Alpine Skills International
Winter Ice Climbing 1 Instructor Lesson Plan Guidelines
2 Day 6:1 Student/Instructor Ratio
Site: June Lake and/or Lee Vining Canyon
Instructor’s Gear 1 Rope (single, 70m useful) per 2-3 students 1 Double Runner 1-2 Cordalettes (6mm x 5m) 1-2 Short Prussik Loops 3-6 Locking Screw-gate Carabiners Ice Screws Standard Carabiners
Personal Introductions Discuss Goals and Objectives Schedule for the day Course content Instill confidence Principles of LNT Review emergency plan Names, related experience, goals
Personal Gear Mountain Boots Ice axe (70cm or shorter) Crampons Alpine Climbing Harness, locking carabiner Climbing Helmet (rental no charge, reservation required) Climbing Pack, water container, high-energy food)
COURSE OUTLINE: DAY 1
Lesson 1 Ice Climbing Tools Climbing Harness Climbing Helmet Ice Tools Types and characteristics Crampons Types and binding types
- 1 - 00111
Belay Device/Locking screwgate carabiner
Lesson 2 Using Crampons Walking without tripping Front point traverse, 1 foot off the ground Trust your feet, balance Heels low
Lesson 3 Swinging an ice tool Imaginary “X” target or clip a spot Then swing with strong wrist Removing tool without sideways twist
Lesson 4 With Top Rope, low angle, swing 1 tool, trust your feet, look down a lot Lower-off lesson L-shaped position, imaginary chair
Lesson 5 Two tool technique Tool/foot sequencing Resting effectively X Hang Monkey Hang
COURSE OUTLINE: DAY 2
Lesson 1 Belaying technique Top Anchor options Steep ice lower offs
Lesson 2 Ice climbing improvement/Practice Steeper, more sustained climbing
Lesson 3 Steep snow descending technique
- 2 - 00111