Voice of the Glacier Park Foundation ■ Spring 2004 ■ Volume XVIII, No. 2 Contents: Glacier Tales: • Lodge Renovations during the ‘50s An Anthology • Jammer Tales •Wrangler Tales •Swiftcurrent Whitewater Tales •Memories of Blackie Dillon • Tabasco Sauce: . . . A Story

The lobbies for the great lodges combined back country spendor with Swiss charm and Native American art. This photo shows the Glacier Park Lodge lobby prior to renovations. The renovations of the 1950’s modernized, increased the economic modernized the grand lodges, increased their economic potentials and focused the themes of each lodge to give each a clearer theme. (Hileman photo courtesy of the Ray Djuff collection.)

The Inside Trail ◆ Spring 2004 ◆ 1 Bulletin Board The Inside Trail welcomes not only I came away from that experience summer, he would return to Two articles but also brief letters and anec- recognizing that when one continually Medicine as gardener and handyman. dotes on Glacier. Here are some which engages in practices that involve danger, Willard had a heavy Norwegian were sent to us recently. one’s judgment clouds and one doesn’t brogue, and referred to the red-bus always recognize when he has crossed drivers as “jeeryammers.” A Brush With Death on Grinnell the line to attempt something he Muriel Nelson (Two Medicine 1937-38) Point should not do. Needless to say, I I was quite interested in the memorial Bagpipes gained a healthy respect for the fragility to Dave Paulus (Winter 2004 issue), How faint and far from cliff and spar of life that afternoon. whom I remember well. The story “A The horns of elfland faintly blowing – John Moffat (Many Glacier 1970) Brush With Death on Mt. Allen” That’s what it seemed like, but this was reminded me of my own closest “Jeeryammers” at Two Medicine not Tennyson’s romantic England, this encounter with death in Glacier Park. I worked as a maid and kitchen assis- was the Many Glacier Hotel and it It was in that same summer of 1970. tant at Two Medicine Chalet during sounded like – bagpipes? People were the Depression. Money was scarce, and One Sunday on my day off, I hiked with rushing out to the balcony, easing out we were glad to have a summer job. In one of my roommates, John Burkitt, up to the boat dock, so I knew I was not our spare time, we hiked to Trick Falls Grinnell Point. We took the normal trail imagining this fantasy. and drove the park roads in a “flivver” up the back spine, but decided to take a with rumble seats. We had a resident Then I saw him, across the lake, standing “short cut” down the east face coming cowboy named Buster who took the on the shore, all alone, serenading … back down since it was getting late. At dudes out to ride on a string of horses himself? The mountains? The evening’s one point we had to inch our way, belly (mostly pretty old). He knew a lot of first star? As the alpenglow faded and the against the rock, across a rock face that western songs, and would sing them at shadows deepened he continued to hold was quite steep. Although I had foot- night, indoors at the fire. us all spellbound. The pipes were wailing holds in most places, I felt myself lovely, lonely tunes. As “Amazing Grace” slipping off. I had to lie totally against The heavy labor at the chalet was done faded away, he too faded back into the the rock and only the friction of my by a man named Willard Bye. Willard pines. Who was he, where did he come clothes against the rock kept me from was homeless during the wintertime, from, and what inspired this magical falling off. Eventually, I was able to which he spent in Minneapolis. Each concert to the night? I don’t know, but it grope my way to another foothold. was one of the most beautiful moments Glacier Park Foundation Officers: of my life. P.O. Box 15641 John Hagen, President Minneapolis, MN 55415 Einar Hanson, First Vice President www.glacierparkfoundation.org Carol Dahle, Vice President - Member- The Inside Trail takes its ship Board of Directors: Mac Willemssen, Secretary name from the famous old Tessie Bundick Tessie Bundick, Historian trail which connected Gla- Laura Chihara Jim Lees, Treasurer cier Park Lodge with the Janet Eisner Cornish Rolf Larson, Inside Trail Editor Carol Repulski Dahle vanished chalets at Two Joyce Daugaard The Glacier Park Foundation was Medicine, Cut Bank, and St. Glen Elvig formed by Glacier Park employees Mary. The name thus em- Lee Flath and visitors who have a deep love David Gilbertson for this special place. The Founda- phasizes the publication’s John Hagen tion is commited both to the focus on the lore and history Einar Hanson importance of wilderness preserva- tion and to the importance of places of Glacier National Park. Paul Hoff like Glacier as classrooms where We invite submission of Mark Hufstetler people can experience wilderness Jeff Kuhn in intense meaningful ways, historical, scientific, or Linda Young Kuhn learning not only a love for the land, anecdotal articles, commen- Rolf Larson but also a respect that nurtures the Leroy Lott skills necessary to preserve that tary, poetry, or artwork for Greg Notess land. The Foundation has a special publication in future issues. Mac Willemssen interest in Glacier Park’s history, traditions and visitor facilities.

2 ◆ Spring 2004 ◆ The Inside Trail The Adventures of Harlan Berntson by Tessie Bundick (Many Glacier 1972- 82) Renovating Glacier’s Lodges: In December of 1956, Harlan heating system at Lake McDonald 1957 - 1959 Berntson, a man with many years needed to be replaced and a bar was experience being a carpenter foreman, required. A vestibule was decided on for Glacier Park Hotel Co. What a sight! was working for Knutson Construction the Prince of Wales and the basement Harlan never had seen mountains Co. of Minneapolis, Minnesota. St. Moritz Room at Many Glacier before, and these were mantled in snow. Knutson Hotel Co. – a branch of the needed work. Sheetrocking, painting, parent organization – had received a and much else were the order of the day Harlan’s wife arrived soon afterward. management contract to renovate the if a buyer was to be found. Their accommodations were a large house on the Glacier Park Lodge golf course. Harlan was to be paid $3.50 It seemed that the tourist of the 1950’s wanted an hour with a guaranteed 48-hour week plus room and board. modern conveniences like private bathrooms, which were rare at these lodges. Renovating Glacier Park Lodge Under the supervision of Roy McLean, Harlan and the crew started work on hotels of Glacier Park (East Glacier Harlan agreed to work as foreman on February 1. They installed walk-in Park Lodge, Many Glacier Hotel, Lake this project under Roy McLean, the coolers and freezers in the kitchen, McDonald Lodge, and the Prince of supervisor. He came out on the train at because theretofore ice had been used Wales) starting in early 1957. the end of January and was met by Cy to refrigerate. Harlan used plans that Stevenson, the chief engineer of the The hotels were not in very good shape had been drawn up by Newton at the time and the Great Northern Railway Co. needed to sell them because they were merging with the Northern Pacific Railroad Co. Accord- ing to the terms of the merger, the Federal government insisted that they divest themselves of all unprofitable subsidiaries except raw land. The Great Northern had built the hotels in the early part of the 20th century and had been running them since. But no one would buy them the way they were and the Great Northern had to get busy – and in a hurry. Many features of the hotels were outdated. Although the buildings were located in stunning Glacier Park, the best guest capacity they could achieve was a paltry fifty per cent. It seemed that the tourist of the 1950’s wanted modern conveniences like private bathrooms, which were rare at these lodges. The electrical systems were in Prior to renovation during the 50’s, the Gift Shop and coffee shop at Glacier poor shape, the kitchens were ancient, Park Lodge was quite small. (Photo courtesy of the James J. Hill Reference and the gift shops were small. The Library, Louis Hill papers.)

