TRAILWALKER The Friends of the SUMMER 2018/19 Issue 150 FREE

HEYSEN HIGHLIGHTS The perfect

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• End-to-End Highlights • Twilight Walk Programme • The Salkantay Trek • Walking the Channel Islands PRINT POST APPROVED 100002147 Travelling to ? Alpana Sta�on Transport Service & Accommoda�on

David and Sally Henery of Alpana Sta�on Blinman offer a friendly, flexible and accredited transport service to the BEST (!) end of the Heysen Trail: Wilpena, Blinman, Parachilna Gorge Heysen Trailhead, for walkers (individuals or groups). Also transport to the Mawson Trail and further afield if required. Based just 5 km from Blinman in the , Alpana Sta�on offers: • Quality Selfcontained accommoda�on: Alpana shearers quarters for up to 14 people & Nungawur�na Hut bush retreat for up to 6 people • Powered sites with ensuite bathroom facili�es for caravans/campers • Scenic bush camping areas. Bookings Essen�al Contact David and Sally Henery Email: alpanasta�[email protected] Phone 08 8648 4626 Web: www.alpanasta�on.com PO Box 11, Blinman SA 5730

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228 Rundle St. Ph: (08) 8232 3155 Fax: (08) 8232 3156 TOLL FREE: 1800 039 343 Please ask for your FOHT Members Discount Gear For Going Places! Published by the Friends of the Heysen Trail & Contents Other Walking Trails Magazine of the Friends of the Heysen Trail Issue 150 Summer 2018/19 Suite 212, Epworth House 33 Pirie St, Adelaide SA 5000 Phone (08) 8212 6299 Web heysentrail.asn.au Email [email protected] 5 Facebook facebook.com/HeysenTrail 19 Twitter twitter.com/HeysenTrail President’s Report A Tale of Two Trips YouTube youtube.com/HeysenTrail Melanie Sjoberg Alan Davis writes of his hike from Pinterest pinterest.com/HeysenTrail Lewis Tops to Lake Sumner on New Zealand’s South Island.

Mid North Branch 7 Phone (08) 8841 3450 Heysen Highlights Email [email protected] Simon Cameron’s 21 book is a personal MEMBERSHIP INFORMATION Volunteer Profile: Single $25 per year companion guide Family $40 per year to walking the Colin Edwards Schools & Organisations $60 per year Heysen Trail. Colin Edwards is our first Membership is valid for 12 months from volunteer to be profiled for this the date of payment regular feature. TRAILWALKER MAGAZINE Deadline for the next issue (Autumn 2019): 9 Friday 2 February 2019 Hiking the trail with Views expressed in contributed articles 23 are those of the authors, and not Narcolepsy The Heysen 1350 necessarily those of the Friends of the Briony Ankor completed the Adam Chambers ran Heysen Trail. Heysen Trail over 66 days for the equivalent of an The Trailwalker magazine is Narcolepsy Australia. ultra marathon per available by subscription or online at heysentrail.asn.au/trailwalker day; the last 700kms with severe shin The Trailwalker magazine is published quarterly: splints. • Autumn (March) 11 • Winter (June) E2E Groups 2018 • Spring (September) • Summer (December) Highlights The Trailwalker magazine has a E2E11, E2E10 25 distribution of 1200, and an estimated and E2E12 The Salkantay Trek readership of approximately twice that report on their number. Josh West highlights of visited Machu Articles, reports and other submissions by members and other interested the walking Picchu via parties are welcome and should be season. the four-day emailed to the Trailwalker Editor at Salkantay Trek. [email protected] The submission deadline is usually the first Friday of the month prior to the 16 month of publication. Twilight Walks 28 ADVERTISING RATES (Ex. GST) Programme 1/8 page vertical $55 per issue Walking 1/4 page $80 per issue 1/2 page $135 per issue the Channel Islands Full Page $200 per issue Kevin Liddiard discovered the Flyer (supplied for insertion) 17 unique history of the Channel $240 per issue Congraulations E2E8 Islands. A commitment for 12 months advertising Celebrations as E2E8 reach (four issues) would attract 10% saving Parachilna Gorge and the end of Advertising specifications and their Heysen adventure. article submission guidelines are available upon request or by visiting heysentrail.asn.au/trailwalker

TRAILWALKER SUMMER 2018/19 3 About the Friends Council Members 2018/19 Patron Melanie Sjoberg President His Excellency the Honourable Suzanne Matthews Vice President Hieu Van Le AC Julian Monfries Secretary Honorary Members Stephen Salib-Brown Treasurer Sadie Leupold Robert Alcock The Friends of the Heysen Trail Thelma Anderson OAM Greg Boundy & Other Walking Trails Kath Palyga Colin Edwards Richard Schmitz OFFICE Dom Henschke Arthur Smith Carol Homewood Suite 212, 33 Pirie Street, Colin Edwards Jim McLean Adelaide SA 5000 Hugh Greenhill John Newland Phone (08) 8212 6299 Glen Dow Neil Nosworthy Web heysentrail.asn.au Barry Finn Robyn Quinn Email [email protected] Dean Killmier John Wilson John Wilson Open Monday to Friday David Beaton 10.30am – 2.30pm Sub-Committee Chairs Jack Marcelis Colin Edwards Trail Development Julian Monfries Neil Nosworthy Greening VOLUNTEERS Terry & Frances Gasson Peter Larsson Walking Simon Cameron Mondays David Rattray OAM Office David Rattray OAM Graham Loveday Helen Morgante Marketing & Hermann Schmidt Neil Nosworthy Membership Robert Alcock Elizabeth Rogers Julian Monfries Honorary Membership Deceased Honorary Members Tuesdays Terry Lavender OAM Chris Caspar Mid North Branch Jim Crinion Judy McAdam Garry Fieldhouse President Neville Southgate Chris Porter Kate Greenhill Vice President Doug Leane David Rattray OAM Sally Fieldhouse Secretary Fred Brooks David Roberts Hugh Greenhill Section 13 Leader Jamie Shephard Sam Nichols & Publicity Officers Trailwalker Editor Wednesdays Garry Fieldhouse Greg Martin Robin Bodycomb Editorial Sub-Committee Vicki Cahalan Council Meeting Dates Wednesday 12 December 2018 Robert Alcock Gilbert Downs Wednesday 16 January 2019 Philip Bell Wendy Fox Wednesday 20 February 2019 Robyn Coburn Jack Marcelis Malcolm Cockburn Thursdays Autumn 2019 Trailwalker Deadline: Colin Edwards Sally Heinrich Eve Buckley Friday 2 February 2019 Judy McAdam Jenny Cameron Articles, reports and other submissions are Liz Rogers Erica Gordon welcome from: Heather Thompson Julian Monfries • members walking on the Peter Wynen Judy Szekeres Heysen Trail or elsewhere; Website Editor Fridays • non-members walking the Heysen Trail; and Jeremy Carter Cathy Bowditch • other interested parties. Erika Guess Membership Secretary Julia McLachlan To submit an article, contact the Editor at David Rattray OAM Suzanne Mausolf [email protected] Contributors are urged to contact the Office Manager Relief Staff Editor to discuss their article prior to Dom Henschke Eve Buckley submission. Colin Edwards Trail Development Coordinator Dom Henschke Colin Edwards Graham Loveday Jack Marcelis Bookkeepers Robyn Quinn John Wilson Maria Newland Nimer Kaur

COVER PHOTO: End-to-End 10 by Hazel Bashford and Tony Brosnan (via drone) Trailwalker welcomes submissions from readers of photos suitable for the cover of the magazine

