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Free from artificial colours, flavours and preservatives FOODFOODThe MAGAZINEMAGAZINE Campaigning for safer, healthier food for all

Published by The Food Commission Issue 63 N October/December 2003 N £4.95 Salt:Salt: FSAFSA launcheslaunches food-by-foodfood-by-food strategystrategy

n a remarkable challenge to the food The salt composition proposals come in a the problem. The proposals cover most food I industry, the government’s Food mildly-worded consultation letter sent to some sectors, including take-away foods, ready Standards Agency (FSA) has told 35 industry and non-governmental bodies, meals, bread, pizza, snack foods, commercial manufacturers it wants to see 50% of the salt which asks that the proposals be seen only as soups, baked beans and burgers, although cut from bacon and ham, 60% cut from sauces a modelling exercise showing the amounts of certain categories are given zero reduction and 80% cut from canned vegetables. salt that would need to be removed if the targets because they contain little or no A total of 48 food categories are given average diet were to meet the recommended added salt. target reduction levels in the FSA proposal, target of just 6 grams of salt per day (adults). The targets would be tougher still if with an average salt reduction target of 32%. But the document follows a stakeholder industry were made to take full responsibility It is the first time any government agency in meeting which urged the FSA to consider for ensuring that the population target salt the world has specified the compositional setting compositional criteria for processed consumption levels are met. In fact, the FSA standards for the salt content of such a broad foods – and added that these could be set by model assumes that individuals will reduce range of processed foods, and represents the voluntary agreement or by statutory regulation. the salt they add voluntarily by 40%. first major step by the FSA towards becoming The threat of statutory regulation is a clear a serious player in public health nutrition indication to food companies that they must I Further details of the proposed salt policy. start becoming part of the solution, not part of reduction targets are given on page 7. Chuck Snacks off the Checkout!

he Food Commission has launched a A survey of major supermarkets has often at pushchair height, to put temptation T new campaign calling on shown that while many claim to have policies within easy reach. supermarkets, grocery stores and to keep checkouts, or a proportion of In a league table shown on page 14, we pharmacies to Chuck Snacks off the checkouts, free from fatty and sugary snacks, found that Waitrose was found had the most Checkout! It will be collecting statements and many still place displays at or near the tills, family-friendly checkouts, with no snacks experiences from people from across the displayed. However, Asda was found to be country to submit to retailers, in an the worst offender, with many effort to control this manipulative confectionery products displayed in marketing practice. easy reach of children. The move follows complaints One major confectionery from members of the Parents Jury manufacturer, Nestlé, estimates that snacks placed near the shop that if supermarkets went back to tills cause conflict between parents displaying confectionery routinely and children, with children in this way, an extra 15 million pestering for the products they see chocolate bars could be sold each displayed there. Many adults also year, adding thousands of report that they end up consuming kilograms of fat and sugar to the extra chocolate bars, sweets, crisps nation’s diet. and soft drinks that they would not otherwise have chosen, simply I To find out more about this new because the products are displayed campaign, see pages 11 to 14. where they have to queue up.

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editorial contents

News Time to kick ass! FSA launches salt strategy 1, 7 he Arnie Schwarzenegger effect appears to be firing the Hidden ads slammed 3 The Food Magazine is published quar- Pester power ad defended 3 blood of our pals at the Food Standards Agency. Not the terly by The Food Commission, a national BBC back-tracks on Tweenies food 3 non-profit organisation campaigning for T Terminator aspect, with several thousand Californian the right to safe, wholesome food. We employees being laid off to cut the budget, but the blunt acting Health rely entirely on our supporters, allowing us method – actions, not words. Sausages fattier than ever 4 to be completely independent, taking no After promising that it would turn its attention to nutrition, the subsidy from the government, the food US requires trans-fat labelling 5 industry or advertising. We aim to provide FSA remained silent for several months. Then, quietly, it issued a Krispy Kremes ‘do nought’ independently researched information on gentle proposal to set targets for the food industry on the amount for health 6 the food we eat to ensure good quality of salt they should be putting in processed food. The targets Publishers target tiny tastebuds 15 food for all. appear to be dramatic: 60% reduction in some products, even Lessons from the 1950s 16 80% in others. Milk... or sweets? 16 The Food Commission Research Charity Are children getting less active? 17 aims to relieve ill health and advance No official body has ever been so specific in setting public public education through research, health nutritional policy for such a wide range of processed GM education and the promotion of better foods. Let the food companies be served notice: these targets are quality food. Problems with patents 8 now a yardstick to measure the industry’s action. Public say ‘not yet’ to GM crops 9 And the press release for a recent FSA survey of sausages Director: Tim Lobstein Ministers undermine ‘GM free’ 9 Policy Officer: Kath Dalmeny featured two damning criticisms – the rising fat and salt levels in Campaigns & Research Officers: certain types of sausage – much to the annoyance of the food Food law Annie Seeley, Merav Shub industry. Misleading labels? Go to jail! 10 Office & Subscriptions Manager: So perhaps this new, muscular FSA will be equally active on Coca-Cola under legal fire 10 Ian Tokelove advertising to children. It funked the issue last year, and instead Administrative Officer: Graham Hood Checkout Information Officer: Mary Whiting called for a review of the academic evidence. Now it has New campaign: Chuck Snacks Assistant Research Officer: received the evidence (see www.food.gov.uk/multimedia/pdfs/ off the Checkout! 11-14 Marjon Willers foodpromotiontochildren1.pdf) and splashed the results all over Cartoons: Ben Nash its own publications, highlighting the five key conclusions: Agriculture G there is a lot of food advertising to children Trustees and Advisors: Trade talks break down 18 G Joanna Blythman, Dr Eric Brunner the advertised diet is less healthy than the recommended one Sustainability survey 18 Tracey Clunies-Ross, Peta Cottee, Prof G children enjoy and engage with food promotion Michael Crawford, Derek Cooper, Sue Dibb, G food promotion has an effect on children’s food preferences, Science Martine Drake, Alan Gear, Vicki Hird, Dr purchasing behaviour and consumption What the doctor reads 19 Mike Joffe, Robin Jenkins, Prof Tim Lang, G this effect is independent of other factors and operates at both Iona Lidington, Dr Alan Long, Jeanette Marketplace Longfield, Diane McCrae, Dr Erik Millstone, a brand and category level Books, posters, subscriptions 20 Dr Melanie Miller, Charlotte Mitchell, Dr It couldn’t be clearer. As several newspapers headlined: TV ads Mike Nelson, Dr Mike Rayner, Prof Aubrey Sheiham, Colin Tudge, Hugh Warwick, are making children fat. Books Simon Wright. Reviews of books and reports 21

I Issue 63 of the Food Magazine Oct– Feedback Dec 2003. ISSN 0953-5047. A dip into our mailbag 23 I Typesetting and design by Ian Tokelove of the Food Commission. Backbites I Printed on recycled paper by Rap/Spider On the lighter side… 24 Web, Oldham OL9 7LY. I Retail distribution by Central Books, 99 Wallis Road, London E9 5LN. I Unless otherwise indicated all items are copyright © The Food Commission The industry is furious – not just Badvertisements! (UK) Ltd 2003 and are not to be the food industry but the advertising reproduced without written permission. I This magazine takes no The views expressed in this magazine are agencies and the media that publishes the advertising. As we advertising for food products. not necessarily those of The Food suggest in Backbites (p24) this may prove impossible to overcome We believe that food Commission under the present Labour government with its close commercial ties. companies already promote The struggle will make for interesting viewing. It could even be their products too much. The Food Commission (UK) Ltd a script for a movie. We will keep you updated. 94 White Lion Street But we do like to expose Or as the big man says, Hasta la Vista, Baby! London N1 9PF food companies’ deceptive Telephone: 020 7837 2250 descriptions, silly statements Fax: 020 7837 1141 Advertising Policy. The Food Magazine does not accept and loopy labels. email: [email protected] commercial advertising. Loose inserts are accepted subject to So watch out for our ANTI- websites: www.foodcomm.org.uk approval – please contact Ian Tokelove at The Food Commission for ADVERTISEMENTS scattered www.parentsjury.org.uk details. Call 020 7837 2250 or email [email protected] through this magazine!

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news

Hidden ads slammed in US Pester power advert defended as ‘humorous’ The US campaign group Commercial Alert has before breaking for adverts one of the hosts formally complained to the government’s said, ‘But first I want to get a quick Coke’. An advert that encourages children to lie to Federal Communication Commission against Commercial Alert claims that embedded, their parents in order to persuade them to buy the failure by major TV companies to comply undeclared advertising fails to inform viewers Cheestrings has been defended by regulators with sponsorship identification requirements of the paid nature of product placements. The as ‘comedy’. This is despite advertising rules by hiding advertising in TV programmes. campaign group is calling for stronger that ban adverts from encouraging children to ABC, CBS, Fox, NBC and Disney are among sponsorship identification rules. ask their parents to buy a product. the companies accused of inserting branded In the meantime, US TV companies may be The TV and cinema advert shows a young products directly into programmes in return moving to eliminate completely all delineated boy pretending to have calcium deficiency in for fees, a practice known as product advertising breaks. Commercial Alert reports order to persuade his mother to run out to the placement. Yet the programme makers fail to a recent deal between Warner Brothers shops and buy the cheese product. The declare the sponsorship to viewers, which in Network and Pepsi Cola to launch a advertiser, Golden Vale Cheese Co., boasts on Commercial Alert’s view contradicts Section programmed tentatively titled Live From Right its children’s website that the advertising 317 of the US Communication Act. The Act Now that will have no advertisements – none campaign ‘shows a clever way to get your specifies that sponsorship should be that are recognisable as such, at least. parents to buy loads of Cheestrings!’ announced to viewers at the time the hidden The Food Commission submitted a advertisement is broadcast. I More details from complaint about the advert to the Independent Advertisers are keen to develop product www.commercialalert.org/ftc.pdf and Television Commission. We pointed out that placement, as viewers tend to avoid watching www.commercialalert.org/fcc.pdf the ITC’s own rules explicitly state that ad breaks, using the time to put the kettle on ‘Advertisements must not directly advise or or go to the toilet. Although product ask children to buy or to ask their parents or placement in programmes has been used in a others to make enquiries or purchases.’ We small way in the past, Commercial Alert also told the ITC that Cheestrings is a high fat reports that the level has risen markedly in and high salt product, containing 2.5g of salt recent years. In one episode of the US (more than the recommended daily amount for s

equivalent of Pop Idol, on the Fox network, e a small child in a single serving). This was not i g o

the three judges had Coca-Cola l mentioned in the advertisement. o p

branded cups in front of a The ITC defended the advert as ‘comedy’

h t each of them, the i and said, ‘The wider debate around encourag- w

, 3

green room was 0 ing lower fat / health foods is an issue for the 0 2

renamed the , Department of Health and parental responsi- w a

Coca-Cola Red h bility. As long as products are legally available, S

l

Room, and just e and the advertising doesn’t break our codes, a h c

i we cannot dictate which aspects of the M product commercials emphasise.’ BBC back-tracks on fast food but makes no promises

The Food Dudes show The BBC’s commercial arm, BBC Worldwide, Responding to parents’ concerns, the that cartoon has declared that it has ‘no further plans’ to BBC stated that promotions of healthier characters can use its cartoon characters such as the Tele- foods ‘like fruit, vegetables, bread, rice successfully tubbies and Tweenies to promote fast food, and fish have historically proved promote and that it will be reviewing its nutrition policy. harder to adapt to character use’. healthier foods. The announcement follows complaints However, the Food Commission has from the Food Commission and members of investigated several examples of the Parents Jury. Whilst the announcement is companies using cartoon characters to cautiously welcomed, careful reading of BBC promote healthier food to children, toddler food) and Worldwide’s statement shows that it does not including the Food Dudes Mums4 (makers of sugar- explicitly rule out future promotions. (www.fooddudes.com), Winnie-the-Pooh free yoghurts for children), both A recent Food Commission survey found stickers on fruit in Waitrose, Noddy milk, and of which successfully sell their products in that all foods that carry the Tweenies new salt-free toddler products from Buxton mainstream supermarkets, attended the characters were either high in salt, sugar, fat Foods using Peter Rabbit imagery. These meeting in September. It seemed very positive and/or saturated fat. While the BBC argued demonstrate that such techniques can indeed and productive. Further discussions will take that some of these foods were ‘treat’ foods, be a viable business option. place in November. many are everyday meal products such as After receiving critical press coverage, The Food Commission and Parents Jury are yoghurt or tinned pasta shapes in tomato BBC Worldwide contacted the Food hoping to see the BBC lead the way in sauce. And with so many core children’s Commission to arrange a meeting. promoting healthier food to children, using foods being salty, sugary and/or fatty it is Kath and Annie from the Food Commission influential characters such as the Fimbles, difficult for parents to differentiate between and Parents Jury, together with represen- Teletubbies and Tweenies. We have our ‘treat foods’ and ‘everyday’ foods. tatives from Buxton Foods (makers of salt-free fingers crossed!