The Inside Trail ◆ Spring 2004 ◆ 3 The Adventures of Harlan Berntson continued

Griffith, a private architect from chandise. This proved to be a hit with pots on the hotel’s third floor. These Minneapolis hired by the Knutson Co. the hotel guests and a large sales were used in the early days when guests volume ensued. did not want to leave their rooms and Around March, Mr. McLean went to stumble down the hall to the commu- Many Glacier and left Harlan in charge As soon as the lodge closed after Labor nal bathrooms, especially in the main at East Glacier. A coffee shop was Day, Harlan and his union crew went part of the lodge where this activity was added that summer in the lobby and into the annex to change all the common amongst the guest rooms. So the gift shop was expanded to two and connecting bathrooms into singles in all in all, throughout the hotel, paying one half times its original size. There the 111 guest rooms. Harlan had customers at Glacier Park Lodge all had were problems with having the store advertised for his crew and drew many private bathrooms in their accommoda- fixtures shipped in, so it was agreed of them from Kalispell. They gutted tions after 1957. that the Great Northern would set up a everything that needed to be torn out, The Berntsons initially had been told that Harlan would only work in So all in all, throughout the hotel, paying Glacier until June 1. But the work ran customers at East Glacier Park Lodge all on for month after month, and they had private bathrooms in their didn’t go home until mid-December. accommodations after 1957. By then, almost everything was finished at East Glacier except some painting in the annex. Work eventually had to be cabinet shop in the annex basement. cleaned up the mess and started to suspended because of the cold and was Some very talented workmen were reconstruct. Thirty plumbers had been resumed in the spring. employed, including a glass cutter and subcontracted, all housed at the Lodge. Renovating the Prince of Wales polisher from Kalispell. The glass walls Supplies came in from Kalispell and used in the lobby were cut right on site. Columbia Falls. All the showers, Roy McLean decided not to return to bathroom fixtures, and other plumbing Glacier in 1958. He recommended An electrical supervisor was hired to supplies arrived by train from Spokane Harlan as his successor. Martin Thiede, bring the outdated wiring system up to wholesale houses. Electrical supplies the Knutson Company’s manager, par. were also sent by rail from Spokane. offered Harlan the lead position in the The Great Northern Co. owned its own ongoing renovation process. Harlan Many of the toilets were the old chain transforming facility. They bought accepted. He was told to pick up the pulls and modern ones were installed. power at 13,600 volts and brought it plans, get on the train and make his Harlan tells of finding old chamber down to 440 volts in three phases. But now, with the expansion, the capacity needed to be tripled and heavier wiring was required. Olaf, the painting foreman on the job, was top-notch. He had apprenticed for seven years in Denmark and his skills were excellent. So work continued through the sum- mer with guests in the hotel. Harlan says they did not seem to mind because the lodge seemed to be getting so much nicer. A new gift shop supervisor, Robert Ogren, from Dayton and Co. in the Twin Cities was brought in. He got rid of a lot of the junky tourist items and installed a better quality of mer- Prior to the renovation, light fixtures with Native American pictographs hung in the Prince of Wales lobby (Hileman photo from the Ray Djuff collection.)

4 ◆ Spring 2004 ◆ The Inside Trail way to the Prince of Wales Hotel in Canada. At the Prince, the gift shop needed to be tripled in size and a new vestibule was to be constructed, as was a new front desk, among other things. At East Glacier Park, Harlan was to pick up Mr. Thiede’s 1957 Buick Estate wagon and drive to Canada. He arrived in Waterton and stayed with the chief engineer at the Prince, sleeping on his Chesterfield (sofa). They decided to set up a big heater in the hotel, bring up water and have meals at the house of one of the restaurant men in The orginal staricase from the Prince of Wales Hotel renovated about 1959 town. Harlan was at the Prince for March, April, part of May, and back to create the Windsor Lounge (Photo courtesy of Glacier National Park.) and forth throughout the summer. A The license turned out to be a mixed the money for the job. They knew full chance acquaintance turned out to be blessing, however, because the hotel well that a liquor license would greatly the AAA person in Lethbridge – he told had to have much more done to it to increase the hotel’s revenue and make Harlan to contact him if he needed meet new codes required in establish- the expense most worthwhile. subcontractors or help. ments that were granted the privilege. So Harlan began work. The electrical Subsequently, the AAA man informed For example, the electrical service had supervisor from the U.S. came up once Harlan that the province of Alberta had to be redone, more fire escapes had to in awhile to oversee progress. The just passed a law to allow hotels to have be built and smoke doors also had to Canadian inspectors were extremely liquor licenses. Previously, only clubs be added. The electrical renovation strict, much more so than the U.S. and places like the VFW and Elks alone was to cost $50,000 – quite a lot agents. Once, when an electrical could obtain the precious paper. in 1958. So the Great Northern had inspector was having lunch with Harlan contacted Mr. Thiede and then its head electrical engineer, its head Harlan, he (Harlan) tried to pick up the check but the man refused stating that he could lose his job if he allowed In the Prince’s lobby hung some “western looking” it. When he came for a final look-over, parchment type light fixtures with Native American he had to see that not one cover was pictographs painted on them. The Great Northern missing and that everything was done strictly according to code. He was architect, Newton Griffith, felt that they did not fit the checked on himself. But Harlan did British motif of the hotel and had them sent to Lake such fine work that the Prince of Wales McDonald Lodge where they have been proudly Hotel passed even by these very tough displayed and enjoyed for many years. standards. The Canadian fire inspector was also very particular. Once he came into the Prince and found a smoke door handed the phone over to the AAA electrical supervisor, and its western propped open. He informed Harlan, agent who advised him to send a letter engineer come to the Park to see if the the hotel manager, and the executive to the capital to put in a request for a expense was justified. They were driven housekeeper that if he came again and license quickly as only a few were being to Canada in a limo and the hotel was found such a situation, he would issued. Thiede was so speedy that the inspected (it was very cold!). Harlan evacuate the premises and put a lock Prince was the first facility in southern took them all up to the Elks Club in and chain on the front door! From Alberta to acquire the sought-after Lethbridge where such a good time was then on, no one dared to prop open document. enjoyed that they decided to give him any smoke doors.

