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Winter 2005 Textile Society of America Newsletter 17:1 — Winter 2005 Textile Society of America

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This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Textile Society of America at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Textile Society of America Newsletters by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. VOLUME 17 • NUMBER 1 • W INTER. 2005

Symposium 2004 Wrap-Up

CONTENTS PPROPRIATION, "who" and "what" of fiber art, ly taking place in the aerospace, A ACCULTURATION, AND but also conjecturing on "why" military, and medical fields, if not Symposium 2004 Wrap-Up TRANSFORMATION was the Bay Area became such fertile yet in the fashion and furnishing 4 President's Letter the theme of the Textile Society soil for creative textile art. textile fields. This was one of the of America symposium held in Even more interesting, how­ most fascinating papers of the S TSA News, Financial Report sunny Oakland, CA, October 6- ever, were Larsen's observations conference; Brown's finds were 6 TSA Study Tours 8, 2004. Organized by co-chairs on the state of America's con­ inspirational, especially in light of 7 TSA Long-Range Plan Inez Brooks-Myers and Susan temporary textile industry and its the traditional textile processes TSA Member News Tselos, the conference was lack of open dialog with today's behind some of these high-tech 9 In Memoriam attended by almost 300 mem­ textile makers and scholars. textile products. bers, who were treated to a Hopefully, Larsen stayed for In addition to contemporary 10 Book Reviews, Collections News thoughtfully planned program Susan Brown's presentation on fiber art, papers addressing South consisting of 82 papers present­ Friday entitled "Extreme Textiles: American and Asian textile arts I I Opportunities, Call For Papers ed in plenary and concurrent Designing for High Perfonnance," were well-represented at this sessions. which showcased some of the symposium, yielding focused 12 Calendar - Exhibitions While the overall theme of exciting textile advances current- panels on several days. There 14 Calendar - Lectures, the symposium was broad to p.2 Seminars, Tours, enough to include subjects from Conferences & Symposia the vast field of textile arts, the Bay Area's own fiber art move­ ment was a particular focus of the conference. A variety of papers delved into the legacy of the innovators, artists, and schools associated with the Bay Area fiber movement. Keynote speak­ THE TEXTILE SOCIETY OF AMERICA, er Jack Lenor Larsen gave a brief INC. provides an international history of this significant move­ forum for the exchange and ment in his Thursday morning dissemination of information address, explaining not only the about textiles worldwide. from artistic. cultural. Jack Lenor Larsen.Ann Rowe, economic. historic. and Yoshiko Wada view textiles political. social. and at Kathleen Taylor-The Lotus technical perspectives. Collection. one of the stops on a pre-conference tour organized byYoshiko. from p. I One final observation: off, but she carne anyway and TSA BOARD OF DIRECTORS were also several papers concen­ despite the large number of found it quite exciting. ([s there Officers trating on Islamic textiles. Carol schools in the area, junior profes­ still some work to do here on PreSident, Executive Committee Chair Bier's talk on 6th-10th century sionals and graduate students communication between artists Pamela Parmal seemed in short supply at this and scholars?) I know that I, too, TEL 617/369-3703 FAX 617/262-6549 Sassanian roundel patterns and [email protected] coin designs, and their connec­ conference. The future member­ have a tendency to chose first tion to contemporary mathemat­ ship of TSA depends on the the sessions that pertain to my Vice-President, Chair of Publications & Electronic Media ical thought, was particularly recruitment and development of own area of work (academiC>, Carol Bier intriguing. Papers addressing these young professionals; there­ but usually the artists' panels are TEL 202/667-0441 ext. 19 Western European textile tradi­ fore, more effort should be the ones that best recharge my [email protected] tions, however, remained, as at directed toward outreach among soul. Treasurer. Finance Committee Chair other recent TSA conferences, these groups. I spent part of my scheduled Patricia Cox Crews - Lauren Whitley time in the marketplace helping TEL 4021472-6342 largely missing from this sympo­ [email protected] sium, which seems strange in Assistant Curator vend Berg books. This proved an light of the wealth of collections Museum of Fine Arts, Boston opportunity to talk to lots of Recording Secretary Madelyn Shaw in American museums. Hope­ people about their textile interests. TEL 40 I /454-6515 fully, more scholars in this area TSA SympOSium 2004: The conversations at TSA [email protected] will present their research at symposia begin early and bear Director of Internal Relations future conferences, which could One Scholar's fruit as fast as the sessions tum Lisa Kriner over. During the opening recep­ TEL 859/985-3547 FAX 859/985-3541 result in even more varied and Networking Experience [email protected] interesting programs. tion, I shared my design educa­ THE TSA SYMPOSI UM'S ECLEC- tion-cum-research project!grant Director of External Relations In between sessions of Laura Strand 1 TIC MIX OF PERSPECTIVES on papers on Thursday and Friday, proposal idea with an apprecia­ TEL 618/692-4170 FAX 618/650-3096 textiles and its global coverage an enticing textile marketplace tive academic colleague. It was [email protected] compel me to attend every two was held in nearby rooms. energizing to get a face-to-face Past President years. This year I presented Luxurious woven shawls from thumbs-up and an offer of assis­ Dr. Mary M. Dusenbury another portion of my doctoral TEL/FAX 620/254-7656 India and Southeast Asia were tance with my plan to work with research into design develop­ [email protected] the standouts, and many TSA Indian textile artisans from some­ ment in Indian gold-embroidered members (myself included!> one who has already 'been Directors At-Large velvets made for export to West Ashley Callahan indulged in some serious binge there' in a related capacity. African cultural markets. The TEL 706/542-0463 FAX 706/542-0440 shopping. Rounding out the Several new acquaintances [email protected] early timing of my session symposium were excellent pre­ helped to renew my interest in Mary Ann Fitzgerald allowed people interested in my and post-conference tours to sig­ developing a less expensive tex­ TEL 608/262- 1162 research to know and contact nificant local exhibitions and pri­ tile tour to India. mafitzg [email protected] me during the conference. A vate collections-viewing real Joanne Dolan Ingersoll TEL 2121217-5774 FAX 2121217-5978 objects provided a welcome bal­ nationally-known quilt artist told me my panel session was not [email protected] ance to the informative slide her first choice, as the language Margo Mensing talks. TEL 518/580-5063 FAX 518/587-8896 of the description had put her [email protected] Vita Plume TEL 919/513-4466 FAX 919/515-7330 Below left: Deborah Valoma introduces Symposium Keynote speaker [email protected] Julia Parker. Right: IncomingTSA President Pam Parmal speaks at the Symposium banquet. Lower right: Gyongy Laky talks about her Dr. Bobbie Sumberg sculpture at her exhibition opening. TEL 505/476-1223 FAX 505/476-1300 [email protected] Task Representatives TSA Website Ashley Callahan. [email protected] TSA Ustserve Laura Strand. [email protected] TSA Newsletter Editor Karen Searle TEL/FAX 651/642-9897 [email protected] TSA Symposium 200..6 Co-Chairs Fran Dorsey TEL 902/868-2882 FAX 902/425-2420 [email protected] Nataley Nagy TEL 416/599-5321 ext. 2236 FAX 416/599-291 I [email protected]

2 TSANEVVSLETTER I ran another of my ideas crafted textile import business. design curriculum into a set of 6 Lillian Elliott Award past someone whom I knew of They invited me to teach ma­ workshops for semi-literate craft Presented at TSA by reputation before I heard her chine quilting in India as part of artisans in India. Taking an applied speak at this conference. She dis­ their development work. I will approach to those lessons will SympOSium couraged my idea of developing definitely follow up on this help me develop hands-on exer­ IHE LILLIAN ELLIOTT AWARD an exhibition of fiber art and opportunity. cises for sensitizing artisans to 1 honors an emerging fiber wearables made from Indian Renewal of my acquaintance cross-cultural differences in color artist whose work reflects a will­ imported cloth by fiber artists with another Indian development conception and perception. ingness to take creative risks. and designers who have taught worker I met at the 2000 TSA This year I also nurtured my While this award is independent in India. It's back to the drawing symposium is now beginning to interest in the global distribution of TSA, it is presented in alter­ board for that one-better to bear fruit. She had inspired me of hooked-needle embroidery, a nate years at the TSA Symposium. work the kinks out early than to seek opportunities to teach topic I encountered during my Elana Herzog of New York City too late. working artisans in India. I began doctoral research. The focus of was honored with the Sixth I later connected with several this last year by teaching the use my dissertation did not allow me Lillian Elliott Award at the sym­ development workers from India, of sewing machines and rotary to follow the technique through posium banquet in Oakland on some new to me. The latter sold cutting tools to Indian artisans Central Asia, Europe, and Oct. 9, 2004. shibori scarves that they had who had been producing their America. In a European panel I Elena's work is constructed learned to make by reading traditional patchwork quilts for heard a very inspired paper on using utilitarian textiles, such as Yoshiko Wada's book-quite a market entirely by hand. Now the Irish lace industry, some of bedspreads, drapes, carpets and testimonial to the author! I pur­ we are discussing adapting a which I suspect consists in tam­ dish towels, which are attached chased a portion of their stock series of color theory workshops. bour work over a net ground. I to the wall with thousands of for my emerging Indian hand- I developed for a first-year college can't wait until the Proceedings staples. Parts of the fabric and are published so I can explore the staples are then removed, the paper references. and sometimes re-applied, leav­ I continued to expand my ing a residue of shredded fabric knowledge of world textiles, and petforated wall sutface in attending sessions on Southeast some areas, and densely-stapled and East Asia. I found the mixed and built-up areas elsewhere. session on Mended Textiles Her work makes use of both the exciting for the way it combined universality of textile production papers from different regions of and the cultural specificity of the globe, as well as the perspec­ style and motif Herzog's materi­ tives of artist, home needle als reflect the tastes of moments worker, and scholars. in the history of design and tech­ Announcement of the nology. Their scale refers to the Toronto site and the new pre­ monolithic rectangles of abstract ferred format for paper panels expressionist painting as well as for 2006 has stirred up an idea to home and body. The work is for a panel with a coordinating fresh, strong and exciting. textile exhibit. I've got a year and The selection process for the a half to find a gallery and recruit LEA award involves three anony­ textile artists and panel mem­ mous nominators, each of whom bers! Oh, (love this stimulation­ invites three artists to apply. The the intoxicating stitch, fiber, weft, LEA Committee, which includes and color of it all. - Hazel Lutz Pat Hickman, Barbara Goldberg, and Susan Stemlieb, reviews Textile Artist and Scholar applications and chooses an The Symposium offered many awardee. The award honors the networking opportunities. Upper lives and work of the late textile left:Ann Lane Hedlund and Laurie artists/scholars Lillian Elliott and Webster chat at the Banquet Joanne Segal Brandford, and is reception. Center left: Outgoing Treasurer Mary Littrell visits with the only award honoring con­ Susan Torntore. Upper right: Kate temporary fiber artists. The LEA FitzGibbon, Ratna Krishna Kumar Committee relies on donations and Dodi Fromson. Lower left: to continue to make the award External Relations Director Laura available. Donations may be sent Strand talks with Indian visitors Victoria Vijayakumar and Preethi to Barbara Goldberg, 74 Sargent Pratap, members of the Women Beechwood, Brookline, MA Weave organization. Photos by 02445. Lisa Aronson. WINTER 2005 3 a long-range strategic plan for result is a comprehensive view TSA that would help to guide us of a subject that has had little through the next ten years. After exposure. Clearly written text the long-range planning survey and numerous photographs give was sent to the membership in the book a broad appeal. 