4 TRAILWALKER SUMMER 2018/19 President’s Report To everything there is a season

ondering a change in the on our website in the near future. The weather, my mind calls up ‘To policy introduction captures the essence: everything there is a season … Pturn, turn’ – a folk song by Pete Seeger The Friends of the Heysen Trail (FOHT) seems appropriate as the walk season undertakes its trail development, closes and we look toward beaches promotion, walk programme and and breezes for relief from heat and administration solely on the basis humidity. Of course, it means the more of dedication and goodwill from its relaxed early evening Twilight Walks member volunteers and supporters. programme has started. FOHT recognises that its members are enthusiastic about enjoying the trail It’s also the period when the Country and committed to giving back through Fire Service makes its risk assessment. our volunteer programme. FOHT Having regard to the effects of climate appreciates and values every member change, the CFS’s initial announcements that gives of their energy, time and declared that the fire danger season skill to assist the organisation. We also begins early in several districts. As I believe it is important to acknowledge draft this, there is a severe fire danger that commitment and recognise the warning for the Mt Lofty Ranges, and the ongoing goodwill among our members CFS has declared the fire ban start dates to contribute to walking and trail for Mt Lofty Ranges and Metro Adelaide development. to be 17 November 2018. Members are encouraged to check the CFS website End of Another Year for specific risks before venturing onto Toward the end of a year, it is always Melanie Sjoberg the trail. pleasing to outline a few of our successes. Volunteers are Priceless The Friends walk planning and volunteer We continue to expand our walk BBQ was held in mid-October. This is an programme, with E2E13 commencing important event to thank our dedicated at and E2E8 completing the volunteers and acknowledge everyone’s trail at Parachilna. It was exciting news ongoing commitment to maintaining that a few members from E2E8 enjoyed and promoting the trail, walking and the experience so much they have everything else necessary to keep the agreed to give back by leading a new Heysen Trail alive. E2E14 group in 2019. The Friends’ Council also had extensive Our Trail Development work has discussions this year about making sure been attracting new volunteers we recognise this important contribution through six separate E2E Maintenance by developing a Volunteer Support weekends away in the Mid-North; the Policy to provide consistent, transparent Cobbler Creek Shed now has regular guidelines for our various committees opening times for people to help with and volunteers. It will become available preparation; and Hallett and Hiskey Huts have been getting a bit of a makeover. Our members’ photography efforts have Friends’ office closure also escalated this year allowing our lease note that the Friends’ of the office closure, we will aim Facebook pages and 2019 Calendar to office will close for a holiday to despatch orders within five showcase the diversity of the Heysen. Pbreak at 2.30pm on Friday business days. And Simon Cameron – Walk Leader, 14 December 2018. It will re-open Section Leader and a former President – If you wish to purchase any Heysen at 10.30am on Tuesday 5 February has finalised a book that offers intriguing Trail merchandise as a Christmas 2019. stories about features along the Heysen gift, please don’t delay placing Trail that is a ‘must-have’ for walkers and Over the Christmas break the your order through the Friends’ enthusiasts. on-line shop continues to operate, online shop. Depending on the although with extended delivery destination, standard Australia Post I wish members, volunteers and dates. Normally we undertake delivery times can be up to four supporters all the best as the year draws to despatch orders within three business days. to a close and look forward to seeing business days. Over the period you out on the trail again in 2019. TRAILWALKER SUMMER 2018/19 5 Friends’ News Heysen Trail Closure Position Vacant Bookkeeper during Fire Season The Friends are seeking a volunteer to join the bookkeeping he trail crosses closed on days team. four different of Extreme or Country Fire Catastrophic Fire Job description: T Danger. Service Fire Ban • Manage the finances of a small Districts so the The closure office. closure dates vary information on • Maintain financial records – slightly. However, these dangerous invoices, receipts, sales sheets as we are now fire days is and petty cash. in December, all promoted • Pay accounts and manage the sections are now in through the weekly banking. Fire Danger Season. media via radio and television news • Perform the weekly balance. Consequently, the trail is now closed bulletins. In addition, access gates • Liaise with Treasurer and Office until 30 April 2019 (in the Flinders to forests and parks are locked and staff. Fire Ban District the trail will re-open have a sign informing people that Skills required: on 15 April 2019). Please check the the area is closed due to the fire • Have an understanding of CFS website for further updates as danger. general office procedures. these dates are subject to change You can find out more about parts • Use of various computer (www.cfs.sa.gov.au). of the trail that remain open most of systems including MYOB The trail closure times must be the year on the Fire Danger Season Account Right, Microsoft Excel obeyed at all times, as the viability section of our website: heysentrail. and Word. of the Heysen Trail is dependent asn.au/heysen-trail/fire-danger- • Download data from an on the continuing cooperation of season/ Electronic Cash Register and an private landholders. EFTPOS machine. Access to huts on the trail is also • Financial record keeping. Some sections of the trail are still restricted. A number of the huts • Organise payment of accounts. open, depending on local fire ban along the trail are on private • Manage weekly banking and conditions. During the Fire Danger property and, therefore, are not bank reconciliation. Season there is still the opportunity accessible to the public (including to walk along the trail in Forest walkers) during the Fire Danger Location and times: Reserves, National & Conservation Season. These are Marschalls Hut, The Friends office, Suite 212 Parks and along country roads. Huppatz Hut, Hiskeys Hut, Catninga Epworth Building, 33 Pirie Street, However, camping and the ability to Hut and Mayo Hut. Adelaide cook with a naked flame is restricted Fridays – 10am to 2.30pm Huts in National and Conservation or banned in many areas. Parks or Forest Reserves are For further information, contact Public reserves such as Forests and accessible during the Fire Danger the Friends’ office or John Wilson: National/Conservation Parks are Season, provided it is not a day Phone: 8356 9264 open to the public over the Fire of Extreme or Catastrophic Fire Email: [email protected] Danger Season, although they are Danger. Nominations for Honorary Membership 2019 ominations of members, To be considered for the 2019 AGM, Leadership roles, Maintenance including self-nominations, nominations should be received by Section Leader or Volunteer office. are invited to be submitted the end of January 2019. N Guidelines for Honorary to Julian Monfries, Chairman, Honorary Membership Sub- Guidelines for Honorary Membership (Exceptional): Committee of the Council, including Membership (Distinguished Service): Substantial and sustained name, address, contact numbers, (i) Normally at least 10 years of paid contributions to promotion, and qualifications. membership as an Ordinary, Family development and/or maintenance or Life Member; AND of the Heysen Trail, or the Recommendations from the Sub- (ii) at least six years of substantial Association other than as a paid Committee will then be considered voluntary contributions to the member or volunteer through, for by the Council, before being Association, especially as Council example, public service support, presented to the full membership at Chair on one or more of the various media support, etc. the next AGM. sub-committees, or in regular Walk 6 TRAILWALKER SUMMER 2018/19 A Personal Walking Brief of the Heysen Trail Heysen Highlights; Companion Guide to the Heysen Trail by Simon Cameron $39.95

