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Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei 14 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei Langkawi, Kedah & Perlis (p193) Peninsular Malaysia's Penang Northeast Brunei Darussalam Sabah (p160) (p284) (p316) Perak (p470) (p127) Pahang & Kuala Lumpur Tioman Island (p56) #_ (p254) Selangor & Negeri Sarawak Sembilan (p108) Johor (p239) (p394) Melaka #_ (p217) Singapore (p490) Simon Richmond, Brett Atkinson, Lindsay Brown, Austin Bush, Ria de Jong, Damian Harper, Anita Isalska, Anna Kaminski PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to Malaysia, KUALA LUMPUR . 56 Klang & Pelabuhan Singapore & Brunei . 6 Klang . 118 Malaysia, Singapore Kuala Selangor . 120 & Brunei Maps . 8 SELANGOR & Negeri Sembilan . .. 121 Malaysia, Singapore NEGERI & Brunei’s Top 21 . 10 SEMBILAN . 108 Seremban . 121 Kuala Pilah . 123 Need to Know . 20 Selangor . 110 Sri Menanti . 124 First Time . 22 Batu Caves . 110 Port Dickson . 125 What’s New . 24 Forest Research Institute Malaysia . 111 If You Like… . 25 Genting Highlands . 111 PERAK . 127 Month by Month . 28 Bukit Fraser . 112 Ipoh . 129 Itineraries . 30 Putrajaya . 115 Gopeng & Around . 136 Outdoor Adventures . 36 Petaling Jaya Cameron Highlands . 138 Eat & Drink Like a Local . .. 44 & Shah Alam . 117 Pulau Pangkor . 145 Regions at a Glance . .. 51 KKSTEVEN / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / KKSTEVEN © IMAGES GETTY / MOHD DASHUKI MALAYAN TIGER P524 SZEFEI / SHUTTERSTOCK © SHUTTERSTOCK / SZEFEI MAGGI GORENG P46 Contents Kuala Kangsar . 150 Southeast Penang Taman Negara . 276 Taiping . 153 Island . 192 Kuala Lipis . 281 Kuala Sepetang . 157 Raub . 282 Belum-Temenggor LANGKAWI, KEDAH Rainforest . 158 & PERLIS . 193 PENINSULAR Kedah . 194 MALAYSIA’S PENANG . 160 Pulau Langkawi . 195 NORTHEAST . 284 George Town . 162 Alor Setar . 211 Kelantan . 285 Greater Penang . 185 Around Alor Setar . 214 Kota Bharu . 285 Air Itam & Penang Hill . 185 Kuala Kedah . 214 Around Kota Bharu . 293 Batu Ferringhi . 186 Perlis . 215 Terengganu . 295 Teluk Bahang Kangar . 215 Pulau Perhentian . 295 & Around . 188 Around Kangar . 216 Pulau Redang . 303 Balik Pulau & Kampung Pulau Kapas . 306 Pulau Betong . 190 MELAKA . .. 217 Kuala Terengganu . 307 Melaka City . 219 North of Kuala Ayer Keroh . .. 237 Terengganu . 314 Alor Gajah . 238 South of Kuala Terengganu . 315 JOHOR . 239 SABAH . 316 Johor Bahru . 240 Kota Kinabalu . 318 Muar . 246 Tunku Abdul Rahman Mersing . 248 National Park . 332 Seribuat Archipelago . 250 Pulau Manukan . .. 332 Endau-Rompin Pulau Mamutik . 332 National Park . 252 Pulau Sapi . 333 Pulau Gaya . 333 PAHANG & Pulau Sulug . 334 TIOMAN ISLAND . 254 Northwestern Pulau Tioman . 255 Sabah . 334 The Coast . 264 Mt Kinabalu & Kinabalu Tanjung Gemok . .. 264 National Park . 334 Pekan . 264 Around Mt Kinabalu . .. 342 Kuantan . 265 Northwest Coast . 343 Cherating . 270 Island Getaways . 346 The Interior . 273 Eastern Sabah . 348 Temerloh & Around . 273 Sandakan . 348 PETRONAS TOWERS P57 Jerantut . 274 Sepilok . 354 ON THE ROAD Sandakan Talang-Satang Archipelago . 358 National Park . 430 © IMAGES GETTY / ALEXGCS Deramakot Forest Batang Ai Region . 431 Reserve . 359 Central Sarawak . 432 Sungai Kinabatangan . 360 Sibu . 432 Lahad Datu . 365 Batang Rejang . 436 Danum Valley Bintulu . 440 Conservation Area . 367 Similajau Tabin Wildlife Reserve . 369 National Park . 443 Semporna . 370 Niah National Park . 445 Semporna Lambir Hills Archipelago . 371 National Park . 