2003, the Board added an extra Published in the US by Buppha day to each of its 2004 meetings Press, PO Box 10335, Chicago, to discuss future goals, and estab­ IL and distributed by Art Media lish a long-range plan. Resources, Inc. The plan includes five priori­ Wild by Design: Two Hundred T IS WITH GREAT PRIDE that I ties: Membership Expansion and Winners of the R. L. Yf?ars of Innovation and Artistry in Itake on the presidency of TSA. Involvemen~ Professional Develop­ American Quilts, by Janet I have always had great respect Shep Award for Books men~ Outreach, Advancement of Catherine Berlo and Patricia Cox for the organization-its profes­ the Field, and Financial Development. Published in 2003 Crews, considers the well pub­ sionalism, the dedication of its An introduction to the long­ Traditional Textiles of Cambodia: lished field of American quilts board members, the quality of its range plan was written by Cultural Threads and Material from rarely addressed perspec­ members, and the goals set early Madelyn Shaw based on board Heritage tive. This exhibition catalogue in its existence. TSA began in discussions and follows on page 7. Gillian Green begins with an essay by Janet 1987 when a group of museum A chart that includes the priori­ Buppha Press Berlo. who uses her academic ISBN 1-932476-06-7 curators gathered at the MFA, ties, goals, implementation strate­ skills as both a social and art his­ Boston, to discuss the organization gies, and timeline is available on torian to critically examine tradi­ Wild by Design: Two Hundred Years of a society focused on the study the TSA website. tional attitudes about quilters of textiles; in order to represent of Innovation and Artistry in One of the overriding ques­ American Quilts and quilt aesthetics. Discussions as broad a range of interests as tions that I kept coming back to Janet Catherine Berlo and Patricia about individual quilts continue possible membership was open during our discussions was: how Cox Crews a concern with aesthetics as well to anyone who paid dues. can TSA, which is now on firmer University ofYVashington Press as traditional interests related to The first decade of the orga­ financial footing, further support ISBN 0-295-98309-4 technique, fabric and dyes. nization's existence was dedicat­ its membership and its goals of Published by University of ed to setting up the Board, promoting the study and appreci­ N INETEEN BOOKS WERE nomi­ Washington Press. ensuring the quality of TSA's ation of textiles? nated for the 2003 award. - R. L. Shep Award Committee: biennial symposia, the incorpora­ It is an exciting time for TSA, In making the decision, the com­ Lotus Stack (Chair), Beverly Gordon, tion of the society, and acquiring and I am looking forward to the mittee considered two criteria: and Desiree Koslin. non-profit status. Over the last next two years. I'd like to I. The book brings the high­ few years the organization has welcome our new board mem­ est standard of scholarship to a expanded its services to mem­ topic of significance to the field bers-Vice President/President Ele~ Introducing New TSA bers-we now have a website, Carol Bier; Treasurer, Pat Crews; of ethnic textiles. Board Members listserv, expanded programming External Relations Director, Laura 2. The book presents the that includes workshops and Strand; Internal Relations Director, material in a manner that is Officers study tours, and the beginning of Lisa Kriner; Directors-at-Large, accessible and engaging to the Vice President Carol Bier is an award program with the R.L. Joanne Dolan Ingersoll, Mary public as well as textile scholars. Research Associate at the Textile Shep Book Award. Ann Fitzgerald, and Vita Plume; For the first time in the award's Museum, Washington, DC, TSA's expansion of member and Symposium 2006 Co-chairs, history the committee felt that where she previously held posi­ services, while maintaining high Nataley Nagy and Frances two books were equally strong tions as Curator of Eastern professional standards has, I believe, Dorsey. I look forward to work­ and deserved the recognition Hemisphere Collections and resulted in our increased mem­ ing with them and returning accorded by the R. L. Shep Editor of The Textile Museum bership, which is at an all-time board members on implement­ Award as making important con­ Journal. Carol also teaches part­ high of 730. The symposia and ing our long-range plan and fur­ tributions to the textile field. time at the Maryland Institute study tours enjoy great success thering TSA's mission. Traditional Textiles of Cambodia College of Art and for the and we hope to expand the work­ If anyone is interested in - Cultural Threads and Material Master of Liberal Arts program shop program in the near future. helping support this effort or has Heritage, by Gillian Green, pre­ at Johns Hopkins University. She TSA is also in a healthy any comments, please feel free sents the culmination of inten­ received her MA from the financial state. Two years ago, to contact the board at sive field research in Cambodia. Institute of Fine Arts, New York when the Board began to assess [email protected]. One of our goals is The author supplies extensive University. Travel in Turkey in TSA's financial position, it became to increase membership information about the social con­ the 1960s sparked her interest in clear that we needed to assess involvement in the organization, text and ritual use of textiles as textiles, followed by twelve years not only the finances, but the and we would be pleased to well as details relating to every of training as an archaeologist in organization as a whole. Under have your help. aspect of fiber preparation and the Middle East. Her current Mary Dusenbury's astute leader­ weaving. Documentation covers research focuses on patterns and ship, the Board decided to create -Pam Parmal not only historical periods, but pattern formation in Islamic art, TSA President the 20th century as well. The including textiles, and brings her 4 TSANEYVSLETTER in contact with mathematicians, received her BS in Textile Tech­ Textile Society America Financial Report chemists, crystallographers, and nology and Design from North of physicists with overlapping inter­ Carolina State University and January I-December 31, 2003 ests in pattern formation. worked as textile designer and Revenue Publications include The Persian stylist of upholstery fabric before Membership dues (10% increase projected for 2004) 31,945 Velvets at Rosenborg, editor and earning her MFA in Fibers from Publication sales 1,155 contributing author for Woven the University of Kansas. Lisa's Donations 90 from the Sou~ Spun from the Heart: fiber art is included in numerous Other Label sales 71 Textile Arts of Safavid and Qajar juried, invitational, and solo exhi­ Directory advertisements 1,193 and numerous articles, book Iran, bitions. She regularly leads stu­ Study tours 138,360 chapters, and reviews. dents on art study tours to Workshops 4,345 places such as Washington, DC, Total Revenue $177,159 Treasurer Patricia Crews is the Chicago, New York, and Thailand. Projected Expenses Willa Cather Professor of Textiles Her work was recently included and Director of the International Administration in The Fiberarts Design Book 'if 7. Boyer Management Services 6,946 Quilt Study Center at the She servied as a TSA Director-at­ (Does not include $2,958 included elsewhere for board, website, University of Nebraska-Lincoln. Large from 2002-2004. directory ads, publications, symposium, study tours, workshops) Her PhD in Textile Science and Total paid to BMS in 2003 for TSA services $9,904) Conservation is from Kansas Directors-at-Large Accountant (2002 tax preparation) 450 State University. Patricia's current Credit card charges 387 research on quilts integrates her Mary Ann Fitzgerald is Curator Other (Supplies, postage, storage, insurance, printing) 2,101 expertise in textile science, con­ of the Helen Louise Allen Textile Officers servation, and history. Publications Collection at the University of President 1,000 Board expenses 1,036 include Wild by Design: Two Wisconsin-Madison, a collection with a focus on ethnographic Publications Hundred Yea~ of Innovation and Newsletters 7,851 textiles. Mary Ann received her Artistry in American Quilts (with J. Directory 2,731 Berlo), Midwestern Amish Crib MA in Anthropology and Bibliography 4,220 Quilts: the Sara Miller Collection Museum Studies from the Uni­ Postage for back copies of publications 53 (with J. Smucker and L. Welters), versity of Washington. Recently-. Proceedings 6,307 and numerous book chapters curated exhibitions and accom­ Misc. pub expenses (refund, credit card, labels) 86 and journal articles. panying catalogs include Pixels Website and Textiles: Digital Close-ups: Design and maintenance 4,977 External Relations Director Objects from the Helen Louise Allen Other Shep Award (Award, postage) 1,594 (Focus on Outreach) Laura Textile Collection; Nothing to Sneeze 2004 Symposium 1,657 Strand is Associate Professor of At: Handkerchiefs from the Helen Study tours (some study tour expenses included in 2004) 127,286 Art and the Area Director of Louise Allen Textile Collection; and Workshops 4,069 Textile Art and Design at Southern TANA BANA: The Woven Soul of Total Expenses $172,751 Illinois University, Edwardsville. Pakistan. Net Revenue + $4,408 After working as an independent TSA Assets Summary-December 31,2003 artist producing exhibition and Joanne Dolan Ingersoll is commission artworks as well as a Associate Curator of the Textile Checking Account-M& T Bank $41,210.59 Petty cash 187.68 line of blankets, Laura received Collection at The Museum at FIT Investrnents* 96,314.45 in New York. She is also an adjunct her MFA in Fibers from the Total Assets $137,712.72 University of Kansas. Laura's instructor in the graduate program fiber work is included in numer­ in History of Decorative Arts at * TSA investments are in two accounts. The accounts grew by 19.4% and 35.8% during 2003. ous solo, invitational, and juried Cooper Hewitt, National Design Museum and at FIT. Her MA is exhibitions and has been reviewed Vita Plume is Assistant Professor and Design and at Concordia from S.u.N.Y. Fashion Institute of in Fiberarts and Surface Design of Art and Design at North University in Montreal. Her fiber Technology in Museum Studies, Journal. She initiated and has Carolina State University, Raleigh. work combines images, symbols, History of Costume and Textiles. managed the TSA Listserve since At NCSU she also participates in patterns, and text from her fami­ 2000. In this capacity she served Prior to her museum career, the Anni Albers Schola~ Program ly history and Latvian cultural Joanne's work in the interiors as a TSA Board Director from that unites the creative aspects background with the latest in industry offered a solid ground­ 2000-2004. of design taught at the College computerized design systems and ing in the historical and cultural of Design with the technology of computer-assisted dobby and Internal Relations Director significance of textiles. Recent textiles taught at the College of jacquard looms, to address issues (Focus on Membership, Awards, exhibition brochures include The Textiles. Vita's MFA is from Nova of displacement, cultural duality, Mentoring, Volunteers) Lisa Big, The Bold, and The Beautiful: Scotia College of Art and Design, erasure, and loss. As a weaver, Kriner is an Assistant Professor Hand Screen Printing for Fashion Halifax. Prior to NCSU, Vita led Vita has lectured and exhibited in the Art Department at Berea and Interio~ and A Womans Hand: textile fiber programs at the widely and participated in sever­ College in Berea, Kentucky. She Designing Textiles in America. New Brunswick College of Craft al artist residencies in Canada.