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surveys

Premium sausages The search for a fattier than ever healthy sausage The Food Commission went searching for a healthy, low fat sausage, but found that manufacturers are unable to agree on how to A new survey of sausages Such fatty sausages would provide between a describe the fat content of their sausages. finds that the highest quarter and a third of an adult’s entire It should be easy enough: how much fat maximum recommended fat intake for the day does this sausage contain? But if you asked quality ‘premium’ lines have in just one portion. The FSA defines a portion the same question of Sainsbury, Iceland or risen in fat content from as two regular sausages, around 115g raw or Walls you would get a different answer – even 80g after cooking. if the product was identical. 15% to 21% since a previous If you want to cut the fat, choose products Some producers tell you the fat per 100g as survey in 1991. Salt levels in that specifically claim to be low in fat. The sold raw. Others don’t give the raw value, but lowest levels were in sausages claiming that give the amount of fat left in a sausage that standard products have also they had less than 5% fat, including products has been grilled, or fried, or ‘shallow fried’ or increased. from Asda, Tesco, Safeway and Bowyers. even ‘cooked as instructed’. Salt levels increased in standard sausages, And some give the amount per sausage, ust as the barbecue season came to an from 2.2g per portion in 1991 to 2.4g this year. but the sausage size can vary from a chipolata J end, the Food Standards Agency (FSA) However the low-fat sausages were also at around 30g up to 100g ‘jumbo’. published the details of its year-long lower in salt, typically under 1.8g per portion. If the manufacturers wanted to make it survey of sausages*, showing that hard to compare products, they could hardly manufacturers seem determined to increase do better. It would be much easier for our fat and salt consumption. Worst offenders salt content customers if a standard method were used. Premium quality sausages, with over 70% Richmond Irish Recipe 2.8% meat content, were typically over 20% fat. Confused? Perhaps that’s Among the fattiest were: Walls Thick Pork 2.3% what they want! Sainsbury’s Pork 2.3% Fattiest premium sausages fat content Tesco Pork and Beef 2.2% Manufacturers fail to give comparable Asda Aberdeen Angus Beef 33% values for fat content, making it impossible Iceland Pork and Beef 2.2% for consumers to work out which are the Co-op Butchers 8 Select Pork 30% healthier sausages: Tesco Vegetarian Lincolnshire 2.2% Marks & Spencer Premium Pork 28% fat content is given for Linda McCartney vegetarian 2.1% Safeway Olde English Style Pork 26% Belchers raw * FSA Programme of mini-surveys: sausages Bernard Matthews per 100g raw survey (41/03) September 2003. Bernard Matthews per sausage cooked Bowyers raw Cooking the figures Holland & Barrett meat-free raw Iceland fresh grilled Companies that only give post-cooking figures gain an advantage over those that Iceland frozen 1 shallow fried give figures for raw sausages, as some of Iceland frozen 2 fried the fat is lost in cooking. Iceland frozen 3 cooked Average fat content Iceland frozen 4 grilled Raw 23.2% Marks & Spencer raw Baked 19.9% Label chaos Quorn meat-free raw The label on these Sainsbury’s Organic Barbecued 18.1% Pork Sausages gives no fat content for the Richmond Irish Recipe raw Fried 20.8% raw product, but says the sausages are 26% Sainsbury most sorts grilled fat when ‘cooked as instructed’. The Grilled 19.9% instructions offer two cooking methods Sainsbury Organic cooked (grilling 12-15 mins, baking 30-40 mins). Pricked and grilled 18.9% The pack claims 95% meat, which implies Tesco raw that a generous level of fat can be Walls raw described as ‘meat’.

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health FDA requires trans-

fat labelling US portions of trans-fat Trans-fat Trans-fat as in a portion % total fat French fries 7.8g 29% The American Food and Drug propensity to raise blood cholesterol levels Doughnut 5.0g 27% Administration has told food and increase the risk of heart disease. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA), Cake 4.3g 26% companies that from January the American government’s food legislation Potato chips (crisps) 3.2g 29% 2006 they must declare on body, estimates that the new regulation will cost industry a one-off figure of $140-$250 Cream biscuits 1.9g 31% the label the amount of million for analysis, labelling and Cooking fat 4.2g 32% trans-fat in their products. reformulation. Against this the FDA estimates Hard margarine 2.8g 25% But UK consumers will still that labelling could prevent 600-1,200 heart attacks annually, saving 250-500 lives, with an Soft margarine 0.6g 9% be denied this information. annual saving of $0.9-$1.8 billion in medical costs, lost productivity and pain and suffering. Source: FDA website www.csfan.fda.gov ollowing nearly a decade of campaign- Although a welcome move to provide more F ing and petitioning by our American consumer information, the new rules will not cousins at the Center for Science in the require declarations of less than 0.5 grams of The UK Food Standards Agency gives little Public Interest, and following a recent legal trans-fat in a serving, and there is no change help on how to avoid eating trans-fats, except case brought against Kraft Foods for failing to to the exemption for certain foods – notably to note that the ingredients list should mention warn purchasers of Oreo biscuits of the trans- fast food, restaurant meals, and food sold ‘hydrogenated vegetable fat’ (or oil) or fat content, the US becomes the first country loose – from bearing any nutrition labelling. ‘partially hydrogenated vegetable fat’. But in in the world to bring in a new labelling rule This is a major loophole, as US food composition the UK, like the USA, there are no labels or requiring declaration of the trans-fat in foods. tables show the largest quantities of trans-fats ingredients lists put on deep-fried fast foods, Trans-fats are found naturally in some dairy are found in portions of deep-fried potatoes canteen pastry-based foods or loose-sold and animal products but are also created when and doughnuts, neither of which need to bear cakes, pies and doughnuts, yet these are likely vegetable or marine oils are hydrogenated, a nutrition labels. to be major sources of trans-fats in the diet. process which solidifies the oil and reduces its Labelling trans-fat – if such labelling ever liability to become rancid, extending its shelf ...And in the UK? arrives in Europe – would be only part of the life. Hydrogenated oils are produced in block answer. From a public-health perspective, the or pellet form, and are waxy to touch but UK consumption of trans-fats is a shade lower sooner industry ceases to use these artificial combine with flour to make products such as than that in the US. Average daily intake in the fats the sooner our health will improve. biscuits and pastries that can stay fresh-tasting UK was 4g (women) and 5.6g (men) in the late Although no figures have been estimated for months. Hydrogenated oils are also popular 1980s compared with an average of 5.8g for for UK heart disease caused by trans-fats, one with fast food sellers for deep-fat frying. American adults in the 1990s. UK data for 2001 Dutch study has suggested that elimination of A series of reports from the US Institute of suggest there has been a fall in trans-fat most of the hydrogenated oils from the food Medicine, the US National Academy of consumption as manufacturers have started supply would cut Sciences and other expert committees have to find alternative ingredients. deaths from heart upheld the The UK’s Food Standard Agency says disease by over 20%. view that bluntly ‘Trans-fats have no known nutritional In the UK that could trans-fats benefits and because of the effect they have prevent over 12,000 should be on blood cholesterol, they increase the risk of premature deaths a considered coronary heart disease. Evidence suggests year just by removing as risky as the effects of trans-fats are worse than this one ingredient saturated saturated fats.’ from our diets. fats in their

No cheers Indigestive here. Most biscuits? cereals don’t Around 80 grams have added of ‘partially fat, but A King-Size dose – we hydrogenated Nestlé puts nearly 3% estimate some 5% of pure vegetable oil’ in this hydrogenated trans-fat (over 4g) in this Twix pack of biscuits – but vegetable fat in every pack. exactly how much bowlful of Cheerios. of that is trans-fat?

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health

Krispy Kremes There is another way… Schools and communities can find healthier ways to raise money. Schemes like Abel & Cole’s Farmers Choice vegetable and fruit ‘do nought’ for health box schemes can provide money for schools in exchange for using the school as a collection point for boxes of locally grown organic produce. America’s latest export community groups, in which doughnuts will be to Britain contains up available at half price for resale, with the profits kept by the fundraisers. By its nature, to a quarter of your this marketing is likely to appeal to schools day’s maximum fat and communities that are strapped for cash and whose Parent-Teacher Associations are intake in every portion. desperately seeking ways to pay for school Annie Seeley joined the equipment and educational materials. However, the typical schoolchild already eats queue in Harrods for the unhealthy levels of sugar and fat, and low- UK launch of Krispy income communities often suffer the highest incidence of obesity, heart disease and Under the Abel & Cole scheme 25% of the Kremes doughnuts. diabetes, in large part due to unhealthy diets. price of the box goes to the school – it The US website for Krispy Kreme says its suggests a school can raise £150 for a one- arrods at 9.00am was teeming with PR strategy provides a ‘sweet profit for your hour weekly operation handing out 50 boxes. H people, film crews and photographers, school or organisation’ and boasts of the The scheme is run on a not-for-profit basis. all ready to witness the UK launch of computers, books, trips, uniforms and much Krispy Kremes. more bought with the ‘dough’ that schools can I Contact Abel & Cole, tel 020 7737 5217, Dubbed by the media ‘the heart attack with raise by selling Krispy Kreme doughnuts. [email protected] a hole’, the first UK customer (who had That’s just the start. In the US the queued for nearly 12 hours) won a year’s company’s Sweet Reward programme supply of Krispy Kreme doughnuts – that’s 24 provides teachers with a doughnut poster and doughnuts every week for a year. ‘success sprinkles’ for students to decorate Taking nutrition information from the the poster as they reach their goals. company’s US website, this will provide nearly Teachers can then trade the completed 400,000 kcalories, over 28 kgs of sugar and 20 poster at their local participating Krispy Kreme kg of fat, one quarter of which is saturated fat. store for 24 doughnuts, and reward their class According to the company, the doughnuts for ‘Sticking With It!’ are not a fast food because they are not a Alternatively, teachers can opt for the meal replacement. But as a snack they are Good Grades Programme where primary likely to be eaten in addition to meals, adding pupils receive a free doughnut for each ‘A’ on extra calories, fat and sugar to daily diets and their report card, up to six per grading period. replacing healthier foods. But that’s in America. It couldn’t happen As part of its marketing drive, the company here… could it? is planning ‘fundraising breakfasts’ for

Krispy Kremes have awarded one ‘lucky’ customer 24 free doughnuts a week for a year. This is the equivalent of an extra half kilo of sugar and 400g of fat every week. Annie, our resident nutritionist, makes the point in her stylish new Krispy Kremes t-shirt and hat.

