Starstruck NEW YORK — As If Plucked from the Midnight Sky, Inky Hues and Sparkle Give Fall Accessories a Galactic Spin

EYE: The social whirl FASHION: returns with New Jil Sander Yorkers for Children launches HBMB QBHF S SECTION II: S lower- ACCESSORIES: Milan priced Cole Haan focuses on Design collection, heritage for fall, with Week

S /BWZ QBHF a few twists, page 8. preview. WWD8PNFOT8FBS%BJMZt5IF3FUBJMFST%BJMZ/FXTQBQFSt"QSJM MONDAYt Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear

Starstruck NEW YORK — As if plucked from the midnight sky, inky hues and sparkle give fall accessories a galactic spin. Here, clockwise from top, a leather clutch from Maison Martin Margiela; Kotur’s silk and Crystallized-Swarovski Elements clutch; Judith Leiber’s metallic foil and pony hair clutch; Azature’s black diamond earrings set in sterling silver with rhodium and platinum; Yossi Harari’s 24-karat gold, oxidized silver, aquamarine, iolite, moonstone, sapphire, tanzanite, topaz, tourmaline and diamond cuff, and Alexander Wang’s blue-detailed lambskin boot. For more, see pages 6 and 7.

The Bills Roll In: Industry Adds Up Cost of New Health Care Law By Evan Clark wading into the details, figuring out decide how to apply the new laws, THE INDUSTRY’S BILLS ARE how the costs of expanded coverage will reforms phase in and insurance already coming due for the new health hit their bottom lines. providers and individuals choose their care law. The early read is that companies of all paths. The plan will dramatically Health care reform might have sizes will be paying more. boost benefits for some and costs been a key political win for President How much more won’t be clear for for others. But the net effect of the Obama, but accountants and human some time and this kind of general sweeping changes is the province of resource departments are just now muddiness should continue as officials See Health, Page 4 PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY SHOSHANNA FISCHHOFF THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 12, 2010 WWD.COM Sander Expands Offering With New Line By Alessandra Ilari WWDMONDAY MILAN — Jil Sander wants to build a wider cus- Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear tomer base with a lower-price brand extension. The new collection is called Jil Sander Navy, FASHION after its blue tag, and offers a more relaxed, Slightly Space Age, but darker and more feminine than sporty-chic attitude while maintaining 6 brand codes such as design rigor and the stark Sixties versions, fall’s deep-hued accessories top quality. Its purpose is twofold, of- glitter with metallic finishes and accents. fering existing clients another line to GENERAL buy as well as an opportunity for Jil Sander fans on a budget. The new logo. 1 Accountants and human resource departments The collection will launch globally by pushing its boundaries and intro- are just now wading into the details of health care for spring-summer 2011, to hit stores EXCLUSIVE ducing new elements to reinforce and reform and figuring out how the costs of expanded in January. Retailwise, the focus is on widen the attraction to the house,” said coverage will hit their bottom lines. the U.S. and Japan. creative director Raf Simons. The Supreme Court is expected to meet on Friday “This is a strategic first step to grow the Manufactured globally, the collection 4 to decide whether to hear a case brought by Costco Jil Sander business as we aim to reach out to will use a variety of fabrics, including inno- Wholesale Corp. against Omega SA. a vaster clientele. Not only does it address mar- vative cottons, high-performance techno fabrics, ket needs, but it will complement the pre-collec- wools and jerseys. 5 Sidney Burstein, who together with his wife, Joan, tions and the runway offering,” said Alessandro Cremonesi said he chose the U.S. and Japan founded the Browns group of multibrand designer Cremonesi, chief executive officer of Jil Sander, in as focal markets because of their department boutiques, died April 5 after a long illness. an exclusive interview. and specialty store-dominated retail scene, add- 9 Top industry executives at the 14th annual Global Jil Sander Navy is the first major launch under ing he will target all 54 stores in the U.S. that Retailing Conference said established brands the stewardship of Cremonesi, who succeeded for- carry the signature line. “We will work with our need to blend their core values with cutting-edge mer ceo Gian Giacomo Ferraris in July. The execu- retail partners to secure additional doors and tive was formerly Sander’s chief financial officer. space,” noted Cremonesi. creative and business strategies in order to grow Cremonesi said Jil Sander Navy, which is Moreover, he stressed there are strong signs and thrive. priced 40 percent below the signature line, wants of recovery in the U.S., where Sander’s sales 9 Japanese department store operator Takashimaya to attract a younger customer, not so much age- for fiscal year 2010, which started on Dec. 1, Co. posted a net profit of 7.7 billion yen, or $82.6 wise, but more in terms of a “dynamic attitude.” are growing by between 5 to 8 percent and sell- million at average exchange, for the year ended Prices are still being finalized, but Jil Sander’s through is “improving significantly.” Feb. 28, down 34.4 percent from last year. retail prices — starting at $322 for a shirt to be- The collection also will be carried in existing tween $1,007 and $2,552 for jackets and up to Jil Sander stores, which will be tweaked to accom- EYE $3,895 for coats — provide a rough guideline. modate the larger lineup, and on the brand’s online 12 Forget the spring equinox. The true marker of the Cremonesi expects the new line to bump up Jil store. Store openings in strategic markets are in the changing seasons, at least measured by Manhattan Mamie Gummer in Sander’s turnover of 100 million euros, or $134 mil- works, though further details were unavailable. social time, is the Friends of New Yorkers for Children’s Calvin Klein Collection. lion at current exchange, by 30 percent in one year. Since becoming ceo, Cremonesi has carried annual New Year’s in April: A Fool’s Fete. The backbone of the easy-to-wear collection out a restructuring plan developed with parent will be unconstructed outerwear such as trench- company Onward Holdings Co. Ltd. of Japan that Classified Advertisements...... 11 coats and blouson jackets, lightweight jersey was completed in December with an eye on cut- TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS pieces and laid-back knitwear. T-shirts, shirts, ting costs, streamlining operations and better in- [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. dresses, pants, skirts, jackets and jeans round tegrating the various processes. It also included WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2010 out the offering, alongside a select number of a 30 percent reduction in the company’s work- FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. handbags, footwear and belts. Abstract prints force across the board. VOLUME 199, NO. 78. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except for Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, June, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, August, September and will be a key element, and will be used more “We had to adjust to the market conditions and November, and three additional issues in February) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine often than in the signature line. we are now ready to pursue growth and turn Jil Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: “I will continue to open up the Jil Sander brand Sander into a modern company,” said Cremonesi. S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Benefit Cosmetics Taps Aurelian Lis Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. AURELIAN LIS HAS BEEN NAMED GENERAL Aurelian will work closely with our key retail- Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that manager, North America, of Benefit Cosmetics. ers to continue to build the Benefit brand in this your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with He will report to Jean-Andre Rougeot, chief important market.” your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be executive officer of Benefit Cosmetics. Before joining Benefit, Lis spent six years as mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S “It’s an exciting time to be at Benefit,” Lis told president and co-founder of Prescribed Solutions, WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the WWD on Friday, noting the brand will open two a customized skin care line sold through doctors’ World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened new cosmetics boutiques in the next few weeks; offices. That firm was acquired by Biopelle Inc. companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. 12 now exist, clustered in the San Francisco, Los in August 2009. He has also been chief operat- WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, Angeles, Chicago and New York City areas. Each ing officer for Delia’s Corp. and has worked for UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND averages around 800 square feet. “We will con- Unilever plc in a variety of strategic capacities TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED tinue to innovate in the brow area with our Brow focusing on brands such as Elizabeth Arden, TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. Cerruti and Lagerfeld. Additionally, he has held BEAUTY BEAT a board position on the Duty Free Confederation, Bars — we started doing brows at the first Benefit an industry group directing the lobbying for con- boutique 35 years ago. We’re also developing tinuation of intra-European Duty Free. other services.” The company operates a number “We are delighted to have found such a char- DAILY No growth is not of Brow Bars in department and specialty store ismatic leader and not just another pretty face,” “ doors such as Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s, which stated co-founders Jean and Jane Ford. “As an option. You grow offer consumers the opportunity to get their brows Midwest gals, we couldn’t be happier as a new tamed on the cosmetics floors of major retailers. era in the U.S. commences, with the potential for QUOTE or you die. “I am confident that Aurelian will bring great enormous growth.” LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis energy and passion to Benefit,” stated Rougeot. Vuitton owns 80 percent of the Benefit business, — Wesley R. Card, president and chief” executive officer “With significant recent growth, Benefit North while the Fords retain 20 percent. of Jones Apparel Group Inc. Page 8. America remains a key priority for us, and — Julie Naughton

COMING THIS WEEK TODAY ON Emmy MONDAY: Los Angeles WEDNESDAY: Milan Rossum Majors Market (through International Furniture WWD.COM Wednesday). and Interior Design Fair tLas Vegas International (through April 19). s More behind-the-scenes Lingerie Show (through tThe U.S. Labor images from OUT Wednesday). Department releases the TODAY Consumer Price Index for WWD Collections TUESDAY: Printsource New March. s WWD.com Exclusive: York (through Wednesday). tThe Commerce a look at Milan’s Salone del tIntersélection, Paris Department releases the Mobile international (through Thursday). March retail sales report. tThe U.S. Commerce tThe Federal Reserve furniture and design fair Department releases the Board releases the Beige s Additional images from February foreign trade Book economic report. the NYFC Gala and the Mini report. Mortimer Gaghan dinner tThe Talbots Inc. reports FRIDAY: Cosmoprof Worldwide fourth-quarter and year- Bologna, Bologna, Italy s More photos of the

end sales and earnings. (through April 19). STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY “Enchanted Palace” exhibition ACCESSORIE CIRCUIT . INTERMEZZO COLLECTIONS MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY MAY 3.4.5 2010 THE SHOW PIERS.NYC [email protected] | [email protected] | [email protected] | WWW.ENKTRAVEL.COM | WWW.ENKSHOWS.COM 4 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 12, 2010 WWD.COM Health Care Costs to Pressure Industry

