Since 1970 FREE

v Vol.41 No.21 Nov 19-Dec 2, 2010 ’s Premier Free English Language Magazine www.weekenderjapan.com

Notes on Executive Profile tasting Pommery’s Ken Moroi An interview Bill Hersey’s with Parties People Fumihiko Kamo Places The good life in Florence and Rome

Take our yearly Readers’ Survey & win two tickets to Vietnam

Table of Contents 6 Executive Profiles: Ken Moroi 24 Bill Hersey’s Parties, People & Places The Diplomat’s Exhibition and events for 7 The View From Here — Adieu Dame Joan Saudi Arabia, Singapore and Libya 8 Arts and Entertainment Boris, Bon Jovi and Le Baron; The Aussie 28 La Vita Buon: Where to stay in Ball, Weekender Footy and a ‘Reality Lab’; Florence and Rome Owen Schaefer reviews ‘Age of Aids’ 30 Real estate & classifieds 12 Tokyo Tables — Antica Osteria and Les Vinum 32 Back in the Day — American football 16 Notes on — An interview with in Tokyo sommelier Fumihiko Kamo, plus wine events around town in November and December

Volume 41 Number 21

PUBLISHER Ray Pedersen CONTRIBUTORS Yonca Guler, Norman Breakes, Ian de Stains OBE EDITOR Donald Eubank ASSISTANT EDITOR Stephen Parker EST. Corky Alexander and Susan Scully, 1970 MEDIA MANAGER Tomas Castro Weekender Magazine Office MEDIA CONSULTANTS Mary Rudow, Pia von Waldau 5th floor, Regency Shinsaka Building RESEARCHER Rene Angelo Pascua 8-5-8 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo 107-0052 (03) 6846-5615 / (03) 6846-5616 Fax CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Owen Schaefer (Arts), Bill Hersey [email protected] (Society), Elisabeth Lambert (Health & Eco), Darrell Nelson (Sustainable Business)

Opinions expressed by Weekender contributors are not necessarily www.weekenderjapan.com those of the publisher. B u s i n e s s

Executives in Japan

EdwardKen Moroi Suzuki Chief Executive Officer of Vranken-Pommery Monopole

alf-French, half-Japanese, Ken Moroi was born in Paris and received a Masters in Japanese Language and International HTrade at Paris IX university. Moroi moved to Japan in 2004 to become a brand manager for Vranken-Pommery Monopole, the second largest house in terms of sales and the distributor in Japan of the grand from Pommery, Heidsieck & Co Monopole, Demoiselle, Diamant and Charles Lafittes. Now the CEO of Vranken Japan, a newly established Japanese subsidiary, Moroi is responsible for all those lines, as well as Listel and Port Rozes.

Tell us a little about the in Japan. scenarios — it is so integrated into people’s lifestyles! Certainly this Champagne was introduced to Japan a very long time ago — some of is because the metropolitan population (both among consumers and our archives show traces of our Champagne distribution here dating food/retail professionals) has really integrated Western food and back to 1934! Although it was introduced a long time ago, a real increase cultural habits into their lives thanks to their travel experiences or in the size of the Champagne market in Japan only took place in the their appetite for foreign cultures. This is true of the big metropolises; beginning of the 21st century. It became more widely consumed mostly in other regions and the countryside of Japan, Champagne consumption due to restaurants serving it by the glass, and wine shops giving it a is still very limited. sizable place on their shelves. Weddings, Christmas, birthdays and But one big difference with the rest of the world would be the home parties are now commonly celebrated with Champagne, but much higher consumption of prestige cuvees and other we could go further: Champagne itself has so many varieties that it Champagnes here. should not be only considered for making toasts. Food pairing and What have been your greatest successes working in Japan? Setting up the subsidiary for our group and hiring a local team that is solid and ambitious. Becoming the top-15 selling Champagne brand ‘One big difference (between in the year of launching the company was another one. And greater Japan and) the rest of the successes are yet to come! What obstacles you have encountered ? Time! The market is so complex and is divided into so many world would be the much intermediaries that setting up effective distribution takes time. As is true for any other foreign companies, overcoming local competition is higher consumption of always tough as well. prestige cuvees and other What has been the most surprising thing that you have learned working in Japan? The number of meetings that can be necessary in order to get a final vintage champagnes here’ approval. the introduction of Champagne consumption to more traditional and How has your perception of the country changed over your time here? domestic Japanese celebrations are the next step for the development From a personal point of view, it went from being “the country where my of the Champagne market. father was born,” to “my second home!” More seriously, in my opinion, Japan might have lost some of its past economic glory, but it now offers How does the Japanese consumption of Champagne compare to that of many interesting lifestyle approaches, such as “eco-citizenship” or even other countries? the quest for well-being. I find this it deeply interesting. I would say that Japan is a big market but still has many possibilities to expand. Compared to much younger markets, such as China or What part of French culture would you like to introduce to Japan that Southeast Asian countries, from the consumer point of view, knowledge isn’t well known in Japan? of Champagne and the frequency of consumption is much higher. In More than culture, I would say, an attitude: Believe in your own taste, not big towns, Champagne is available in so many different places and only trends.

6 WEEKENDER O p i n i o n

THE VIEW FROM HERE by Ian de Stains OBE

ALLAN_WARREN PHOTO

La Stupenda Bows Out!

long with millions of other opera lovers around the world, others might — to be much of an actress, but musically speaking I was deeply saddened to learn of the recent death of Dame she inhabited a role in a way few others have been able to. By the A Joan Sutherland, who was 83 years old. Sutherland had retired end of her career, Sutherland had more than 50 leading roles in her some years ago and lived together with her husband and collaborator repertoire in addition to oratorio and the recital platform. Richard Bonynge in a magnificent retreat in Switzerland. When she first sang Gaetano Donizetti’s “Lucia” at London’s Not for Dame Joan the endless farewell concerts and the Covent Garden, she set out her stall for instant stardom. At the end “definitely last appearances” that so many other great singers have of the “Mad Scene,” the audience rewarded her performance of that foisted on a long-suffering public; she retired with the same grace and most challenging of arias with a 28-minute standing ovation. Before dignity that had marked her long and spectacular career, well before long, Sutherland was performing leading roles in major opera houses her voice — Luciano Pavarotti famously defined it as “The Voice” — began around the world, soon earning the sobriquet “La Stupenda” from an to fail her, and, thus her hoards of devoted fans. Her extraordinary enthusiastic Venetian writer. vocal technique still thrills and astonishes in the countless recordings What is almost astonishing as the accolades she collected that line the shelves of discerning music lovers’ houses the world over. throughout her career is the fact that none of it appeared to go to her Sutherland was a most unlikely star in many respects. Born and head. A titled star who could command virtually anything she wanted, raised in Australia, she grew up listening to her mezzo-soprano mother she remained at heart the Ozzie girl who’d almost reluctantly left signing around their modest home in Sydney. When she achieved local Sydney and whose feet were always firmly on the ground. recognition, the young soprano was encouraged to go to London to I have written before in this column about my own first encounter further her studies. But it was not until she met — and later married — with Dame Sutherland and how she and Bonynge by example taught Richard Bonynge that she began her extraordinary transformation. me a huge lesson in graciousness. For that and for their music, I shall Bonynge encouraged her to work on the remarkable range he remain ever grateful. detected in her vocal capacity. It was an ugly duckling transformation; soon, from the large boned, unprepossessing Joan there emerged Ian de Stains is the Executive Director of the British Chamber of Commerce in Japan. The views expressed in this column are strictly his a coloratura of dazzling virtuosity whose command of the stage was own and are not necessarily endorsed by or shared by the Chamber. as sure as that of her score. She would never have claimed — as

WEEKENDER 7 Arts & Entertainment > Tokyo Happenings

‘Reality Lab’ at 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT Footy Japan Knockout Cup Ask Japanese designers and architects why the country’s aesthetics The Footy Japan Knockout Cup, now in it’s seventh year, features the have become so popular in their fields over the last decade, and 30 teams from the TML, Tokyo’s number one International league, who they’ll give you a simple answer: the Internet. Before people didn’t will battle it out in a knockout format. Two-time champions Hibernian know what was going on here unless they came — now they have FC (pictured above in green), who won for the second time in a row last access to anything that is reported on. It’s a bitter twist then that the year, are looking to match the league record of the Swiss Kickers, who country’s renowned skill in design and production may be hitting a captured the first three FJ cups. After the first round (in which the 2009 wall just now. That’s what Issey Miyake believes, reporting that Japan’s finalists get a bye to round two), the winning teams go into the cup production centers “are now facing an unprecedented situation with competition — which is fully sponsored by The Weekender this year — talent being drained away and factories closing down.” The famous and the losers into the plate. For a full listing of the first round draw, fashion desinger addresses this issue in his capacity as the exhibition please check page 23. director of “Reality Lab” at 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT. The title is from Miyake’s observation that the job of a designer is a continual search to From November at various www.footyjapancompetitions.com turn ideas into reality, and the designers he’s selected are tasked with grounds around Tokyo and (03) 3770-0288 showing their approach to resuscitating this spirit in Japan. Yokohama