n his companion guide to the Heysen Trail, Simon Cameron Ioffers a personal perspective, gathered over nearly 20 years of walking the Heysen Trail. “Over time I have gathered a multitude of stories that have enriched my experience of the Heysen Trail and I have tried to share them in this book.” Heysen Highlights is broken into 58 sections, based on the Friends’ End-to-End walk programme that carries groups from Cape Jervis to Parachilna Gorge over a series of 60-day walks. “I have combined and adjusted some of the shorter walks to provide 58 sections.” For each day’s walk there is a brief overview of what to expect and what to look Book cover of Simon Cameron’s Heysen Highlights, available on the out for. Friends’ website heysentrail.asn.au/shop/ The book begins with Cape Jervis The maps in the book will only the Deep Creek Conservation Park. so the format favours the south- orientate the reader with the Deep Creek is a true wilderness, to-north walker, but the short sections in the local region. Detailed to be treated with respect as well chapters are intended to be a ‘pre- Heysen maps are readily available as awe. A short detour to the walk briefing’ and not an ‘in hand’ and they are an essential part of Tapanappa lookout, at the end of walking guide. any walk because they provide the section, captures the natural the geographic framework for the majesty, and a glance to the east Simon reminds us that the Heysen experiences that you will gather provides a tantalising view of Trail runs through a diversity of along the way. “The ‘walk briefing’ Tunkalilla Beach – another jewel on South Australian terrain, varying offers my personal guide of points the Trail. from granite coast, bushland of interest for each section and I am reserves, plantation forest, marshy Heysen Highlights; Companion sure you will add your own.” meadows, broad acre farms, rolling Guide to the Heysen Trail by Simon hills, stone ridges and rocky creeks. In section one, for example, we Cameron (2018) $39.95 “The trail was designed to follow are told that the southern coast of the most scenic and challenging the is difficult to routes possible, providing see other than on the Heysen Trail memorable vistas and showcasing because there is very little vehicle iconic landscapes.” access. It is one of the great coastal walks with rugged cliffs, granite It also passes through a cultural bluffs, untamed ocean, tucked heritage spanning tens of thousands HEYSEN inlets, and wild beaches. All of this is of years of occupation and nearly offered with endless seascapes, and two centuries of colonial settlement. HIGHLIGHTS nature’s proudest displays of flora Even more unique is a geological and fauna. Dolphins cruise the surf, The perfect Companion Guide landscape that spans the origin of and sea birds ply the skies while animal life itself. “All of this offers a and Christmas gift kangaroos and echidnas share the wealth of discovery on every journey path. The luckiest walkers might see along the Heysen Trail and there are $39.95 migrating Southern Right Whales. no shortage of highlights along the plus postage way. Tapanappa, in section two, is Order on the reputed to mean ‘pathway’ or ‘stick Friends’ website “Inescapably the book reflects to the path,’ which is essential heysentrail.asn.au/shop my interests and many chance on this coastline. Any attempt to discoveries, and I know this book is move cross-country is dangerous. only the beginning of an ongoing A distressing number of rescues process of compilation, updates and and even fatalities have occurred in corrections.” TRAILWALKER SUMMER 2018/19 7 Friends’ News End-to-End Maintenance The importance of maintaining the trail This year Julie Testi, Pauleen Bond and Paul Bond decided to volunteer to help with the maintenance of the Heysen Trail. PHOTO: Julie Testi aving commenced the face in the coming years with End-to-End journey in E2E12, complete with the H2017, the three of us saw humming sounds from the fence first hand how important the wires and the summit of Mt maintenance of the trail is for all Bryan. The walk in with parts walkers’ enjoyment and safety. and equipment definitely gives The stiles have to be secure and a new appreciation for the safe to use and new ones may efforts spent to create and need to be built. The directional maintain the trail. arrows need to be readable and securely attached and foliage Walking with the leaders on may need to be cut back. One these weekends we had the of the ways to help – and this is chance to learn about the what we did – is to join in with history of the trail in that section maintenance weekends. and check out some of the Heysen huts, and meet hikers Most of the maintenance tasks on the trail. These weekends on the trail require only basic away are lots of fun. A dinner skills and on-the-job training is provided on the Saturday night provided, if necessary. Skills that is an opportunity to relax and may be required include using a chat with others involved with cordless drill, digging holes and the trail. helping carry gear to where it is (From left) Simon Cameron, Paul Bond needed. There are a wide variety of and Pauleen Bond with newly-installed Organised trail maintenance events tasks available for a range of skills markers near Burra are advertised on the walks calendar and capabilities. The leader of the so if you’re interested in helping, prepared for the trail upkeep. this is the place to check. We can maintenance weekend arranges Volunteers are needed here too. for the items, tools, etc. that are highly recommend becoming needed to complete the required This year there were several involved in the maintenance of work. These are collected from the weekend maintenance trips around the trail as it’s such a great feeling Friends’ Shed which is the general the Burra region. This gave us the giving something back, learning maintenance store of the Heysen chance to walk the Burra hills and about the Heysen Trail and having Trail where materials are kept and experience the winds that we will fun while you’re doing it.

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8 TRAILWALKER SUMMER 2018/19 Hiking the trail with Narcolepsy*

Briony Ankor, aka Plan B, completed the Heysen Trail over 66 days, included eight rest days, raising money for Narcolepsy Australia. Briony explains why she decided to walk the trail.

magine staying awake privileged with wonderful for 2-3 days and nights. friends and family who are IImagine the waves of always there for me. I am sleepiness that engulf you, otherwise healthy and live and the confusion and comfortably. Life hasn’t gone forgetfulness in your head the where I had planned, but the next day. You order a coffee good news is there’s always to get through your first Plan B! meeting of the day, but you So what was I going to do can still feel the exhaustion with my new-found strength simmering just below the of will? I wanted to do caffeine-induced buzz. This is something that would prove what narcolepsy can feel like to myself that I was stronger everyday, regardless of the than the narcolepsy. I wanted amount of sleep. Medication to do something big. I wanted for narcolepsy is somewhat to find my identity beyond like your morning coffee. work and career. I was diagnosed with I wanted to hike the 1200kms narcolepsy four years ago. It of the Heysen Trail. had come on quite quickly; suddenly I just couldn’t stay So, I did! I made the decision awake, I couldn’t concentrate, to hike the trail in late March I couldn’t focus on my work this year. The next few months and I started getting quite were a blur of organising and forgetful. I was half way preparation. Some of my through my PhD studies at the gear needed to be upgraded; time, which I had to abandon I cooked and dehydrated to move to part time casual about 60 meals; shopped for work. It was a difficult time. 60+ breakfasts and lunches; Briony on the trail ... “the good news is My work and career had always packed and labelled resupply boxes; there’s always Plan B” been a big part of my identity and and planned a rough itinerary. it took a while to accept such a big PHOTOS: Briony Ankor I decided to walk the trail as a change in my beliefs about myself. * is a chronic Narcolepsy fundraiser for Narcolepsy Australia, I quickly learned that stress, neurological autoimmune disease affecting the sleep centre of the a grass roots organisation that works negative thoughts and emotions brain. The symptoms and level towards improving the treatment exacerbated my symptoms. So I of severity varies from person to options available in Australia, and started trying to focus more on the person. It affects the ability to work, manages a great support network positive aspects of my life. I’m very to socialise and to live a full life. Continued next page ... TRAILWALKER SUMMER 2018/19 9 Briony is all smiles as she reaches Parachilna Gorge and the end of her 66-day hike

with narcolepsy, but the freedom to go at my own pace, stop whenever I wanted and get really physically exhausted along the way, meant that the impacts of narcolepsy were easier to ignore. I finished at Parachilna Gorge on the Saturday of the October long weekend, walking through a guard of honour of my friends and family. We stayed together at Alpana Station for the weekend, sharing good food, bad ukulele playing and many stories. An ideal finish to a wonderful journey and a perfect Hiking with Narcolepsy (cont.) buffer before heading back to the the simplicity and calm that I felt real world. for people with the condition. I also every day. decided that I would video a lot of my walk and uploaded a couple he trail was everything that I You can view pictures from Briony of pre-walk videos to YouTube. As had hoped for. I loved going Ankor’s trek on Facebook and a natural introvert this was quite a Tthrough the broad range of Instagram @PlanBHiker, and you challenge! South Australian landscapes: the can see her videos on YouTube rugged coastline, the lush Adelaide (Plan B Hiker). If you would like to And then before I knew it, I was on Hills, the flat plains and gnarly donate to Narcolepsy Australia or the trail. I started at Cape Jervis in Flinders. I cursed the hills north read more about the condition, the last week of July. The weather of Burra as I tackled them for the see https://chuffed.org/project/ was cold, wet and windy for the first second time this year, and I stood planbhiker 3-4 weeks, yet I have no stories of with my mouth agape as I took in dramas and distress, no epic yarns the beauty of the northern gorges. of lament or tales of woe. I simply The campsites and tanks were felt like I had come home. I felt always a welcome sight and the huts Discounts content. Yes, I had some issues with were the most wonderful havens to Members shoes, an old failing sleeping mat, of warmth and security against the and windy days that sapped every wind and rain. The generosity of Discounts are available to ounce of energy from my body. But, the people I met and the bliss of members at retail outlets that essentially, I was happy! I rescued living in the moment are the things support the Friends of the Heysen three sheep and a goat, I cherished I have spoken most about upon my Trail. the beautiful sunrises and pre-dawn return. I love the connections I made For the full list of discounts go to: night hikes, embraced the birdsong with others on the trail and in the https://heysentrail.asn.au/friends/ as the soundtrack to my journey, towns – everyone is always up for a discounts-available-to-members and existed in the moment, loving chat! Some days I really struggled

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10 TRAILWALKER SUMMER 2018/19

End-to-End 11 2018 Season Highlights Vas Dolman looks back on the highlights of this year’s walk season for End-to-End 11.

ver the six months of our walking season the Heysen OTrail has taken us into, along, through and over many stunning natural features. The vistas and the panoramic views took many a breath away, and saw cameras clicking furiously trying to capture the moment. Members who took these memorable photos have graciously shared them on our Facebook page and have, therefore, created a lasting record of our adventures together. Summer’s unconditioned legs were challenged on our first walks in May, as we started our season in the beautiful Mt Crawford forest. Our leader John Babister prepared Keeping track of End-to-End groups us with words of encouragement and assurances that our climbs were mere undulations. Needless N to say, we were grateful for the RANGES By October E2E9 Parachilna Gorge flatter grazing lands and the Warren Blinman Parachilna Conservation Park. had reached Warren Gorge, poised to In June and July we were blessed complete the trail with fabulous weather as we hiked next year. FLINDERS across the Barossa. The rows of Hawker Mt.Arden exquisite vineyards, the historic Heysen Trail towns, the rocky Barossa Ranges E2E10 are at Mt Zion Port Quorn Augusta 1,200km gave us the ideal opportunity to beyond Bowman Mt.Brown experience this famous region from Park. Wilmington adventure hike Iron Knob the ground up. Andrew’s eagle eye Melrose Wirrabara Peterborough as Tail End Charlie and Marlene’s E2E11 have Whyalla Jamestown SOUTH trusty head counts made sure reached Worlds Port Pirie Hallett Mt.Bryan no one wandered away into the End short of Burra. Crystal numerous wineries dotted along Spencer Brook Spalding AUSTRALIA Burra the trail. Gulf Clare Wallaroo By end October Kadina Morgan In August the vineyards were Moonta E2E12 are at Cudlee Port Wakefield replaced with rolling pastures Creek.

