Wine...And Dine

TASTES AND TABLES Wine...and Dine An Italian restaurant on Beacon Hill o≠ers great food with its wine. ($15) looked like a pile of worms in red clay, but was absolutely delectable—espe- cially washed down with the Gamay Do- maine du Vissoux “Cuvée Traditionelle” Beaujolais, 2006. Also rewarding was the thickly cut duck breast with snippets of rhubarb and cubed turnip ($27). The veg- gies were a bit undercooked, just as we like them, and the turnip’s earthy, bitter heart and the rhubarb’s springy sourness balanced the rich meat. So good was the “horsy, barnyard” essence (so said our waiter) of the accompanying Brucher Pinot Noir, Aubaine Vineyards, California, 2004, that we later went on line to order our own case. Downright airy (next to the duck) was Mediterra- nean sea bass ($29) grilled with lemon, thyme, and asparagus: an honest dish lured n Italian, enoteca denotes a special shop wines and o≠erings from small- to the wild side by a where patrons sample wines from er vintners, and the system al- seductive red-pepper I nearby vineyards by sni∞ng and sip- lows diners at any level of coulis. ping as they nibble on small meals or oenophilia to mix and match For dessert, don’t fail snacks designed to complement specific (and learn about) exquisite to try the chocolate vintages. Such is the idea behind Bin 26 wines. As wine appreciation in the United berry “stack” ($9): two squares of dense, Enoteca on Beacon Hill. The brother-sister States grows, Bina explains, “palates are mousse-like cake with a scoop of tangy team of Azita Bina-Seibel and Babak Bina understanding that there are so many raspberry gelato. (Let’s just say we licked (who own Lala Rokh, a very good Persian wines to enjoy without prejudgment.” (Be the plate clean.) The lime cream tart ($9) restaurant nearby) has crafted a convivial warned, though: numerous tastings can boasted a fine custard with shortbread, spot where boldly flavored Italian-inspired prove expensive.) accented with pine nuts and rhubarb food is served with 223 wines, including We began with a semi-fizzy Basque steeped with sugar and strawberries. more than 70 available by the glass. That’s country wine, Txakoli Arabako Txakolina The loving care taken with both food many more than most restaurants, thanks “Xarmant” Amurrio 2007, which played and wine is evident throughout this unex- to a machine that preserves shelf life by well to the crispy grilled sardines ($16) pectedly refined local bistro. The place filling a partly empty bottle with nitrogen wrapped in grape leaves and served with a seats about 65 people in two small rooms to preclude entrance of the dreaded rich mélange of orange and yellow pep- and a nicely incorporated front bar; it’s spoiler, oxygen. pers and onions (along with a particularly cozy, not overcrowded. But sparseness Somewhat confusingly, glasses come in tasty Tuscan olive oil). Another starter, rules; any decorative touches are wine-re- four sizes, from 750 milliliters (an entire the chef’s strangely cold and flavorless lated: coatracks of cork, a wall decou- bottle) down to 100 (about a third of a homemade pâté ($8), proved the only paged with hundreds of wine labels, and standard wineglass). The owners provide downside of the evening. wine racks a≠ording pri- a wonderful variety, including organic The fusilli with wild BIN 26 ENOTECA vacy. At Bin 26, even the Bin 26 décor is all about wine; the menu offers boar bacon, pancetta, and 26 Charles Street bathrooms are worth a ricotta gnocchi and baby squid in tomato sauce. onion in a tomato sauce Boston visit. Just look up. n.p.b. 617-723-5939, www.bin26.com PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF BIN 26 ENOTECA 24L September - October 2008 Reservations recommended..

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What's in a Vintage? Is It Really Just Good Weather?
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