©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Malaysia, & Brunei

Langkawi, & (p193) Peninsular 's Northeast Brunei Darussalam (p160) (p284) (p316) (p470) (p127) & Tioman Island (p56) #_ (p254) & Negeri Sembilan (p108) (p239) (p394) Melaka #_ (p217) Singapore (p490)

Simon Richmond, Brett Atkinson, Lindsay Brown, Austin Bush, Ria de Jong, Damian Harper, Anita Isalska, Anna Kaminski PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to Malaysia, KUALA LUMPUR. . . . 56 & Pelabuhan Singapore & Brunei. . . . . 6 Klang ...... 118 Malaysia, Singapore ...... 120 & Brunei Maps ...... 8 SELANGOR & ...... 121 Malaysia, Singapore NEGERI & Brunei’s Top 21...... 10 SEMBILAN...... 108 Seremban ...... 121 Kuala Pilah ...... 123 Need to Know...... 20 Selangor...... 110 Sri Menanti...... 124 First Time ...... 22 ...... 110 Port Dickson...... 125 What’s New...... 24 Forest Research Institute Malaysia. . . . . 111 If You Like…...... 25 ...... 111 PERAK...... 127 Month by Month. . . . . 28 Bukit Fraser...... 112 ...... 129 Itineraries ...... 30 Putrajaya...... 115 Gopeng & Around. . . . 136 Outdoor Adventures. . . 36 Cameron Highlands. . . . 138 Eat & Drink Like a Local. . .. 44 & ...... 117 Pulau Pangkor ...... 145 Regions at a Glance. . . .. 51 KKSTEVEN /GETTY IMAGES © DASHUKI MOHD / GETTY IMAGES ©

MALAYAN TIGER P524 SZEFEI /SHUTTERSTOCK ©

MAGGI GORENG P46 Contents

Kuala Kangsar ...... 150 Southeast Penang Taman Negara...... 276 Taiping...... 153 Island...... 192 Kuala Lipis...... 281 Kuala Sepetang ...... 157 Raub...... 282 Belum-Temenggor LANGKAWI, KEDAH Rainforest ...... 158 & PERLIS...... 193 PENINSULAR Kedah...... 194 MALAYSIA’S PENANG...... 160 Pulau Langkawi ...... 195 NORTHEAST. . . . . 284 George Town...... 162 Alor Setar ...... 211 ...... 285 Greater Penang. . . . . 185 Around Alor Setar . . . . . 214 Kota Bharu ...... 285 & Penang Hill. . . 185 Kuala Kedah...... 214 Around Kota Bharu. . . . . 293 Batu Ferringhi...... 186 Perlis ...... 215 ...... 295 Teluk Bahang Kangar...... 215 Pulau Perhentian...... 295 & Around...... 188 Around Kangar...... 216 Pulau Redang...... 303 Balik Pulau & Kampung Pulau Kapas ...... 306 Pulau Betong ...... 190 MELAKA...... 217 ...... 307 Melaka City...... 219 North of Kuala Ayer Keroh...... 237 Terengganu...... 314 Alor Gajah...... 238 South of Kuala Terengganu...... 315 JOHOR...... 239 SABAH...... 316 ...... 240 ...... 318 Muar...... 246 Tunku Abdul Rahman Mersing ...... 248 National Park ...... 332 Seribuat Archipelago. . . . 250 Pulau Manukan...... 332 Endau-Rompin Pulau Mamutik...... 332 National Park ...... 252 Pulau Sapi...... 333 Pulau Gaya ...... 333 PAHANG & Pulau Sulug...... 334 TIOMAN ISLAND . . . 254 Northwestern Pulau Tioman ...... 255 Sabah...... 334 The Coast ...... 264 Mt Kinabalu & Kinabalu Tanjung Gemok...... 264 National Park ...... 334 Pekan...... 264 Around Mt Kinabalu. . . .. 342 Kuantan...... 265 Northwest Coast ...... 343 Cherating...... 270 Island Getaways...... 346 The Interior...... 273 Eastern Sabah. . . . . 348 Temerloh & Around. . . . 273 ...... 348 PETRONAS TOWERS P57 Jerantut...... 274 Sepilok...... 354 ON THE ROAD

Sandakan Talang-Satang

Archipelago...... 358 National Park ...... 430 ALEXGCS /GETTY IMAGES © Deramakot Forest Batang Ai Region. . . . . 431 Reserve ...... 359 Central Sarawak. . . . . 432 Sungai Kinabatangan . . . . 360 Sibu ...... 432 Lahad Datu...... 365 Batang Rejang ...... 436 Danum Valley Bintulu...... 440 Conservation Area. . . . . 367 Similajau Tabin Wildlife Reserve. . . . 369 National Park ...... 443 Semporna...... 370 Niah National Park. . . . . 445 Semporna Lambir Hills Archipelago...... 371 National Park ...... 447 Tawau...... 378 Miri...... 448 Tawau Hills Park...... 381 Northeastern Maliau Basin Sarawak...... 455 Conservation Area. . . . . 382 Gunung Mulu Southwestern National Park ...... 455 Sabah...... 384 Kelabit Highlands. . . . . 461 Interior Sabah...... 384 Limbang Division...... 468 Beaufort Division...... 387 Pulau Tiga BRUNEI National Park ...... 389 DARUSSALAM . . . . 470 Pulau ...... 390 Bandar Seri Begawan...... 472 SARAWAK...... 394 Tutong & Belait ...... 395 Districts...... 484

Western Sarawak. . . . 415 Tutong ...... 484 AMNAT30 /SHUTTERSTOCK © Bako National Park. . . . 416 Jalan Labi ...... 484 Santubong Peninsula . . . 419 Seria...... 485 Semenggoh Wildlife Temburong District. . . . 485 Centre ...... 422 Bangar...... 486 Annah Rais Batang Duri...... 487 Longhouse...... 422 Ulu Temburong Kubah National Park. . . . 423 National Park ...... 487 Bau & Around...... 425 Brunei Lundu...... 426 Survival Guide ...... 488 Gunung Gading National Park ...... 427 SINGAPORE . . . . . 490 Tanjung Datu Singapore National Park ...... 429 MARKET STALL, BANDAR Survival Guide ...... 559 SERI BEGAWAN P472 Contents

UNDERSTAND

Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei Today. . . . . 566 History...... 569 People, Culture & Politics...... 580 Religion ...... 586 Arts, Architecture & Media...... 590 Environment...... 596

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z...... 602 Transport...... 610 Health...... 615 Language...... 620 Index...... 629 STILT HUTS, TAWAU P378 Map Legend...... 638 YUSUFMADI /SHUTTERSTOCK ©

SPECIAL FEATURES Outdoor Adventures . . . 36 Eat & Drink Like a Local...... 44 Regional Specialties. . . 83 The Mega-Diversity Region...... 523

TROGON P527 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 30

Itineraries

THAILAND

George Town Pulau •#

Penang É

÷# Taman Negara S O U T H #– National Park C H I N A S E A

É É

É MALAYSIA

KUALA ( S #_ St el LUMPUR ra at it M Anambas o e É f l Archipelago M ak el a ak a) •# Melaka É

INDONESIA SINGAPORE #_

2 WEEKS Essential Malaysia & Singapore

This itinerary cherry picks the best of the two countries with a focus on urban adven- tures but also with the chance to experience the region’s amazing biodiversity. Spend your first three days in Malaysia’s capital Kuala Lumpur (KL) where you can explore cultural diversity in , marvel at the soaring steel-clad Petronas Towers and discover the treasures of the Islamic Arts Museum. Next head inland to Taman Negara. Even on a two-day visit to this magnificent national park you can clamber across the canopy walkway and do some short jungle hikes. Return to KL and hop on a flight to Penang where three days will give you a good taste of the heritage districts of George Town and other island highlights such as . Historic Melaka, another Unesco World Heritage Site, deserves a couple of nights but visit midweek to avoid the crowds. Then head across the causeway to Singapore where you can spend your final four days enjoying everything from maxing out your credit card at glitzy shopping malls and sampling delicious hawker food to visiting the eye-boggling space age architecture of Marina Bay and the excellent zoo and night safari. 31

VIETNAM S O U T H Mt Kinabalu C H I N A (4095m) Sepilok Pulau S E A Tunku Abdul Orangutan Kota TRIP YOUR PLAN Langkawi Rahman Rehabilitation •# Bharu National Park Centre •# Pulau ÷#•# R •# É •# #– É Perhentian Kota Kinabalu •# É George Ipoh Kenong Rimba BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN É Sabah State Park #_ MALAYSIA

Town •#R ÷# BRUNEI DARUSSALAM Pulau •# É

É •# Cherating ÷#Gunung Mulu Pangkor É Kuala National Park •# Cameron Highlands Selangor #_ KUALA •#Pulau É É Tioman Sarawak LUMPUR MALAYSIA It