Till Dec. 26, 11am-8 pm Nearest stations: Roppongi & Nogizaka Admission: ¥1,000 (Oedo, Hibiya & Chiyoda lines)

(03) 3475-2121 / www.2121designsight.jp

Australia Day Ball Early Bird Discount Boris with Ian Astbury from The Cult After sell-out events at the Autumn BBQ and Melbourne Cup, the The experimental rock band Boris is well known for its mix of drone Australian Society Tokyo is presenting its premiere event, The metal, noise rock, ambient sounds, sludge metal, stoner rock and Australia Day Ball, at the ANA InterContinental Hotel Tokyo, on crust punk — which sounds ridiculous until you find out that over Saturday Jan. 29, 2011, 7 pm–2 am. With the theme of “Reef Magic,” their 14 year career the three piece released 17 albums. When Boris you can expect a spectacular black-tie event of tropical elegance and was first starting out back in 1996, Ian Astbury was just shutting style highlighting the very best Australia has to offer: a sumptuous down his best known musical vehicle, hard-rocking, psychedelic U.K. four-course dinner, free flowing drinks, a great band, plus an band The Cult. The Cult had hit its pinnacle with the album “Love” in auction and raffle of prizes in support of the society’s designated 1985. Recently Astbury has brought songs from that album back in charity, Fukudenkai, a children’s orphanage in Tokyo. Buy tickets performances and collaborations that he’s done with Boris as BXI, as online at www.australiasocietytokyo.com or send an email to ball@ well as with a reformed Cult, which has been playing “Love” in full on australiasocietytokyo.com before Nov. 30 for an Early Bird discount: tour. Astbury is coming alone to Japan for a show with Boris at (the ¥24,000 for members, ¥26,000 for nonmembers and a table for 10 for terribly named) WWW Shibuya on Nov. 28, so if we’re lucky, we’ll be ¥230,000 (available for members and nonmembers alike). hearing BXI giving The Cult’s classic songs a thunderous work over.

Jan. 29, 2011, 7 am-2 am Nearest station: Roppongi-itchome Nov. 28, 6 pm open / 7 pm start Nearest station: Shibuya (JR, Keio and Early Bird discount available (Namboku Line) Tickets: ¥ 3,800 advance / Subway lines) before Nov. 30 ¥4,300 door www.australiasocietytokyo.com (03) 5458-7676 / http://www-shibuya.jp 8 WEEKENDER // // Arts & Entertainment

2010 GETTY IMAGES Bon Jovi at the Tokyo Dome More than 130 million sold albums and there is still no end in sight. Jon Bon Jovi got his first record deal in 1982 after winning a radio contest with the song “Runaway.” A year later, the New Jersey native founded his eponymous group with David Bryan, Richie Sambora and Tico Torres, and started supporting acts such as The Scorpions, Kiss and Scandal. For almost three decades now, Bon Jovi have toured the world, and in 2005 became one of only six artists/groups, including immortals Michael Jackson and The Beatles, to receive the Diamond Award, which is only given to those who have sold more than 100 million albums. Their latest album, “The circle” from 2009, went to number one on the US Billboard charts. Join in for one wild night at the Tokyo Dome with these stadium-filling steel cowboys.

Nov. 30 Nearest station: Suidobashi and 5:30 pm open/ 7 pm start Korakuen (Chuo, Sobu, Marunouchi, Tickets: ¥8,000-¥ 11,000 Mita, Nanboku, Oedo lines) (VIP seats ¥50,000) www.tokyo-dome.co.jp

MasalaIndian Cuisine Chaie

RUFUS PHOTO

Le Baron de Paris 4th Anniversary Tokyo’s premier salon/”fashion-forward” club “Le Baron de Paris” celebrates its fourth birthday with a series of parties starting next Thursday. The three-day bash opens with Changes Tokyo Bang! and the dress code “Ruby” — interpret that as you will. Changes MASQUERADE BANG! is on Friday with the dynamic burlesque dancer and all “round” fabulous performer Cherry Typhoon. Miss Typhoon is not only a former member of the burlesque troupe Murasaki Babydoll, she is also an award-winner at the Miss Exotic world contest. Last is Changes Rock Star Bang! with The Shining Twins from New York, so squeeze into your slinkiest outfit and head over to Le Baron de Paris Saturday to let your inner Rock Star out to party like you know what. Open Hours 11am-10pm • Delivery Hours 11.30am-10pm Nov. 25-27, 10 pm-late Nearest station: Omotesando (Chiyoda, Hanzamon and Ginza lines) 7-5-33 Akasaka Minato Ku, Tokyo, 107-0052 www.lebaron.jp Tel: 03-5573-4617 www.masalachaie.com For more events listings, visit // weekenderjapan.com/tokyohappenings WEEKENDER 9 S u r v e y

Weekender 2010 Readers’ Survey 8. Where are you from? 18. How much “disposable income” do you spend every month? ______Every year The Weekender does [ ] ¥10,000-¥40,000 a readers’ survey to find out who 9. How old are you? [ ] ¥50,000-¥100,000 you are and what you want out of a [ ] 12-18 [ ] 18-25 [ ] 26-35 [ ] 36-45 [ ] ¥100,000-¥200,000 Tokyo publication. We appreciate [ ] 46-55 [ ] 56-65 [ ] Over 65 [ ] ¥200,000-¥300,000 your loyalty and your taking the time to answer our questions, so 10. Are you... [ ] More than ¥300,000 we are offering a bunch of great [ ] Single 19. What kinds of luxury items will you prizes to a few lucky respondents. [ ] Married without children spend big money on? (Select appropriate We aim to make The Weekender [ ] Married with children answers.) the kind of publication that you want to read regularly by offering 11. Do you live in a [ ] Cars the kind of content and commercial [ ] Furnished Apartment [ ] Holidays offers that you need to enjoy a lively [ ] Unfurnished Apartment [ ] Watches city like ours. Any and all insights [ ] House [ ] Furniture you have will help us do our jobs [ ] Guesthouse [ ] Fashion items, jewelry and clothes better! You can also enter online at www.weekenderjapan.com 12. What is your housing situation? [ ] Artworks [ ] I pay the rent for my apartment/house [ ] Education/personal improvement [ ] My company pays the rent for my 1. How often do you read The Weekender? [ ] Others (Please specify______) apartment/house [ ] Every issue [ ] My company gives me a housing [ ] Once a month 20. How many times a month do you do the

allowance for my apartment/house 2010 Reader [ ] Irregularly following? [ ] I own my apartment/house 0 1 2 4 8+ [ ] Never Eat out [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] 13. How long do you plan to stay in Japan? 2. On average, how many people read your Go to the movies [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] Less than 1 year copy of Weekender? [ ] 1-2 years Travel within Japan [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] Just me [ ] 2-5 years Exercise/go to the gym [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] One or two others [ ] 5-10 years Go to Opera/classical concerts [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] More than two others [ ] Over 10 years Go to rock/Pop/jazz concerts [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] 3. How often do you visit the Weekender [ ] Not Sure Go to a museum [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] website each month? 14. What is your position? Go shopping [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] Never [ ] CEO/CFO/other C-level Executive [ ] 1-5 times Attend a sporting event [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] Corporate Employee [ ] 5-10 times Go to a bar/club [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] Professional (accountant/lawyer, etc.) [ ] more than 10 times Go hiking / outdoor activity [ ] Teacher/Trainer [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] Rent DVDs [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] 4. Why do you pick up The Weekender? [ ] Service Sector Employee Survey (select all appropriate answers) [ ] Business Owner Take photos [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] Habit -- I have been reading it forever [ ] Self-employed/Freelancer Garden [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] Student (Major______) [ ] To pass the time in cafes/bars Interior design/decorating my home [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] Unemployed [ ] The events listings to see what is on Enjoy spa treatments/visit onsen [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] For the features articles and writing [ ] Homemaker Take classes about Japanese culture [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] Bill Hersey’s Parties, Peoples & Places [ ] Other (Please specify______) [ ] For the family section Sports (Please Specify______) [ ] Boredom -- just because it’s there 15. What is the monthly income in your Others (Please Specify______) [ ] Other Please specify______household? A selection of readers will win [ ] Less than ¥250,000 5. What kind of stories are you more or less these prizes for participating: [ ] ¥250,000 - ¥500,000 interestedSame in reading in The Weekender? More Less [ ] ¥500,000-¥1 million Two tickets to Vietnam on Vietnam Airlines [ ] ¥1-2 million Two nights at the Hilton Niseko [ ] [ ] [ ] Expat life in Japan [ ] ¥2-4 million Village in [ ] [ ] [ ] Traditional Japanese culture [ ] ¥4-6 million And [ ] [ ] [ ] Contemporary Japanese culture [ ] [ ] [ ] Doing business in Japan [ ] More than ¥6 million Free dinner at Suji’s for 10 lucky survey takers. [ ] [ ] [ ] Japanese politics [ ] Rather Not Say Do it online at www.weekenderjapan.com [ ] [ ] [ ] International relations in Asia [ ] Rather Not Say but in the top half of [ ] [ ] [ ] Opinion pieces your scale above [ ] [ ] [ ] Families in Tokyo [ ] [ ] [ ] Entertainment options in Japan 16. Are you a member of a [ ] [ ] [ ] Reporting on Japanese celebrities [ ] Sports/Health club/gym (Please [ ] [ ] [ ] Social scene reporting To be eligible for the Weekender 2010 Reader Survey [ ] [ ] [ ] Travel in Japan Specify______) prize drawing, fill out your contact details and submit [ ] [ ] [ ] Travel in Asia [ ] Social club (______) your answers. If you have been chosen to win a prize, you will be contacted by The Weekender by the end of [ ] [ ] [ ] Health & Fitness [ ] A networking group (______) December 2010. [ ] [ ] [ ] Lifestyle [ ] A biz organization (______) [ ] [ ] [ ] Fashion Full name______[ ] A charity (______) 6. Please tell us where you would like to see Address______Weekender distributed in the future (name of 17. Do you have pets? ______establishment) ______[ ] Dog(s) - How many? (______) Phone number______7. Are you... [ ] Cat(s) - How many? (______) [ ] Male [ ] Female [ ] Other pet(s) (______) Email address______10 WEEKENDER Arts & Entertainment

