THE FIX THE FIX

SHOPPING and deli counter, it has been a feature viola aubergines, ripe Californian avocados, of LA’s Fairfax District since 1948. It’s peaches and melons, and tiny chillies. a perennial favourite with celebrities Don’t miss the long strands of fresh farm past and present, from Mel Brooks to the sausages. And don’t leave without sampling THE 50 GREATEST Red Hot Chili Peppers to Barack Obama, the newly baked cookies. FG cookbookla.com who blew through in 2014 for a little kaffeeklatsch. The decor hews wonderfully THE COURTYARD DAIRY, Yorkshire FOOD STORES true to the space’s midcentury heritage: A stone barn in the Yorkshire Dales is vinyl banquettes, Sputnik lights and neon the perfect setting for this renowned We’ve been around the world to find the best produce signage abound. MS cantersdeli.com cheese shop, café and museum. Its cool on the planet, from New York delis and Indian spice atmosphere is ideal for ageing cheeses, CASA DEL PARMIGIANO, Venice and there is a vast selection, from soft and emporiums to German sausage shops The food writer Skye McAlpine, who smelly to a cheese wedding cake. Run by grew up in Venice, describes this tiny Andy and Kathy Swinscoe, The Courtyard establishment in the heart of the Rialto Dairy is the winner of numerous awards, market as “one of [her] favourite shops including the Best New Cheese Retailer, 2ND AVENUE DELI, New York BAY CITIES ITALIAN DELI in the world”. The selection of cheeses is Cheesemonger of the Year and runner- Abe Lebewohl founded the 2nd Avenue & BAKERY, Santa Monica exquisite – think wheels of saffron-scented up for Yorkshire Food Destination Deli in 1954 on a corner of the East Village. An Italian granny, a skate punk and a pecorino studded with black peppercorns, of the Year. FG thecourtyarddairy.co.uk In 1996 this beloved neighbourhood figure gallery owner walk into a deli. Not the smoked ricotta and snowy-white fresh GENE’S SAUSAGE SHOP Above: Culina, was murdered (the crime remains unsolved), opener of a joke, but an average day at Bay mascarpone layered with mild soft Singapore. Below: CULINA, Singapore & DELICATESSEN, Chicago El Colmado, Bristol but his family kept the certified Kosher Cities, the Santa Monica landmark that’s gorgonzola. Beyond the cheeses, there’s all Owned by hospitality maven Christina Ong Gene’s is a cured-meat lover’s Mecca. deli going; today there are two locations the home of super- such as kinds of prosciutto, salami and cured meat, (she of COMO Hotels renown), Culina is Founded 49 years ago by brothers John and (Midtown and the Upper East Side) run by The Godmother (spicy salami, prosciutto, fresh pasta (especially good where you come when you absolutely must Gene Luszcz (and currently run by Gene’s Abe’s nephews, Josh and Jeremy Lebewohl. mortadella, capicola and provolone) and are the truffle Plin), dried have violet-fig confiture from Alain Milliat daughter Yolanda and son Derek), Gene’s Regulars make a beeline for gigantic a meatball sub that will spoil you for any pasta and a colourful array in Lyon, or free-range eggs from New has three European smokehouses and sandwiches stacked with house-made other, all served on pillowy Italian bread of jarred goodies. The Zealand, or anchovies and octopus from makes 40 varieties of sausage, from freshly and , , (they keep bins of it at the checkout queues of Venetians a family-owned purveyor on the Bay of butchered pork and beef, in natural casings the famous and . counters, so you can grab extra on your way waiting to be served stretch Biscay in northern Spain, or tender organic with no preservatives. There are also It’s also one of the only places to still enjoy out). You will also find Italian delicacies, across the square. FG Angus from Australia’s Margaret River. 