447 Tawau . 378 Miri . 448 Tawau Hills Park . 381 Northeastern Maliau Basin Sarawak . 455 Conservation Area . 382 Gunung Mulu Southwestern National Park . 455 Sabah . 384 Kelabit Highlands . 461 Interior Sabah . 384 Limbang Division . 468 Beaufort Division . 387 Pulau Tiga BRUNEI National Park . 389 DARUSSALAM . 470 Pulau Labuan . 390 Bandar Seri Begawan . 472 SARAWAK . 394 Tutong & Belait Kuching . 395 Districts . 484 Western Sarawak . 415 Tutong . 484 © SHUTTERSTOCK / AMNAT30 Bako National Park . 416 Jalan Labi . 484 Santubong Peninsula . 419 Seria . 485 Semenggoh Wildlife Temburong District . 485 Centre . 422 Bangar . 486 Annah Rais Batang Duri . 487 Longhouse . .. 422 Ulu Temburong Kubah National Park . 423 National Park . 487 Bau & Around . 425 Brunei Lundu . 426 Survival Guide . 488 Gunung Gading National Park . 427 SINGAPORE . 490 Tanjung Datu Singapore National Park . 429 MARKET STALL, BANDAR Survival Guide . 559 SERI BEGAWAN P472 Contents UNDERSTAND Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei Today . 566 History . 569 People, Culture & Politics . 580 Religion . 586 Arts, Architecture & Media . 590 Environment . 596 SURVIVAL GUIDE Directory A–Z . 602 Transport . 610 Health . 615 Language . 620 Index . 629 STILT HUTS, TAWAU P378 Map Legend . 638 YUSUF MADI / SHUTTERSTOCK © SHUTTERSTOCK / MADI YUSUF SPECIAL FEATURES Outdoor Adventures . 36 Eat & Drink Like a Local . 44 Regional Specialties . 83 The Mega-Diversity Region . 523 TROGON P527 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 30 Itineraries THAILAND George Town Pulau •# Penang É ÷# Taman Negara S O U T H #– National Park C H I N A S E A É É É MALAYSIA KUALA ( S #_ St el LUMPUR ra at it M Anambas o e É f l Archipelago M ak el a ak a) •# Melaka É INDONESIA SINGAPORE #_ 2 WEEKS Essential Malaysia & Singapore This itinerary cherry picks the best of the two countries with a focus on urban adven- tures but also with the chance to experience the region’s amazing biodiversity. Spend your first three days in Malaysia’s capital Kuala Lumpur (KL) where you can explore cultural diversity in Chinatown, marvel at the soaring steel-clad Petronas Towers and discover the treasures of the Islamic Arts Museum. Next head inland to Taman Negara. Even on a two-day visit to this magnificent national park you can clamber across the canopy walkway and do some short jungle hikes. Return to KL and hop on a flight to Penang where three days will give you a good taste of the heritage districts of George Town and other island highlights such as Kek Lok Si Temple. Historic Melaka, another Unesco World Heritage Site, deserves a couple of nights but visit midweek to avoid the crowds. Then head across the causeway to Singapore where you can spend your final four days enjoying everything from maxing out your credit card at glitzy shopping malls and sampling delicious hawker food to visiting the eye-boggling space age architecture of Marina Bay and the excellent zoo and night safari. 31 VIETNAM PHILIPPINES THAILAND S O U T H Mt Kinabalu C H I N A (4095m) Sepilok Pulau S E A Tunku Abdul Orangutan Kota PLAN YOUR TRIP Langkawi Rahman Rehabilitation •# Bharu National Park Centre •# Pulau ÷#•# R •# É •# #– É Perhentian Kota Kinabalu •# É George Ipoh Kenong Rimba BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN É Sabah State Park #_ MALAYSIA Town •#R ÷# BRUNEI DARUSSALAM Pulau •# É É •# Cherating ÷#Gunung Mulu Pangkor É Kuala National Park •# Cameron Highlands Selangor #_ KUALA •#Pulau É É Tioman Sarawak LUMPUR