>> BURGER MANIA p. 28 >> SMALL PLATE BOOM & BUST p. 30 >> STAR CHEFS THEN & NOW p. 32

F^W has been spotting food trends for 35 years now. Here, a time line of our greatest hits—and misses. By Michael Endelman Food photograph by Con Poulos

THE SPIRIT OF ’78

premiere issue

The International Review of Food & Wine debuted in 1978. On the first cover: a tumble vegetable of dewy spring vegetables lit rainbow salad, p. 34 from below. To honor the produce-centric theme of that premiere issue, F^W’s Grace Parisi created a quintessential 2013 salad that combines raw, pickled and cooked ingredients (recipe, p. 34). The The Vegetable Revolution flavors are fresh and bright— even without a light box. > 1979 1987 1993 2008 2010 The first of many F&W celebrates In a 10-page story, Jeremy Fox of F&W explores the articles featuring San Francisco’s F&W introduces Napa Valley’s “macho vegetable” farmers’ market vegetarian Greens readers to CSAs Ubuntu becomes trend, writing proselytizer Alice Restaurant with and “the craze for F&W’s first Best about “he-gans,” Waters appears a story called just-picked veggies.” New Chef from parsnip bacon and

food stylist: susan spungen; market editor: suzie myers. bowl by victoria morris, servers by teroforma by servers morris, victoria by bowl myers. suzie editor: market spungen; susan stylist: food in F&W. “Viva Vegetables!” a vegetarian spot. cauliflower steaks.

foodandwine.comfoodandwine.com marchmonth 20132011 251 35

1980s Burgers are basic—thin, 2012 The most beloved burger griddled patties on squishy chains in America (Five Guys, buns in diners, or thick, grilled In-N-Out) all serve essentially patties in steak houses. the same burger: thin patties cooked on the 1994 F&W publishes a griddle, served on rise recipes for “modern of a squishy bun. burgers from craft beer innovative chefs,” 2005 Due to massive including a THE lines at NYC’s Shake 1980 Gorgonzola- Shack in Madison pioneer era stuffed patty from Square Park, the With $50,000 BURGER in loans, Ken L.A.’s Campanile. online “Shack Cam” Grossman founds CYCLE is introduced. Sierra Nevada 2000 At Santa Brewing Company. Monica, California’s The $27 foie 2001 1986 Father’s Office, Sang gras–stuffed burger microbrewery boom Yoon enforces strict at Daniel Boulud’s “Tiny new [breweries] are opening all over America,” rules for people ordering db Bistro Moderne writes beer expert Michael his cult burger—no in ushers Jackson in F^W. substitutions, no ketchup. in the baroque-burger era. 1999 wine-like brews Sonoma’s Russian River Brewing begins aging ales in wine barrels, creating tart beers with complex flavors.

WHAT?! 2002 NEW YORK SAY SAN FRANCISCO quality beer in cans LOS ANGELES POWER SHIFT Proving that aluminum In 2000, F^W wrote about the cans aren’t just for swill, “A restaurant critic, Colorado’s Oskar Blues opens “Manhattanization of Brooklyn,” as puzzled as to how to a canning line, becoming the classically trained chefs moved out describe restaurants first craft brewer to do so. to the borough for the low rent and with menus offering 2012 creative vibe. Now, we’re observing dishes from all over the high-end beer pairings the Brooklynization of America, Brooklyn Brewery creates globe—a little Mexican, a custom beer to pair with as cities like Portland, Oregon, and a little pasta, a little the signature roast chicken Oakland, California, become with foie gras and truffles Thai—labels this new at New York City’s NoMad. BROOKLYN centers of food ferment. We all OAKLAND style ‘blendo cuisine.’ ” PORTLAND want to be Brooklynites now. —FROM “WHAT’S HOT FOR 1988”

Bacon Fixation The Grateful Palate’s Molecular chef Heston Chocolatier Vosges Burger King creates a sundae Dan Philips creates the first Blumenthal begins serving introduces Mo’s Milk with chocolate fudge, caramel Bacon of the Month club. egg-and-bacon ice cream Chocolate Bacon Bar, syrup, bacon crumbles and at the Fat Duck in England. sprinkled with smoked salt. a strip of bacon for dipping.

