01 Tramlines on a Theater Nestroyhof 09 Offices of the architect Architecture Arrivals Leopoldstadt street Hamakom Gregor Eichinger 02 Karmelitermarkt 06 Promenaders by 10 Song boutique with Much of the district’s Flights to Vienna 03 Inside the home of local the canal owner Myung-Il Song preserved architecture dates International Airport resident Heiri Häfliger 07 OfRoom material behind the counter back a century or more, with 04 Madiani restaurant agency Gründerzeit buildings of six From London 05 Auditorium of the 08 Kabine boutique or seven storeys exhibiting BA and Austrian, several ornate stucco and other flights a day period detailing, interrupted by lower, older and less From New York ornamental Biedermeier Austrian and American, daily structures. Interspersed are Leopoldstadt nondescript estate buildings From Bangkok erected since the Second Austrian, six days a week Vienna World War. A few new high- ——— rises of around 20 storeys Preface dot the streets nearest the A Jewish enclave a canal and several hotels are century ago, Vienna’s currently under construction. Karmeliterviertel – part of Praterstrasse, especially, the larger Leopoldstadt – was once lined with high- was down and out for much ceilinged coffeehouses or of the postwar period. But theatres with vast basement thanks to creative energy restaurants. Many of these 04 05 and smart city planning, the venues are hidden behind area is booming. the walls of supermarkets Services or high-street stores. Writer Some, however, have Karmelitermarkt Kimberly Bradley been restored, like Theater Daily at the marketplace Nestroyhof Hamakom A market dating back to Photographer (see Services ). 1861 has been on this site Lukas Schaller since 1949. It’s packed on 01 Saturday mornings. For much of its history, Vienna’s second OfRoom district, Leopoldstadt, was on the wrong Taborstrasse 18/12, side of the Canal, so to speak. A + 43 1 890 06 53, ofroom.at gasse Across the water from the elegant city Karmeliter Karmeliterplatz An agency that sources B unusual building materials, centre, the Karmeliterviertel (Carmelite C such as flooring made with quarter) – situated around a market place Kleine e s coffee beans. Sperlgasse s 06 07 08 and named after a Carmelite monastery a D g n Ohel Moshe Bakery

T e r that no longer stands – was packed with a Shop Filmarchiv h b Lilienbrunngasse 18, o o

coffeehouses and vaudeville theatres. r E M s + 43 1 214 56 17 t e r Song Until the Second World War it was also a s An unassuming bakery Audiovisual Centre

s s

s o Praterstrasse 11-13, r Augarten, Obere largely Jewish. After the war, however, the e serving the area’s Orthodox G + 43 1 532 28 58, song.at F Jewish community with Augartenstrasse 1, area became poor and seedy. “Histori - Perhaps the most beautiful Danube canal rugalach , challah bread and filmarchiv.at cally, the first district was opera, the shop in Vienna in a vast other kosher goods. Research film history or second was the waltz,” says Gregor 02 industrial space designed catch a screening at the A Madiani Eichinger, an architect who has lived and by Gregor Eichinger. Kabine Filmarchiv Austria. B Kabine Song stocks avant-garde Karmelitergasse 6, worked here for seven years. “The first C Spezerei fashion by Belgian and + 43 1 236 02 88 Theater Nestroyhof was the city’s face, the second its bum.” D Hotel Stefanie English designers. Hamakom This is changing now and at an ac - E Song This delightful boutique sells clothing, handbags and Nestroyplatz 1, + 43 1 890 F Hotel Sofitel Kaas am Markt celerating rate. In summer 2008, the U2 homeware. Everything is 03 14, hamakom.at Karmelitermarkt 33-36, subway line was extended into the neigh - either produced on site This Art Deco theatre was + 43 699 181 406 01, 09 (there’s a sewing studio out a Jewish cultural centre bourhood and in December 2010, the kaasammarkt.at back) or nearby, or they’re before the Second World Hotel Sofitel Vienna Stephansdom, de - An airy market pavilion made with sustainable War, then it was forgotten. selling marmalade, chutney signed by French architect Jean Nouvel, materials. Partially renovated, it has opened to great fanfare. and wine from small-scale staged Jewish-themed The area, which is once again pre - Austrian farmers and Stilwerk plays since 2009. producers. dominantly Jewish, is only a 10-minute Praterstrasse 1, + 43 1 212 06 10 50, stilwerk.de Eichinger Offices walk from the city centre, but it has a 99wines Germany’s design Praterstrasse 33, + 43 1 535 Praterstrasse 11, + 43 completely different feel. While there are emporium comes to Vienna. 54 24, eovienna.at 1 890 05 76, 99wines.at still plenty of empty storefronts and Housed in the angular Architect Gregor Eichinger Exactly 99 wines are unused spaces, a look up reveals attic building adjacent to the is behind many restaurant displayed on the walls Sofitel, 20-odd and gallery interiors as penthouse apartments under construc - according to grape and independently owned well as residences. His tion or high-rises near the water. — (M) flavour. They are all under design shops over four upcoming Babsibar bar and €25. Owner Clemens Kazda storeys sell designer Café Ansari both open on hosts tastings on Thursdays. furnishings and fixtures. Praterstrasse later this year. 03 —   —

