(REFEREED RESEARCH) INVESTIGATION OF PERFORMANCE AND STRUCTURAL PROPERTIES OF SINGLE FABRICS MADE FROM OPEN-END ROTOR SPUN

OPEN-END ROTOR İPL İĞİ NDEN ÜRET İLM İŞ SÜPREM KUMA ŞLARIN YAPISAL VE PERFORMANS ÖZELL İKLER İNİN İNCELENMES İ

Nihat ÇEL İK Ebru ÇORUH Çukurova University Engineering Çukurova University Textile Engineering Department, Turkey Department, Turkey e-mail: [email protected]

ABSTRACT In this study, the performance and structural properties of single jersey fabrics are investigated. The yarns, Ne 30/1 and 20/1 which are commonly used in production of these fabrics in Turkey, made of a 100% open-end spun yarns manufactured under the same conditions using the same fibres. The fibre characteristics evaluated by HVI-900, a fibre testing system, are given in the material section of the paper. The performance and structural properties were determined as the fabric weight, the dimensional stability and other struc- tural parameters, spirality, bursting strength, and pilling tendency. It was aimed to perform the test in two ways. Testing the fabrics be- fore any treatments just as knitted and taken them up from the machine. In the second case, they were tested after the sanforization proc- ess applied on the same fabrics. For the purpose of study, six single jersey fabrics have been produced using Ne 30/1 and five fabrics for Ne 20/1 with different fab- ric weights, that the weight can preliminary adjustable by setting the length of loops in knitted structures on the circular machine used, a Monarch type 22 fine and 32” diameter with positive feed systems. The overall results obtained from these tests have been compared and discussions evaluated are given in the end of the paper. Key Words: Single jersey fabrics, Fabric weight, Spirality, Bursting strength, Pilling.

ÖZET Bu çalı şmada, süprem kuma şların yapısal ve performans özellikleri incelenmi ştir. Çalı şmada aynı hammaddeden, %100 pamuk el- yafı kullanılarak, Türkiye’de süprem örgü yapımında en çok kullanılan Ne 30/1 ve Ne 20/1 numaralarda üretilmi ş olan iplikler kullanıl- mıştır. Pamuklar HVI-900 test cihazında test edilmi ş olup sonuçlar çalı şmanın malzeme kısmında verilmi ştir. Performans ve yapısal özellikler kuma ş gramajı, boyutsal stabilite ve di ğer yapısal parametreler, may dönmesi, patlama mukavemeti ve boncuklanma e ğilimi olarak ele alınmı ştır. Kuma şlara sanfor öncesi ve sanfor sonrası olmak üzere iki a şamada testler uygulanmı ştır. Çalı şmanın amacına yönelik olarak Ne 30/1 numaralı ipliklerden altı ve Ne 20/1 numaralı ipliklerden be ş farklı makine üstü gramaj de ğerinde, süprem kuma şlar üretilmi ştir. Hedeflenen makine üstü gramajlar örme kuma ş yapılarında ilmek iplik uzunlu ğunu değiştirmek suretiyle üretim öncesi ayarlanabilmektedir. Üretimde Monarch tipi, 22 makine inceli ğinde, 32 inç çapında, pozitif beslemeli bir yuvar- lak örgü makinesi kullanılmı ştır. Çalı şmanın sonucunda tüm testler kar şıla ştırılmı ş ve sonuçlar yorumlanarak de ğerlendirilmi ştir. Anahtar Kelimeler: Süprem kuma şlar, Kuma ş a ğırlı ğı, May dönmesi, Patlama mukavemeti, Boncuklanma. Received: 15.08.2008 Accepted: 20.10.2008

1. INTRODUCTION manmade , and the growth in erties, softer handle, bulkier nature consumer demand for wrinkle- and high extension at low tension. Knitting is one of the most frequently resistant, stretchable, snug fitting fab- used methods in fabric formation. The rics, particularly in the greatly expand- It was reported (1) that many studies popularity of knitting has grown tre- ing areas of sportswear and other have been worked out on the geome- mendously within recent years. This is casual wearing apparel. Knitted fabrics try and dimensional properties of knit- because of the increased versatility of are popular for their shape fitting prop- ted fabrics produced from different techniques, the adaptability of the new kinds of yarns. Although the problem