1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012

David Chang opens Momofuku Don Lee, a bartender at NYC’s Bacon shaving cream debuts. noodle bar in NYC; the pork buns PDT, infuses bourbon with Press release states: “Prepare and ramen with bacon dashi alter bacon fat for a porky take on to be loved, admired and

the course of many lives. an Old Fashioned cocktail. possibly eaten by bears.” angeles cedric photographs: arkle. peter illustrations: (chocolate), vosgeschocolate.com of courtesy (chang), (sundae) bkw of courtesy (cocktail), brown nick of courtesy

28 march 2013 foodandwine.com 35

“floribbean” cuisine southwestern food FOOD FADS In the late ’80s, F&W proclaimed “The Southwest is hot!” F&W that Floribbean food and exclaimed in 1987. This is THAT FADED 1 cocktails were here to stay. 2 still true; just not the food.

in 2002, giada de The Incredible laurentiis was an unknown. 3 creole Shrinking Plate � cajun 1985 In a land small plate 2007 Japanese Jambalaya boom & bust and gumbo of buffets and big snacking pubs, aka f^w portions, a new izakayas, take off discovered are classics, emeril but they’re trend arrives. F&W in the US. “American lagasse 1985 not “state writes: “The latest gastro izakayas in 1985. of the offer Japanese small word in eating art eating,” plates with multiculti is less. There are as F&W many names for twists,” reports F&W. reported the phenomenon— 2007 In a in 1989. grazing, noshing, TALENT WATCH newspaper article snacking—but we’re titled, “Is the Entrée EMERIL LAGASSE giving it another: Heading for THEN In 1985, F^W reported on Lagasse, the chef Littlemeals.” Extinction?” chef at New Orleans’s Commander’s Palace, calling Tom Colicchio says, him a “young man with a ready smile…and the 1985 F&W traces cool of an NFL quarterback.” the small-plates “I think the entrée has been in trouble NOW Founder of a restaurant empire; he has trend back to its his name on pans, pasta sauces and more. roots, with a story for a long time.” called “What’s 2009 The trend GRANT ACHATZ 4 All This We Hear sun-dried goes middlebrow, THEN As an assistant winemaker at La Jota tomatoes About Tapas?” as The Cheesecake winery, Achatz provided the recipes for a 1999 Along with Factory debuts F^W story about Cabernet Franc. 1997 Ferran Adrià’s Camembert a “Small Plates and NOW He’s the acclaimed avant-garde chef behind and pasta El Bulli earns its Snacks” menu with Chicago’s and Next restaurants. salad, a third Michelin star. Vietnamese tacos. talisman of Meals at the GIADA DE LAURENTIIS the high life modernist Spanish 2012 The New York THEN After she impressed F^W editors as a food from the restaurant involve 2012 Times publishes stylist on a photo shoot, the magazine profiled Reagan era. three dozen small “The Problem With the L.A. private chef in 2002 with her grandfather, bites and snacks. Small Plates.” movie producer Dino De Laurentiis. NOW She’s a Food Network megastar.

