BRONWYN sociated with men. COSGRAVE traces the By 1967, Le Smoking—which de- rives its name from the French term many decades and for tuxedo—was selling like hot cakes defi ning moments of an at Rive Gauche, the Paris boutique Saint Laurent opened to sell afforda- enduring piece ble variations of his . Until his retirement in 2002, the suit remained a permanent part of Saint During Paris fashion week in October, who had resisted creating an homage Laurent’s Rive Gauche and couture passed on to editors to the legendary Saint Laurent two- collections, as well as those his col- dropping by ’s Rue Cambon at- piece this S/S ’13. leagues and successors have pro- elier a drawing he had created. It fea- From Céline to and at Saint duced. Like Tom Ford (who opened tured a vibrant red line crossing Laurent, Le Smoking-inspired tuxedos his debut Saint Laurent show with through a woman smoking a cigarette. covered the runways in the French Le Smoking-style suits in 2000), Hedi The female fi gure Lagerfeld illustrated fashion capital. Le Smoking seems Slimane, the new artistic director of fl aunted Le Smoking—the tuxedo for right for now because it offers a cool, Saint Laurent Paris, started the fi rst women Yves Saint Laurent pioneered low-key, comfortable mode of evening show he staged this spring with slim- Din 1966. Lagerfeld had also posted a dress in this new era of fashion mini- line variations of the classic. The sign inside the Chanel studio stating malism, just as its relaxed androgy- move highlighted the signifi cance of ‘No Smoking Here’—his message was nous chic struck a chord when Yves this ensemble, which is considered a tongue-in-cheek way of highlighting Saint Laurent fi rst introduced it. Back one of the greatest fashion designs

that he was one of few Paris designers then, the miniskirt dominated city ever produced. KIM WESTON ARNOLD SIMS; JB VILLAREAL; GETTY IMAGES; DAVID

160 VOGUE INDIA MARCH  www.vogue.in  A for YSL’s Over 30 years autumn/winter after Saint Laurent 1966-67 couture produced the fi rst collection look based on Le Smoking—Bermuda shorts and a sheer silk blouse—his atelier continued to experiment with the look, producing a AUGUST  sharp tuxedo-inspired Marlene Dietrich (far left) coat dress. All the sporting a man’s tuxedo while, designers from as a cabaret singer in the New York to Tokyo 1930 romantic drama produced their own Bianca and Mick interpretations of Morocco, prompted Jagger in Saint- the fi rst Le Smoking, Tropez on their the suit, from Hanae which Yves Saint Laurent wedding day, 1971 Mori’s Le Smoking presented with his winter On Fire trouser 1966 couture collection. suit—captured Helmut Another source of AUGUST  by David Bailey Lang in British Vogue’s inspiration, he claimed, Marrying rocker Mick Jagger in Saint- A/W was his friend, artist Niki Tropez on New Year’s Day in 1971, Bianca 2000-01 November 1967 de Saint-Phalle, who Jagger paired a Le Smoking-inspired jacket edition—to Helmut often wore men’s suits with a long skirt to create a legendary white Lang’s homage (left) with high heels. wedding ensemble. She joined a clique which appeared at of high-profi le women who sealed their the turn of the new fashion-icon status by fl aunting Le Smoking, millennium. including New York socialite Nan Kempner.

 OCTOBER As the Saint Laurent   fashion house was Raf Simons, creative sold to a series of director of Christian conglomerates, Dior, and Hedi Slimane including Sanofi and may be portrayed by Gucci, Le Smoking the media as rivals in remained an integral the run-up to their part of the collections ready-to-wear debuts, conceived by a new but both open their generation of designers S/S 2013 shows with Le Smoking. helming the brand. Dior’s are interpreted Alber Elbaz presented a as Simons’ “tiny tease spare black Le Smoking Roland Balmain thrown YSL’s way”, S/S 2013 as the fi nale number in Mouret and appear strikingly YSL S/S the debut October 1999 S/S 2013 chic because of their 2001 collection he described sharp cuts and the as “pure Saint Laurent.” ribbon-neck chokers Saint A year later, Tom Ford’s models fl aunt with Laurent strong-shouldered Le them. Slimane’s hippy- S/S 2013 Smoking (left) emerged chic take appears with as the must-have wide-brim hats and from his fi rst show. characterises a new, Style.com’s Armand sexy spirit his touch has Limnander praised lent to the fabled house Ford’s interpretation as of Saint Laurent. The masterly, stating: “Throw future of Le Smoking an oversize coat over it, Dior seems safe in his hands. and the night is yours.” S/S 2013 HOW TO WEAR LE SMOKING, ON

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