WINTER 2005 5 TSA Symposium 2006 emerging artists, textile-based Between planned events, practitioners, and collectors. Walter will lead us off the beaten October 1 1-14, 2006 Having diversity playa key role track to show us some of his Toronto, Canada in the theme of the conference favorite places where tourists sel­ will allow for a broad range of dom visit, and help us learn to IHE TEXTILE MUSEUM OF topics to be addressed from dif­ explore on our own. A number 1 CANADA will host the 2006 ferent perspectives. Our commit­ of free evenings will allow us to Textile Society of America's ment to guaranteeing the schol­ explore Istanbul's many varied Biennial Symposium at Harbour­ arly standards set out by TSA in and hospitable restaurants within front Centre, a remarkable cul­ recent symposia remains res­ close walking distance from the tural centre on Toronto's beauti­ olute, and will be reflected in TSA Spring Study Tour hotel, and there will be the ful waterfront. programming and speaker choice. to Turkey option of attending some of the As Toronto is one of the fabulous concerts of the 2005 most diverse cities in the world, May 30-June 12, 2005 International Istanbul Music it is only fitting that the 2004 TSA Symposium 2006 (Study tour begins in Istanbul the Festival. TSA Symposium will reflect this Proceedings evening of May 30 and ends diversity. Drawing from the large there early morning, Jun. 12,) community of academic and IHE TSA PUBLICATIONS Turkey Tour Supplement artist participants, the Toronto 1 COMMITTEE will publish the Registration Deadline: Added conference promises to be filled 2004 TSA Symposium Proceedings February 28 in CD-ROM format. The compi­ with exciting speakers and innov­ Price: $2575 from Istanbul June 12-15, 2005. lation of papers is being edited ative programming. With our N OPTIONAL FOUR-DAY add­ by Publications Chair Carol Bier. The Turkey Study Tour is limited focus on reaching out to the A on to TSA's Turkey Study An editorial committee is work­ to 16-18 participants. Registration international community, we Tour has been arranged for June ing with Carol to provide a con­ information can be found on the hope to attract a new and broad­ 12-15 led by a professional tour sistent format for the papers sub­ TSA website, www.textilesociety.org er audience. guide. Particpants will visit izmir, mitted. The CD ROM will be or by contacting the TSA office. Co-chairs Frances Dorsey, see historic sites and meet the artist (Nova Scotia College of Art distributed to current TSA mem­ OIN TEXTILE SCHOLAR and TSA weavers around Birgi, see and Design) and Nataley Nagy, bers by July I, 2005. Following Jmember Walter Denny, needlework and visit with arti­ Executive Director of the Textile its publication, the Publications expert on all things Turkish, for a sans at the markets at Tire Museum of Canada will ensure Committee will evaluate the use textile study tour to Turkey. For before retuming to Istanbul. The the 2006 Symposium will bal­ of the CD-ROM format for two weeks, Walter will share his program will include all meals, ance the interests of the academ­ future Proceedings. extensive knowledge of Istanbul's airport transfers, overland trans­ ic community, artists and major textile collections, finest portation, hotel accommodations in Odemis, museum fees, and an PROMOTETSA museums, and superb architec­ tural monuments. In Istanbul and extra Istanbul hotel night.. TSA's beautiful membership brochures are available for you to share in Anatolia we will meet textile Cost: $585 per person for the news ofTSA and its membership benefits. lodging and meals (8-IO people). Plea~e ~ke some TSA brochures with you to textile-related meetings designers, curators, rug weavers, Request additional information to distribute to colleagues and friends. Request a packet ofTSA and textile collectors and explore from the TSA office, or on the brochures from Kim in the TSA office. present-day markets for textiles of all kinds. On a side trip, we TSA website, www.textilesociety.org. TSA OFFICE will visit the old Ottoman capital TSA DUES SCHEDULE of Bursa, once a major center of For membership updates Individual North America east-west silk trade, and the inquiries, or for TSA Tour $55, (2 yr: $1 10) DOBAG rug-weaving cooperative information: near Ayvacik on Turkey's Aegean Kim Righi, Membership Manager Foreign $65, (2 yr: $130) shore. The tour will include a Textile Society of America Student North America number of surprises added to P.O. Box 70 Earleville, MD 21919-0070 $30, Foreign $40 the printed trip itinerary. Walter Denny is a scholar, 410/275-2329 Institution North America TEL: curator, and art history professor FAX: 410/275-8936 $70, Foreign $80 at the University of Massachusetts EMAIL [email protected] Supporting North America who has spent many years living $35, Foreign $145 and working in Turkey. Renew your membership by (Includes an $80 tax-deductible [email protected] donation) Visit http://www.textilesociety.org for membership forms, tour Corporate (US & Foreign) information and latest news. $1000 Rug weaving at Avyacik, Turkey. Photo: Walter Denny.

6 TSA NEWSLETTER TSA Long Range Planning Document 2004 fundraising and should act in these matters according to the ethical Planning Statement: In order to into account the Mission State­ consist of a Biennial Symposium standards of their institutions. develop a coherent set of organi­ ment, current TSA activities, areas and published Proceedings, Study zational priorities, goals, and im­ of potential growth, and the need Tours, Workshops, and volunteer A. A Finance Committee is in plementation strategies, the full for human and financial resources opportunities to write articles and place to determine investment Board of Directors of the Textile to plan for the future. Goals, reviews for the Newsletter and strategies for an endowment to Society of America met on Oct. implementation strategies, task Website. help achieve financial stability. 10,2003, and again on Feb. 13, assignments, and a timeline have B. TSA will work to further B. TSA will develop a financial 2004. This document is the result been identified within each priori­ develop workshop and study tour planning document and related of those meetings and was drafted ty. offerings, and create new programs fundraising strategies in order to with reference to a long-range­ to appeal to its diverse constituents. implement new programming. planning questionnaire submitted I. Membership Expansion and (Fundraising may eventually re­ C. TSA will work towards to the membership in the summer Involvement: TSA currently relies quire the addition of a Develop­ expanding its professional devel­ of 2003. It should be construed as on membership dues for most of ment Officer to the Board of opment offerings outside the guidance for the future of TSA, but its budget Membership is derived Directors.>. is subject to revision by future from professionals in the academ­ boundaries of the US and Canada. - Madelyn Shaw ic, museum, gallery, artist/designer, TSA Boards of Directors to reflect D. TSA will work to establish TSA Recording Secretary changes in organizational priorities. and development communities, awards and other programs to and from other parties whose recognize and acknowledge the Planning Assumptions: interests may not be professional. achievements of its members. I) TSA is a professional organi­ According to the survey results, zation. Its constituency is made up membership is largely composed III. Outreach: TSA works to edu­ of those who work with textiles of mid- and late-career profession­ cate the public about textiles as a on a professional basis and those als. Most current members reside field of study and creative output, whose interests are personal. in the U.s. and Canada. Member­ and to encourage members to 2) TSA membership currently ship fluctuates between sympo­ broaden their horizons within the numbers about 700 and fluctuates sium and off-symposium years. field. between symposium years and off A. TSA will work to create a A. TSA will publicize its programs years. TSA needs to encourage larger and more stable member­ and the achievements of its mem­ growth and stability in the mem­ Rockefeller Fellows at Bellagio ship base. This will provide both a bers to a wider audience. Raising bership. broader base from which to draw awareness of the organization During june/july, 2004, TSA 3) Members are attracted to Directors and volunteers to run should have a positive impact on members Blenda Femenias and TSA by the quality of programs the organization and a larger pool membership and create more mul­ Mary Littrell were Rockefeller offered by the organization. TSA is of financial resources with which to tidisciplinary opportunities for pro­ "Fellows" at the Rockefeller committed to excellence in all of provide new services to members. fessional development. Research Center in Bellagio, Italy. its programming. Blenda and Mary each spent a B. TSA will work to encourage B. TSA will encourage its mem­ 4) A high-quality Biennial Sym­ month focusing on their scholarly members from diverse academic, bers to participate in the program­ posium and the subsequent publi­ writing while in residence at the professional, geographic, and cul­ ming of other professional organi­ cation of the Proceedings are the Center's immense grounds and vil­ tural backgrounds and a variety of zations, and establish connections cornerstone of TSA's mission. las overlooking Lake Como. The career levels. A diverse membership with other organizations. 