Maitland RANGES Mallala Blanchetown and farmlands. Kapunda with its Nurioopta Tanunda Angaston Swan Reach tall grain silos, sheep yards and Gulf Gawler quintessential Australian countryside E2E13 ended their St LOFTY Mannum was quite different to what we’d walking season at ADELAIDE Mt. Lofty Hahndorf Vincent Mylor Murray Bridge experienced in the previous months. Mount Compass. Mt Barker

Aldinga Beach MOUNT Mt. Magnificent A highlight was the climb to the Mount Compass summit of Peters Hill revealing Cape Yankalilla E2E14 will assemble Jervis Goolwa amazing views. Along the way it at Cape Jervis to Kingscote Victor Harbor Parndana Penneshaw was magical to climb over a stile start the Heysen into private farmland, to walk Trail in May 2019. Southern Ocean

Continued next page ... Bo a TRAILWALKER SUMMER 2018/19 11 End-to-End Awards ongratulations to the following walkers who Creceived End-to-End awards for completing the trail over the period May to October 2018. Simon Pikusa Stuart Holley Denise Holley Judy Klobas Michael Klobas Bill Ovenden Amanda Ovenden Elizabeth Perry Andrew Bishop E2E 11 Highlights (cont.) Maybe this climb at World’s End Rob Wilson wasn’t a highlight for all E2E11 Toni Chaplin through freshly sprouted grain walkers? Neil Mills crops, or fields accommodating PHOTOS: Martin Chapman cows with their calves, or ewes with Graham Wakeling their lambs. The dams were full and our weekends away. Already a Hazel Cochrane we saw incredible deeply eroded social crowd, this added another Peter Cochrane creek beds that looked like natural element to our already cohesive, Ben Willis sculptures embedded into the friendly group. We’ve always shared Glenn Paterson Jones landscape. many interesting conversations, Josh West a beverage or two and nibbles at Briony Ankor Marrabel and the Gilbert Valley led the end of our hikes, but to camp to the superb Tothill Ranges. We together, share meals, engage marvelled at the rocky outcrops, the in theme nights and dress ups, Reporting on gnarly wooded areas and the hilltop brought another element of fun and the condition of views. This natural environment amusement. provides ideal habitat for wildlife and birdlife. I know everyone in our E2E11 the Heysen Trail group would agree that none of Friends of the Heysen Trail depend It is a credit to the Friends and this amazing experience would be on walkers for information and to individual landholders for the anywhere near as enjoyable, nor as comment on the condition of the restoration of the huts we saw along safe, if it weren’t for our dedicated trail, and any safety concerns. the way. Marschall’s and Huppatz leaders and trusty backup team. A Huts are rustic and inviting. They sincere thank you to John, Helen, Please email reports on trail provided an ideal setting to rest for Dom, Marlene, Andrew and Ross conditions to heysentrail@ lunch and take in the views. I am for all the work you do to make heysentrail.asn.au or phone the sure many of us were imagining how these hikes happen. Also to all the Friends’ office on 8212 6299. The special it would be to stay in them like-minded E2E11 members who Friends’ office will forward the overnight. contribute to making this group information to the Trail Development Coordinator for action. This period was also the start of exceptional – don’t change. MT BROWN ACCOMMODATION Indulge yourself on the trail... Stay at ‘The Carriage’ at Catninga

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12 TRAILWALKER SUMMER 2018/19 End-to-End 10 ODE TO THE LEADERS Kevin Benson has penned this ode to his walk leaders and fellow trekkers in End-to-End 10 who by ODEthe end TO of theTHE 2018 LEADERS walk season had reached Mt Zion. ENDTOEND 10 WeW assemblede assembled at Cape at Cape Jervis Jervis 4 years 4 years ago, ago, The bus arrivedarrived asas plannedplanned as as you you know, know, We were notnot aware aware of of where where to to begin, begin, PHOTO: Hazel Bashford and Tony Brosnan (via drone) We set offoff withwith a a nervous nervous grin grin..

Our intrepidintrepid leaders leaders,, Carol Carol and and Judy, Judy, lead lead the the way, way, Past Land’s EndEnd and Cuttlefish Bay, Bay, Assisted byby David,David, Estoban Estoban and and Michael, Michael, We trekked to Cobblers for our first Heysen cycle. We trekked to Cobblers for our first Heysen cycle.

But let’slet’s notnot forgetforget the the other other assistants assistants,, Danny, Hazel, Rob, Toni,Toni, KarenKaren forfor their their adherents, adherents, Always ready toto lend lend a a hand, hand, Their help forged this merry band. Their help forged this merry band. The weekend routroutineine has has often often been been repeated, repeated, Much toof ourour energy energy levels levels depleted depleted, But our leaders have been persistent, But our leaders have been persistent, Despite the weather being resistant. Despite the weather being resistant. Who cancan forgetforget Tunkalilla, Tunkalilla, Balquhidder, Balquhidder, Lofty Lofty and and Tanunda, Tanunda, Not toto mention mention Hupptat Hupptatz,z, Peters Peters Hill Hill and and Kapunda, Kapunda, But the one that needed supreme leadership, WButindy the Mount one that Bryan needed cemented supreme our partnership. leadership, Windy Mount Bryan cemented our partnership. Thanks to thethe leadersleaders for for getting getting us us to to800 800 kilometres. kilometres. Otherwise, we might have gone to the theatres. Otherwise, we might have gone to the theatres. Thanks for the reckies, dinners and the buses, WeThanks couldn’t for the have reckies, done itdinners without and all the the pluses. buses, We couldn’t have done it without all the pluses. Onward wewe struggle struggle to to Parachilna, Parachilna, Every step, closer to our enigma, ThanksEvery step, heaps closer for what to our you enigma, have done, EndtoEndThanks heaps 10 has for beenwhat goodyou havefriends done, and a lot of fun. End-to-End 10 has been good friends and a lot of fun.

TRAILWALKER SUMMER 2018/19 13 Friday, October 19, 2018 © – Advertisement – End-to-End 12 Calling on your The Dirty Dozen PR & Marketing Tim Hisgrove explains how, in its second year, E2E12 has skills developed and progressed its own identity. he Friends’ Marketing & PHOTO: Paul Bond Membership Committee is t is hard to spirit of getting Tlooking for new members. believe we have down to it, Are you interested in helping us completed toughing out promote the Heysen Trail and I grow the Friends’ membership two years in our any situation, six-year Heysen wearing badges base? Trail adventure. We of honour for We’re looking for members with know the distances earthly mishaps the necessary skills and expertise we cover next year that occasionally to help us: will be significantly happen, pitching • promote the profile of the increased over the in and helping Heysen Trail and the role of the year just gone, but out and leaving Friends, that means more no one behind. fun times to share From that spirit • grow the Friends membership, together. a recognition and award was • secure new sponsorship. Whenever I think Adam Matthews, End-to-End 12’s instigated, being of the Friends and ‘The Dirty Dozen For more details please contact E2E12 my thoughts shepherd, at Shepherds Lookout Helen Morgante, chair of the near Sanderston Gorge Hero Award’. are immediately This award Marketing & Membership drawn to the man at the top, the acknowledges exceptional efforts Committee, by emailing Leader of all Leaders, our Shepherd, over and above the norm from [email protected] Adam Matthews. His cheerful our walkers. So far both winners persona radiates the confidence in have overcome major operations Maintenance weekends this year, his role, underpinned by meticulous to return to walking with the group cooking the BBQ at the Walk organisation and that, in no small in amazingly abbreviated time Leaders’ meeting, and looking to part, is due to Suzanne his wife. frames, astounding their medical lead some walks in 2019. experts. Next year we will be Similarly oozing friendliness and We are a great cross section officially a social group, as the confidence, Adam’s team of walk of people, with a multitude of Social Committee was formed in the leaders including James, Kara, backgrounds and experiences. car park at the end of Leanne, Philip, Robin, Sam, Mark We have joined in a common our last walk for the season. and Gary are all top notch. We goal of walking the Heysen Trail; also have Simon Cameron and The spirit developed in our group, being amazed by our journey and other Friends’ nobility join us on led by Adam and his enthusiastic how it varies in landscape and occasions. After a year finding leaders, has morphed to the gradient; and never disappointed our feet, we have progressed and wider Friends of the Heysen Trail. in its beauty. We are carried in this developed our identity – The Dirty An example is that some of our journey by Adam, our Shepherd of Dozen. With that materialised the walkers have got involved in Trail the Dirty Dozen.

