Jamaica Birding and Nature Hotel Mocking Bird Hill & the Cockpit Country February 22-29, 2016

P.O. Box 16545 Portal, AZ 85632 Phone 520.558.1146/558.7781 Toll free 800.426.7781 Fax 650.471.7667 Email [email protected] [email protected]

Despite its sometimes roguish image, Jamaica is a beautiful, accessible and safe birding country, with a range of locations almost as intoxicating as the island’s rum. Between the Cockpit Country, the Blue and John Crow Mountains and Port Antonio, you can see many of the 28 species endemic to Jamaica, more than any other Caribbean island. Jamaica has some of the highest diversity in the Caribbean, with a recorded tally of 265 different species of birds.

Jamaica has the highest number of endemics for any island of its size, even more than neighboring Cuba, an island ten times bigger. This is due to Jamaica’s oceanic origins, never having been connected to any other landmass. Although Jamaica is best known for beaches, coffee and reggae, this island has a huge amount to offer naturalists: it ranks fifth in biodiversity amongst the world’s islands, and many of its animal & plant species are not to be found anywhere else in the world.

Since 1990 Jamaica has increased the number and quality of its national parks, recognizing the global importance of its rare species. For those birders looking to explore this Caribbean paradise, the less developed & tranquil Northeast of the island, where the coffee-growing Blue Mountains meet the warm Caribbean Sea, provides an exclusive safe home to Jamaican Endemics & Caribbean Endemics, and is the ultimate area to explore.

Higher than any Eastern United States mountain range, the Blue Mountains act as perfect nesting beacons for many species during December through to April, Jamaica’s dry season, when you can get to Naturalist Journeys, LLC / Caligo Ventures PO Box 16545 Portal, AZ 85632 PH: 520.558.1146 / 800.426.7781 Fax 650.471.7667www.naturalistjourneys.com / www.caligo.com [email protected] / [email protected]

see warblers escaping the Northern Hemisphere’s winter and southern migrants begin to arrive.

Nestled into seven acres of lush tropical hillside in the quiet, historic town of Port Antonio at the base of the Blue Mountains is Hotel Mocking Bird Hill, Jamaica’s No.1 eco-chic hotel. The hotel itself is listed in the book Birds of the West Indies by G. Michael Flieg & Allan Sander as “one of the best places for bird watching in Jamaica” due to its low-density housing, small woodlots and extensive, bio-dynamic gardens – the perfect birding environment, and the base & host for the birding tours related in this booklet. Flowering shrubs attract such species as the Black-billed Streamertail and the treed sections hold both Chestnut-bellied and Jamaican Lizard Cuckoos, to name but a few.

A comfortably intimate 10-room hotel, with light and airy rooms, Hotel Mocking Bird Hill’s panoramic views of the Blue Mountains and Caribbean Sea are particularly inspiring at sunset when martini-on-fire skies are the perfect way to relax, Sundowner Cocktail in hand after a successful day’s birding. Mille Fleurs, the in-house farm-to-table restaurant recently voted ‘Jamaica’s Best Kept Secret’ by the Jamaican Observer, provides delicious Euro-Jamaican fusion food, accompanied by the calls of Jamaican Owl from the surrounding forests.

It’s the perfect base for combining the pleasures of a Caribbean vacation (i.e. pristine beaches: Frenchman’s Cove beach is just a complimentary 10-minute shuttle away) with exploration of an exceptional island. The hotel even boasts a purpose-built “perch” to allow guests to enjoy panoramic views and bird-spotting opportunities, whilst ensuring that they also get all those little eco-luxuries on offer.

We combine a stay at Hotel Mocking Bird Hill with four nights based in the Sussex area: our first three nights, and then a final night to position to the airport. NEW this year to our Jamaica itinerary; we like the routing as we can offer guided birding in the Cockpit country, a carst limestone region important to conservation and a stronghold for the endemic species in Jamaica, as well as areas east of Hotel Mockingbird Hill in the John Crow Mountains. By having two endemic-rich areas to work with, plus birding at the hotspot of Hardwar Gap, we enjoy great birding as well as lovely hospitality and scenery.

