May 2019 OORS MESSENGE News from Moor, Coast, Forest and Dale M www.northyorkmoors.org.ukR Tales from the Trail THE Cleveland Way, which 50 years ago became only the second National Trail in Britain, is unique in its combination of breath-taking coastal stretches and stunning heather moorland. Ceri Oakes From the smugglers’ village of Robin Hood’s Bay, to the artists’ paradise of Staithes, the iconic Roseberry Topping and the ‘finest view in England’ at Sutton Bank, the Cleveland Way provides both adventure and serenity for the thousands of visitors it attracts each year. The Trail was officially launched on 24 May 1969 from Helmsley Youth Hostel, with a ceremony taking place at Helmsley Castle. Its establishment was no small feat. The route took around 16 years to plan, Dear Residents, inspired by Middlesbrough Rambling Caption?? Club’s desire to start promoting MY last letter about the review long-distance walks along the coast of National Parks mentioned that and hills. At the summit of Cringle Moor there is a memorial to Alec the review panel is considering Falconer, a founder member of the amongst other matters whether Middlesbrough Rambling Club who any National Parks should be was instrumental in the Cleveland extended. This has prompted Way’s establishment. Alas, he died The Cleveland Way National Trail at Port Mulgrave. Below: Jewellery found at Street House, including a garnet several comments from nearby just a year before the Trail officially and red gemstone pendant (far right) belonging to the Loftus Saxon Princess. residents. launched. This in turn has prompted me to look more closely at this issue. Historic steps When the Park was originally designated it was larger than when While the route in its entirety its boundaries were eventually celebrates its half centenary, humans confirmed. To the south of the have been leaving their footprints National Park the original boundary on the fields and paths it follows for largely followed the old railway line. many thousands of years. Perhaps the oldest evidence of human activity Thus Kirkbymoorside and Beadlam, in the National Park are mesolithic Ebberston, Snainton, Brompton and flints, around 2000 of them, which Wrelton were all in the original were found in 1995 during footpath National Park. Similarly to the west, construction at Highcliff Nab. Dating both Greats – Busby and Broughton from somewhere between 10,000 were included, along with most of and 4,000 BC, they included early Sutton-under-Whitestonecliffe. and late examples of microliths, a Kirkleatham Museum Earlier proposals for the National flint technology that involved carefully start as burial mounds, or had later Princess. Buried approximately 1400 55 football pitches) and defended by Park boundary had included the shaping small sharp geometric points cremations added to them. They may years ago, lying on a wooden bed, a perimeter 1.3 miles long, it is the coast towards Skinningrove, and which can be fitted into arrows, have also acted as territorial markers. the mystery female must have been of largest Iron Age fort of its kind in the the review in the 80s suggested harpoons or possibly spears. This The example found on Live Moor is extremely high status, as her jewellery north of England and one of the top the inclusion of Whitby and a is more complex than it sounds, as particularly fine – 14 metres wide and is without parallel amongst Anglo- 20 in size in the whole country. re-adjustment south of Loftus. It it is a highly skilled process which 1.5 metres high, and almost exactly Saxon collections. The young woman In May this year, a group of walkers also noted the number of ‘divided’ needs careful pre-planning. Although on the Cleveland Way. Even older was found amongst 108 other graves, will set out from Helmsley to Rievaulx settlements, those half in and half there is little to see archaeologically, (and less noticeable) than these are just metres from the Cleveland Way Abbey to recreate the launch of the out of the National Park, particularly Highcliff Nab is a great place to stand the prehistoric ‘cup and ring’ stones; at a site known as Street House. Cleveland Way and some will even along the southern boundary and and look over the cliff, imagining the ancient rocks that feature engraved This isn’t the only archaeological be sporting 60’s rambling attire! It’s suggested these should be all in or all people who exploited this landscape circles and carved out hollows. Next site along the Cleveland Way of difficult to predict what the coming as hunter-gatherers. time you walk to the Wainstones or national importance. In 2001, a major decades will bring, but important that out. Felixkirk and Upsall have also Bronze-Age barrows, such as Lordstones, take an extra moment to archaeological investigation revealed we take the time now to recognise been subject of proposals in the past. Burton Howe on Ingleby Moor look out for these. that the whole plateau at Roulston the beauty and significance of this We would be interested to hear of and Drake Howe atop Cringle Those who have walked the Scar, near Sutton Bank, was once corner of Yorkshire – whether that be any further thoughts on the subject Moor, date from 2,200–750 BC. coastal section of the Cleveland Way occupied by a massive hillfort, believed as the home of a spectacular National of the boundary. The function of barrows isn’t fully