•# i nerar #_ Kuching SINGAPORE #– É É

INDONESIA i es

INDONESIA

I N D I A N O C E A N JAVA S E A

6 WEEKS The Grand Tour

Starting on the Peninsula and finishing in the wilds of , this itinerary includes classic sights, some off-the-beaten-track gems and time to relax and take it all in. Schedule a week in Kuala Lumpur and surrounds for sightseeing and acclimatisation. Day trips could include Batu Caves and Putrajaya, a showcase of modern Malaysian archi- tecture. The sleepy old royal capital of Kuala Selangor, near to which you can observe the dazzling natural display of fireflies, is also only a couple of hours’ drive from KL. After a pit stop in Ipoh, which has some great colonial-era architecture and places to eat, your second week is spent in the cooler climate of the Cameron Highlands where you can take walks past verdant tea plantations. Return to the coast and hop across to Pulau Pangkor. The urban delights of George Town, on Penang are up next; the city’s Unesco World Heritage district is packed with colourful, fascinating sights. This large island is also Malaysia’s number one food destination. A quick flight away are the resorts, gorgeous beaches and jungle hinterlands of Pulau Langkawi. Into week four and it’s time to cross the mountainous spine of the peninsula to Kota Bharu, a great place to encounter traditional Malay culture. Island- and beach-hop down the east coast, pausing at Pulau Perhentian, Cherating and Pulau Tioman. Kenong Rimba State Park offers jungle adventures without the crowds. Singapore can easily swallow up a week of shopping, museum viewing and world- class eating. From here you can fly to Kuching in Sarawak, a good base for a longhouse excursion or for arranging a trek in Gunung Mulu National Park. Rack up the visa stamps by taking the overland and river route from Sarawak to Sabah via Brunei stop- ping in the capital Bandar Seri Begawan. Having made it to Kota Kinabalu, relax for a few days dipping into the art scene of Sabah’s capital or heading to the nearby islands of the Tunku Abdul Rahman Nation- al Park. Your final challenge, should you choose to accept it, is to climb Mt Kinabalu. Alternatively, it’s difficult to resist the chance to eyeball close up the supercute ginger apes at Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre. 32

HIIInes S O U T H Sepilok C H I N A Orangutan Mt Kinabalu S E A (4m) Sungai Rehabilitation Centre Mari Mari Kinabatangan Cultural Village Mt Kinabalu Sandakan

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN (4m) S O U T H Kota Kinabalu

R Kota Kinabalu •# R •#

C H I N A •# É •#

– S E A # •# •# BrneI BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN s •# Miri #_ É ÷# arssaa É aasIa

Beaufort •# ÷# •# Miri É •# s ÷# •# Semporna

aasIa #–

– # ÷# Niah Bario Danum alley Gunung Mulu National Park Conservation National Park s Area ÷# aasIa Ulu Temburong It •# Bako National Park s National i nerar Kuching aasIa Park ÷#Bako National Park Kuching •# K •# •# É Annah Rais InOnesIa

i es Semenggoh Longhouse Wildlife Centre K InOnesIa

J A VA S E A

Sabah–Sarawak 2 4 Ultimate Borneo WEEKS Sampler WEEKS

This abridged itinerary for the time- On this grand tour of Borneo tackle the challenged offers a sample of the best of island’s top five treks and enjoy some Malaysian Borneo, including top national world-class diving and snorkelling plus parks, snaking rivers and time spent encounters with endangered wildlife. lounging on longhouse verandahs. From Kuching explore the local long- Start in Kota Kinabalu (KK), which houses and Bako National Park. Fly to encapsulates Southeast Asian city life Miri, which is the base for trips to the im- on a manageable scale and where you’ll pressive Niah National Park and Bario be obliged to spend a day or two sorting in the vine-draped Kelabit Highlands. permits to tackle Sabah’s star attraction, Travel overland to Bandar Seri Bega- Mt Kinabalu. Consider a day-trip cruise wan, Brunei’s capital. Also schedule in the (including buffet dinner) down one of the sultanate’s Ulu Temburong National tea-brown rivers in the Beaufort Divi- Park, a pristine sliver of primary sion, or learn a little about the local cul- rainforest. ture at the Mari Mari Cultural Village. Chill out in Kota Kinabalu before set- Leapfrog by plane from KK to Miri and ting off for Mt Kinabalu. Catch some ape then on to Gunung Mulu National Park, love at the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabili- home to the world’s largest caves, and tation Centre, followed by a layover in several challenging jungle treks, includ- historic Sandakan. The mighty Sungai ing the marathon Headhunters Trail. Pass Kinabatangan­ offers wildlife enthusiasts through Miri once more for a flight down plenty of photo fodder. If you’ve got the to Kuching. Sarawak’s capital is a real time (and the dime), head deep into Sa- charmer and will easily keep you occupied bah’s green interior for a trek through the for several days. Break up your time in Danum Valley Conservation Area. The town with a visit to Semenggoh Wildlife magnificent dive sites of the Semporna Centre, Bako National Park and, if you Archipelago accessed from Semporna have time, to a longhouse such as Annah provide an ideal climax. Rais Longhouse. 33

G U L F O F T H A I L A N D

Pulau tHaIan Langkawi Kota

•# Pulau Perhentian

Bharu Kecil Pulau

# – f# •# Alor Setar •# Perhentian Besar TRIP YOUR PLAN

É •# aasIa É ÷# •# Pulau Royal Belum •# Penang State Park Kuala Terengganu Endau-Rompin Pulau George •#Tioman É National f# Town É Gunung Ledang Park aasIa National Park ÷# f# •# •# ÷# Seribuat Cherating Archipelago Bukit •# É It

•# i nerar Fraser Melaka É •# Muar

É (S S #_ É t el ra a i t KUALA t M o e i es f la M k LUMPUR •# Johor Bahru el a ak a) #_SINGAPORE

sInaOre

InOnesIa InOnesIa

3 3 WEEKS Jewels of the North WEEKS Southern Comforts

Idyllic islands, Malay culture, rainforests The southern end of is and hill stations all feature on this tour no slouch in offering up a diverse range of around the north of Peninsular Malaysia. travel experiences, plus there’s easy access to and from Singapore, the logical start Explore Kuala Lumpur for a few days and finish to this trip. before heading to the east-coast resort of Cherating. Move on to Kuala Tereng- Leave yourself several days to soak up ganu, with its pretty Chinatown and the the island state of Singapore’s manifold Kompleks Muzium Negeri Terengganu. attractions. If you’re strapped for cash then Johor Bahru just across the causeway is Next come the classic Perhentian a cheaper base. It’s a decent hangout, not islands, accessed from Kuala Besut. Pulau least for street food and nearby Legoland. Perhentian Besar tends to be less crowded and just as gorgeous as its more popular The lethargic riverside town of Muar twin, Pulau Perhentian Kecil. Back on the has a colonial-era district that’s worth a mainland, linger a day or two in Kota look, and can be used as a base for assaults Bharu, for its museums, cultural events on Gunung Ledang, Johor’s highest moun- and night market, then head to the remote tain, located within the Gunung Ledang Royal Belum State Park in northern National Park. Recover in Unesco World Perak. Heritage Site–listed Melaka where you can spend several days enjoying the endur- Access more Malay culture in Kedah’s ing Portuguese and Dutch influence. capital Alor Setar before taking the ferry from Kuala Perlis to Pulau Langkawi Explore the last remaining stands of for sunbathing, island-hopping and jun- lowland forest on the peninsula in Endau- gle exploration. Fly to George Town, Rompin National Park. Stunning Pulau the essential stop on Penang, then cool Tioman is the epitome of an island para- down in the hill station of Bukit Fraser dise. Alternatively, indulge in some island- (Fraser’s Hill) before returning to KL. hopping and diving around the 64 gems of the Seribuat Archipelago. 34 •# •# •# e# km Malaysia•# Brunei •# Off the •# Beaten Track miles

MYANMAR BNG VIETNAM

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN MBK CNN TMN NEGE PELS CNSETN E H r K s s s t OFF T H E PULU LNG TENG THAILAND PHILIPPINES t PULU SELNG

B ECETNL PK

EATEN TMN NEGE a B PELS #÷ t PULU TRA Kangar •# Kota Kota LNG Kinabalu •# •# Alor Setar Bharu TENG PULU •# •#Sandakan

CK #æ Kuala SELNG ECETNL •# Terengganu MBK CNN George Town BNG •# •# PK #÷ KENNG MB BANDAR SERI #æ CNSETN E #_ SABAH Taiping •# KENNG MB STTE PK BEGAWAN •# #æ MALAYSIA STTE PK BRUNEI •#Semporna Ipoh #÷ a BTU DARUSSALAM PUNGGUL MALAYSIA •#Kuantan •#Medan KUALA SUNG BNTNG LUMPUR #_ t n Putrajaya •# ECETNL •# EST KUCNG Seramban SARAWAK #÷ WETLNS •#Melaka SUNG BNTNG NTNL MALAYSIA Johor PK PULU #æ ECETNL EST •#Sibolga BES Bahru #÷ •# •#Kuching BTU PUNGGUL a B #_ n K SINGAPORE SUMATRA INDONESIA KUCNG WETLNS NTNL PK t PULU BES KALIMANTAN INDONESIA s s I