Birdwatching for Jamaica’s 28 Endemics

This week-long birdwatching tour is organized by Caligo Ventures in partnership with Hotel Mocking Bird Hill, who in turn connect us with local birding experts. The goal is to make sure you see most, if not all, of the island’s 28 endemic bird species, including the Jamaican Owl, Jamaican Mango, Jamaican Becard, Jamaican Tody and more. We’ve also allowed for down time, a day of choices so you can opt for a relaxing vacation.

You will explore a variety of habitats, including montane

Naturalist Journeys, LLC / Caligo Ventures PO Box 16545 Portal, AZ 85632 PH: 520.558.1146 / 800.426.7781 Fax 650.471.7667www.naturalistjourneys.com / www.caligo.com [email protected] / [email protected]

and rainforest, quiet rivers and lush valleys. Alongside discovering Jamaica’s unique bird species, discover the island’s flora including a variety of ferns, butterflies, orchids (66 endemic species) bromeliads and other unusual genera, and fauna, such as the Venus lizard. Enjoy walks on mountain trails, imbibe the local culture and take time to relax on the beach or go snorkeling. This adventure is a great opportunity to combine the tropical pleasures of a Caribbean vacation with the exploration of a truly unique island.

Many of the endemics are among the island’s commonest species, including the White-chinned Thrush, the Jamaican Woodpecker and the delightful Jamaican Tody. The Tody, from a unique Caribbean family, looks like a hummingbird on steroids, and goes by the local name of ‘robin redbreast’ (see note for some other interesting local names!).

The official bird names are just as weird and wonderful. Bananaquit, Orangequit and the Jamaican Mango make up a veritable fruit salad, whilst the Jamaican Euphonia fails to live up to its melodious name, sounding instead like a car trying to start. In addition to its unique bird species, discover Jamaica’s flora, including a variety of ferns, butterflies, orchids (66 endemic species) bromeliads and other unusual flora. Enjoy walks on mountain trails, local culture and time to relax on the beach or to go snorkeling.

ITINERARY

Mon., Feb. 22 ARRIVAL IN MONTEGO BAY / Transfer to Cockpit Country

You will be met at the airport, outside of Customs and Immigration. Look for a driver carrying a sign with your name on it, in the public greeting area outside of Customs and Immigration.

The drive along Jamaica’s north shore is a scenic one, passing several villages en route to St. Ann’s Bay. It is about an hour and a half’s drive, so you should reach there in time to settle in and relax after your travels. You will be met by a driver of a shuttle service that works regularly with this hotel, and travel in an air-conditioned mini-van with space for you and your baggage. If you wish to stop for photos, this is fine!

Sussex, Accommodations at Sussex (D)

Tues., Feb. 23 Guided Birding in Cockpit Country (Mid-level limestone forest)

This morning is an early start for a high-reward full guided birding day. Turning inland from the coast at Duncan’s or Brown’s Town, you will drive through rural countryside, passing cane fields or pastures, sleepy villages or bustling towns. Eventually a winding country Naturalist Journeys, LLC / Caligo Ventures PO Box 16545 Portal, AZ 85632 PH: 520.558.1146 / 800.426.7781 Fax 650.471.7667www.naturalistjourneys.com / www.caligo.com [email protected] / [email protected]

road takes you up into the hills on the eastern edge of Jamaica’s largest wilderness, the Cockpit Country. The drive is about an hour and fifteen minutes long.

Here, you will park and walk along a deep rural road within the rugged, hilly terrain, meeting farmers on foot, donkeys and bicycles, but no cars. A great variety of birds can be seen here, including the elusive Crested Quail-dove, two endemic species of Jamaican parrots, the Ring-tailed Pigeon and a good number of other endemic forest species. Migrants are plentiful during the winter months.