Continued from page one before them as the whole of the health care landscape future historians — despite the highly politicized debate Firms are beginning to reacts to the new regime. in Washington. probe into the details of “Health reform not only puts new requirements on Yet even as companies from The Boeing Co. to the health care reform law them as employers, but also requirements on insurance Deere & Co. to Walgreen Co. take charges of up to and figuring out how it will companies,” said Barry Schilmeister, a partner in the $150 million to cover the costs of just one aspect of affect their costs. health and benefits unit at Mercer, a human resources the new law, advisers are cautioning companies to consulting firm owned by Marsh & McLennan Cos. Inc., take a wait-and-see approach. “Don’t get all worked an insurance provider. “That’s going to be particularly up,” said John Hennessy, senior consultant in Hay challenging for smaller companies. Many of the larger Group’s employee benefit practice. “We don’t have all companies have already put in plans that meet many of the answers right now.” the new coverage requirements.” Many details are known and, with the total costs es- Midsize companies and their owners, who typi- timated at $940 billion over 10 years, somebody is going cally register the firm’s profits on their personal tax to have to pay. returns, could be particularly hardhit by costs of Beginning in January, Hennessy said most companies health reform. Small companies will receive a tax would have to start to provide health insurance for em- credit of up to 35 percent to help cover the costs of ployees’ dependants up to the age of 26 and for depen- health insurance. dants who are under 19 and have preexisting medical “They defined small businesses as those that have conditions. fewer than 25 employees and an annual average wage Lifetime total coverage, which commonly maxes out of less than $40,000 a year,” said Marc Federbush, at $2 million, will also be removed, which Hennessy said partner in charge of the apparel and textile servic- “could be a little bit of a tricky issue.” He said retailers es group at New York City accounting firm Anchin, with a large number of employees are bound to have Block & Anchin. “That doesn’t really cover a whole some who have hit their maximums. Under the reforms, lot of guys here in the city. The government seems to these employees will once again qualify for benefits. think the entire country is one big pot and they say Course corrections will be needed along the way, but if you make more than $200,000 of earned income, Hennessy said most firms already offering group insur- you’re wealthy.” ance polices would be “grandfathered” into the new By 2018 there will be a 40 percent excise tax on top- regime, easing their way. It is still uncertain, though, tier health insurance policies, dubbed “Cadillac plans.” what changes to health plans would cause a company But it’s not just the types with golden parachutes who to lose that status and force them to start anew. “I’d be have the premium policies — executives at smaller very careful when considering plan design changes this firms might also have coverage that qualifies. year,” he said. Federbush said owners would ultimately pass the re- Already, big retailers are feeling the pinch. Walgreen form package’s higher costs on to their employees. Co. said it plans to take a roughly $40 million charge “My guess is that they’ll try to do more with fewer in its third quarter to account for the reform package’s people,” Federbush said. “It’s just going to continue to repeal of the tax benefit related to a Medicare subsidy make it more difficult for the importers and the whole- for retiree benefits. salers to stay profitable. I don’t think this will put the Credit Suisse analysts estimated companies in the nail in the coffin, but it’s just going to continue to make S&P 500 that pay for former employees’ benefits would them a little bit weaker.” reduce their deferred tax assets by a total of $4.5 billion Health care reform can be boiled down to how many — a “big hit to earnings” but small potatoes to overall people have access to or are covered by the new system, valuations. how good the care is and how much it costs. And that’s just the beginning. “This seems to have gone for the coverage leg of the By 2014 all legal U.S. residents will be required to three-legged stool, hoping the quality stays there,” said have health insurance or pay a tax penalty. Leon Nicholas, director of retail insights at Kantar Additionally, employers will be required to provide Retail. “I don’t see much in the way of real cost control their workers coverage, a provision which was op- and therefore I don’t see how this doesn’t effectively posed by the National Retail Federation and the Retail extend the burden of higher costs to more people. Industry Leaders Association. People in general want to see their society be healthi- Under the employer mandate, retailers with more er, but whether or not state mandates get you there is than 50 full-time employees who don’t offer insurance JOHN WILKES/GETTY IMAGES PHOTO BY another question.” to their full-time workers will face a $2,000 penalty per Still, the reforms could bring benefits that many don’t full-time employee after the first 30 such workers. see now. If a company offers “unaffordable” insurance to What we’re hearing from Mike Moriarty, partner and head of the retail prac- workers, defined as a plan costing an employee more “ tice at management consultant A.T. Kearney, said the than 9.5 percent of the individual’s family income, then our RILA members is almost process would help midsize companies better find cov- the employer will be slapped with a $3,000 fine for each erage by increasing transparency and reduce health such employee. If the cost exceeds 8 percent of the in- universal expectations that costs care price inflation as fewer people turn to emergency dividual employee’s family income, that individual may rooms for primary care. opt out of the employer’s plan, taking the employer con- will increase. And then there are the roughly 40 million uninsured tribution with him. ” — Jon Emling, RILA people who might spend more freely if they had a health Neil Trautwein, vice president and employee benefits care safety net, giving them more disposable income. policy council at the NRF, said a retailer with 100,000 the long-term effects of the health care reforms could “You’re going to see increased velocity of money, peo- employees could be fined $200 million if it decided not negatively impact retail hiring or act as a potential ple aren’t going to stick money into a mattress in case to offer or couldn’t afford the health care insurance. If disincentive for retailers to grow or to offer employee they get sick or break a leg or something,” Moriarty said. the same retailer offered an insurance plan but 25,000 health insurance. “If in a year or two years’ time, each of those individuals workers opted out in favor of a more affordable plan, “What we’re hearing from our RILA members is al- spent 100 bucks, that’s $4 billion. Getting more money the fine could be as much as $75 million. most universal expectations that costs will increase,” flowing into the economy will be a positive influence of Trautwein and Jon Emling, senior vice president for Emling said. the health care bill.” government affairs at RILA, both expressed concern Still, smaller employers might have the trickier task — With contributions from Liza Casabona

the back of its watches and applied for a copyright in the U.S. for the sole purpose of invoking the Copyright Supreme Court Weighing Appeal of ‘First-Sale’ Case Act to “restrict the resale of its products.” Costco also argued that, “under the first-sale doctrine By Kristi Ellis it has sold them to a foreign distributor. [a provision under U.S. copyright law], Omega’s initial At the center of the case is whether a provision under foreign sale of the watches precluded claims of infring- WASHINGTON — The Supreme Court is expected to meet U.S. copyright laws known as the “first-sale doctrine” ing distribution and importation in connection with on Friday to decide whether to hear a case brought by applies to imported goods. Under the doctrine, a manu- Costco’s subsequent sales.” Costco Wholesale Corp. against Omega SA challenging facturer’s rights to distribution of a product end upon The U.S. District Court for the Central District of whether Omega can use copyright law to control the dis- the first authorized sale it makes. The Solicitor General, California ruled in favor of Costco, but the Ninth Circuit tribution and resale of watches made lawfully abroad Elena Kagan, filed a brief recommending the court not Court of Appeals reversed the lower court’s decision, say- and imported into the U.S. hear the case. ing copies made abroad by the holder of a U.S. copyright The case has significant implications for off-price In 2004, Costco purchased 117 Seamaster style Omega for sale abroad are not subject to the first-sale defense. retailers and discounters that often purchase imported watches from a U.S. distributor. It was later revealed in The implications could be far reaching if the goods from middlemen and distributors at cheaper pric- discovery that Omega had sold some of the watches to Supreme Court declines to hear the case, letting the es, rather than purchasing directly from a manufacturer authorized foreign distributors in Egypt and Paraguay, circuit court’s ruling stand, or ultimately confirms or its authorized U.S. distributor, and then sell them in who subsequently resold them to a U.S. distributor, ac- its decision. the U.S. below the brand’s official price. Online auction cording to Costco’s court documents. “Manufacturers who sell globally will prefer to man- sites such as eBay also could be impacted by the case. Omega filed suit against Costco in 2004 after the ufacture their goods abroad because of the increased Costco filed a petition for a writ of certiorari in May, warehouse club sold 43 of the Seamaster Omega watch- control they will gain over subsequent use of their on appeal, asking the court to weigh whether Omega can es in its stores, alleging Costco’s acquisition and sale of products,” Costco said. “Conversely, retailers will be use a copyrighted image to control secondary distribu- the watches constituted copyright infringement. Costco hesitant to sell such products for fear of unintended li- tion and resale of its watches made in Switzerland once charged Omega created a laser-engraved emblem for ability or infringement.” WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 12, 2010 5 WWD.COM OBITUARY Retailer Sidney Burstein By Samantha Conti and Nina Jones LONDON — Sidney Burstein, who together with his wife, Joan, founded the Browns group of multibrand designer boutiques here, died April 5 after a long illness. He was 93. M. BENETT/GETTY DAVE IMAGESPHOTO BY Burstein, whose death was revealed late last week, was known for his keen business sense, foresight and generosity. During his years in retail, he and his wife employed legions of men and women who would become major industry play- ers, including Manolo Blahnik, Paul Smith, Tamara Mellon and Liz Earle. “He gave me my first break in life and was certainly a great mentor,” said Mellon, founder and president of Jimmy Choo. “I value what I learned from him to this day.” Philip Green, who knew the Bursteins for decades and once discussed buying Browns, said Burstein was “a one-off, an origi- Manolo Blahnik with nator. He and his wife made a wonderful team. He was very into Browns in London. Joan and Sidney Burstein. the detail of retail, and how the shops looked and worked.” Burstein also was famous for his quirky sense of humor. He’d sometimes ask young people on first meeting them whether they smoked — and complimented them heartily when they said no. And he was full of energy. Green said he remembered Burstein playing tennis at age 80. Browns, marking its 40th anniversary this year, rapidly became a leading light in retail, introducing myriad labels, including Giorgio Armani, Donna Karan, Ralph Lauren, Sonia Rykiel, Missoni and Calvin Klein to British customers. The store also was the first to carry then newcomers such as John Galliano, Hussein Chalayan and Alexander McQueen. Burstein was born in England on Feb. 21, 1917, the son of a Russian father and a Polish mother. In 1948, with Joan and his brother, Willie, he started selling underwear and lingerie in a shop called Wilbuer at the Apple Market in Kingston, out- side London. They later sold young women’s fashions, in addition to lingerie and loungewear, through a chain of stores on the high street. When that business collapsed in the mid-Sixties, Burstein, Joan and Willie started a boutique on High Street Kensington in London called Feathers, which was considered a hot destination for fashion lovers. The The Hudson’s Bay Company wishes to store, filled with glamorous bam- boo fixtures and vintage furni- extend our warmest congratulations to ture, employed a young Blahnik to sell Newman jeans. ERDEM MORALIOGLU on winning In 1970, the Bursteins’ son, Simon, was working part-time in the inaugural British Fashion a shop on South Molton Street, Council/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund. which Sidney would later purchase and turn into Browns. Over the years, Browns has expanded to include five intercon- necting shops on the street and a unit on Sloane Street. The family later opened Labels for Less, Browns Focus, Browns Bride and Browns Shoes. Eight years ago, Burstein launched the company’s Web site. While Browns always dealt in the rarefied world of designer labels, Burstein was not above rolling up his sleeves when required. In the early Nineties, he took to the streets to protest when the boutique’s landlord unceremoniously doubled the rents. “We’re doing it to make a statement,” Burstein told The Guardian at the time. >V]b]UÒ^VSR Burstein is survived by his ]\2O`WOES`P]eg wife, Joan; son, Simon, who took T]`BVS@]][ over as Browns’ chief executive BVS@]][@SbOWZ2SaWU\ 7\abWbcbS¸a7\bS`\ObW]\OZ officer in 2008, and Caroline Ab]`S]TbVSGSO`RSaWU\SR Burstein, who is creative direc- PgGOPc>caVSZPSÙ tor of the stores. Funeral services took place in London on Sunday. 6 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 12, 2010

SLIGHTLY SPACE AGE, BUT DARKER AND MORE FEMININE THAN THE STARK SIXTIES VERSIONS, FALL’S DEEP-HUED ACCESSORIES GLITTER WITH METALLIC FINISHES AND ACCENTS. — SHOSHANNA FISCHHOFF

Coach’s metallic leather bag.

Alberta Ferretti’s net and silk satin shoe. lt

Sergio Rossi’s Rebecca Taylor’s sequin and suede and elastic boot. Crystallized- BCBG Max Azria’s Swarovski aluminum mesh clutch. Elements bag. MILANDESIGNWEEK SECTION II

SLEEK AND CHIC There’s another dimension to “front-row seat” as designers gear up for the Salone del Mobile international furniture and design fair, running April 14 to 19 at the Milan Fairgrounds. Here, from top, new chairs from Yamakawa, Dima Loginoff and Cassina. 2 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 12, 2010

SECTION II WWD.COM

MILAN DESIGN WEEK For more on the scene in Milan, see WWD.com.