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health

Nestlé Salt Awareness Industry told: cut salt Campaign shifts responsibility to consumers

by a third Nestlé has launched a new ‘Salt Awareness Campaign’ in conjuction with the British Heart The government’s Food Standards Agency Foundation (BHF). (FSA) has challenged the food industry to The FSA’s main targets Packets of Shredded Wheat prominently remove the salt it adds to processed foods by This table shows the food groups identified display the BHF logo and repeat some an average of 32%, and in some products by in the FSA model as needing to reduce the standard health advice on salt, including the as much as 80%. most salt if the target adult intake of 6 warning that ‘It In the first-ever proposals for setting grams per day is to be achieved. can be difficult to official compositional standards for the salt work out where content of a wide range of processed foods, Salt to go the salt is in your the FSA has drawn up a model of what we are diet – it’s often in Pizza 30% currently eating, including the salt in each foods which you category of food, the target levels of salt we White bread 26% would not expect should eat, and hence the amount of salt that Wholemeal bread 28% to contain a should be cut from each category to achieve Crumpets, muffins, granary 42% lot of salt’. improvements in public health. Perhaps In its covering notes, the FSA reassures Bought sandwiches 30% Nestlé is referring manufacturers that these figures represent Breakfast cereals 36% to the high levels average levels, not maximum levels, and that Buns, pastries, cakes 30% of salt it adds to they represent only one way to meet the almost every Cheese 29% target and so are not a fixed proposal. other cereal However, the implication is clear: this is the Egg dishes 31% brand it sells? road down which the FSA intends to travel Fat spreads 45% (see table below) and companies would do well to show a Bacon and ham 50% With an annual willingness to participate. turnover of £1.8 billion in the UK alone, Nestlé Burgers and kebabs 40% The FSA has suggested that its next piece could make a real contribution to public health of work will be to specify maximum levels for Sausages 43% if it reduced the salt levels in its cereal brands. each food category, a move which would Meat pies 35% But it seems that Nestlé refuse to accept provide the stepping stone towards statutory Fish products 33% responsibility for the salt which it adds to controls and the identification of products that breakfast cereals. This new ‘Salt Awareness exceed the maximum levels. Canned vegetables 81% Campaign’ effectively passes the buck to the The Food Commission welcomes these Baked beans 36% consumer, who must search the small-print proposals but urges the FSA to consider Crisps and snacks 40% for sodium levels if they wish to reduce their making the targets even steeper so that less salt intake. Hot chocolate, Horlicks 68% of the burden for making cuts falls on Unsurprisingly, Nestlé’s high salt cereal individual consumers adding salt at the table. Soup 55% brands carry no details of the campaign and At present the industry is expected to cut their Cook-in and pasta sauces 60% no health warning about excessive salt use by 32% and consumers to cut the amount Table sauces 34% consumption. added at table by 40%. We would like to see Meat ready meals 38% the industry held liable for a far greater proportion of the total cut required. Fish ready meals 33% Nestlé’s Salt Awareness Campaign It will also be interesting to see if the FSA Take-away dishes (meat) 33% fails to highlight its high salt cereals will consider extending such an approach to Take away dishes (veg) 42% cover other damaging ingredients in processed Nestlé cereal Sodium Is this high foods, such as saturated fat and sugar. per 100g or low salt?* Golden Nuggets 0.5g High Badvertisement Clusters 0.5g High Sugar good for the teeth? Shreddies 0.5g High Cookie Crisp 0.6g High This new product from Nestlé claims that 'Nesquik Fresh is a great way to get kids to Cinnamon Grahams 0.7g High drink more fresh milk... Calcium for strong Cheerios 0.8g High teeth and bones.' However, this product is product is 6% sugar, Monsters Inc 0.8g High not as fresh as Nestlé likes to make out. It is and note that the made with 'high-temperature pasteurised' cartoon on the label Golden Grahams 1.0g High milk, which gives this ‘fresh’ product a 21 day encourages children shelf life. And what about the claim that it is to consume this drink * According to Food Standards Agency criteria: good 'for strong teeth'? We estimate this three times a day. 0.5g or more of sodium per 100g is ‘a lot’

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GM Problems with patents

Tom MacMillan of the Patents would mean that farmers had to pay productive, then competitors in poor for seeds each time they used them – the countries, many already teetering on the edge Food Ethics Council same as for other farm inputs – not just once. of survival, may lose out. Research into examines intellectual Although industrialised countries already technologies that poor farmers really need, had some IP protection for plant breeders, the which they can use and exchange for free, is property rights, patents situation changed markedly with the arrival of diminishing. The rise of bio-patenting, and food production. genetic engineering in the 1980s. Judges and combined with funding cut-backs for the policy-makers decided that the processes and public sector, is leaving little room for products of modern biotechnology counted as research with free, public benefits. ost of us are branded by the food inventions. Smelling huge profits, private invest- The advantages of bio-patents to non- M we eat. We trust certain brands to ors stampeded into agricultural biotechnology. farmers are also questionable. Even when provide healthy, tasty food, although The countries and companies that stand to patenting works, it can only encourage there may be others we avoid, perhaps gain most from biotechnology are now inventions that sell. Those are not always the because we regard them as unethical or pressing for all governments to allow bio- same as the things people feel they need unhealthy. Brands are big business, supported patenting. The pressure is mainly being even though, like the farmers, they may end by massive advertising spends and protected applied through the World Trade Organization up buying them. The widespread opposition to by trademarks. (WTO). Its Agreement on Trade-Related GM crops in the UK and internationally shows A trademark is a legal device that gives the Aspects of Intellectual Property Rights (TRIPS) how far patenting and the pursuit of profit can holder ownership of a marketing idea that sets minimum levels of IP protection, including diverge from the public interest, as the public anyone could otherwise copy. It is probably for plants and animals, that can be enforced perceive it. the most obvious form of 'intellectual property' through sanctions. As a result, many poor For the IP bargain to work out in the (IP) protection to affect food. Others include countries are strengthening protection for public's favour, serious changes are needed copyrights (on a cookery book, for example) plants or introducing it for the first time. to international rules. Most importantly, the and geographical indications (such as Parma This may not be in their or in our best process of making the rules should be fairer, ham), intended to protect regional specialities. interests. Bio-patenting has led to a surge in more open, and include smallholder farmers Yet there are also forms of IP that we do patent applications. Because researchers and poor communities. Knowing the not see in the shops, which affect how food is need permission from the holder of each difference between the hidden IP ingredients produced and, hence, what we can eat. patent they use, many scientists are worried in food production, understanding their Patents are the most important of these that the sheer number of patents on basic implications for firms, farmers and other hidden ingredients. In principle, patents biological processes grid-locks real invention players, is a crucial part of opening up this privatise knowledge that would otherwise be in agriculture. Since owners charge royalties, 'social bargain' to include all of society. free, thus providing an incentive for invention, it also makes research more expensive – too benefiting the public in the long run. For a expensive, often, for the public sector. I The Food Ethics Council report TRIPS with fixed time, normally 20 years, a patent-holder As for whether the patented inventions are everything? Intellectual property and the farming can charge royalties to anyone who uses their useful, that rather depends who you are. If you world can be downloaded at: invention. Patents are a kind of social bargain. are a farmer, argues the biotech industry, then www.foodethics- Although people sometimes talk about patent you would only pay for patent inputs each year council.org 'rights', they are actually a privilege that can if they were worth the money. Hence, they be withdrawn if it is not in the public interest. say, the fact that many US farmers are using Engineering Until recently, patents were not a big deal patented GM crops is proof in itself that the Nutrition, the in food production. You could not patent the inventions are worth it. But in practice, farmers latest report bare necessities of production, like cows or may buy the new technology because they from The Food potatoes, even though you could patent the have no real choice – just ten firms supply a Ethics Council, plough and the peeler. One of the reasons third of the world's seed market. Patented GM can also be animals and plants did not count as inventions seed may also be offered at a similar or even downloaded was that, unlike tractors or pesticides, they cheaper price than regular seed – to ensure from their could reproduce themselves on the farm, that the market is rapidly expanded. website. without scientists or factories. But that also If the new patented inputs are good for the made strong IP protection even more valuable farmers who can afford them, then they may to people in the business of breeding and be bad for the ones who cannot. If farmers in selling animals and, even more so, plants. the US and other rich countries become more

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GM

Public say ‘not Campaigners aim to shock yet’ to GM crops If you find this image of a genetically modified woman shocking, that is because the New Zealand campaign group that designed it is The nationwide debate on genetically modified meetings. GM Nation was launched on 3 June, aiming to re-awaken the public to the nature of (GM) crops has found that most people are with a deadline for submissions of 18 July – a genetic-engineering. MAdGE (Mothers Against ‘cautious, suspicious or outright hostile about woefully inadequate time period for our Genetic Engineering in Food & the Environment) GM crops’. The debate, coordinated by the members to find out about and attend debate launched this controversial billboard Agricultural, Environment and Biotechnology meetings, let alone organise their own local advertising campaign in October ‘to provoke Commission (AEBC), found: events. Through our website, we encouraged public debate about the ethics of genetic G People in the UK are generally uneasy our members to participate in the public engineering in New Zealand’. about GM; debate – whatever their individual views on G The more people find out about GM issues, the merits or otherwise of GM crops. If a the more intense their concerns; public debate required the engagement of the G There is little support for early public, why is a membership organisation that commercialisation of GM crops; encourages its members to take part accused G There is widespread public mistrust of of ‘hijacking’?’ government and of multinational In releasing their report of public opinion, companies involved in GM; the AEBC and the government’s Department of G People generally want to know more and Food and Rural Affairs (DEFRA) were fully want more research to be done. aware that the findings would be contentious. The ads depict a naked, genetically The debate also found that most people A note from the press officer makes engineered woman with four breasts being wished there was an independent agency, free entertaining reading. Among plans for the milked by a milking machine, with ‘GE’ branded from outside influence, to provide trustworthy press launch, one paragraph stands out: ‘I’ll be on her rear. information and advice. inviting all our regular correspondents from MadGE reports that New Zealand’s largest The biotechnology industry reacted the broadcast media, the nationals and the science company, AgResearch, is currently vehemently to the findings. The Agricultural magazines. I won’t be inviting representatives splicing human genes into cows in the hope of Biotechnology Council (ABC, not to be from the NGOs* etc but we’ll let them in – as creating new designer milks, but that ‘the confused with the independent AEBC), stated last time – on the understanding that they sit at ethics of such experiments have not even been that ‘of the 37,000 feedback forms received, up the back and keep quiet.’ discussed by the wider public’. A moratorium to 79% of them [were] orchestrated by However, in the event, it was the industry on genetic-engineering has also been lifted. campaign groups’. The ABC is a front organ- bodies that caused the trouble with their Fonterra, New Zealand’s largest milk isation for the biotechnology companies BASF, accusations of vote-rigging. company Fonterra recently purchased patent Bayer CropScience, Syngenta, Dow rights to large amounts of human DNA from an AgroSciences, DuPont and Monsanto. * Non-Governmental Organisation, usually a Australian genetics company. MAdGE is One of the organisations accused of such not-for-profit group working on public-interest calling for reassurance from Fonterra that they ‘orchestration’ was the National Federation of issues such as health or the environment. will never use human genes in cows to boost Women’s Institutes (NFWI), which responded: milk production. ‘Even if they had wished to do so, WI members I For more information about the public could not have hijacked public debate debate, see: www.gmpublicdebate.org I For more details, see: www.madge.net.nz Government ministers undermine ‘GM free’ status

Environment Secretary Margaret Beckett has and should seek to balance the interests of all argued for the ban to protect organic expressed support for new European rules farmers.’ agriculture, as well as safeguard plant and that would end the right of local councils and The letter specifically referred to the EU's animal genetic resources from contamination districts to opt for ‘GM-free’ status. proposal to stop governments imposing GM- by GM material. In a series of letters reported in the free areas. Several County Councils in the UK UK ministerial support for such measures Sunday Times, she summarised proposed have already voted for ‘GM-free’ status, can perhaps be explained, in the current global- rules, drafted by the European Commission including Cornwall, Devon and counties in political climate, by a revealing comment from (EC), as stating that ‘no form of agriculture Wales. In September, Brighton joined the Trade and Industry Secretary Patricia Hewitt. (conventional, organic, GM) should be growing number of local authorities taking a In a written reply to Margaret Beckett, she excluded from the EU’. She went on to similar stance. stated: ‘I agree that our interests are best comment, ‘Our interests are best served by However, the EC appears set on removing served by giving broad support to the Commis- giving broad support to the Commission guide- this opportunity. In a landmark case which sion guidelines. We must also bear in mind the lines. They also reflect the general principles indicates its attitude to regional decision- potential impact [on] EU-US relations.’ that I envisage we will want to apply – i.e., making on GM, it has refused a plea by the that any co-existence measures should be Upper Austria region to outlaw GM crops for I For more information about ‘GM-free’ evidence-based, practical and proportionate, three years. The regional government had status, see: www.gmfreebritain.com

