ROUTE 66 Road Trip By Elaine Beebe Lapriore REDWOOD RAMBLE ’s Redwood Highway Winds Through a Land of Giants

Beneath a towering canopy, visitors to California’s redwood country connect with nature at every neck-craning turn, from the lush tree-studded landscape to the rich local bounty.

Photo courtesy of the Humboldt County Convention & Visitors Bureau.

 Scenic Route Vol.1 / No. 2 wonder ROUTE 66 Road Trip At Humboldt Redwoods State Park Visitor Center in here giants rule the and surfing are Weott, Charlie Brown, earth, the second popular pas- of Michigan, stands beside a tree that was most striking thing times, and local almost 900 years old is the calm. The foods draw when it died. When W most remarkable heavily on the this tree was a seed- thing is, of course, the incomparable land: produce, ling, the Magna Carta glory of the world’s tallest trees, from berries was signed. some more than 300 feet high and to hazelnuts to more than 2,000 years old. mushrooms. illusion, open year- But the ancient hush of the Seafood, espe- round) and a half forest lures you in its own way. cially oysters and salmon. Artisan hour train ride through old-growth It envelops you, beckons you to breads and cheeses made from the and second-growth forests (open hike into its wonders or to stroll milk of the region’s cows. Wine from Memorial Day through Labor Day). REDWOOD RAMBLE along its loamy floor: to inhale its local grapes. You’ll also see roadside shops sell- essence, gazing upward in awe. ing chain saw art: wooden sculptures, A trip to California’s Redwood Where it Begins often of a grizzly bear on its haunches, Coast is to bathe in nature. “It The gateway to the redwoods is the made from a log with a chain saw. If revitalizes your soul,” says town of Leggett, where Highway 1 and this piques your interest but it looks Sandy Ingraham, a lawyer 101 merge. The appropriate starting like a tight fit for your rig, rest assured from McLoud, Okla., travel- point is the Chandelier Drive-Thru Tree. there are several other stands with ing in a 19-foot Roadtrek 190 Never mind that the portion of this easier RV access further north on the motorhome. “We’ve come out 315-foot tree that you can actually Avenue of the Giants. here once a year for the past drive through is merely 6 foot by 6 Another landmark is French’s Camp, 20 years.” foot by 9: “We see motorhomes by nine miles south of Garberville, which Sandy’s travel partner, Nina the dozen,” says the man at the gate has hosted the Reggae On the River Rowland, agrees. “A friend accepting the $3 admission fee. How music festival every August for the once told me that coming many of those dozens he sees making past 20 years. For more information, to the redwood country it through is another matter. But it’s see www.reggaeontheriver.com. would make me feel totally the thought that counts. There’s RV insignificant. I think it’s the parking near the famed tree, with a gift Benbow opposite. We were stand- shop and pleasant picnic area. Tired of roughing it already? Benbow ing in the redwood forest As you head north from Leggett, the Valley RV Resort and Golf Course, an and I felt totally signifi- first several miles of Highway 101 are exit south of downtown Garberville, cant. Totally alive. Totally two-lane, somewhat steep and fairly offers a nine-hole golf course, pool, inspired.” curvy. Don’t worry; the bulk of the laundry, wi-fi wireless Internet access In far northwestern journey north to Arcata is easier going. and one of the region’s finest restaurants California, nature’s boun- This section of 101 is home to just a short walk away. ty extends beyond the many of the redwoods’ old-fashioned Cathleen Rafferty and her husband, world’s tallest trees; it roadside attractions. Opened in 1949, Phil, live in nearby Arcata; they decid- permeates the lifestyle. Confusion Hill hosts the “World ed to stop here on their way home from Hiking, fishing, birding Famous Gravity House” (an optical a trip to Monterey, Calif., with their 2003 26-foot Timberlodge trailer. “We’ve driven by here a num- ber of times, and this time we said, ‘Let’s stop on our way home,’ ” said

The Chandelier Drive-Thru Tree in Leggett, near the intersection of Highways 1 and 101, is a fine place to start your redwood journey north. The tree is 315 feet high but its snug thruway is only 6 foot by 6 foot by 9.

Main photo: Hiking trails for all skill levels abound in parks throughout this verdant cathedral of ancient redwoods.