Fendi Diesel

Versace Blumarine Custom House By Alessandra Ilari need to mirror the person’s personality, just like a dress does.” Alberto Jelmini, Rosita Missoni’s brother and ceo of T&J Vestor, which pro- FOR ITALIAN FASHION HOUSES WITH A STRONG FOOTHOLD IN THE duces Missoni Home, echoed those thoughts. interior design arena, it’s all about the personal touch. “For us, any accessory for the living area — whether it’s a cushion, rugs, cur- Companies including Giorgio Armani, Versace, Bottega Veneta, Missoni, Etro, tains or a pouf — sells well because it adds character to the house without break- Fendi and Diesel are gearing up for the upcoming Salone del Mobile furniture ing the bank,” he said. Missoni Casa posted sales of $27 million in 2009. fair with a bullish outlook, buoyed by improved sales as well as consumers’ grow- In a quest to create a lifestyle project, on Thursday Blumarine will launch its first ing interest in customization. furnishings collection, a mix of contemporary design infused with classic elements. Many agreed the year was off to a good start with sales slowly inching up, and The new undertaking, licensed to Como-based Idea Due, is expected to rake cited the U.S., the U.K., France and Japan as markets on the rebound, with Russia in $13 million in the first year, according to Gianguido Tarabini, Blumarine’s and China close behind. administrator. Smaller objects such as vases, tabletop, cushions and home textiles are sure “We haven’t even unveiled the line and already we’re receiving requests for sellers, thanks to attainable price tags and because they inject a newness into personalized pieces,” said Tarabini, adding the existing collections of tableware the home. and home linens generate 15 percent of Blumarine’s licensing business. “People think twice before changing a sofa or a bed unless they After dabbling with kitchens last year, Giorgio Armani is taking on the bath- really have to, but they’ll gratify themselves with new sheets room. For the undertaking, he joined forces and ceramics,” noted Jacopo Etro, director for that company’s with Roca Group, a worldwide leader in this textiles and home units. sector. According to Fabrice Gouffran, director of Armani Casa and “We want to offer a complete collection of the company’s hotels division, 2009 sales fell from interior solutions so that customers are able the previous year’s $54 million mainly due to a to find an Armani treatment for all the main drop of traffic in the Armani Casa stores. spaces of their home,” said Gouffran. “That said, [the amount of] our average Etro and Missoni noted how teaming up single sale has increased and the first quar- with top hotels helped their bottom line. (For ter of 2010 is off to a good start,” he noted. more on designers and their hotel projects, “We expect significant growth this year.” see page 10). When setting up their dream homes, many After opening in Edinburgh, Missoni’s col- customers seek bespoke services to better orful stripes and zigzags will dress a namesake mirror their personal tastes. As a result, hotel in Kuwait City slated to open in June. companies have structured their home di- Etro reported 2009 sales of $13 million in visions with dedicated teams and produc- its interiors division, thanks to a one-off proj- tion facilities to cater to customization. ect that consisted of refurbishing 30 suites in The $94 million Versace Casa business Moscow’s luxe Hotel Ukraina with Etro lin- also promotes its interior design atelier ens, upholstery and ceramics. Etro fabrics and service, in which customers can choose cushions were also used to decorate the Asian- from a sea of prints, combinations and col- style Buddha Bar in Paris and Dubai, while the ors. Versace chief executive officer Gian one in Washington is in progress. Giacomo Ferraris said he is plotting two new “If these projects meet our requisites and partnerships aimed at increasing the Medusa- standards, then we’re more than happy to do logoed home line, although he declined to Etro + Kartell them,” said Etro, who forecast a 10 percent increase in disclose details. sales this year. This week, Versace will unveil a new edition of Vanitas, a chair designed by While the uncertain times pushed the firm to freeze Gianni Versace in 1994. Two Versace Casa boutiques have already opened this plans to launch a furniture line, Etro’s annual renditions of its classic paisley year, in Jakarta and Dubai, and two more are in the pipeline for Asia. design and well-known stripe motifs in soft dusty hues continue to be top sellers Design-centric, quality furniture is still perceived as a longer-lasting purchase in home textiles. than many other types of luxury goods, according to several executives. Bottega Veneta, which is looking to significantly boost distribution of the home “Interestingly, since we launched our first limited edition furniture pieces, line in yet-to-be-determined markets, is also looking to expand its involvement in we have noticed that customers purchasing these products seem to behave as the hospitality industry and in luxury private residential real estate. if they’re buying antiques,” contended Armani’s Gouffran. “Furniture and fur- It currently has a partnership with the St. Regis Hotel that has resulted in nishings are generally purchased more with a view toward long-term investment, Bottega Veneta suites in New York and Rome. while accessories and fashion are more of an impulse buy.” Fueled by the successful Craft Punk design event hosted last year with Design But as is the case with a great bag, the design and craftsmanship that charac- Miami, Fendi will repeat the undertaking at Salone del Mobile, this time called terize a piece of furniture are what set it apart. Design Vertigo. The interactive, work-in-progress angle is still at the heart of the “It’s very much in keeping with our philosophy to help the customer personal- project, which will transform Spazio Fendi into a design theater with viewers ize the pieces they select,” said Marco Bizzarri, ceo of Bottega Veneta. “And since who will interact and become part of the installations. every piece of furniture is handmade to order, customers can select the color and “Today, art needs design, which needs fashion because the various areas influ- material they want, including precious skins like crocodile, ostrich and python.” ence one another, stirring creativity,” said Burke. He added that some of the pieces produced for this year’s Salone del Mobile According to a Diesel spokesman, clients are very attentive to trends and ap- were inspired by special requests the company had received. proach home design the same way they approach fashion, always seeking out Michael Burke, ceo of Fendi, expects the house’s Fendi Casa division to de- news and innovation. liver double-digit sales growth this year. “That’s why our attitude when developing our home collections is to do pieces “People keep spending in their homes because of the cocooning effect and the thought to change the look of your home every year,” he said. “We try to introduce tremendous pride they take in how their houses look,” said Burke, adding the as many different fabric and material options as we can to give our customer the company also recently fully outfitted a 230-foot yacht with Fendi Casa. “Homes opportunity to make each piece even more special and unique.” credits on valcucine.it

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Valcucine Milano | Brera Corso Garibaldi 99 - MM2 Moscova Fuorisalone in Brera Design District - 14th-19th Aprile 2010 4 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 12, 2010 SECTION II

MILAN DESIGN WEEK Mobile Madness Here’s a selection of innovative products that will be seen at Salone del Mobile international home goods fair, which starts Wednesday and runs through April 19 in the Rho center at the Milan fairgrounds. S ALESSI A blank aluminum wall clock by Spanish designer Martí Guixé can be personalized with a special marker, included.

S SKITSCH Fire Lamp designed by 5.5 (a group of ﬁve young French designers) with a wooden base and a glass ﬂame.

S POLTRONA FRAU A rerelease of Guglielmo Ulrich’s Willy leather armchair, originally designed in 1937. S CASSINA An updated version of the Canapo S MERITALIA rocking sofa for the “Cassina Inspired by the world of engines, Fiat heir Lapo Elkann I Maestri” collection, originally designed the tongue-in-cheek Boing Boing coffee table with designed by Franco Albini. a stratiﬁed ﬁberglass top over a steel and rubber bolt base. WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 12, 2010 5 WWD.COM

S WOLFSON DESIGN An ergonomic counter by Philip Michael Wolfson is made with an innovative material called Hi-Mac by LG Surfaces. S POLIFORM Bed Bug by Paola Navone.

ARTEMIDE Ross Lovegrove’s Cosmic Landscape lamp made of S E15 transparent metacrylic. An oak-veneered plywood stool by German designer Stefan Diez. PHOTO BY MAXIM NILOV PHOTO BY

PAUL SMITH Paul Smith revisits Arne Jacobsen’s Cylinda polished steel kitchen collection for Stelton with ﬂashes of color and engraved phrases such as “Take pleasure seriously.”

S MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA AND CHEVALIER EDITION For the wool and silk carpet designed for the French Chevalier Edition, Maison Martin Margiela took inspiration from the designer’s ﬁrst show in 1988, when the models walked through red paint, leaving footprints on the white ﬂoor.

S CERRUTI BALERI MOROSO A calfskin-covered Medea S Inspired by California modern armchair designed by art from the Fifties, Patricia Alberto Colzani. Urquiola’s effort for Moroso, called Silver Lake, includes couches and armchairs crafted from wood, steel and fabric or leather.

S YAMAKAWA In line with the natural yet contemporary tradition of Tokyo-based rattan manufacturer

S VALCUCINE Yamakawa, Indonesian designer Artematica is the ﬁrst kitchen to be made from AlvinT turned out a collection comprising indoor and outdoor pieces in Poly recycled glass and aluminum, assembled with Peel, a synthetic ﬁber, woven on metal frames. The line includes Satool, a modular mechanical joints instead of glue. stool, and the Bench table, which also can be used as a seat. FROM 13TH TO 19TH OF APRIL 2010

8 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 12, 2010

SECTION II WWD.COM

MILAN DESIGN WEEK Bottega’s Tokyo Link BOTTEGA VENETA’S TOMAS MAIER HAS MASTERMINDED One to Watch: Dima Loginoff a string of projects during the Salone del Mobile that combine his love of the arts and his passion for all things Japanese. Besides presenting the house’s latest furniture and housewares collections, Maier organized a design competition in tandem with the University of Tokyo for students of the architecture department in the School of Engineering. The three winning designs will be announced at Bottega Veneta’s home presentation. The challenge was to design a piece of furniture that’s a functional seat and also takes into account Bottega Veneta’s tradition in quality, timeless design and handiwork. “The aim of the competition is to support these young

Akita pitchers will sell in Bottega Veneta’s pop-up store.