5) TSA's membership includes Bellagio opportunity brings togeth­ strengthens opportunities for the people with varied backgrounds er 12-15 scholars at a time, each exchange of information about tex­ IV. Advancement of the Field: and interests. Diversity is one of of whom is working on a book, the organization's strengths and tiles and for professional networking. TSA recognizes that one of its functions is to advocate for the major body of art work, or musi­ should be maintained. C. TSA will work to involve cal composition. The scholars from field of Textile Studies in all its 6) TSA has a worldwide con­ members more fully in the organi­ many facets. around the world work indepen­ stituency and will address the in­ zation through programs and vol­ dently in private studios during the terests and incorporate the exper­ unteer opportunities. A. TSA will work to increase day and come together in the tise of its intemational membership. awareness of textiles as a field of evenings to share their on-going 7) TSA's programs and publica­ II. Professional Development: TSA study and creative endeavor. work. For TSA members who tions will reflect its mission and recognizes that its members and B. TSA will work to create would like to take part in the potential members come from the needs of its members. opportunities for interdisciplinary Bellagio "experience," information 8) Planned expansion of bene­ many different backgrounds and dialogue. about submitting a proposal can fits, services, and activities can only have varying interests and levels of be found at http://www. C. TSA will recognize excel­ be implemented and sustained if expertise within the textiles field. rockfound.org (type in "Bellagio)." additional revenue sources are TSA offers opportunities to mem­ lence in the field to foster high standards of scholarship. found. bers and potential members to TSA Board member Carol Bier enhance their knowledge, present IV. Finandal Development: TSA is received the joseph V. McMullan Priority Statement: TSA has their work in formal and informal committed to further stabilizing Award for Scholarship and Steward­ identified five priority categories: venues, enlarge their network of the finances of the organization. ship of Islamic Textiles from the Membership Expansion and Involve contacts, and expand their hori­ TSA recognizes that members Near Eastern Art Research Center ment, Professional Development, zons in the field. who work for educational and cul­ in October. Also in October she Organizational Outreach, A. TSA is committed to its cur­ tural organizations may have delivered a plenary address at an Advancement of the Field, and rent program of Professional De­ interdisciplinary conference on conflicts of interest in regard to Financial Development. These take velopment opportunities. These to p.8 WINTER 2005 7 recently at the NOHO Gallery Thomas Murray wrote the cover sponsored by The Australian and AI.R. Gallery in New York. article of the latest Hali (featuring Forum for Textile Arts ITAFTA). [email protected] for the first time a Bolivian weav­ She then spent a quarter as Artist ing on the cover). He reviews a in Residence in the Textiles Work­ Linda Gass will will present a major exhibit of world textile art shop at the Australia National slide lecture on her work for the held at the Columbus Museum of University's Canberra School of Textile Arts Council of the de Young Fine Art, curated by James Art. Karen's art work was ex­ Museum, Jan. 16 at the Palace of Blackmon and featuring pieces hibited .in "Grown Up Rgures," the Legion of Honor in San Fran­ from the following cultures: Amer­ Nov. II-Dec. 31, 2004 at the Fiber cisco. She will teach a 5-day work­ ican qUilts and coverlets; Suzanais; Art Center, Amherst, MA. She will shop entitled "Painting on Silk: Tribal rugs; Bolivian weavings (the have a solo exhibition Feb. 25-Apr. Expressing your Passion" Mar. 6- finest exhibit of that material in 20 2 at Augsburg College, Minneapolis, 12 at Arrowmont in Gatlinburg, years), Navajo; Indonesian, MN. [email protected] TN. For more information, see the Philippine, Cambodian and Lao Arrowmont website at www.arrow­ material from SE Asia; African, Member Publications mont.org. Linda also recently including hats and North African Ruth Barnes recently published appeared in a second episode of material; and even a super-fine Eastern Indonesia in the 20th Simply Quilts entitled "Round Robin" Palestinian dress! Regretfully, no Century: Tracing the Ernst Vatter on Home & Garqen Television catalogue was published. Thomas .. Inner Workings, Jacquard tapes­ Collection on an early 20th­ (HGTV). She was invited to make also gave a paper at the Icac try by Carol LeBaron,56" h x 35" w. Century ethnographic collection a quilt in round-robin style with Down Under held in Sydney this from eastern Indonesia. The col­ from p. 7 Yvonne Porcella and Patricia last September, and mounted an lection is very rich in outstanding "Science, Literature and the Arts Nelson. Check the HGTV web­ exhibition on Indian Trade Cloth textiles, all well documented, and in the Medieval and Early Modem site, www.hgtv.com for air time. and Indonesian textiles. although the text is in German, World," organized by the Center [email protected] [email protected] the publication is relevant to any­ for Medieval and Renaissance one with an interest in the textiles Studies at Binghamton University. Carol LeBaron's art exhibitions Theresa Paschke is curating an this past summer included "Fiber of the region. Orders: Museum Her paper addressed "Number, exhibition titled "Submersed: der Weltkulturen Frankfurt, Shape and the Nature of Space: Arts 2004" at Mills Pond House Contemporary Altered Books" for www.mdw. Franhfurt.de.publihatio­ Geometry and the Spatial Dimen­ Gallery, St James, NY (juried by the upcoming Surface Design nenlindex.php sion in Islamic Art," based upon Patricia Malarcher); 'Transient Association conference in June. [email protected] her studies of patterns in textiles State" traveling invitational exhibi­ [email protected]. tion at Woven Fiber Art House, and carpets. Carol Bier's perspective paper, [email protected] West Chester, PA and York, PA; Joanne Rapp announces the and the Summer Faculty exhibit at acceptance of the archives of her "Metaphors of Poetry and Power: Kashmir Shawls and their Deriva­ Sonya Clark's "Beaded Prayers Appalachian Center for Crafts. galleries The Hand and The Spirit tives" was accepted for publication Project" was exhibited at the Silver This past fall she participated in Craft Callery 0971-1998) and The in Chereh: International Carpet and Cultural Arts Center, Plymouth, the "Artist-In-Residence Exhibition" Joanne Rapp Callery ()985 -1998) Textile Review. Carol published sev­ NH, Nov. IO-Dec. 5, 2004. at Oregon College of Art and by the Smithsonian Institution's eral articles in the past year: [email protected] Craft and 'TACA Biennial exhibi­ Archives for American Art as of tion" at the State Museum, Nash­ February 2004. The galleries were "Spanish and Mamluk Carpets: Margaret Cusack had a stitched ville, TN. Carol taught workshops sold in 1998 and eventually Comparisons of Decoration and and quilted work in ''The Second in 2004 at Peters Valley, NJ and became GaUeryMateria, still located Structure" in Chereh, Issue 36, 2004, Biennial Dimensional Salon" held at Oregon College of Art and at 4222 North Marshall Way in pp. 9-17; "Islamic Art at Doris Dec. 9-Jan. 8 at the Museum of Craft, where she spent a senior Scottsdale, AZ. Duke's Shangri La : Playing with American Illustrators. The artwork­ residency. She currently teaches [email protected] Form and Pattern" (co-authored was commissioned by G2NY for art history at East TN State with David Masunaga) in Bridges: Absolut Vodka and was used on University, and Crafts at Emory Fran Reed attended the artist talk Mathematical Connections in Art; posters in Pennsylvania. Margaret's and Henry College. Carol is cura­ for "Celebrating Nature" at the Music and Science, Conference work was also shown in "Fiber for tor of "Recursions," a digital textile Los Angeles Craft & Folk Art Proceedings 2004, ed. Reza Sarhangi the Future" Dec. 9-Jan. 8 at the exhibition on view at the Museum Museum Oct 9th. Her fish skin and Carlo Sequin, pp. 251-58; AI.R. Gallery, NYC, sponsored by of Design, Atlanta, GA baskets have recently appeared in : "Mathematical Aspects of Oriental Textile Study Group of New York. [email protected] "Fiberarts International 04" at Carpets" in Symmetry: Culture and A virtual catalog of the show is Museum of Art & Design, New Science (2001 [publ. 2003]), vol. accessible on TSCNY.org. Margaret Linda McIntosh gave a presenta­ York; "Outrageous Home" at 12, nos. 1-2, pp. 67-77; and "Indigo" is also creating 28 soft sculpture tion for the Textile Society of Hunterdon Museum of Art, in Encyclopedia Iranica. (www.iranica. fish props for the Broadway Musical Thailand at the Jim Thompson Clinton, NJ; and "Celebrating com). Carol offers seminars and "Spamalot," based on "Monty Center for Textiles and the Arts, Nature" at the LA Craft & Folk workshops for kids of all ages on Python's Holy Grair and directed Bangkok, entitled, "Phuthai Tex­ Art Museum. art and geometry, focusing on pat­ by Mike Nichols. tiles of Savannakhet, Laos," in [email protected] tern. Her website, "Symmetry and [email protected] Dec. 2004. Linda is co-organizing Pattern: The Art of Oriental Car­ a symposium on Southeast Asian TSA Board member Karen Searle pets," hosted by The Math Forum Virginia Davis has had a work, Textiles to be held at the same spent the fall (between newsletter at Drexel University http://mathfo­ "Points and Line Four," accepted venue in August, 2005. deadlines) teaching at week-long rum.org/ geometry/rugs continues by the Art Institute of Chicago for /smcinto@sfu·ca Fibre Forums in Nelson, New to receive awards for education. its collection. She has exhibited Zealand and in Geelong, Australia, 8 TSA NEWSLETTER [email protected] 1929, when, at age 18, Dorothy twist of a yarn produces, how to results from a repeating, mathe­ Fashion: A Canadian Perspective, a Kate Macdonald was hired as a examine and identify woven struc­ matically-precise interaction be­ new book edited by Alexandra Second Assistant Draftsman by the tures, how to compare examples tween warp and weft elements. Palmer, was recently released by Royal Ontario Museum of from other cultures or time