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of shrinkage can be twist direction. They suggested using stretching. In addition, from , one solved to some extend by replacing S-twist yarn in machines rotating coun- laundering cycle after wet relaxation is 100 % cotton with a cotton/synthetic terclockwise and Z twist yarn in ma- required to bring the fabric to a fully blend yarn, the severity and lon- chines rotating clockwise. Plied yarns, relaxed state for both plain and rib gevity of pilling, in turn, greatly in- plating techniques and yarns with fabric knitted from the silk. creases, and pilling has become a different twist directions can be used to This paper gives an investigation re- much more serious problem for the solve or reduce this problem. They sults on the performance and struc- knitted apparel industry. The technical also presented an emprical model to tural properties of single jersey fabrics. and economic advantages of open-end predict fabric spirality on the fabric. The yarns, Ne 30/1 and 20/1 made of spinning mean that more staple fibers Marmaralı (4) researched the dimen- a 100% cotton open-end spun yarns are being converted into yarns by this sional and physical properties of cot- manufactured under the same condi- method. Many workers (1-5) have ton/ single Jersey fabrics. The tions using the same fibres. The prop- investigated the dimensional behavior results compared with fabrics knitted erties were determined as the fabric of knitted structures and the depend- from cotton alone examined. The loop weight, the dimensional stability and ence final dimensions on the spinning length and amount of spandex were other structural parameters, spirality, system, count number, raw material used to determine the dimensions and bursting strength, and pilling tendency. and other related subjects. properties of the knits. It was shown The tests were performed in two ways. Candan and Önal (1) studied on the that when the amounts of spandex Testing the fabrics before any treat- dimensional, pilling and abrasion increases, loop length values remain ments just as knitted and taken them properties of a series of plain Jersey, nearly the same and the course and up from the machine, and then, they lacoste, and two thread fleece fabrics wale spacing values decreases. Fur- were tested after the sanforization made from cotton ring and open-end thermore, because spandex-containing process applied on the same fabrics. spun yarns as well as from blend fabrics tend to be tighter, the weight For the purpose of study, six single jersey fabrics have been produced yarns. It was shown that both the and thickness of the fabrics are higher using Ne 30/1 and five fabrics for Ne structural differences and fiber type but air permeability, pilling grade and 20/1 with different fabric weights, that play a large part in determining the spirality are lower. dimensions of these fabrics. It was the weight can preliminary adjustable Quaynor, Nakajima and Takahashi (5) observed that knits from blend yarns on the circular used have a lower dimensional stability studied the deformation by laundering by setting the yarn length of loops. The compared to fabrics from 100 % cotton for jersey and rib flat knit silk and cot- overall results obtained from these ring and open-end spun yarns. Find- ton fabrics with yarns of varying linear tests have been compared and dis- ings for the two thread fleece fabrics densities and fabric tightness. They cussed suggested that the inlay yarns mainly subjected the fabrics to relaxation govern their dimensional behavior in processes and an extended series of 2. MATERIALS the widthwise direction. The dimen- wash and tumble dry cycles. The ex- The fabrics with Ne 30/1 have been sional behavior of the lacoste and two perimental data were statistically ana- produced for six different weights pre- thread fleece fabrics after the launder- lysed to work out the effect of yarn liminary adjusted on the machine as ing cycles revealed that further re- types as well as linear density and 90, 100, 110, 120, 130 and 140 (gr/m 2) search to determine more appropriate tightness factor on the linear and area before knitting, which are the applica- washing regimes for these structures shrinkage behavior of silk as com- ble limits depending on the machine, would be beneficial. The pilling rates of pared to cotton. Multiple washing and yarn, fabric types and etc. Actually, the the samples indicated that unlike plain tumble-dry cycles resulted in an almost weigth adjustment is supplied by ad- jersey fabrics, lacoste fabrics perform complete relaxation state especially for justing or setting the yarn length of very well, and that in general, fabrics cotton. With cotton plain knits, shrink- loops on the machine before knitting knitted from open-end and blend spun age in laundering decreases with the fabric. From this point of view, for yarns have a lower propensity to pill. tightness. The area shrinkage of rib the above weigth values, the fabric Araujo and Smith (2, 3) studied the knits increases with fabric tightness in course density values measured after effect of machine, yarn and fabric the case of cotton. With plain knits, knitting have been found as 12, 14, 16, properties on the fabric spirality. They cotton shrinks more than silk. With rib 18, 20 and 22 (courses/cm) respec- determined that spirality depends on knits, the dimensional stability is good tively before sanforizing process. machine cut, feed density, machine for cotton, while with silk there is a In the same way, the fabrics with Ne rotation direction, loop shape; yarn poor shape retention in the form of 20/1 adjusted for 140, 150, 160, 170 twist value, (twist liveliness) and yarn

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and 180 (gr/m 2) and the corresponding hairiness and number of faults. Table 1 pilling, 3 moderate pilling, 4 slight pilling fabric course density values measured gives the results. and 5 means no pilling (11). after knitting have been found as 14, 4. RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS 16, 18, 20 and 22 (courses/cm) re- 3. METHODS spectively before sanforizing process. The fabrics, before and after the san- Table 2 and 3 give the experimental data obtained according to the stan- It was used a Monarch type circular forizing application, were conditioned for dard methods explained above for the machine with a 22 fine and 32” diame- 24h preliminary to testing and meas- single jersey fabrics produced using ter with positive feed systems. urements at the standard relative hu- Ne 30/1 and Ne 20/1 respectively. In midity 65±2% and 20±2 oC temperature the necessary parts of the work, for The open-end spun yarns of Ne 30/1 in accordance with the standard TS shortening purpose, we used the BS and 20/1 have been produced under EN ISO 139 (6). the same conditions using the same for expressing ‘Berfore Sanforizing fibres of 100% cotton. The Ne 30/1 The wale and course densities were Process’, and the AS for ‘After San- forizing Process’ regarding to the ap- and 20/1 contents the cotton fibres of manually measured from the condi- plication of the sanforization process the fibre length 28.72 mm, fiber uni- tioned test specimens. For this, ten on the fabrics. Figures 1 to 5 illustrate formity ratio 44.7%, fibre micronaire measurements from different parts of the results. In the figures, in general, value 4.60, fibre strength 23.23 g/tex, the fabrics were recorded, and then the horizontal axis is used to show the fibre elongation 10%, cotton brightness the mean density values per cm were pre-adjusted weight (g/m 2), and ac- value Rd 63.57 and colour yellowness taken into account for the study. cordingly the course density values (+b) value 9.07 as the mean values all Similarly, the mean fabric weight per (courses/cm) measured after knitting measured by HVI 900. square-meter was determined in ac- action of the yarns examined. Hence, cordance with the standard TS EN ISO the weight was systematicaly adjusted The yarn samples were spun in a rotor 12127 (7). for Ne 30/1 between 90 and 140 (g/m 2) spinning machine (Rieter R1) which by setting the yarn loop length and the has a 32 mm rotor diameter and OB The dimensional stability in percent corresponding fabric density values 20 type of opening roller. The yarn Ne measured from both the length and measured have been found out vary- 30/1 was produced at 7500 rpm open- width directions of the samples were ing from 12 to 22 (courses/cm). In the ning roller speed and 95000 rpm rotor determined in accordance with the TS case of Ne 20/1, the weight on ma- speed, whereas the yarn Ne 20/1 has 5720 EN ISO 6330 using a Wascator chine was ranged between 140 and washing machine tester (8). a 7000 rpm openning roller speed and 180 (g/m 2) by adjusting the yarn loop 90000 rpm rotor speed. For the fin- The spirality was only carried out on length, and accordingly the fabric den- isher drawframe, Ne 0.100 sliver count the fabrics after the sanforizing proc- sity values measured have been found was used with the same fibre proper- ess by the use of Marks&Spencer out from varying 14 to 22 ties. Methods (9). (courses/cm). In evaluations of the results the investigated parameters Table 1. Yarn characteristics The bursting strength (KPa) tested, have generally been connected to and Ne Ne before and after the sanforizing proc- explained on the base of setting values 30/1 20/1 ess application on the conditioned of the circular knitting machine and Hairiness Value 5.70 5.76 fabric samples, using a James Heal yarns used for this study. It is known