The Inside Trail ◆ Spring 2004 ◆ 5 The Adventures of Harlan Berntson continued

The Great Northern also decided to every spring and re-bulbed. When a electric heaters in the lobby between add a vestibule to the front of the switch was thrown, the hoist raised the the columns. The National Park building – mainly for weather reasons. fixture to a given height, where a safety Service owned Lake McDonald and The architect Newton Griffith drew stop locked it into place. The lights in leased it to the Great Northern, so Park plans for this addition, which showed a the dining room were also redone. Service personnel did the inspections. When they saw these rather homely, factory gray devices in that historical Lake McDonald Lodge had had a very rustic place, they decided they just did not fit. So Harlan called in Olaf, the electrical system run by a water wheel. This Danish painting foreman, and asked if system had generated direct (not alternating) he could help. When Harlan returned current for light bulbs of no more than 50 watts. to the lodge three weeks later, Olaf had wood-grained the heaters in such a natural way that the Park Service was new interior vestibule, a new gift shop Renovating Lake McDonald Lodge delighted and so was everyone else. and new front desk. Harlan realized At Lake McDonald Lodge, Harlan and that this work would have to be a close Other tasks at Lake McDonald in- his wife were put up in the caretaker’s match to the existing edifice. Fortu- cluded sheetrocking and painting the cabin. She cooked for thirty men on nately, he decided to go to the rooms, modernizing the kitchen with the crew that winter (‘58-’59). Hy Lethbridge Sash and Door Company new electrical appliances, installing Olson, the Glacier Park Company’s with the plans. The proprietor looked bathrooms in the guest rooms, and purchasing agent, came to discuss the at what Harlan presented, disappeared installing new public restrooms in the food situation. Meat had to be pur- into the back room and inspected some lobby. The gift shop was enlarged and chased from suppliers in Kalispell. Hy of his old plans. He returned and a small bar was installed near the cautioned that the word “steak” must stated that his business had done all the dining room. The Prince of Wales’s not appear on invoices, but that “loins” millwork for the hotel in 1927. So he light fixtures that had been hung at and “rounds” could be purchased. took the job and did beautiful work Lake McDonald in 1958 fit beautifully Butch Rink, the labor supervisor, was a again some thirty years later! in the lobby and added to the special butcher by trade, and with his assis- atmosphere in that charming space. There was also some interior decoration tance the crew ate very well. work that was completed at this time. To complete the modernization of the Lake McDonald Lodge had had a very In the Prince’s lobby hung some hotels, new furniture was purchased for rustic electrical system run by a water “western looking” parchment type light Lake McDonald Lodge as well as for wheel. This system had generated fixtures with Native American picto- East Glacier Park Lodge and Many direct (not alternating) current for light graphs painted on them. The Great Glacier Hotel. This included lobby bulbs of no more than 50 watts. Roy Northern architect, Newton Griffith, pieces as well as beds, mattresses, and McLean and his crew redid the electri- felt that they did not fit the British box springs. cal work in 1957, replacing the ancient motif of the hotel and had them sent to “knob-and-tube” system with new Renovating Many Glacier Hotel Lake McDonald Lodge where they have wiring. When the power line came in, been proudly displayed and enjoyed for Harlan next went to Many Glacier there was electricity everywhere – heat many years. Hotel to work on it, although he had in the hotel and cabins and dormito- crews at Lake McDonald and the A huge light fixture for the lobby was ries. Prince of Wales. He liked being at purchased in St. Louis Park, Minnesota Harlan tore out the old wood furnaces Many because it was centrally located – special order. It consisted of steel that were ducted (gravity type, with no between the other two sites and he rings with coach lanterns. An electric fan arrangements) in the basement — could travel amongst them. hoist had to be engineered up in the one on each side. The electrical tower with a hole in the tower floor so The kitchen at Many Glacier was as old supervisor decided to put the new that the heavy fixture could be lowered fashioned as the ones at the other hotels. Again the refrigeration was

6 ◆ Spring 2004 ◆ The Inside Trail for every bedroom. The all- weather portico that was added to the front of the hotel was already in place when Harlan arrived. It been constructed by Roy McLean. Harlan really enjoyed his stay at Many Glacier and part of that pleasure was working with Ray Kinley as his foreman. Ray was extremely colorful and told great stories. During the summers he worked as a night clerk and took people out fishing during the day. He had lost an arm working on the Pennsylvania Railroad and had The spiral staircase in the lobby of Many Glacier Hotel. It was removed to make room a lifelong pension. He worked for a greatly expanded gift shop (Photo courtesy of the Ray Djuff collection.) very hard for Harlan and was a tough taskmaster with his accomplished with ice and the stoves attached to heavy steel beams that were crew. Ray could even predict the were ancient Navy oil burners. Mr. Hy lifted up to the ceiling of the basement weather. In March, he told Harlan that Olson, the purchasing agent for the St. Moritz Room to reinforce the floor a big blizzard would occur in 24 hours Glacier Park Hotel Co., advertised the above it. While they were pulling the because the sheep had come down from old equipment and sold much of it to beams up, Harlan had everyone stand as the mountains. Sure enough, the storm the local Hutterites for a very reasonable far away as possible so that if a chain happened and it was as wild as foretold price. So a new electrical kitchen was installed complete with a modern, heavy-duty dishwasher made by the Hobart Co. Harlan was not involved in that procedure Before Harlan started working at the but was assigned to one of the toughest hotel, the spiral staircase in the lobby jobs at Many – removing support columns in was taken out and Mr. McLean had the basement. expanded the gift shop. Harlan was not involved in that procedure but was assigned to one of the toughest jobs at Many – removing support columns in broke, no one would get hurt. After by Ray. Harlan kept in touch with Ray the basement. There simply were too the lengths of steel were snugly put in and he and his wife even went to visit many of them in the downstairs place, wooden coverings were fastened him at his home in Los Angeles. recreational area. It was too difficult to over them and cleverly carved by an Harlan also remembered Mrs. Rhody – put chairs in the space for meetings or artisan with an adz to fit in with the the chief cook at Many Glacier. She conventions, and dances were awkward. “rustic” décor. They can be seen and had the best food costs in the park and enjoyed to this day. The holes in the So Harlan and his crew jacked up the ran a very tight ship. An extra piece of lobby floor were then filled in and no lobby floor and cut down the selected fruit carelessly slipped into a dessert one was the wiser. columns. A tripod with a hoist was set bowl would be spied by her eagle eye up in the hotel lobby and chains were Many Glacier Hotel had a steam boiler and the salad girl would be told, in no dropped through holes that had been which was old and noisy but was not uncertain terms, to remove it. cut in the floor. The chains were replaced. New bathrooms were built Continued on page 16.