•# 35 •# •# •# e# km Malaysia•# Brunei •# Off the •# Beaten Track miles

MYANMAR BNG VIETNAM

TRIP YOUR PLAN MBK CNN TMN NEGE PELS CNSETN E H r K s s s t OFF T H E PULU LNG TENG THAILAND PHILIPPINES t PULU SELNG

B ECETNL PK

TMN EATEN NEGE a B PELS #÷ t PULU Kangar •# Kota Kota TRA LNG Kinabalu •# •# Alor Setar Bharu TENG PULU •# •#Sandakan

#æ Kuala SELNG CK ECETNL •# Terengganu MBK CNN George Town BNG •# •# PK #÷ KENNG MB BANDAR SERI #æ CNSETN E #_ SABAH Taiping •# KENNG MB STTE PK BEGAWAN •# #æ MALAYSIA STTE PK BRUNEI •#Semporna Ipoh #÷ a BTU DARUSSALAM PUNGGUL MALAYSIA •#Kuantan •#Medan KUALA SUNG BNTNG LUMPUR #_ t n Putrajaya •# ECETNL •# EST KUCNG Seramban SARAWAK #÷ WETLNS •#Melaka SUNG BNTNG NTNL MALAYSIA Johor PK PULU #æ ECETNL EST •#Sibolga BES Bahru #÷ •# •#Kuching BTU PUNGGUL a B #_ n K SINGAPORE SUMATRA INDONESIA KUCNG WETLNS NTNL PK t PULU BES KALIMANTAN INDONESIA s s I

•# ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 627

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

OUR READERS Lindsay Brown Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edi- I am very grateful for the assistance provided by tion and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice numerous friendly folks across Malaysia’s northeast. and interesting anecdotes: Ameer Hamza, Andrew In particular, I would like to thank Lorenz in Kuala Lamère, Charlotte Crawford, Dale Follas, Edwin Terengganu, Zeck in Kota Bharu and Bukhari ‘Bob’ Heeregrave, Evelin Mueller, Hanna Becker, J Welch, Mat in Dabong. Thanks to Jenny for being the best Jean-Philippe Mauve, Ken Wilson, Nadia Vendrig, travelling companion. Nicolas Combremont, Owen Davies, Sally Arnold, Austin Bush Simone and Sergine Verswijveren, Steve Mair, Steven Thanks to all the kind folks on the ground in Malaysia, Hankey, Susanne Mathys, Tim Marlow, Tom Micciche. in particular Bairavi Shanmugam, Narelle McMurtrie, Wanida Razali and the cats at Temple Tree. WRITER THANKS Ria de Jong Simon Richmond Thank you to my destination editor Tanya Parker for Terima kasih to the following who assisted with my all her help guiding me through my Lonely Planet research in Malaysia: Ng Seksan, Andrew Sebastian, adventure, and to all those I met along my travels Narelle, Brian and Andrew, Mei Yun (Elena), Melissa who kindly shared their knowledge, time and Singa- Low, Baida Herbus and Mienal Hussein. pore secrets with me. Thanks also to Craig, Cisca and William, my travelling circus tribe. Brett Atkinson In Kuching, terima kasih to Donald and Marina, Damian Harper Wayne, Danny and Purdey, and thanks to Louise in Many thanks to everyone who helped along the Santubong. Around Batang Ai, Bading effortlessly led way, especially Allan Rodrigo Balang, Peck Choo the way, and Lucy, David and Lian (x2) made visiting Ho, Carl Lim, Celeste Brash, Shaowen, Ruth, Pei Bario an absolute highlight. Also in Bario it was good Lee Yeoh, Johnny Doran, Rupert Maconick, Sue, the to meet the Mild Men of Borneo, Alasdair, Jason helpful staff at Hotel Sentral Kuantan, Haziq, Rudin and Giles. Cheers also to Mr Lim, Daniel and Jason Zulkarnain Voon, Tim and Emma, and much gratitude Brooke. Final thanks to Tanya Parker at Lonely Planet and a tip of the hat to everyone else who proffered and my Borneo co-authors Anna and Paul. tips and suggestions along the way. 628 Anita Isalska William, Wendy and Tom in KK; Shavez in Tawau Big thanks to all the travellers who shared their Hills; Itisha and Simon in Lahad Datu; Howard at travel tips and tribulations with me – you helped the Tip of Borneo; Anton and Linn in Sandakan; make this trip. I’m grateful for the local insights Wong in Sepilok; Sitti in Deramakot; Afiq on the and advice of Val and the Father’s Guesthouse Kinabatangan; and my guides on Mt Kinabalu, in team, Jason Marcus Chin, Andrew Sebastian, Jaja Danum Valley and Tabin Wildlife Reserve.

BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND Taher, Jennifer Freely and Howard Tan – terima kasih. Special thanks to Normal Matt for facing highland roads (and his food demons) to join my ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS research. Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of Anna Kaminski the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’,­ Hydrol- Huge thanks to Tanya for entrusting me with Sabah ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. and Brunei, and to everyone who’s helped me along Cover photograph: Street art along the Melaka the way. In particular: Thanis Lim and Leslie in BSB; River, Melaka; Richard Taylor/4Corners ©

guidebook was produced by Cartographers THIS BOOK the following: Hunor Csutoros, Julie Dodkins This 14th edition of Lonely Destination Editor Cover Researcher Planet’s Malaysia, Singapore Tanya Parker Wibowo Rusli & Brunei guidebook was Senior Product Editor Thanks to Jennifer Carey, curated by Simon Richmond, Kate Chapman Helen Elfer, Bruce Evans, and researched and written by Regional Senior Martin Heng, David Simon, Brett Atkinson, Lindsay Cartographer Julie Sheridan Hodges, Kate James, Alicia Brown, Austin Bush, Ria de Johnson, Amy Lynch, Hugh Product Editor Will Allen Jong, Damian Harper, Anita McNaughtan, Kate Morgan, Book Designer Fergal Condon Isalska and Anna Kaminski. Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, The previous edition was writ- Assisting Editors Sarah Niamh O’Brien, Genna ten by Isabel Albiston, Brett Bailey, Andrew Bain, Patterson, Monique Perrin, Atkinson, Greg Benchwick, James Bainbridge, Judith Gary Rafferty, Jessica Cristian Bonetto, Austin Bamber, Nigel Chin, Michelle Ryan, Eleanor Simpson, Bush, Anita Isalska, Robert Coxall, Jacqueline Danam, James Smart Scott Kelly, Simon Richmond Anne Mulvaney, Rosie and Richard Waters. This Nicholson, Monica Woods ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 629

Index

A area codes 21 batik courses 71, 270, 288 Bintulu 440-3, 442 Abai 364-5 art galleries, see galleries, bats 446 bird-watching 27 accessible travel 602 museums Batu Caves 17, 110-11, 17 Danum Valley Singapore 559 Art Printing Works 95 Batu Ferringhi 186-8 Conservation Area 368 accommodation 22, 602-4, arts 590-4, see also individ- Batu Gajah 137 Gunung Mulu ual art forms National Park 455 see also accommodation Batu Maung 192 asam 46, 47, 83 Jurong Bird Park 515 types individual locations Batu Punggul 16, 387, 16 ATMs 606 KL Bird Park 63 booking 603 Bau 425-6 Labuan Bird Park 391 budgeting 73, 604 ayam percik 88 Bawang Assan Longhouse language , 620-1 Ayer Keroh 237-8 Village 432 Vale Eco Center 145 activities 36-43, see also beaches birds 527 individual activities Batu Ferringhi 186-8 birds nests 361 adventure sports 519 B boat cruises Ba Kelalan 467-8 Beserah Beach 266 AIDS 616 Kuching 404 Badawi, Abdullah 577 Pantai Cahaya Bulan 293-4 Air Itam 185-6 boat travel 611, 612 Bako National Park 416-19 Pantai Cenang 195 air travel 610, 611-12 boat trips 43 Bakun Dam 440 Pantai Kok 197-8 airports 21 Bako National Park 417-18 Balik Pulau 190-2 Pantai Pasir Hitam 199 Alor Gajah 238 Bandar Seri Begawan 477 ballooning 116 Pantai Pasir Tengkorak 198 Alor Setar 211-14, 213 Kuching 404 Bandar Labuan 390-3, 391 Pantai Seri Kenangan 484 ambuyat 479 Sabah 361 Bandar Seri Begawan 472- Pantai Tengah 196-7 amusement parks Similajau National 84, 474 Peranginan Pantai Park 443 Escape 189 accommodation 477-8 Muara 476 Taman Negara 278 Jerudong Park activities 477 Pulau Libaran 359 Playground 476 books 566, 584, 586 drinking & nightlife 480-1 Pulau Mamutik 332 Legoland 243 Pulau Manukan 332 history 570, 571, 573, 575, emergencies 481 577, 578 Melaka Wonderland 237-8 Pulau Perhentian 298 entertainment 481 border crossings Skytrex Melaka 237 Pulau Sapi 333 food 478-80 Brunei Darussalam 393, Sunway Lagoon 117 Sentosa Island 517 internet access 481 454, 482, 483 Universal Studios 517-18 Tanjung Aru 322, 328 media 481 Indonesia 236, 245, 381, animals 27, 339, 523-32, see Teluk Kumbar 192 also individual animals medical services 482 414, 467, 562 Tempurung 388 animism 588 money 482 Singapore 246 Tip of Borneo 345 Annah Rais Longhouse 422-3 postal services 482 Thailand 211, 214, 215, 293 bears 355 anti-Semitism 589 shopping 481 Brunei Darussalam 54, Beaufort 387-8 470-89, 471 apartments 603 sights 472-6 Beaufort Division 387-9 accommodation 470, 489 George Town 175 telephone services 482 bedbugs 616 budgeting 488-9 Kuala Lumpur 77 tours 477 bees 618 climate 470 aquariums travel to/from 482-3 belacan 87 emergencies 489 Aquaria KLCC 61 travel within 483-4 Belaga 439-40 food 92, 470, 488 SEA Aquarium 517 Bangar 486-7 Belait 484-5 highlights 471 Underwater World 195 bargaining 23 Bario 462-4 Belum-Temenggor holidays 489 architecture 25, 594-5 Rainforest 158-9 Bario rice 466 legal issues 489 Minangkabau 124 Besar 298-300 Batang Ai 431-2 LGBT+ travellers 489 bicycle travel 612, see Batang Duri 487 media 595 also cycling Map Pages 000 Batang Rejang 436-40 money 488 Bidong Island 310, 314, 528 Photo Pages bathrooms 607-8 people 583 000 Bilit 363 630 Brunei Darussalam travel to/from 145 churches & cathedrals dengue fever 616 continued travel within 145 All Saints Church 153 departure tax 611 politics 585 camping 603 220 diarrhoea 616-17 postal services 489 canopy walks 368 St Andrew’s disabilities, travellers telephone services 489 car travel 612-13 Cathedral 498-9 with 602 time 489 carbon emissions 598, 610 St Michael’s & All Angels diving & snorkelling 11, 13,