MALAYSIA IT •# I #_ Kuching NERAR SINGAPORE #– É É I INDONESIA ES INDONESIA I N D I A N O C E A N JAVA S E A 6 WEEKS The Grand Tour Starting on the Peninsula and finishing in the wilds of Borneo, this itinerary includes classic sights, some off-the-beaten-track gems and time to relax and take it all in. Schedule a week in Kuala Lumpur and surrounds for sightseeing and acclimatisation. Day trips could include Batu Caves and Putrajaya, a showcase of modern Malaysian archi- tecture. The sleepy old royal capital of Kuala Selangor, near to which you can observe the dazzling natural display of fireflies, is also only a couple of hours’ drive from KL. After a pit stop in Ipoh, which has some great colonial-era architecture and places to eat, your second week is spent in the cooler climate of the Cameron Highlands where you can take walks past verdant tea plantations. Return to the coast and hop across to Pulau Pangkor. The urban delights of George Town, on Penang are up next; the city’s Unesco World Heritage district is packed with colourful, fascinating sights. This large island is also Malaysia’s number one food destination. A quick flight away are the resorts, gorgeous beaches and jungle hinterlands of Pulau Langkawi. Into week four and it’s time to cross the mountainous spine of the peninsula to Kota Bharu, a great place to encounter traditional Malay culture. Island- and beach-hop down the east coast, pausing at Pulau Perhentian, Cherating and Pulau Tioman. Kenong Rimba State Park offers jungle adventures without the crowds. Singapore can easily swallow up a week of shopping, museum viewing and world- class eating. From here you can fly to Kuching in Sarawak, a good base for a longhouse excursion or for arranging a trek in Gunung Mulu National Park. Rack up the visa stamps by taking the overland and river route from Sarawak to Sabah via Brunei stop- ping in the capital Bandar Seri Begawan. Having made it to Kota Kinabalu, relax for a few days dipping into the art scene of Sabah’s capital or heading to the nearby islands of the Tunku Abdul Rahman Nation- al Park. Your final challenge, should you choose to accept it, is to climb Mt Kinabalu. Alternatively, it’s difficult to resist the chance to eyeball close up the supercute ginger apes at Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre. 32 PHILIPPINES S O U T H Sepilok C H I N A Orangutan Mt Kinabalu S E A (4095m) Sungai Rehabilitation Centre Mari Mari Kinabatangan Cultural Village Mt Kinabalu Sandakan PLAN YOUR TRIP (4095m) S O U T H Kota Kinabalu R Kota Kinabalu •# R •# C H I N A •# É •# – S E A # •# •# BRUNEI BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN Sabah •# Miri #_ É ÷# DARUSSALAM É MALAYSIA Beaufort •# ÷# •# Miri É •# Sabah ÷# •# Semporna MALAYSIA #– – # ÷# Niah Bario Danum Valley Gunung Mulu National Park Conservation National Park Sarawak Area ÷# MALAYSIA Ulu Temburong IT •# Bako National Park Sarawak National I Kuching NERAR MALAYSIA Park ÷#Bako National Park Kuching •# Kalimantan •# •# É Annah Rais INDONESIA I Semenggoh Longhouse ES Wildlife Centre Kalimantan INDONESIA J A VA S E A Sabah–Sarawak 2 4 Ultimate Borneo WEEKS Sampler WEEKS This abridged itinerary for the time- On this grand tour of Borneo tackle the challenged offers a sample of the best of island’s top five treks and enjoy some Malaysian Borneo, including top national world-class diving and snorkelling plus parks, snaking rivers and time spent encounters with endangered wildlife.
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