between Saltburn and Sandsend may to date back to around 400 BC. Trail, or as a region of remarkable The submission of this Authority understood, but some did indeed know the story of the Loftus Saxon Covering an area of 60 acres (roughly human history. to the current review did not cover potential boundary extensions but was otherwise far reaching. Views on the importance of the continuing PARISH FORUM AN UPDATE ON FRACKING independence of the Authority were put forward. Also covered were IN 2018, after learning about planned exploration for shale gas reserves in the area, the National Park better management of wildlife and Authority published its position statement, affirming its policy to oppose hydraulic fracturing taking 2019 DATES rights of way, as well as finance and place within its boundaries. NORTHERN We understand entirely that this is and North Yorkshire County Council gas and its implications in relation governance. Thurs 3 Oct 2019 @ 7pm an opinion not shared by all; however, to produce a minerals and waste joint to climate change – is unlawful. As A copy of the submission in on there are extensive areas outside plan, which was set to be adopted by it is national planning policy that our website at www.northyorkmoors. Brown long-eared bat SOUTHERN the National Park which are also late 2018. The significance of this sets out the principles by which local org.uk/landscapes-review Tues 15 Oct 2019 @ 7pm licensed for exploration purposes, joint plan is high, as, amongst other authorities can make their own local WESTERN and it is in line with the original matters, it will guide decisions on planning policies and decisions, this Tues 22 Oct 2019 @ 7.15pm position of national government, planning applications for minerals issue will need to be resolved before which made a commitment to rule and shale gas developments across the minerals and waste joint plan COASTAL out fracking from taking place within all three areas, up to 2030. The can be adopted. Thurs 24 Oct 2019 @ 7pm National Parks and other particularly joint plan looks set to be further l Further information about the sensitive areas. delayed, however, as in March of this progress of the plan can be found Venues for all meetings to The Authority, in its mineral year the High Court ruled that a key on the Examination website www. Andy Wilson be confirmed. These meetings planning capacity, has also been aspect of the government’s national Chief Executive are open to all. northyorks.gov.uk/minerals-and- working with City of York Council planning policy – relating to shale waste-joint-plan-examination. (National Park Officer)

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Spotlight on ON THE VERGE MOST of us pass roadside verges every day without giving them much thought. Their importance is often overlooked, but they are an absolutely vital part of our environment, providing a haven for wildflowers, insects, birds and small mammals. Originally, verges would have Access needs must also be been grazed by horses or livestock. considered – a road verge might LAND OF Wider verges would have been be an essential link for pedestrians treated much like meadows and or riders or provide a safe place scythed in summer to provide hay. to cross the road. Keeping longer short-lived ‘iron rush’ in the North York These days, with the exception grass to the back of the verge New exhibition Moors. Interactive displays and a Land of verges across moorland and means that potholes and culverts coming soon of Iron-themed marble-run will entertain common land, mowers are almost can be easily spotted. even the youngest of moorland explorers, always used, with priority given Budget constraints mean that Opening summer 2019 is a brand new and demonstrate how millions of tons to safety and access rather than North Yorkshire County Council and fully immersive visitor experience of ironstone were hewn from the local wildlife. Both cutting verges early can only cut verges (on urban roads at The Moors National Park Centre hills and valleys to help fuel the Industrial in the season, before wildflowers it is responsible for) for the purpose in Danby. The exhibition will provide Revolution. Complementing the new have had an opportunity to seed, or of visibility at junctions and of a fascinating insight into the history exhibition will be a range of interpretation late, when too large an amount of road signs. However, it also makes IRON and habitats of the North York Moors; cut material would be left to rot, is a financial contribution towards exploring how these iconic landscapes panels across the Land of Iron. These will include 3D cast models of how the detrimental to biodiversity. If verges 100 Parish Councils who wish to were formed and the connections are not cut at all, natural processes undertake urban grass cutting in eople in the ark landscape used to look at places such as P P between the plants and animals that mean sensitive species will quickly their own areas. Bank Top Kilns, Grosmont Ironworks and thrive there. Visitors will experience the be lost, as more competitive In Redcar and Cleveland, grass Ingleby Incline. You can join the opening dramatic story of Victorian ironstone scrubland vegetation takes hold. verges are maintained once per extraction, the ingenuity of the moorland celebrations at our ‘Escape to the Moors’ Ideally, in order to maximise year. railways