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food law

no damages payments, Ribena bottles now Misleading labels? give guidance to parents on how to use Ribena to minimise damage to children’s teeth. Whether or not public-interest lawyers in Go to jail! the UK follow a similar legal approach to the US, British children (and adults) are likely to benefit from the effects of successful lawsuits A civil lawsuit, primarily aimed at reducing stating the fat and calorie content of a ‘Pirate’s in the US. Ruffled by the litigative mood in the obesity, has resulted in a 15-month prison Booty’ snack. Similar lawsuits are still pending US, many manufacturers are already exploring sentence for a US food manufacturer found against Smucker’s, a US jam and snack manu- ways to reduce damaging ingredients such as guilty of making false claims about the fat facturer, and the fast food chain Pizza Hut. trans-fats and salt in their foods, especially content of his doughnuts, biscuits and rolls. ‘This new movement will use a wide those aimed at children. Kraft has also The manufacturer declared that the variety of legal actions – including individual announced that it will stop marketing in doughnuts contained 3g of fat and 135 calories and class-action lawsuits, criminal schools and control portion sizes of its each, but tests revealed that they contained complaints, and regulatory approaches – to processed foods. Many of these and other 18g of fat and 530 calories. The ruling has fight against obesity, just as we were so reformulated products are also sold in the UK. been hailed as a landmark by American successful in using many legal approaches Legal cases may provide the impetus to public-health lawyers exploring ways to exert against the problem of smoking,’ says John change which neither ‘industry guidelines’ nor pressure on manufacturers as part of efforts Banzhaf, a law professor from George ‘voluntary codes of practice’ have achieved. to reduce the US epidemic of obesity. Washington University Law School who was The American legal system allows ‘class one of the driving forces behind litigation I For full details of the US lawsuits, see: actions’, in which a group of individuals can sue against tobacco companies. He has now http://banzhaf.net/obesitylinks a company for damages, with the ruling apply- turned his attention to food. He explains, ing to future litigants who can prove they were ‘Legislation is better than litigation, but Fast food fights back affected by the same malpractice. So rulings lawyers will continue to litigate for change in have greater significance to companies than the food industry until legislators do what they The US food industry has reacted to in the UK, where rulings apply only to the should be doing about obesity.’ lawsuits by funding a campaign group that individuals (or group) who bring the case. Banzhaf reports that virtually every major feigns as a consumer watchdog. Paid for by Rulings also send clear signals to other food fast-food company has now announced American fast food restaurants, ‘Consumer manufacturers to provide healthy options and changes that may reduce their legal liability, Freedom’ places to shape up on marketing and food labelling. by providing warnings, more information on adverts in the Earlier this year, the threat of a US class- labels, and menus with improved nutritional national press action lawsuit led multinational food manufac- profiles or added healthy options. and on TV, telling turer Kraft to agree to remove trans-fat from Similar legal approaches have already people that health its popular Oreo cookies. And another public- been explored in the UK. In the 1980s, several campaigners are interest lawsuit has been credited for prompt- parents investigated the possibility of suing interfering with ing a decision to remove sugar-sweetened Ribena for the effect of the drink on their freedom by daring soft drinks from all schools in New York City. children’s teeth. The campaign group Action & to suggest that In earlier US legal cases, McDonald's paid Information on Sugars reported that the case most fast food over $12 million to settle a civil lawsuit for had the potential to be successful, but was contains too failing to disclose the beef fat in its chips, and dropped only when it was found that individual much fat, sugar the company Robert's American Gourmet paid damages payments would be insufficient to and salt. $3 million after being found guilty of under- warrant Legal Aid. Whilst the children received Coca-Cola under fire for misleading marketing

Coca-Cola has agreed to pay $21 million consumer health protection laws. In July 2003, is specified that ‘food shall not be placed on (around £13 million) to Burger King after it was a Brazilian Public Attorney called Joäo Lopes the market if it is unsafe’, and ‘food shall be discovered that the soft-drinks giant had Guimaräes filed public-interest lawsuits against deemed to be unsafe if it is considered to be reportedly rigged test-marketing to make its Coca-Cola and a second soft drink company injurious to health’ (Article 14). It continues ‘In product appear to be popular with the public. Ambev-Pepsi –which together account for determining whether any food is unsafe, regard The test-marketing took place in Virginia, 66% of Brazil’s soft-drink sales. The suit aims shall be had… to the information provided to USA, in March 2000, with Burger King giving to compel these companies to stop marketing the consumer, including information on the away coupons with its meals for a free drink aimed at children and to warn consumers of label, or other information generally available called Frozen Coke. Executives from Coca- the risks of excessive sugar consumption. to the consumer concerning the avoidance of Cola allegedly paid a consultant to buy thou- The lawsuits are based in Federal Brazilian specific adverse health effects from a sands of Burger King meals in order to make consumer protection law, under which particular food or category of foods.’ the marketing experiment look successful. manufacturers are obliged to warn consumers This is ambiguous when it comes to The pay-out was revealed in a document of potential damage caused by goods, and children, who might not reasonably under- made public by Burger King. A federal may not induce consumers to adopt a stand a nutritional panel or ingredients list. It investigation into the matter is now underway. behaviour that may damage health. does at least imply a need for health warnings Meanwhile, in Brazil, Coca-Cola is set to Curiously, under EU law (Regulation EC No. on soft drinks. Anyone got a few thousand face a legal suit filed under Brazilian 178/2002), which is fully applicable in the UK, it pounds for us to take out a test case?

Food Magazine 63 10 Oct/Dec 2003 FM63-7_MH.qxd 11/11/08 09:25 Page 11 CHECKOUT A new Food Commission campaign will call for supermarkets, grocery stores and pharmacies to stop displaying snacks at the checkouts, and to put such products out of temptation’s reach. Chuck Snacks off the Checkout!

t the end of a shopping trip, children many stores are now displaying soft drinks often nag their parents for the sweets, and crisps as well as chocolate and ‘Safeway has recently re- A introduced chocolates and chocolates, crisps and soft drinks confectionery at or near the checkouts. In a displayed at the checkout. Such tempting new development, such products are now sweets at the checkout. It's displays are deliberately placed where also displayed in pharmacies, where families hard work saying no at customers are a ‘captive market’ as they also regularly shop. end of a shopping trip’ queue up to pay, activating pester power and One extra bar of chocolate picked up at the Mother of two, from Limpsfield in Surrey increasing sales of snack products. checkout can provide around 280 kcalories, Such displays may also tempt adults to buy 40g of sugar and 6g of saturated fat. For an ‘Sweets at supermarket and eat snacks that they would not normally adult woman such a 'treat' would provide 15% choose, adding a hefty dose of calories, fat of her recommended maximum intake of checkouts often leads to and/or sugar to their diet. Retailers and calories. For a 10-year-old boy it would rows, disappointed grocery stores recognise that most provide nearly three quarters of his maximum children and guilty mums’ Mother of two, from Cambridge confectionery purchases are made ‘on recommended intake of sugar and about a impulse’ and therefore ensure that products third of his maximum daily recommended are placed exactly where that impulse can intake of saturated fat.* Not only do our teeth ‘Chocolate is always next best be triggered. One major chocolate suffer, but unhealthy doses of calories, fat and to the till which only manufacturer, Nestlé, estimates that if every sugar are also showing up around our upsets kids when we have to supermarket displayed chocolate at their waistlines. say no’ checkouts, total chocolate sales would Removing calorie-dense, sugary, fatty and Mother of two, from Cumbria increase by 15 million bars per year in the UK. salty snacks from checkouts is just one small Following numerous complaints from measure that retailers to take to help address members of the Food Commission’s Parents these public health problems. ‘I hate how supermarkets Jury, the Food Commission has launched a display sweets at toddler new campaign to Chuck level at checkouts’ Snacks off the Checkout! If you have trouble finding a checkout in Marks & Spencer just look Mother of one, from Essex Ten years ago, a similar for the confectionery – you’ll usually find a cashier behind it! campaign was run by community dietitian Iona Lidington, focusing on the Chuck snacks damage caused to teeth by frequent consumption of off the check- sugary confectionery. During that campaign, out! Tesco, Sainsbury and Safeway all agreed to stop displaying sweets at their checkouts. But since that time, new types of store have opened, new products have been launched, marketing has become ever more sophisticated, and

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chuck snacks off the checkout! What supermarkets say .... and what manufacturers say.

ecognising that family conflict is R often caused by snacks displayed at the checkout, some Booths Marks & supermarkets keep their checkouts ‘Sweets Super- Spencer snack-free as a matter of policy. and chocolates are displayed at child level so markets Marks & Spencer said However, many supermarkets continue to they can actually reach them. It is harder not that as part of its ‘major display snacks at their checkouts, on to buy them once they have touched them’ Booths Customer Care Initiative aisle-ends near where people queue, in Mother of two, from Supermarkets all M&S stores have a dump-bins beside the tills, or even in Gloucestershire stated that ‘we minimum of 20% till specially designed mini-fridges. are not one of points with non- The Food Commission wrote to the those confectionery items … major supermarkets, requesting details of supermarkets These till points are their policy about stocking snacks at the who specifically clearly signposted to checkout. Here are some of the stock products assist customer choice.’ responses we received: low down, within The retailer also children’s reach.’ stated that because it is I More supermarket checkout policies It also stated that, committed to the High are available on the Parents Jury web- ‘Where possible, Street. ‘shelf space is site: www.parentsjury.org.uk. we would rather always at a premium’ so sell magazines ‘confectionery fits well than sweets. In in the slip units our Ulverston alongside the till points. store, for This allows more room Morrisons example, every Morrisons told us that it offers ‘a range of products from our checkouts, based on customer elsewhere to show more other checkout is bulky ranges such as demand and convenience. We take a responsible approach and where sweets and snacks sweet free.’ are available it will be a very small selection only, merchandised in specific area and does not produce and bread.’ include soft drinks.’

ASDA ASDA, the worst offender in our survey of supermarkets stocking snacks at the checkout (see page 14) has so far made ‘no comment’.

Safeway Safeway responded to say that, ‘Our policy is that generally we do not stock snacks and sweets at the checkout. The main exception to this policy is that at certain times of the year (e.g. Christmas, Easter, Mother's Day), one in four of our checkouts may stock products, including snacks and sweets, that relate to that promotion.’ Safeway stressed that ‘only one in four of our checkouts would stock these products giving parents the opportunity to choose one of the many other checkouts that stock other items such as magazines, films or batteries.’

Waitrose Waitrose has a commendable checkout policy: ‘We do not merchandise items which could be considered an impulse purchase such as sweets and chocolates at our checkouts. As well as providing an uncluttered environment for shoppers, we believe customers appreciate the fact we do not distract their children at checkouts, which could lead to so-called pester power.’

Co-op The Co-op told us that it ‘prohibits the display of child-targeted products which are high in fat, sugar or salt at our traditional-style supermarket checkouts were children may exert ‘pester power’ whilst waiting for parents to queue and pay for grocery.’ However, the final paragraph of their letter stated that they had ‘recently acquired a large number of stores and that operationally, conformance with all our policies in these stores may take some time to achieve.’

Food Magazine 63 12 Oct/Dec 2003 FM63-7_MH.qxd 11/11/08 09:25 Page 13 s off the checkout! . and what manufacturers say.

he food industry often argues that food marketing is only carried out to Nestlé Rowntree T Nestlé Rowntree recently stated that ‘with 70% encourage brand switching rather than increasing category sales (and therefore the of confectionery bought on impulse retailers amount eaten). A similar argument was used should aim to put temptation directly within the by tobacco manufacturers for years to defend shopper’s reach.’ This advert appeared in 2003 their freedom to advertise. The quotes below in the industry magazine, The Grocer. In a show that the way food is marketed and special marketing feature, Nestlé’s Sales displayed in shops are acknowledged by the Communications Manager explained that the industry as important ways to encourage us to company’s sales promotions, such as displaying buy more sugary and fatty products by chocolate bars right next to popular magazines increasing total category sales. at the checkout, ‘aim to unlock an extra £1 million of profit for retailers, by tempting 25% of women to purchase confectionery with a copy of Take a Kraft Foods Break. This would mean and extra 15m chocolate Kraft Foods, makers of such bars sold across the year.’ delights as Dairylea Lunchables, says that it ‘…believes that Cadbury promotions are key to driving Cadbury has also stated, in a brochure advising confectionery sales as they entice retailers how to position products to maximise sales, ‘Key brands should occupy key consumers to try a product, which positions: the availability of heavily-advertised lines will trigger extra sales.’ is either new to them, or one which they may not have tasted recently,’ Masterfoods (Mars) and that ‘Retailers can benefit from Masterfoods (Mars) warned retailers in 1995 that removal of sweets on the secondary siting to catch the checkout would lead to a 30% fall in confectionery sales. In 2002, the company shopper’s attention. Gondola ends, stated that it had created promotions specifically designed to increase the dump-bins and counter amount of money a customer spends in a shop, including advising retailers placements all drive incremental that, ‘By organising the layout so that consumer favourites are sited in the ‘hot sales.’ sport’ sales areas, regardless of manufacturer, retailers could take their share of a potential increase in £210m extra confectionery sales.’ Masterfoods’ Trader Relations Manager boasted that the confectionery market is worth a huge £5.8bn a year, which equates to every adult eating confectionery every working day of the week and amazingly, over the past ten years it has grown 66%. Apparently just seeing and stopping at a confectionery display will encourage 80% of shoppers to make a purchase.

