Photographs of

Oman by Stephen Scourfield

to accompany his book Beautiful Witness

‘These photographs aim to give the reader a taste of the places and a glimpse of some of the people in Beautiful Witness. I was a child who wanted to be a writer, and who later trained also as a photographer, and then went out and discovered a most remarkable planet.’ Stephen Scourfield

This work is copyright. Apart from any fair dealing for the purpose of private study, research, criticism or review, as permitted under the Copyright Act 1968, no part may be reproduced by any process without written permission. The moral right of the author has been asserted. Copyright © Stephen Scourfield 2013

Part of the city of , sitting in a rock bowl in the late light. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Looking towards Al Waha Hotel. Shangri-La Barr Al Jissah Resort and Spa. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Looking towards Al Husn Hotel. Shangri-La Barr Al Jissah Resort and Spa. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Grand Mosque, Muscat. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

The corniche along the waterfront in Muscat. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Fish souk in Bay, on the Old Muscat waterfront. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

The new road around the Old Muscat waterfront. Muttrah Bay. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Grounds of Al Bustan Palace Intercontinental hotel Muscat. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

The corniche in Muscat has a wide walkway and date palms and is popular in the still, warn evenings. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Precinct of Al Aalam Palace, the official residence of Sultan Qaboos. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Marina near Al Bustan. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

One of ’s excellent roads. This is east of Sur. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Driving south from Muscat. Road. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Fin, a fishing town between Qurayyat and Sur. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

A man scurries for shade, under an umbrella in Fin. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Qurayyat, between Muscat and Sur. It has a fort and small shops. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

The fort in Qurayyat. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Sur, which was an important dhow building centre. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Sur shimmers in the heat. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Dhows at Sur. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Mountain ranges near Ras Al Jinz. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Camel in a big flood plain near a village near Sur. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

A dhow and traditional fishing camp near Sur. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

A minaret in Sur. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Overlooking from its fort. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

The inland town of Nizwa, set in date palms. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

The Nizwa goat market, two hours south-west, inland from Muscat. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Nizwa’s Friday goat market draws Omanis in traditional dress. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Buying and selling at Nizwa’s goat market. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Nizwa in the evening. It is warm and still and sweetly scented. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Dates at the souk in Nizwa. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Rifles and the local khanjar knife are in many shops at the craft souk at Nizwa. I ask if the rifles work. “Of course they work,” I am told. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Mohammad at Al-Remal Al-Dhapia store at the souk in Nizwa.Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Ibrahim at Al-Remal Al-Dhapia store at the souk in Nizwa. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

The drive north from Al Hamra to Jabal Sham mountain. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Village near . Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Al Hamra, a town north-west of Nizwa. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Jabal Mahill range, between Samail and Nizwa. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Rooms at Jabal Shams Resort. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

The vehicle I used turned out to be a Landcruiser. I turned out to be glad as I approached the Hajar Mountains. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Driving into the Hajar Mountains. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Crossing the Hajar Mountains between Al Hamra, heading for Hut and Wadi Bani Awf (west of Al Awabi). Picture: Stephen Scourfield

The drive up Jabal Sham mountain. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

The landscape around Jabal Shams. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

A bird cleaning goats at Jabal Shams Resort. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Look closely for the truck, which gives a sense of perspective. Crossing the Hajar Mountains between Al Hamra, heading for Hut and Wadi Bani Awf (west of Al Awabi). Picture: Stephen Scourfield

There are walled terraces for irrigated trees and crops in the Hajar Mountains between Al Hamra and Wadi Bani Awf. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

A window near Wadi Bani Awf. Picture: Stephen Scourfield

Crossing the Hajar Mountains west of Al Awabi. Picture: Stephen Scourfield