and the sometimes harsh realities event on Sunday 21 July, 11am–4pm at biodiversity, most grass verges (that To find out more about who of life for the people who shared in this the Moors National Park Centre. are not near a junction or pose a is responsible for grass verges in Out for the safety concern) should: your area, you can visit the ‘roads • Be cut at least once per year and pavements’ page of the North Ring ouzel after most plants have finished Yorkshire County Council website. flowering. A second late cut can For Redcar and Cleveland, visit be carried out where necessary. www.redcar-cleveland.gov.uk. daffodil count We are lucky to have many • Have grass clippings removed stretches of verge that still boast where possible. Clippings DENISE and Paul Grantham first started as North some beautiful wildflowers, but we York Moors Voluntary Rangers way back in 1973. allowed to rot cause the soil to mustn’t take them for granted! become enriched, which favours Members of the public interested Denise filled the form in first, making her the senior grasses and other species that in finding out more about of the two, then they were given lapel badges and told IT’S been two years since the £4 outcompete wildflowers. managing verges for wildlife and • Have a mixture of long and to “go off and range”. Essentially they’ve been out on million project to conserve, protect the types of species they can patrol ever since, rain or shine. and record the trailblazing story short grass. Leaving a strip of support, may be interested in longer grass near the hedge or of ironstone mining and the North visiting the Plantlife website, at Their first assignment was to fighters, and we drove up from our North East Wildlife back of the verge can maximise plantlife.love-wildflowers.org.uk/ count the wild daffodils of Farndale, homes in Hull every single evening York Moors’ railways officially got Rosedale Black Houses diversity and provide a habitat roadvergecampaign. a task that Denise assumed was until the last fire finally went out on underway. Since 2017, the Land for insects. clearly a first day wind-up, given the September 17th.” Denise continues: of Iron project has seen significant Wildlife Week numbers involved. “There have been poignant moments conservation works at sites including Combs Wood The protection of important local wildlife “I didn’t do it the first day,” she and funny moments. We once came Warren Moor mine, the only fully habitats is intrinsic to the Land of Iron said. “I just thought they were pulling across an elderly couple sat at the Hidden away in ancient woodland near project, and there are many species that call the leg of the new girl. It wasn’t until side of the path in Rosedale. We intact Victorian ironstone mine Goathland are the remains of Beck Hole the post-industrial landscape of Rosedale the next morning, when the other asked if they were ok, and they said chimney still standing in the UK, Ironworks. Established in 1857, this was home. The North York Moors is one of volunteers were producing figures, they had come to say goodbye to and the East Kilns in Rosedale, a rather ill-fated enterprise troubled by just a few upland areas in England where I suddenly realised it wasn’t a joke! the Moors. It turned out they lived in which were previously threatened by faulty blast furnaces and falling iron prices. ring ouzels still breed, and the remains of Let’s just say my numbers might not London, but were giving up driving, landslips. Twenty-seven volunteers The final blow came in 1864 when one industrial structures provide important crags have been very accurate that year.” so this would be the last time they night a landslide buried many of the mine and gullies that the birds like to nest in. In Forty-six years on, Denise (68) visited. There’s also the occasion, and apprentices have been trained entrances; mine workers arrived one 2018, more than 150 rowan trees were and Paul (72) can still regularly be on an exceptionally windy day in in use of hot lime mix mortars morning for work to find their mines planted in Rosedale, which in future years found staffing the mobile visitor unit Saltergate car park that a nun in full to re-point historic structures, closed, though luckily nobody was injured. will provide the nutritious berries that ring in the Low Mill car park, and later habit came striding over to me to and virtual 3D models have been Despite its short life a wealth of information ouzels so depend on before their long, in the year at Saltergate. The couple ask where she could get hang-gliding created of more than 30 buildings lays buried beneath the trees and for the annual journey back to Northern Africa. also have a special connection with lessons.” last two years National Park archaeologists Between 23 and 29 June, the Land of the parish of Rosedale, where they The couple, who still commute and artefacts (see sketchfab.com/ and enthusiastic volunteers have been Iron project team will be hosting a week’s check footpaths and bridges, deal from Hull for their volunteering, have landofiron). undertaking investigations to uncover these worth of wildlife-themed walks, family with minor maintenance issues and no plans to stop just yet. Land of Iron is a Landscape secrets. Discoveries have included stables activities and fieldtrips with local experts in chat to residents and visitors alike. “We’re