12 types of fresh bratwurst that change p’tcha (jellied calves’ feet), but interested in particular cheeses, not readily available casadelparmigiano.ve.it Not so much about the local, then, but utter seasonally, eight hams, 25 home-made parties should call in advance to confirm elsewhere in LA. MARIA SHOLLENBARGER nirvana for jet-setting expat gastronomes. sliced deli meats and, it is said, the best availability. RIMA SUQI 2ndavedeli.com baycitiesitaliandeli.com CLARKE’S, There’s a sleek, absurdly comprehensive chicken soup in Chicago. And that’s just Notting Hill, wine cellar – arguably the city’s strongest on the ground floor – the first and second AZIZ DELICATESSE, Beirut BEACHWOOD BAKERY, Devon Above: Formaggio east of Lake Como and is celebrated for Sally Clarke’s inspiration on fine French producers – and an even are stocked with goods imported primarily Like much of this city, Aziz Delicatesse Californian expat Julia Cotts started as Kitchen in Cambridge, bitto, an aged Alpine cheese made from came from her friend and sleeker bistro. MS culina.com.sg from Europe, and there’s a rooftop Massachusetts. is a survivor. Founded in 1955 and still a market-stallholder in the village of Below: 2nd Avenue cow’s (sometimes goat’s) milk. There are mentor Alice Waters of garden offering grilled sausages, beers and a family business, it has withstood wars, Chagford in Devon. With help of funding Deli, New York cured meats, handmade pasta, polenta, Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California, whose EL COLMADO, Bristol wines by the glass. RS genessausage.com financial crises and last year’s explosion at from the local community she opened dolcis, and Valtellin wines and grappas to farm-to-table philosophy she introduced This joyful Spanish deli and tapas bar is the port, remaining a destination for those this jewel of a bakery, named after her tempt you too. EMIKO DAVIES ciapponi.com to London. Her Notting Hill restaurant has bursting with brilliant produce. Here you GOLDHAHN & SAMPSON, Berlin looking to stock their pantries with Italian neighbourhood in LA, just before the first just reopened after lockdown, but it will will find everything you would want to This north-east Berlin neighbourhood store aged balsamic vinegars, French mustards, lockdown. Try her renowned “Village BUTTERFIELD MARKET, New York continue to offer a home-delivery service SALLY create the most delicious Spanish feast. heaves with pastas, pickles, preserves, CLARKE Spanish and the more obscure Loaf”, an organic sourdough. In business on the Upper East Side for over a of the restaurant menu on a Friday and AT HER Croquettes that you can take home and fry tinned fish and bottled sauces (Hellmann’s Asian sauces and speciality Other favourites include spiced century, this market and deli has expanded Saturday, and it’s business as usual again at NOTTING to a crisp sit alongside plates of cured mayonnaise and Colman’s are HILL SHOP – perhaps leaving with a home-made vegetable , pastries, cakes, during Covid-19 to an airy new spot on her two bustling west London Sally Clarke meats, Manchego, broad beans, chorizo, both also welcome). There are Caribbean pastry or cake in the process. Aziz also buns, focaccias and Madison Avenue with even more room for shops. Her chicken, leek and mushroom padrón peppers and salted almonds. And spices, cheese made from Jersey cow milk, has one of the largest wine cellars in freshly made soups. Her delicious cases full of delicious prepared foods: pies are legendary and prepared from for breakfast there is the mix and Arctic seasalt, bottles of sake and habanero the country, stocking 100,000 bottles of coffee hails from Crediton coffee jumbo lump-crab cakes, hearty chicken pot freshly roasted chickens every morning. chocolate milk. FG elcolmadobristol.co.uk chilli paste from Belize. It’s serious about wine and bubbly. RS azizdelicatesse.com roasters, a local company. Her aim pie, traditional Jewish “appetising” and There are also freshly baked breads, arabica coffee too and, complete with is to use as much local produce sides galore. Loyal customers head here for viennoiserie – think spring rhubarb or FARMSHOP, Santa Monica a Chesterfield armchair, has a well-