Reason in an age of AIDS

by Owen Schaefer

eter Piot, the UNAIDS program executive director, once wrote Indian-born Canadian photographer Sunil Gupta brings a sense that “Art and AIDS have been inextricably linked throughout the of hope back into the show. When Gupta took on the project of Pepidemic’s quarter of a century history. Art has conveyed what photographing gay men in Delhi in 1986, he was forced to take images words alone cannot.” of people with their faces hidden. The social stigma was so strong and But art is linked to AIDS not only through some altruistic need to the gay community so thin, that it could only be a documentary of hidden express the inexpressible, but by the fact that many artists have lost loved lives. But when Gupta returned to the idea 20 years later, he found the ones or their own lives to the disease. The Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of situation very changed. While the community was still subdued, his Photography’s current show, “Love’s Body — Art in the age of AIDS,” is a subjects were willing to show their faces. (In 2009, the colonial law hard-hitting reminder of this. criminalizing homosexuality was struck down.) The show features works by eight international artists and broadens The show’s sole Japanese artist also takes a positive, albeit curiously the museum’s perspective in terms of medium by including paintings, subversive, approach to the subject. Akira the Hustler, aka Cho Yukio, is scattered sculptures and a ready-made object. Many of the artists are not showing photographs at all, but instead gives us a number of ceramic not only photographers but known equally as well, or better, in other sculptures of same-sex couples linked by red string — referencing the disciplines. As AIDS doesn’t discriminate who it selects, it’s appropriate myth of lovers being tied together by destiny in the form of a red string. that the show doesn’t either. In one of the sculptures, the string is no longer string, but blood on their Going clockwise through the exhibition, one first encounters the clasped hands, but the couple seem happy and smiling regardless. Then, ceiling-high image of a large bearded man nestling a pink new-born in a slightly cloying video in which the phrase “The world is filled with baby on his chest. What you learn is that the baby is the daughter of AA love” is repeated again and again, there is a remark to the effect that Bronson’s partner, Mark Jan Krayenhoff de Leur, and thus the child of sometimes a virus comes along with love. In both sculpture and video, four different parents, two men and two women. It is an image of love, Akira the Hustler ties the disease up inextricably with love, forcing the and one that challenges the preconceptions of the viewer. At the same viewer to accept that both may come together. time, the image’s origins are in death: Years earlier, Bronson took a As a subtitle, “Art in the age of AIDS” is an considered one. Although deathbed photo of his friend and collaborator Felix Partz in much the the panic may have faded, society is still very much in the “age of AIDS,” same position. He regards the newer version as a photo of life, balancing and, in a country like Japan where the number of AIDS-related deaths the photo chronicling death. It is the perfect place to begin and end remains thankfully low, the issue has been far too easy to ignore. a circular show that explores the very same questions of death, life, prejudice and love. Australian artist William Yang provides the most documentary work Exhibition: ”Love’s Body — Art in the age of AIDS” of the show — a painful photo diary of a friend and lover slowly, and then (till Dec. 5) rapidly, declining. Continuing this painful thread are the dark and lonely Venue: Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Photography images of French author and photographer, Hervé Guibert; the influential (Ebisu Station) portraits of Peter Hujar; a set of paintings and a ready-made by Cuban artist Felix Gonzalez-Torres; and the angry paintings and photos of David Hours: 10 noon–6 pm (till 8 pm Thu. & Fri.; closed Mon.) Wojnarowicz, who railed against the gay-bashing that thwarted attempts Admission: ¥800 to deal with the issue of AIDS. More info: Visit www.syabi.com or call (03) 3280-0099

WEEKENDER 11 Tokyo Tables Tokyo Tables

Antica Osteria, Marunouchi by Stephen Parker

hen chef Ezio Santin crossed the stone bridge over the Naviglio Grande, his life was forever changed. The former Wwine salesman-turned-sommelier created a Michelin-starred restaurant there in an old inn by the bridge, despite a lack of culinary training. It was his knowledge from his former career — the foods and where to source them — that brought his success: In his book European Master Chefs, French food critic Henri Gault points out that “beneath the restaurant is a , and behind it are vegetable gardens. (Ezio’s) ingredients are, without exception, carefully selected with the The current menu revisits 15-year-old classics, as was obvious keenest eye.” with the extravagant beluga caviar-topped pasta that is clearly more Here in Tokyo, thousands of miles from its namesake is another indebted to the heady Bubble Era than today’s recession times. Antica Osteria Del Ponte, one of only two in the world. Entering the Thankfully, the chef, who refused to compromise on ingredients, is still restaurant on the top floor of the Marunouchi building, you are guided living in the past. The handmade Mediterranean style parcel containing through arguably the most important part of the restaurant: the wine shrimp and shell fish was the highlight of the meal that was paired cellar. All visitors are welcomed with a chilled glass of sparkling expertly with a chilled 2007 Pino Bianco. spumanti, a wine produced exclusively for Antica. The main course offered a simple choice: fish or meat. Opting for The food is simple and artfully presented fare. On a recent visit, the roasted pork cheek was a good decision, the dish so soft we started with an creamy appetiser of carrot flan, after which a guilt it fell off the fork. Presentation was excellent as well, with a simple inducing, gorgeously rich foie gras followed, with an unusual mango potato puree and colorful circle of crunchy, raw vegetables contrasting and pineapple chutney, balsamic sauce and toasted bread. perfectly with the meat. According to maitre d’ Galardi Maurizio, the wine selection at Antica Osteria del Ponte the original Antica houses enough of a supply to last 10 years. There are Marunouchi Building 36F roughly 27,000 bottles of over 2,200 types of wine, including Romanee- 2-4-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku Conti, Chateau Lafitte Rothschild and Chateau d’ Yquem and renowned Tokyo from across Italy. The Tokyo restaurant may only have a Open all week, 11:30 am-9 pm fraction of these, but the condensed selection is hugely impressive and (03) 5220-4686 staff were eager to assist with pairing. For any Epicureans looking for a www.miyoshi-grp.com chance to live large, you now know to head to the top of the Marunouchi building if the big-one ever hits Tokyo.

12 WEEKENDER // Tokyo Tables

Les Vinum, Nishi Azabu by Norman Breakes

hicken, pork, fish, beef, pasta.Chicken, pork, fish, beef, pasta — since when did we have to settle for such a paltry Cspread of choices in our daily dinning options? It’s tyranny. (Dear vegetarians, if it isn’t already clear from the intro, we’re not speaking for you here.) When you have run through all the international permutations of these basic building blocks of the dinner table and are ready to break free of the routine, here’s where you go: Les Vinum. Why? Wild game. Hokkaido deer, French quail and pheasant, Japanese wild duck, all delicately roasted on a sumiyaki charcoal grill. Add to this a menu that features fresh oysters, homemade lamb sausage, chicken livers and roast chestnuts, and you start to feel like you have discovered Tokyo’s secret gentleman’s club, a place where there must be a backroom in which you can smoke a cigar, play billiards, read a dusty volume on the history of ancient Rome and cut a deal on the latest insurance bonds for ships departing for India. Every meal starts with Les Vinum’s well-known chawan mushi, a savory egg custard made with a refreshing, fruity tomato broth, a welcome change on the standard. We went with the flounder carpaccio — well, let’s call it sashimi because this is Japan after all. It was the right choice to unlock the secret of owner Makoto Tokuhara’s establishment; the slices of fish were seasoned with a mix of Japanese ingredients, including the yellow flowers and purple sprouts that decorate many a plate of sashimi, but more importantly, chewy bits of konbu seaweed that at first could have been mistaken for citrus rinds. The lesson? While on the menu the meal looks Western, on the plate it is a considered meeting of Japan with the outside world. Tokuhara is a sommelier, and matched our fish with a light Bourgogne Aligoté, a less tart version of the wine used in a Kir. A briny fish soup between appetizers and mains came with sides of cheese, garlic and toast that you could add to taste. For the mains, we opted for the quail, plump in the middle and bacon-flavored on the ends, and the deer, a blood red slice of lean meat that was the perfect antidote to the fatty beef of wagyu-fame. A bold and fruity Californian was more than up to the challenge of complimenting these dishes. In proper fashion, Tokuhara presented our desserts (a devilish chocolate gateau and an apple pie of pure innocence) with a glass of port. We looked for the secret door to the club, but to get in I am sure we’ll Authentic French Cuisine and Delicacies have to make a couple more appearances — and that’s hardly a problem. Come Check Our Holiday Specials!