Uniformity (%) 12 13.5 TruBurst bursting strength tester were that there is an inverse relationship determined by the standard of TS 393 CVm (%) 15.13 16.1 between the yarn loop length fed from EN ISO 13938-2 (10). the machine and the fabric course Thin Places (-50%), 26 24 density after knitting. In another way, The pilling properties of the samples, Thick places (+50%) 76 80 the shorter the yarn loop length fed both before and after the sanforizing Neps (+280) 13 19 from the machine it is the higher the process, were tested in accordance fabric course density after knitting. with the TS EN ISO12945-2 using a Here, all the comments refeering to the The yarn variants were laboratory- Martindale pilling tester starting the pre-adjusted weight (g/m 2) on machine tested by the use of Uster Tester 3 in cycles from 125 to 7000 rpm. In evalua- may also be related to the measured order to assess such yarn quality pa- tion of the pilling tendency the scale 1 fabric course density values rameters as the linear density, number means very severe pilling, 2 severe (courses/cm) as well as the yarn loop of twist, unevenness of linear density, length.

270 TEKST İL ve KONFEKS İYON 4/2008

Ta ble 2. Experimental data for the fabrics of Ne 30/1

Adjustment Fabric course The course The wale Dimensional stability Measured weight Mean bursting Spirality after the on density density density after the sanforizing (g/m 2) strength (kPa) sanforizing process the machine after knitting (courses/cm) (wales/cm) process (%) (0) (g/m 2) (courses/cm) AS BS AS W L BS AS BS AS AS 90 12 16 11 13 -9,5 -12,1 102,1 128,2 396,3 382,5 11,7 100 14 17 11 13 -11,3 -11,8 106,9 129,1 398,7 392,5 10,4 110 16 17 11 12 -12,8 -10,9 112,3 136,1 429,6 400,3 8,9 120 18 17 11 14 -13,2 -10,5 125,4 143,4 444,4 456,8 7,9 130 20 21 12 13 -13,4 -6,7 136,8 157,5 445,8 449,3 7,1 140 22 23 12 16 -14,5 -5,5 147,6 171,4 489,5 509,2 4,8

BS: Before Sanforizing Process AS: After Sanforizing Process W: Widtwise Direction L: Lengthwise Direction

Table 3. Experimental data for the fabrics of Ne 20/1

Adjustment Fabric course The course The wale Dimensional stability Measured Mean bursting Spirality after the on the density density density after the sanforizing weight (g/m 2) strength (kPa) sanforizing process machine after knitting (courses/cm) (wales/cm) process (%) (0) (g/m 2) (courses/ cm) AS BS AS W L BS AS BS AS AS 140 14 16 9 11 -9,1 -3,5 152 181,5 572,3 555,8 8,3 150 16 17 10 11 -11,1 -2 160,5 191,7 584,6 562,3 5,9 160 18 18 10 12 -13,6 -2,6 168,4 199,8 591,6 633,1 4,9 170 20 20 10 12 -16,9 -2 184,4 214,5 642,2 687,9 4,6 180 22 22 10 13 -19,8 -2,2 194,1 227 683 690 4,1

BS: Before Sanforizing Process AS: After Sanforizing Process W: Widtwise Direction L: Lengthwise Direction