BARNEY GREENGRASS, New York as possible and the long queues the iced French cruller doughnuts (they sell blood-orange Danish with pistachios The historic Brentwood Country Mart is curated cookbook shop. There’s a second The faithful have flocked to Barney waiting patiently outside her door out by noon), fruit tarts and soufflés, as – as well as a fabulous selection of home to Farmshop, a California-inspired store across the city in Charlottenburg. Greengrass’s Upper West Side storefront speak volumes. FIONA GOLFAR well as freshly baked pizzas. Organic Neal’s Yard cheeses and Clarke’s signature market, bakery and restaurant that TIM AULD goldhahnundsampson.de CANTER’S, for decades, drawn by its smoked and beachwoodbakery.com pressed juices, a frozen-yoghurt station and GENE’S oatmeal biscuits. FG sallyclarke.com highlights the best of artisanal, edible SAUSAGE cured fishes and meats in an old-school a coffee bar worthy of Italy round this out. SHOP & everything. Cheese lovers will delight in GOZDE SARKUTERI, Istanbul interior with etched mirrors. Established BEPPE E I SUOI CHRISTINA OHLY EVANS butterfieldnyc.com DELICATESSEN, COOKBOOK, Los Angeles Central Coast Creamery’s Goat Gouda, In the middle of the Kadikoy market on CHICAGO in 1908, the business is now run by FORMAGGI, Rome This little sun-drenched shop in Echo Park as well as cheddar-style Barely Buzzed the Asian side of Istanbul, this is a must- ITALO IN VAUXHALL, Barney’s grandson Gary, who suggests According to food writer Rachel Roddy, this CALL YOUR MOTHER, Washington doesn’t try to do a million things, but on rubbed with lavender and espresso beans, visit for cheese, charcuterie, cured meats LONDON Below: The first-timers try his favourite : cosy store in the Ghetto district is the city’s Set in a hot-pink former flower shop in any given day you may find perfect Courtyard while prepared foods including vegetable such as pastirma (dried cured beef) and a mix of smoked whitefish and salmon with foremost deli. The owner, Beppe Giovale, Washington’s Georgetown neighbourhood, tomatoes, local honey, salad leaves from Dairy, Yorkshire quiches, hearty soups and gluten-free home-made mezes, as well as around PHOTOGRAPHS: ANDREW CROWLEY. CROWLEY. ANDREW PHOTOGRAPHS: PIAZZA ZABILSKI.GREG MICHAEL JAMES & KARLA MURRAY. REDUX/EYEVINE. LUZ WILLIAM ILLUSTRATIONS: vegetable and white onion is from a family that have been making CHICKEN Call Your Mother is all about the a nearby farm – and regulars claim that financiers have earned Farmshop 40 types of olive. Standout specialities POT PIE AT on a toasted . RS barneygreengrass.com formaggi between their base in Val di Susa BUTTERFIELD sandwich. Bestsellers include The it sells the best chicken pot pie in LA. a dedicated fan base. This being LA, are freshly prepared and charred MARKET, in Piedmont and summer pasture in Col du NEW YORK Gleneagle – a za’atar-dusted bagel with On top of simple scrubbed wooden tables shelves are lined with organic oat milk, eggplant salad. FG gozdesarkuteri.com.tr BOTTEGA FRATELLI Petit Mont-Cenis in the French Alps since lashings of candied salmon cream cheese sit little vases stuffed with fresh herbs, and Saffron Latte Wellness Powder and CIAPPONI IN MORBEGNO, ITALY the 1600s. From their sheep, goats and and shallots – and City: a big ceramic bowls are filled with creamy Turmeric Spice Blend Mylk by Golden INDIGO DELICATESSEN, Mumbai rare-breed cows, they produce dozens of pastrami, egg, cheese and spicy-honey Glow – and you’ll feel better by just visiting. For Mumbaikars craving thin-crust pizzas spectacular cheeses including primosale, that can command COE farmshopca.com/santa-monica and a frothy cappuccino to eat in, Indigo is ricotta and il barà, and you can also find an hour-long wait. Sandwiches on rye and the spot. But it’s just as much a destination top quality cured meats, wine and pasta. , traditional black-and-white cookies FORMAGGIO KITCHEN, for stocking up the larder, with a great AJESH PATALAY beppeeisuoiformaggi.it and babka muffins round out this carb- Cambridge, Massachusetts choice of meats, cheese, wines, coffees, lovers’ dream. COE callyourmotherdeli.com The much-loved shop that keeps teas, pastas, sauces, tropical fruit pies and BOTTEGA FRATELLI CIAPPONI, Cantabrigians in imported cheese