INDEX INDEX tourist information 489 cartoons 594 Church 349-50 41, 528 travel seasons 470 cathedrals, see churches St Paul’s Church 220-1 Bandar Seri Begawan 477 visas 489 & cathedrals St Peter’s Church 226 Kota Belud 344

B-E weather 470 cats 403 cinema 592-3, see also films Labuan 391-2  women travellers 489 caves 27 clanhouses 163 Miri 448  586-7 Agop Batu Tulug 360 climate 20, 28-9, see also Pulau Kapas 306 individual regions Buddhist Batu Caves 17, 110-11, 17 Pulau Langkawi 202 climate change 610 Buddha Tooth Relic Clearwater Cave 456 Pulau Perhentian 296-7 clothing 22 Temple 501 Dabong 295 responsible diving 43 clouded leopards 524, Dhammikarama Burmese Deer Cave 456, 531, 530 safety 617 Buddhist Temple 170 524-5 Fairy Cave 426 Semporna Dharma Realm Guan Yin clubs 549 Archipelago 373 Gomantong Caves 360-1 Sagely 62 coffin caves 360 Tanjung Datu National Great Cave 445, 446 Kek Lok Si Temple 186 586-7 Park 429 Gua Charas 268 Kong Meng San conservation, see environ- Tioman Island 257, 256-8 Gua Kelam 216 Phor Kark See mental issues Tip of Borneo 345 Gua Tempurung 136 Monastery 514 consulates 604-5 tours 322-4 Kek Look Tong 130 Puh Toh Tze Buddhist cooking courses 45, 71, drama 591 Temple 321-2 Lang Cave 456 226-7, 288, 323 drinking & nightlife see Puu Jih Syh Temple 349 Langang Cave 457 Kuching 405 individual locations Sam Poh Temple 139 Painted Cave 445 Penang 171 drinks, see food Sin Sze Si Ya Temple 63 Perak Tong 130, 26 Singapore 522 driving see car travel 66-7 Pungiton Caves 387 coral 528, 528-9 driving licences 613 Tumpat 294 Sam Poh Tong 130 costs 21 Singapore 563 Buppharam 171 Sleeping Buddha courses, see also individual durian 49, 48 Cave 268 locations 169-70 Taman Negeri Perlis 216 batik 71, 270, 288 Wat Nikrodharam 212 Wind Cave (Bau) 425-6 cooking 45, 71, 171, 226- E budgeting 21, 604, 605 Wind Cave (Gunung Mulu 7, 288, 323, 405, 522 East Coast Malaysia, see Peninsular Brunei Darussalam 488-9 National Park) 456 crabs 547 Malaysia’s Northeast, Singapore 559, 560 caving 40-1, 426, 457 crafts 27, 594 Pahang, Tioman Island cell phones 20 Bukit Fraser 112-15, 113 Crazy Rich Asians 593 economy 567 cemeteries Bukit Larut 158 credit cards 606 ecosystems 532 Bukit 226 Bukit Tambun 191 Singapore 560 electricity 602, 604 Chinese Cemetery bumiputra 576 crocodiles 443 Singapore 559 (Sandakan) 349 bus travel 610-11, 612 culture 580-5 elephants 273, 527 business hours 21, 606 Japanese Cemetery currency 20, 606 (Sandakan) 349 embassies 604-5 Singapore 560 Brunei Darussalam 488 Labuan War Brunei Darussalam 489 butterflies 67, 190, 531 Singapore 560 Cemetery 391 Singapore 559 Butterworth 185 customs regulations 604 Protestant Cemetery 169 emergencies 21 Singapore 559 char kway teow 86 language 622 cycling 37, 612 C Cherating 270-2, 271 Emergency 574 Kuala Lumpur 70-1 Cameron Highlands 12, children, travel with 72, Endau-Rompin National 138-45, 140, 12 604, 618-19 Park 252-3, 253 accommodation 141-3 Chiling Waterfalls 114 D ntertainment, see individ- drinking 143-5 China House 178 Dabong 295 ual locations food 143-5 Chinatown dams 598-9 environmental issues 596- 600, 610 information 144-5 Kuala Lumpur 62-3, dangers, see safety websites 597, 598, 600 sights 139-41 73-6, 82-93, 98-9, 102 dance 591 etiquette 23, 46 tours 141 Kuala Terengganu 309-10 Danum Valley Conservation Kuching 401-2, 403 Area 367-9 Eurasian people 581-2 Melaka City 224-5 Darul Hana Bridge 395 events, see festivals & Map Pages 000 events Chinese opera 592 Dayak people 582-3 Photo Pages 000 exchange rates 21 Chinese people 580 deforestation 596-7 631 F Genting Highlands 111-12 Maliau Basin Conserva- Rumah Penghulu Abu fasting 50 geography 596 tion Area 382 Seman 61 festivals & events 17, 28-9, geology 334-5 Matang Wildlife Sandakan Memorial see also music festivals, George Town 12, 24, 162- Centre 425 Park 348-9 individual locations, 85, 164-5, 168, 170, 12 Mt Kinabalu 335-9 St Francis’ Institution Melaka 221 individual festivals accommodation 173-6 Niah National Park 445