TRAILWALKER SUMMER 2018/19 15 2018/2019 Wednesday Twilight Walks Programme For more details and registration check out the Walk Programme on heysen.asn.au

DECEMBER JANUARY FEBRUARY MARCH 5 2 6 6 Daniel & Melanie Caroline Prescott Rosemary Hayward John Babister O’Halloran Hill Chambers Gully SE Parklands Norton Summit

12 9 13 13 Julie Testi Jon Holbrook Daniel & Melanie Julian Monfries Ansteys Hills Botanic Park Port Noarlunga Semaphore Main St. Historical Walk 19 16 20 20 Rosemary Hayward David Bowey Michael Middleton TBA West Beach Mitcham Beach Walk

26 23 27 27 No scheduled walk Robyn Quinn Robyn Quinn Steve Clift Coromandel/ Kingston Park Ambers Gully Blackwood

30 Summer Twilight Walks are held on a Wednesday Peter Clark evening at 6.00pm. They take 1.5 to 2 hours, are close to Adelaide and followed by a meal, if you wish. Anyone Wild Dog Glen undertaking these walks may have only a modest degree of physical fitness. Here’s a sample of just a few of our Wednesday Twilight walks. O’Halloran Hill Wednesday 5 December, 2018 Walk Leaders Daniel Jardine and Melanie Sjoberg, explore tracks through the O’Halloran Hill Conservation Park before it is ‘renovated’ into the recently-proclaimed Glenthorne National Park. A few undulations giving views across the city and coast; plenty of birds but perhaps more weeds than wildflowers. Wandering for approximately 5-6kms, up to 2 hours. Chambers Gully Wednesday 2 January, 2019 Starting from Chambers Gully carpark on Waterfall Gully Road, Caroline Prescott will lead you through the cool sanctuary of Chambers Gully. Watch out for cockatoos, butterflies, koalas and bandicoots as we follow the track fringed with ferns. A fairly steep climb takes you to the ridge, which provides splendid views of the city and coast. Semaphore Main Street Historic Walk Wednesday 13 March, 2019 Join Julian Monfries for a walk along Semaphore Road’s history, past the Timeball Tower, the oldest working carousel in the southern hemisphere, the glorious 1920s Palais bathing pavilion (now the Semaphore Palais Hotel) and the Ozone Theatre building. The walk to be followed by a meal at one of the local eating houses. 16 TRAILWALKER SUMMER 2018/19 2018/2019 Wednesday Twilight Walks Programme

Congratulations End-to-End 8 PHOTOS: Cathy Bowditch n 17 August E2E8 completed their six-year epic journey at Parachilna Gorge. Congratuations to the following Owalkers who were presented with their E2E awards for completing the trail with E2E8. Adele Andrews Steve Joyce lan Davis Vicki Cahalan Alan Harton In addition, these walkers from Andrea Gillin E2E8 completed the trail for the Anne Kirk second time: Audrey Sclanders Adam Matthews Carolyn Clutterbuck Catherine Joyce Cathy Bowditch Chris Allen Cherete Harton Lucy Allen Faye Joyce Michael Joyce Frank Pivato Samantha McCarty Gary McCarty John Babister Geoff Kay Robin Sharland Irena Skrzypczak The following walkers completed Julia McLachlan most of the trail with E2E8 but Karin Agostino finished their final walk a few weeks Lesley Rawlings later. Margaret Fletcher Maria Bootle Mark Fletcher Jennifer McKay Mark Waters Marlene Plueckhahn What do you pack Michael Agostino in your lunchbox? Michael Guest Trailwalker is keen to publish hints on what Miranda Waters hikers pack to eat on the Heysen Trail. If you Nadia Pivato have some interesting temptations that you pack Paul Calahan in your backpack, please let us know. Email the Editor on [email protected] Roman Skrzypczak TRAILWALKER SUMMER 2018/19 17 nspiration OUTDOORS A Tale of Two Trips Lewis Tops To Lake Sumner Alan Davis writes of a tramping trip earlier in the year in the Lake Sumner National Park on New Zealand’s South Island. PHOTOS: John Hillard and Alan Davis he usual careful planning went into our New Zealand walk last summer. TWith John Hillard we settled on the ambitious goal of a 13-day full traverse from the Lewis Tops through to Arthur’s Pass in the South Island. One thing was apparent early. Considering the terrain, a food drop was deemed a necessity and, having some familiarity with the Lake Sumner region, leaving it hidden on the flats near Pussy Stream, above the Hope River, seemed the obvious spot. This involved a preliminary two-day walk. That goal completed, an early afternoon bus from Christchurch brought us several hours later to the southern end of the St James Walkway near Lewis Pass. Just a few minutes from here a simple sign on the southern side of the main highway marks the start of the 600 metre climb up through the forest to the Lewis Tops. At the tree line a poled route leads to a large cairn. Continuing along the Tops for an hour we eventually set up camp by a large tarn around 7.30pm. Waking in the morning shrouded in mist certainly wasn’t part of the plan, but we decided to head off anyway suspecting it would burn off when the sun rose. The Tops are simply stunning; a beautiful high alpine area of rolling tussock and snowgrass-covered hillocks. Fortunately, the early gloom had lifted as good visibility is a necessity for the next stage of the trip. Crossing a saddle on the main range leaves a final high sidle across steep scree leading to Brass Monkey Bivvy. We’d hoped to reach here by noon but it had been a particularly tough few hours so with the time closer to 1.30pm the decision was made to spend the night. John Hillard (above) descending days. The weather improved markedly to Doubtful River and camping The bivvy door violently blown open at as we dropped below the basin into by Lake Sumner 5.30am. It was better than any alarm. the Duchess headwaters. This is a Freezing winds and scudding cloud had tightly confined little valley, the steep, us debating staying put, but the forecast forest-covered hillsides coming right was for rain later in the afternoon and down to the water’s edge. Hour after if Duchess Stream flooded there was hour we slogged our way downstream, a real chance of being stuck there for Continued next page ...