www.troiscochons.jp Shop information 4-5-55, Minamiazabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo (1min walk from National Azabu) TEL 03-6450-3968 Opening hours: 10:30 – 20:00 closed on Monday

WEEKENDER 13 Feature: Notes on Tasting

SOUTHERN FOODWAYS ALLIANCE PHOTO Notes on wine tasting An interview with Fumihiko Kamo

XLIBBER JON PHOTO

14 WEEKENDER F e a t u r e : Notes on Tasting

PHILLIP CAPPER PHOTO

Recently it’s felt like an invitation to another wine tasting appears in our inboxes daily. Obviously the Tokyo wine scene is taking off, but how do you make sense of all the choices? The Weekender spoke to an expert sommelier to seek insights from his years of experience

GEOFFREY FAIRCHILD PHOTO

WEEKENDER 15 F e a t u r e : Notes on Tasting

Sommelier Fumihiko Kamo started out How did you become interested in the world of wine? At first, I aspired to become a professional cook. I worked in in the kitchen, and, if it weren’t for a the kitchen of French restaurant in Tokyo for six months after confused search for a in a my graduation. During that time, one of the service staff left cellar, he might still be there. Today, the the restaurant, and I was transferred to the service section from the kitchen. chef and wine expert applies his more One day, I was ordered to deliver a bottle of a certain wine, than 25 years of experience in the wine but I had no idea which one it was, as there were so many trade to selecting the perfect vintages to wine bottles in the wine cellar. Looking at me with a surprised expression, my boss exclaimed, ‘You do not know anything accompany the cuisine of the Mandarin about wine even though you were in France for one year!” Oriental hotel’s two Michelin-starred That made me want to learn about wine. restaurants, Signature and Sense. Kamo What were the most important lessons from the first tastings spoke to the Weekender about how that you attended? professionals approach wine tastings, I learned breaking down the balance of sweetness, acidity, the what he’s learned along the way, and a volume of alcohol and tannins from the chef sommelier of the first restaurant I worked for in France. funny thing that happened when he was just about to finally get to try a 1961 Were there any big surprises that you didn’t expect from the Château Pétrus wine scene? Once I tasted a bottle of wine produced in 1970 and made a judgment that we could not recommend this wine any more as it had already passed the peak of its taste. Still, we were at a loss of what to do as there were six bottles of the wine remaining in our stock at that time. Soon after that, a guest made request, saying that he

16 WEEKENDER F e a t u r e : Notes on Tasting

Like most months, there is a wide range of wine events and include five wines. The class will be lead by wine expert Jan tastings in and around Tokyo. Here’s what we found without Nelson. The nearest station is Enoshima on the Odakyu Line. even really trying: For more information, call (03) 6438-1685

Beaujolais for Books Simply Italian Great Wines Japan 2010 If you want to enjoy wine and give a gift of free books to Learn more about great Italian wines and meet successful children in need at the same time, then attend the producers. Join the wine party “Simply Italian for Books party. Beaujolais for Books takes place on Nov. Great Wines Japan 2010” on Nov. 26 from 10:30 am till 5 pm 20, 6:30-9:30 pm at Soleil Provence. The ticket prices are at the Aoyama Diamand Hall. For more information, call (03) ¥3,500 per person, which includes food and two glasses of 5467-2111 Beaujolais. For more information, call (04) 6624-5381 The Jeroboam Fine Wine Club Christmas Wine Party The Kimono Wine Bar More than 30 wines will be served from all over the world at The Kimono Wine Bar has been hosting wine classes the “Jeroboam Fine Wine Club Christmas Wine Party,” which throughout the past year. The last wine school for 2010 will be held on Nov. 20 from 4 till 6 pm. Tickets are ¥4,500 and CONTINUED ON PAGE 21

wanted to have a really full flavored wine, and asked me ‘Do you have any wine that tastes like the falling leaves or leaves dying in the Autumn?’ My mind quickly flashed back on that 1970 wine and served it to the guest. The guest was perfectly satisfied and said that it was just what he was looking for. I learned from this experience that I shouldn’t judge a wine based only on my own tasting. One wine that I might judge to be damaged, could be the one which a guest would positively delight in. The six remaining bottles of that wine were sold out just six months after that.

How do tasting sessions differ from each other? What kinds of tastings are there? Well, where I work, we sometimes organize special wine events or dinners in our modern French restaurant Signature and in Sense, our Cantonese restaurant — both of which are Michelin Starred — or at K’shiki, which is ‘Asian inspired’ dining. Usually we first decide the area of production, such as France, the United States or Chile. Then we request a specific to offer us a special wine to feature from that region, and then ask for some other additional line-up to follow the featured wine. So far we have organized these kinds of special wine dinners every two months, but would like to have more in 2011.

How do professional approach tastings? At first, we observe the character, nature and quality of the wine carefully and taste each wine while considering whether it would be appropriate for our restaurant, for example, what kind of cuisine it would match to delight the guests more.

What is the best way to enjoy a tasting? Sommelier Fumihiko Kamo Upon the first encounter with a wine, you have no information, so I am always curious to find out about its personality. I first their flavours, it feels as if I have made a new friend each time. observe the appearance as I would a person. Then I move on to one of the draws of wine, its aroma, and take it in while What are you biggest recommendations for educating searching in my mind for the precise words to describe it. yourself better if you love wine and want to know more? I then taste the wine — from the tip of the tongue, I let it Enjoy the wine simply at first regardless of any knowledge you flow to the sides and through the center all the way back — might already have about that particular vintage. and analyze the balance of sweetness, acidity, bitterness and Find as many opportunities as possible to do tastings and tannins. In addition, I study the length of time the aftertaste experience as many kinds of wine as possible. remains in order to determine the personality and uniqueness When I meet a really great wine, or one of my favorites, I of the wine. I have been fortunate enough to ‘meet’ a variety am deeply interested in it and think, ‘What kind of place is this of wines through tasting opportunities, and, by understanding made in? What kind of person is making this wine?’ Then I will

WEEKENDER 17 F e a t u r e : Notes on Tasting

IT’S HOLLY PHOTO

visit the or producers and talk directly with the wine as a fake by an inscription on the cork that read ‘1970 Château maker to learn more about them. Pétrus’! This was of course a tremendous disappointment, since If you can feel their personality and passion, the door into I had invested a lot of money to participate in the event and the deep world of wine will open. ended up drinking only a 1970 Château Pétrus. Shortly after, I was contacted by the organizer, who informed Has anything unusual happened at any tastings that you have me that they had won a dispute in court over the wine, and would attended? be holding a real tasting event for the 1961 Château Pétrus. The There was a tasting opportunity to try the 1961 Château attendance was free of charge, and not only did I taste the 1961 Pétrus. However, once the bottle was opened, it was identified Château Pétrus, but also a 1961 Château Mouton Rothschild, which was an ultimate experience, never to be forgotten.

Professional tastings are suppose to involve spitting out wine This was of course rather than drinking it — do sommeliers always follow that rule? Or does it depend on the tasting? a tremendous It depends on the quantity that you are tasting. If we taste more than 100 bottles, I never drink, I spit. On the disappointment, other hand, if I were tasting a limited number of vintage bottles, I would slowly intake the wine with full concentration and enjoy since I had invested the sensation of drinking down the liquid itself.

What wines have you been interested in recently? a lot of money to I am interested in Japanese wine. I have not visited a lot of local wine makers yet, but I am sure the quality of Japanese wine is participate in the up-grading year by year. I want to visit them more and more to event and ended up know more about them. What do you like to drink when you aren’t drinking wine? drinking only a 1970 For a casual meal, I have liked drinking beer since I was living in France. I also like having delicious coffee and English tea. W

18 WEEKENDER WEEKENDER 19 ADVERTORIAL

SakuraSakura Roppingi’sRoppingi’s TopTop WineWine ShopShop

Combining a wine shop, a restaurant and The Bar a bar, a new-style of shop opened behind In a corner of the shop outfitted with sofas, chic tables and a Roppongi station at the end of September counter, designed specially with cherry tree changing lights for the evening. Pay per order standing bar is offered at the counter for The Wine Shop Sommelier customers just interested in having some wine or drink. With over 15 kinds of wine available by the glass from ¥450 Sommelier’s unique point, which allows it to feature some of the each, this affordability is the secret of the wholesaler. Cocktails finest imported wine in the world, is a cellar that is 5 meters below and beers follow suit, including Heineken Extra Cold; using a spe- ground and holds more than 800 kinds of wine. The staff deal cial draft tower, the beer is served below freezing, making it extra directly with , making these high quality wines to be avail- creamy. And just to round things off, quality coffees are available able at lower than market places — quite possibly at the lowest with skilled baristas decorate your latte or cappuccino to perfec- prices in Japan. tion. On-site sommeliers will assist you, making it easier to find your favorites, gifts for upcoming Christmas or any occasion, and daily wines. Wines purchased at Wine Shop Sommelier can of course be tak- en home, or you can take them next door to Wine Dining Sakura for a corkage fee of only ¥500 and enjoy them with your meal.