peri­ "Looms" she explained, "allow us the University of Toronto Press: Archaeology to make line-drawing ods and how to remember them. to perform these interactions more http://www.bergpublishers.comluk illustrations for the museum's She methodically showed me how easily." [email protected] accession records. Ten years later to diagram weave structures and She then inserted the ruler she successfully petitioned the how to draft a cutting layout from under, then over alternate warp Karen Searle contributed an essay museum's director to appoint her an historic garment. thread on the book. By turning to the exhibition catalog Sound the first curator of textiles. For the Dorothy's teaching method the ruler on its edge she demon­ Suits by Nick Cave, a summer, 2004 next 63 years Dorothy made tex­ always involved a hands-on strated the shed-half the automat­ exhibition at Holter Museum of tile history, first at the Royal approach. She started with the ed weaving process. Next, she Art, Helena, MT. [email protected] Ontario Museum in Toronto and object. First she would tell you threaded a loop of cotton cord later at the National Gallery of about the task, perhaps show you around the first warp not raised by Northampton's Century of Silk, by Canada and the Museum of an example of what you were the ruler and drew the loop over Marjorie Senechal, has been Civilization in Ottawa. supposed to accomplish, then set the pencil. As she proceeded published by the City of North­ Dorothy took museum work you to work. After she let you across the warp she explained: "I ampton, MA, as part of a series seriously. She taught herself how have a go, she would carefully and am making heddles with the cord celebrating the city's 350th anni­ to answer the questions that work­ generously offer a "few tips" she and attaching it to every other versary. Those who attended the ing in a museum raises because had learned. I am sure there were warp thread and to this pencil." TSA Symposium, Silk Roads Other she felt the public deserved many times she could have done Leaving the ruler (a.k.a. shed stick) Roads in Northampton in 2002 respect and the best efforts of the task better and faster herself flat, she carefully lifted the pencil will recognize many of the arti­ curators. She prepared herself by or just insist I do it the "proper" (a.k.a. heddle rod) and opened the facts, silk-making machinery, and studying spinning and weaving at way, but she never lost the sense counter-shed. Her loom, now fully local sights described in this gener­ the Banff School of the Arts, orga­ of wonder and the joy of discover­ operational, was producing cloth. ously-illustrated book. From the nized and learned from the ing new things, and she tried very This sequence takes a minute 1830s to the 1930s, Northampton ROM's extensive collections, hard throughout her career to and a half, but it leaves everyone was a vital node in silk's world­ mounted exhibitions, and, with help others achieve these same who sees it with a 'eureka' wide web. Under Senechal's direc­ her husband, Harold B. Burnham, insights. moment. I often use "Dorothy's tion, the Northampton Silk Project developed research models for The profound and the practi­ book loom" when teaching. I am spent six years excavating its fasci­ documenting Canadian hand cal found common ground with always amazed at the sense of nating story. Order forms are weaving and regional garment Dorothy. She was a brilliant accomplish-ment when I actually online at http://www. gazettenet. construction. Together they refined teacher, adept at improvising and weave cloth. coml3 50Imerchandise.html4fbooks and expanded the terminologies always expanding the discussion Dorothy relished accomplish­ [email protected] used to describe fabrics and clothes. to include a bigger picture. In ment-those of others as well as Dorothy read voraciously, cor­ 1974, when asked to explain her own. At the time it was pub­ Elayne Zorn notes the publica­ responded widely and talked to "briefly" how a loom works on lished, the review of the exhibition tion by University of Iowa Press of everyone-curators, university pro­ camera for a public television catalogue Cut My Cote in Sdentific her ethnography Weaving a Future: fessors, teachers, artists, students, series called From the Skin Out, she American was the only scholarship Tourism, Cloth, and Culture on an and little children. Because she was came prepared. Sitting on the of a ROM curator to be discussed Andean Island (2004), on tradition­ an artist/draftsman, when contem­ weaver's bench of an 1840s shaft in those pages. She was the first al textile arts and community-con­ plating an artifact it was natural for loom on display in the gallery, textile scholar to receive the Order trolled ecotourism on Taquile her to sketch or diagram it. When Dorothy began: "A loom is a of Canada (diplome d'honneur) and Island, Peru. [email protected] all else failed, she made one her­ frame to hold threads called warp to be awarded an honorary doc­ self In this way she replicated in order under tension ... " She pro­ torate from Trent University. Coptic single-needle knitting, duced a hefty book, 2 balls of Her legacy of beautifully-illus­ learned how to make complex yarn in contrasting colors, a 12- trated books and evocative titles Bronze Age sprang patterns, found inch ruler, a No. 2 pencil, and a serve as standard references for the most economical way to tie up length of cotton cord and pro­ curators, scholars and students. and treadle woven patterns, and ceeded to build a working loom Her interest in all textiles without often fabricated paper dresses to model in her lap while the camera qualification, from all places and see if the cutting diagram for a rolled. all times, shaped a collecting man­ garment "worked." She opened the book's cover, date at the ROM unlike any else­ Her interests were encyclope­ lay the end from one ball of yarn where in the world, that continues dic; her patience Job-like. At the in the gutter, closed it and to enrich those who work there Dorothy Burnham time I entered the Textile Depart­ wrapped the yarn lengthwise ten and those who come to learn (1911-2004) ment in 1970, the curatorial staff or twelve times around the vol­ from the collections. Her generosi­ of Harold, Dorothy, and Betty ume. "I am using the book as ty, enthusiasm, and encourage­ D OROTHY BURNHAM'S DEATH AT (Katharine Brett) was legendary frame to hold this yarn (my warp) ment were relished by all who AGE 92 in Ottawa on and they literally changed my life. in order and under tension ... " came to know her. We were, and October 24, 2004 marks the pass­ In particular, Dorothy helped Next, using her finger to inter­ continue to be, blessed to have ing of the last of the Canadian transform me from an art historian weave the second yarn, she ex­ come this way with Dorothy as a museum pioneers who trans­ into a textile scholar. She taught plained that she was weaving a mentor, colleague and friend. formed the field of international me how to handle cloth and to weft yarn into the warp. She also -John E. Vollmer textile studies. Her career began in feel and see the differences the pointed out that all weaving New York

WINTER 2005 9 detailed catalog of 23 (of about examples of Andean textile her­ 1000 extant> pieces. It provides a itage excavated in the clear, concise introduction to the Department of Ica, only these subject, although the Ashmolean three had been returned to the collection represents an idiosyn­ citizens of the region. By stealing cratic rather than a representative these three textiles, the thieves sample. and the collectors for whom Brooks explains that such they work take advantage of 80 embroidered pictures usually fea­ years of custody, research, con­ tured pastoral scenes, filled with servation and protection of these English Embroideries of the royalty and fashionable people. Ashmolean Renovation beautiful and unique examples Sixteenth and Seventeenth Many illustrated Biblical stories IHE ASHMOLEAN MUSEUM, of the heritage of all Peruvians. Centuries in the Collection the of (although the characters were 1 Oxford, England plans a They also take advantage of the Ashmolean Museum always wore contemporary dress). major redevelopment, and it is professional work of national Mary M. Brooks The idyllic imagery contrasted likely that the Department of and international experts. Published in association with strongly with the reality of the Eastem Art and the Antiquities Museum Director Susana Jonathan Horne Publications time, marked by political, social Department will be closed for at Arce Torres is in charge of a col­ London, 2004, 96 pp. and religious turmoil. Making least two years beginning in lection whose value cannot be (Ashmolean Handbook series) such embroidery was a hallmark 2006. Accessibility to the collec­ measured either in intis or in dol­ ISBN I 85444 192 2 of aristocratic status, and perpet­ tions will be very limited, with lars, because the items are unique, uated contemporary gender are from the Ica region, and in IHIS COMPACT, NICELY-ILLUS- the majority of the Museum's roles. Iconographic conventions many cases are accompanied by 1 TRATED VOLUME highlights the rich Coptic, Islamic, and Indian also served social purposes. For information on provenience and embroideries made by upper­ textiles not available for study. example, the representation of cultural associations. Arce does class English schoolgirls and For any TSA members planning Abraham was common because not receive public-sector financ­ young women in the 16th and a research or study visit to either he was understood as the ing for inventory, conservation 17th centuries. Such pictorial department, please make founder of the Hebrew nation, and storage, or exhibits, making and novelty ("fancywork") items arrangements to see the collec­ and thus a model for contempo­ the museum a center for pro­ were worked in silk and metal tions now, by contacting the rary kings. The David