TRAILWALKER SUMMER 2018/19 19 Lewis Tops (cont.) completely delaminated alternating between wading in the and, despite a temporary creek with ventures up into the repair job with glue and forest looking for old deer trails. duct tape, it was obvious Around 2.00pm, after a final sidle his trip was finished. We away from the stream, we dropped decided I would continue onto a marked track and about an on as planned while John hour later arrived at Nina Hut. would make his way out to On cue the predicted rain came, the Lewis Pass Highway and but by morning the worst of it had return to Christchurch. gone. Just above the hut a marked Despite losing John, I set off but, at times, vague route lead next morning with plenty of into the forest climbing steadily optimism. The sun was still then dramatically up to the tree shining, the upper Hope line before a final saunter through Valley was very beautiful tall tussocks onto Devilskin Saddle. and the walking mostly was There’s a wonderful little two-man on easy river flats. We’d bivvy here that begged ‘stay the chosen the climb up from night’, but the head defied the heart just before Hope Pass as and said ‘no’. Dropping back into the quickest route onto the forest all the elevation gained Nelson Tops, but what the in the morning’s climb was lost map didn’t show was the on the descent down to Doubtful mountainside here was River. Around 5.00pm we crossed covered in thick scrub. It to the broad river flats and minutes was a good three hours later arrived at the tiny Dept. of before I gained the upper Conservation (DOC) hut where slopes and the snowgrass- some years ago I’d shared a wild covered Tops. Not with any and woolly night with an amiable time to spare. A rumble little mouse. A hunter had taken up of thunder signalled the residence so we pitched camp close weather was changing and by, an ideal spot despite the sand quickly throwing up the flies. tent, I dashed off to fill all Alan Davis (top) climbing up to Lewis e’d decided to split the my water bottles, getting back just Tops and John Hillard having a break crossing of Doubtful in time as down it came. before tackling Lucretia Ridge WRange into two shortish A day and two nights followed days. A few kilometres upstream before the rain finally began to spend a night in a noisy hut. Literally from the hut a marked route ease. Though the weather was far metres from the Lodge a lovely re-enters the forest, climbing above from perfect I made the decision on track re-entered the forest climbing and away from the Kedron River. the second morning to have a crack up over the range before dropping Hidden away here is the tiny Lake at crossing the Tops. But after more down to Three Mile Stream after Man Bivvy, positioned perfectly to than four hours fighting against about four hours. Set back in the catch the afternoon sun, a great the steep terrain in deteriorating forest just above the broad river place to spend a long, warm, lazy conditions, I had to concede it flats is a small DOC hut that I had to afternoon. was becoming too dangerous to myself. Leaving the bivvy, we crossed continue. So, regrettably, I retraced Rain will remain my memory of the Doubtful Range and headed back my steps before setting up camp for last two days. Arriving at Hope into the forest. The drop off into a third and final night on the Tops. Kiwi Lodge around 11.30am next Pussy Stream is along an amazing At least the weather had improved morning was a blessing as the knife-edge bushed spur, the final for the return to Top Hope Hut the heavens had really opened up. After descent requiring careful hand-over- following day. a long lunch it was time to face the hand clambering down. After lunch After poring over the maps, next music again and mid-afternoon we retrieved our food drop and morning I set off with a new agenda Hope Halfway Hut was reached headed up valley to Top Hope Hut. and reached Hope Kiwi Lodge where I decided to camp despite The first six days had gone exactly around noon. This is one of the the weather. Heavy rain all night as planned. The weather overall major overnight stops for those meant a sodden final morning had been kind, we had this tidy doing the Harpers Pass Track, a trudge out to the Lewis Pass little hut to ourselves and were famous old tramping route that Highway. A truck driver took pity restocked ready for the next links Lewis and Arthurs Pass. on me after hitching for only 20 week. Then disaster struck when Unfortunately, it is now part of the minutes and, around 3.00pm, I was John noticed his new boots had Te Aroha Trail and I had no desire to back at our motel in Christchurch. 20 TRAILWALKER SUMMER 2018/19 Volunteer Profile: Colin Edwards

How long have you been involved with the Friends? remembered the tea towels? No, but what about the food and Serious walking started for me in drinks! Not far to go back if you 1985 with Thorfoot Walkers run say ‘180 kilometres’ quickly. We by Paddy Pallin and organised by were expected at 6pm and made Neville Southgate, then president it by 10 o’clock and nobody was of the Friends of the Heysen allowed to say anything, including Trail. It didn’t take long before my wife. I joined the Friends and quickly became involved in the walking What’s the funniest moment on programme, first as a participant the Trail? and then as a member of the There was the day at Deep Walks Committee. Creek. Leading a group who What changes have you seen in were determined not to get wet your time as a Friend? feet or dirty boots, we came to a small creek and the dilly-dallying In those early days – perhaps over crossing it drove me mad. In around 1986 – the Friends were frustration I decided to show that primarily a trail builder and the log across the creek was okay maintainer. With the completion to step on. One step on, the log of the trail, and the demand for sank and I was up to my backside work on the trail, walking became standing in water and thick yellow more to the fore. This created mud. A lot of false sympathy was a degree of conflict within the followed by roaring laughter. organisation as many considered Nepal, Thailand, to name a few, but that our brief was to be involved I always come back to the Flinders What’s the most memorable event purely in building and maintaining. which I find so different, unique, or day for you on the Trail? But progress was not to be denied picturesque and always challenging. After 30 years or so with the Friends, and the Friends now are a major Briefly getting misplaced when I have been involved in the Walking player in walking, maintaining, leading a group in the Flinders was Committee, office volunteer for building and promoting the trail. more sobering than getting off-track in Tasmania or the High Plains. many years, past president and for What are some activities in which the last eight or nine years running you’ve volunteered as a Friend? What’s one of the most memorable the Maintenance Committee. walks you’ve made on the Heysen? All have given me mostly good Gradually I found myself leading memories. Walking in the Flinders day walks – Deep Creek, the Lofties The most memorable events and Tasmania stand out for me. If and the Mid-North – progressing from these hundreds of walks are you’re staying at Melrose make sure to longer events in the Flinders, generally not the successes but the to pause for a bite to eat at Stone Innes National Park, Deep Creek catastrophes, like getting a group Hut. But for the ultimate fun don’t Conservation Park and, further afield lost or driving all the way to Innes forget the joys of slogging away at to the Blue Mountains in NSW and and forgetting the food for the 20 erecting post holes and fixing stiles, Tasmania. Over the years I have or so walkers. On that occasion rain or shine, while maintaining the walked the High Plains, Tasmania, we had driven almost there when trail. Larapinta, Bibbulman, Kokoda, my wife casually asked if I had

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TRAILWALKER SUMMER 2018/19 21 Planting trees along the trail or a few reasons, it has been We also removed quiet on the greening front all of the tree for the last few months, which guards and F stakes from our is probably as well given the dry conditions that have prevailed. plantings on the ridge above However, it is worth reporting on Point Pass; tough work in a our trip to the Mid-North. howling gale. There has been a Grand tour of Mid-North plantings high survival rate – maybe 75 per cent – although this year’s rainfall We visited Hiskey’s Hut near has limited growth. It is worth Georgetown where we gathered noting, however, that the farmer gum nut seeds from the eucalypts. has erected a new fence which We now have to ready the seeds will protect the trees from stock to plant around the hut with the grazing. aim of providing protection from prevailing winds. Future projects Rosalind Miles dwarfed by one of our Investigations of planting trees It is worth noting that the wire trees on the Bundaleer Channel near along a section of the trail between netting guards that we erected at Spalding Coolawang Creek and Parsons Hiskey’s have been effective and Beach at Waitpinga have not these trees are now making good Words & Photo: Neil Nosworthy progressed and remain on the ‘to progress. Our hard work planting trees near do’ list as a project for 2019. Perhaps our best results have been Dutton’s Trough at Worlds End achieved at our plantations along continues to be a struggle, but life If you have any ideas for improving the Bundaleer Channel at Railway outside Goyder’s Line was always the environment along the Heysen Dam Road, east of Spalding. In going to be tough. Nevertheless, Trail, and not just planting trees, my opinion, our trees have almost our trees are discernible albeit most please contact Neil Nosworthy on become a forest, but I may be a will not provide much shade for a [email protected] little biased. weary walker. Why Not Walk a Trail in Welcome New Zealand this Summer? New Members he President and the Council would like to extend a warm welcome to the following 33 members

Twho have joined the Friends since the last edition of Trailwalker, and urge them to become involved in the voluntary, walking and social aspects of the association.

Jeanette Bishop Geoffrey Lawson

Leigh Dalwood Mark William Lawson Bev Dreyer Jonathan Lee Pete Dreyer Rod Marriott

rn Louise Dunn Jackie Menzies

b u

e Nadia Ezhari Cathy Preston

Pamela Fidler Terri Ross-Marriott Rou t Wayne Fidler Gloria Sarker The Great Walks—Milford, Kepler, Routeburn, Rakiura, Michael Forrest Rosalyn Schmidtke or...one day walking trails in the south of the South Island Daniel Fosdike Marilyn Tregilas from your accommodation base, or...bike a trail. Peter Fosdike Donna Triggs We arrange transport (from Dunedin), food, accommodation Timothy Fosdike Fred van der Heiden and some experienced leaders who give ‘low key’ assistance— you turn up with your hiking gear. John Hallifax Petra van der Heiden Peter Holt Kathryn Warhurst D Humphris Steven Weinert for all the info visit - Mark Johnson Belinda Wheeley-Lea Lisa Lavan 22 TRAILWALKER SUMMER 2018/19 The Heysen 1350 Running 75kms a day ‘never sounded easy’ Adam Chambers reflects on completing The Heysen 1350: a 1350km on-foot challenge from Cape Jervis to Yankaninna Station in the northern Flinders Ranges.