The Wine Dining Sakura

Complementing Sommelier is the casual restaurant Wine Dining Sakura. The restaurant is named for the Cherry tree in front of the shop. Dishes from Italian, French and Spanish cuisine are sug- gested to match the wine you have selected. Sakura has its own specially ordered brick oven from the World famous craftsman Johnny Akunt. The main table overlooks the open kitchen, where you can watch the chefs industriously preparing food and baking pizzas. Pinchos are available from ¥150, tapas from ¥300.

Address: 21 Roppongi Bldg. 1F, Roppongi 6-1-12, Minato-ku, Tokyo Access: Less than a minute’s walk from exit 3 of Roppongi station Hours: Open 365 days a year; Thu.-Sat. 11:30 am-5 am (Last order 4 am); Sun.-Wed. & National Holidays, 11:30 am-11;30pm (Last order 10:30 pm) Prices: Lunch ¥1,000-¥1,500, Dinner ¥3,000-¥5,000 Seating: 65 seats in the restaurant, 35 seats in the bar, places for 20 standing Phone: (03) 3470-4711 (Wine Shop Sommelier) Phone: (03) 5786-3939 (Wine Dining Sakura)

English menu available

20 WEEKENDER // Feature: Notes on Tasting

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 17 takes place Nov. 27 from 7 to 9:30 pm at Aquavit, Tokyo. The nearest station is Gaienmae. Ticket prices are ¥12,000 in advance and ¥13,000 at the door. Reservations are required. For more information, call (03) 5786-3280

Wine tasting with Makoto Endo Makoto Endo, the famous author of the book “A Guide to Japan’s Wineries” is hosting a domestic wine tasting event on Nov. 21, 2-5 pm (¥3,000). On Nov. 22, Endo is also hosting a Japanese wine dinner, which features vintages from Kizan, Takahata and Watanabe vineyards (9 am-5 pm; ¥ 22,000). Both events will be held at the Peninsula Hotel in Tokyo. For more information, call (03) 6270-2691

Coco Farm and Winery’s 27th Annual Festival If you don’t mind going out of town, Coco Farm and Winery’s is hosting its 27th Annual Harvest Festival Nov. 20-21. Head over and enjoy two days of great food, excellent wine and live music. The festival starts daily 10:30 am and goes till 3:30 pm. Coco is located at 611 Tajima-cho, Ashikaga-shi, Tochigi-ken; admission ¥2,000; for more information, call (02) 8442-1194 French Wines with live music The live music party “French Wines, Cheeses and Soul & Wine tasting at Legato Funk” is being held at the Fiat Space ( Aoyama 1-chome) Enjoy a wine tasting with a gourmet French Dinner Dec. 4, 8-10:30 pm. A ¥3,980 ticket includes drinks, cheese on Nov. 27, 7 pm at the upscale Legato Restaurant in Shibuya. and music, or for ¥ 4,980 you can enjoy all the above with a ¥9,980 in advance or ¥10,980. For more information, contact: guaranteed spot on a sofa plus a glass of Champagne. For [email protected] more information, contact: [email protected]

WEEKENDER 21 Autumn Dining Special Autumn Dining The Door at Grand Hyatt Tokyo

The Oak Door, one of Roppongi’s most popular restaurants will be offering comfort food throughout November, perfect for the autumn weather.

The Oak Door at the Grand Hyatt Tokyo will offer autumn menus until 30 November, 2010, featuring a line-up of numerous offers to enjoy with couples and friends for this season, when nature shows off its beautiful changes during a time of harvest, prosperity and abundance. Chef Troy’s comfort food recommendation is the home-style Shepherd’s pie, using Hokkaido potatoes and Australian lamb, served in a refined copper pan, to match; indulge in a glass of The Boy K Vintners, a sweet and juicy fruit-flavoured beverage, as you wait for the pie to be finished in The Oak Door’s dramatic wood burning ovens. Autumn Set Menu Don’t miss out on the special Autumn menu with pears, Until 30 November, 6:00 pm - 10:30 pm pumpkin, duck, brussels sprouts and chestnuts. The Leeuwin Organic rocket, pear, pecorino, Estate is a fine aromatic wine to match with pumpkin caramelised walnuts, red wine dressing soup, bringing out the seasonal taste. Another recommended Roasted pumpkin soup, pumpkin seeds, sour cream wine is the Dog Point , perfect with wood roasted Wood roasted honey marinated duck breast, cranberry jelly honey marinated duck breast and cranberry jelly. Pinot Noir is a or Char grilled NZ venison loin, beetroot jam, traditional match with the duck breast, and the cranberry jelly will green peppercorn sauce accentuate the berry flavour. Brussels sprouts with bacon On 24 & 25 November, The Oak Door will be offering a or traditional Thanksgiving dinner, with roasted turkey, sweet Mashed potato potato, cranberry relish, chowder, a pumpkin pie and a pecan pie. Chestnut tart and chestnut ice cream Tea or coffee An excellent opportunity for all our guests, from all backgrounds, ¥8,500 to experience an American Thanksgiving dinner. Shepherd’s Pie - Autumn Menu Until 30 November 11:30 am – 2:30 pm For further information: Mixed field greens, garlic chips, The Oak Door vinaigrette The Oak Door, or Grand Hyatt Tokyo Chef’s daily soup Shepherd’s pie 6-10-3 Roppongi Coffee or Tea Minato-Ku, Tokyo 106-0032 ¥1,800 Tel: 03-4333-8784 Daily tart, ice cream (Additional ¥650) www. tokyo.grand.hyatt.com

22 WEEKENDER // Weekender Sports

WEEKENDER 23 Parties, People, Places

2010 Halloween Parties

Peter and Gina Capizzi and their kids Dean, Mia and A.J. June and Hikari Mori

A bunch of Jokers; left: One Piece

Oman Embassy’s Abeer al Muslahi and Karim; right: the gladiator Aaron

rying to put this column together Sunday, Nov. 7 and in checking the calendar for the rest of the year, I woke Tup to the fact that there’s just 47 more shopping days until Christmas. Several businesses have already put up Christmas trees, and, when I come home after midnight, I see PARTIES city workers busy putting holiday lights on all those big trees on Omotesando dori. As I and many of my friends seem to be saying more and more, “Where does the time go?” Halloween, PEOPLE which really received a lot of hype this year, is over, even though a few places haven’t taken down their decorations. It was fun, but emceeing three nights of people-packed PLACES all-night parties at the Lex, judging the costume contest at National Azabu supermarket and helping with a wonderful party for children with special needs at the Oman Embassy WITH BILL HERSEY really did wear me out. Seemed like old times seeing so many people really get into the mood with all kinds of fun costumes at Roppongi’s many happenings, Favorite’s for the guys included the late

2424 WEEKENDER Parties,Parties, People People, & Places

Diplomats’ Photo Exhibition

Clockwise from left: Anita Pratap next to her photo “Zen Moment,“of her husband, Norwegian Amb. Arne Walther; Newlyweds Alejandro and Kasumi Basanez; Mori Arts Museum President Yoshiko Mori; Honorary exhibition Pres. Princess Takamado, chairperson Colombian Amb. Patricia Cardenas and Prize winners Bengt Westerbalad (US, left) and Tom Kuczynski (Poland)

Libyan national day

TV Personalities Mari Cristine and Kyoko Spector Host Engila Anagih and her sons Ashref and Grace Saito and departing Libyan Charge d’ with Libyan Charge d’ Affaires Ahmed Naili Emad Affaires Anagih A.B. Anagih

and great actor Heath Ledger’s Joker facial makeup, pirates, Guam to entertain the huge Filipino population there. the Mad Hatter, vampires, Japanese animated characters and Right after Halloween, I had the opportunity to spend macho gladiators from the Warner Brothers film “300” and TV three days in busy, booming Seoul on a film project. Former series “Rome” and “Spartacus.” There were lots of younger Tokyoites Ron and Maria Anderson, who had just visited there girls in Lady Gaga drag, while office girls seemed to favor to “spend some time” with their good friends, Seoul mayor pussycats, angels, devils and nurses looking for someone to and Mrs. Se Hoon Oh, had given me some very useful advise. take care of. This included flying Asiana Airlines, which they think is great. I As always, Peter and Gina Capizzi’s kids were winners at tried the airlines and agree with them all the way. National. Mia was a boxed Barbie doll, A.J. a cup noodles, and G20 was going on in Seoul so hotels were pretty much Dean an onigiri rice ball. Kudos as well to Abeer al Muslahi, booked up. We did get rooms — unbelievable rooms — at the wife of the Oman ambassador. Her house was really well the recently opened Banyan Tree. Talk about putting on the decorated with all kinds of fun ghosts and witches, as well as Ritz! Seoul is real happening, so colorful and so exciting, and some really scarey background moaning and groaning. Dutch a really great getaway that’s less than two hours away. My clown Rene Bosman entertained at the kids’ party and, as only regret was that there was no time to see the Broadway always, was great. musical Billy Elliot that’s currently playing there. That’s At one of the Lex parties, a group of 15 top Filipino actors, another reason to go back soon. actresses, singers and directors showed up, and they really Still on South Korea, a late but sincere congratulations on know how to party. After their Tokyo concert, they headed to the super Korean festival that Dentsu helped put together in