2006 2005 RENÉ REDZEPI “top chef” anthony bourdain’s THEN In the 2007 F^W story “Manifesto for “no reservations” a New Nordic Cuisine,” the chef at Noma in said, “This Nordic food movement is still in its infancy. If the energy [maintains], t her star e we’re pretty unstoppable.” 5 NOW Noma is ranked No. 1 on San Pellegrino’s baby World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. veggies 2001 1978 julia child’s rachael “julia child & company” Itty-bitty ray’s vegetables “30 minute meals” seem to 1994 WHAT?! reappear TV CHEF “the essence SAY on menus of emeril” (and in DEBUTS F&W) every “The age of backyard innocence, a time five years of Bermuda shorts, inspiration aprons or so. The and two-course meals of blackened hot last time was 2008. 1992 dogs followed by flaming marshmallows, “martha stewart is no more. Grilling has evolved into 2004 “iron living” 2011 “the chew” chef america” a culinary and social statement.” with chefs mario batali, —“OUR LONG HOT LOVE AFFAIR WITH GRILLING,” michael symon ALAN RICHMAN, AUGUST 1986 via bank photo nbcu laurentiis), (de thompson todd right), top (lagasse, bogertman ralph photographs: (the arkle. peter images getty via abc illustrations: (ray), images getty (child), images lee lockwood/getty (bourdain), lasala left) anthony bottom (simmons), images (lagasse, getty freeman steven of courtesy (stewart), images pictures/getty time & life (morimoto), © mascarucci/corbis chew), & carla hall

30 march 2013 foodandwine.com 35

NOSE Nose-to-Tail Eating TAIL F&W FAVORITES 1985 2002 2004 2007 2009 THEN & NOW

F&W promotes Chef Chris UK chef Fergus Bizarre Foods With April Bloomfield’s lamb breast, oxtail Cosentino opens Henderson Andrew Zimmern The Breslin opens, and veal shank Incanto in San publishes The debuts on TV; offering a special as “odd” but Francisco. Beef- Whole Beast, he eats raw pig whole-hog dinner affordable cuts heart tartare is a bible for the testicles on the featuring an entire of meat. often on the menu. innards-eating set. premiere episode. suckling pig.

WHAT?! Cocktail Culture SAY 1978 THE PRE-MIXOLOGY ERA “The old barnyard bird has made a daniel boulud 1990 In its first year,F^W publishes a recipe for comeback. This time around it is called a classic cocktail every single month, from free-range chicken. It has mystique. It the piña colada to the gin ramos fizz. has panache. But, basically, the chicken of the moment is simply the chicken that MID-1980s THE DARK AGES [we] used to eat before technology set in.” Recipes for Day-Glo colored drinks in —MOLLY O’NEILL, “MUCH ADO ABOUT FREE-RANGE CHICKENS,” 1989 F^W regularly call for sour mix, Midori and banana liqueur. “Fajitas are the quiches of the Eighties. 1989 THE PURIST BACKLASH Too bad: A good fajita is delicious.” —JOHN F. MARIANI, “WHAT’S HOT FOR 1987” In F^W’s “No-Nonsense Cocktails,” John G. Mitchell writes, “By my calculations, there are only seven classic cocktails.” “No more yuppie bashing. Yuppies have tom colicchio taken a beating lately, and it’s got to stop. 1996 EARLY 2000s ENTER THE BAR CHEF Without yuppies, there would be no trendy Led by drinks legend Dale DeGroff, a new restaurants, no grazing, no designer generation of bartenders brings chef-like pizza [or] mesquite-grilled fish. There attention to mixing cocktails. would be no civilization as we know it.” —STANLEY DRY, “WHAT I HOPE ISN’T ON THE MENU IN 1986” 2005–2006 MIXOLOGY MANIA In 2005, F^W launches a new annual cocktail-recipe book; we declare 2006 the Year of the Cocktail.

2012 LIVING ON PLANET COCKTAIL F^W’s constant cocktail coverage includes

negronis on tap, barrel-aged cocktails, danny meyer artisanal tonic syrups and small-batch gins. 1995

POP QUIZ: “WHAT YEAR DID WE SAY...?” “This year’s news is that breakfast is the “Up and down the West Coast, “Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s wines 1 biggest draw in the restaurant business… 2 aficionados of the perfect cup take 3 have never caught on in it can even persuade people to stand in line.” fine coffee as seriously as fine wine.” or abroad.”