unning an ultra-marathon a resilience we are trying to instil in friends who rallied behind the cause day for 19 days straight never the kids throughout an Operation and showed me their enthusiasm. sounded easy. But it was Flinders exercise. I evaluated each R At the end of the day, we raised tough in ways I hadn’t imagined. situation and searched for a solution over $8,000 for the Operation that still allowed me to reach my Flinders Foundation to continue The first week or so was ultimate goal of raising funds so that its valuable work with at-risk youth tremendously cold and windy. I Op Flinders could reach out to more in South Australia. It will pay for shivered through the days and youth. most of the nights, as did the half of a team participating in the support crew. Running 75kms per I realised I had to take a few days programme. It all feels worth it day seemed to pass slowly, and the off when my support crew needed knowing we achieved that. biggest challenge was overcoming to help me to walk even a few Find out more or make a the mental hurdle to just keep hundred metres around camp. contribution to Operation Flinders going. I focussed on small goals, But not wanting to give up on my at www.rambleon.co/heysen1350 concentrating on making it to the ambitions, I came up with next rendezvous point with the a plan to ensure I arrived at support vehicles, rather than what Yankaninna. KENNARDS HIRE lay ahead in the grand scheme of it MAKES YOUR JOB EASY! all. The last half of the event wasn’t easy. I reported pain My plans went out of the window ratings of 8-9 out of 10 in my at about the 700km mark when I shins at each meeting point, started suffering severe shin pain but the privilege of seeing (called ‘shin splints’) due to tracking some of South Australia’s in heavy, clay-like mud. I was told I most beautiful landscapes needed 4-6 weeks recovery time off kept me moving forward. my feet. But, not willing to give up on the mission, I continued to run The 19-day event took over 18 months training and on the injury for the next three days; Kennards Hire is a family owned company that has grown preparation, and a team of into one of Australia’s leading hire companies. We have reluctantly submitting to a short been in the hire industry for over 60 years. break of a few days; then continuing four dedicated volunteers to bring it all to a reality, We have a wide range of equipment which is reliable and at walking pace until finally running regularly serviced. Drop into one of our hire centres today along with unending levels and let the guys help you choose the right equipment for into Yankaninna Base Camp, the your next job. end point to the challenge. of support from family and friends. I couldn’t have done It reminded me of all the lessons it without the support of 135 135 of self-belief, perseverance and the crew, and my family and www.kennards.com.au TRAILWALKER SUMMER 2018/19 23 Willunga Basin Trail Sands Conservation Park and part Zara Lupton is secretary of the Willunga Basin Trail Inc. of . It also uses many unmade road reserves that provide magine a walk along the coast are plenty of facilities in the small the vital links for such an extensive between Moana and Sellicks, settlements, in the coastal suburbs trail. These road reserves are in the Irambling the escarpment of and across the McLaren Vale care of the Onkaparinga Council, the Southern Mt Lofty Ranges winemaking area. which has included the Willunga from Kangarilla to the sea and Basin Trail in its Trails & Cycling The Willunga Basin Trail Inc. was clambering around the hills south of Strategic Management Plan and formed from a group that have been the Onkaparinga River as it wends has been active in clearing woody walking throughout the Basin and its way through the gorge. These weeds such as olives from some of neighbouring regions, both before tempters form the bounds of the these reserves. Willunga Basin. and since incorporation in 2016. Our group is supported by the local (Friends of the Heysen Trail The Willunga Basin Trail was Onkaparinga Council in our aim members will be able to sample envisioned as a way to define the to establish the Trail by marking Trailwalkers along the Willunga Basin; the 123km route encircles existing sections and creating a Basin Trail as part of our 2019 walk and traverses the basin linking the natural surface path where no path, programme.) Onkaparinga River National Park track or road exists. and layers of the escarpment behind McLaren Flat. The route covers Most of the route beach, cliff, bush and forest with is on public land ascents and descents, and frequent with only two short sweeping views across pastoral private links. It land and vineyards. It offers walkers travels through varied and challenging walks. the Onkaparinga Many parts of the route are already River National popular. The Trail can be walked Park, the Aldinga as eleven half-day walks, a five-day Scrub Conservation hike, or in any combination. There Park, the Moana

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Friends of the Heysen Trail receive 10% discount Adventurous Women Phone: 1300 388 419 [email protected] www.adventurouswomen.com.au Views of the Onkaparinga River from the Willunga Adventurouswomen Basin Trail 24 TRAILWALKER SUMMER 2018/19 Four days trekking the Salkantay Trek During a recent whirlwind trip through South America, Josh West visited Machu Picchu in Peru via the breathtaking four-day Salkantay Trek.

DAY 1. he journey began in the middle of the night, in a minivan full of Tstrangers, making our way from Cusco to the foothills of Salkantay Mountain. Other than becoming acquainted with our fellow hikers, our only other task was to hike the short return trek to a nearby blue lagoon underneath the majestic Humantay Mountain. Easy, right? Nope. I had forgotten one crucial detail; we were already at 3,912 metres, and the group had to clamber up to 4,250 metres to reach the lake. Our lungs felt like they were ready to burst and our rasping breaths increased in desperation with every step. When we finally made it to the top, the spectacular view made the gasping and spluttering worthwhile. The crystal clear lagoon glimmered in front of the imposing snow-capped peak. Postcard- ready scenes were already flowing and one thing was immediately evident; I would need more SD cards. We made our way back down to our lodgings for the night; small huts lined up beneath a steep rocky path leading toward tomorrow’s climax; a base camp at Salkantay Mountain. Day 2 had a lot to live up to.

DAY 2. he second day of the trek promised to be the definition of diversity. TWe’d start with breakfast at 4,000 metres in a grass-filled valley, hike up to 4,630 metres to a barren rocky outcrop, then work our way down to a jungle canopy 22kms later. With beanies, scarves, jackets and gloves attempting to keep us warm, the group set off up the first climb. It was unfathomably cold and we were Continued next page ...

(From top) Day one’s sleeping huts lined up beneath the imposing Salkantay Mountain; the crytal clear lagoon beneath Humantay Mountain; and the morning sunlight beamed down on the second night’s accommodation TRAILWALKER SUMMER 2018/19 25 Salkantay Trek (cont.)

all huffing, puffing and wondering numbness and a throbbing As my travel buddy and I were why we put ourselves through this headache engulfed my neck, face only completing the four-day trek, agony. Then, out of the shadows, a and head. Did I get too much sun? instead of the typical five. We had brazen black stallion galloped over Not enough water? Perhaps it was a condensed agenda as we had to the ridge, through the morning all the mesmerising scenery? I don’t be in Aguas Calientes (the servicing sunlight and down into the valley know. Luckily, a good lie down and a town to Machu Picchu) later that behind us; a truly unforgettable hot cocoa tea fixed the sensation. evening. Waiting around for our moment and an instant reminder to tour leader wasn’t on the schedule. embrace every situation. DAY 3. When he finally arrived, we had to fter breakfast we separated move quickly. At the top, I made a startling into groups. Our smaller realisation. I had barely sweated for party continued along the After being thrown into a seatbelt- the entire walk. The air was so thin A less rust-bucket station wagon, we path above the jungle canopy. and lacking moisture that despite It was a relatively uneventful rattled our way along the narrow the strenuous workout, I remained morning as we took in the sunshine dirt trail that twisted around the incredibly dry. glowing through the mountains, mountainside. The scenery was some of the most spectacular we’d Getting up close to Salkantay waded through bubbling glacial seen all day, but we were too busy Mountain was a sight to behold. streams and made use of ‘the best panicking to appreciate it. There was another sparkling blue toilet’ in Peru. Anybody who has lagoon, and the surrounding backpacked through South America We finally arrived at Hidroeléctrica, landscape enclosed us like a will understand the excitement of a shanty village at the end of the cauldron. The group sat and finding a clean, well-kept baño – not train line that services the nearby gawked for some time, absorbing to mention one that has cut flowers towns. The plan was to walk the mountainous scenery. next to the sink. alongside the track to our night’s accommodation. What wasn’t Oddly, it was on the descent that Our group made it to the lunch stop I struggled. Pins and needles, and waited for the others to arrive. Continued next page ...

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26 TRAILWALKER SUMMER 2018/19 planned was starting our journey two hours late as the sunlight faded. Let’s just say it wasn’t only the effects of a suspect spicy pork taco that had me on the verge of pooping myself. So there we were, accompanied by a steady stream of strangers, wandering along an unfamiliar trail toward Machu Picchu. Our surroundings went under- appreciated as we trudged on, alert for passing trains and crazed hillbilly mountain folk. With the light disappearing, we had no option but to keep walking. When we finally made it to Aguas Calientes, it was pitch black, and we were exhausted. After a quick bite, we collapsed on our hostel beds with barely a thought of the following days’ antics.