WEEKENDER 25 Parties, People, Places

Saudi Arabia’s national day celebration at the Imperial Hotel

Above: Saudi students danced the night away; far left: Bahrain Amb. Dr. Khalil Hassan and biz tycoon/enviromentalist Yasuyuki Nambu; left: Saudi Amb. Abdulaziz Turkistani and Omanian Amb. Khalid Al Muslahi

Singapore National Day Bill Hersey with former prime minister Tsutomu Hata and his wife Ayako

Indian Amb. Hemant Krishan Singh (LEFT? RIGHT?) and the newly arrived Indian Deputy Chief Of Mission Sanjay Panda

Hosts Singaporean Minister Counsellor Laurence Bay and his wife Elizabeth Kwan with former Prime Minister and Mrs. Yasuo Fukuda

Composer/musician David Foster and vocalist Milla Jovovich, Ali Larter, Wentworth Matthew Ireton at the party after Kyodo Tokyo’s Miller and Sony Pictures Dick Sanno “David Foster and Friends” concert where Bill Hersey and South African/Japanese pop at the “Resident Evil: Afterlife” premier Matthew got to sing in front of 5,000 people singer Baby M at a South African reception Parties, People, Places

Roppongi Hills. The entertainment was really good, I was just national day gala celebration at the Imperial Hotel. Guests, sorry there weren’t more food outlets. of course, missed the couple. The Tans asked deputy chief of Here’s a few suggestions for inexpensive things to do mission Laurence Bay and his wife Elizabeth to host the event, when and if you have time: Drop by the TGIF restaurant in and they really did a commendable job. People there that Roppongi in the evenings and catch the juggling show by the evening included top Japanese government officials, business bartenders — those guys really know what they’re doing; Visit leaders, diplomats and familiar faces from the arts, fashion the farmers’ market on weekends in front of the UN University and entertainment worlds. — there’s all kinds of fruits, vegetables, etc., as well as a half Special guests included former prime minister and Mrs. a dozen booths selling big healthy meals, fruit juices and more Tsutomu Hata, as well as former prime minister and Mrs. at really reasonable prices. Nice people, great ambiance. Yasuo Fukuda. In addition to the bountiful buffet presented by the hotel’s food and beverage department, the Tans had Libyan farewell party arranged for several of the best Singapore restaurants in and Prior to his departure, Libyan Charge d’ Affaires and Mrs. around Tokyo to sit up booths and serve their specialities. The Anagih A.B. Anagin hosted a well-attended reception. The satay, dim sum and Hainan chicken were delicious. occasion was to celebrate the 41st anniversary of the great Alfateh Revolution. It was a relaxed gathering of interesting Saudi Arabia’s national day celebration at the Imperial people enjoying the company and the bountiful buffet. Anagin There were guests galore at Saudi ambassador Turkistani’s and his family have returned to Libya for his new assignment. festive celebration on the occasion of his country’s national We wish them all the best. day. Many of the students from Saudi wore national costumes, and several times during the evening groups went on stage Diplomats’ photo exhibition at Roppongi Hills and performed the energetic traditional dances. It really It was wall to wall people at the opening reception and awards brought back some great memories of my two weeks visit to ceremony for the 13th “Japan through Diplomats’ Eyes” photo Saudi Arabia where I was a guest of the National Guard for exhibition in Roppongi Hills recently. The programs included the colorful, dynamic and truly spectacular Janadriya culture welcome speeches by honorary president Princess Takamado, festival in the desert outside of Riyadh. What an experience chairperson Colombian amb. Patricia Cardenas and that was! Our congratulations to our many Saudi friends on representatives of the three major sponsors, Konica Minolta, their national day. BMW and Whiskey. The Prince Takamado Memorial prize was awarded Good news to Polish second secretary Tom Kuczynski for his photo Also, congratulations to Junko Matsuhisa — Nobu’s daughter “Whatever masks may be, they are not unreal — unless one — and her husband Yoshiyuki Sunoda on the birth of their wants to deny the playfulness of reality,” and the grand daughter Elena in Los Angeles on Oct. 2. Many of you know prize went to Bengt Westerblad, whose wife works at the US Junko from her work at her father’s Tokyo restaurant Nobu embassy for his photo “Bamboo Craft.” The photos were all behind the Okura Hotel. excellent and each a reflection of the artistic side of those who took them. I, of course, had my favorites, “Zen Moment” On the sad side by Anita Pratap, the wife of the Norwegian ambassador I was really sorry to hear about actor Tony Curtis passing and another titled “Head Start for MOMO-NO-SEKKU” away. I spent considerable time with the really fun guy here, by Zimbabwe amb. Stuart Comberbach. A big and true LA and in Hawaii. Once when he was here for an exhibition of congratulations to all the participants who made the exhibition his paintings, I took him to a party at the Argentine embassy the special event it was. and swear he kissed every lady there on both cheeks. A few of them jokingly told me they didn’t wash their face Singapore National Day for a month. Tony, who was in his mid-80s had a Sorry that Singapore amb. Chin Tiong Tan and very productive and interesting life. He’ll certainly his wife Maureen had to be out of Japan for their be missed by his many friends and fans.

Australian/Japanese Singer/Model Michelle Helen Hatt (Deutsche Bank) and her daughter Nakajima fashion personality Martin Webb, Weekender’s Tomas Castro and his lovely wife Rachel Koichi And Daniele Yoshikoshi Tomoe

WEEKENDER 27 T r a v e l

The good life in Florence and Rome

JORGE PAZMINO PHOTO by Kelly Wetherille

uring the Roman Empire, Italy’s capital city had the honor of being the center of Western civilization, Dbut Rome’s modern side offers just as much to the curious traveler as its many ruins. That’s not to diminish the impressiveness of such sights — first-time visitors would be committing a grave error to skip the Colosseum or the Roman Forum. But many travelers also make the mistake of not looking beyond these magnificent landmarks. In order to make the most of a short visit to Rome, stay at one of the many hotels or bed and breakfasts around TRISHHHH PHOTO the Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain. Not only is the area in walking distance of many of the city’s best sights and neighborhoods, but it is also easily accessible by public international tourists is the Regina Baglioni, located on Via transportation from areas further afoot. Veneto just a few blocks from the beautifully landscaped One fantastic hotel that is popular with Italians but gardens surrounding the Villa Borghese. Completed in 1894, somehow seems to escape the majority of the onslaught of the Art Nouveau-style building was once home to Queen Margherita of Savoy, who stayed there while awaiting the ‘A man who has not been in completion of her permanent residence across the street, which now houses the American embassy. The family-run Italy is always conscious of an Baglioni hotel group took over the property in 1974, and has inferiority, from his not having outfitted the rooms and common areas with a lavish yet chic combination of Art Nouveau and Art Deco influences. The seen what it is expected a concierge is a wealth of information and goes out of his way man should see ... All our to arrange bookings at museums and other sites, and it is not uncommon to be surprised with complimentary fruit or religion, almost all our laws canapés if the staff is aware of a special occasion. and arts, almost all that sets Italians are known for their love of food and wine, and there is no better place to experience this than in Trastevere us above savages has come on the west bank of the Tiber River. The quaint cobblestone to us from the shores of the streets of this medieval neighborhood come alive after dark with bars, restaurants and pizzerias. With the bustle comes Mediterranean’ noise, making the area an undesirable place to stay, so head SAMUEL JOHNSON down, instead, for an aperitivo after spending the day at the

28 WEEKENDER Three great rides for your city kiddy Travel Japan Vatican or the Castel Sant’ Angelo. (The castle, which will appeal to military history buffs, has a fantastic bar and café that is quite possibly the best place in Rome to sip an espresso or cappuccino while enjoying breathtaking views. Ombre Rosse Caffé is a very popular spot with young Italians, and the lively yet rustic bar has outdoor seating and live music during the warmer months. Throughout Italy, it is easy to get delicious, authentic food at reasonable prices, so it’s best to avoid tourist traps, of which there are many in Trastevere. Locals recommend Da Ivo, which serves up piping hot, traditional pizzas to its daily crowds of regulars and visitors, including celebrities who pass through Rome.