10   Vienna The process Property guide Procedures are essentially Buying the same for residents and From €1,300 per sq m for non-residents, with the unrenovated space to exception that non-EU €6,000 per sq m for luxury citizens are required to penthouse apartments secure permission from local authorities to purchase Renting property. In general, 10 per In the Karmeliterviertel: €10 cent of the purchase price to €14 per sq m for is a standard deposit. new leases

Property transfer tax: 3.5 per cent Notary fees: 3-4 per cent 08 09 Agent’s fee: 3 per cent design this building. The Property tax: 0.4-0.9 per Residents view from the roof terrace cent of property’s assessed is like a backdrop to the Heiri Häfliger , 42, artist value neighbourhood that we’ve and designer Estate agent: watched develop. I hope it “This neighbourhood is Susanne Birnleitner, doesn’t get too perfect; the almost rural. At the same birnleitner-immobilien.at cultures mix well together.” time, things are changing. 01 02 07 Nowadays you need a Gregor Eichinger reservation to eat at Eat + Drink 54, architect Skopik + Lohn.” “I moved here seven years Skopik + Lohn ago and now creative Judith Fegerl Leopoldsgasse 17, + 43 1 businesses and young 34, artist 219 89 77, skopikundlohn.at people have come in.” A meeting point for the “When I moved here 10 years ago no one wanted to creative set. Excellent Bella Angora , 43, be here but now it seems traditional fare, such as performance artist like you run into everybody.” wiener schnitzel or blood “Vienna is much more sausage, is served under international now and the Lisa Höfling , 38, the ceiling scribbles of art scene has more occupational therapist, with Austrian artist Otto Zitko. interesting stuff going on. her family For me, the second district “I’ve lived here for 15 years Madian i is the best choice because it and my husband helped Karmelitermarkt 21-24, shows this development.” + 43 664 456 1217, 03 04 06 10 madiani.com Le Loft 01 Pizza Mari A culinary anchor of the Praterstrasse 1, Stay 02 Le Loft Karmelitermarkt, Madiani + 43 1 906 160, sofitel.com 03 Street scene Hotel Sofitel Vienna serves Georgian food in a Atop the Hotel Sofitel 04 Neni im Zweiten Stephansdom permanent pavilion. Order Vienna Stephansdom, 05 Skopik + Lohn Praterstrasse 1, the Oriental breakfast, then with sweeping views and 06 Judith Fegerl’s house + 43 1 906 160, sofitel.com sit back for some people- back-lit ceiling art by 07 Markus Huber’s home Having opened in watching. Pipilotti Rist. Chef Raphael 08 Heiri Häfliger December 2010, the Dworak serves Alsatian 09 Bella Angora Hotel Sofitel Vienna Pizza Mari cuisine to style-seekers 10 Fegerl Stephansdom, designed Leopoldsgasse 23a, + 43 and power brokers. 11 Lisa Höfling and family 676 687 4994, pizzamari.at by Pritzker prize-winning 12 Markus Huber A favourite with locals A Bar Shabu architect Jean Nouvel, 13 Resident Irene Moser is Vienna’s first modern and Viennese from other Rotensternsgasse 8, 14 Huber’s piano five-star hotel. Inside, districts, who come for the + 43 650 544 59 39 15 Striking architecture everything is white, black delicious pizza and the no- One of the first watering 16 Huber’s sitting room or grey, except for the eye- frills, crisp white interior. holes that catered to the 11 12 13 popping ceiling artworks new residents and still one by Swiss artist Pipilotti Neni im Zweiten of the most beloved. A Rist on five ceilings. Praterstrasse 1, down-to-earth local that A peaceful spa and a top- + 43 1 212 12 10, neni.at serves absinthe. Israeli-owned and originally floor restaurant have great from the Naschmarkt, Neni Spezerei views of the city, has branched out in a Karmeliterplatz 2, + 43 1 Hotel Stefanie stylish restaurant on the 218 47 18, spezerei.at Taborstrasse 12, + 43 1 211 ground floor of the new Stay in the cosy interior and 500, schick-hotels.com design shopping centre enjoy an array of good local This charming family-owned Stilwerk. It opened in and international whites, four-star property has been December 2010 and reds and sparkling wines or operating as a hotel for 300 its Mediterranean food snacks, pastas and tapas. years. Moderate prices and makes it a magnet On warm days, take a seat basic comfort in the heart of at lunchtime. outside on the square. the Karmeliterviertel. 05 14 16 —   —

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