DAY 4. t was our umpteenth day in a row waking up before sunrise, but our Ifinal destination was within reach. After 50kms of hiking, camping and surviving Inca toilets, we were at the heartland of Machu Picchu. We stumbled our way through the dark towards the entrance of the steep staircase connecting the town of Aguas Calientes to the gates of Machu Picchu. Despite the 4:30am timeslot, the line up to enter was already substantial. When it finally started moving, we sandwiched ourselves in the mass of bustling bodies and began the ascent. The next 45 minutes was a hot mess of shadowy silhouettes, flailing limbs (both human and tree) and flickering steps, the depths of Sacred Valley (Top) Passing trains at the end of Day 3 headlamps. The pace was fierce. and the mountainous backdrops on the way to Aguas Calientes; and After barely breaking a sweat over that unveiled themselves in front of Day 4 with Josh atop Machu Picchu the past few days at high altitude, us. Once I’d taken a moment, I was my glands were in overdrive thanks overwhelmed. to the humid conditions. By the time along the Salkantay Trek, but we were exhausted. We caught the I made it to the top, I was soaked. Our tour guide mentioned that train back to Cusco and took the tourist numbers visiting the site had A mystical fog had wafted into the opportunity to roll out of bed at been capped. However, I wouldn’t region, which was more memorable midday the next day. want to see the area without than any expected sunrise. While restrictions; sightseers littered we could barely distinguish the the grounds from the moment we landscape on entry to Machu arrived. Perhaps I just wasn’t used to Picchu, once the mist lifted, the seeing people again after traversing entire brilliant picture was on secluded mountains for the previous display. Its full grandeur was difficult recently walked the three days. Josh West to grasp straight away. Everything Heysen Trail over two months to was on an epic scale. It would take a It had been an action-packed, raise money for the Black Dog while to digest the sweeping grassy salivatingly-scenic four days trekking Institute. TRAILWALKER SUMMER 2018/19 27 Walking the Channel Islands Coastal Way Kevin Liddiard discovered the unique history of the Channel Islands in his three-day walk using a self-guided tour itinerary.

am of the age where I don’t wish ensemble, singing ‘In the Mood’, to walk in high temperatures, steep ‘Bluebirds Over the White Cliffs’ and I climbs, large backpacks, bugs, other tear jerkers. sweat and general discomfort. To this Guernsey coast with distant Next day I took the 25-minute ferry trip end, I walked a year ago in Normandy, German fortification ((above to the island of Herm: an easy walk and ending at the World War II D-Day left), the famous La Coupée the Mermaid Tavern, a good pub for landings. Motivated by this memorable and (below) Kevin Liddiad at lunch and to wait for the return ferry. the end of his walk experience, I decided to walk the nearby Channel Islands Coastal Way, The following day, I took the ferry to again solo with Sherpa Expeditions’ Sark. What a delight. There are no cars; self-guided walking holidays. travel is on earth roads via foot, tractor, cycle or horse (with or without cart). The In April I took the new Qantas direct main attraction is the narrow passage flight from Perth to London, then on between Sark and Little Sark, the to St Peters Port, Guernsey. What a famous La Coupée. On Sark is another delightful town. Mermaid pub, an excellent restaurant, The Channel Islands, in the English and great accommodation. Channel, have a unique history, going Next day I took the ferry back to back to the Duchy of Normandy, when Guernsey and a flight to Alderney. William the Conqueror bequeathed the While I loved Sark, here was the most islands to the English crown. Today the memorable of my walks. The island was Islands exist as a collection of ‘states’ evacuated in World War II including, under the allegiance to Her Majesty I was told, the cattle. The German the Queen, but independent in many occupiers built massive fortifications, Kevin Liddiard joined the ways, under a political set up called a adding to the British forts of the 1800s. Friends in 1990. He has ‘Bailiwick’. walked the Heysen Trail three Alderney is the most remote and The first three days of the walk covered times and is an active walk wildest of the Channel Islands and also the Guernsey coast. A main attraction leader. is well known for its birdlife, notably was the many Loophole Towers, one of the largest gannet colonies erected as defence from the dastardly easily observed from the nearby cliffs. I French during the 100-Year War. I was also lucky to see the quaint puffins. opted out early on the third day of a For more details of Sherpa 29km walk and took the bus around the I shed a tear when I walked past three Expeditions and their self- island – costing only one pound – and posts at the entrance to what was Lager guided tours of the Channel visited the magnificent Castle Cornet. Sylt, a Nazi concentration camp, a dark Island Way: Here you can meet young volunteers history that the islanders would rather www.sherpaexpeditions.com/ dressed in the military uniforms of WWII forget. Suffice to say, the Alderney Self-Guided-Walking and witness the noon cannon firing. The people were welcoming, helpful and castle has its own long history, but for served a good beer at the excellent me the highlight of the visit was a live Georgian House Hotel to celebrate rendition by a talented three-women completion of my walk. 28 TRAILWALKER SUMMER 2018/19 Heysen Trail at Cape Jervis A Focus for Revegetation and Weed Control Richard Trembath explains why the Warren Bonython Foundation has identified the Heysen Trail gateway at Cape Jervis as a focus for greening activities.

he southern gateway to the The Council, under the Heysen Trail at Cape Jervis auspices of its Coastal, Estuary Truns adjacent to the coast and Marine Officer Corey Jackson for approximately 10kms before and others, has made significant ascending to the Deep Creek improvements including the Conservation Park at Blowhole establishment of an environmental Beach. Along this section walkers hotspot between Lands End and will experience magnificent views Fishery Beach. across Backstairs Passage to Kangaroo Island, access to small The gateway section is managed rocky coves and patches of native by the Council while the initial scrub. Unfortunately, it is also the section from Cape Jervis to Lands case that the coastal strip is severely End is managed by the Coastal degraded due to soil erosion, the Protection Board. Maintenance and activity of off-road vehicles and revegetation activities also have infestation by invasive plant species. been undertaken by groups of dedicated volunteers led by There is a need to remediate this Dr Carolyn Schultz of the Cape area to provide an attractive and Jervis Coastal Community Group. welcoming experience for walkers. The development of a rehabilitation COOTS (Conservation of Our responsibility of a number of land and restoration plan for the Threatened Species), a subgroup of management agencies including Cape Jervis trailhead has been the Australia Plant Society, manage the District Council of Yankalilla, recommended in the past. the public lands just inland from the the Coastal Protection Board, Heysen Trail, between Lands End The section between Cape community organisations and and Fishery Beach. Jervis and Fishery Beach is the private landholders. Continued next page ...

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TRAILWALKER SUMMER 2018/19 29 Mount Crawford Stairway Restoration PHOTO: Julian Monfries

Cape Jervis (cont.) Birds of conservation significance The Southern Fleurieu Coastal are the Hooded Plover (Thinornis Action Plan and Conservation rubricollis), Eastern Reef Egret Priority Study 2007 concluded that (Egretta sacra) and the Elegant the beaches and lower slopes of Parrot (Neophema rubricollis). Cape Jervis, Lands End and Fishery The study recommended the Beach are areas of high conservation establishment of a ‘Coastlinks’ value and are facing a high level of project to improve connectivity threat. between coastal habitats. It was identified that the area from The Warren Bonython Heysen Deep Creek to Morgans Beach (to Trail Foundation has identified the the north of Cape Jervis) includes Heysen Trail gateway at Cape Jervis coastal reserves that have been as a focus for greening activity and successfully improved by community will allocate volunteer resources and groups. Actions that would improve grant funding, where successful, to connection between vegetation In early November, a team of nine facilitate this activity. blocks would greatly enhance the volunteers undertook a restoration value of the area. If you are interested in further project to make the Mt Crawford information please contact stairs safe by adding galvanised The study identified the section Richard Trembath on 0438 762 122 wire mesh to the log steps. The from Lands End to Fisheries Beach or info@WBHeysenTrailFoundation. original stairs were one of the as a significant site for Eucalyptus org.au early development projects on the porosa and Melaleuca lanceolata. Heysen Trail, installed in 1994. Unique Burra Accommodation

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Regular Bus Services between Adelaide • A unique experience meters from the Trail • Log fire and wood oven & Copley, and the towns in-between • Lit by oil lamps and candles - passenger/freight timetables on our website. • Cast iron hip bath Larger group? - then hire a bus. • Bunks and Hayloft/sleeps 6 • Minimal power • Short walk to pub, shops and market [email protected] Cost $27p.p. - linen extra www.genesistransport.com.au Part of Olive Grove Retreat Accomodation Email [email protected] PS Moving? we now do removals too - please ring for a quote Ph. 08 88922679 Mob.0447 445 506

30 TRAILWALKER SUMMER 2018/19  CARAVAN

Early September and E2E13 are in the Inman Valley

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