and jects that increase public aware­ thread. The book offers back­ Museum via its website Bethsheba story was understood ness of the value of the pre­ ground information about this www.ashmol.ox.ac.ukl or contact as a morality tale for young Columbian heritage of Ica and of needlework genre, followed by a the relevant department directly. women. Other background infor­ -Ruth Barnes Peru. As part of this commit­ mation includes a discussion of [email protected] ment, she has built collaborative the prints that such iconography projects with national and inter­ CALL FOR NOMINATIONS: was derived from; discussion of national researchers, including 2004 R. L. SHEP BOOK Textile theft in /ca, Peru stitches and technique; and refer­ conservation treatment of the AWARD ence materials, including a time O N OCT. 15, 2004, three of recently stolen Wari tunic, which NOMNATIONS FOR THE R. L. SHEP line of English history and family the most impressive fabrics was completed in 1999 by pri­ AWARD for books published in tree of period rulers, a stitch on exhibit in the Regional Mu­ vate conservators Nanette Skov 2004 are now being sought. guide, a glossary; and a discus­ seum of Ica, Peru were stolen. and Grace Katterman .. The award is given annually to sion of early 20th-century collec­ Of the thousands of spectacular -Ann H. Peters the publication judged to be tors of the genre. [email protected] the best English-language book The catalog primarily fea­ of the year in the field of eth­ tures pieces donated by j. Francis nic textile studies. Submit Mallett (this seems to represent nominations in writing by the total Ashmolean collection). March I, 2004 to the Shep Entries include full-page and Awards Chair closeup images of each piece, Prof. Beverly Gordon and technical and iconographic Environment, Textiles, Design (including likely sources) infor­ University of Wisconsin-Madison mation. Included are 15 pictorial 1300 Linden Drive embroideries; samplers; costume Madision, WI 53706-1575 accessories (gauntlets, coifs); and [email protected] novelty pieces, including a frog­ shaped purse and tape measure, The award will be conferred in cleverly made from a walnut fall, 2005. See the TSA website, shell covered with silk and gold http;lItextilesociety.org or con­ mesh and tassels. tact the TSA office for more information. -Beverly Gordon Coverlet from the Edie and Stan Ross Coliection,American Textile History Museum No. 2004.98.5 I 10 TSA NEWSLETTER ATHM Receives TSGNY $500 Student Coverlet Collection Award A COLLECfION OF 73 nine­ Deadline: Feb. 16. The Textile teenth-century American Study Group of New York coverlets was donated to the (TSGNY) announces its biennial American Textile History award, the Nancy and Harry Museum in Lowell, MA in 2004 Koenigsberg Student Award by Edie and Stan Ross, and is (NHKSA). The NHKSA is open now available to researchers. to all college students and gradu­ The Future of the Twentieth ATHM Curator Karen Herbaugh British Textile Society ate students who create fiber art says the gift makes a significant Century - Collecting, Interpreting Scholarships and and are matriculated in a college, & Conserving Modern Materials addition to ATHM's coverlet col­ school, or university in CT, DC, Awards July 26-28, 2005 lection, bringing its total to 313. MA, ME, MD, NH, N/, NY, PA, The new collection is strong in University of Southampton Deadline: April 14. The Textile RI, VA, or VT, and there is no coverlets from Ohio and Indiana Winchester, England Society Museum, Archive or entry fee. (Students do not need provenance, two areas from Repository Award Scheme sup­ to join TSGNY to apply for the Deadline: Feb. 1. This interna­ which the Museum had few ports textile-related projects that NHKSAJ Entries will be juried tional conference encompasses examples. It also includes a vari­ will help achieve greater aware­ by the TSGNY award committee materials and artifacts, makers ety of new designs not previous­ ness and access to the public. and the winner will receive the and collectors, cultural theorists ly represented in ATHM's collec­ The award is for £ 1000 and $500 award, a free TSGNY and conservators. It will include tion. The addition of the Edie there is no defined area for fund­ membership and an invitation to modern man-made and synthetic and Stan Ross Coverlet ing, although projects must be present his/her fiber artwork at textiles, non-textile modern Collection offers scholars the textile or costume-related. the June 15, 2005 TSGNY meet­ materials found in relation to opportunity to study multiple Funding has previously been ing in New York City. textiles and dress, and contem­ coverlets by the same weaver granted for publication of a There are no limitations on porary techniques of textile man­ and to compare the weaving leaflet, conservation, help materials. TSGNY defines fiber ufacture. Papers are invited from techniques, designs, and colors towards the building of a study art as fine art made with flexible specialists in a range of disci­ used by a weaver over time. facility, money for an exhibition, materials. Works constructed plines addressing issues of mak­ and a grant for an artist-in-resi­ with textile techniques are also ing, collecting, researching, ana­ ASM's Archaeological dence. Further information, eligible. Fiber art may be flat or lyzing, and conserving. Papers Repository application forms and the guide­ sculptural, functional or non­ will be selected for presentation lines can be obtained from the functional, and the materials may and publication in the post-prints HE ARIZONA STATE MUSEUM'S Textile Society website, www.tex­ be natural or man-made. through peer-review. TARCHAEOLOGICAL REPOSITORY tiiesociety.org.uh or contact Sue A NHKSA application is This is the second annual receives and manages collections Kerry [email protected] available on the TSGNY website: conference of the Research generated by public excavations

WINTER 2005 II on the relationship of baskets to Insular Southeast Asia," the role of agriculture in SE Asia. Curated by textiles in daily society and their Victoria Rivers. May IS-Jun. 24: use in ceremonies to maintain har­ "Recent Acquisitions of the Design monious relationships with the Collection." 5301752-6150. deceased or the gods. Sep. 2-Feb. http://design. ucdavis. edulmuseum 26, 2006: "Silk and Leather: Splendid Attire of 19th Century San Jose Museum of Quilts and Central Asia." TEL 202/667-0441. Textiles. To Feb. 27: "Quilt www.textilemuseum.org National 2003." www.sjquiltmuseum.org Smithsonian American Art ni e d States Museum, Renwick Gallery. To Jul. COLORADO 10: "High Fiber" explores nontradi­ tional materials. Denver Art Museum. To Jan. 23: ARIZONA http://americanan.si.edu Cloth label, "Empire" showing 'Tiwanaku: Ancestors of the Inca." Arizona State Museum, Tucson. the Statue of Liberty in a laurel A comprehensive exhibition on the To Apr. 30: "Navajo Weaving at Smithsonian Arthur M. Sadder wreath, c. 1890 from the exhibi­ Tiwanaku culture, Bolivia, AD Arizona State Museum: 19th Gallery. Oct. 29-Jan. 22, 2006: tion "Born on the 4th of July" at 300-1000, with over 100 pieces Century Blankets, 20th Century "The Crescent and the Rose: the American Textile History from collections in Europe, South Museum, Lowell, MA. Rugs, 21st Century Views." Weavers Ottoman Imperial Textiles from America, and the United States. To have made artistic choices through the Sixteenth and Seventeenth May 15: "No Boundaries" curated the decades based on their own Centuries." Fiber Art Center, Amherst. Mar. by Alice Zrebiec. Selected works creativity and cultural changes. 3-Apr. 30: "Art Quilts in Amherst," standing at the intersection of fine juried exhibition of small-scale art Curated by Ann Lane Hedlund. ILLINOIS www.statemuseum.arizona.edu art and fiber art question the rele­ quilts, also at Burnett Gallery, vance of such categories. Mar. 19- Field Museum, Chicago. To Feb. Jones Library. TEL 413/256-1818. 13: "Macchu Picchu: Unveiling the CALIFORNIA Jun. 19: "Kaleidescope of Color: www·fiberancenter.com Amish Quilts." TEL 720/865-5000. Mystery of the Incas. LA County Museum of Art, Los www.denverartmuseum.org www·fieldmuseum.org Fuller Craft Museum, Brockton. Angeles. To Apr. 3: "Luxury To Jan. 30: "Lisa Williamson: Colors Textiles East and West: Opulent CONNECTICUT MARYLAND of a Garden," painted quilts. To Interiors." To Apr. 3: 'The Arts and May I: 'Transformation East," Crafts Movement in Europe and Wadsworth Atheneum Museum Balimore Museum of Art. Mar. works featuring recycling, including America: Design for the Modern of Art, Hartford. To Mar. 6: 23-Sep. 18: "A Legacy of Lace,: the 'Sonic Rhythm Dress' worn by World, 1880-1920." Mar. 12-Jun. ''TraditionslTransitions: The Chang­ Selections from the Cone rock musician John Fischman. 