made-to-order cookies. LB indigodeli.com Morbegno, Italy CANTER’S, Los Angeles – some aged in the on-site cellar – Entering Ciapponi is like walking onto a Baz Legion are the Angelenos who’ve rocked up hams, condiments and breads recently ITALO, Vauxhall, London Luhrmann set. It has been there since 1883 here at 2am after a show on the Sunset expanded its range. Go for staples such Located in a leafy square, this cornershop and the original 19th-century signage is all Strip to monster some corned beef or as country pâté, celeriac rémoulade, deli was opened in 2008 by Luigi di Lieto present and correct; the shelves groan with pastrami on rye – “Open 24 hours” is just house-made boudin blanc, meats from (scion of the family who ran the Di cheeses, all aged in the cellars beneath the one of Canter’s many lovable attributes. nearby farms, and fresh, wild-caught fish. Lieto bakery in Stockwell for 20 years), shop. Morbegno lies in the Valtellina Valley A sit-down restaurant with a vast takeaway LEAH BHABHA formaggiokitchen.com Charlie Boxer and Frank Boxer (son and

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or tissue-thin coppa slices most days; the as an eel and fish smokehouse back in standards – and arancini, salumi the late 1920, remains rightfully famous and mixed platters, a few pre-made pastas for the more than 70 types of fresh, – are all top. But the desserts are next smoked and live fish it sells, from classic level, and among them, the di ricotta rollmops to smoked eel and swordfish. deserves an honorific.MS 2 Hopetoun Street, GUY CHAZAN, TA rogacki.de Paddington 2021 (+612-9358 2142) ROSCIOLI SALUMERIA CON PADSTOW KITCHEN GARDEN, Cornwall CUCINA, Rome When you arrive at Trerethern Farm, with Brothers Alessandro and Pierluigi run one its extraordinary views over the Camel of the tightest shows in town, with various Valley, you may well think you are on a film other Rosciolis and Rosciolis-in-law set. Navigate your way past some very manning the till, pouring the spumante, characterful ducks, and on occasion the even making the (fantastic, heavy on the odd pig, and you enter a charming wooden ’70s classics) playlists. The charcuterie shed filled with fresh produce: cavolo nero, and cheese selection – whether Italian or fresh salads, peppery radishes, sausages… non-Italian – is basically unrivalled. There’s The produce is either grown or reared a sharp, modern wine edit, courtesy of on the farm, or from other local growers. sommelier Maurizio Paparello (he’s the one Take cash, because to pay you use an with the nearly waist-length dreadlocks); honesty box. FG padstowkitchengarden.co.uk the packaged foods, from cantabrico anchovies and gourmet tunas to verdure PANZER’S DELI, sott’olio (vegetables marinated in olive oil) St John’s Wood, to classic Roman pasta kits (carbonara, London amatriciana, cacio e pepe), are top of A stalwart of seven the class. MS shop.roscioli.com decades, London’s original is RUSS & DAUGHTERS, New York these days a destination At this Jewish deli for all manner of fine you’ll find every social demographic in the Above: Russ Kitten Grayson, fruit and vegetables from and rare global foods. city waving their ticket and shouting over & Daughters, both Heckfield Home Farm and Fern New York. Right: Beyond what is one another to get what they want. For Supermarket of Verrow, delicious unhomogenised milk, indisputably the city’s everything from pickles to pastrami-cured Dreams, London cream, butter, yoghurt and cheese, as well PRODUCE best bagel (take it from salmon, chicken soup to chopped liver, this as jams, cordials, pickles, breads and FROM PANZER’S DELI, this Los Angeles-raised is the place to go. A client from London pastries, all made in the kitchens at her LONDON former New Yorker), there recently wanted to send her daughter, who restaurant Spring. There will also be are full charcuterie and lives in NYC, some chicken soup. She a selection of ready meals but it won’t be cheese counters, natural and kosher wines, spent 30 minutes discussing all the different “restaurant-style food, rather the kind you a sigh-worthy array of exotic fruit and veg, options with the Russ & Daughters staffer really want to eat at home, delicious and guilty-pleasure American classics (keep on the other end of a phone: noodles or comforting”. FG springrestaurant-shop.co.uk your scones; give me Bisquick), corn balls, or everything