The Inside Trail ◆ Spring 2004 ◆ 7 washed it out as always. He figured that Jammer Tales he had gotten rid of the garter snake. The next morning Johnnie had a tour of “about eight fairly sizable ladies.” The Colorful Memories of Red Bus ladies were riding in the back seats with the tour leader in the front. It was a Drivers from 1947 - 2003 pleasant day and the top was rolled back. They traveled uneventfully up the east By Tammy Hansan (Many Glacier Hotel technical support. side of the Going-to-the Sun Highway. 1981; Glacier Park Lodge 1982-83) As the group was about two-thirds of the Johnnie Ridgway (1947): The Stow- way down the west side, Johnnie looked This collection of stories was assembled away Snake down by his foot and the snake emerged during the Jammer Reunion and Rededi- Johnnie Ridgeway was in Glacier Park in from between the firewall and the cation of the Red Buses, June 6-8, 2002. 1947 and drove Bus #86. Glacier Park floorboard! He saw it sneaking out and The event was held at Glacier Park has special significance in Johnnie’s life pressed his foot on its head hoping he Lodge. The subsequent parties and because he met his wife at Lake could kill it. The snake’s entire body gatherings moved to Lake McDonald McDonald. She was from Minnesota and came out while he was holding the head Lodge due to a blizzard that dropped worked as a waitress in the employees’ down with his foot. By this time, the four feet of snow in a 48-hour period. mess hall. They dated all summer long tour leader saw it. Johnnie lifted up his The camaraderie of the jammers and the and married the following April. foot and the snake went straight back stories shared while the snow fell offer a under the seat. The women saw it, glimpse into the illustrious history of When Johnnie drove in 1947, most of screamed, crawled up over the backs of jammers covering the years 1936-2001. the drivers were veterans. At age 21, he the seats and leaned over the railing. was one of the younger ones. “It was a The jammers’ thoughts were recorded Johnnie had “eight women with their tail very mature bunch of guys, a very fun and are retold here primarily as a collec- ends sticking right up in the air over the bunch of guys — a very, very close tion of stories rather than actual tran- top of the bus on the Going-to-the-Sun fraternity.” There were some real charac- scriptions. Jammers were asked to share Highway.” When he stopped, the five ters, such as Ding Dong Bell from their names, years they drove in the park buses behind him stopped too, and the Oklahoma. Five Hands Apistoki “was a and the buses that got them over Logan jammers all helped to find the snake. little short Texan, couldn’t see over the Pass. They shared their most treasured steering wheel and the girls called him Johnnie recalls being frustrated with the experiences, memorable events, and Five Hands ‘cause he couldn’t keep his tourists and their lack of respect for the favorite jokes. They related their thoughts hands off them.” A group of four Texans bears. The bears in the park had not on how Glacier National Park impacted their lives and recounted any other events could always be realized that humans they had in reflection of their experiences. heard coming into Johnnie’s most memorable were dangerous and This narrative is as true to their stories as Lake McDonald incident involved a snake. were often seen in possible. No factual information has been because they would the road destroying altered. teach everyone on their buses to sing The cars. There were always bears cubs Eyes of Texas Are Upon You as they drove around Lake McDonald and the tourists This project to record and retell the down the driveway. would stop traffic and take their children stories of the Jammers was the brainchild out to see the bears. The jammers didn’t of my husband John Hansan, who Johnnie’s most memorable incident like to stop around the bears because the worked in the park 1981-1983 as involved a snake. He was on a run from bears would scratch the buses. Parents Transportation Agent and Transportation Prince of Wales to Many Glacier and had saw a photo opportunity and would send Director. John passed away on July 8, a man with a noisy child in the back seat. their children out to pet the cubs. The 2002 of melanoma, just one month after When they arrived at Many Glacier, jammers tried to convince people to get these histories were collected. This text is Johnnie noticed that the child was their children away from the bears and dedicated to John with all my love. crawling all around the back of the bus. the people would get angry with them. He inquired about the child’s behavior P.S. Special thanks to Steve Vogel (GPI and discovered that the boy had lost his Ino Belsaas was the transportation agent 1977-1982) for his support with this garter snake! Johnnie took his bus to the for many years at Lake McDonald. Ino project! And to my Columbus friend, garage, put it up on the ramp and was “very precise, kind of an old fuddy- Georgia Crosby, of Mindleaders, Inc. for