PERHAPS GOING FROM HAIRDRESSER TO INTER- and art, shouldn’t initially be guided by his habits, ior designer doesn’t seem like the most likely career but should be inclined to find new interests, subjects designers and artists by enabling them to present their path, but for Moscow native Dima Loginoff, the two dis- and love for styles, images, forms, color combina- [aesthetic] to the widest possible audience,” said Maier. ciplines have “more in common” than one might think. tions, etc. I’m also very interested in historic styles, Additionally, Bottega Veneta will arrange a pop-up store At 33, Loginoff is considered a promising young and this is pretty evident in some of my pieces. in its Milan headquarters to sell unique, travel-friendly talent in the interior design community. After spend- It may not be new, but I just bought a wonderful objects created by skilled Japanese craftsmen, plus its own ing 13 years as a hairstylist, Loginoff decided to book about Viktor & Rolf in London that is truly in- leather goods exclusive to the event. pursue interior design, graduating from Moscow’s spirational. It is about more than just fashion — it’s The Japanese items on sale were selected by Maier and International Design School in 2008 and, subse- about the art of fashion! As for historical styles, I like Seiichi Kamei, editor in chief of Casa Brutus, a design and quently, from the Rhodec School of Interior Design many of them — Art Deco, Renaissance and Baroque, architecture magazine. in London. He then retuned to Moscow, where he to name a few. But I guess at the moment, I am in love The offerings include such pieces as hand-cut glasses lives and works. with rococo, one of the most iconic styles. by Yasunori Kimura, a third-generation craftsman, for Among his more notable pieces are the Happy Taburo Corp.; Akita cedarwood pitchers by renowned Chaise Longue, an outdoor lounge chair that repeat- WWD: Do new technologies and medias influence you? artisan Yasutaka Shimizu, and a box featuring a traditional edly reproduces the pattern of a smile, and the Trunk, D.L.: Anything can influence my ideas — everything Japanese marquetry technique by Katsuhiro Kanazashi. a glass, chrome and metal suspension LED lamp in the that surrounds us, even deformity. New technologies “Putting together this special presentation has been shape of an elephant’s snout. and materials expand the range of design, allowing both an adventure and a pleasure,” said Maier. “I am a Loginoff shows at Salone Satellite, Fiera Milano-Rho, us to make previously impossible things possible. great admirer of Japanese craft and design and we created from Wednesday to April 19. He e-chatted with WWD You can make unbelievably long bar tables the store so that those who visit the exhibition can take about design and his journey from hair to Corian. from Corian, [put] projection systems something small and memorable home with them.” — Alessandra Turra inside furniture (like Ron Arad’s — Alessandra Ilari “poof ”), or [use] concrete that reveals drawings on its sur- WWD: Describe your evolution from hairstylist to face when wet. interior designer. Was it a natural step? Dima Loginoff: I was about eight years old when I The WWD: What will you show at Frette Marks 150 Years came across some international interior design Happy Salone, and what are your FRETTE IS CELEBRATING ITS 150TH ANNIVERSARY WITH magazines, and that’s when I fell in love with de- Chaise future projects? an exhibition dedicated to fashion at the new Palazzo sign. In the Soviet Union at the beginning of the Longue. D.L.: Studio Italia Design Morando Costume Moda Immagine exhibition space. The Nineties, there wasn’t much interest in that area, so started producing several venue is located in a stately, recently restored 18th-century there weren’t too many places in Russia where you lamps I designed and we will building in Milan’s golden shopping triangle near Via could learn how to be a design- be showing those in Milan. Montenapoleone. er. That’s why I decided All these pieces have already The show, “The Thread of Dreams-Il Filo dei Sogni- to become a hairstylist. received international awards. Frette 1860-2010,” displays historical jacquard weaves After many years, I un- I believe that this collection will designed for the national army or handmade patterns derstood that my have an interesting future. It’s created for luxury cruise experience as a hard to say what’s next — hopefully linens. Juxtaposed are ﬁlm hairstylist and my new offers from manufacturers. images featuring Frette interest in design and bed sheets and artistic art in general helped me approach what I am doing WWD: What do you expect from Milan Design Week? installations combining now in a deeper way. Hairstyling, fashion design, D.L.: This is a new experience for me. I really hope that past and modern multimedia, architecture and interior design have people will enjoy my lights and concepts. Elle Decor inﬂuences. “Heritage much more in common than one would think. Russia nominated me for Young Designer of the Year at and the future strongly Designers and hairdressers both work in a three- the Elle Decoration International Design Awards. The play against each other,” dimensional environment — the difference is that ceremony will take place in Milan during design week. said Enrico Marinelli, hairdressers actually work in 3-D, whereas design- president of Edmond ers may do so in more of a virtual sense (by using WWD: Do you think the industry gives enough space Frette. “The exhibition is computers, for example). But both initially come up to young designers? dynamic and interactive, with their ideas and design concepts in their heads. D.L.: It’s difficult to discuss this, coming from Russia. in a contemporary space, Young designers face difficulties everywhere, espe- not a typical museum, WWD: How would you describe your style? cially when there is no industry to support them. This A work in the that shows how the brand D.L.: Ironic. After the first impression, I hope people is why there are so few designers that are truly ap- Frette exhibition. remains contemporary and perceive a deeper, subtle irony. For example, the irony preciated here. But I am positive that whether you continues to set trends.” lies in taking the absolute traditional form of a lamp are new or experienced, if you have a fresh vision, A live performance and making it unconventional, while remaining within you will find your place on the international stage. — Home Couture Home — by Italian designer Angelo the limits of its original shape. This was the case with The competition forces some companies to un- Figus and fashion school Polimoda International Institute the Cage Lamp — I used the traditional form, but hid derstand that good design can bring the product to a Fashion Design & Marketing, will take place on Wednesday, the light source so that the viewer wonders for a mo- higher level in the market. While it doesn’t happen during the Salone del Mobile. ment where the light is coming from. very often, designers are brought into Russian com- The Frette exhibit will be held until May 2 and then panies for this purpose and it gives hope to [young move on to the Shanghai 2010 Expo. WWD: What are your favorite sources for inspiration, designers] that one day they might be in demand. To The three-story space, a project supported by Milan’s period and artist? be honest, it isn’t important where the designer is. fashion councillor, Massimiliano Finazzer Flory, also houses D.L.: I’m very sensitive to trends. I believe that any The important thing is that what they make can be historic dresses from the 1700s to the 1900s. designer, when dealing with contemporary design sold in Moscow, London, New York, everywhere. — Luisa Zargani

10 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 12, 2010

SECTION II WWD.COM

MILAN DESIGN WEEK Staying in Style

By Luisa Zargani The Burj Khalifa tower in Dubai will MILAN — Despite the economy and the travel industry’s recent doldrums, a num- house Giorgio Armani’s ﬁ rst hotel. ber of designer houses and luxury brands are forging ahead with their hotel businesses. Fashion executives see the opportunity as means for brand extension, as well as a way to promote their home lines to worldly consumers. Late last week alone, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton revealed it will open two more Cheval Blanc hotels as part of a new division called LVMH Hotel Management. The two hotels, in Oman and Aswan, Egypt, won’t be owned by LVMH, but it will collect management fees. Meanwhile, Moschino inaugurated its ﬁ rst hotel here in February during fashion week, and since has opened a new home store within the venue offering made-to-order furniture and design pieces. Creative director Rossella The bar in Missoni’s Jardini said she has been surprised by hotel in Kuwait City. early results. “I didn’t expect anything like this,” she said. “I thought perhaps people would want a pillow or a lamp from the hotel, but we are receiving orders for everything — from beds to armchairs.” Moschino partnered with Hotelphilosophy SpA, of the Mobygest Group, and refurbished a neoclassical train station that dates back to 1840. The hotel comprises 65 rooms, a restaurant by two-star Michelin chef Moreno Cedroni, a bar and a spa managed by Culti. The hotel is called Maison Moschino, and rooms have a fairy-tale theme, with names such as “Little Red Riding Hood.” They’re accessorized with built-in mock forests, chandeliers dripping with min- iature cakes or oversize evening gowns sprouting beds. Jardini said the hotel has been fully booked for the Salone del Mobile for a while. “There is a lot of curiosity surrounding this project and people from the design world are even more eager to experiment,” said Jardini, whose surreal and tongue-in-

Rosita Missoni, creative director of the brand’s home division, insisted, for example, on full views from all the rooms. Each room in Edinburgh looks onto the city’s majestic castle, and each room in Kuwait City faces the Arabian Sea. “I like to wake up, look out and be aware of where I am when I travel,” said Missoni. Just as several furnishings in Scotland drew from that country’s heritage, Missoni’s second hotel refl ects elements from Kuwait, without becoming too eth- nic. Details include gold details, favored in Middle Eastern countries, pepper curtains, patterns and bed rests. Floors are sand colored, inspired by the desert, while turquoise, reminiscent of the sea, is one of the hotel’s main hues. Discreet waterfalls decorate common areas. Rather than forcing a garden to bloom near the pool, the designer opted for a more natural expanse of cacti and aloe, indigenous to the area. Just as she Popcorn-style lights in uses only seasonal ingredients when she cooks, Missoni wanted a more local the reception hall at look for the garden. Maison Moschino. Missoni incorporated fl oral patterns in her designs for the hotel’s upholstery and ceramics, such as a combination of green, brown and beige dahlias, or turquoise, green, red and fuchsia passionfl owers. Outdoors, equally colorful designs cheek interior pieces are in sync with the brand’s ironic and whimsical style. of stylized cacti embellish seats, chaise longues and sunshades. Giorgio Armani’s design aesthetics and lifestyle concept also have been ap- The hotel covers all fl oors in an 18-story building, which Missoni describes as plied to his fi rst hotel, which will be unveiled April 22 in Dubai. a “violin key” or a “curl.” There are 169 rooms (including 63 suites), and three “My hotels will aim to bring to life my vision of hospitality,” said Armani, restaurants in the resort: the Choco Café, the Moka Bar and the Luna, which whose hotel business is a joint venture with Dubai-based real estate fi rm Emaar serves Italian cuisine by Giorgio Locatelli, who hails from the island of Sardinia. Properties PJSC. Missoni also has been asked to oversee the design of an 8,640-square-foot ball- Known for his meticulous attention to detail, it is not surprising for the design- room for weddings and formal events. Besides the linens and tableware, Missoni er to note that “every aspect of the Armani hotel experience will bear the Armani said she’s even been asked to design wedding cakes. signature.” The 432,000-square-foot hotel, located in the Burj Khalifa tower, is Missoni is already at work on the brand’s South African hotel in Cape Town, furnished with the Armani Casa line. The project comprises 160 guest rooms and which is slated to open in spring 2011. The designer is spinning the protea, the suites and 144 private residences. The designer’s second hotel is expected to country’s national fl ower, into one of Missoni’s colorful textile patterns. open in Milan next year. Other designer hotel projects in the pipeline include a Palazzo Versace open- Five years ago, Missoni’s colorful weaves and patterns caught the attention of ing next year in Dubai, the brand’s second resort in collaboration with Australian the Belgian Rezidor Hotel Group, which signed a licensing agreement to translate property developer Sunland Group Ltd. In 2000, a Palazzo Versace opened on the fashion brand’s heritage and highly identifi able look into the world of hotel- Australia’s exclusive Gold Coast tourist strip of Queensland. lerie. Last year, Missoni opened its fi rst hotel in Edinburgh, and in September it A group of 16 penthouses by Salvatore Ferragamo also will open sometime plans to open its second venue in Kuwait City, Kuwait. after 2012 in Dubai, and Bulgari’s third hotel, after Milan and Bali, is in the Similarities in concept exist between the locales, despite the obvious differ- works, located in Castagneto Carducci, Italy, in partnership with former Calvin ences in geography and cultural traditions of the two countries. Klein licensee Fingen SpA and its real estate division RDM.

THANKS TO :

DESIGNERS & BRANDS THE BEST OF EUROPEAN ACCADEMIA DI COSTUME E DI MODA / I AGATHA RUIZ DE LA PRADA / E LUCE ANDREA BRANZI PER VAN CLEEF & ARPELS / F INNOVATIVE LINEN ANGELO FIGUS / I ANTOINE BOUDIN / F DAL LINO STUDIO ARCHITETTURA ATTUALE : P. CESARETTI A. FABRICS AND YARNS JOINS DEDINI G. DI LORENZO / I AQUILANO RIMONDI / I CAMPER / E 2010 THE CREATIVITY CELINE WRIGHT / F CERRUTI BALERI / I CHRISTIAN GHION / F CHRIS MESTDAGH / B CURATORS OF 50 INTERNATIONAL DAVID WISEMAN / US DOMUS ACADEMY MILD 2009-2010 / I TERESA SAPEY ELIO FIORUCCI DESIGNER / I & ORNELLA BIGNAMI DESIGNERS AND BRANDS ELLE DECOR I / I ERMANNO SCERVINO / I ETRO / I FRANÇOIS AZAMBOURG / F GIANVITO ROSSI / I GIOVANNI BEDIN / I GIULIO CEPPI / TOTAL TOOL / I BY MASTERS OF LINEN 13 – 19 APRIL INTERNI / I JEAN-MARIE MASSAUD / F JEFF ZIMMERMANN / US EUROPEAN LINEN VIA MONTENAPOLEONE KWANGHO LEE / J LA PERLA / I OF QUALITY MILANO LARUSMIANI / I MARIO BUCCELLATI / I MASSIMO CAIAZZO / I MATTEO THUN & SPACECANNON / I MAX MARA / I MISSONI HOME / I NATHALIE AUZEPI DESIGN 4 / F NOE DUCHAUFOUR LAWRANCE / F OSCAR NARUD / UK PAOLA NAVONE / I PETER MARIGOLD / UK PIERO LISSONI / I ROBERTO CAVALLI / I SETSU & SHINOBU ITO / J TERESA SAPEY / E WUNDERKIND / D YAEL MER & SHAY ALKALAY : RAW EDGES / UK

DESIGNERS BY NELLY RODI WWW.NELLYRODI.COM ANDREA CREWS / F AURÉLIE MATHIGOT / F FRÉDÉRIQUE MORREL / F PASCAL GAUTRAND / F VÉRONIQUE MAIRE / F

NOW ! DESIGN À VIVRE, 2020 GENERATION WWW.NOWDESIGNAVIVRE.COM MARIE-AURORE STIKER / F MATHIEU LEHANNEUR / F PHILIPPE NIGRO / F SAM BARON / F

EUROPEAN SPINNERS HUNGAROLEN / HU IAFIL / I JOS VANNESTE / B LINIFICIO E CANAPIFICIO NAZIONALE / I NATURAL FANTASY / I SAFILIN / F STANISLAS COCK NV / B