Ferrero Ferrero, which manufacturers Kinder Bueno chocolate and Kinder Eggs, reported that confectionery sales dipped in 2002 (probably due to a surge in popularity of mobile phones among young people) and said that it would respond with ‘heavyweight marketing support, including regular TV exposure, to all our confectionery brands to ensure that they are constantly top of consumers’ minds.’ In addition, it advised retailers to ‘Stock best sellers; stock heavily advertised products; and stock and create impactful displays.’

Haribo Haribo is the best-selling confectioner that specialises in bagged sweets for children. Haribo’s director has commented that ‘We believe strongly in the value of promotions in driving sales. We operate in what essentially is an impulse-driven market, so obviously the more ways we have of getting consumers to notice our products the better.’

Wrigley Whilst many Wrigley’s chewing gum products do not contain sugar, this cartoon advertisement from a trade magazine illustrates how displays can be used to maximise profit. Many of the sugary gums and bubble gums, those most attractive to younger children, are placed low down in the display, and the packets are arranged in boxes displayed to make it easy to pick up the attractively packaged gum. The advertisement states that 20% of confectionery profit can be generated by a Wrigley display such as this.

Food Magazine 63 13 Oct/Dec 2003 FM63-7_MH.qxd 11/11/08 09:25 Page 14 CHECKOUT The supermarket checkout survey

he Food Commission has carried out checkouts in its larger stores, compared to display of snacks and soft drinks at the T surveys of several London only 23% in its smaller Tesco Metro Stores. checkout. Enclosed with this issue of the Food supermarkets. We found that ASDA is Sainsbury had 58% snack-free checkouts in Magazine is a double-sided sheet. One side the worst offender, with an average of 2.4 its larger stores, compared to no snack-free shows a cartoon where you can tell retailers separate displays per till. Displays included checkouts at all in its Sainsbury Local know what you think – just write your specially designed fridges with sugary soft convenience stores. comments in the speech bubble. Every opinion drinks, displays of Pringles crisps and Marks & Spencer confectionery displays counts! promotional displays of KitKat Kubes together specifically target children with products We will collect the comments together and with a plethora of other confectionery, stocked at children’s eye level, many having send them to all of the supermarkets – to stocked close to the ground where children popular cartoon characters such as the show companies such as Waitrose that their could easily reach them. Fimbles or Tweenies on the packaging. Many good efforts are appreciated, and to tell At the other end of the scale, Waitrose was parents have complained to us that this companies like Safeway that they should stop a good example of better practice, with no causes conflict between themselves and their exploiting their customers. snacks or soft drinks displayed at its children. We will not tell the supermarkets your checkouts. name or address, but it would be helpful if you Ten years ago, Tesco and Sainsbury were How you can help could send this to us with your comments so declared sweet-free. However, in 2003 they that we can keep you updated on the progress seem to have different policies depending on It is very important that supermarkets and of the campaign. the type of store. Tesco had 68% snack-free pharmacies hear what people think about the On the other side of the sheet is a Survey Score sheet. The Checkout League Table shown above gives a good The best and the worst of supermarket checkouts indication of the pattern of snack-free checkouts and the average number of The checkouts at Waitrose are snack free, putting the supermarket well ahead of the rest of the field. displays per checkout, but it is not ASDA brings up the rear with a wide range of unhealthy snacks, soft drinks and sweets placed within comprehensive. We would like to get easy reach of children at the checkouts. a national picture of the situation. Confectionery Crisps and Soft Stocked % of snack Average Next time you go shopping, could you % bagged drinks within free number spare a few minutes to carry out a snacks % % children’s checkouts of displays supermarket or pharmacy survey? reach % per till Perhaps you can tell us about a retailer that we have missed? 1) Waitrose 0 0 0 0 100 0 Send your comments and/or 2) Tesco 18 14 0 100 68 0.3 survey to the FREEPOST address 3) Lidl 40 0 0 50 60 0.4 below (no need for a stamp). 4) Sainsbury 19 0 32 60 58 0.4 I More details of the campaign are 5) Tesco Metro 77 0 0 100 23 0.8 on our Parents Jury website: www.parentsjury.org.uk. 6) Iceland 20 20 0 100 40 1.3 7) Co-op 71 0 0 100 29 1.4 If you are a member of an organisation and would like to 8) Budgens 67 58 8 100 25 1.5 become a campaign supporter or are 9) Fresh & Wild 100 00 0 0 1 able to publicise the campaign by distributing leaflets or including an 10) Sainsbury Local 100 0 0 100 0 1 article in a newsletter or on a website, 11) Europa 100 0 0 100 0 1 please contact Annie Seeley on: [email protected] , by 12) Marks & Spencer 100 0 0 100 0 1 fax 020 7837 1141, by telephone 020 13) Morrisons 100 0 0 100 0 1.3 7837 2250, or write to: Food 14) Somerfield 100 33 67 100 0 2.3 Commission, Freepost 7564, London N1 9BR. 15) Safeway 100 24 64 100 0 2.3 16) ASDA 70 36 36 100 30 2.4

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marketing Publishers target the tiniest tastebuds

ugary foods are being used in books Robinson Children’s Books to produce at least S to teach children to read and to count 21 books of general knowledge for children, in a move that crosses the line all carrying the confectionery branding. between education and advertising. Playhouse Publishing, which has patented The board books shown below are designed the concept of including branded snack foods Hershey’s clearly thinks it is important to for toddlers. They integrate branded sweets, in children’s books (US Patent RE37,362M) teach American children how to consume, chocolates and sugared breakfast cereals into estimates that 10 million food-branded play and to introduce them to essential skills simple reading and counting exercises. The books have already been sold worldwide. Play- such as how to recognise brand names. M&Ms Counting Board Book invites children house has already sued publishers Simon & It has met the challenge in true to place the contents of a packet of M&Ms Schuster, Charlesbridge and HarperCollins for marketing style. Hershey's Kisses: Counting onto the page: ‘Pour out your candies, get patent infringement for producing similar books. Board Book; The Hershey's Kisses Addition ready, get set. This counting book is the Such remarkable sales figures are a big Book, and The Hershey's Kisses Subtraction tastiest yet!’ with spaces for 55 chocolates. attraction for food companies, as well as Book will teach a child the basics of maths, The Cheerios Animal Play Book has specially publishers. Fostering brand loyalty starts at an as well as a preference for the delicious indented places on each picture for a child to early age, and has been a key tool of food high-fat and high-sugar Hershey's Kisses place their cereal pieces and then eat them marketers for many years. As early as 1995, we (twists of chocolate sold as a ‘treat’ product from the page. As the authors point out: reported on Barbie dolls being used to promote in the US). Once the toddlers have learned ‘Pages are recessed to help children success- McDonald’s brand imagery and a fast-food all that, they can move on to Hershey's fully place the cereal pieces in the scenes’. lifestyle (an ironic image, since most young chocolate bars and more advanced maths Books for older children are produced by American girls are highly likely to end up work- with The Hershey's Milk Chocolate companies such as Hershey’s, showing how ing for McDonald’s at some point in their life!) Multiplication Book the Hershey's Weights to work out fractions using chunks of the Researchers undertaking a major review of and Measures and The Hershey's Milk branded chocolate (see box, right). the effects of food promotion to children (on Chocolate Bar Fractions Book (an extract is Whilst these examples are from the US behalf of the Food Standards Agency, report reproduced above). (purchased in the UK via a website), the published in September 2003 – see Editorial, Curiously, even though it is a fractions appeal of such books is spreading. The UK page 2) found that ‘Companies targeting book, it fails to mention that a Hershey’s Nestlé brand Smarties has, for instance, children are keen to create, foster and milk chocolate bar is roughly 1/3 fat (1/2 of teamed up with develop brand loyalty among young people to which is saturated) and more than 1/2 sugar. encourage continued, regular consumption’. Marketing manuals also talk about ‘building relationships with brands’ and associating food products with fun, play and nostalgia. They know that not only will children ask their parents for the advertised products and buy them with their own The Cheerios Animal Play pocket money, but Book describes itself as that those choices ‘tasty interactive fun that are likely to persist toddlers will love!’ And once into adulthood. The they’ve finished this book principle is: Catch they can move on to The them young. Cheerios Counting Book, Unfortunately, then play with The Cheerios this marketing Play Book and celebrate This M&M’s counting book principle seems to holidays with Cheerios claims to make ‘counting a treat for the have become: Halloween Play Book and youngest readers’. They are ten other M&M’s Catch them younger Cheerios Christmas Play titles aimed at children. and younger. Book!

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health

Lessons from the 1950s

Children put into a 1950s environment In keeping with 1950s educational Children do not necessarily want to be lost weight. Perhaps we need to go practices, all children had to take part in one sedentary, or to be subjected to advertising or back to the future, argues one-time hour of formal games and PE each school day, pressured into eating or drinking what their teacher Dr Laurel Edmunds. and had to amuse themselves with their own peers judge to be ‘cool’. playground games in breaks and free time I am not, in any way, advocating a return to For those of us interested in children’s weight, after they had finished their homework. the educational practices of the ’50s, yet the the final episode of Channel 4’s programme The makers of the programme (Twenty fact that some of the children lost a stone in That’ll teach ’em was a revelation. Twenty) had the foresight to weigh the only four weeks is impressive, particularly as That’ll teach ’em was a short series shown children at the beginning and end of their stay. it was incidental to everything else that was this summer where 30 children were sent to a The more overweight children lost over a happening. In this respect, it was healthier 1950s-style boarding school for a month. They stone. What a difference a dearth of snack psychologically than focusing on weight loss. had to live the lives of children in that period – foods and increased opportunities for safe Two thoughts occurred to me after from O-Levels in the classroom to a lack of play can make! watching the series. Firstly the makers of the deodorants and unflattering school uniforms. As it stands, this programme is an programme managed to achieve what much of Their diet was simple, not particularly interesting comment on children's lifestyles of the rest of the world is seeking and failing to appetising and included post-war specialities today and how much more it now promotes do. Secondly we, collectively as a society, such as spam fritters. The food was certainly weight gain. The marketing of foods, soft need to take more responsibility for the world not low in fat, but children were only allowed drinks, computer games, mobile phones, etc, in which our children are growing up. to eat at meal times. All their snacks and and the loss of safe play areas are modern treats were confiscated on arrival (apart from phenomena. By reversing some of these I Dr Edmunds is Research Fellow at Bristol a few hidden under floorboards or in linen trends the children lost weight – the series University’s Avon Longitudinal Study of cupboards), as were their cosmetics, personal was like an uncontrolled experiment on the Parents and Children. She writes here in a hygiene and hair products. effects of changing a child’s environment. personal capacity. Milk... or sweets?