8 ◆ Spring 2004 ◆ The Inside Trail duddy.” As the buses would pull in, he trail head at Scenic Point lookout — and The jammer party that year was held would make sure they were spaced out. at that point, before I thought maybe near Lake MacDonald in an open space Ino had a chalkboard and his watch. As something was going on with his girl- where everyone could be loud and have a soon as the wheel of a bus stopped, he friend or something — but then when I bonfire and not bother anybody else. would jot down the time. Then he would saw his car there I was getting kinda Awards had been created highlighting open the door and give the same speech worried that something bad happened. various personality traits. Mike earned to the passengers about where to have We thought maybe he went hiking and the Gotta Get Over the Pass Award. He lunch and where the restrooms were broke his ankle or broke his leg, some- remembers several obstacles he encoun- located. The jammers decided to have thing like that. We got ahold of the park tered in his efforts to make it successfully some fun with Ino one day. Johnnie rangers and they gave us a can of bear over the pass. Most notably, he shared recalls: “There were probably fifteen of us spray and six of us went out to try to find the story of getting over the pass without in a row. So, outside of Lake McDonald him in case something happened and he brakes. about three miles, we all stopped and was hurt. Two went back and four of us Mike deadheaded from East Glacier to came bumper to bumper and we came all were looking for him. Lake MacDonald to pick up a tour. He into Lake McDonald one behind the “We didn’t think about it, but there were braked at the last stop sign before going other and turned about one hundred and all these birds flying in this one area and into Lake MacDonald Lodge, but sailed fifty people loose at the same time. Poor we [commented] ‘Look at all those black clean through the stop sign! He thought Ino ‘bout had a stroke!” birds.’ It didn’t dawn on us. We looked that he would be OK, since he was going Nathan Wilkinson (1998): A Grizzly till about 8:30 and it started to get dark Bear Tragedy so we decided to turn back. When we got He remembers several there his coat was hanging on the fence obstacles he Nathan Wilkinson drove Bus #92 during post right at the trailhead, so we came the summer of 1998. He remembers encountered in his efforts back and filled out a police report. And arranging to stay at Lake McDonald so they ended up having a big search for to make it successfully he could be closer to his future wife, him. They found him about two days over the pass. Yvonne Davis, who worked in the later and he was over where the birds kitchen there. They were married in 2000 were hanging out. A grizzly bear and two up the steepest part of the road. And he at Lake McDonald Lodge. two-year-old cubs had stalked him and could slow the bus — just not stop it. The summer of 1998 started out on a killed him and gouged him. (The mechanics were not the friendliest dark note. One of the drivers was killed bunch that year. Mike had been severely “It was kinda bad ‘cause two groups of by a grizzly bear just as the summer scolded by them early in the season for people heard him screaming and one began. Nathan recalls: “The basic story refusing to drive with a flat tire. He chose group discounted it. The other group behind that was we had the weekend off not to contact them with a simple issue looked for a little like having no brakes.) and he apparently bit and they gave went to go watch a The summer of 1998 Mike started the tour from Lake up and never MacDonald. Everything went well on the hockey game at a bar started out on a dark note. reported it to the near East Glacier. way up to Logan Pass. On the way rangers. Someone down, Mike pumped the brakes to keep The bar was closed so he decided to go found his backpack and took his back- just enough pressure in them to keep the for a hike. On Monday he never showed pack and a week later they found out this bus from running away. He also kept the up for work and we didn’t — we had just guy got killed in Glacier Park. The bear bus in “whatever gear it was, second or met each the week before, and didn’t that killed him was [called] Chocolate third.” Mike gave this account of his know each other’s personality, and we Legs and had a reputation - had dark memorable ride: “I was able to contain didn’t know if he had just decided to take brown legs and a blond body.” the bus pretty well. The road was pretty off and [decide whether he would] be a Mike Laliberte (1984):“No Brakes!” smooth and traffic wasn’t bad and I was jammer or not. able to hold it at the proper speed. But I Mike Laliberte drove in 1984. He chose “At noon we had security check his room still couldn’t stop. So as we were going Bus #84. He thought that this bus had and all his stuff was there and about 4 or down, [the brakes] were fading worse and the smoothest clutch, and was the most 5 we got kinda worried and a bunch of worse. comfortable. Mike’s only complaint was us jammer drivers jumped in my jeep and that the hand brake was really difficult to “So I’m stomping on the brake. And it’s went looking for him. So we were find consistently. But he thought it was a hitting the floor with a loud thump. The looking for him and found his car at the great bus. front seat was still a bench seat and I had

The Inside Trail ◆ Spring 2004 ◆ 9 Jammer Tales continued a full bus so I had somebody sitting up By the time they arrived at Many Glacier, that if you don’t believe in God, just go front with me. There’s this lady sitting however, everyone was aware of Mike’s to Glacier and you’ll find God.” At the there and she’d look at my feet and look illness. They stopped asking questions next stop they talked again and Duane at me and her eyes were as big as saucers. when they saw his pallid complexion. He realized how much he would have liked We pulled into Jackson Glacier turnout dropped off his folks and went straight to go hiking with these guys. When they and I said ‘Look off to the right and see up to the jammer dorm. He was able to arrived at Logan Pass and the hikers were Jackson Glacier.’ RRRRRRRR. I pulled talk another jammer into putting the bus set to go, he approached the one who back the emergency brake and it made away, folding the blankets, and closing smoked and said, “ I noticed you were this loud howl. RRRRRRRR [The bus] the top. Mike remembers this as one of smoking back there.” The hiker acknowl- stopped. The rest of the trip was OK the meanest illnesses he has ever had! edged that he smoked and stated that he because you really don’t have to make knew he should quit. Duane Brassette (2001-2003): A some stops until you get to the lodge.” Smoker Kicks the Habit Duane responded, “ You know, I never [Editor’s Note: Readers new to Glacier smoked, but I always have heard that the will be reassured to know that the old red Duane Brassette was one of the faithful first 3 days are the worst; the hardest to buses were given new brakes, chassis, jammers who “carried the torch for the quit. Why don’t you just give me all your engines, and transmissions during their reds” and drove a white van during the cigarettes, I’ll put them in a bearproof renovation by Ford Motor Company in summer of 2001, while the old fleet was container and Thursday when you get 2002.] in Detroit being restored. He tells a story back you’ll be a nonsmoker.” The hiker of a couple of hikers he picked up on the Another obstacle in Mike’s endeavors to looked at Duane and agreed. He pulled a shuttle from Lake McDonald. He get over the pass without incident was total of five packs of cigarettes from his the Rocky Mountain Flu. This was the pockets and pack. Duane crushed them summer when the Many Glacier em- Duane Brassette . . . tells all and put them in a bearproof con- ployee mess included a quarantine table. a story of a couple of tainer. The hiker hugged him and stated, Mike caught the flu from a jammer at hikers he picked up on “I’ll never forget this moment for as long Lake MacDonald. Mike was on his way the shuttle from Lake as I live,” and off they went. up the west side with a tour. As he Tommy Raye (1969-71): A Sightless approached the Weeping Wall, he was McDonald. Sightseer suddenly hit with nausea. He tried to enjoyed driving the shuttle because dismiss it, but soon didn’t even want to commentary was not necessary. “You just Tommy Raye worked in the park from talk any longer. By the time they got to go for a ride. You don’t have to worry 1969-1971. He drove Buses #98, #99, Logan Pass, he knew he was very ill. He about a tip ‘cuz they’re not probably and #101 and was a Transportation allowed his tour extra time at the Pass so gonna give you a tip.” Agent in 1971. Tommy describes a he could prepare himself for the trip particularly memorable encounter. It was down the east side. The hikers he drove this particular day late one evening, and he was driving a were high school buddies and in their small tour that was running late. He took The tour continued and Mike barely senior years at different colleges. They two people, a blind lady and her com- made two turns away from Logan Pass had never been to Glacier National Park panion, from Waterton down to Many till he was felling very sick again. He and this was a trip they had planned fought the waves of nausea and picked since boyhood. As they rode along up speed toward the Jackson Glacier They all eventually towards Logan Pass, they pointed out the made it over the pass turnout. He had barely stopped the bus mountains and knew right where they before he jumped out and bolted into the were. They planned a three day and enjoyed the woods. He felt better again after a few backcountry experience and had maps adventure. minutes and devised a plan to explain and huge backpacks. this to his tour. He grabbed a couple of Glacier. He thought it was unique that a leaves - a big fat leaf and a little leaf. He The shuttle had specific stops to wait for blind lady was on a sightseeing tour. He explained to the folks how the sunlight hikers. At the first stop, one of Duane’s was as pleasant as possible and explained affects different foliation. His quick passengers got out and lit a cigarette. The what they were seeing, giving the most thinking turned the alarming situation friend who stayed in the bus commented vivid verbal descriptions that he could. into something positive. aboutTrail his buddy’screw deploying continued hose need at toGranite Park Chalet on July 21.. (John smoke.Hagen Along Photo) the way, one of them Tommy told another story of hiking in commented, “You know, somebody said the park. He and a friend were hiking 10 ◆ Spring 2004 ◆ The Inside Trail Gunsight Pass when they met a girl on California. The boat concessionaire we remember just because he or she spent the trail. She joined them and, as they permitted the use of the DeSmet. The a summer in Glacier Park. neared the pass, she grew tired. They families were also permitted to use Bus Some people refer to Glacier Park as their were close to the pass and she couldn’t #94 (which was the one that Bill drove in cathedral. For others, it is that place of have weighed more then 95 or 100 1961). There wasn’t a wave on the lake solitude and meditation. For me, the pounds, so Tommy encouraged her to nor a cloud in the sky as they were park is a deeply spiritual place, a place jump on his back. She took him up on married on Lake McDonald. It was just a that is so very difficult to describe to the offer. About one hundred steps later, perfect day! friends who have never seen it or any- he realized that he wasn’t going to make Tammy Hansan (1981-83): Editor’s thing like it. it. The extra weight was more than he Postscript anticipated. They all eventually made it During my summers in Glacier Park over the pass and enjoyed the adventure. Glacier Park has touched many lives in (1981-1983), I didn’t realize just how ways that cannot be described. What can wonderful the place was. It wasn’t until I Bill Schade (1961-62): Jammer Jokes be shared are the many stories, the jokes left and didn’t return the next year that Bill Schade drove Buses #94 and #110 in and the laughter of employees who the impact of Glacier was evident in my 1961 and 1962. He shared his favorite appear to have all worked together even life. Life just isn’t the same in the concrete “jammer jokes” and a very personal though their actual hire dates may be jungle of Columbus, Ohio. My husband memory of Glacier National Park. decades apart. As past employees of the and I returned many years later, in 1997, concessionaire, we all have cherished to share the park with our children, then As Bill drove his tour past St. Mary Lake memories that are beyond words. again for the jammer reunion in June, and he pointed out the beautiful island, Experiences that have nothing to do with 2002. My children and I returned once he would share its name with the people: the job but with the park itself - the more in August of 2002 to re-center our Paradise Island. Then he would com- vistas, the scents, the quietness of a place lives after the death of my husband and ment: “The reason it was named Paradise not quite like any other place on Earth. their father. Now, at this time in my life, Island is that no woman has set foot on We all share these intrinsic ideals and the power of Glacier Park has taken hold it.” The men would laugh and the seem to know that every other employee and I will be back for as many summers women would just groan. has had an experience similar to the one as I am able. “Ladies and gentlemen, if you’re nervous about driving on the road here, maybe you ought to do what I do — just close your eyes.”

