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nd Sou Bou in thward SPA I N Legend has it that the Sultan would look upon his harem from this “balcony to that courtyard below. He would throw an apple down to the concubine he wanted to spend the night with. Makes you wonder what happened if the concubines all ran away from the apple! ” Southbound to sky was overcast and drizzling. Still, been on a Segway, you have to try that didn’t stop two intrepid tourists it! The sensitive gyroscope on the the Albayzin from trudging through the medieval device means that even someone According to our guide at the streets. We peered at the old Spanish like me (with my higher-than-average , a grand palace with houses, hugged the looming alley fall risk) can ride safely and have fun. Islamic roots located in the south of walls when cars zoomed by and Our guide, a bubbly Italian señorita , the legend was one among watched the locals expertly navigate with bright pink hair, took us up the many chronicled by American author the uneven and slippery pavement, steep slopes of the Sacromonte to Washington Irving (who wrote The all while avoiding the innumerous the gypsy quarter. This is where the Legend of Sleepy Hollow and who first piles of dog excrement along the way. still live, having built described New York City as “Gotham”, Yes, despite being a UNESCO World their homes out of caves. From the which was famously adopted later on Heritage Site, dogs are, for some top of the Sacromonte, we took in by DC comics). reason, allowed to use any part of the a sprawling view of the lush valley cobbled walkways as their toilets. extending towards the Sierra Nevada My husband and I had driven south And there were many dogs. mountain range, a fertile paradise from Madrid to the city of , compared to the parched, desert-like located in the Spanish province of We arrived at Saint Nicholas Church, plains further away. . We’d passed through atop the Albayzin, just as the locals arid, rocky terrain as we neared the were dropping off their kids at school, The Alhambra stood to our left, the Sierra Nevada mountain range. The before most tourists had risen from Albayzin borough to our right, and landscape attested to the one-liner bed. There, we caught a magnificent the valley ran behind us. As she from My Fair Lady: that it really panoramic view of the Alhambra wheeled about on her Segway, our doesn't rain in Spain. Up to that point, perched on its hilltop eagle’s nest. spritely guide told us this tale: In 1492, the weather we experienced had the last king of the Nasrid dynasty been near freezing yet sunny, with a was exiled by King Ferdinand of the humidity of what felt like 0%. Sacromonte exploration Castilians. Boabdil, as he was known, on wheels paused at a mountain pass and We stayed in the Albayzin, a medieval Later, after the Spanish sun had turned to cast one final look at the neighbourhood of narrow crooked burned off the gloomy clouds, we kingdom he was surrendering to the alleys paved with cobblestone, all of set out on a two-hour Segway Christians. Upon seeing the mighty which begged to be explored. The tour of the Sacromonte, another Alhambra, a legacy of his ancestors, morning after our arrival, we awoke neighbourhood with a rich history. he wept, and the place was thereafter to unusual British-like weather — the For those of you who have never named Suspiro del Moro, the Pass of

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the Moor’s Sigh. Even more famous Mary of Toledo and the Synagogue of PROFILE was what his mother said to him then: El Transito. “Do not weep like a woman for what you could not defend as a man.” Nestled in the heart of Toledo, the Cathedral is a grand example of Ouch. Tough love. Gothic and Renaissance art, with high and thick columns, beautiful Our day in Granada rounded off with murals and exquisite ceiling paintings. a tour of the Alhambra itself. This In contrast, the Synagogue appeared fortress holds numerous gardens almost understated in size and TEXT AND PHOTOS BY and palaces that preserve Islamic art grandeur. However, this centuries-old and architecture unique to the Nasrid building located in the old Jewish dynasty. It was on this three-hour Quarter, is a good reminder that Dr Tina tan walking tour that we heard about the while the Muslims and Christians Sultan’s apple and his concubines, dominated most of Spanish history, Deputy Editor saw remarkable examples of the the Sephardi were present and intricate marble patterns carved made their contributions as well. Tina went to Spain to into the palace walls and caught attend a conference. a bird’s eye view of the entire city Along the way, she at sunset. Our guide at the palace True blue Spanish fare found time to savour was a local with a penchant for Now, a trip to Spain isn’t complete Spanish food and plants. He could name almost every without mentioning the local food. enjoyed a week-long tree and flower growing within the I’ve concluded that the Spaniards, respite from the palace, and expressed his gratitude like Singaporeans, know how to eat a intense Singapore for Washington Irving’s Tales of the variety of foods, prepared in a myriad heat. She learned a Alhambra. This book piqued European of ways. Paella, akin to Spanish few Spanish words and American interest in the seafood fried rice, is a famous item along the way, but Alhambra in the 19th century. Without every visitor should have. Ceviche, a promptly forgot most that, our guide declared, the Alhambra raw fish dish cured with lemon juice, them due to the lack would have fallen into ruin and not is a tasty treat for those who enjoy of Spaniards back become the historical monument that sashimi. Jamón (cured ham) and at home, except the it is today. various Spanish sausages are a must- have for meat lovers. And let’s not ones relating to food. forget the wine. At two to four euros Those are worth Ancient architecture a glass, one might argue that food in remembering. of Toledo Spain tastes so good because it can easily be washed down with sufficient Legend The next stop on our Spanish tour quantities of alcohol. took us to the ancient Roman city 1. View of the Albayzin taken of Toledo, another UNESCO World from the Alhambra Washington Irving wrote this of the 2. Artwork on the ceiling Heritage Site known for its steel, as Alhambra: “How unworthy is my every souvenir shop selling swords of the Gothic cathedral scribbling of the place.” Suffice to in Toledo and armour in the city declared. say, our trip to Granada and Toledo 3. Seafood paella The historical part of the city was showed us that Spain is a country dish with a jug of (almost very much like Granada’s Albayzin rich in history and culture. This empty) Sangria; Sangria is in appearance, sans dog fertiliser — article alone would not do justice an alcoholic beverage which I was grateful for. It made for to the beauty and historicity of the and its name can less treacherous hiking and exploring. sites we visited. Therefore, best to only be used in Spain and Portugal see for yourself. And for the more Our short time in Toledo allowed us 4. Ceviche, a raw fish dish adventurous ones, see it on 5. Proof that I went on to see two of the city’s attractions: a Segway. the Gothic Primate Cathedral of Saint a Segway

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