Return with some time to enjoy relaxation at your hotel. Accommodations at Sussex (B,L,D)

Wed., Feb. 24 Guided Birding in the Lime Hill area and Coastal Uplands from Sussex (Mid-level secondary forest / pasture)

Your local birding guide and driver will meet you in the hotel lobby this morning after breakfast. You will be birding up in the hills above the historic town of St. Ann’s Bay, in a large private property where you walk along private dirt roads that wind up and down through moist limestone forest, descending at mid- point in the walk to a stream in a deep ravine. The birding site is close, about a half hour’s drive.

Typical forest birds, including the Jamaican Tody, migrant wood-warblers and the Chestnut-bellied Cuckoo may be seen here. There are spectacular views of the coast, too.

After lunch we visit some local birding hotspots in and around the Ochos Rios area. This is a good place to find West Indian Whistling Duck and some other water-associated species. Accommodations at Sussex (B,L,D)

Thurs., Feb. 25 Transfer to Port Antonio / Islington at St. Mary / Buff Bay / Hotel Mocking Bird Hill

Today we travel east along the Coast, stopping to bird near St. Mary at Islington. Here an easy walk alongside a banana plantation gives us good opportunity to find Jamaican Mango and other species such as Olive-throated Parakeet, Red-billed Streamertail, Sad and Rufous-tailed Flycatchers, Greater Antillean Bullfinch, Jamaican Pewee and Jamaican Euphonia.

We enjoy lunch at a popular Jamaican restaurant in Buff Bay, and then continue to our delightful lodgings above Port Antonio, Hotel Mocking Bird Hill. You should have time to enjoy the pool, bird the gardens, and get settled in. Dining here is a real treat.

In the evening, listen and look for Jamaican Owl just outside your door! Accommodations at Hotel Mocking Bird Hill (B,L,D)

Fri., Feb. 26 Guided Birding Ecclesdown Road of the John Crow Mountains National Park / Long Bay

Plan on an early morning departure with packed breakfast, accompanied by a local Bird Guide to Ecclesdown Road, with optional trip to the Reach Falls for a cooling dip in a natural pool by the falls if you wish. You can also stop for a stroll and swim on the stunning white sand beach of Long Bay, where you enjoy a restaurant lunch.

You are driven to Ecclesdown at the foothills of the John Crow Mountains with a packed breakfast. Spend the morning walking along a forested road where a number of endemic birds can be seen including Black-billed and Yellow-billed Parrots, Jamaican Becard, Jamaican Oriole, and Jamaican Crow.

Back at the hotel in the afternoon your guide will lead you around the hotel’s lushly vegetated grounds. At day’s end, enjoy another engaging evening of dinner and conversation at this beautifully situated hotel, with your hosts. Accommodations at Hotel Mockingbird Hill (B, L at Long Bay, D)

Sat., Feb. 27 Free Day! Leisurely Breakfast / San San Area Birding / Frenchman’s Cove Beach Option / Rio Grande River Rafting Option

Today is designed to be a day of choice. You can have fun at your leisure. Some may elect to just enjoy the hotel and gardens where birding is quite good. Birding in the nearby San San area is most enjoyable and can be done on your own via a vehicle drop-off; this is a residential area accessed by a long, shaded road through lush forest. Enjoy birding at leisure (self-guided), typically 1-3 hours, and when you are finished, you simply walk across the street to Frenchman’s Cove for an afternoon at Jamaica’s prettiest white sand beach. Enjoy a swim and the beach at leisure. Or, ask to return to the hotel.

Another option, after a delightful Mocking Bird Hill breakfast, is to take off for a scenic rafting adventure on the Rio Grande. Originally these rafts were used to transport bananas; then Port Antonio’s most famous resident, the movie star Errol Flynn, made raft rides popular by challenging visitors to race down the Rio Grande. This “pièce de résistance” sounds decidedly dangerous - but it is not. You just drift down the river on two-person rafts enjoying close-up views of some of the herons.