Stadthuys 219-20 INDEX Islamic 587 drinking & nightlife 180-1 Penang National Park 189 Teck Soon Heritage films 566, 577 entertainment 181-2 preparation 278 House 309-10 fireflies 120, 314 food 177-80 Pulau Perhentian 297-8 TT5 Tin Dredge 137 fish 528 internet access 183 safety 38, 258, 278, 367  F-I Villa Sentosa 225  flying foxes 527, 527 medical services 183 Similajau National Park 443 history 569-79 folk medicine 619 money 183 Sungai Kinabatangan 362 books 570, 571, 573, 575, food 23, 83-92, 10-11, postal services 183 Taman Negara 276-7 577, 578 23, 83-92, see also shopping 182-3 cooking courses, indi- Tanjung Datu National Borneo 572 sights 162-71 vidual foods, individual Park 429 bumiputra 576 tourist information 183 locations Tioman Island 258 Dutch rule 570-1 travel to/from 183-4 blogs 80 tours 322-4 East Company 571 travel within 184-5 budgeting 605 Ulu Temburong National Emergency 574 Burmese 539 walking tour 168, 168 Park 488 ethnic tensions etiquette 46 gibbons 524 Hindu temples 574, 575 food courts 545 Gillman Barracks 516 Arulmigu Rajamariam- GE13 578 language 621-2 Golden Mile Complex 539 man Devasthanam 241 Kedah 195 street food 11, 45-50, 179 golf 519 Arulmigu Sri Rajakaliam- Kuala Lumpur 57 Free Tree Society 96 Gopeng 136-8 man 241 lost flights 578-9 fruit 49 government 579 Sri Mahamariamman Melaka 218-19 guesthouses 603 Temple 63 Melaka Empire 570 Gunung Bengoh 426 Sri Mariamman Penang 161-2 Temple 171 G Gunung Mulu National Park Perak 129 gado gado 380 Sri Poyatha Venayagar 455-61, 39 Portuguese rule 570-1 galleries 26-7, see also Moorthi Temple 225 museums, street art Sri Srinivasa Perumal Sabah 334 Art Porters 503 H Temple 505-6 Sarawak 395 Bank Negara Malaysia Hari Raya Aidil Fitri 473 Sri Subramaniam Selangor & Negeri Museum & Art hawker stalls, see street Thuropathai Amman Sembilan 110 Gallery 69 food Alayam 226 Singapore 491 Batik Painting Museum health 615-19 Sri Vadapathira Kaliam- websites 574, 576 Penang 165-6 websites 615 man Temple 504-5 WWII 573 Galeri Petronas 61 heat 617 Sri Veeramakaliamman hitching 613 Temple 504 Gillman Barracks 516 hepatitis 616 HIV 616 587 Hin Bus Depot 169 high tea 540 holidays 606-7 historic buildings & sites ILHAM 57 hiking 15, 36-7, 38 Brunei Darussalam 489 8 Heeren Street 225 Junglebluesdream Art Bako National Park Singapore 560-1 Gallery 462 417-18 Astana 404 homestays 364 Kampong Ayer Cultural Batang Ai National Balai Besar 212 honey 140-1 & Tourism Gallery 473 Balai Nobat 212 Park 431 hor fun 86 National Gallery Singa- Batu Bersurat 147 Bukit Fraser 112-13 hornbills 527, 526 pore 19, 497, 19 Blue Mansion 162-3 Cameron Highlands 139 hostels 603 National Visual Arts Bukit Malawati 120 Danum Valley Conserva- hotels 603 Gallery 67-9 tion Area 367-8 167 Perakanan Photo guides 458, 464 Hock Teik Cheng Sin Gallery 310 Gunung Gading National Temple 166 I 319 Park 427-8 Kota Belanda 147 Ibrahim, Anwar 566, 577-8 Sekeping Tenggiri 67 Gunung Mulu National Loke Mansion 69 ikan patin 88 Zheng He Duo Yun Park 455-9 Master Mat’s House 97 Imbak Canyon Conserva- Xuan 225 Kelabit Highlands 466-7 Old Court House tion Area 359 gardens, see parks & Kuala Lipis 281 Complex 400 Indian people 581 gardens Kubah National Park 424 Old KL Train Station 67 influenza 616 Gardens by the Bay 491, Lambir Hills National Pinang Peranakan insurance 605 496-7, 26 Park 447 Mansion 163-4 internet access 605 gay travellers, see LGBT+ Limbang Division 468 Porta de Santiago 224 travellers Singapore 559 632 internet resources, 437-9, 438 travel to/from 330-1 money 413 see websites kari kepala ikan 90 travel within 331 police 413 Ipoh 129-36, 132-3 kayaking 41-3 Kota Tinggi 248 postal services 413 accommodation 131-3 Kebun-Kebun Bangsar 96 Kuala Besut 302 safety 412 activities 131 Kecil 300-3 Kuala Kangsar 150-3, 152 shopping 411-12 drinking & nightlife 135 Kedah 52, 193-4, 194-215, Kuala Kedah 214-15 sights 395-404 INDEX INDEX food 133-5 194 Kuala Keniam 279 tourist information 413 shopping 135 climate 193 114 tours 405 sights 130 food 87 Kuala Lipis 281-2 travel to/from 413-14 I-M tours 131 highlights 194 Kuala Lumpur 18, 51, 56- travel within 415  travel to/from 135-6 history 195 107, 58-9, 60, 64-5, 68, visas 413 travel within 136 travel seasons 193 70, 74-5, 78, 18, 90-1 Kuching Wetlands National Islam 567, 570, 586 weather 193 accommodation 56, Park 421 Islamic festivals 587 Kelabit Highlands 15, 72-9, 105 Kudat 344-5 islands 27, see also Pulau 461-8, 15 activities 69-71 kuih 85 entries Kelantan 285-94 climate 56 itineraries 30-5, 30, 31, Keningau 386 courses 71-2 L 32, 33, 34-5 Kenong Rimba State drinking & nightlife 97 Lahad Datu 365-7 Singapore 497 Park 282 entertainment 100-1 language 20, 23, 620-4 kerangas 532 festivals & events 72 Layang Layang 347-8, kidnappings 376 food 56, 79-82, 91, 93-7 42 J Lee Kuan Yew 567 Kinabalu National for children 72 Jalan Labi 484-5 leeches 367, 617 Park 334-42 highlights 58-9 jellyfish 203 legal matters 605 Kinabatangan Orangutan history 57 Jerantut 274-5, 275 Brunei Darussalam 489 Conservation Project 361 immigration 104 Jerudong 476 Singapore 559 Kinabatangan River 360-5 internet access 104 Johor 52, 239-53, 240 legends 204 Kinta Valley 137 itineraries 62 accommodation 239 Legoland 243 Klang 118-20 LGBT+ travellers 100 climate 239 Valley 24, 151 Kota Belud 344 media 104 food 89, 239 leopards 524 Kota Bharu 19, 285-93, medical services 104 highlights 240 , lesbian travellers, see 289 19 money 104 travel seasons 239 accommodation 288-90 LGBT+ travellers postal services 104 weather 239 courses 288 LGBT+ travellers 100, 605-6 shopping 101-4 Johor Bahru 24, 240-6, 242 drinking & nightlife 292 Brunei Darussalam 489 sights 57-69 Night Market festivals & events 288 Singapore 551 tourist information 104 18, 18 food 290-2 libraries travel seasons 56 jungles 524 information 292 National Library travel to/from 104-5 shopping 292 (Singapore) 500 travel within 105-7 sights 285-8 lice 617-18 K weather 56 tours 288 Limbang Division 468-9 Kampong Ayer 17, 472-3, 17 Kuala Perkai 279 travel to/from 292 literature 590-1, see Kampung Air Batang Kuala Pilah 123-4 also books 259, 260 travel within 293 Kuala Selangor 120-1 Long Pasia 385 Kampung Baru 97 Kota Kinabalu 318-31, 320, Kuala Sepetang 157-8 longhouses 15, 583, Kampung Benuk 423 85, 92 Kuala Terengganu 307- 603-4, 15 Kampung Genting 259, 262 accommodation 324-6 14, 308 Annah Rais Longhouse Kampung Juara 259, 261 activities 322-4 Kuantan 265-9, 266 422-3 cuisine 326 Kampung Kuala Tahan 278-9 Kubah National Park 423-5 Bario Asal Longhouse 461 drinking & nightlife 328-9 Kampung Mukut 259, 262 Kuching 14, 395-415, Batang Rejang basin 444 emergencies 329 Kampung Nipah 259, 262 398-9, 14 Bawang Assan Long- Kampung Papan 137 food 326-8 accommodation 406-8 house Village 432 Kampung Paya 259, 262 immigration 329 activities 404-5 Belaga 439 Kampung Pulau laundry 329 drinking & nightlife 411 Labi Longhouses 484-5 Betong 190-2 medical services 329 embassies & Lundu 426-7 Kampung Salang 259, 260-1 money 329 consulates 412 Kampung Tekek 259-60 postal services 329 emergencies 412 Kangar 215-16 shopping 329 M festivals & events 405-6 macaques 418 sights 318-22 food 408-11 Mah Meri Cultural Village 119 Map Pages 000 tourist information laundry 412-13 329-30 malaria 616 Photo Pages 000 medical services 413 tours 322-4 Malay people 580 633 Maliau Basin 383 sights 219-26 Masjid Negeri Cheng Ho Cultural Maliau Basin Conservation tours 227 Sembilan 122 Museum 225 Area 382-3 travel to/from 236-7 Masjid Selat Melaka 219 Chetti Museum 226 mangroves 532 travel within 237 Masjid Sultan Ahmad Chinatown Heritage maps 606 memorials, see monu- Shah 265 Centre 501 Marang 315 ments & memorials, Masjid Sultan Salahuddin Chinese Heritage

Marina Bay Sands 499 WWII sites & memorials Abdul Aziz Shah 117 Museum 241 INDEX Masjid Tengku Tengah Chinese History markets 19, 102, 84-5, 86-7 Merang 314 Zaharah 310 Museum 400 Bangsar Sunday Mersing 248-50, 249 Masjid Ubudiah 151 Dusun Museum 385