EUROPEAN WEAVERS ALBINI COTONIFICIO / I ALEXANDRE TURPAULT / F AZNAR TEXTIL / E CANCLINI TESSILE / I COLTEX / I CRESPI 1797 / I DELTRACON / B DRIESSEN LEINEN / D F.LLI GRAZIANO / I FELITEX / I FLIPTS & DOBBELS / B GIUSEPPE BELLORA / I JOHN ENGLAND / UK KLASIKINE TEKSTILE / LI LAN. F.LLI ORMEZZANO / I LAPUAN KANKURIT OY / FIN LARUSMIANI / I LEITNER / A LEMAITRE DEMEESTERE / F LIBECO - LAGAE / B LINEA TESSILE ITALIANA / I LINIFICIO E CANAPIFICIO NAZIONALE / I MARTINELLI GINETTO / I MICHELE SOLBIATI SASIL / I NELEN & DELBEKE N.V. / B O.J. VAN MAELE / B PANNONFLAX / HU SAMPEDRO / P SEIDRA TEXTILWERKE / A SIULAS / LT TELENE CASA / I TESSITURA ENRICO SIRONI / I TESSITURA MONTI / I TESSUTI DI SONDRIO / I VERILIN/ B VIEBÖCK LEINEN / A ZIBETTI E ORSINI / I

EUROPEAN EDITEURS BISSON BRUNEEL / F DESIGNERS GUILD / F EDMOND PETIT / F ELITIS / F GANCEDO / E L’HUB / I MORRIS & CO / UK OSBORNE & LITTLE / UK ROMO FABRICS / UK SANDERSON & SON / UK SEQUANA / F SOUVERAINE / B TESSILARTE / I VENESTO / F WWW.LINENANDHEMPCOMMUNITY.EU ZOFFANY / UK WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 12, 2010 7 WWD.COM

Bruno Frisoni’s leather and polyester shoe. Versace’s patent leather bag.

Sang A’s lizard bag.

Fenton’s sandstone, velvet, brass and crystal necklace.

Alejandro Ingelmo’s lamé pony hair boot.

Luc Kieffer’s Lucite and Swarovski crystal cuff. PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE 8 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 12, 2010 WWD.COM

Offerings from the Cole Haan fall collection. MEMO PAD KATE’S MYTH MISSES: Kate Moss may be gold at retail, but the British model apparently holds

PHOTOS BY ROBERT MITRA ROBERT PHOTOS BY less appeal for patrons of the arts. Les Arts Décoratifs in Paris said Friday that it was canceling its planned exhibition on the “Kate Moss myth” in advertising due to a dearth of sponsorship. “Cultural patronage is not a priority for companies,” said a spokeswoman for the museum. The exhibition, originally slated to open this year, had already been postponed to next March. Moss designs collections for Topshop and Longchamp, which saw sales in its own stores spike 25 percent in February, the month her handbag line was introduced. She Cole Haan Blends the Old and New for Fall Line has strong links to the art world, having posed for the likes of Marc COLE HAAN’S FALL COLLECTION RE- provides tread on high heels and the use of from shoulder bag to cross body and also Quinn, Sam Taylor-Wood, Gary Hume flects an effort by the 82-year-old acces- Nike Air construction in shoes, which are a clutch. and Lucian Freud. — Joelle Diderich sories brand to build on core values em- designed for comfort and function. Many Key footwear shapes include riding and phasized by chief executive officer Dave boot styles are waterproof with shearling, motorcycle boots and ankle boots on a sti- McTague — heritage, craftsmanship and equestrian buckles and corset details. letto or platform heel. timeless styles — and spice them up with In line with Nike corporate policy, Cole Prices in the collection range from $78 for fresh creativity. Haan no longer incorporates exotic skins a zip pouch to $2,495 for a shearling coat. Representing contemporary American such as python in the collection, so now The Maria Sharapova for Cole Haan styles, several handbags feature a new there are crocodile-embossed suede bags Collection, designed by the tennis star leather weaving method unique to Cole in colors like plum and slate. and now in its fourth season, is more Haan; there are over-the-knee riding boots Key handbag shapes include a small duf- trend-driven, featuring studded over-the- that fold over to reveal a wool herringbone fle done in loden or caramel leather with knee boots, high-heeled velvet lace up lining and high-heeled oxfords. woven straps. There are also several con- sandals and elegant skimmers in leopard Innovation abounded at the Nike, Inc.- vertible bags such as a shoulder bag with hair calf, aubergine and India ink. owned brand, including pod technology that a new fob — a horse pick — that converts — Sophia Chabbott

wore them, they paid too much. So we have Kenneth Cole Wades Into Social Media to speak to them in different ways.” Asked after his talk about what he’s By Holly Haber do this because I can impose my points of hearing from consumers via social media, view on still more people, unsuspecting Cole replied: “They want shoes that they DALLAS — Kenneth Cole admitted to feel- people…and I can use that vehicle to com- can wear that serve their lifestyle needs, ing a bit befuddled by social media during a municate social messages.” and they are very excited with the notion speech Tuesday night at Southern Methodist In his presentation, Cole recounted the of comfortable and versatile and practical. A LITTLE TOUCH-UP IS FINE: Fergie University, but he’s full-speed ahead anyway. history of his company and its commitment They like lower heels rather than higher certainly supports those who “There is this stuff called blogging and to promoting AIDS awareness and support- heels, but then there is always that woman support her, even if it means giving friending and following, which makes me ing research. who wants high heels.” up a precious few hours off from dizzy, but I have committed to be part of that Regarding the Internet revolution, he de- He said that, while cause marketing is the Black Eyed Peas’ BlackBerry- journey because I know it is so relevant to scribed a “whole new business landscape” expanding, companies must do it with in- sponsored world tour. Fergie the world we are living in,” said Cole, a guest of consumers with short attention spans who tegrity or risk a backfire. attended a luncheon hosted by Elle’s speaker in SMU’s Tate Lecture Series. are bombarded with information. “Everybody is struggling to figure out how Robbie Myers and Joe Zee on Friday “It’s amazing because now there is “The consumer is uncompromising — to have a voice and how to get involved in at the Crosby Street Hotel to both this dialogue, and now you know specifi- they want everything on their terms, when something important,” Cole noted. “It’s not celebrate her May Elle cover and cally what [consumers] are looking for,” he they want it and how they want it,” Cole about creating a message and then holding generate buzz for the launch of her said. “Then there is this other thing called said. “Customers realize today that the up a flag. It has to be an organizational com- first fragrance, Outspoken by Fergie, Twitter, which is so confounding I can’t tell value equation is very different. They can mitment…or it doesn’t mean anything, and it out Stateside this fall from Avon. But you. So I am tweeting like a jerk. I have to buy a pair of shoes for $1, and if they never probably would work against one to do that.” the singer was relatively demure as she made her way around the room, chatting with guests including Lance Bass, Zachary Quinto, Anthony Mackie, Georgina Chapman, Whitney Port, Peter Som, Brian Atwood and Chris Benz. “I didn’t want to call it Dutchess, or Glamorous, or Fergalicious, or something that I’ve already done,” Fergie said of naming her fragrance. “I didn’t want it to be so cutesy. I wanted it to be strong and empowering, something that represents me as a whole woman, a fearless woman.” (Her husband, Josh Duhamel, on hand for the event, claimed to be a big fan of the scent, but for another reason. “I didn’t like what she was wearing before, but I never told her,” the actor said. “But this is good. It just works with my nose, I think.”) The diminutive and oft- photographed singer also weighed in on the ongoing retouching debate. “I expect it because it’s part of the norm now,” Fergie said. “Sometimes I feel that they over-retouch things and it makes people look funny.” Belying the name of her scent, however, she declined to give examples. As for her own retouching requests, she said: “Of course, if there’s a big roll of flab coming out somewhere that doesn’t look flattering, sure, I’d love that to be lessened, but I don’t like to look like a cartoon character, either. I think everything in moderation.” Alas, Moderation by Fergie doesn’t pack the same punch. — Nick Axelrod WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 12, 2010 9 WWD.COM Financial Execs Cite Mix of Innovation, Core Values Takashimaya Profit Drops 34.4%

As Key Factors for Growing a Business TOKYO — Japanese department store operator cent from last year. By Marcy Medina Takashimaya Co. posted a net profit of 7.7 bil- The company said in March it would close its lion yen, or $82.6 million at average exchange, New York store on Fifth Avenue in June, and TUCSON, Ariz. — Top industry executives at the 14th annual Global for the year ended Feb. 28, down 34.4 percent it had scrapped plans to merge with fellow de- Retailing Conference said established brands need to blend their from last year. partment store operator O Retailing Corp., of core values with cutting-edge creative and business strategies in The retailer blamed the drop on continued the Hankyu and Hanshin chains. The company order to grow and thrive. weak consumer spending, brought on by a com- said Friday that under its new long-term strat- Wesley R. Card, president and chief executive officer of the $3.3 bination of consumer anxiety regarding the cur- egy it is aiming to reduce operating costs and billion Jones Apparel Group Inc. said the U.S. is entering an “era rent global economic situation and Japan’s aging strengthen management. of consequences,” which he defined as a transition between the so- society. It also cited the continued low perfor- For the fiscal year ending Feb. 28, 2011, called new frugality of consumers and the return of materialism. mance of the department store industry in gen- Takashimaya is forecasting a 3.8 percent increase “We are somewhere in the middle…which means a change in eral in Japan. in net profit, at 8 billion yen, or $85.9 million at buying criteria,” Card said here Friday at the closing of the two- Operating profit dropped 45.9 percent to 13.43 current exchange. Sales are seen totaling 846.5 day conference presented by the University of Arizona’s Terry J. billion yen, or $143.8 million. Net sales came in at billion, or $9.08 billion, a decrease of 3.6 percent. Lundgren Center for Retailing. 877.76 billion yen, or $9.4 billion, down 10.1 per- — Kelly Wetherille Luxury is making a slow comeback, Card said, citing a “climate for growth….No growth is not an option. You grow or you die.” Jones’ growth is pegged to several factors, including innovating and reinventing core brands, such as Jones New York and Nine West, and acquiring labels such as Rachel Roy and the Robert Rodriguez Vineyard Vines Adds Merchandising Executive Collection, which have the potential to expand, Card said. VINEYARD VINES IS ADDING TO ITS TEAM. The Stamford, Conn.-based apparel and accessories brand has hired Bill Mahar as vice president of merchandising. Mahar was most recently with Phillips-Van Heusen Corp. as executive vice president of merchandising for the Licensing Group. Prior to that he was the general merchandise manager of men’s and women’s apparel at Puma North America in Boston. He spent nearly 12 years with the Polo Ralph Lauren Corp., beginning as a cashier and working his way up to serve as a brand merchandiser for Polo Sport, Polo Golf and Polo Sportswear during his tenure.