A 1986 B 2003 C 1996 A 1999 B 1992 C 1979 A 1978 B 2001 C 1989

illustrations: peter arkle. photographs: fran collin (boulud, top), peter medelik (boulud, bottom), bill bill bottom), (boulud, medelik peter top), (boulud, collin fran photographs: arkle. peter illustrations: bottom) (meyer, ellen silverman top), (meyer, romano michael & bottom), top (colicchio, bettencourt 3 2 1 ANSWERS: B B, A,

32 march 2013 foodandwine.com B:3.125” T:2.625” S:2”

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RECIPE Vegetable Rainbow Salad 1. In a small saucepan of salted boiling page 25 water, blanch the pearl onions for 3 min- active: 1 hr; total: 4 hr utes. Drain the onions and cool them 6 servings under running water. Slip off the skins This salad from F&W’s Grace Parisi bril- and pack the onions into a small heat- liantly combines some of the most exciting proof jar. Pack each type of radish into food trends of 2013 into one amazing separate small heatproof jars. In the recipe—pickled vegetables, uncommon same saucepan, combine ¾ cup of the produce, ancient grains and a cross- rice vinegar with the sugar, 2 table - cultural dressing that includes miso and spoons of salt and 1 cup of water and chipotle chile in adobo. If ingredients like bring to a boil. Pour the hot brine over lime radishes and baby orange cauliflower the jarred onions and radishes and let aren’t available at your farmers’ market, stand at room temperature for 3 hours. use equal quantities of similar vegetables. 2. Preheat the oven to 400°. Place the beets and carrots on 2 separate sheets 6 purple pearl onions, of foil and drizzle them with 2 table - root ends trimmed spoons of the olive oil. Fold up the edges 6 small red radishes, tops trimmed of the foil sheets to make two sealed to ¬ inch and radishes halved packets. Rub the sweet potato with veg- lengthwise etable oil, prick it all over with a fork and 2 small lime radishes, set it on a sheet of foil. In a medium bak- sliced ¼ inch thick ing dish, toss the cauliflower and broccoli 1 medium watermelon radish, florets with the remaining 1 tablespoon

halvedB:11.125” lengthwise and sliced of olive oil. Roast the cauliflower and S:9.75” T:10.5” crosswise ¼ inch thick broccoli for about 12 minutes, the sweet 1 cup unseasoned rice vinegar potato for about 30 minutes and the car- 2 tablespoons sugar rots and beets for about 35 minutes, until Kosher salt they are all tender. Let the roasted veg- 10 baby beets of varying colors etables cool slightly. (about 6 ounces), scrubbed 3. Using paper towels, rub off the beet 5 medium carrots of varying colors and carrot skins; quarter the beets and (about 6 ounces), tops trimmed halve the carrots. Peel the sweet potato 3 tablespoons extra-virgin and cut it into ½-inch-thick rounds. olive oil 4. In a mini food processor or blender, 1 small purple sweet potato puree the chipotle chile with the yellow (about 4 ounces) miso paste, honey and the remaining ½ cup vegetable oil, plus ¼ cup of rice vinegar. With the machine more for rubbing on, add the ½ cup of vegetable oil in a 3 heads baby orange cauliflower thin stream and process until emulsified. (6 ounces total), cut into Season the dressing with salt. ¾-inch florets 5. Drain the pickled vegetables. Slice the ½ small head Romanesco broccoli pearl onions ¼ inch thick. In a serving (about ‹ pound), cut into bowl, combine the pickled and roasted ¾-inch florets vegetables with the escarole, pea shoots 1 small chipotle chile in adobo and cooked black quinoa. Add ¼ cup of 1 tablespoon yellow miso paste the dressing and toss gently. Serve the 1 tablespoon honey salad right away, passing the remaining 4 cups escarole (from about dressing on the side. 2 heads)—tender white and make ahead The pickles and roasted light green leaves only, cut vegetables can be stored in the refrig- into bite-size pieces erator separately overnight. 1 cup pea shoots wine Zesty Italian white: 2011 Jankara ½ cup cooked black quinoa Vermentino di Gallura. •

34 march 2013 foodandwine.com

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