Manufacturers of fatty, high sugar mention that it also contains confectionery are always looking for ways to more than three times the claim that chocolate is a healthy food. calories of whole milk and Mars tried the scientific approach and nearly five times the amount of funded research to show that chocolate was sugar (as do most other brands of high in beneficial antioxidants. After lots of milk chocolate). favourable publicity an independent study These products are not low in revealed that the antioxidant properties of milk fat either, with over three times the fat of chocolate were negligible, probably because whole milk. the antioxidants were rendered inactive by the Cadbury and Kinder use the healthy milk content. image of milk to appeal to mothers of Kinder has taken a different route, and young children. And at 72-75p per 100g boasts that its chocolate ‘combines milk’s high these chocolates cost four times as much nutritional elements with the delicious taste of as a glass of whole milk. chocolate’. With a picture of milk, plus a milky Prompted by a complaint from a member Products such as these chocolate bars do background, and a healthy looking youngster of the Parents Jury, we challenged another contain milk. But since they also contain high with perfect, calcium-white teeth (see picture) snack product, Cheestrings, on its claim that levels of added fat and sugar, should they shoppers are led to believe that Kinder Choco- ‘one Cheestring = 210ml of milk’. We argued imply that they offer equivalent nutritional late has a similar nutritional value to milk. that the product’s high salt content meant benefits to milk? Cadbury has also used the perceived that it was not equivalent to milk. The healthiness of milk to sell chocolate. Its manufacturer, Golden packaging depicts two glasses of milk being Vale Cheese Co., has In Ireland, Cadbury even goes so far as to say that its MagiMilk poured into a piece of chocolate. We have agreed to remove the chocolate can provide 50% of the Recommended Daily Amount of been sent an example of Cadbury chocolate claim. calcium. (pictured below), sold in Ireland, which claims to contribute 50% of a person’s Recommended Daily Amount (RDA) of calcium. Kinder proudly states that 100g of its chocolate contains ‘all the most important nutritional values (proteins, calcium and mineral salts) of 250 ml of milk’. It fails to

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health Are children getting less active?

The food industry argues children get. By measuring children’s actual five-year period. The increase is found among that children are getting activity using an accelerometer, the evidence both boys and girls and among primary and shows that children will voluntarily get more secondary school children. fatter because they are physical activity out of school hours to No-one doubts that children would benefit taking less exercise, not compensate if the school does not offer much from plenty of exercise, and there is good physical activity in lesson time (see page 19 reason to encourage them to take more because of the food they for details). physical activity whenever they can. eat. But, asks Tim Lobstein, Looking at trends, there is some data But we should not be assuming that do the figures add up? available for children in Wales, a relatively children are lazier now than ever before, and stable population, which shows that, if that it is inactivity alone which has led to the anything, children are getting more exercise increase in child obesity levels. Changes in n the previous issue of the Food Magazine out of school than they were in the 1980s. The diets are also to blame. I we noted that UK dietary surveys proportion of children getting at least four appeared to show a downward trend in hours exercise a week out of school hours has 1. Young People in Wales: findings from the the amount of food people were eating. been steadily rising (Figure 1). Health Behaviour in School-aged Children The industry has pounced on the survey Figures from Sport England show a similar (HBSC) study 1986-2000, Welsh Assembly data to show that it must be lack of exercise, story (Figure 2). Sport England gives statistics Government Technical Report No 1, 2002. not excess food consumption, that has led to comparing 1994 data with its latest survey in the rise in obesity seen in adults and children 1999 showing that the percentage of children 2. Young People and Sport, National Survey during the 1990s. taking part in sporting activities outside school 1999, Sport England Research, February 2000. Evidence suggests that under-reporting hours has increased from 37% to 45% in the was wide-spread in the dietary surveys, giving false figures about the amounts being 1 consumed. Children’s diets, in particular, may Figure 1: Children aged 11-16 are getting more exercise outside of school. be prone to poor reporting, especially their consumption of snack foods, confectionery k e e and soft drinks. The figures for food r e o w m

production, imports and UK food sales showed r g e n p i

increasing quantities of food being purchased t t e e s i

in Britain. g

c r n e But what about the other side of the e r x d e l

i equation? Is it true that the average child is f h o

c

s f getting less exercise now than in the past? r o u

o e

School sport has been squeezed in the h g

r a t u

timetable, and school playing fields sold off to n o f e

c n

developers. The amount of Physical Education r a e h t (PE) and sports offered in the timetable is up P to schools, and the pressure to fulfil core curriculum teaching has led to a decline in Figure 2. Proportion of children’s participation in extra-curricular sporting activity.2 lesson-time available for physical activity. Equally, travel to and from school has become more car-dependent. Only 9% of 7-8 n i

year olds were walking or cycling to school by n o i t y 1990 compared to 80% in 1971. This has a t i p i v i c t corresponded with a rise in the numbers of i t c r a a children being driven to school by car – four p g

n n i t

times as many 7-11 year olds were e r r o d l p chauffeured in 1990 as in 1971. i s h

r c

But hard evidence on the amount of a f l o u

c e

exercise children are actually getting is i r g r a t difficult to come by. A recent report in the u n c - e a

British Medical Journal suggests that the c r r t e x P amount of exercise taken at school is not e indicative of the total amount of exercise

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agriculture

Trade talks: all heat and no light

Recent international trade talks in Cancun, which collapsed on the fifth day, with no Mexico, were heated and long, and ended agreements made. Soil Association urges better with no agreed position. But, writes Sustain’s A positive aspect of the failure was that the school meals Vicki Hird, it is hardly surprising that while the poorer countries were able to show a stronger value of farm produce continues to slide, that hand in negotiations. The ‘medieval’ The organic standards organisation, the Soil the billions of dollars spent by the US and procedures of the WTO are at last being Association, has added its weight to the European Union (EU) and Japan on farm forced open by those who need most to have growing movement calling for better school subsidies were very much a cause for concern. their say. Yet the talks failed and no new trade meals, calling on the government and local Developing countries see these subsidies as agreement was drawn up after five hard days. education authorities to ensure that children unfair and discriminatory. Consumer groups Many delegates left Cancun believing that get ‘healthy, local, organic’ school meals. want an end to these farm subsidies and the a bad agreement would have been worse than Its report emphasises the tight budgets for higher domestic prices that go with them. no agreement. Now, however, the poorer feeding children, in some places as little as It is well documented that these subsidies countries will have to work hard to maintain 31p per meal, compared with an average of cause farmers to produce too much (for their unity and push for fairer rules and more 60p for meals in HM prisons. ‘As a result, low example, sugar and milk), so destabilising support. For the EU, the failure of the talks was quality processed food - such as breaded fish markets. Export subsidies then allow this a severe let down as the recent agriculture or chicken shapes - dominates school meals produce to be ‘dumped’ on world markets at policy (CAP) reforms were meant, but failed, to which are often high in fat, sugar and salt.’ prices below the cost of production. This ease negotiations. Peter Melchett, the Soil Association’s undermines poorer country farmers’ ability to That food safety, environmental and policy director said, ‘All too often, children at develop and access their own markets. sustainable development, animal welfare and primary school are fed muck off a truck. The It is a scandal that Europe and the US quality issues did not get a mention during the Government acknowledges there are pressed in Cancun for completely open discussions should give food campaigners problems and must, as a first step, bring back southern markets while protecting their own pause for thought. When it comes to the major quantified nutritional standards for school production with subsidies. Development decisions, we are not having enough impact meals. Then parents, schools, local groups like Oxfam and ActionAid were present and need to become more noisy, focussed and authorities, food suppliers, farmers and the at Cancun, aiding poorer country delegations. demanding. Government need to work together to ensure The groups are now being partly blamed for school lunches are made from unprocessed, the spectacular failure of the negotiations, I Contact Vicki Hird at Sustain on: local and organic food.’ [email protected] I Fit for Life costs £12 from the Soil Association, tel: 0117 929 0661. Details on www.soilassociation.org/web/sa/saweb.nsf/ When you go to lunch, take me librarytitles/NT00019062.html

with you! Health at the heart of CAP

School and hospital food has attracted Surveys of any publicly run The need to put health issues into the Common considerable attention of late for canteen such as a nursery, Agricultural Policy is highlighted in a new being poor quality or procured from hospital, school or care home will document from a group of experts attending the cheapest, least nutritious be helpful. Feel free to make the European Health Forum at Gastein, Austria. sources. As these publicly run photocopies or contact Sustain: Noting that the Articles of the Amsterdam canteens often provide food for the The alliance for better food and Treaty require that ‘a high level of health protec- most vulnerable groups, it is vital farming, for more survey cards. tion shall be ensured in the that they serve the best food and Just by asking questions, you definition and implemen- maximise the opportunity for public gains will be showing that there is interest tation of all Community using public money. in these issues. Also, by filling in this policies and activities’, the Can you help? We need to find out more questionnaire and sending it back via email, report argues that the CAP about what is served up in canteens around fax or post, you can help us work out how best support for tobacco, milk, the country. This will help us to understand to support the kind of food people want in sugar and meat, along with what efforts, if any, are being made to provide public canteens. payments for the more sustainable, more environmentally destruction of fruit and friendly and healthier meals. I A web version of this survey is available vegetables, grossly A survey card has been enclosed with this at: www.sustainweb.org Contact Vicki Hird distorts the market and edition of the Food Magazine. If you use a at: [email protected] or tel: 020 7837 1228. undermines public health. canteen, or have a connection with somebody Send completed survey cards to: Sustain, 94 who does, please fill it in. White Lion Street, London N1 9PF. I www.capre form.com/ documents/ HealthattheCap_000.pdf

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science

What the doctor reads The latest research from the medical journals

Fruit and veg help with that people who drink two cups of coffee a when the incidence of cancer cases rose day are 40% less likely to develop cirrhosis. among the supplement-taking group breathing I A Tverdal & S Skurtveit, Ann Epidemiol, 13, 2003. compared to the controls. In a six-year follow- up study, the incidence of cancer among the Children who eat little or no fruit and trial participants has been monitored, and the vegetables are more likely to have deficient Vegetables give two results show that after four years there is no respiratory functioning, according to evidence of a raised risk of cancer among the Californian researchers. Low intakes of years of life group that had taken supplements. The orange and other fruit juices, and of the A study of 1,500 men in two Italian towns over message remains the same however: these antioxidant vitamins C and A commonly found a 30-year period has shown that those eating isolated supplements were not effective and in fruit and vegetables, were associated with at least 60 grams of vegetables a day, that smokers especially should avoid beta- poor respiration, and were particularly notice- compared with those eating less than 20 carotene supplements. able in children with asthma, and may contri- grams, lived at least two years longer on I ATBC Study Group, J Am Med Ass, 290, 2003. bute to a risk of lung disease in adulthood. average. Approximately a year of life was I F D Gilliland et al, Am J Epidemiol, 158, 2003. added for every 20 grams of vegetables consumed above the minimum levels. The Diet can equal statins in relationship was even stronger among Does coffee protect the smokers than non-smokers, although cholesterol control liver? smokers had a shorter life expectancy than Adherence to a cholesterol-lowering diet non-smokers at all levels of vegetable can be as good at reducing blood Reports in the medical press a few years ago consumption. cholesterol levels as the use of statins, the suggested that coffee – but not other caffeine- I F Seccareccia et al, Ann Epidemiol, 13, 2003. current medical treatment of choice. A containing beverages such as cola drinks – randomised control trial compared statin may help protect the liver from both alcohol- treatment with a diet very low in saturated induced and non-alcohol cirrhosis. The Beta-carotene risk fat, rich in whole grains and soya, and studies were based on analysis of the diets of especially sources of soluble fibre, plant patients with cirrhosis, and indicated that declines over four years sterols and almonds. The results showed these people had a low level of coffee The use of anti-oxidant vitamin supplements that both statins and the fibre-rich diet drinking. Now a new study from Norway has containing beta carotene and alpha achieved cholesterol reductions of around confirmed the link. Based on following over tocopherol for cancer prevention was tested 30%. A semi-control group put on a low 50,000 adults for 17 years, the research shows in the early 1990s. The trials were suspended saturated fat, whole-grain diet with no focus on soluble fibres or sterols achieved a 10% reduction in blood cholesterol levels. Sometimes manufacturers can really a Mars Bar! Badvertisement I DJA Jenkins et al, J Am Med Ass, 290, 2003.

Outspan: Only goodness? School PE reduces non-school exercise stretch the use of the Despite the fat and sugar, word ‘healthy’. These the packaging tells us that A three-school comparison of children’s Chocolate flavour this is a ‘real orange’ snack activity levels has shown that getting children coated muesli bars with – so it must be healthy – to take more PE classes may lead to them ‘real orange’ are mustn't it? Well the doing less exercise out of school, with no net apparently a ‘healthy Sweetened Orange gain overall. Measurements using anytime snack’. They Concentrate which makes certainly look healthy, up 5.6% of the whole accelerometers (devices that are used to with images of fresh product contains: measure movements), taken from children in a orange slices, dried fruit Orangefruit, Sucrose, primary school with a curriculum requiring and oats. But, as we’ve Fructose, Glucose, Gelling nine hours of PE per week, showed that their so often found, it pays to Agent (E406), Citric Acid total activity was no greater than that read the small print. (E330), Malic Acid (E296) recorded for children in two schools offering and Natural Colour (E160b). 1.8 and 2.2 hours of PE in the curriculum. The At 24% fat, this high fat snack is hardly authors show that out-of-class exercise is a healthy option. Saturated fat makes This Outspan product isn’t healthy for much higher for those children in the latter up a staggering 21.5% of this product the environment either. Is it really two schools, and that children compensate for (a figure of 5% saturated fat would be necessary to ship unhealthy cereal bars considered high, and this is four times all the way from South Africa when we different school-based activity levels with higher than that). And with 32% sugar, have plenty on our supermarket shelves their out-of-school behaviour. I this product is nearly twice as sugary as already? KM Mallam et al, BMJ, 327, 13 Sept 2003.