Market 93 Minangkabau people 124  M

 Masjid Zahir 211 Forestry Museum 485 Bau 426 Miri 448-55, 450 Omar Ali Saifuddien Former Ford Factory 24, Bazaar Baru Chow Kit 102 mobile phones 20 17, 472, 17, 589 513-14 Chinatown Wet Mohamad, Mahathir 566, 115 404 Market 102 575-6, 579 Semporna Mosque 370 Fort Siloso 517 George Town 176 money 20, 21, 606 Sultan Abu Bakar 437 Jonker Walk Night bargaining 23 Mosque 241 Galeri Diraja Sultan Market 18, 18 Brunei Darussalam 488 Sultan Mosque 507 Abdul Aziz 118 Kapit 437 exchange rates 21 Tuanku Mizan Zainal Galeri Sultan Abdul Kota Kinabalu 318 Singapore 560 115 Halim 212 Kuala Terengganu 309 tipping 23 Zainal Abidin Mosque 310 Galeria Perdana 199 Kuching 404, 410 monkeys 356, 389, 418, mosquitoes 280 House of Yeap Chor Masjid India Pasar 524, 525 motorcycle travel 612-13 Ee 166 Malam 93 monuments & memorials mountain climbing 37-40, Images of Singapore Melaka City 232 Billionth Barrel 335-9 Live 518 Miri 448 Monument 485 Mt Kinabalu 13, 334-42, Indian Heritage Pudu Market 102 German Girl 511 532, 337, 340, 13, 532 Centre 503-4 Pulau Langkawi 208 Great Cat of Kuching 403 accommodation 339-41 Interpretation Centre (Bako National Singapore 505, 511 Kota 199 climbing 335-9 Park) 416 massage Kranji War Memorial 517 flora & fauna 339 Singapore 519-21 Kucing Kucing 403 Interpretation Centre food 341 (Matang Wildlife media 595 War Memo- geology 334-5 Centre) 425 medical services 615 rial 342 history 334 Interpretation Centre Melaka Malay Sultanate medicine, traditional 619 planning 335 (Similajau National Water Wheel 221 mee jawa 380 travel to/from 341-2 Park) 443 Memorial Stone 388 mee rebus 88-9 Mt Trusmadi 385-6 Islamic Arts Museum 63 National Monument 66 megaliths Muar 246-8 Islamic Heritage Bario 463 Pialungan Sanda- Museum 402 kan- Death Muhammad V, Sultan 568 Istana Batu 288 Pengkalan Kempas March Memorial 342 multiculturalism 584 Megalith Site 125 Istana Heritage Sunsuron Guritom 385 murals 24, 247, 501, see Melaka 18, 52, 217-38, Gallery 509 Tom Harrisson also street art 218, 18 Istana Jahar 285 Monument 462 museums 26, see also accommodation 217 Istana Kenangan 151-2 25 galleries climate 217 Istana Lama 124 Abdul Gafoor 348 entertainment 24 Mosque 505 Art Museum 403 Katong Antique House 511 food 89, 217 City Mosque (Kota Asia Camera Museum 166 Klang Fire Station 118 highlights 218 Kinabalu) 319-20 Asian Civilisations history 218-19 Indian Mosque 402 Museum 497-8 Komik Asia 169 travel seasons 217 Masjid A R Rahman Baba House 501 Kompleks Muzium Negeri Terengganu 310 weather 217 Pulau Perhentian 296 Baba & Nyonya Heritage Labuan Marine Melaka City 219-37, 220, Masjid Diraja Sultan Museum 224-5 Museum 390-1 222-3 Suleiman 118 Bank Negara Malaysia Labuan Museum 390 accommodation 228-30 Masjid Jamek Sultan Museum & Art Laman Padi 195 activities 226 Abdul Samad 62 Gallery 69 Lau King Howe Memorial drinking & nightlife 233-4 Masjid Kampung Battlebox 498 Hulu 225 Museum 432 entertainment 234 Brunei Darussalam Masjid Kampung Maritime Museum 475 Lee Kong Chian Natural festivals & events 227-8 Kling 225 Brunei Museum 474-5 History Museum food 230-3 515-16 Masjid Kapitan Cathay Gallery 509 information 236 Lenggong Archaeological Keling 167-9 Changi Museum & Gallery 151 shopping 234-6 Masjid Negara 67 Chapel 510 634 museums continued Sarawak Cultural Habitat, the 186 Negeri Sembilan 51, 108-9, Limbang Regional Village 419-20 Imbak Canyon Conserva- 121-6, 109 Museum 468 Sarawak Museum 402 tion Area 359 accommodation 108 Mahathir’s Birthplace 212 Sarawak Textile Kenong Rimba State climate 108 Malay Heritage Museum 401 Park 282 food 91, 108 Centre 507 Sibu Heritage Centre 432 Kilim Karst Geoforest highlights 109

INDEX INDEX Park 198-9 Malay Technology Singapore City history 110 Museum 473-4 Gallery 503 Kinabalu National Park travel seasons 108 Mari Mari Cultural Sultan Azlan Shah 334-42 weather 108 Village 319 Gallery 151 Kubah National Park M-P newspapers 602  Maritime Museum & Sultanate Palace 224 423-5 Singapore 561 Naval Museum 220 Teochew Puppet & Opera Kuching Wetlands  Monsopiad Cultural House 166 National Park 421 notable buildings, see also historic buildings Village 320-1 music 591-2 Labrador Nature & sites Mulu Discovery music festivals Reserve 516 318 Centre 455 Borneo Jazz 449 Labuan Marine Park 391 Museum of Islamic Lambir Hills National Bangunan Sultan Jazz Ibrahim 241 Civilisation 321 Festival 187 Park 447 Emerald Hill Road 507-9 Muzium Darul Rainforest World Music Luagan Lalak Recreation Heritage District (Johor Ridzuan 130 Festival 406 Park 484 Muzium Diraja Kedah 212 MacRitchie Reservoir 514 Bahru) 241 Muzium Islam 285 Maliau Basin Conserva- Istana Kehakiman 115-16 Muzium Kota Kayang 215 N tion Area 382-3 Kampung Baru Gateway 69 Muzium Negeri 212 nasi kerabu 89 Niah National Park 445-7 King George V School 122 Muzium Negeri nasi kuning 380 Penang National Park 189 Kelanta 285 National Gallery Pulau Selirong Recrea- Kompleks Perdadanan Putrajaya 116 Muzium Negeri Singapore 19, 19 tional Park 487 Sembilan 121-2 national parks & nature Pulau Tiga National Kuching North City Hall 404 Muzium Padi 214 reserves 25, 27, 40 Park 389 Menara Alor Setar 211 Muzium Perak 153 Bako National Park Rainforest Discovery 416-19 Menara Kuala Lumpur 62 National Museum Centre 355-6 (Malaysia) 63 Batang Ai National Royal Belum State Petronas Towers 57 Park 431 National Museum of Park 158-9 Putrajaya Convention Singapore 498 Bukit Gemok Forest Similajau National Centre 116 Reserve 378 Natural History Park 443-5 Raffles Hotel 498 Museum 403 Bukit Mas Nature Soga Perdana Recrea- Sarawak State Reserve 468 Niah Archaeology tional Forest 248 Assembly 404 Museum 445 Bukit Patoi Recreational Southern Ridges 515 State Library Park 486 NUS Museum 515 Sungai Bantang Recrea- (Seremban) 122 Bukit Timah Nature Oil & Gas Discovery tional Forest 248 Reserve 514 Centre 485 Talang-Satang National Cape Rachado Forest Park 430-1 O Pahang Art Museum 265 Omar Ali Saifuddien Reserve 125 Taman Alam Kuala Penang Museum 167 Mosque 17, 472, 17, 589 Chek Jawa Wetlands 511 Selangor 120 Peranakan Museum 498 opening hours 21, 606 Crocker Range National Taman Negara 276-81 Petroleum Museum Singapore 560 Park 384 Taman Negeri Perlis 216 (Miri) 448 people 582 Danum Valley Conserva- Taman Tugu 24 61 tion Area 367-9 orangutans 14, 354, 355, Tambunan Rafflesia Ranee Museum 24, 400 425, 524, , Deramakot Forest Reserve 384-5 14 524 Red Dot Design Museum Reserve 359-60 24, 499 Tampat Do Aman Nature Endau-Rompin National Reserve 345 Royal Abu Bakar Park 252-3 P Museum 241 Tanjung Datu Pahang 53, 254-83, 255 Forest Research Institute National Park 429-30 Royal Museum 67 Malaysia 111 accommodation 254 Tanjung Piai National climate 254 Royal Regalia Gunung Gading Park 248 Museum 472 National Park 427-9 food 89, 254 Tawau Hills Park 381-2 Rungus Museum 345 Gunung Ledang National highlights 255 Teluk Bahang Forest Park 247 travel seasons 254 318-19 Reserve 189-90 Gunung Mulu weather 254 SAM at 8Q 500 Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park 455- National Park 332-4 painting 593 61, 39 Map Pages 000 Ulu Temburong National palaces Gunung Stong State Photo Pages Park 487-8 124-5 000 Park 295 635 Istana Iskandariah 152 Pasir Bogak 148, 149-50 Brunei regions 51-4 Pulau Pangkor 24, 145- Istana Kenangan 151-2 passports 608 repeat visitors 24 50, 146 Istana Lama 124 Pekan 264-5, 265 travel seasons 20 Pulau Pemanggil 251-2 311 Pelabuhan Klang 118-20 websites 21 Pulau Perhentian 13, 295- 303, 528, , Istana Nurul Iman 473, Penang 52, 160-92, 161, plants 339 296 13 475-6 86-7 politics 566, 568, 585 Pulau Pom Pom 378 palm-oil plantations 597-8 accommodation 160, pollution 617 Pulau Rawa 251 INDEX Pa’Lungan 464-5 173-6 population 567 Pulau Redang 303-6, 528 pan mee 90 climate 160 Port Dickson 125-6 Pulau Sapi 333