lorence is the favorite city of many travelers to Italy, and for good reason. Its laid-back way of life, abundance of Fgreen spaces,and seemingly endless supply of art and artisans are enough to keep even the locals busy and happy. Certain sights — particularly the magnificent Duomo, the ROBERT CULLEN PHOTO Uffizi Gallery, and Michelangelo’s “David” at the Accademia Gallery — are must-sees. But once these and other major landmarks have been exhausted, try heading south of the A side trip to Tuscany Arno River for a different, less touristy experience. The area is largely residential and peppered with local bars and restaurants, and the Boboli Gardens offer magnificent views Once tourists have worn themselves out with the historic of Florence coupled with beautiful greenery and classical sights of Florence, the smart ones head to the Tuscany sculptures. To experience the area like the locals, try renting a to relax and unwind. The region of Chianti is stunning in bicycle and riding along the banks of the river and through the its natural beauty, and will particularly appeal to wine- narrow cobblestone streets. lovers. Skip the large “tasting bars” in the villages, and B&B Michelangelo, located within walking distance of the instead head to a family-owned wineries such as Fattoria Florence’s historic center, is a good option at a very reasonable Casaloste. Emilia d’Orsi, the friendly proprietress, price, and two of its three rooms have balconies overlooking a dispenses invaluable knowledge of both the local wines peaceful private garden. There is no round-the-clock reception, and the area itself while visitors sample the fruits of her but owner Niccolo Ricci gives fantastic recommendations family’s labor. on what to enjoy in the city, and he or his staff can always be Just down the road to the small town of Panzano reached if you need them. Michelangelo is a fourth-floor walk- in Chianti is the butcher shop-cum-restaurant Antica up, so some may prefer the nearby Abracadabra Rooms; both Macelleria Cecchini. Run by Dario Cecchini, who has been are close to free parking spots, which come in handy if you’re called the most famous butcher in Italy — possibly the looking to take a drive into the Tuscan countryside. world — by chef Anthony Bourdain, the restaurant’s staff There are plenty of atmospheric wine bars (including a great serve a fixed menu that offers the choice of a hamburger TRISHHHH PHOTO one called Fuori Porta) and local restaurants around the area. patty with potatoes and fresh veggies or a selection of Be sure to try Affé di Bacco for dinner — its extensive menu fresh, quality meats prepared in Cecchini’s own unique of pizzas and pastas won’t disappoint, and neither will the style. Order a carafe of the house wine and sit outside quality of food and service. And don’t miss a chance to sample on the sunny terrace to enjoy your meal, and you’ll think Florence’s best gelato at Vivoli Il Gelato near Santa Croce on the you’ve died and gone to heaven — Italian style. north side of the Arno — it’s an indulgence you won’t regret.

Contact information

Rome Regina Hotel Baglioni: +39-06-45403300 / www.baglionihotels.com Ombre Rosse Caffé: +39-06-5884155 / www.ombrerossecaffe.it Da Ivo: +39-06-581-7082

Florence and Tuscany B&B Michelangelo: +39-333-6339556 / www.bbfirenzecentro.it Abracadabra Rooms: +39-388-7933241 / www.abracadabrarooms.it Fuori Porta: +39-55-23424483 / www.fuoraporta.it Affé di Bacco: +39-55-6810109 / www.affedibacco.com Vivoli Il Gelato: +39-55-292334 / www.vivoli.it Fattoria Casaloste: +39-055-8560807 / www.casaloste.com Antica Macelleria Cecchini: +39-055-852020 / www.dariocecchini.com

GNUCKX PHOTO

WEEKENDER 29 // Real Estate

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30 WEEKENDER // // Real Estate Tokyo Apartment Search www.weekenderjapan.com/apartmentsearch Shirokane ¥475,000–¥990,000/month

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Oakwood Premier Tokyo Midtown: The ultimate urban retreat with 107 spectacular choice accommodations are located in the heart of the capital’s newest landmark; Tokyo Midtown. Immaculately designed with plush furnishings and premier amenities like home theatre systems and suite showers, every aesthetic detail has been luxuriously defined. Overlooking the beautiful Midtown Garden, each apartment boasts a private balcony offering panoramic views of the city.

For further details, please contact Oakwood Premier Tokyo Midtown. Tel:03-5412-3131 [email protected] Roppongi ¥650,000–¥1,500,000/month

Privately accessed, the 54 superbly designed residences are located from the 22nd to the 26th floor of the architecturally stunning Roppongi T-Cube tower, offering breathtaking views of Tokyo and the surrounding area. Each apartment is beautifully fitted with high-tech electronics, plush furnishings and gourmet kitchens.

For further details, please contact Oakwood Residence Roppongi T-Cube. Tel:03-6229-3131 [email protected]

To search for more properties in Tokyo, go to // www.weekenderjapan.com/apartmentsearch WEEKENDER 31 Bulletin Board

WEEKENDER Serving the Tokyo community with postings and classified sales since 1970 B ulletin Board

popular color of the model, 86211 km, 350 000 JPY only, Scooter for sale cable, wireless internet, and washing machine. ROOMS: There COMMUNITY CONTACT : (080) 3065-534 Cheap 125cc for sale 14, 000km engine runs; bike is at kita are a few rooms available, ranging from 3.5 to 9 tatami, price ¥ koshigaya station. 45,000 yen can deliver extra charge! 61,000-¥ 78,000/month + utilities (split equally). There are ILBS Christmas Charity Fair CONTACT: (080)1260-0333 both Japanese style rooms and western style rooms. Don’t miss this chance to buy lovingly made Xmas decorations CONTACT: (090) 9431-8428 & handicrafts, home and embassy baked desserts, white elephants & jewelry, stationery, mini-mart items. ILBS- supported institutions will also participate. This annual ICLOTHING Fair will be held Sat., Nov. 27, from 11am-3pm, at the Grand Prince Hotel Akasaka. Entrance tickets ¥ 500 at door. Great raffle prizes, tickets ¥ 500 each on site, drawing at 1:30pm (need not be present). Proceeds support ILBS charities. CONTACT: (03) 3498-2828

DAIHATSU MIRA AVY RS TURBO 2004 EXCELLENT CAR, 38,000 KM, ENGINE START, TURBO, INTERCOOLER, AT, SHAKEN MARCH 2011, DONT HAVE HARO V3 Mountain Bike PROBLEMS, ¥ 450,000 It’s lightweight aluminum frame and SR Suntour Fork are CONTACT: (090) 4281-8121 or [email protected] ideal for off-road adventure.Take to trail with confidence on Haro’s V3. Its reliable components and upright riding position make it a great around-town cruiser, too. The V3 comes with TWO WHEELS durable rims, versatile Kenda tires and smooth-shifting Silk Ties--Designer Brands Shimano drivetrain you’ll love. Size: 16” Color: Midnight blue 18 silk ties, mainly Hermès, Christian Dior, Versace, Chanel--16 Registered with papers and manual.Includes LED lights, back in excellent condition, 2 in good condition. All for ¥ 42,700 OBO. light, bottle holder and chain lock. Frame Construction, TIG- CONTACT: (090)1763-2279 or [email protected] The Society of Children’s Book Writers and Illustrators welded Frame Tubing Material: 6061 T6 Oversize Aluminum presents Children’s Literature Fork Brand & Model, SR Suntour XCM MLO, 100mm Fork Scholar Leonard Marcus: Advice from a Legendary Editor: Material: Aluminum/magnesium Rear Shock: Not applicable How Ursula Nordstrom Made Children’s Books That Last; Component Group: Mountain Mix, Brakeset: Tektro IO Nov. 28, 10-11:30 am; Tokyo Women’s Plaza, Conference Room Mechanical Disc w/6” Rotor brakes, Shimano levers Shift 1, 5-53-67 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, by Children’s Castle and UN Levers: Shimano EF50 Front Derailleur: Shimano C050 Rear University; for a map see www.scbwi.jp/map.htm Fee: ¥1,000 Derailleur: Shimano Alivio Crankset: SR Suntour CW-XCC, SCBWI members/¥1,500 nonmembers. 22/32/42 teeth Pedals: ATB Caged Bottom Bracket: TH Sealed CONTACT: [email protected] by Nov. 26, 2010 Kawazaki Valcan Classic 1500cc Cartridge BB Shell Width: Unspecified Rear Cogs: 8-speed, 11 This bike is licenced and ready to ride lots of fun to ride very 32 teeth Chain: Shimano HG40 Seatpost: Alloy Micro Adjust, clean and tidy wanting ¥ 350,000 bike is located at Kita 30.9mm diameter Saddle: Selle Sport Handlebar: Alloy Riser FOUR WHEELS koshigaya station please come to view if interested. Handlebar Extensions: Not included Handlebar Stem: Alloy CONTACT : (080) 1260-0333 Clamp-On Headset: 1 1/8” threadless Aheadset OS , Hubs: Pivit Disc Rims: Weinmann ZAC 19, 32-hole, Tires: 26 x 2.10” Kenda Klaw , Spoke Brand: Stainless steel, 14ga. (2.0mm) CONTACT: [email protected]