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Kids’ Food for Fitness You don’t have to be the par- The Chips are Down ent of an aspiring athlete to benefit from Anita Bean’s excellent This is an excellent guide to the planning and promotion book. It’s full of great everyday advice, including: The latest of healthy eating in schools, full of nitty-gritty practical nutritional guidelines for active children aged 5–16; Clear practi- guidance, such as how to gain the enthusiasm and cal advice on nutrition and exercise; Tips on eating and drinking for sporty kids; support of teachers, parents, health professionals and, Smart advice for overweight children; Healthy menu plans, tasty most importantly, pupils. £15.00 recipes and snack ideas. Special offer – £12.99 The NEW Shopper’s Guide to Dump the Junk! Organic Food Containing over 300 expert tips for how to encourage your Is organic food worth the extra expense? Is it all children to eat healthy food and dump the junk, and with lots of it’s cracked up to be? How does it compare with non-organic tasty recipes, this is an essential guide for parents. Illustrated with food? Lynda Brown answers all these questions and more in entertaining cartoons by the Food Magazine’s Ben Nash. £7.99 her NEW Shopper’s Guide to Organic Foods. Food writer The Food Our Children Eat – 2nd edition Nigel Slater describes it as ‘Essential reading for anyone who How can you bring up children to chomp on clementines rather than cola cares about what they put in their and their children’s chews? Award-winning author Joanna Blythman’s book is an inspiring mouths.’ £9.99 guide for parents. From weaning a baby to influencing a teenager, she explains how to bring children up to share the same healthy and wide Children’s Nutrition Action Plan The Food Commission’s action plan details what UK children are eating and the health problems that are likely to arise as a ranging food tastes as you. No more tantrums, fights and refusals: result of their diet. The action plan maps the measures advocat- her strategies are relaxed, low-effort – and they work. £8.99 ed by governmental and non-governmental organisations to bring about change, and Fast Food Nation – now in paperback highlights key policies that could make a real difference to children’s health and well- being. £10.00 Eric Schlosser’s bestseller lifts the lid on the fast food industry. He explores how fake Posters: Genetically Modified smells and tastes are created, talks to Foods, Children’s Food, Food workers at abattoirs and explains how Labelling, and Food Additives the fast food industry is transforming not only our diet but our landscape, economy, workforce and culture. Packed with essential information to help you and Essential reading. £7.99 your family eat healthy, safe food these posters explain the problems with GM technology; give Back issues of the Food Magazine useful tips on getting children to eat a healthy diet; Back issues usually cost £3.50 each but we’re selling a full explain how to understand nutrition labelling; help set of available issues (approx. eighteen issues from 1996 you see through deceptive packaging and market- to 2003) for £30.00. Send for index of major news stories ing claims and examine the contentious issue of and features in past issues. Stocks are limited and food additives. Each poster is A2 in size and costs £2.50 order form many issues are already out-of-stock.

publications all prices include postage & packing payments / donations Kids’ Food for Fitness £12.99 H Please tick items required and send payment by cheque, postal order or credit card. Dump the Junk! £7.99 H Overseas purchasers should send payment in £ sterling, and add £1.50 per book for airmail delivery. H Payment The Food Our Children Eat – 2nd edition £8.99 www.foodcomm.org.uk Fast Food Nation £7.99 H Donation Visit our website for a full list of our Full set of available back issues Total publications, posters and reports of the Food Magazine. £30.00 H The Chips are Down £15.00 H I have enclosed a cheque or postal order made payable to The Food Commission The NEW Shopper’s Guide to Organic Food £9.99 H Children’s Nutrition Action Plan £10.00 H Please debit my Visa or Mastercard Poster – Genetically Modified Foods £2.50 H My credit card number is: Poster – Children’s Food £2.50 H Card expiry date: Poster – Food Labelling £2.50 H Poster – Food Additives £2.50 H Signature: List of available back issues free H subscriptions Name Address: Individuals, schools, public libraries £22.00 H OVERSEAS Individuals, schools, libraries £25.00 H Organisations, companies £45.00 H Postcode: Date: OVERSEAS Organisations, companies £50.00 H Send your order to: Publications Dept, The Food Commission, 94 White Lion The Food Magazine is published four times a year. Street, London N1 9PF. Tel: 020 7837 2250. Fax: 020 7837 1141. Your subscription will start with our next published issue. Email: [email protected] Delivery will usually take place within 14 days.

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books

For the men in this Saharan Vital Signs: The society, the female form needs to be fat not only to be beautiful but trends that are Feeding Desire: to be different from themselves. shaping our future, Fatness, Beauty and ‘What would be the point if a 2003-2004 Written under the auspices of woman felt like a man?’ asks one. the United Nations Environment Sexuality Among a But a woman’s fatness, Worldwatch Institute, 2003, Programme, these global Saharan People suggests Popenoe, is much more Earthscan (www.earthscan.co.uk) statistics sometimes makes than the fulfilment of a man’s ISBN 1-84407-021-2, £14.95 chilling reading. R Popenoe, Routledge, 2004, needs. In the context, her fatness A chapter on food production ISBN 0-415-28096-6, £16.99. represents the culmination of her Once again, the US Worldwatch shows that, in 2002, the global culture: a body fit for sex and Institute has delivered its telling grain crop declined for the third Avoidance of obesity is not childrearing but not physical account of the state of the world’s time in four years, attributed universal. While many in Europe labour. She is immobile while men health - economic, environmental mainly to drought in Australia and and America regard fatness as a are mobile, she creates sensuality and physical. Its themes in this North America. The grain harvest worse evil than thinness, the and beauty while men act to edition are the growing economic has slipped below demand, same view is not held by many provide the food that feeds her. divide between the world’s rich pushing down stocks of grain held cultures, including those of the Popenoe does an excellent job and poor nations, and the in private and government stores, Caribbean and North Africa. in making us think carefully about patterns of consumption and with world cereal stocks falling Indeed, the author of Feeding why Northern Europeans want disease that are already shaping sharply by 20% in just one year Desire suggests that 80% of the women to be shaped like men. the future of the 21st century. (2002), to the lowest level in 40 world’s societies prefer plump years of record-keeping. With a women. The anthropological changing climate, and with 2002 context of this preference is Fat Land: How Americans setting ‘numerous local and explored in Popenoe’s study of became the fattest people in regional records for windstorms, extreme fatness among women of rain intensities, floods, droughts the semi-nomadic Moors of the the world. and temperatures’‚ are these Saharan desert. Here, voluptuous warnings of tough times ahead? immobility is encouraged among G Critser, 2003, Allen Lane thinking Meanwhile, meat production girls, who are fed milk and porridge Books, ISBN 0 713 997 397, £9.99. also, for a and consumption in 2002 through years of childhood, while, represented an increase of 2.5% hastening the onset of puberty For such a heavyweight (groan!) allowed on 2001 levels, with a meat eater’s and ‘ripening them for marriage’. subject, this is a wonderfully the notion diet requiring two to four times Ideal body images, says light read, stuffed with that it was more land than a vegetarian’s. Popenoe, are a result of cultural fascinating facts and anecdotes okay for a person to gain There are few surprises in the values and social structures and persuasive arguments weight as they grow older, and section on consumption and its shared by women and men alike, showing, step by step, the that less and less physical relationship to mortality, but the and fatness shares a cultural construction of a social and activity was necessary to statistics are startling nonethe- domain occupied by practices economic environment that maintain good health. All this at less. At one end of the scale, 6.2 such as altering body parts, virtually guarantees weight gain, the time that portion sizes were million deaths in a single year were tattooing, piercing and hair styling especially for the poorest groups growing ever larger. attributed to dietary deficiencies. – all part of a very human concern in America. Greg Critser is Alongside these sociological At the other end of the scale, 7.6 to modify nature and present refreshingly clear that fat is a observations is some interesting million deaths were caused by the oneself among one’s peers. class issue and notes how a science. For example, high diseases of over-consumption, The author eschews suggest- good deal of political time and fructose corn syrup (one of the such as high blood pressure, high ions that ideal female body energy has been dissipated by main ingredients in non-diet soft cholesterol, being overweight images are set by men and that focusing on eating disorders drinks) appears to skew the and eating too few fruits and they serve to oppress women. (which, though serious, are a metabolism to store more fat vegetables. Even more alarming is She suggests instead that the very minor public health problem than ordinary sugar. Also, a that these disease patterns of Western body image ideal for experienced mainly by the ‘thrifty’ gene might make recent affluent countries are spreading women has followed women’s middle class) instead of on poor migrants to rich countries to the global south: ‘More people increasing adoption of male roles overweight and obesity. more prone to obesity. die from overconsumption in in society, with a body image Black and Hispanic The main thrust of the book developing countries (up to 14.3 expressing action – lean and trim. Americans suffer higher rates of seems to be, though, that the million) than in industrial ones.’ In contrast, obesity and related medical relentless removal of boundaries This book is not a happy read, among the conditions such as diabetes than at all levels – personal, family, but it is a useful one. If you can desert Moors, white Americans. However, a religious, economic and political keep your spirits up through women are combination of bad science and – is at the root of the problem. chapters with such cheering titles viewed as a willing culture led to the Disappointingly, Critser stops as ‘corruption thwarts very different widespread acceptance of the short of recommending that development’, ‘birds in decline’‚ to men, with idea that black people’s fat was some boundaries – such as a and ‘severe weather events on a body as more beautiful (and less health- ban on promoting junk food to the rise’, then you will have unlike a damaging) than white people’s children – be established. learned a great deal about the man’s as fat. A similar combination of state of our world. possible. poor science and wishful I Review by Jeanette Longfield

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feedback letters from our readers

Adverts should be more The icing on the cake!