He recalls driving on the Going-To-the- Sun Highway with tourists who were very nervous as Bill slowly maneuvered around the curves. Bill would calm his passengers by saying, “Ladies and gentlemen, if you’re nervous about driving on the road here, maybe you ought to do what I do — just close your eyes. That’s what I do.” More groans. Bill shared an exceptional memory of Glacier that happened not while he was driving, but many years later. He encour- aged his children to work in the park and For better than three quarters of a century generations of bright red buses his daughter met her husband while working at Many Glacier Hotel. The have graced the roadways of Glacier and the drivers have collected stories wedding was planned for Glacier Park, of antics and adventures. (Photo courtesy of the Ray Djuff Collection.) since the families were in Minnesota and The Inside Trail ◆ Spring 2004 ◆ 11 Hot-Wiring a Coach Horse . . . And Other Wrangler Tales by Robert Wellman (owner of the Park say loudly, “Come on, Prince!” when I the edge of the lake. The pack with Saddle Horse Company, 1946-1970) did it. It wasn’t long till all I had to say their clothes in it came open and their was, “Come on, Prince!” and he would things flew into the water. Bras, I drove the Tally Ho stagecoach at move right out. panties, socks, and all the things that Many Glacier for two years. It would young ladies take with them were seat nine passengers comfortably and a Blackie Dillon, the famous wrangler floating around. Blackie got a rake and few more if there were children. I had (whom I wrote about in the previous began to pull them out. The ladies trained four pinto horses to pull it. I issue of The Inside Trail), was more fun wrung them out, laughing and having a would pick up the passengers at the than anyone. He would be visiting in good time. They decided to go back to hotel and go up around the camp store the bar, and all the females would hang the hotel instead of going on a pack and campground. This would give around and try to get his attention. I trip. I always wondered how Blackie people about forty-five minute ride. remember when two very attractive made that horse buck. We always had seasonal rangers who we The pair that were in front were a bit smaller than the called “Posy Pickers.” They knew a two in back. Of the two in back, one was lazy and I little bit about the flora and fauna for had trouble making him keep his side of the eveners talking to the dudes. But they couldn’t tell a black bear track from a grizzly up so that he was pulling anything at all. track. One time we were told not to take I have never particularly liked spotted young ladies met him at the bar and horses on the trail along Lake horses, as I have never had one that was talked him into taking them on a pack Josephine. I told all the guides who especially good, but the colors stand trip. Now Blackie was more comfort- worked for me, and nobody was going out and people notice them. The pair able staying at the hotel. He would on that trail. Then a seasonal ranger that were in front were a bit smaller intentionally make a mess out of came and really chewed me out, saying than the two in back. Of the two in anything he didn’t want to do so you that he had found fresh horse tracks in back, one was lazy and I had trouble wouldn’t ask him to do it again. I the forbidden area. After he got making him keep his side of the eveners made it a point to watch and see what through, I went and looked. Then I up so that he was pulling anything at was going to happen. asked Don Barnum, the District all. I couldn’t carry any kind of a whip Blackie got all of the things that they Ranger at St. Mary, to visit the site. He or the people would think I was cruel. were going to bring along packed up. came and looked and we both had a I thought about it for quite awhile, and They had brought along some refresh- good laugh. The “Posy Picker” didn’t then decided on a plan. I got an electric fence charger and a small battery and put them on the floor by my feet. Then I ran a wire up through I thought about it for quite awhile, and then his harness and bared about four inches decided on a plan. of it and wrapped it around the crouper, which goes under the horse’s tail. I rigged a deal where I could ment and were passing it around know the difference between horseshoe operate a connector with my toe that liberally and having a good time. He tracks and mule shoe tracks. The tracks would make the charger go on. I got the packs on a horse, and then it at Lake Josephine were from mule shoes would just let it shock him once, and went to bucking. They were right on – and only the Park Service had mules!