26: "Images of Fashion from the ing World of Fiber Art;" highlights Collection." Features 47 laces www·fullercraftmuseum.org Court of Louis XIY." A rare folio are works by Lenore Tawney and spanning 5 centuries, curated by Norma Minkowitz. TEL 8601278- Anita Jones. "Filigree Spaces: of colored engravings, 1678-1693, Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. among the first fashion plates in 2670. www.wadswonhatheneum.org Textile Installations by Piper Shepard." Two works show con­ To Mar. 13: "High Style and Hoop existence, which were authorized Skirts: 1850s Fashion." by Louis XIV to promote French DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA nections between textiles and architecture. www.anbma.org www.mfa.org luxury goods and culture. TEL The Textile Museum. To Feb. 6: 323/857-6000. www.laana.org "Floral Perspectives in Carpet Peabody Museum. Cambridge. MASSACHUSETTS Design." To Mar. 6: "A Garden of To Jun. 30: "Berber Arts." Japanese American Museum of Shawls: The Buta and Its Seeds" American Textile History www.peabody.harvard.edu San Jose. To Jun. 30: "1942: will trace the design vocabulary of Museum, Lowell. To Apr. 3: Luggage from Home to Camp." Kashmir shawls through the buta, "Born on the 4th of July: Lowell Victoria Munroe Fine Art, TEL 408/294-3138. www.jamsj.org or paisley. Jan. 28-Jun. 5: "Beyond Celebrates the Nation" explores Boston. Feb. 1-28: "Embroideries the Bag: Textiles as Containers." the role of textiles in describing by Katherine Porter." UC Davis Design Museum. To Apr. I-Sep. II: 'Textiles for This American views of country and www.victoriamunroejinean.com Mar. 4: "Baskets of Asia" focuses World and Beyond: Treasures of character, and in building a nation­ al identity. Includes 18th, 19th and MINNESOTA 20th-century coverlets, cloth labels, Goldstein Museum of Design, and costumes. TEL 978/441-0400. University of Minnesota, St. Paul. www.athmorg Jun. 5-Sep. 1\ : "Maya Textiles Amherst Museum. To Jun. 30: from the Guatemalan Highlands." "Stepping Out: A Celebration of TEL 612/624-7434. Shoes," footwear from mid-18th http://goldstein.che.umn.edu century to the present. Christensen Gallery, Augsburg www.amherstmuseum.org College, Minneapolis. Feb. 25-Apr 2. "Essence," crochet sculpture by Karen Searle. Gallery view of "No Boundaries" Minneapolis Institute of Arts. exhibition, courtesy of the To Jun. 26: "Floral Perspectives: Denver Art Museum. 1970s Textiles." www.ansmia.org 12 TSA NEWSLETTER Museum of International Folk To Aug. 7: "Origin and Synthesis: Textile Museum of Canada, Art, Santa Fe. To Jan. 30: "Arte Y Selected Weavings by Janice Toronto. Jan. 19-Apr. 3: "Thor Amistad: Selections from the Lessman-Moss 1994-2004." To Hansen: Crafting a Canadian Besser Collection of Contem­ Oct. 23: "Allegory and Symbol: Style" and "'Nuvisavik: The Place porary Hispanic Art." To Aug. 28: Chinese Robes in the Kent State Where We Weave: Inuit Tapestries "Carnaval!" Costumes from eight University Museum Collection." from Arctic Canada."To May 15 : international Carnival celebrations To Nov. 27: "The Right Chemistry: "The Collector's Eye: Rugs from reflecting the range of masquerade Colors in Fashion 1704-1908." the Vodstrcil Collection." Features and performance themes in eight TEL 330/672-3450. pieces from Iran, Afghanistan, sites. TEL 505/476-1200. www.kent.edulmuseum Central Asia, through Turkey to www.moifa.org China, including classical Persian Western Reserve Historical rugs from the Safavid period Society, Cleveland. To Apr. 10: NEW YORK (J502-1722). "Contemporary Textile Arts of the www.museumfortextiles.on.ca American Folk Art Museum, Western Reserve." TEL 216/721- "Helen ius Oy," Marjatta Metsovaara, New York. To Mar. 6: "Blue." The 5722. www.wrhs.org Finnish, early I 970s cotton screenprint, multiple dimensions of the color AUSTRALIA Minneapolis Institute ofArts, 2004.169.4. blue are explored through the National Gallery of Australia, Gift of Richard L Simmons in memory PENNSYLVANIA museum's collection of American Canberra. To Jan. 30: "Vivienne of Roberta Grodberg Simmons. Allentown Art Museum. To Feb. folk art from the 18th century to Westwood." 27: 'Toiles For All Seasons: French MISSOURI the present. TEL 212/977-7298. and English Printed Textiles." Saint Louis Art Museum. To www·folkartmuseum.org www.allentownartmuseum.org Powerhouse Museum, Sydney. Feb. 27: "Ottoman Embroideries To Feb. 13: "Bright Flowers: Cooper-Hewitt National Design Textiles and Ceramics from from the Collection." TEL 314/721- Philadelphia Museum of Art. Museum, New York. To Feb. 27: Central Asia." 0072. www.slam.org To Feb. 28: "Woven for Comfort "Josef and Anni Albers: Designs www.powerhousemuseum.com and Joy: 19th-Century American for Living" includes over 50 exam­ Craft Alliance, St. Louis. Mar. 18- Coverlets." ples of Anni's textiles and designs. May IS : "Material Content: www.philamuseum.org ENGLAND Apr.8-Jan. 15,2006: "Extreme Basketry Sculpture in the 21 st The Horniman Museum, Textiles: Designing for High Per­ Century." www.crafialliance,org Woven Fiber Art House, West London. To Feb. 25: "Woven formance" highlights extraordinary Chester. Apr. 1-30: "Jacquard Blossoms: Textiles from Savu, innovations in technical textiles NEBRASKA Tapestries by Carol LeBaron." Indonesia" TEL +44.0.208699.1872 and their effects on the fields of Robert Hillestad Textiles architecture, apparel, medicine, www.homiman.ac.uk Gallery, University of Nebraska, transportation, aerospace, and the WASHINGTON. Lincoln. Feb. 7-Mar. 4: environment. TEL 212/849-8400. Kittredge Gallery, University of GUATEMALA "Contemporary Quilts from the www.coo"perhewitt.org Puget Sound, Tacoma. Mar. 21- Museo Ixchel, Guatemala City. Jack Walsh Collection." Apr. 16: 'Tapestry Artists of Puget Ongoing: "Magic and Mystery of TEL 402/472-2911. Metropolitan Museum of Art, Sound," recent work. Jaspe," ikat in Guatemala. http://textilegallery.un1.edu. New York. To Mar. 13: "Wild: TEL 253/879-2806. TEL 502.2.33.13634 Fashion Untamed," the ongoing Sheldon Memorial Gallery, obsession with animalism as ex' UNL, Lincoln. Feb. 26-Aug. 7: pressed through clothing. May 5- WISCONSIN Virtual 'The Collector's Eye: Amish Quilts Aug. 7: "Chanel." June 23-Sep. 25: Gallery of Design, University of from the Intemational Quilt Study "Matisse, His Art and His Textiles: www·fiberscene.com. Wisconsin-Madison. Feb. II -Mar. Center Collections." The Fabric of Dreams." The impact To Mar I: "The British Are 18: "Green Design." www.quiltstudy.org of Henri Matisse's lifelong interest Coming." Fiber Art from the in textiles will be shown in a selec­ British Isles, including work by Museum of Nebraska History, tion of paintings, drawings, prints, Michael Brennand-Wood, Clare Lincoln. To April, 2006: "Patch­ International and painted paper cutouts. Churchouse, Jac Scott, Susan work Lives," quilts of Great Plains www.metmuseum.org Stockwell and Naomi Vincent. pioneer women from the collec­ CANADA Mar. I-May I: "Art Textiles of the tions of the International Quilt The Museum at FIT, New York. Bata Shoe Museum, Toronto. To World: Scandinavia," curated by Study Center and the Nebraska Feb. 8-Apr. 9: "Rico Puhlman: A Aug. 31 : "Beads, Buckles and Bows: Matthew Kuomis of Telos State Historical Society; four rota­ Fashion Legacy, 1955-1996." Feb. Four Hundred Years of Embellished Publishing, in conjunction with his­ tions of 16 quilts each. IS-Apr. 9: "Glamour: Fashion, Footwear" features some of the new book of the same title. www.quiltstudy.org Film, Fantasy." Mar. I-Apr. 16: Westem world's most creatively and "Designing the It Girl: Lucile and extravagantly decorated shoes. TEL thttp://www.nebraskahistory.orglsitesl NEW MEXICO . mnh/patchwork_livesl Her Style." TEL 2121217-5800. 416/979-7799 x225. Museum of Indian Arts and www·fitnyc.suny.edulmuseum www.batashoemuseumca The exhibit "Patchwork Lives," fea­ Culture, Santa Fe. To Jun. 30: turing quilts from the International Quilt Study Center and the "Beauty Within," 100 artifacts cele­ OHIO Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto. brating the creativity and originali­ To Feb. 13 : ''Touched by Indigo: Nebraska State Historical Society, Kent State University Museum. ty of native peoples in North Chinese Blue and White Textiles and is now available on the web. To May 15 : "Dyed in the Wool: America. TEL 505/476-1269. Embroidery." www.romon.ca Felt and Wearable Art by Horst." www.miac1ab.org

WINTER 2005 13 Lectures at the Cooper Hewitt, National April 14-17. NAVAJO WEAVING Design Museum. tEL 2121849- Now! A symposium produced in Arizona State Museum lectures. 8351. www.cooperhewitt.org conjunction with the exhibition Feb. 4: "Aren't You Dyeing to "Navajo Weaving" at Arizona State Know?: Testing for Dyes in Early Tours Museum: 19th Century Blanketsl Navajo Weaving," Dr. David 20th Century Rugsl2l st Century Art Workshops in Antigua, Wenger. Feb. 21: "Navajo Views." Widely-known Navajo Guatemala. Mar. 3-13. Mayan Weaving-Materials & Techniques," weavers and artists, collectors, Textile Tour To Antigua, Lake Ann Lane Hedlund. leading scholars, active researchers, Atitlan and Quetzaltenango led by www.statemuseum.arizona.edu art gallery owners, and museum Karen Searle. Mar. 14-23. Loom curators examine the current state Beading: A Painterly Approach Feb. 24-26. Lincoln, NE. Minneapolis Institute of Arts of Navajo weaving in the with Gayle Liman; Hand Painting COLLECTORS, COLLECTING, AND Textile Curatorial Council Lectures. American Southwest and beyond. on Silk with Hilary Simon. COLLECTIONS. The Intemational jan. 20: "Here & There, Now & Topics include challenges facing www.artguat.org. Quilt Study Center's second bien­ Then: Historical Glimpses of Textile Navajo weavers today and cre­ nial symposium features speakers, Globalization," Lotus Stack. Apr. ative solutions.; how weavers May 13-27. Intemational Shibori juried papers, thematic sessions, 21: "India-West African Embroidery today are informed by the past. SymposiumlWorld Quilt and panels, plus pre-conference Trade: The Last Hundred Years of Current work by contemporary Conference Tour Program in tours, including a behind-the­ Design Development," Hazel Lutz. Navajo weavers will be on view. japan. Two-week tour especially scenes look at the IQSCs state-of­ www.ansmia.org www.statemuseum.arizona.edu designed for fiber artists. Attend the-art storage facility, and curator­ [email protected] the Aichi Expo (World Fair) in led tours of exhibitions in the area. Textile Arts Council, DeYoung tEL 520/626-8364 Museum, Palace of the Legion of Nagoya; see ancient architecture Speakers: Russell W. Belk, market­ in Nara; sightseeing in Kyoto; and ing expert; the feminist art group, Honor, San Francisco, CA. jan. 16: Apr. 16-17. TEXTILES AND much more. Guerrilla Girls; Nancy Druckman, Linda Gass. tEL 4151750-2660. METHODS OF DATING, Antwerp, Sotheby's; jonathan Holstein, col­ Belgium, sponsored by Textiles May 16-17. Technical Tours in and lector, dealer, author and lecturer; UC Davis Design Museum. from the Nile Valley research around Tokyo. Participants will Shelly Zegart, collector, dealer, and jan. 30: "Southeast Asian Baskets: group (Egypt, I st millennium AD). Ethnobotany, Agriculture and have the chance to visit weaving author; Ursula lise-Neuman, Lectures about textiles dated by Design," Victoria Z. Rivers. mills, dye studios, fashion houses Curator, Museum of Arts and their archaeological context; 14C­ design. ucdavis.edu/museum and more. Contact: Design; Mary Catherine Lamb, analyzed textiles from various col­ World Shibori Network- independent studio quilt artist/col­ lections; and textiles dated on the Fiber Arts Center, Amherst, MA. 696 Hilldale Ave. lector; and jack Walsh, collector. basis of iconography, historical Mar. 10: "Art Quilts," Sylvia Berkeley, CA 94708 USA Kathy Moore sources, technique and colors; plus Einstein, quilter. 