We welcome letters from all of our readers accessible I bought a Sainsbury’s own-brand Christmas but we do sometimes have to shorten them cake described as a ‘rich, moist, all-butter fruit so that we can include as many as possible In my experience, it is impossible to obtain cake’. I understood the description ‘all butter’ (our apologies to the authors). You can from advertisers and their agents copies of to mean that all the fat in the cake was butter. write to The Editor, The Food Magazine, 94 material that are on prominent public display However, on reading the small print when I White Lion Street, London N1 9PF or email to but inaccessible as a source of evidence. This got home, I discovered that the cake also [email protected] hinders appraisal of the content, and contained vegetable shortening, palm oil, construction of a well-supported complaint. hydrogenated palm oil, rapeseed oil, hydrog- We think the Advertising Standards Authority enated rapeseed oil, mono- and diglycerides (ASA) should insist that all advertisers or their of fatty acids and hydrogenated palm kernel To wash or not to wash? agents should maintain collections of originals oil. I believe that the descriptions ‘luxury’ and of all their advertisements over the last, say, ‘all butter’ are misleading. On complaining to With hygiene improving all the time and tighter two years from which copies could be made my local trading standards officer, I was told restrictions on pesticide residues, should we for enquirers. Organisations such as ours are that because these ingredients are really still be washing fruit and vegetables? It consulted by various authorities on grounds of constituents of the icing, the cake could seems like a waste of water. the claims made by advertisers. legally be called ‘all butter’.I am astonished that the term ‘cake’ in a description of the item Rachel Marsh, Kent Dr Alan Long, Research Adviser, does not apparently include the icing! Vegetarian Economy & Green Agriculture This summer, a government survey showed Fiona Monroe, southwest London pesticide residues in 40 per cent of fruit and We agree that it would be very useful for vegetables tested. However, only a small copies of advertising materials to be more percentage had concentrations at levels that easily available, especially where ad We’re QUIDs in! could be a risk to health. For instance, one UK campaigns ‘fly under the radar’ of proper lettuce samples and one Spanish spinach scrutiny – by being regional campaigns, Your recent edition of the Food Magazine sample contained more than the limit delivered through direct mail, or targeted at criticised packaging of Grove Fresh Organic considered safe for consumption by toddlers. particular age groups. In the case of Apple and Mango Juice for carrying no Washing may reduce the problem, although it misleading advertising campaigns, the Quantitative Ingredient Declaration (QUID). A can’t get rid of all residues. recipients may not be aware that they are sample of the current packaging is enclosed However, food-poisoning can occur from being misled or misinformed, and therefore for your information, showing that we fully unwashed produce, especially where that may not be in a position to make a complaint. comply with the QUID regulations. The produce is not cooked before consumption. In That’s if they are even aware that a packaging you featured was superseded 2002, 17 cases of hepatitis-A were traced complaints procedure exists. following introduction of the new regulations. back to blueberries picked in a New Zealand Like VEGA, the Food Commission receives orchard. It was found that the only toilet many letters from people who have seen or Andrew Shupick, Managing Director, facilities available for fruit pickers were pit heard advertising and wish to make a Grove Fresh latrines without running water, soap or towels. complaint. We try wherever possible to take There was no system for removal of rubbish the case to the appropriate complaints body. Thank you for the sample carton. We are such as disposable nappies left by the pickers, But like you, we find it is a time-consuming delighted that your products fully comply with and several young children were present on challenge to get hold of a copy of the advert in the QUID regulations. site during picking – including one 9-year-old order to frame a reasonable argument. We who went on to develop hepatitis-A. will also write to the Advertising Standards The conclusion? Carry on washing those Authority to support your suggestions. fruit and veg! Calculating Body Mass Index Fooled by the fruit Several readers, including Rosemary I hate being fooled by food labelling. That’s why I’m Kinsell from Chard in Somerset, and sending you this Muller fromage frais, so that other Paul Appleby from Wantage, pointed out parents might not fall for the same thing. The that we made a mistake when explaining packaging has lovely pictures of a raspberry, a peach how to calculate Body Mass Index (BMI) in and strawberries, and I checked on the ingredients the previous Food Magazine. The BMI and saw that fruit was the second ingredient at 15%, measurement is used by health after fromage frais. And ‘sugar’ was right down near professionals to judge whether someone the bottom of the ingredients. That looked better than most of the so- is a healthy or an unhealthy weight. called ‘fruity’ fromage frais products. So I bought them for my little boy. We should have said that BMI is Only when I tried it, and thought it tasted very sugary, did I realise that in fact the 15% is bodyweight in kilos divided by the square of ‘strawberry sauce’ or ‘peach sauce’. The sauce does add up to 15%, but the real fruit content height in metres, BMI = W/(H2). is only 1% of that 15%, and the rest of it is sugary fructose. No wonder the checklist on the The way we explained it in the last issue label says ‘no fruit bits’! could have misled a person with a BMI of 25 Melanie Leicester, Beckenham into believing they had a BMI of nearly 2,000!

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feedback letters from our readers

Investigate the VAT Five-a-day – the wrong way

I try to drink a lot of vegetable juices such as Food Magazine readers have spotted five-a-day claims appearing on ridiculously inappropriate ‘V-8’. But why did they accept the ludicrous food products. Here are three of the most misleading. VAT addition to what is a drink required by all healthy people? I read that Demos [the think- tank] has proposed a ‘fat tax’ on unhealthy Five-a-day... the Blue Parrot way foods. Perhaps you could investigate the crazy bureaucrats who insist on making me pay First in the dock is Sainsbury’s blackcurrant percentage is not extra for my daily drink containing some of the flavoured sparkling water drink. It is part of even given, which ‘5 portions of fruit and vegetables’. I have often the supermarket’s Blue Parrot Café range, according to food written to Government questioning this anti- sold as ‘healthier foods for kids’ that have labelling law health (therefore long-term expensive) been ‘specially developed to deliver great indicates that there is egregious ‘tax’. Maybe you can bang a few taste with improved nutritional quality’. so little blackcurrant political heads together and do the population, You might expect, then, that this product, juice in this bottle that the NHS and the government a lot of good. with its luscious pictures of blackcurrant it is simply there as a fruit, would contain enough blackcurrant flavouring. And whilst Nicholas Cummins, London SW juice to warrant Sainsbury’s on-pack advice: the product contains ‘A glass of fruit juice (150ml) counts towards some apple juice, There are several anomalies in the VAT rules your 5 portions of fruit and vegetables a day’. sugar is the top that show they were drawn up when nutrition No such luck. There is so little ingredient after was not high in government priorities. The blackcurrant juice in this product, that a water. regulations are at: www.hmce.gov.uk, where we discovered some strange facts. For instance, you do not have to pay VAT on ‘marshmallow teacakes (with a crumb, biscuit Five-a-day... the Heinz way or cake base topped with a dome of We have featured Heinz Teletubbies pasta We complained to Heinz’s local trading marshmallow coated in either chocolate sugar shapes with mini sausages before, because standards officer and to the BBC, who wrote strands or coconut)’, whilst ‘Snowballs without this product contains more salt (2.5g) in a to us to say ‘We have discussed these issues such a base are classed as confectionery’ and single portion than the recommended daily with Heinz and they have told us that this you pay VAT at the standard rate. amount for a young child. logo should not have appeared on this Another well-known example is that Jaffa Knowing this, and even after official particular product and they have already Cakes are zero-rated because they are advice on children’s salt intakes was removed the 5-a-day logo on this product for deemed to be ‘cakes’ rather than ‘biscuits’ published earlier this year, Heinz chose this all new production.’ Well, we’re pleased to and can therefore be sold as a cheaper and summer to add a five-a-day claim to this hear it. But when it realised its mistake, did therefore more tempting product. Thank you highly salty product aimed at toddlers. Heinz withdraw the products to be for raising this issue – we will look into it relabelled? Evidently not, since they are still further and report back. available in several national supermarkets. Dangerous gifts

Three deaths have been recorded in the last few years, the result of children choking on the capsule or parts of the toy enclosed in choco- The Food Standards Agency recently set late eggs. Isn’t it crazy that a chocolate treat maximum recommended intakes for salt for must only be consumed under adult supervision? children. A can like this should ideally provide Sure, all children put things in their mouths. no more than a third of a young child’s daily But why deliberately produce a product, aimed intake, which is 0.66g of salt. But a single can at children, that is another hazard? Why not provides nearly four times that amount! make the ‘surprise’ a one-piece toy? Manufacturers deny any migration of choco- late or its smell to the capsule, but too many Five-a-day... the ReBar way parents, safety specialists and even MPs have found otherwise for this to be credible. This American product, ReBar, is available vegetables, equivalent to an amazing 2lbs The Consumers Association, over 70 MPs, in health food stores in the UK. It claims to or 900g of fruit and vegetables – twice the over 100 A&E consultants, the Academy of contain two cups of fruit and two cups of amount recommended to achieve the five- Royal Medical Colleges, all support our a-day. concerns. I ask the Food Commission and But can this small bar really offer members of the Parents Jury: should these the same health benefits as eating products be banned, or redesigned? Is the around ten portions of fresh, whole safety information on the label adequate? fruit and vegetables? We very much doubt it. Jean Roe at: [email protected]

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backbites

Falling prey to Positively oversold! temptation When The Times ran a column deciphering the new evidence, the IFR said it had not food labelling, it hired the Institute of Food changed its opinion, but that the Institute was Be warned! Giving in to the temptations of Research (IFR) to comment on the science suddenly no longer prepared to comment to an in-store promotion can add a serious behind labelling claims. However, when the the media on individual branded products. dose of junk to your daily diet. column unpicked the claims on the Positively Sadly, the IFR (logo: ‘Science you can trust’) is Healthy Cocoa Drink, it soon incurred the not quite as independent wrath of its manufacturer, Mars, which as we might like, with a claimed that the drink contains the same ‘revenue-generating’ antioxidant power as about a pound of wing that provides blueberries or red grapes. consultancies and For The Times article, the IFR said that it did support for ‘wealth not think the evidence was strong enough to creation’ in the food We found this offer in newsagent WH support the claims. The Head of Scientific and industry. Smiths, at our local railway station. A quick Regulatory Affairs for Mars reacted treat to go with your daily newspaper – with a flurry of legal and scientific Antioxidant claims remain, but the assaulting stomach and mind together. letters aimed at persuading the IFR cocoa is no longer ‘Positively Healthy’. If you took up the offer and consumed to modify its views. After reviewing Its new name is ‘Cocoa Shot’. the 500ml Coke and the Toblerone, you would have consumed 725 kcalories and over 70g (14 teaspoons) of sugar. That’s at Why Blair won’t regulate food advertising least a third of your total calories and more Of the many reasons why Blair will not owns the majority of TV companies on which than your entire recommended sugar intake regulate the media, some are well-known – Pubitalia’s adverts are shown. For 20 years for the whole day! such as his closeness to media emperor the mastermind behind Berlusconi’s financial Marketers know that Brits love a Rupert Murdoch – and some less so. For affairs has been a British accountant, David bargain, and that additional sales can be example, Blair’s long-term confidant and Mills. His links to the government, especially prompted by offering crisps, coke and head of his No 10 staff is Jonathan Powell, the department responsible for media and chocolate as part of ‘meal deals’ or special whose brother Chris Powell is chairman of advertising regulation, could not be closer: offers such as these. But if you fall prey to advertising agency BMP DDB. For two he is husband to Tessa Jowell, Secretary of temptation, you will end up consuming decades and four elections, Chris has been State for Culture, Media and Sport. much more than you bargained for. New Labour’s advertising adviser, and is still Readers with intact memories may recall close to the cabinet, having just been handed that David Mills was involved in the Bernie a cosy job as chair of an endowment body, Ecclestone affair, in which the Formula One Bun-fights avoided NESTA, by culture secretary Tessa Jowell. boss donated £1m to the Labour Party at the His company, BMP DDB is among the top same time as benefiting from the The Food Standards Agency (FSA) got into a prize winning ad agencies in the UK with government’s exemption of Formula One tangle over the launch of its review on the several big food companies among its past from a proposed Europe-wide ban on effects of food advertising to children (see and present clients, including promiscuous tobacco advertising. David Mills was at the Editorial, page 2). advertisers to children Pepsi and Walkers, time a director of one of Ecclestone’s Hoping to hear first-hand what the along with Marmite, Cadbury, Lurpak, Kia Ora companies. His wife Tessa Jowell was then researchers had to say, the Food and motor manufacturers Volkswagen (oh, the hapless minister for Public Health – Commission asked for a ticket to the press yes, and the Food Standards Agency). simultaneously responsible for pushing launch. We were told only national media Chris Powell also chairs the Labour ‘centre- through the tobacco ad ban while also could attend and that the Food Magazine left’ think-tank, the Institute of Public Policy proposing a permanent exemption from that does not count as national media, which Research. Not much chance of their support ban for friend Bernie. may come as a surprise to our readers in in a move against advertising to children. Jowell’s predecessor in the Media Glasgow, Cardiff, Belfast ... And then there is the Berlusconi department was Chris Smith. He did little to What we subsequently heard was that connection. The Italian premier, friend to the tackle advertising, and now sits on New the FSA wanted to avoid a bun-fight Blairs and owner Labour’s back between campaigners and the advertising of Europe’s benches. But that’s industry, so groups such as the Advertising second largest not all. He also has Association and industry-funded Food media empire, has a nice little earner Advertising Unit were also excluded. Fair a subsidiary called (around £30k pa) as enough, we thought. Pubitalia, an a consultant to However, the FSA press office had its advertising Disney, a company eye off the ball. The British Nutrition agency he has estimated to be the Foundation was allowed to attend – despite nurtured since the world’s fifteenth a membership list including some of the 1970s and which biggest advertiser worst advertisers, such as Cadbury, Coca- by 1990 was and the largest Cola, Kellogg’s, Mars, McDonald’s, Nestlé, responsible for specialising in Procter & Gamble and United Biscuits. some 70% of products for Only at the last minute did the FSA Italy’s TV From New Labour guru Chris Powell (left) to ex- children – and now realise their gaff, pick up the phone and tell advertising Secretary of State for the media Chris Smith the branching into the BNF to stay away. revenue. He also advertising industry is well protected. food.

Food Magazine 63 24 Oct/Dec 2003