Take a relaxing trip on these two-seater bamboo rafts, lazily floating down this mostly quiet, scenic river to get close looks at herons, egrets, kingfishers and possibly some shorebirds. There will be Belted Kingfisher, Spotted and other sandpipers along the river, while Turkey Vultures drift overhead on stiffly-held wings sometimes accompanied by other raptors. Not only is this a very pleasant experience in terms of enjoying the landscape, but this also offers a good opportunity to see some of the water birds, particularly Snowy and Little Blue Herons. Lunch is served at a stop on the river for lunch at Miss Belinda’s, another chance for authentic Jamaican food. Bring some cash if you want to augment this with a nice cold beer, bought early on the river from a floating raft bar. Accommodations at Hotel Mocking Bird Hill, where dinner is always a treat! (B, lunch at leisure, D)

Sun., Feb. 28 Guided Birding at Hardwar Gap in Jamaica’s Blue Mountains

Your route from High Hope is past Ocho Rios along the main north coast highway until Buff Bay, and then you take the road from there to Hardwar Gap and Newcastle. This is about an hour and a half, and then your birding begins. The route up into the mountains is highly scenic, another 45 minutes or so, and there is a rest break at Newcastle or when needed. I recommend you take a packed lunch from your hotel so you can bird as you wish, there is a nice picnic area. If you prefer to stop en route back down the mountain for a late lunch, the driver can select a nice spot for you in Buff Bay. It is about 45 minutes then from there to the hotel.

On this day, you will be birding in Jamaica’s famed Blue Mountains. In lush forests, listen to the beautiful dawn chorus, especially the flute-like call of the elusive Rufous- throated Solitaire. This is one of the best places to find the elusive and endangered Jamaican Blackbird, which feeds on insects associated with bromeliads. The lush vegetation also affords looks at higher-elevation species such as Arrowhead Warbler, White-eyed Thrush, Jamaican Becard, Blue Mountain Vireo, Jamaican Pewee, and more. Jamaican Tody can also be found, often quiet and close as if posing for photos.

End the day with a rich cup of fresh Jamaican coffee at the Old Tavern Coffee Estate before returning to Hotel Mocking Bird Hill in Port Antonio. We then continue to the west, heading for Sussex and our final night. Enjoy birding on the grounds of our small inn there. Celebrate a great week on one of the Caribbean’s most beautiful islands at our final dinner!

Accommodations in the Sussex area (B,L,D)

Mon., Feb. 29 Departures . Our plan is to have an early breakfast, if time some birding on the grounds, and head back to the airport for flights out after Noon.

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Cost of the Journey Cost of the main journey is $2690.00 per person, based on double occupancy, from Montego Bay Sangster International Airport, Jamaica (MBJ). This tour cost includes: accommodations for 7 nights, all meals with the exception of one free lunch, as specified in the itinerary (B=breakfast, L=lunch, D=dinner), airport welcome and transfer or hotel shuttle, land transportation during the journey, professional guide services, park and other entrance fees, and miscellaneous program expenses. Single supplement $670.00.

Costs does not include: round-trip airfare to and from Jamaica, items of a personal nature such as laundry, telephone, drinks from the bar; or gratuities for luggage handling or personal services. It does not include the free day option for rafting (great fun!) which can be added for an additional $80 which includes transport and lunch. The tour is priced for a group of 6 persons, and with a group of 7 or more an additional guide will be added. With fewer than 6 participants, we will give you the option to confirm your plans for a small additional cost.

Group Size: This tour is planned for a small group of 6-8 persons, plus your guides.

Travel Planning Plan to arrive in Montego Bay, Jamaica (Sangster International Airport) February 22nd, by 3PM if possible. Several major airlines serve Jamaica departing from several USA and Canadian hub cities. Plan to depart on flights from NOON onward on February 29th. If you see a later flight that is ideal for you, please ask us about a transfer. If you wish to extend your stay please talk with us for ideas.

Naturalist Journeys, LLC is an equal opportunity service provider and committed to the goal of ensuring equal opportunity for all in employment and program delivery.

Photo Credits: Yellow-billed Parrot by David Smith, Hotel photos courtesy of hotel, and all other photos by Peg Abbott.