here to assist,” says Partnership scheme supported by the for the horses and ponies, valuable to the beautiful Rosedale. Highlights include ‘Go Asked about memorable moments Denise. “That’s how we see it, and Heritage Lottery Fund, the National mines for hauling heavy wagons of ironstone Wild on the Village Green’, ‘Bats of the across the last four decades, Paul we’ll be here as long as we can be through the mines and possibly along the Abbey’ and ‘Fabulous Flora’. There will also says: “The fire. It was us that first of use.” Park Authority, the David Ross tramways to the main railway line, which be a series of evening talks on everything reported the fire on Glaisdale Moor l If you know somebody who you Foundation and other partners. now forms the Rail Trail. The excavation from wildlife photography to ring ouzels. in 1976, which burnt day and night think deserves a spot in Moors returns again this summer and a public l For details and booking information, for nearly three months. It was 5pm Messenger and would be happy open day is planned for Saturday 13 July. visit www.northyorkmoors.org.uk/rosedale on June 26th and we were just to be featured, please email your Book a place early to avoid disappointment. getting ready to leave Saltergate suggestion, along with a few wildlifeweek Nan Sykes carpark when we saw the smoke. words about them, to press@ Paddy Chambers We were on-site with the first fire- northyorkmoors.org.uk. PLEASE help protect the wildlife and beauty that make the North York Moors so special. The spread of plant and animal diseases can be exacerbated by the activities of humans, not only by those who work in the landscape, but also by those just carrying out day-to-day activities and recreational hobbies. Taking basic precautions only requires a few minutes and can help reduce the likelihood of potential disease outbreaks. TAKING or different stretches of water. The simple cattle. The parasite reproduces in dogs (and Help stop the spread measures include cleaning boots, clothing and Neosporosis foxes). Its eggs are produced in the digestive Our trees and wildlife are under increasing tyres/wheel arches between woodland visits, You may have seen advice in the media tract, shed in faeces, and can remain alive and following the ‘check, clean and dry’ advice Mike Kipling threat from pests, diseases and invasive species. in recent years that suggests the best way in the environment for about six months. between wetland ones. Members of the public Cows consuming contaminated food Human activity is a key factor in their spread, to deal with dog poo in the countryside who regularly travel between similar sites are subsequently become infected. The National moving them around the world faster than is to use a stick to flick it away from any encouraged to be aware of basic biosecurity Park Authority urges dog owners to always natural processes. The spread of tree diseases footpath, and then leave it to decompose. advice, and to always follow any notices they While we all hate to see plastic dog waste deal with their dog’s mess appropriately. MOOR and the accidental introduction of invasive see in the countryside regarding specific risks bags littering the landscape, the ‘stick Please keep your dog regularly wormed, species to rivers, lakes and other waterways in an area. and flick’ message can unfortunately prove and remember that arable crops and grass is of particular concern. To help reduce these l For more information, visit the GOV.UK deadly in fields where cattle may graze or are used for producing food for both people risks as much as possible, the National Park website and search for ‘prevent the introduction that is cut for cattle feed. and livestock. Authority is sharing guidance with staff and and spread of tree pests and diseases’. Neosporosis is a disease caused by a Bag your dog mess and always put it in volunteers to help prevent organic material Anglers, boaters and paddlers can also visit parasite called Neospora caninum which a bin. Please never throw the bag into trees CARE being carried between areas of woodland www.nonnativespecies.org/checkcleandry. commonly results in abortion and stillbirth in or bushes. Runswickhat Bay to pot W S Graham Featherstone NEWS SMALL EGGAR IN BRIEF CATERPILLAR THE North York Moors important stronghold. enabling the larvae greater Access for all provide refuge for many rare Adult Small Eggar’s fly from metabolic control, and therefore WORK by the Western Ranger team, insects and one less well- February to April, though are faster development to the pupal Yorkshire Water and the National rarely seen. The conspicuous hairy stage. Trust has seen the completion of a known species is the Small fully accessible 2.1km circular route caterpillars, however, are much The Small Eggar’s decline, and Eggar (Eriogaster lanestris), at Cod Beck reservoir, Osmotherley. more likely to be encountered, a moth of traditionally farmed our lack of understanding as to This popular and extremely scenic landscapes. and can be spotted on Blackthorn why, mirrors many other species. beauty spot now has a levelled Once common throughout or Hawthorn from May to July. However, by protecting wild areas, footpath all the way round suitable England, its extensive but as They live in groups on silken supporting traditional farming, for wheelchairs, scooters, trampers yet unexplained decline means larval webs, sometimes as large and gardening with nature in and pushchairs. the southern edge of the North as a football. These webs help mind, everyone can help insects York Moors is now a nationally to capture the heat of the sun, and other wildlife in general. l Sightings of Small Eggar can be submitted via the Yorkshire Moths Website www.yorkshiremoths. info/portal following the link to Moth Recording. The RSPB also have great information on gardening Thanks to you for wildlife www.rspb.org.uk THE North York Moors National Park Authority would like to say thank you to all those who play the National Lottery. The Park has received more than £5 million from