Pangkor Laut 149 courses 171 postal services 606 Pulau Satang Besar 430  P-S Pangkor Town 150 festivals & events 172-3 Pulau Selingan 358  Brunei Darussalam 489 Pantai Cenang 195 food 87, 160 Singapore 560 Pulau Sibu 250-1 Pantai Kok 197-8 highlights 161 proboscis monkeys 356, Pulau Sipadan 11, 11 Pantai Tengah 196-7 history 161-2 389, 524 Pulau Sulug 334 parks & gardens 27, see tours 171-2 Pulau Aman 191 Pulau Talang-Talang 430 also national parks & travel seasons 160 Pulau Aur 251-2 Pulau Tinggi 251 nature reserves weather 160 Pulau Banggi 347 Pulau Tioman, see Tioman Art & Garden by Fuan Penang Hill 185-6 Pulau Berhala 358 Island Wong 189 Penarik 314 Pulau Besar 238, 250 Pulau Ubin 511 Botanical Garden (Kina- Peninsular Malaysia’s public holidays, see holidays balu National Park) 342 Pulau Bidong 310, 314, 528 Northeast 53, 284-315, Putrajaya 115-17 Botanical Gardens Pulau Carey 119 286-7 (Penang) 186 Pulau Dayang 251-2 pygmy elephants 527, 526 accommodation 284 Chestnut Park 514 Pulau Duyung 310-11 climate 284 China-Malaysia Friend- Pulau Gaya 333 food 284 Q ship Garden 115 Pulau Kapalai 377 quays, Singapore 500 East Coast Park 510-11 highlights 286-7 Pulau Kapas 306-7 Entopia by Penang travel seasons 284 119 Butterfly Farm 190 weather 284 Pulau Labuan 390-3 R rabies 616 Fort Canning Park 499 people 580-5, see also Pulau Lang Tengah 304 individual peoples radio 602 Gardens by the Bay 491, Pulau Langkawi 18, 52, Perak 51, 127-59, Raffles, Stamford 571 496-7, 26 128 193-4, 195-211, 194, Kebun-Kebun Bangsar 96 climate 127 196-7, 200, 18 rafflesia 384, 531, 530 KL Forest Eco Park 62 food 87, 127 accommodation 193, rafting, see white-water KLCC Park 57 highlights 128 202-6 rafting Lake Gardens 122 history 129 activities 195-201 rainbow toads 531, 530-1 Lake Gardens - Tun Abdul travel seasons 127 climate 193 Ramadan 50, 489 Razak Heritage Park 67 weather 127 drinking & nightlife 209 Ranau 342 Marina Barrage 499-500 Peranakan people 581 festivals & events 202 Raub 282-3 Melaka Botanical Perlis 52, 193-4, 215-16, 194 food 193, 206-9 Razak, Najib 577, 579 Garden 237 climate 193 highlights 194 religion 586-9 Miri City Fan 448 food 87 internet access 210 resorts 131, 262-3 Monkeycup@Penang highlights 194 legends 204 responsible travel 600 Hill 186 travel seasons 193 medical services 210 resthouses 604 Orchid Garden 404 weather 193 money 210 rhinos 527 Perdana Botanical Petaling Jaya 117-18 shopping 209-10 Riau Archipelago Garden 67 Petronas Towers 57 sights 195-201 (Indonesia) 562 Rejang Esplanade 432 photography 606 tourist information 210 rice, Bario 466 Singapore Botanic River of Life project 63 Gardens 509-10 pineapples 466 tours 201-2 rivers 599 Taman Botani 115 planning 22-3 travel seasons 193 road rules 613 Taman Peranginan budgeting 21 travel to/from 210 rock climbing 37-40 Tasek 476 calendar of events 28-9 travel within 210-11 Romol Eco Village 387 Taman Tamadu Islam 310 checklist 22 weather 193 roti prata Taman Tasik Taiping 153 family travel 72, 604, Pulau Lankayan 359 91 Taman Tugu 63-6 618-19 Pulau Libaran 359 Taman Wetland 115 itineraries 30-5, 30, 31, Pulau Mabul 376 S , Tanjung Emas Park 247 32 33 Pulau Mamutik 332-3 Sabah 53, 316-93, 317 Malaysia, Singapore & Titiwangsa Lake Pulau Mantanan 346-7 accommodation 316 Brunei basics 20-1 Gardens 69 Pulau Manukan 332 art scene 319 Malaysia, Singapore & Tropical Spice Garden 189 Pulau Mataking 377-8 636 Sabah continued food 91, 108 newspapers 561 Sultan of Brunei 473 climate 316 highlights 109 opening hours 560 sun bears 355 driving tour 332 history 110 politics 585 sunburn 618 food 92, 316 travel seasons 108 postal services 560 Sungai Kinabatangan 360-5 highlights 317 weather 108 Quays 500 Sungai Klias 389 history 334 Seletar Aerospace Park shopping 555-9 Sungai Lembing 268 INDEX INDEX people 583 24, 546 sights 491-518 Supertrees 491, 496-7, 26 travel seasons 316 Sematan 428 smoking 561 surfing 43 weather 316 Semporna 370-1, 372 telephone services 561 Cherating 270 S-T safety 607, 613 Semporna Archipelago time 561 Sabah 345  371-8 crocodiles 443 toilets 561 safety 617  hiking 38, 258 Sentosa Island 517-18, 538, tourist information 561 swiftlets 361, 446 547-8, 553-4, jellyfish 203 518 tours 522 swimming Sepilok 354-8, Johor Bahru 244 356 travel seasons 490 Singapore 521 kidnappings 376 Seremban 121-3, 123 travel to/from 561 mosquitoes 280 Seria 485 travel within 562-4 T Sepilok Orangutan Seribuat Archipelago 250-2 visas 561 Tabin Wildlife Reserve Rehabilitation shadow puppets 591 walking tour 520, 520 369-70 Centre 354 Shah Alam 117-18 weather 490 Taiping 153-7, Tioman Island 258 154 shopping 27, see also weights & measures 561 salt 466 individual locations walking tour 156, 156 Singlish 623 Taman Negara 16, 276-81, Sandakan 348-53, 350 language 622 Siniawan Night Market 410 277, 16 accommodation 351 Sibu 432-6, 435 Sipadan 376, 528 Taman Rekreasi Gunung drinking & nightlife 352-3 silat 25 skin protection 618 Lang 131, 523 food 351-2 Singapore 54, 490-564, snakes 618 Tambunan 384-5 information 353 492-3, 494-5, 502-3, snorkelling, see diving & Tanah Rata 141-4, 142 sights 348-50 506, 508, 512, 518, 85 snorkelling Tanjung Aru 328 tours 350-1 accessible travel 559 soto makassar 380 Tanjung Gemok 264 travel to/from 353 accommodation 490, 533-8, 559 spas Tanjung Rhu 198-9 travel within 353 airport hotels 537 Gunung Mulu National Tanjung Sipang Mengayu Sandakan Archipelago Park 455 345-6 358-9 budgeting 559, 560 Kinabalu National 586-7 Sandakan Death business hours 560 Park 342 Taoist temples, see temples Marches 349 climate 490 Kuala Lumpur 69-71 tapirs 527, 526 Santubong Peninsula courses 522 Melaka City 226 419-22 Tasik Chini 273, 599 customs regulations 559 Penang 187 Sarawak 15, 53, 394-469, Tasik Kenyir 315 discounts 559 Pulau Langkawi 195, 396-7 drinking & nightlife 196-7, 199 Tawau 378-81, 379 accommodation 394 548-54 Singapore 519-21 taxes 556 climate 394 drinks 548 speakeasies 181, 550 taxis 613 food 92, 394 electricity 559 Sri Menanti 124-5 taxis, long distance 614 highlights 396-7 embassies & statues, see monuments tea plantations history 395 consulates 559 & memorials Boh Sungei Palas Tea people 583 entertainment 554-5 strawberries 141 Estate 144 travel seasons 394 environmental issues 600 street art Boh Tea Garden 141 weather 394 festivals & events 522-33 George Town 172 Gaharu Tea Valley 137 Sarawak Cultural Village food 91, 490, 538-48, 560 Kota Bharu 288 Sabah Tea Garden 342 419-20 highlights 492-3 Kuala Lumpur 99 Tekka Centre 543 Sarawak Museum history 491 Melaka 227 telephone services 607 Campus 402 holidays 560-1 Singapore 501 Brunei Darussalam 489 scenery 25 internet access 559 street festivals 173 Singapore 561 sculpture 593 itineraries 497 street food 11, 45-50, 179 television 602 Selangor 51, 108-9, 110- language 623 Brickfields Street 94 Teluk Bahang 188-90 21, 109 legal issues 559 Jalan Alor 81 Teluk Datai 198 accommodation 108 LGBT+ travellers 551 Kota Kinabalu 327 Teluk Kumbar 192 climate 108 magazines 561 Pudu 82 Teluk Nipah 147-8, 149 media 595 street names, George Temburong 485-8 Map Pages 000 medical services 560 Town 184 Temerloh 273 Photo Pages 000 money 560 Sukau 362-3 temple caves 130 637 temples 25, see also diving 322-4 W National Elephant Con- Buddhist temples, wildlife-watching 324 walking, see hiking servation Centre 273 Hindu temples traditional medicine 619 walking tours Penarik Firefly Cheng Hoon Teng train travel 331, 614 Sanctuary 314 Temple 225 George Town 168, 168 transit hotels 105, 537 Semenggoh Wildlife Foo Lin Kong 147 Singapore 520, 520 Centre 422 transport 610-14 Taiping 156, 156