4.1. Fabric weight, dimensional The following expression has been correspondingly 18 courses/cm after stability and other structural constructed in order give a better un- the sanforizing process. Similar obser- parameters derstanding of the variation of the vation can be seen for the fabrics of weight in the fabric before or after the Ne 20/1 that they are 160 g/m 2 (18 Figure 1 shows the measured weights, application of the sanforizing process. courses/cm) both before and after the before and after the sanforizing proc- sanforizing process. Hence, it may be ess application, corresponding to the W −W = M A × concluded that the variation in the adjusted weight on the machine for the Vw 100 (%) (1) W weight is higher up to this point, then it fabrics of Ne 30/1 and Ne 20/1 to- A settles on a certain level regarding to gether with the linear equations ap- Where; the pre-adjusted weight or the corre- proximated for the data obtained. In Vw: Variation in the weight before or sponding fabric course density value the equations, x is the pre-adjusted after the sanforizing process (%) measured after knitting. This may be weight on machine for fabric produc- Wm: Measured value of the fabric related to the structural properties of tion and y is the measured fabric 2 weight before or after the sanforizing the knitted fabric in general or it is weigth both in g/m . process (g/m 2) more special to single jersey fabrics. It can be seen from the Figure 1 that W Preadjusted value of the fabric The course change of fabrics pro- there is a lineer relationship between A: weight on the machine (g/m 2) duced from Ne 30/1 yarns, before the adjusted and measured weight sanforizing process measured be- values as expected. In the experimen- The data in the Table 2 and 3 have tween 12-22 courses/cm, after san- tal work, the preadjusted weight on been used to calculate the variations in forizing process 16-23 courses/cm. machine was systematically changed, the fabric weight using the expression The wale before sanforizing process and the fabric weight values before (1). Hence, Figure 2 illustrates the 11-12 wales/cm, after sanforizing and after the sanforizing process, were results. process 11-12 wales/cm. Whereas, the measured. Because the calculation It is seen from Figure 2 that there is a course change for the fabrics of Ne results from the regression equations deep point in the variation of the 20/1 yarns, before sanforizing process are well fitted, these equations may be weight that the variation behaves dif- 14-22 courses/cm, after sanforizing used to predict the weight before ferently i.e. This point for the fabric of process 16-22 courses/cm, the wale and/or after an application of sanfori- Ne 30/1 before the sanforizing proc- before sanforizing process 9-10 zation process for the single jersey ess, it is 110g/m 2 as the pre-adjusted wales/cm, after sanforizing process fabrics to be produced using a rotor weight or the corresponding fabric 11-13 wales/cm as given in Table 2 spun yarn of Ne 30/1 and Ne 20/1. density value measured is 16 and 3. courses/cm, whereas, it is 120 g/m 2 or

TEKST İL ve KONFEKS İYON 4/2008 271

250 Figure 3 shows the dimensional stabil- y = 1,138x + 20,82 R2 = 0,9898 Ne 20/1 after sanforizing process ity, meaning the shrinkage properties 200 in per cent, for the fabrics measured y = 0,8814x + 42,919 R2 = 0,9268 Ne 30/1 after sanforizing process both from the widthwise and length-

150 wise directions after washing process y = 1,081x - 1,08 R2 = 0,9842 using a Wascator washing machine in Ne 20/1 before sanforizing process accordance with the standard of TS 100

y = 0,9437x + 13,323 R2 =0,9717 5720 EN ISO 6330 (8). It is clearly Measured weight (g/m2) Ne 30/1 before sanforizing process seen that the fabrics of Ne 30/1 shrink 50 more on the widthwise direction by the Measured weights of the fabrics of Ne 30/1 and Ne 20/1 before and after the sanforizing process increase of the weight determined by 0 the setting yarn loop length, while they 90 100 110 120 130 140 140 150 160 170 180 12 14 16 18 20 22 14 16 18 20 22 shrink less on the lengthwise direction. Ne 30/1, 100 % COTTON OPEN-END SPUN YARN Ne 20/1, 100 % COTTON OPEN-END SPUN YARN It is observed that there is an inverse Weight on machine (g/m2) setted by adjusting yarn loop length and Fabric Course Density (Courses/cm) measured after knitting relationship between the shrinkage of

Figure 1. Measured weights for the fabrics of Ne 30/1 and Ne 20/1 the length and width. On the other hand, again the fabrics of Ne 20/1 shrink more on the width for the in- creased fabric weight, while the 45

Variations of the measured fabric weights of Ne 30/1 shrinkage of the length is less change- 40 and 20/1 before and after sanforizing process able. 35 Ne 20/1 after sanforizing process 30 Ne 30/1 after sanforizing process 4.2. Spirality variation

25 Figure 4 shows the spirality for the 20 fabrics of Ne 30/1 and Ne 20/1 meas-

15 ured only after the sanforization proc- Ne 20/1 before sanforizing process Ne 30/1 before sanforizing process ess using the Marks&Spencer Meth- 10 ods (9). Regression equations fitted for Variations of the measured weights (%) weights measured the of Variations 5 the data are also given with the figure. 0 90 100 110 120 130 140 140 150 160 170 180 In the equations, x is the fabric pre- 2 12 14 16 18 20 22 14 16 18 20 22 adjusted weight (g/m ) and y is the Ne 30/1, 100 % COTTON OPEN-END SPUN YARN Ne 20/1, 100 % COTTON OPEN-END SPUN YARN spirality (degree). In general, the spi- Weight on machine (g/m2) setted by adjusting yarn loop length and Fabric Course Density (Courses/cm) measured after knitting rality decreases with the increase of the weight adjusted on machine. It is Figure 2. Variations of the measured weights of Ne 30/1and Ne 20/1 observed from the equations, the spi-

rality functions well linearly for the fabrics of Ne 30/1 within the setting Weight on machine (g/m2) setted by adjusting yarn loop length and Fabric Course Density (Courses/cm) measured after knitting limits of the machine. However, the