ADULT Ebor Images the Heritage Lottery Fund since 2013, including £2.8 million for the current Land of Iron project. This EDUCATION external funding helps support the Authority in its work to protect and conserve the habitats and heritage that make the North York Moors at the such a special place. Inspired by… gallery FOR the first time, the Inspired by… gallery at the Moors Whitby Abbey National Park Centre, Danby, WHITBY Abbey has now reopened is hosting a series of art appre- following a major project to ciation courses in partnership improve the visitor centre, museum with the renowned Workers’ and interpretation across the site. There is also a brand new coffee Educational Association (WEA). shop by the entrance. Visit the The WEA is a charity dedicated English Heritage website for more to bringing high-quality, professional information. education into the heart of communities and to adults from all walks of life. These full-day courses promise to be friendly, accessible New publications and enjoyable, and add to the THE 2019 edition of our exciting already wide-ranging and exciting free visitor magazine – Out and programme of workshops and About in the North York Moors – is events at the gallery during 2019. now available from National Park The WEA courses include: visitor centres and local outlets. NATIONAL PARK Also available is the Inspired by… • The Staithes Group – Artists’ gallery programme, detailing all our Colony, Fisherfolk & Inspiration exhibitions for the year ahead. (Saturday 22 June) • Railway Posters of the North York Moors and Coast OF THE YEAR (Saturday 6 July) • 20th Century Art Movements THE North York Moors has been voted National Park of the Year in the BBC (Saturday 13 July) Countryfile Magazine Awards 2019. • David Hockney’s Yorkshire The publication credited the that led to their creation. the effort and dedication that lie Landscapes peace and wild beauty of the region, These latest accolades follow a behind the titles. Volunteering and (Saturday 14 September) coupled with our rich human history, string of successes in recent years, Education in particular have seen a • Art in the 19th Century: strong literary connections, dark including our extremely long-standing flurry of achievements, and we are Realists and Romantics skies and stunning National Trail. Customer Service Excellence proud to say that we are now working What’s more, North Yorkshire was Award, which covers all areas of with more young people than we (Saturday 19 October) also voted Holiday Destination of the Authority’s work and has been have ever done, with many coming All courses cost £25, but are free the Year, beating competition from retained since 2010. The Authority from the 10% most deprived areas to those in receipt of means-tested Orkney and the Forest of Dean, and also held its predecessor, the Charter surrounding the Park. It’s our hope benefits. Participants must be aged giving cause for a double celebration. Mark, for 13 consecutive years that many of these individuals will 18 or over. For more information, It’s particularly nice to be before that. remain involved with the Authority or to book your place, please visit recognised this year, as National While awards are not what our and its work throughout their lives, the WEA website (www.wea.org.uk) Parks across the UK mark 70 years staff, volunteers and Members pursue, acting as ambassadors for the National since the 1949 Act of Parliament it’s always important to recognise Park in their own communities. or call 0300 3033464. Also new for 2019 are the Young Artists Workshops, suitable for 2017 Britain’s Favourite National Park – TripAdvisor children aged 7 to 12 years. These 2017 Cleveland Way Adoption Scheme wins ‘Best Project’ – National Parks UK Volunteer Awards Residents’ survey sessions focus on using the natural 2017 Caitlin McCauley wins ‘Young Person of the Year’ following her volunteering with the Education LOOK out for our residents’ survey world to inspire artistic creations, Team – National Parks UK Volunteer Awards coming out this Summer. Please and most cost £7.50 for two hours. 2018 Princess Royal Training Award do take the time to fill it in – your l For more information, visit the 2018 Apprentice Employer of the Year – National Apprenticeship Service feedback is really important to us. Inspired by…gallery pages of our 2019 National Park of the Year – BBC Countryfile Magazine Awards website, or call 01439 772738. The text of this newsletter is also available in large print. Tel: 01439 772700

Published by The North York Moors National Park Authority, The Old Vicarage, Bondgate, Helmsley, York YO62 5BP • Tel: 01439 772700 • Email: [email protected] Printed on recycled paper