Hiang Thian Siang Sepilok Orangutan INDEX Temple 402 language 624 wasps 618 Rehabilitation Centre Hin Ho Bio 402 travel advisories 607 water parks 14, 354 Ho Ann Kiong 309 travel cards 107 Adventure Cove Sungei Buloh Wetland T-Z  Hock Teik Cheng Sin travel to/from Malaysia, Waterpark 521-2 Reserve 516-17

 Temple 166 Singapore & Brunei Singapore Wake Park 521 Tabin Wildlife Reserve 610-11 401 Wave House 522 369-70 travel within Malaysia, water, tap 618 wildlife smuggling 597 Johor Bahru Old Chinese Singapore & Brunei 21, Temple 241 waterfalls wildlife watching 27, 41, see 611-14 also bird-watching Kuan Yin Teng 169 Chiling Waterfalls 114 trekking, see hiking Bako National Park Lian Shan Shuang Lin Durian Perangin 199 Tringgus 426 417, 418 Monastery 514 Gunung Gading National trishaws 25, 237, 564, 613-14 Cherating 270 Lin Je Kong Temple 147 Park 428 Tuaran 343-4, 42 Kampung Kuantan 120 Sam Poh Footprint Lata Iskandar 139 Tumpat 294 Maliau Basin Conserva- Temple 192 Mahua Waterfall 385 Tunku Abdul Rahman tion Area 382 San Ching Tian Takah Berangin Falls 253 Temple 448 National Park 332-4 Pulau Pangkor 148 Takah Pandan Falls 253 Thian Hock Keng turtles 528, 528-9 Softwoods Plantation Telaga Tujuh 197 Temple 501 Tutong 484 24, 378 Temurun Waterfall 198 Tiang Yun Dian Chinese TV 602 tours 324 Temple 473 typhoid 616 Upeh Guling Falls 252-3 Zoo Negara 111 Temple weather 20, 28-9 women in Malaysia, 402, 432, 448 Brunei Darussalam 479 Singapore & Tempurung 388-9 U Singapore 490 Brunei 584-5 Ulu Temburong National Tenom 386-7 websites 21, 568, 590 women travellers 609 Park 487-8 Terengganu 295-315 environmental issues Brunei Darussalam 489 Unesco World Heritage sites 588 597, 598, 600 women’s health 619 central George Town health 615 work 609 theft 607 162-9, 169 history 574, 576 WWII 349 ticks 618 central Melaka 219-24 weights & measures 602 WWII sites & memorials tigers 524, 525 Mt Kinabalu & Kinabalu time 20, 607 National Park 334-42 Singapore 561 Battlebox 498 Brunei Darussalam 489 Singapore Botanic Weston 389 Changi Museum & Chapel 510 language 622 Gardens 509-10 White Rajas 572 Kranji War Memorial 517 Singapore 561 white-water rafting 41-3, 323-4 Kundasang War Tioman Island 14, 53, 254-5, V Beaufort 388 Memorial 342 255-64, 255, 256, 14 vacation, see holidays Kuala Kubu Bharu 114 Pialungan Sandakan- accommodation 254 vaccinations 615 wildlife reserves & Ranau climate 254 Vale Eco Center 145 sanctuaries Memorial 342 food 254 Via Ferrata 338 Borneo Sun Bear Con- Sandakan Memorial highlights 255 viewpoints 25 servation Centre 355 Park 348 travel seasons 254 Menara Taming Sari 221-4 Jurong Bird Park 515 WWII Memorial () 391 weather 254 Pinnacle@Duxton 501-3 Kinta Nature Park 136 Tiong Bahru 505 Signal Hill Observatory KL Bird Park 63-82 Tip of Borneo 345-6 Platform 318 KL Butterfly Park 67 Z tipping 23 Sky Tower 225-6 Kota Kinabalu Wetland Zhongshan building 103 toads 530-1 Top at KOMTAR 171 Centre 319 zoos toilets 607-8 visas 20, 608 Kudat Turtle Conserva- Langkawi Wildlife tourist information 608, see Brunei Darussalam 489 tion Society 345 Park 199 also individual locations Singapore 561 Labuk Bay Proboscis Singapore Zoo 513 tours, see also individual volunteering 258-9, 425, Monkey Sanctuary 356 Zoo Negara 111 locations 608-9 Matang Wildlife Zoo Taiping & Night adventure 322-4 East Coast islands 301 Centre 425 Safari 153-4 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 638

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist /Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro/MRT/MTR station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Skytrain/Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Underground station Entertainment Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Austin Bush Penang; Langkawi, Kedah & Perlis Austin originally went to Thailand in 1999 as part of a language study program hosted by Chiang Mai University. The lure of city life, employment and spicy food eventually led him to Bangkok and have managed to keep him there since. He works as a writer and photographer, and in addition to having contributed to numerous books, magazines and websites, he has contributed text and photos to more than 20 Lonely Planet titles, with a focus on food and . Austin also wrote the Eat Like a Local and Regional Specialties sections of this book. Read more about Austin at: https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/osten_th

Ria de Jong Singapore Ria started life in Asia, born in Sri Lanka to Dutch-Australian parents; she has always relished the hustle and excitement of this continent of contrasts. After growing up in Townsville, , Ria moved to Sydney as a features writer before packing her bags for a five-year stint in the Philippines. Moving to Singa- pore in 2015 with her husband and two small children, Ria is loving discovering every nook and cranny of this tiny city, country, nation. Read more about Ria at: https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/riadejong Damian Harper Melaka; Johor; Pahang & Tioman Island With two degrees (one in modern and classical Chinese from SOAS), Damian has been writing for Lonely Planet for over two decades, covering destinations as diverse as China, Vietnam, Thailand, Ireland, Mallorca, Malaysia, and the UK. A seasoned guidebook writer, Damian also has penned articles for numerous newspapers and magazines, including the Guardian and the Daily Telegraph, and currently makes Surrey, , his home. A self-taught trumpet novice, his other hobbies include collecting modern first editions, photography and taekwondo. Follow Damian on Instagram (damian.harper). Read more about Damian at: https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/damianharper Anita Isalska Perak; Selangor & Negeri Sembilan Anita Isalska is a travel journalist, editor and copywriter. After several merry years as a staff writer and editor – a few of them in Lonely Planet’s London office – Anita now works freelance between San Fran- cisco, the UK and any Baltic bolthole with good wi-fi. Anita specialises in Eastern and Central Europe, Southeast Asia, France and off-beat travel. Read her stuff on www.anitaisalska.com. Read more about Anita at: https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/anitatravels

Anna Kaminski Sabah; Brunei Darussalam Originally from the Soviet Union, Anna grew up in Cambridge, UK. She graduated from the University of Warwick with a degree in Comparative American Studies, a background in the history, culture and litera- ture of the Americas and the Caribbean, and an enduring love of Latin America. Her restless wanderings led her to settle briefly in Oaxaca and Bangkok, and her flirtation with criminal law saw her volunteering as a lawyer’s assistant in the courts, ghettos and prisons of Kingston, Jamaica. Anna has contributed to almost 30 Lonely Planet titles. When not on the road, Anna calls London home. Read more about Anna at: https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/AnnaCohenKaminski AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Simon Richmond Kuala Lumpur Journalist and photographer Simon Richmond has specialised as a travel writer since the early 1990s and first worked for Lonely Planet in 1999 on their Central Asia guide. He’s long since stopped counting the number of guidebooks he’s researched and written for the company, but countries covered include Australia, China, India, Iran, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, Mongolia, Myanmar (Burma), Russia, Singapore, South Africa and Turkey. For Lonely Planet’s website he’s penned features on topics from the world’s best swimming pools to the joys of urban sketch- ing. Simon also wrote most of the Plan Your Trip section and the Understand and Survival Guide sections of this book. Read more about Simon at: https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/simonrichmond

Brett Atkinson Sarawak Brett Atkinson is based in Auckland, New Zealand, but frequently on the road for Lonely Planet. He’s a full-time travel and food writer specialising in ad- venture travel, unusual destinations and surprising angles on more well-known destinations. Craft beer and street food are Brett’s favourite reasons to explore places. He is featured regularly on the Lonely Planet website, and in newspapers, magazines and websites across New Zealand and Australia. Since becoming a Lonely Planet author in 2005, Brett has covered areas as diverse as Vietnam, Sri Lanka, the Czech Republic, New Zealand, Morocco, California and the South Pacific. Read more about Brett at: https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/BrettAtkinson Lindsay Brown Peninsular Malaysia’s Northeast Lindsay started travelling as young bushwalker exploring the Blue Mountains west of Sydney. Then as a marine biologist he dived the coastal and island waters of southeastern Australia. He continued travelling whenever he could while employed at Lonely Planet as an editor and publishing manager. On becoming a freelance writer and photographer he has co-authored over 35 Lonely Planet guides to Australia, Bhutan, India, Malaysia, Nepal, Pakistan and Papua New Guinea. Read more about Lindsay at: https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/lindsayom

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