Ne 30/1, 100 % COTTON OPEN-END SPUN YARN Ne 20/1, 100 % COTTON OPEN-END SPUN YARN curve has been well-suited by a sec- 12 14 16 18 20 22 14 16 18 20 22 ond-order polynomial regression for 90 100 110 120 130 140 140 150 160 170 180 0 the fabrics of Ne 20/1. From this point of view, it is clearly seen that the fabric course density and yarn count play an -5 Ne 20/1 lengthwise Ne 30/1 lengthwise important role for spirality behaviour of single jersey fabrics. However, the -10 above comments of this study are only given to explain the connections be- -15 Ne 30/1 widthwise tween spirality and machine settings Ne 20/1 widthwise before and after knitting action. On the

-20

Dimensional stability, shrinkage (%) shrinkage stability, Dimensional other hand, because the spirality has Dimensional stability of the fabrics of Ne 30/1 and Ne 20/1 in the widthwise and lengthwise directions measured after sanforizing process been measured after the sanforizing

-25 process, it has to be related to not only

the yarn loop length and its shape Figure 3. Dimensional stability for the fabrics of Ne 30/1 and Ne 20/1 mainly but also many of the other

272 TEKST İL ve KONFEKS İYON 4/2008

14

Spirality of the fabrics of Ne 30/1 and Ne 20/1 measured after the sanforizing process ined have been produced under the 12 same conditions by the use of the same fibers. Though the yarn’s 10 strength testing results have not been 8 given here in this paper, they had been

y = -0,1297x + 23,384 tested and found out the the Ne 20/1 6 R2 = 0,9811 Ne 30/1 was stronger yarn than the Ne 30/1 in Sprality (degree) Sprality

4 comparison. Hence, as shown from

y = 0,0032x2 - 1,1256x + 102,72 the Figure 5 that the yarn counts and R2 = 0,9769 Ne 20/1 2 their strengths are also important pa-

0 rameters determining the fabric 90 100 110 120 130 140 140 150 160 170 180 strength. However, the data based on 12 14 16 18 20 22 14 16 18 20 22 Ne 30/1, 100 % COTTON OPEN-END SPUN YARN Ne 20/1, 100 % COTTON OPEN-END SPUN YARN our experimental investigations for the Weight on machine (g/m2) setted by adjusting yarn loop length and subject would not be sufficient in order Fabric Course Density (Courses/cm) measured after knitting to give stronger evaluations and com- Figure 4. Spirality of the fabrics of Ne 30/1 and Ne 20/1 ments. Hence, all the other factors such as yarn, fabric and processing parameters in general will be consid- 800 Bursting strength of the fabrics of Ne 30/1 and ered in future examinations. Ne 20/1 measured before and after sanforizing process 700

600 4.4. Pilling variation

500 The pilling properties of the samples, y = 3,365x + 81,88 R2 = 0,959 Linear regression of the mean values of both before and after the sanforizing 400 srength measured before and after sanforizing process for the fabrics of Ne process, were tested in accordance 20/1 300 y = 2,1179x + 189,35 R2 = 0,9181 with the TS EN ISO12945-2 using a Linear regression of the mean values of Bursting Bursting strength (KPa) srength measured before and after Martindale pilling tester starting the 200 sanforizing process for the fabrics of Ne 30/1 cycles from 125 to 7000 rpm. In 100 evaluation of the pilling tendency the

0 scale 1 means very severe pilling, 2 90 100 110 120 130 140 140 150 160 170 180 severe pilling, 3 moderate pilling, 4 12 14 16 18 20 22 14 16 18 20 22 Ne 30/1, 100 % COTTON OPEN-END SPUN YARN Ne 20/1, 100 % COTTON OPEN-END SPUN YARN slight pilling and 5 means no pilling Weight on machine (g/m2) setted by adjusting yarn loop length and (11). Table 4 and 5 show the pilling Fabric Course Density (Courses/cm) measured after knitting properties for the fabrics of Ne 30/1 Figure 5. Bursting strength of the fabrics of Ne 30/1and Ne 20/1 and Ne 20/1 before and after the san- forizing process. It is observed that the sonforization process has no signifi- factors such as the dimensional It is seen from the Figure 5 that the cant effect on the pilling properties. changes after sanforizing process, sanforization process has no signifi- There is no clear effect of the fabric yarn characteristics, fabric patterns cant effect on the strength. Therefore, weight on pilling; more or less the and types etc. In the future examina- the equations were fitted for mean same pilling tendency is seen from the tios of our study, these factors will values calculated by taking the aver- lower to the higher in fabric weights as systematicaly be considered. age of the strength values obtained for given in the tables. On the other hand, the fabrics before and after the san- the pilling cycles are of great important 4.3. Bursting strength variation forizing process. In the equations, x is for the pilling tendency. The higher the the fabric pre-adjusted weight (g/m 2) Figure 5 shows the bursting strength pilling cycles it is the severe or very and y is the bursting strength (KPa). It for the fabrics of Ne 30/1 and Ne 20/1 severe pilling for the fabrics. In gen- is observed from the equations, the tested, before and after the sanforizing eral, the pilling properties are affected bursting strength functions well linearly process application on the conditioned by not only the sanforizing process, both for the fabrics of Ne 30/1 and Ne fabric samples, using a James Heal fabric weight or density, and pilling 20/1 within the setting limits of the TruBurst bursting strength tester and cycles but also the fiber, yarn and machine. Figure 5 illustrates that the determined by the standard of TS 393 fabric types and their structural pa- increase of the weight or fabric course EN ISO 13938-2 (10). Linear regres- rameters such as the fiber materials, density inreases the fabric bursting sion equations are also given with the yarn hairines, uniformity, and fabric strength. In this study, the yarns exam- figure 5. pattern etc. are important factors de-