4131256-1818. tEL 510/527-3432 Symposium Coordinator an exhibition at HeadquARTers in www./iberartcenter.com FAX 510/527-0231 Intemational Quilt Study Center [email protected] [email protected] Antwerp. Information: Elvehjem Museum of Art, [email protected] http://quiltstudyunl .edu Prof. Dr. Antoine De Moor University of Wisconsin, Madison. Windekekouter 90 Helen Louise Allen Textile Coll­ Nov. 3-Nov. 21. Textile Odyssey Apr. 9. Los Angeles County B-9860 Scheldewindeke ection Lecture, Mar. 31 : "Fashion Tour to Vietnam and Laos, led by Museum of Art. THE THIRD R.L. [email protected] and Architecture," Bradley Quinn. Mary Connors. Travel to the vil­ SHEP TRIENNIAL SYMPOSIUM ON Dr. Cicilia Fluck lages of several highlands ethnic TEXTILES AND DRESS held in con­ Siiderweg 13 groups--the supplementary weft junction with the exhibition, D-25923 Siiderliigum Seminars weaving of the Tais, the fine "Images of Fashion from the Court [email protected] Feb. 29.. Minneapolis Institute embroidery work of the Yao-Mien of Louis XIV," on view Mar. 12- and the applique and batik work ' of Arts, Textile Curatorial Council jun. 26, 2005. Lectures focus on May 13-14. Bellaria, Italy. of the Hmong. There will also be 17th-century French court life and seminar "Exhibition and Care of INTERNATIONAL FORUM OF LACE visits to craft workshops in Luang Personal Textile Art Collections," fashion during the reign of Louis AND EMBROIDERY. Workshops, Prabang and Vientiane, with the Patricia Ewer. TEL 6121870-3047. XlV. Participating speakers repre­ exhibition of antique lace, and www.artsmia.org option of participating in either a sent institutions such as the weaving or a dyeing workshop. markets. www.italiainvita.it Courtauld Institute of Art, the Information: Serena Lee May 12: Rockefeller University, Victoria and Albert Museum, The j. Harrington May 14-17. 6TH INTERNATIONAL New York. "Extreme Textiles: The Paul Getty Museum, and The Textile Odyssey SHIBORI SYMPOSIUM (ISS 'OS), Space between Science, Technology Huntington Library. 854 34th Ave Tama Arts University, Tokyo, and Design." A Multidisciplinary Nancy Lawson Carcione San Francisco, CA. japan. Additional events: May 16- symposium will address the con­ Dept. of Costume and Textiles tEL 415/666-3636 17, Technical Tours in and around vergence of science, technology, LA County Museum of Art [email protected]. Tokyo. May 18-22, Post-ISS­ and design through panel discus­ 5905 Wilshire Blvd. Related Exhibition and Events, sions and a veriety of demonstra­ Los Angeles, CA 9003 6 Note: Calendar submissions are Nagoya, japan. May 20-22, World tions. Held in conjunction with the included on a space-available basis. TEL 323/857-6081 Quilt Camival (WQC 'OS) Nagoya exhibition "Extreme Textiles: Preference is given to events involving FAX 323/857-6218 Dome, japan. May 13-27, Designing for High Performance" TSA member:s. [email protected] ISSIWQC Tour Program. [email protected]

14 TSA NEWSLETTER Information: email both addresses: Aug 4-7. STATUS, MYTH AND THE Nov. 8-12. RECOVERING THE PAST: [email protected] SUPERNATURAL - UNRAVELING THE THE CONSERVATION OF TSA Newsletter shibori [email protected] SECRETS OF SOUTHEAST ASIAN ARCHEOLOGICAL AND EDITOR/LAYOUT Karen Searle TEXTILES, Bangkok, Thailand. The ETHNOGRAPHIC TEXTILES, Mexico World Shibori Network homepage second symposium sponsored by City, Mexico. 5th Biennial North COpy EDITOR Susan Ward www.shibori.org - the James H. W. Thompson American Textiles Conservation World Quilt Carnival homepage CALENDAR EDITOR Foundation, in conjunction with Conference. Focus: conservation, www.wqc.jp - Rebecca Klassen Jim Thompson Thai Silk Co fea­ research, diffusion, and exhibition tures lectures by distinguished of archaeological and ethnog­ Winter Issue Deadline: Jun. 2-5. UNCOVERING THE scholars and textile experts from raphic textiles of every country. SURFACE. Surface Design March 30, 2005 around the world. The symposium Dedicated to Irmgard Weitlaner Association's International Textile will focus on the traditional role Johnson, for her over fifty years of Please send news, reviews, Conference, Kansas City Art and function of textiles in coun­ research, rescue, and preservation Institute, Kansas City, MO. Pre­ listings and articles to: tries such as Burma (Myanmarl, of the textile designs of several and post-conference workshops [email protected] Cambodia, Indonesia, Laos, the Mexican ethnic groups. Registration May 29-Jun. I and Jun. 6-8, plus Karen Searle Philippines, and Thailand. Other materials available in Spring 2005 exhibitions. 1742 Portland Ave. activities include an optional three­ from: www.surfacedesignorg day excursion to visit weaving Ma. Judith Eunice Gomez Gonzalez St. Paul, MN 55104 [email protected] areas in northeastern Thailand. Museo Nacional de Antropologfa TEL/FAX 651/642-9897 During the symposium there will Subdireccion de Etnografia INAH Jun. 10-12. Massachusetts College Please send calendar be special textile displays and exhi­ Av. Paseo de la Reforma y Gandhi of Art, Boston. WORLD BATIK items to: bitions. The first symposium in Col. Chapultepec Polanco CONFERENCE BOSTON 2005. [email protected] 1999, "Southeast Asian Textiles Miguel Hidalgo, I 1560 Theme: batik, wax-resist textiles. through the Thread of Time," Mexico, D.E Artists, scholars, designers and col­ brought together twelve distin­ TEL 52.55.5553.6364 lectors from six continents present guished speakers with over two [email protected] workshops, papers, demonstrations, hundred participants. exhibitions, and a Merchants' Mall. symposium@jimthompsoncom Keynote Speaker: Mr. Kageo Miura Southeast Asia Tsumami Relief Organizations Symposium 2005 List of aid organizations compiled from the lM?ave A Real Peace listserve: (Kyoto, Japan). Presenters: Nicola c/o Jim Thompson Thai Silk Shilliam, Abby Lillethun and The American-Indonesian Chamber of Commerce. endorses: 9 Suriwong Road Cynthia Fowler (Early-20th-C Sav~ The Children www.savethechildren.org Bangkok 10500 American Batik); Fiona Kelogue, Mercy COil'S www.menycorps.org Thailand UK (Sumatra Traditions); Janet Up Lift International . www.upliftinternationalorg Stoyel, UK (Photon Laser Batik); Sept. 2005. England. COLOUR Other International relief organizations working to aid Tsunami victims: and Ray Pierotti (Contemporary CONGRESS II. Sponsored by Directions). Related exhibitions, American Red Cross. Send donations to the international Response Natural Dyes International, a non­ Fund, P.O. Box 37243, Washington, D.C. 20013. TEL 800/435-7669. events and study sessions will be profit organization for research held at the Museum of Fine Arts, and education on natural dyes and Asia Relief. a Maryland-based nonprofit organization is accepting dona­ Boston, American Textile History pigments. tions or cash, nonperishable food, clothing, and toys for victims in Sri Museum, New England Quilt http://www.naturaldyes.org Lanka. Asia Relief, 19409 Olive Tree Way, Gaithersburg, MD 20879. Museum, Peabody Essex Museum, [email protected] Contact Rizwan Mowlana at 301-672-9355 for more information. and Museum of Art, RISD. www.massart.edu/batik Association for India's Development Inc., a Maryland-based nonprofit Oct. 21-23. NORWEGIAN WOVEN worldbatik2 [email protected] organization accepts web donations to help relief work in India at TEXTILES, Vesterheim Norwegian­ http://www.aidindia.org or mailed to AID Zone 3,P.0. Box 4801, Information: American Museum, Decorah, IA. Mountain View, CA 94040-0801, with checks made payable to AID. Betsy Sterling Benjamin International symposium includes Contact Priya Ranjan at 30/-422-4441 for more information. Ann Wessmann invited speakers, juried papers, 3-D Dept. Fibers fiber art workshops, and exhibi­ Tsunami Relief Inc., a Virginia-based nonprofit group helpingvictfmsiti Mass. College of Art Sri Lanka. Donors can call 703/934-6922 or mail checks made tions of both historic and contem­ 621 Huntington Ave. payable to Tsunami Relief Inc. to 9302 Lee Hwy., Fifth Aoor,.Fairfax:, porary weaving. Information: Boston, MA 02115 VA 22031. Laurann Gilbertson Textile Curator B'nai B'rith International. Donations can be made online at July 26-28. THE FUTURE OF THE Vesterheim Museum http://www.bnaibrith.orgormailedtoB·naiB·rith Disaster Relief Fund, TWENTIETH CENTURY. COLLECTING, TEL 563/382-9681 2020 K St. N.W, Seventh Roor, Washington, INTERPRETING, & CONSERVING [email protected] D.C. 20006. MODERN MATERIALS. University of Southampton, Winchester, Southeast As@ Relief Fund. Donations can be sent c/o The Jewish England. Information: Federation of Greater Washington, 6101 Montrose Rd., Rockville, MD The Textile Conservation Centre 20852. In the memo line of your check, write: SDGOSDRT. University of Southampton More information about donations to humanitarian organizations can Park Avenue, Winchester, be found on the U.S. Agency for International Qevelopment's website, Hants S023 8DL, England, UK http://www.usaid.gov [email protected]

WINTER 2005 15 View from the Arcadia Hotel, istanbul, Turkey, an experience that awaits particpants in TSA's Spring Study Tour to Turkey, May JO·June 12, 2005. Photo: Walter Denny.

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DATED MATERIAL

Photographic details courtesy of Haffenreffer Museum of Anthropology, Brown University Estate of Lillian Elliott RlsDMuseum