Bag: Psychedelic ROOMS/SHARED Great condition, ¥2,000, Holds a lot. See more at: http:// classifieds.gaijinpot.com/index/index/user_id/194 4 Mat Private Room near Ikebukuro CONTACT: (070) 5011- 9913 or [email protected] Tokyo Metro Fukutoshin & Yurakucho Line Knamecho 2006 BMW116i (Ikebukuro, Shinjuku). My room-mate had moved out next Ergo Baby Carrier BMW 116i one owner, just 7,000 km silver gray, very great month. I’m looking for a new room-mate. Our hosue is a Put the baby on your back comes with DVD on how to use bought condition, almost new, clean in and out, 2 key less, shaken up Japanese style building with a lovely courtyard. Most of our it new has only been used a few time like new ¥ 1,500 . 2011/9 ¥ 1.780.000. My cool trike room-mates are Japanese and Taiwanese. Fully furnished CONTACT: (080)1260-0333 CONTACT: (080) 1188-8989 Hello my friends. I need money, that is why I sell my baby. My (bed, bed sheet, pillow, bedquilt, table, chair, microwave, baby was made in China. It is just copy of the Yamaha Grand TV, refrigerator, Water Boiler and Warmer, cabinet, window Mens Reversible Water-Resistant Hooded Jacket Majesty. All parts is same with Yamaha Grand maje. I need curtains, washing machine, cooker, rice cooker, oven, and even As the description says, this is a mens jacket. The size is money so soon that is why i sell very cheap. Engine and frame the tableware) You can just move in with your baggage. Share medium. It has many pockets, and is fully reversible. It’s is in very good condition. New engine oil, new belt,new tires. toilets, showers and kitchen. Also a bathhouse nearby, 10 very stylish, fits exceptionally well, and is very high quality. It is white Angel for me in Tokyo. I have Shorui, and every need minutes walk from the station and convenient for shopping The It originally cost ¥ 8,500 . I have another of the same jacket, in documents of my trike. If anybody will buy my Baby...Please room rent is 60,000 yen per month with Internet FTTH fee (water, black, and if you want that one too I’ll sell you both for ¥ 7,000, take care like me. This bike can do everything that girls pay electricity, gas fees excluded). ¥ 60,000 refundable deposit. a great deal. The model in the photographs is about 180 cm attention to you. For it’s customising I payed much money in (5’10”) and 64kg (140 lbs), to give you a comparison. Japan and much of my time. If you want to see you can call me CONTACT: (080) 4207-5234 when you want. Excus me please... I decided to sell mu trike 911 Porsche Carrera Cabriolet 2000 100000 yen. It is the last price. Porsche Carrera 911convertible left hand drive, 74,500 km, CONTACT: [email protected] HDD navigation,leather seat, ETC, Body Silver Color Chaken 2011/9 ¥ 3,280,000 CONTACT: [email protected]

Ebisu Room in Tokyo Room at Ebisu. 5 min. from Station, JR and Hibiya metro line. ¥ 78,000 and ¥ 8,000 utilites. Very beautiful and clean. No key money. No Guarantor. No Agency fee!!! CONTACT: (080) 4223-0563 Shoes for larger footed women Shoes for larger footed women. JPY61000 Private Room in Japanese style house Pictured is a pair of black leather pants shoes great for long AREA :Nice quite Japanese neighborhood, with public Library days on your feet. Women’s Size 9 USA, Women’s size 7.5 UK ¥ Kids Sunn BMX and shops. The house is 1 station away from Ikebukuro (20 3,500 brand: Simple (www.simpleshoes.com);there are also Kids mini BMX carbon fiber forks all the good gear, perfect for minute walk). HOUSE :Live with Japanese flatmates in this about 19 pairs of shoes in all, ranging in price from ¥ 2,000 to ¥ Nissan Silvia SPEC-S AERO kids starting BMX, 2008 model payed ¥ 75,000 new will sell for ¥ newly refurbished Japanese style house; 2-story house 6,000. Many of these shoes cost about ¥ 10,000-¥ 18,000 new Auto AC, Air bag, Aftermarket Rear Spoiler, Muffler, Rear 15,000 has scratches and will need new tyres. with 5 rooms, good sized living room, and kitchen with lots of and are still in new or like new condition. See more shoes at: Lights, Alloy Wheels, Excellent Condition, Clean interior, Most CONTACT: (080) 1260-0333 cooking utensils. House includes large flat screen TV with http://www.flickr.com/photos/8519161@N02/sets I’m stilll 32 WEEKENDER // Bulletin Board

adding photos and have about another 4 pairs to add. Wedding Ministers Wanted CONTACT: (070) 5011- 9913 or [email protected] Wedding Minister URGENTLY Wanted! Christian Style Wedding Minister urgently wanted to perform ceremonies Brown GAP Sandals in a chapel located in Tokyo. Requested: experience in ¥ 2,130+ shipping ¥ 500. performing weddings, serious commitment to the job, some CONTACT: [email protected] Japanese language skills (as much as possible), good looks. Compensation is among the highest. TOYS CONTACT: (090) 8416-5352 Need female hair models Hi, Im looking for female hair models for events, competitions, etc. Requirements: willing to get their hair cut done in stylish manner OR hair color changed. CONTACT: [email protected] 150th Melbourne Cup celebrated SERVICES at the Grand Hyatt Hotel KERRY RAFTIS PHOTO/WWW.KEYSHOTS.COM Sell Nintendo DSi I sell my Nintendo DSi for ¥ 11,000 (because I don’t have time he 150th Running of the Melbourne Cup was celebrated anymore to play). It has been used only a few times and and has in Tokyo at the Grand Hyatt Hotel at a fabulous Lunch- no scratch on it. The color is black. It is sold with with 2 screen T protections already applied, 2 stylus (the normal one and a eon organised by the Australia Society Tokyo. A sell out event big one for writting games), a transparent cover case, and his two and a half weeks after tickets went on sale, nearly 160 power cable. No games are sold with it but of course a quick people attended in the company of Australian Ambassador demo without games can be done. Meeting point is preferrable Build attractiveBuild attractiv eJapanese Japanese and s tandand o ustandt from th eout crow fromd! the in Shinjuku or Shibuya area. crowd!O Onlynly We Wecan m caneet yo meetur very s yourpecific nveryeeds! Cspecificall now! needs! Murray McLean. The very funny MC Dave Thomas got eve-

CONTACT: (080) 3528-1371 Call now!Located in the bustling neighborhood of Shibuya, We Japanese Language School prides itself on innovative ryone warmed up in great Aussie spirit playing the Aussies customer service and effective, results-driven training Locatedfo inr p therofes bustlingsional types .neighborhood of Shibuya, We Japa- Experienced instructors offer customized lessons to meet and Kiwis off against each other and cracking fabulous jokes. nese Languagelearners' sp Schoolecific busi npridesess and itselfcommu onnica innovativetion aims, customer CHILDCARE so you're guaranteed to acquire the Japanese you actually Bindi Codrington was the lucky winner of a special 150th servicen andeed fo reffective, your workin gresults-driven life. training for profes- sional types.And We J apExperiencedanese Language Sinstructorschool is offering offer customized commemorative prize of two tickets to Australia, presented Babysitting and afterschool care service available Start-up Campaign from November 1st to November 20th, lessonso rto un meettil seat s learners’ are filled. specific business and communi- responsible and reliable childcare provider is offering Reserve your spot while you can! by Ambassador McLean. The winning table in the Calcutta cation aims, so you’re guaranteed to acquire the Japanese babysitting service on weekdays, evenings and weekends. Access：3 minutes walk from Shibuya station, across from enjoyed a fantastic return for their money. The Fashion in the I have years of experience working with children and can you actually OIOI ( MneedARU Ifor). 4F your, 1-22- working8 Jinnan, Sh life.ibuya-ku Tokyo. Tel：03-5489-6480 Field hotly contested in all categories of Best Dressed Lady provide excellent references from people I have worked with And We Japanese Language School is offering both in the US and Japan. I am loving and caring and I make the Start-upww Campaignw.we-japan.c ofromm November 1st to November 20th, and Man and Best Hat. There were also many fabulous door time I spend with kids in my care FUN. I am happy to respond or until seats are filled. and raffle prizes to be won, donated by our generous spon- to last minute reservations if my schedule allows. ¥ 1,200 per Reserve your spot while you can! hour plus transportation. Fluent in Japanese. sors. But it wasn’t all about us having a good time: our charity CONTACT: (080) 3179-2532 Access 3 minutes walk from Shibuya station, across from Fukudenkai a children’s orphanage in Tokyo will also benefit; OIOI (MARUI). 4F, 1-22-8 Jinnan, Shibuya-ku Tokyo. from proceeds from the day. www.australiasocietytokyo.com Tel : (03) 5489-6480 JOBS www.we-japan.com

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Visualize: -a law firm image -a “Silicone Valley” culture -a second year 8 M yen upside Save An Animal Today Adopt or sponsor orphaned dogs, cats, and other animals Don’t send us your resume yet. We’re not as interested in rescued both in Tokyo and Osaka at Animal Refuge Kansai. what you’ve done as /what we are in what you want to do/. ARK animals need you! To adopt or foster a pet, please email Send a 1 page hand written letter telling us: [email protected] or call (050)1557-2763. www.ark- bark.net -what you believe you are capable of -the strongest natural talent you have -how we can reach you

CONTACT: c/o R. Pedersen All postings on our website are free. 5F, 8-5-8 Akasaka Premium postings will be printed in MInato-ku, Tokyo 107-0052 the Weekender and available online. For more information contact our Part-time personal assistant sales team at: Looking for a part-time personal assistant: fluent Japanese, intermediate-level or higher English. Starting wage ¥ 1,200/ hour plus transport. Negotiable later with good performance. (03) 5549-2038 or A few hours/ one day per week to begin with. Based at Nakano- [email protected] Shimbashi on the Marunouchi-line. CONTACT: (090)9851-9554

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