TEKST İL ve KONFEKS İYON 4/2008 273 Table 4. Pilling properties of the fabrics of Ne 30/1

Adjustment on Fabric course density 125 500 1000 2000 5000 7000 the machine after knitting cycles cycles cycles cycles cycles cycles (g/m 2) (courses/cm) BS AS BS AS BS AS BS AS BS AS BS AS 90 12 3-4 3 3 2-3 2 1-2 1-2 1-2 1-2 1 1-2 1 100 14 3-4 3-4 3 3 2 2-3 1-2 2 1-2 1-2 1-2 1-2 110 16 4 3-4 3-4 3 2-3 2-3 2 2 1-2 1-2 1-2 1-2 120 18 4 4 3-4 3-4 2-3 2-3 2 1-2 1-2 1-2 1-2 1-2 130 20 4 4-5 3 3-4 2-3 2-3 2 1-2 2 1-2 1-2 1-2 140 22 4-5 4-5 3-4 3-4 3 2-3 2-3 1-2 2 1-2 1-2 1-2

BS: Before Sanforizing Process AS: After Sanforizing Process

Table 5. Pilling properties of the fabrics of Ne 20/1

Adjustment on Fabric course density 125 500 1000 2000 5000 7000 the machine after knitting cycles cycles cycles cycles cycles cycles (g/m 2) (courses/cm) BS AS BS AS BS AS BS AS BS AS BS AS 140 14 4-5 3-4 3-4 2-3 3 1-2 2 1-2 1-2 1-2 1-2 1 150 16 4-5 3-4 3-4 3 3 2-3 2 1-2 1-2 1-2 1-2 1-2 160 18 4 3-4 3-4 3 3 2-3 2-3 1-2 1-2 1-2 1-2 1 170 20 4 4-5 3-4 4 3 3-4 2-3 3 1-2 2-3 1-2 2 180 22 4 4-5 3-4 4 3 3-4 2-3 3 1-2 2-3 1-2 2

BS: Before Sanforizing Process AS: After Sanforizing Process

Table 6. Statistical significance analysis of the data for the fabrics of Ne30/1 and Ne 20/1

Fabric pre-adjusted weight Yarn count FW x YC Lack (FW) (YC) of fit F-V P-V C % F-V P-V C % C % C %

FW BS (g/m2) 285.31 0.0001 98.94 2.69 0.1394 0.27 0.12 0.67

FW AS (g/m2) 128.57 0.0001 97.04 9.71 0.0143 1.62 0.34 0.99

CD BS (courses/cm) 6.37 0.0001 48.53 6.37 0.0001 51.47 - -

CD AS (courses/cm) 41.65 0.0003 30.41 26.64 0.0013 55.56 0.25 13.78

WD BS (wales/cm) 9.99 0.0159 23.24 43.44 0.0003 67.11 0.061 9.58

WD AS (wales/cm) 9.35 0.0157 3.25 19.54 0.0022 68.64 - 28.10

SHR W (%) 198.58 0.0001 32.64 147.12 0.0001 34.79 29.53 3.04

SHR L (%) 68.39 0.0001 63.51 24.38 0.0017 19.76 8.93 7.80 SPR (degree) 100.81 0.0001 87.29 11.27 0.0121 8.11 1.06 3.54

BRST BS (KPa) 194.35>47.8 0.0001 91.69 24.96 0.0011 6.29 0.65 1.37

BRST AS (KPa) 66.22 0.0001 94.43 4.48 0.0720 2.41 1.06 2.09

termining pilling behaviour to be con- The experimental results have been separetly. In the table, variables are sidered. statistically evaluated by using the the FW - pre-adjusted fabric weights Design Expert Analysis of Variance on machine (g/m 2), YC - yarn count Yarns used in this experimental work (ANOVA) software with F values of the (Ne 30/1 and Ne 20/1), FW x YC - the have been produced under the same significance level of α=0.05, with the interactions of these two parameters. conditions using the same fibers. Ex- intention of exploring whether there is Moreover, F-V is the F-Value, P-V is cept the yarn counts, the other quality any statistically significant difference the P-Value and C % is the Contribu- parameters are almost identical as between the variations obtained. We tion in per cent. BS means the Before given in the material section. Hence, evaluated the results based on the F- Sanforizing Process, and AS is the the effect of yarn parameters has not ratio and the probability of the F-ratio After Sanforizing Process. been examined in this paper, because (prob>F). The lower the probability of 2 it is thought that the solid statements Abbreviations in Table 6: FW BS (g/m ) the F-ratio, it is the stronger the contri- would only be given by studying these - Fabric Weight Before Sanforizing bution of the variation and the more 2 parameters by systematical way on the Process, FW AS (g/m ) - Fabric Weight significant the variable. subject. After Sanforizing Process, CD BS Table 6 summerizes the statistical (courses/cm) – Course Density Before

5. STATISTICAL SIGNIFICANCE significance analysis for all the data Sanforizing Process, CD AS ANALYSIS obtained in the study except the pilling (courses/cm) – Course Density After

data which have been evaluated Sanforizing Process, WD BS

274 TEKST İL ve KONFEKS İYON 4/2008

(wales/cm) – Wale Density Before measured before and/or after the san- concept of this study to explain the