PHOTO BY MICHAEL CHANSLEY PHOTO BY “Bill brings a tremendous amount of experience to Vineyard Vines and we are ready and eager to learn from him,” said co-founder and chief executive ofﬁcer Shep Murray. “Bill will play a huge part in further developing our collection. He will be working closely with our designers, as well as Ian and I, to streamline our vision for the brand. We’re excited to have him on board.” Vineyard Vines was founded in 1998 by Murray and his brother Ian as a neckwear company. Since then, the company has expanded into additional products for men, women and children, including sportswear, accessories and golfwear. The line is sold in more than 600 specialty and department stores, and there are nine freestanding stores in Boston, Edgartown, Nantucket and Mashpee, Mass.; Greenwich and Westport, Conn.; Memphis; Key Largo, Fla., and Washington. — Jean E. Palmieri

Terry J. Lundgren, Rachel Roy and Wesley R. Card. In particular, Card pointed to Jones’ L.E.I. denim label, which he Some things should said was stalled doing volume of $65 million before it was reinvigo- rated by an exclusive with Wal-Mart Stores Inc. and the hiring of never change. Taylor Swift as a spokeswoman, which resulted in revenue of $250 million in the first season. Referring to the company’s recession challenges, Card said, “Our sales were down considerably last year, but our core brands have stabilized.” In February, Jones said it narrowed its fourth-quarter losses and issued a bullish sales forecast for the year. Jones acquired a 50 percent stake in Rachel Roy about two years ago. During a question-and-answer session with Terry J. Lundgren, chairman, president and ceo of Macy’s Inc., Roy spoke about the difficulties faced by a small design house and the benefits of innovation through partnership. Before the deal with Jones, Roy said: “Every two weeks, I didn’t know how I was going to pay my employees. Certainly, I would not be in business without Jones.” Roy, who has dressed First Lady Michelle Obama, Oprah Winfrey and Kate Hudson, among others, said the partnership with Jones led to her Rachel Rachel Roy contemporary line exclusive for Macy’s, which allowed her to keep her design aesthetic at a more acces- sible price point. And Lundgren said it is Macy’s most successful contemporary line. The necessity for innovation, a theme of the conference, was also 6\Y JSPLU[Z RUV^ [OL` JHU YLS` VU [OLPY YLSH[PVUZOPW ^P[O 4PSILYN -HJ[VYZ a focus of Wesley McDonald, executive vice president and chief fi- >L^VYRL]LY`KH`[VWYV]PKL[OLJYLKP[Z\WWVY[[OH[LHJOVULULLKZ-YVT nancial officer of Kohl’s Corp. “We’ve doubled our size in six years and gone from a Midwestern [V[VKH`V\YÄYTOHZWYV]PKLKMHJ[VYPUNHUKÄUHUJPUNZLY]PJLZ[OH[HYLZVSPK company to a national company,” he said. “Our geographic expan- Z[YHPNO[MVY^HYKHUKMV\UKLKVUHUVSKMHZOPVULKWYVTPZL!ÔLU`V\ULLK\Z sion was one of the driving forces for innovation in merchandise ^LHYL[OLYL content,” which is a prerequisite “to keep your existing customers and attract new ones.” >L WSHJL NYLH[ ]HS\L VU V\Y I\ZPULZZ YLSH[PVUZOPWZ 0U IV[O IVVT [PTLZ HUK Exclusive national brands such as Simply Vera by Vera Wang, WLYPVKZVMJOHSSLUNL^LZ[H`JVTTP[[LK[VV\YJSPLU[ZHUK[V[OLPYL]VS]PUNULLKZ Daisy Fuentes, LC Lauren Conrad and Dana Buchman now consti- tute about 16 percent of Kohl’s business “and we expect it to grow 4PSILYN-HJ[VYZPZZVSPKSÌ\PS[KLKPJH[LK[VZLY]PJLHUKMVJ\ZLKVU[OLSVUN over time as customers become aware of the number of exclusive [LYT0M`V\»KSPRL[VSLHYUTVYLNP]L\ZHJHSS brands” being offered, he said. “You have to be innovative because what people want is con- stantly changing,” McDonald said, adding that fresh approaches to business get a big boost “when you have the money to do so.” Increased penetration from private and exclusive brands helped Milberg Factors, Inc. Kohl’s, which has 1,058 stores, and is represented in every state A Tradition of Entrepreneurial Finance except Hawaii, boost its gross margins and post a 28.3 percent increase in profits during the fourth quarter. “If you innovate and invest, your stock price will take care of itself,” McDonald said. www.milbergfactors.com Tom Julian, president of the Tom Julian Group brand consul- tancy, said, “Heritage and history are two major trends. Brands can take advantage of this now if they have it.” Call Dan Milberg, SVP, NY 212.697.4200 “The future belongs to visionaries,” he said. “New experiences Dave Reza, SVP, LA 818.649.8662 like lifestyle centers are changing the consumer’s perception of ©2010 Milberg Factors, Inc. shopping, which changes the game for retailers.” 10 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 12, 2010 WWD.COM Financial For full daily stock changes and more financial news, see WWD.com / business-news. March Comps Boost Stocks WEEKLY STOCKS 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT By Arnold J. Karr High Low Companies P/E Last Change High Low Companies P/E Last Change STRONG MARCH SAME-STORE RESULTS PRO- 48.25 22.20 Abercrombie & Fitch (ANF) - 24024185 49.98 3.33 37.21 23.45 J.C. Penney (JCP) 28.7 38852987 31.52 -1.41 pelled retail stocks higher again on Friday, lifting the 18.53 11.11 Acadia (AKR) 22.1 1036525 18.33 0.37 8.00 2.56 Jaclyn (JCLY) - 0 6.79 0.00 S&P Retail Index 3.7 percent last week and 13.9 per- 3.78 0.39 Aeffe * (AEF:MI) - 257523 0.41 0.00 3.60 0.36 Joe’s Jeans (JOEZ) 8.6 28805837 2.90 0.16 cent for the year-to-date. 30.87 18.73 Aéropostale (ARO) 19.9 14705284 30.38 0.98 20.41 5.16 Jones Apparel (JNY) - 7685801 21.06 1.78 After their release on Thursday, the best monthly 30.04 20.47 Alberto Culver (ACV) 21.5 2374913 27.12 0.63 59.98 29.50 Jos. A. Bank (JOSB) 15.5 2275905 59.85 3.00 store sales numbers in a decade helped elevate the index 6.97 2.42 American Apparel (APP) 325.0 1477300 3.22 0.06 14.61 6.24 Kenneth Cole (KCP) - 457308 14.87 1.53 0.4 percent on Friday to 468.26, its high-water mark for 19.86 12.56 American Eagle (AEO) 21.5 37893287 17.77 -0.69 16.55 8.16 Kimco Realty (KIM) - 28334528 16.40 0.66 the past 52 weeks. Meanwhile, the Dow Jones Industrial 22.23 5.61 Ann Taylor (ANN) - 8409128 21.20 -0.32 60.89 40.64 Kohl’s (KSS) 17.5 23348564 56.84 1.50 Average briefly passed 11,000, as it did four out of five 568.00 112.50 Asos * (ASC:L) 40.1 2131081 557.50 40.00 13.15 7.43 K-Swiss (KSWS) - 739120 13.20 2.94 days last week, but failed to close at or above it, ending 36.39 20.63 Avon (AVP) 23.3 14485061 34.33 0.20 17.42 7.42 LaCrosse Footwear (BOOT) 18.1 13629 15.68 0.38 the week at 10,997.35. The Dow was up 0.6 percent for both the day and the week and has advanced 5.5 percent 9.66 5.25 Bebe (BEBE) - 3740468 8.97 0.00 26.38 9.71 Limited Brands (LTD) 19.2 28767140 26.62 1.82 since Jan. 1. It last closed above 11,000 on Sept. 26, 2008, 56.72 28.70 Beiersdorf * (BEI:GR) 26.7 2340463 44.10 -0.36 8.03 2.40 Liz Claiborne (LIZ) - 11876342 8.27 0.71 just after the onset of the financial meltdown. 13.30 4.30 Benetton Group * (BEN:MI) 8.4 1289961 6.20 0.02 3.98 0.63 LJ Intl. (JADE) 18.3 704489 2.78 -0.03 Earlier on Friday, Moody’s Investors Service 1.80 0.26 Birks & Mayors (BMJ) - 11300 0.82 0.10 99.97 46.00 L’Oréal * (OR:PA) 26.0 4429644 79.89 0.92 changed its industry sector outlook for U.S. retail- 39.59 29.73 BJs (BJ) 15.0 6883154 37.72 0.82 43.36 9.98 Lululemon (LULU) 52.3 4507067 43.66 1.97 ers to “positive” from “stable” based on its belief that 0.09 0.02 Blue (BLHI) - 33850 0.02 -0.01 26.66 9.41 Luxottica * (LUX:MI) 30.0 4187119 20.40 0.42 credit conditions for the industry will “materially im- 3.14 1.00 Bluefly (BFLY) - 34063 2.95 0.20 89.40 38.10 LVMH * (MC:PA) 23.8 6501680 88.39 -0.21 prove” over the next 12 to 18 months. 15.03 1.50 Bon-Ton (BONT) - 1738040 15.62 2.16 42.64 10.16 Macerich (MAC) 27.8 8026553 41.99 3.22 Margaret Taylor, Moody’s senior credit officer, said 16.49 4.67 Brown Shoe (BWS) 73.9 1574904 16.56 0.68 22.95 10.27 Macy’s Inc. (M) 27.3 48523278 23.51 1.17 comparable-store sales growth is expected to moder- ate from the high level in March, which was helped 39.25 25.52 Buckle (BKE) 13.9 3594086 37.68 0.52 22.92 9.60 Maidenform (MFB) 14.0 1249640 21.84 -0.49 by the early timing of Easter and some of the weakest 11.48 2.76 Bulgari * (BUL:MI) - 6058592 6.24 0.07 669.00 191.90 Marks & Spencer * (MKS:L) 11.5 45643396 370.20 -1.70 year-ago comparisons on record. “But we do expect 745.50 154.75 Burberry * (BRBY:L) - 7115719 697.50 -27.50 27.67 14.62 Men’s Wearhouse (MW) 28.3 2684943 24.89 1.00 growth,” she added. 18.20 9.80 Cabela’s (CAB) 24.1 2425200 17.68 -0.14 15.56 6.13 Movado (MOV) - 1277298 13.46 2.34 Consumers have become “comfortable with the 6.27 2.61 Caché (CACH) - 540222 6.30 0.76 24.07 14.95 National Retail Prop. (NNN) 39.8 3852266 23.88 1.03 lukewarm economic environment,” Taylor noted. 54.20 22.06 Carrefour * (CA:PA) 80.6 12583558 37.40 0.67 6.11 2.72 New York & Co. (NWY) - 1031989 4.90 0.11 — With contributions from Alexandra Steigrad 32.13 19.17 Carter (CRI) 16.2 2974784 31.64 0.50 0.41 0.07 NexCen (NEXC) - 349268 0.10 0.00 4.20 0.36 Casual Male (CMRG) 26.8 496647 3.81 -0.08 75.35 48.76 Nike (NKE) 21.1 11757991 75.18 1.17 23.88 15.27 Cato (CATO) 15.3 1035378 23.60 1.47 43.42 18.15 Nordstrom (JWN) 20.6 14705215 42.55 1.05 Card Activation Sues More Stores 15.63 3.16 CBL (CBL) - 8204788 15.08 0.88 22.98 13.20 Orchids Paper (TIS) 8.7 274228 16.44 -0.08 6.39 2.74 CCA (CAW) 12.7 91263 6.20 0.27 25.62 7.06 Oxford (OXM) 23.7 484496 21.60 0.75 By Matthew Lynch 1.97 0.30 Charles & Colvard (CTHR) - 121801 1.80 -0.04 7.25 1.50 Pacific Sunwear (PSUN) - 5047097 5.88 0.30 CARD ACTIVATION TECHNOLOGIES INC., WHICH 6.91 2.04 Charming Shoppes (CHRS) - 20665861 5.73 0.42 2.61 1.38 Parlux Fragrances (PARL) - 374671 2.33 0.08 holds a patent on debit card-related technology and 24.43 15.60 Cherokee (CHKE) 14.6 253945 19.25 1.29 14.33 3.87 Penn Real Estate (PEI) - 2816365 14.07 1.55 has a reputation for litigiousness, again has filed an in- 15.43 6.36 Chico’s (CHS) 36.8 16476928 14.57 0.11 24.97 3.91 Perry Ellis (PERY) 24.1 699098 24.44 1.01 fringement lawsuit against several apparel retailers. 46.15 22.24 Children’s Place (PLCE) 14.9 2264001 45.47 0.23 61.39 24.11 Phillips-Van Heusen (PVH) 19.9 4890437 62.67 4.40 Macy’s Inc., J.C. Penney Co. Inc., Nordstrom Inc., 9.30 3.91 Christopher & Banks (CBK) - 2218509 9.15 1.05 0.98 0.15 Phoenix Footwear (PXG) - 10378 0.63 0.03 Guess Inc. and the Fashion Bug and Lane Bryant divi- 30.85 21.30 Cintas (CTAS) 25.9 4221398 27.74 -0.28 89.84 45.25 Polo Ralph Lauren (RL) 21.9 3134659 89.73 3.20 sions of Charming Shoppes Inc. were among 10 defen- 35.20 20.92 Citi Trends (CTRN) 25.6 518434 35.23 2.13 141.50 31.06 PPR * (PP:PA) 60.1 2570212 104.00 3.60 dants the company accused of violating its patent in a suit filed in U.S. District Court in Kansas City, Mo., 41.03 17.81 Coach (COH) 20.2 14520655 41.34 1.20 24.00 13.76 PriceSmart (PSMT) 16.6 305676 23.92 0.45 in February. Card Activation Technologies alleged the 9.20 2.70 Coldwater Creek (CWTR) - 4318714 7.63 0.75 5.79 1.20 Quiksilver (ZQK) - 17459111 5.60 0.38 retailers have processed debit and gift cards in ways 87.39 57.15 Colgate Palmolive (CL) 19.3 10910170 84.27 -1.54 10.97 5.26 R.G. Barry (DFZ) 11.4 278609 10.47 0.03 that infringe on a patent it received in 2000. 24.31 9.66 Collective Brands (PSS) 18.0 3831387 22.86 -0.28 11.99 7.00 Ramco-Gershenson (RPT) 18.9 1785347 12.14 0.70 The Chicago-based firm licenses its processing meth- 55.20 29.48 Columbia Sprtswr (COLM) 27.3 748817 56.57 2.86 41.71 28.10 Regency Centers (REG) - 4323604 38.30 0.84 od and has a history of suing retailers over the patent. 62.12 44.03 Costco (COST) 23.4 16836866 61.21 1.07 10.19 1.60 Retail Ventures (RVI) - 602253 9.76 0.06 Last year, it filed a similar suit against Barneys New York, 9.00 1.55 Crocs (CROX) - 14829506 8.76 -0.02 19.87 2.47 Revlon (REV) 15.8 572447 15.05 0.21 Bebe Stores Inc. and Casual Male Retail Group Inc. 0.20 0.04 Cygne Designs (CYDS) - 0 0.06 0.00 83.00 14.18 Richemont * (CFR:VX) 69.3 8994089 41.85 0.25 The latest complaint also names outdoor outfit- 144.22 48.70 Deckers Outdoor (DECK) 15.8 1360912 142.40 3.96 56.54 34.74 Ross Stores (ROST) 15.8 13407986 55.88 2.46 ter Cabela’s Inc. and food and beverage operators 2.88 1.57 Delia’s (DLIA) - 757598 1.79 0.07 36.48 22.26 Rue21 (RUE) - 1148151 35.49 1.22 Starbucks Corp. and Panera Bread Co. as defendants. Card Activation Technologies is seeking unspecified 16.00 4.92 Delta Apparel (DLA) 15.3 103212 15.60 -0.34 3.72 0.28 Safilo * (SFL:MI) - 57398762 0.46 0.03 damages and legal fees. 29.07 6.39 Destination Maternity (DEST) 23.2 210480 28.46 2.89 9.57 2.23 Saks (SKS) - 25303110 9.24 0.34 Nordstrom spokeswoman Tara Darrow said Friday 13.28 2.45 Developers Diversified (DDR) - 19713992 13.68 1.38 9.10 5.11 Sally Beauty (SBH) 14.9 1927462 8.91 -0.01 that the company believes its process for handling trans- 27.19 15.67 Dick’s Sporting Goods (DKS) 23.4 4952764 27.76 1.46 111.50 49.80 Sears (SHLD) 53.3 2977426 107.03 -1.72 actions at point of sale does not infringe on any of Card 26.15 6.37 Dillard’s (DDS) 27.7 4567662 26.92 2.86 87.93 38.00 Simon Property Group (SPG) 80.7 12699223 86.09 1.62 Activation Technologies’ patent rights. Said Darrow: 27.10 21.30 Dollar General (DG) 45.7 2580160 26.47 0.95 38.64 7.46 Skechers (SKX) 33.2 3323514 38.76 1.74 “We’ll defend ourselves and we’re working with other re- 28.38 13.09 Dress Barn (DBRN) 20.0 12613770 28.39 1.72 0.75 0.28 Sport-Haley (SPOR) - 0 0.70 0.00 tailers named in the lawsuit who intend to do the same.” 29.78 9.12 DSW (DSW) 21.2 1103255 26.08 0.32 15.95 9.37 Stage Stores (SSI) 20.5 808398 15.49 -0.13 Charming Shoppes said it does not comment on 19.14 9.46 Duckwall-Alco (DUCK) 65.5 19731 14.03 -0.39 13.75 3.14 Stein Mart (SMRT) 18.0 765411 9.66 0.60 pending litigation. The other defendants did not re- spond to requests for comment. 19.50 6.07 Elizabeth Arden (RDEN) 39.1 519195 18.33 0.13 52.80 20.07 Steve Madden (SHOO) 19.2 2020763 53.89 4.93 65.98 25.92 Estée Lauder (EL) 31.4 8622066 65.46 -0.12 76.50 23.05 Swatch Group * (UHRN:SW) 4.4 575867 62.05 -0.75 39.73 25.52 Family Dollar (FDO) 16.5 23108322 38.49 1.49 10.68 5.11 Syms (SYMS) 10.5 62829 10.14 0.04 17.99 6.53 Finish Line (FINL) 26.7 4395884 16.94 0.20 14.35 1.86 Talbots (TLB) - 25318293 14.35 0.77 WEEKLY 15.72 9.38 Foot Locker (FL) 50.9 13088673 15.30 -0.11 4.61 1.73 Tandy Brands (TBAC) - 53319 4.00 0.44 CHANGE WWD 39.96 17.00 Fossil (FOSL) 18.7 2417987 38.92 0.11 4.78 1.90 Tandy Leather Factory (TLF) 15.0 61098 4.46 0.54 2.54 0.46 Frederick’s of Hollywood (FOH) - 50380 1.15 0.00 45.27 28.45 Tanger Factory Outlet (SKT) 29.9 2375946 43.32 -0.15 % ( ENDING ) INDEX 14.85 9.01 Freds (FRED) 20.8 1477963 12.32 0.27 56.44 36.36 Target (TGT) 16.9 34028643 55.67 2.54 APRIL 9 196.75 27.50 French Connection * (FCCN:L) - 184613 42.00 -6.00 42.38 18.05 Taubman (TCO) - 2692522 42.57 2.49 25.02 14.28 Gap (GPS) 15.6 42013568 24.85 1.22 6.35 2.70 Tefron (TFRFF) - 18690 3.77 -0.23 Gainers Change COMPOSITE 32.55 17.51 Genesco (GCO) 24.5 910724 32.00 0.66 49.66 22.96 Tiffany & Co. (TIF) 23.4 6999248 49.79 1.54 Glimcher 30.47 997.98 28.78 5.49 G-III Apparel (GIII) 15.4 848962 28.02 0.57 22.04 12.06 Timberland (TBL) 21.5 973207 22.13 0.62 K-Swiss 28.65 27.94 9.08 Gildan Activewear (GIL) 28.3 1675727 27.51 0.31 45.34 26.30 TJX Cos. (TJX) 15.8 27667994 44.83 2.12 Hot Topic 24.31 6.20 1.78 Glimcher (GRT) - 9948025 6.68 1.56 64.48 25.23 Tod’s * (TOD:MI) 20.1 248108 55.90 0.10 Zale 23.99 28.33 19.32 G&K (GKSR) - 200194 26.83 0.20 31.18 12.38 True Religion (TRLG) 15.3 1762206 29.49 -0.45 48.50 21.00 Guess (GES) 17.8 6759661 47.00 -0.20 33.31 17.60 Under Armour (UA) 34.4 2626205 32.28 1.72 Movado 21.04 55.27 25.08 Gymboree (GYMB) 15.5 4926396 53.57 1.19 4.10 0.82 Unifi (UFI) - 514113 3.87 0.26 5.45 1.75 Hampshire (HAMP) - 10800 4.85 0.65 32.41 18.25 Unilever (UL) - 5236016 30.18 -0.02 Decliners Change 29.55 11.04 Hanesbrands (HBI) 54.1 2522951 29.53 1.32 39.29 15.90 Urban Outfitters (URBN) 29.9 15738683 38.56 0.72 French Connection * -12.50 503.00 239.50 Hennes & Mauritz * (HMB:ST) 23.3 13206992 493.30 16.20 82.87 53.27 VF Corp. (VFC) 19.9 3668233 83.66 2.64 Tefron -5.75 131.89 59.42 Hermès * (RMS:PA) 36.5 220980 99.82 -1.68 20.90 11.05 Volcom (VLCM) 23.2 1292326 20.91 1.42 J.C. Penney -4.28 31.79 5.36 HSN (HSNI) 24.5 1752601 30.39 0.49 56.27 47.35 Wal-Mart (WMT) 15.0 56618054 55.07 -0.42 Burberry * -3.79 13.87 5.25 Hot Topic (HOTT) 29.0 12730368 8.13 1.59 49.43 26.18 Warnaco (WRC) 23.4 2000604 47.94 -0.65 10.49 24.47 14.85 IAC Interactive (IACI) - 6715832 22.96 0.44 23.18 12.36 Weingarten (WRI) 18.7 6267216 23.53 1.66 American Eagle Outfitters -3.74 18.30 9.84 Iconix (ICON) 15.1 2813277 16.68 1.18 5.05 2.77 Wet Seal (WTSLA) 5.4 5114829 4.89 0.14 * Editor’s note: European stocks are quoted in the currency 53.90 23.29 Inditex * (ITX:MC) 24.9 9647445 49.47 -0.23 28.22 20.82 Weyco (WEYS) 21.2 37230 23.31 -0.24 of their principal exchanges. Shares on the London Stock 16.00 5.88 Inter Parfums (IPAR) 20.6 254302 15.23 0.12 30.29 0.04 Wolverine (WWW) 24.2 1103734 30.40 1.14 Exchange are quoted in pence, Richemont and The Swatch 1.96 0.00 IT Holding * (ITH:MI) - 0 0.18 0.00 8.51 1.80 Zale (ZLC) - 20605087 3.36 0.65 Group are quoted in Swiss francs and Hennes & Mauritz is quot- 47.67 14.70 J. Crew (JCG) 24.5 5670028 46.59 0.35 22.53 7.27 Zumiez (ZUMZ) 68.0 2043593 20.25 -0.44 ed in Swedish kronor. All other European stocks are in euros. WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 12, 2010 11 WWD.COM