12 ◆ Spring 2004 ◆ The Inside Trail Memories of Blackie Dillon By J. Gordon Edwards (National Park little leather pouch and open it up and picture of Blackie lying under a 5-foot- Service 1947; Author of “A Climber’s sprinkle the contents over the boiling tall alpine fir in the rain. I often Guide to Glacier National Park) coffee. I’d thank him very much, then showed that slide at evening talks. drop some eggshells in and stop the Blackie would come in and watch until Blackie Dillon (the legendary wrangler, boiling by dipping the steel point of his picture came on the screen (and Spring 2003 issue) was a good friend of my ice axe into it. (I usually told the everyone laughed), and after laughing mine. We often shared the trail to drinkers that what Blackie had added at it, Blackie would leave. Iceberg Lake. As he and his riders was just more coffee.) Fun times! caught up with my hiking parties, we One night he was on the Many Glacier would pause by the trail, and he would At Grinnell Glacier I once asked dance floor dancing with one of his pause, waiting for my comments. I Blackie if he had ever walked up to that “dudes.” She asked, “Where did you often told the hikers how famous Blackie destination. As I recall, he laughed and get your costume?” He laughed and was, and that we would see him again at said, “Hell, my feet don’t fit no trails.” said, “Hell, lady; this is no costume – the lake. Then I would ask Blackie if the Once, while we were at the glacier, a this is my clothes!” horses come back to the stable smelling surprise storm blew over from the west I could go on forever about Blackie. like people. He would guffaw at that. and really rained. The outhouse was After he stopped guiding riders, he full and children were crying. I got a At Iceberg Lake I always took little packages of coffee, dumped them into a #10 can, and boiled it over a small I once asked Blackie if he had ever walked up fire. Blackie would walk over and ask, to that destination. As I recall, he laughed and “Did you put the tobacco in yet?” I’d admit that I hadn’t, and that I had run said, “Hell, my feet don’t fit no trails.” out. Then Blackie would pull out a spent time driving the stagecoach from Many Glacier Hotel to the Swiftcurrent Coffee Shop and back. He would have coffee at the counter with me and discuss things. I recall him telling me who the “Josephine” was, after whom the lake and the old mine were named, and what eventually happened to her (she moved to Arizona or some other southern place). The last time he drove the stagecoach was the time he ran one of the big wheels over the fender of the boss’s automobile, near the hotel where it was parked. We heard later that Blackie was work- ing at Knott’s Berry Farm, so we drove Blackie Dillon shows down to see him. His beard was white, the spleandors of but otherwise he seemed unchanged. Iceberg Lake to a His job was holding up the stagecoach, group of ‘dudes’. which he did very well. The driver (Photo courtesy of would hold his hands up and act Minnesota Historical scared, throw the “bag of gold” to Society.) Blackie, and then drive on. Blackie kept those bags in a wooden bucket until the end of the day, then gave them back to the stagecoach driver. It was great seeing him again.

The Inside Trail ◆ Spring 2004 ◆ 13 Shooting the Rapids On Swiftcurrent Creek

By Dick Schwab (Many Glacier 1947- fewer pair of arms to help cope with the relatively calm waters toward Lower St. 52) dangers into which we were constantly Mary Lake someone said, “Look out! plunged. There’s a spike sticking down from that In the 1940s and 1950s the great trestle!” Before preventive action could vogue for commercial and amateur On some of our runs we were in the icy, be taken the raft was carried right into rubber rafting had not begun in frothy water as often as we were in the the rusty spike, which ripped a huge earnest, but because Doug George raft, and rescue operations were con- gash in the upper part of it, far too came into possession of a leaky yellow tinually necessary. Mercifully, no one long to be mended by the old-fash- raft, we launched into the sport with drowned, but there was more than one ioned tire patching outfit we had. That much enthusiasm and almost no close call. Once someone was washed is when we sought the help of Earl the knowledge of the perils involved. overboard and swept into a very nasty Barber, who emerged from his store- Swiftcurrent Creek was a lively chal- snag formed by a tree that had fallen room-closet with a sail-maker’s palm. lenge, with its many rapids and spiney over into the water, I believe. He was But the stitching and patching was not snags of deadfalls along the way which folded over an underwater branch by as effective as we had hoped it would could be lethal both to raft and rafters. the awesome force of the current. For be, and thereafter it took almost But we knew nothing about that. We awhile no efforts by the other rafters continuous pumping to keep the raft did not even wear life jackets. could extricate him, and it was only afloat. Doug had only one paddle, and so we supplemented it with old, worn-out hotel brooms. Before a disastrous flood in the 1960s which changed its But the stitching and patching was not as effective channel below Boulder Creek, as we had hoped it would be, and thereafter it took Swiftcurrent Creek could be navigated almost continuous pumping to keep the raft afloat. (dangerously) in a rubber raft from Sherburne Dam clear down to Lower St. Mary Lake. Shooting the Swiftcurrent rapids was an exciting thing to do on a sunny afternoon off barely possible to keep his head above When I have thought back on that when the water was high. From the the water so that he could breathe. I episode I have wondered how it could moment we piled into the raft and were am not sure how the victim was finally possibly be that there once was a little swirled away in the white water it was pried free, but the experience did finally railroad trestle across the creek. I have pure excitement. We would be thrust make us aware of a peril we had not looked for remnants of it, although not by the water into crisis after crisis of thought seriously about. This kind of very thoroughly, and have found no rapids, whirlpools, sharp rocks, and mishap may have happened more than sign of it. My impression in the 1950s treacherous spear-like snags. once, since sometimes I have the image was that it had been some kind of What added a positive frenzy to the of a young man who was rescued, and narrow gauge track, and I now wonder experience was the fact that the raft was at other times I have the impression it whether it might have been a vestige of constantly leaking air, and in the was a woman. the unsuccessful copper mining opera- tions in the Swiftcurrent Valley which middle of each emergency someone had The raft never fully recovered from a had given birth to the temporary boom to be frenetically pumping in more. As very nasty freak accident. As a group of town of Altyn not far below Many the raft was going soft and limp and rafters were being carried forward on was filled with water it became even Glacier in the late 1890s. less controllable than when it was pretty much inflated. The almost constant need for pumping meant one