Sanforizing Process, WD AS (wales/cm) forizing process. connections between spirality and – Wale Density After Sanforizing Proc- machine settings before knitting action. The contributions of fabric pre- ess, SHR W (%) – Shrinkage in the On the other hand, because the spiral- adjusted weight and yarn count on the Width, SHR L (%) – Shrinkage in the ity has been measured after the san- course density are in balance before Length, SPR (degree) – Spirality, forizing process, it has to be related to the sanforizing process with the influ- BRST BS (KPa) – Bursting Strength not only the yarn loop length and its ence of both at around 50 %. How- Before Sanforizing Process, BRST AS ever, after the sanforizing process, the shape mainly but also many of the (KPa) – Bursting Strength After San- other factors such as the dimensional forizing Process. yarn count is comparingly a major factor with the approximated contribu- changes after sanforizing process, The weight was systematicaly adjusted tion of 55 %, while the fabric pre- yarn characteristics, fabric patterns 2 for Ne 30/1 between 90 and 140 (g/m ) adjusted weight approximately contrib- and types etc. In the future examina- by setting the yarn loop length and the utes with 30 %. On the other hand, the tios of our study, these factors will corresponding fabric density values yarn count is a major parameter on systematicaly be considered. measured have been found out vary- wale density with 67 % contribution, The fabric weight with the contributions ing from 12 to 22 (courses/cm). In the whereas the fabric pre-adjusted weight of over 90 % has been found as the case of Ne 20/1, the weight on ma- 23 % affecting the results before san- major factor both before and after the chine was ranged between 140 and forizing process. After the sanforizing sanforizing process for the bursting 2 180 (g/m ) by adjusting the yarn loop process, approximately the contribu- strength. On the other hand, the yarn length, and accordingly the fabric den- tion of the pre-adjusted weight is 3 % count has been the minor factor with sity values measured have been found as a minor factor and that of 68 % for the contribution of less than 7 %. out from varying 14 to 22 the yarn count which becomes a major These results of the analysis should parameter. (courses/cm). In evaluations of the also be considered within the limited results the investigated parameters The contributions of fabric pre-adjusted concept and data of our experimental have generally been connected to and weight, yarn count and interaction of examinations. explained on the base of setting values these two parameters for the shrinkage Table 7 gives the statistical signifi- of the circular knitting machine and on the width are almost equally affect- cance analysis for the pilling data. The yarns used for this study. It is known ing with the contribution of each at revolution cycles have been found as that there is an inverse relationship around 30 %. However, the fabric pre- the major factor on pilling tendency between the yarn loop length fed from adjusted weight is comparingly a major approximately with the contributions of the machine and the fabric course factor with the approximated contribu- 69 % before the sanforizing process density after knitting. In another way, tion of 63 %, while the yarn count ap- and 53 % after the sanforizing proc- the shorter the yarn loop length fed proximately contributes with 19 % and ess. On the other hand, the fabric from the machine it is the higher the the interaction is approximately 8 % as weight and yarn count have no signifi- fabric course density after knitting. the minor factors on shrinkage of the cant influence on pilling properties. Here, all the comments refeering to the length. These results of the analysis 2 Hence, in this study, they are consid- pre-adjusted weight (g/m ) on machine should be considered within the limited ered as the minor factors. However, may also be related to the measured concept and data of our experimental fabric course density values examinations. this may not be absolutely proved (courses/cm) as well as the yarn loop because the interactions of these three The fabric weight as major factor has a length as explained in many parts of parameters have not been given by great influence on the spirality with the the paper. the ANAVO testing and the lack of fit approximated contribution of 87 %. values seems to be important with the The statistical analysis indicate that The yarn count becomes a minor fac- contribution of 27 % before the san- the fabric pre-adjusted weight have tor with a contribution of around 8 %. forizing process and 34 % after the significant influence with % 97-98 However, as explained in results and sanforizing process approximately. contribution on the fabric weight values discussions part of the paper, the comments are only given within the

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Table 7. Statistical significance analysis of the pilling data for the fabrics examied

Fabric Weight Yarn Count Revolution Cycle I L F-V P-V C % F-V P-V C % F-V P-V C % C % C %

PBS 3.71 0.0587 1.65 0.34 0.559 0.16 155.39 0.0001 69.4 - 27.8

PAS 20.13 0.0001 11.05 7.09 0.0099 3.90 96.83 0.0001 53.20 - 34.07

I: Interaction = Fabric Weight x Yarn Count x Revolution Cycle L: Lack of Fit

PBS : Pilling Before Sanforizing Process P AS : Pilling After Sanforizing Process