FASHION SCOOPS for some time. Partouche declined to comment on the status of FRENCH DRESSING: Tommy Hilfiger, which was CRYSTAL VILLAGE: Carrie, Samantha, Charlotte his employees until French administrators make decisions on sold last month to Phillips-Van Heusen, is very and Miranda are getting a little extra sparkle. the company’s future. “I will know more in a week,” he said. close to signing a deal to open a massive Paris Swarovski has partnered with “Sex and the City flagship at 65 Avenue des Champs-Elysées, 2” on jewelry and accessories for the film, which TALENT SHOE: In the past, shoe company Melissa collaborated with according to sources. The site, a three-story space will be released on May 27. Carrie’s closet is the likes of Jean Paul Gaultier, Thierry Mugler, Vivienne Westwood, of more than 10,000 square feet, is occupied bedecked with a crystal chandelier, the characters Patrick Cox, Karim Rashid and Zaha Hadid. Future partnerships, by the bar-restaurant-store Culture Bière. It sits wear crystal-studded minaudières and Kim Cattrall however, could well be with American talent. The Brazilian firm between chain restaurant Léon de Bruxelles and and Miley Cyrus, who makes a cameo, stand in just became a member of the Council of Fashion Designers of the Nike store, on the stretch that runs between front of a Swarovski-logoed step and repeat that at America’s Business Service Network. As part of the partnership, metro stops Franklin D. Roosevelt and George an event that takes place in the movie. In addition the company, known for its eco-footwear, plans to work with the V. Although Hilfiger officials are mum about the to brand placement, 800 Swarovski boutiques CFDA and develop opportunities for its designers. “Melissa has French flagship, it was learned it is slated for will decorate their windows in the style of the mostly collaborated with international designers and artists,” an October opening. The store will feature all of “Sex and the City 2” characters. “Swarovski is said CFDA executive director Steven Kolb. “They have been really Hilfiger’s women’s, men’s and children’s lines. the perfect fit for the fabulous foursome and amazing, but we think adding an American voice with CFDA now Tommy Hilfiger intends to keep his store on Rue represents everything the movie evokes: fashion, involved will push Melissa to new creative heights.” de Saint-Honoré, which opened in fall 2006. glamour, femininity and a strong sense of personal style,” said Nadja Swarovski, vice president of BEHIND THE WHEEL: Fiat scion Lapo Elkann is passing through COME TOGETHER: Mario Boselli, president of the international communications at Swarovski. Tokyo to launch his lifestyle brand Italia Independent’s latest Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, Italy’s product extension: a limited edition Alfa Romeo Brera featuring fashion chamber, is keeping his promise. HOPE FOR FALL: French denim maker April77 may a matte charcoal gray titanium finish and a carbon dash and Reacting to one of the most controversial be down, but it’s not completely out, according steering wheel. Elkann, who developed the car with legendary fashion weeks ever, essentially truncated to Kim Cattrall and Miley to founder Brice Partouche. On March 29, the design firm Italdesign Giugiaro, said he already sold 15 models four days in February, Boselli had vowed things Cyrus don Swarovski in company entered “redressement judiciaire,” of the “stylish, groovy, glamorous and sexy” set of wheels would change in September. So last week, he “Sex and the City 2.” a French legal status similar to Chapter 11 before presenting it to the press. The car retails for nearly and leading designers met to discuss the dates bankruptcy, but Partouche is confident April77 $68,000 in Japan. He was also in town to launch the Diesel- of the upcoming edition slated for Sept. 22 to will emerge from it and start shipping product branded Fiat 500 Cabriolet, meet with Italia Independent’s 28. Top fashion houses now will show sprinkled throughout the again in the fall. “The brand is alive and safe. We are going to retailers and seek out other potential projects. “I’m not doing a week, making the event less stressful. “I’m pleased that my call come back for production. We will have a proper offer for fall,” 100-meter run, but I’m doing a marathon,” said a shirtless and to responsibility was well received and I don’t think I was the he explained. “We had some internal issues that led to financial tattooed Elkann, relaxing in his hotel room before descending only one hoping it would be,” said Giorgio Armani. “The time problems, which prevented us to the Alfa launch party Thursday had come to seriously reconsider the calendar issue around from shipping spring goods. We at the Conrad Tokyo. Elkann sees which a whole industrial system rotates. It also shows that we missed a season, but we are not several parallels between Japan Italians are perfectly capable to assert ourselves to enhance out of business.” Partouche said and Italy. “[Japan] has great what the world acknowledges to be a rich and inimitable the company plans to restructure, heritage and a great past, but Lapo creative heritage.” move to a smaller office and needs to build a better present,” Elkann is Prada Group chief executive officer Patrizio Bertelli echoed a downsize its workforce to cut costs. he said, adding he considers the launching similar sentiment. “The Milan Fashion Week is fundamental for our He said creditors owed money will country the best entry to Asian a limited businesses, and it’s indispensable that it continues to be the driving be paid at some point in the future. markets. “Korea and China might edition force it has always been,” said Bertelli. “We have made a significant According to sources who work with be numbers, but here they have a Alfa Romeo step forward that signals an important sense of belonging we had April77, many, if not all, employees sophistication for taste and trend Brera. been afraid of losing because of recent polemics.” have been absent from its offices and materials.”