14 ◆ Spring 2004 ◆ The Inside Trail The Tabasco Four-Top

By Hank Overturf (Many Glacier 1970- waitresses and busboys that they should By now I couldn’t contain my curiosity. 72) look at my four top and watch those I blurted out, “You folks must really folks guzzle Tabasco Sauce. Then I like Tabasco Sauce!” I was preparing my waiter’s station recounted their use of Tabasco in their when the Many Glacier dining room They all chuckled. Joseph said, “Hank, coffee and their request for additional opened for breakfast. It was one of this stuff is amazing. It is a disease sauce. those beautiful mornings and I was on preventative and helps keep us young. the lake side of the dining room so it I returned to my station and served We go through two bottles per meal, was necessary to give the guests a few them their juice and fruit along with a and none of us have had any health extra minutes to look out the windows fresh bottle of Tabasco. They drowned problems. We hike and travel all over before asking for their breakfast orders. everything in the sauce. Grapefruit the world. Notice none of us are The first table seated was a four-top of with Tabasco, prunes with Tabasco, wearing glasses, and we all have our two couples. Each couple was nicely orange juice with Tabasco, and finally own teeth.” dressed and appeared to be in their 60’s something I had seen before – tomato As Joseph and the rest of the guests or early 70’s. They were lively and juice with Tabasco. I was going to need talked about Tabasco Sauce, I learned animated. I walked over, introduced an additional bottle of Tabasco Sauce, a that they were members of the family myself and endured the normal ques- big one. that produced it. The business was tions about my major in school and The morning was fairly slow and I family owned and operated. The where was the best place to see a glacier, didn’t have another table. I had the family would gather for several weeks a etc. Their deep southern accents were opportunity to converse with these nice year and produce Tabasco Sauce. Then pleasant and cultured. folks and answer a lot of questions. they all would go their separate ways They all ordered the normal fare of Then I went back to the kitchen to get and enjoy the income generated by bacon and eggs and potatoes, with lots their breakfasts. diners who enjoy a hot pepper sauce. of coffee. I brought their coffee with cream and sugar when one of the gentlemen asked for something that was new to me. “Son, could you bring me the Tabasco Sauce?” the gentleman I was off duty for dinner, and I always have I’ll call Joseph asked. wondered who had the good fortune to wait on “Certainly, sir,” I stated, and retired to those folks. I sure hope that they had lots of my station to fetch the hot sauce. Tabasco Sauce on hand. When I brought it back, I watched as they passed the bottle around and each shook fifteen to twenty drops of the hot pepper sauce into their coffee! I picked up their orders and placed They were friendly people. At the end them in front of the diners and re- of breakfast, we parted with hand- “Hank, you’d better bring another freshed their coffees. Again everything, shakes and they left me a nice tip. bottle of this sauce, as this one is only including the oatmeal, got a healthy When lunch came around, they asked half full and we’ll use what’s left before dose of Tabasco. The brand new bottle for me as their waiter, and I made sure the main course gets here,” Joseph said. soon was empty. I pulled out the that I had three full bottles of Tabasco I left to place their order, pick up their reserve bottle that I had brought out on hand. I was off duty for dinner, and orange juice and fruit, and get another with their orders and offered it to them. I always have wondered who had the bottle of Tabasco Sauce. “Oh, thank you, Hank. We were good fortune to wait on those folks. I Once in the kitchen, I remarked to running low,” Joseph said with a grin. sure hope that they had lots of Tabasco several of my fellow waiters and Sauce on hand.

The Inside Trail ◆ Spring 2004 ◆ 15 The Adventures of Harlan Berntson continued from page 7. The Knutson Company It is not certain what would have and he was able to hire Mariam Midby happened to these beloved structures if for his office on the first floor of the The Knutson Company got the Glacier these renovations had not taken place. annex. Park renovation contract because Don The Great Northern had been trying to had gone to school with Connie Wirth, The Great Northern must be recog- sell them at least since the early 1950’s. the head of the Park Service at the time. nized for continuing to operate these They were in such a condition that Connie Wirth was the son of Theodore antique accommodations for so many there was even talk of tearing down Wirth, who was well known in Minne- years. It is reported that 1929 was the Many Glacier. Through intense effort, apolis where he was the Parks Superin- only year when the railroad saw a Harlan and his crews most likely saved tendent for many years. Don Knutson, profit! these beautiful lodges from either the head of the company, had told Harlan to do a good job because he thought that he might like to bid on the hotels himself. Through intense effort, Harlan and his crews most During its tenure, Knutson and Co. likely saved these beautiful lodges from either decided to really promote the Glacier neglect or destruction, enabling many future Park hotels. Thus, they persuaded generations to enjoy them. 1950’s celebrities like Tennessee Ernie Ford, Edward R. Murrow, Groucho Marx, and the very popular governor of neglect or destruction, enabling many These hotels and all the great western Montana to come out and stay for free future generations to enjoy them. lodges are genuinely national treasures. in hopes that they would go back home Their beauty and the sense of history Harlan labored tremendously long and talk up the good time that they that they impart are gifts to all the hours at his Glacier Park work and got had had in the Park. peoples of the world. a huge amount of satisfaction from a Knutson seemed to like the hospitality job extremely well done. He felt that (Harlan Berntson has been retired for business. He had inherited a hotel in the Great Northern was very supportive several years and lives in a suburb of the Moorhead, Minnesota, through default all the way through. When he was at Twin Cities. This story is compiled from and had leased two more in Minot, Glacier Park Lodge, he decided that he interviews which he conducted with North Dakota. Eventually, Don needed a secretary because the paper- Tessie Bundick, the chief historian for the Hummel, the former mayor of Tucson, work was so overwhelming. The Great Glacier Park Foundation.) purchased the hotels. Northern complied with his request

JOIN THE GLACIER PARK FOUNDATION All friends of Glacier Park are invited to join the Glacier Park Foundation. Membership includes a subscription to The Inside Trail and the right to vote for directors. Please download a membership form from our Web Site (www.glacierparkfoundation.org) or send your name, address, phone number, and park experience to Glacier Park Foundation, Box 15641, Minneapolis, MN 55415.

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(Panorama by Christine Baker.)

16 ◆ Spring 2004 ◆ The Inside Trail