6. CONCLUSION fabric weight, while the shrinkage of the fabrics of Ne 30/1 and Ne 20/1 the length is less changeable. within the setting limits of the machine. The followings give the outlines based Figure 5 illustrates that the increase of on the experimental concept and data In general, the spirality decreases with the weight or fabric course density of this study as explained in detail in the increase of the weight adjusted on inreases the fabric bursting strength. In the main body of the paper. machine. It is observed from the equa- this study, the yarns examined have tions, the spirality functions well line- There is a lineer relationship between been produced under the same condi- arly for the fabrics of Ne 30/1 within the adjusted weight on machine and tions by the use of the same fibers. the setting limits of the machine. How- measured fabric weight values. But, Though the yarn’s strength testing ever, the curve has been well-suited there is a deep point in the variation of results have not been given here in by a second-order polynomial regres- the weight that the variation behaves this paper, they had been tested and sion for the fabrics of Ne 20/1. From differently i.e. This point for the fabric found out the the Ne 20/1 was stronger this point of view, it is clearly seen that of Ne 30/1 before the sanforizing proc- yarn than the Ne 30/1 in comparison. 2 the fabric course density and yarn ess, it is 110g/m as the pre-adjusted Hence, as shown from the Figure 5 count play an important role for spiral- weight or the corresponding fabric that the yarn counts and their ity behaviour of single jersey fabrics. density value measured is 16 strengths are also important parame- 2 However, the above comments of this courses/cm, whereas, it is 120 g/m or ters determining the fabric strength. study are only given to explain the correspondingly 18 courses/cm after However, the data based on our ex- the sanforizing process. Similar obser- connections between spirality and perimental investigations for the sub- vation can be seen for the fabrics of machine settings before and after ject would not be sufficient in order to Ne 20/1 that they are 160 g/m 2 (18 knitting action. On the other hand, give stronger evaluations and com- courses/cm) both before and after the because the spirality has been meas- ments. Hence, all the other factors sanforizing process. Hence, it may be ured after the sanforizing process, it such as yarn, fabric and processing concluded that the variation in the has to be related to not only the yarn parameters in general will be consid- weight is higher up to this point, then it loop length and its shape mainly but ered in future examinations. settles on a certain level regarding to also many of the other factors such as the pre-adjusted weight or the corre- the dimensional changes after san- It was observed that the sonforization sponding fabric course density value forizing process, yarn characteristics, process has no significant effect on the measured after knitting. This may be fabric patterns and types etc. In the pilling properties. There is no clear related to the structural properties of future examinatios of our study, these effect of the fabric weight on pilling; the knitted fabric in general or it is factors will systematicaly be consid- more or less the same pilling tendency more special to single jersey fabrics. ered. is seen from the lower to the higher in The fabrics of Ne 30/1 shrink more on It was observed that the sanforization fabric weights as given in the tables. the widthwise direction by the increase process has no significant effect on the On the other hand, the pilling cycles of the weight determined by the setting strength. Therefore, the equations are of great important for the pilling yarn loop length, while they shrink less were fitted for mean values calculated tendency. The higher the pilling cycles on the lengthwise direction. It is ob- by taking the average of the strength it is the severe or very severe pilling served that there is an inverse rela- values obtained for the fabrics before for the fabrics. In general, the pilling tionship between the shrinkage of the and after the sanforizing process. In properties are affected by not only the length and width. On the other hand, the equations, x is the fabric pre- sanforizing process, fabric weight or 2 again the fabrics of Ne 20/1 shrink adjusted weight (g/m ) and y is the density, and pilling cycles but also the more on the width for the increased bursting strength (KPa). It is observed fiber, yarn and fabric types and their from the equations, the bursting structural parameters such as the fiber strength functions well linearly both for materials, yarn hairines, uniformity,

276 TEKST İL ve KONFEKS İYON 4/2008

and fabric pattern etc. are important the solid statements would only be ACKNOWLEDGMENT factors determining pilling behaviour to given by studying these parameters by We wish to thank the owners and be considered. Except the counts, the systematical way on the subject. From workers of “Fıstık Tekstil San. ve Tic. other yarn quality parameters are the statistical analysis point of view, A. Ş.” in Turkey, for their assistance in almost identical as given in the mate- the revolution cycles have been found supplying the raw material, production rial section. Hence, the effect of yarn as the major factors on pilling ten- of yarns and knitted fabrics, and open- parameters has not been examined in dency both before and after the san- ing the testing laboratoiry and equip- this paper, because it is thought that forizing process. ment.

REFERENCES 1. Candan C., Önal L., 2002, “Dimensional, Pilling, and Abrasion Properties of Weft Knits Made from Open-end and Ring Spun Yarns” Textile Res. J. , 72 (2), 164-169. 2. Araujo M. D., Smith G. W., 1989, “Spirality of Knitted Fabrics, Part 1: The nature of Spirality” Textile Res. J. , Vol, 59, No.5, 247-256. 3. Araujo M. D., Smith G. W., 1989, Spirality of Knitted Fabrics, Part II: The Effect of Yarn Spinning Technology. Textile Res. J. ,vol, 59, No.6, 350-356. 4. Marmaralı Bayazıt A., 2003, “Dimensional and Physical Properties of Cotton/Spandex Single Jersey Fabrics” Textile Res. J. , Vol.72 (2), pp.164-169. 5. Quaynor L., Nakajima M., Takahashi M., 1999, “Dimensional Changes in Knitted Silk and Cotton Fabrics with Laundering” Textile Res. J. , Vol. 69: pp. 285-291. 6. TS EN ISO 139. 2006 “Standart atmospheres for conditionin and testing”. 7. TS EN ISO 12127. 1999 “- Fabrics- Determination of mass per unit area using small samples”. 8. TS 5720 EN ISO 6330, 2002, “Textiles- Domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing”. 9. MARKS&SPENCER, 2000, “Measurement of spirality of weft knitted fabric and garments” 10. TS 393 EN ISO 13938-2 Part 2:1999, “Pneumatic method for determination of bursting strength and bursting distension”. 11. TS EN ISO 12945-2: 2002, “Textiles-Determination of fabric propensity to surface fuzzing and to pilling- Part 2: Modified Martindale method”. 12. TS 4073 EN ISO 3759. 1999, “Textiles-Preparation, marking and measuring of fabric specimens and garments in tests for determina- tion of dimensional change”

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