16 www.italoamericano.org L'Italo-Americano THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2016 ALL AROUND TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES

Recco: New Recipe for success after WWII

A picturesque view of in the — Photo by Pavlo Baliukh

MARIELLA RADAELLI Tucked into a thyme-scented the town while their husbands Rustica. “Yet the first real that for , medallions of hillside, the sea town of the were at sea, Recco’s name origi - Recco focaccia made its appear - that date back to Roman Golfo Paradiso borders the nates from the Romans who ance in 1189 at the Abbey of times. The corzetti are given an ith its modern archi - slow-paced fishing village of called the Borgo “Recina”. San Fruttuoso Capodimonte,” embossed decoration using a tecture, Recco seems and is only a two-hour When I was a child I used to notes Bernini. During a ritual special wooden tool. “The Wout of place on the drive from Milan. While walk with my mother from for the departure of the Third embossing helps personalize the picturesque Italian Riviera. Yet Camogli, shortened from Case Recco to Camogli every morn - Crusade, its leader Guglielmo corzetti with the name of the it is remarkable in its own right delle Mogli, got his name from ing during our August vacation. Embriaco distributed two sheets client but it also helps the pasta as a paradise for food. the women who watched over To me Camogli meant buying of dough without yeast filled to hold the sauce, a mix of mar - fish directly from the fishermen, with fresh formaggetta to the joram, pine nuts and cheeses,” while Recco meant fantastic crusaders to ready them for the says Vittorio. recipes. Both were summer perilous trip. Recco is a perfect base to retreats for the Milanese whose In the 19th century, street visit the Golfo Paradiso’s cul - families have returned for gener - food vendors served focaccia on tural blockbusters San Fruttuoso ations for their annual dose of the occasion of the celebration and Portofino. sunshine, focaccia and trofie. of the dead. “At the beginning “When we wake up in the My father picked Recco because of last century my grandmother morning, we see Mount it was “the capital of Ligurian Marinin served it to clients on a Portofino rising from the land - cuisine”. And still it is. daily basis,” says Vittorio scape in front of us. This out - In Recco I missed the multi - Bisso, who owns the historic standing view fills our hearts,” story buildings of Camogli hotel and restaurant Da O says Mayor Dario Capurro. painted in pinks, yellows and Vittorio together with his twin Recco’s enchantment lies in terra-cottas. But there is a reason brother Giovanni. Founded in the undulating hills. After the for such local architectural mod - 1865 by their great-grandfather church of San Rocco you head esty. Recco was one of Italy’s as a locanda con cambio di cav - uphill to Avegno where the most war-damaged cities in alli, Da O Vittorio (www. landscape changes dramatically. WWII. Bombed 27 times, Recco daovittorio.it) is a symbol of The Commune consists of nine lost many lives. Never before Ligurian identity. Vittorio and hamlets, included the panoramic the town had lost so much and Giovanni’s father Luigi Bisso Megli. As a child, after the yet never before there were so was a restaurateur of choice for beach, I walked home to Megli many new beginnings. noble Genovese families whose through stone steep stairs. I Recco showed strength and children ate O Da Vittorio watched the sun go down, the pride as it rose as a phoenix focaccia as their afternoon sky draining all the color from a from the ashes. Out of the infer - snacks. After the war the Bisso red and white building and turn - no a more modern settlement family attracted artists and ing the fronting sea to silver. took shape that concentrated its statesmen who gloried in Da O On September 7 and 8, identity on the culture of food. Vittorio’s well-presented, Recco will host La Sagra del Focaccia col formaggio is its exquisite menu. Actor Aldo Fuoco, a traditional feast in divine specialty --a rich gooey Fabrizi loved to escape from the honor of Nostra Signora del cheese encased in millimeter- rigid diet rules imposed by his Soccorso. Fireworks will reflect thin sheets of dough. In 2014 the dieticians in Uscio to live a on the infinite sea. EU gave it the quality certifica - happy night at Da O The town is also renowned tion mark of Protected Vittorio.“Da O Vittorio ti saluto for water polo with the Pro Geographical Indication to safe - dieta, magno e mi riconcilio con Recco club located on the guard the product name from la vita,” he used to say. beachfront since 1913. “We misuse and imitation. It is still an institution for its contributed the most Olympic Lucio Bernini, president of freshly caught seafood, the medals in Rio, “ says the mayor. the Consorzio Focaccia di elaborate cappon magro, the “The Setterosa, that won a sil - Recco, traces its origins to the crucial pansoti alle noci and ver medal has two Reccheline in Romans. Around 200 B.C., Cato focaccia. The owners with their its squad. While the Settebello referenced a similar style of sons and nephews fiercely won the bronze powered by focaccia in his treatise De Re guard ancient recipes such as seven Recchelini”.