tortillas actually from Mexico and a slew of together? When they finished, she said, PECK, SUPERMARKET OF DREAMS, own-brand chutneys, marmalades, granolas “Thank you for letting me take up so MILAN Holland Park, London and pestos. And excellent coffee. And sushi. much of your time.” The woman replied, One of the great successes of lockdown, And these insanely delicious cookies. “I’m a mother, it’s what we’re here for!” this west London hotspot was the Just go already. MS panzers.co.uk FG russanddaughterscafe.com brainchild of dynamic Melbourne-born Chris D’Sylva, who also owns the PECK, Milan Notting Hill Fish & Meat shop. “It’s like Known simply as the “temple of Italian going to Pacha to buy your vegetables,” gastronomy”, this Milanese institution said one client, observing the queues of needs little introduction: meat, seafood, people dressed like clubbers who hang cheese, chocolate, pastries, pasta, out around the door. The high-end offer gelato, wine… FG peck.it includes sushi prepared by one of the

12 sushi chefs, and collaborations on VALVONA PUTNAM MARKET, Saratoga Springs takeaway dishes from Coombeshead, Roka, & CROLLA, EDINBURGH Visitors head to this charming upstate Padella and Ottolenghi. A stylish state-of- New York town for its historic racecourse, the-art refurb will open in August. FG mineral springs and performing arts supermarketofdreams.com amphitheatre. Along Broadway is Putnam Market, where tourists and locals alike UPTON SMOKERY, Oxfordshire come for lunch and a spot of dessert. Hurst Barn Farm in is a destination Order a sandwich, like the weekly grilled SAHADI’S, Brooklyn beloved of the set, with cheese special or the Catharine (roast This Atlantic Avenue trader has been every Chris Mills’s expertly smoked game, free-range turkey, Cheddar, bacon, avocado New Yorker’s go-to for all things rare, pheasant, goose, partridge, pigeon breast spread, sprouts and Russian dressing). beautiful and tasty from the Near East since and smoked sliced venison the stuff of Then meander to the grocery’s cheese 1948. Founded by a Lebanese family (and local legend. FG uptonsmokery.co.uk section for a portion of the esoteric currently run by a woman member), it’s Hudson Valley Truffle Falls, a cow’s-milk for you if fossicking among bins of grains, VALVONA & CROLLA, Edinburgh variety flecked with black truffle and ground and whole spices, nuts and dried Scotland’s oldest delicatessen was founded rubbed with white-truffle oil and garam fruits is your idea of heaven. The olive bar in 1934 by two Italian immigrant families masala. Don’t leave without some rose- stocks more than 30 varieties, and is and is now run by the grandson of the lychee macarons. LB putnammarket.com matched by an equally prodigious olive oil original co-proprietor, Alfona Crolla. It’s selection; the bakery turns out fresh-baked an Aladdin’s cave of gourmet produce with ROGACKI, Berlin Afghan and Syrian breads, honeyed sweets salami and Parma hams dangling from the Run by Dietmar Rogacki, grandson of and a killer . MS sahadis.com ceiling and shelves packed to the rafters the original owners, this Berlin institution with Italian and Scottish delicacies, is a sprawling emporium selling cheese, SPRING TO GO, Notting Hill, London including the family speciality, a spicy game, poultry, sausage, bread, salad… Skye Gyngell’s new shop on Ledbury Fonteluma sausage made using a centuries-

PHOTOGRAPHS: CAMERA PRESS/LAIF. JAMES & KARLA MURRAY. GIOVANNI PANAROTTO. MILO BROWN. ILLUSTRATIONS: WILLIAM LUZ WILLIAM ILLUSTRATIONS: BROWN. MILO PANAROTTO. GIOVANNI KARLA & JAMES MURRAY. CAMERA PRESS/LAIF. PHOTOGRAPHS: It’s all delicious, but Rogacki, which started Road sells seasonal biodynamic flowers by old recipe. AP valvonacrolla.co.uk

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