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COMMERCIAL REAL ESTATE Perlina Sales executive Handbags Recruiting senior account div of LaTique executive to join New York Handbags & Accessories sweater/knit top / woven HELP WANTED suits company. Showrooms & Lofts Looking for experienced Strong presentation, sales BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS individuals Great ’New’ Office Space Avail analysis and major depart- ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Min 3yrs exp a must ment store connection a must . Designers Pls email resume to Merchandisers Sales Executives [email protected] Send resumes to [email protected] Sales Agent Wanted (212)564-2914 Established Canadian importer/manufacturer of Gloves, Mitts, and Headwear is seeking an ASSISTANT TO DESIGNER agent to expand their customer base Eveningwear firm seeks experienced, within the US. Carrying a vast line of organized person. Must be able to pre- mens and ladies fashion, work and pare tech sketches and packages. cold weather products the individual QLS Email resumes: [email protected] will earn commissions. Warehousing & Distribution Services If interested fax informa- in Edison NJ. Total solutions for stor- DESIGNER: Men’s tion to 1-204-582-2992. ing, order processing, EDI, fulfillment, Sterling Jewelry Co seeks Experienced Pick and Pack and carton shipping.15 Designer for Men’s Accessories Line. years experience in Apparel Industry Must have Men’s Jewelry portfolio; Call QLS: (848) 250 9949 Sterling Exp a Plus. Email resume to Sales Reps Wanted [email protected] Established 30 yr Fashion Jewelry Mfr is launching our 1st major brands in 3 Production & categories: Trendy, Urban, and Social. Looking for a few Reps w/ established Sweater Tech Designer chain/dept store accounts. Get onboard Busy mid-town apparel importer has 2 early and enjoy the success! openings: 1) Experienced Production [email protected] person who is strong at managing private labels accounts; 2) Sweater Tech Designer with knowledge of sketching, specing and creating tech packs. Great co. benefits. Fax resume including salary required to 212-471-0330 or Email to [email protected] FAIRCHILD CLASSIFIED IS NOW SELF SERVICE! To place a print ad, go to www.fairchildclassified.com For online-only recruitment ads, go to wwdcareers.com 12 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 12, 2010 WWD.COM

Hilary Rhoda Michelle Buswell in Ann Taylor, in La Perla. Selita Ebanks in Akris and Tiiu Spring Awakening Kuik in Zac Posen. FORGET THE SPRING EQUINOX. The true marker of the changing seasons, at least measured by Manhattan social time, is the Friends of New Yorkers for Children’s annual New Year’s in April: A Fool’s Fete. This year’s incarnation, sponsored by Akris and held Thursday night, drew cabin fever-stricken partygoers to the Mandarin Oriental’s Ballroom. And judging from their prompt arrival times and bold dress choices, it seemed many in the crowd had been experiencing black-tie withdrawal. Julie Macklowe, Melissa George, event chair Marisa Brown (who was celebrating her birthday), Fabiola Beracasa, Emmy Rossum, Hilary Rhoda, Brian Reyes, Georgina Chapman, Lauren duPont, Jennifer Creel and Karolina Kurkova caught up during a jam-packed cocktail hour while Tinsley Mortimer wandered around sans camera crew (apparently some “high society” affairs are still sacred). In one corner, Zac Posen used his date Tiiu Kuik’s SUV-size ballgown to give Mamie Gummer a lesson in textiles. “Look at the print,” he enthused, pulling at her dress. “And it even has pockets.” Malin Akerman, in town for the Gen Art Film Festival premiere of her movie

S “Happythankyoumoreplease,” was also Mamie Gummer in getting a crash course — in the New York Calvin Klein Collection. charity circuit. “I don’t go to many black ties in LA. This is so classy — it feels like a wedding,” she remarked, surveying the ballroom’s long, glowing tables. “I almost wish I had worn a gown, but this will be much better for dancing later,” she added of her short, black sheath. It proved to be the right strategy. After a dinner of caprese salad and steak, everyone crammed themselves on to the dance ﬂoor, elbowing each other for Karolina more space. Kurkova “Who wants a staid party?” said one guest before she headed out to the Boom Boom Room to continue the MODY WHALEN; WESTWOOD GOWN BY RICHARD LEA-HAIR/NEWSTEAM.CO.UK WHALEN; WESTWOOD GOWN BY MODY revelry. “What I love about New Yorkers for Children is that everyone gets wasted.”

Meanwhile, Mortimer’sttt ex-husband, Topper Mortimer, celebrated his sister Minnie Mortimer Gaghan’s latest collection with Scoop NYC during a seated dinner at The Standard Grill. The designer, who splits her time between New York and Los Angeles, was joined by husband Stephen Gaghan, co- hostess Miranda Kerr and Kerr’s boyfriend Orlando Bloom, a surﬁng buddy of Gaghan’s. Minnie said she doesn’t have to look far for inspiration when it comes to her designs. “I know this sounds really self involved and narcissistic but I design for myself,” she said. “I go in my closet and, if there’s something I want that I don’t have, I make it.” It works for Kerr. “They’re comfortable and wearable,” Miranda Kerr and Minnie Lauren duPont Malin Akerman in she said of Minnie’s dresses. Mortimer Gaghan, both in in Thakoon. Calvin Klein Collection. After dessert, dinner guests convened with the black-tie Mortimer's designs.

clad NYFC crew upstairs at the Boom Boom Room. KRISTEN SO BY PARTY STEVE EICHNER; MORTIMER PHOTOS BY NYFC PARTY

KENSINGTON PALACE HAS BEEN GIVEN A FAIRY TALE-WORTHY FACELIFT for a new exhibit, “The Enchanted Palace,” which spotlights works by British designers including Vivienne Westwood, Boudicca, Bruce Oldfield and Norman Hartnell. THE PRINCESS DIARIES Open now, the show combines art, fashion, performance and sound, and is based on the lives of princesses including Mary, Anne, Caroline, Charlotte, Victoria, Margaret, and Diana, all of whom lived within the estate from 1689 until today. “We have found the stories incredibly inspiring,” says Bill Mitchell, producer of Wildworks, the British theatre company responsible for the presentation. “Like the rebellious princess who was so universally loved that, when she died in childbirth, London ran out of black mourning fabric.” Each of the 13 rooms within the State Apartments has a gown or artwork on display, accompanied by actors retelling some of the old tales. The dimly lit bedroom of the former Princess Victoria re-creates the day in 1837 when she awoke to learn she was Queen of England. That story is told by a performer dressed as a servant who sits atop a giant stepladder facing the four-poster bed piled high with pastel mattresses. In the opposite corner, hung high from the ceiling, is William Tempest’s conceptual trompe l’oeil dress, made of origami birds in the form of a mythical sea creature. In the Council Chamber, a white lace Bruce Oldfield gown worn by Princess Diana is displayed in a forest of birch trees. And in the Privy Chamber, Stephen Jones hats are configured in an installation inspired by British philosophers and scientists. “When I was at high school, physics was my favorite subject,” Jones says. “I was fascinated by the bust of Sir Isaac Newton in the Enlightenment room, so I put him in the apple hat that I made for Marc Jacobs’ spring 2008 collection and the display started from there.” “The Enchanted Palace,” open until 2012, is intended to be a tourist attraction — and distraction — while a 12 million pound, or $18.3 million at current exchange, restoration of the property takes place. A conservator adjusts a Vivienne Westwood “To be exploring these stories in the rooms where they took place is gown exhibited in “The Enchanted Palace.” thrilling,” says Mitchell. “It’s such rich material for art and theater.” — Louise Bartlett