 Scenic Route wonder Vol.1 / No. 2 The Immortal Tree pull-off on the Open since 1949, the mysterious Al and Lyn Fleming of Edmonton, Avenue of the Giants boasts this hol- Confusion Hill, in Piercy, is just one Alberta, arrived at Benbow Valley lowed-out trunk, which is big enough of the Redwood Highway’s many RV Resort in their 40-foot Monaco to explore inside and out. roadside attractions. Diplomat along with dogs Pebble (the Yorkie) and Tia (the Shih Tzu).

Cathleen, who teaches education The lodge contains a small but The inn serves breakfast and din- at Humboldt State University. “I well-stocked grocery store, a pro ner (brunch on weekends); lunch is would definitely come back. The shop for golfers, showers, modem served in the summer only, on the setting is beautiful, in this nice access and a lounge with a large, patio. For dinner, reservations are valley, and the grounds are really inviting fireplace. Nearby Benbow suggested and appropriate attire is well-maintained.” Lake offers swimming in summer requested (no jeans, t-shirts, sneakers, Of Benbow Valley’s 112 full months and canoeing and kayak- flip-flops or similarly casual garb). hookup sites with cable TV, 55 are ing year-round. Winter is the best Benbow Inn is closed from pull-through; some have a phone con- season for fishing, when the steel- New Year’s until the Friday before nection. Sites are $27.78 per night; head run. Easter. The rest of the year, it’s $25 for senior citizens. A short footpath links the RV open for lodging and dining and park to the Benbow Inn, a Tudor also hosts special events, from a mansion on the National Register Christmas Day dinner to jazz in of Historic Places that’s been a June. In August, see Shakespeare Route 66 destination since its 1926 open- performances by starlight along Regional ROUTE 66 ing. Old Hollywood came up here nearby Benbow Lake (www.shake- RV Network Dealers: to enjoy the fishing, riding sta- spearebenbow.com). All Seasons RV 3300 Colusa Hwy. bles and boating on the : Yuba City, CA 95993 Spencer Tracy, Clark Gable and Avenue (530) 671-9070 Joan Fontaine, as well as Eleanor of the Giants Pan Pacific RV Center Roosevelt and Herbert Hoover. All these comforts are nice, but 252 W. Yettner Rd. French Camp, CA 95231 As the inn and RV park share it’s the scenery that’s the star of (209) 234-2000 ownership, they offer a seamless redwood country’s show.

Pan Pacific RV Center resort experience. You can pull in “The scenery is what we’re Photo courtesy of the Humboldt 2020 Taylor Road to the RV park and charge the after,” says Al Fleming of County Convention & Visitors Bureau. Roseville, CA 95678 (916) 782-3178 resort’s amenities to your bill: most Edmonton, Alberta. That’s why he notably, a meal on the inn’s patio or and wife Lyn, on their way home you’re plunging into the forest, with Pan Pacific RV Center 1104 El Camino Ave. in its dining room, which the Wine from Arizona, have diverted to the its deep, primordial woody smell. Sacramento, CA 95815 Spectator gave a nod in 2004. redwood country in their 40-foot The avenue offers plenty of pull-off (916) 927-1853 Chef Marci Bame offers elegant Monaco Diplomat motorhome. areas if you want a closer look. Redding RV Center dishes, incorporating local ingre- And for scenery, you can’t beat “We have big forests back home, 4850 Westside Rd./Hwy. 273 Redding, CA 96001 dients whenever possible, such as the Avenue of the Giants. Roughly but we’ve never seen such big (530) 243-3461 salmon, steelhead, organic baby parallel to Highway 101 from trees,” Al says. “It’s such beautiful Redding RV Center greens and cheeses. Cypress Grove Phillipsville to Pepperwood, this country, and so good to be off I-5. 2425 Cascade Blvd. goat cheese graces a caramel- 30-mile road winds through more A few very small towns surface Redding, CA 96003 (888) 895-8932 ized shallot tart; Point Reyes blue than 52,000 acres of Humboldt along the drive. Myers Flat, the cheese appears atop a grilled New Redwoods State Park, 17,000 biggest of the bunch with a popula- Sierra RV Sales & Rentals 9125 S. Virginia St. York strip steak and in a spinach acres of which are old growth. tion of 630, boasts another drive- Reno, NV 89511 salad with apples, toasted walnuts The magnificent trees are so close through tree. This one, the Shrine, (775) 324-0522 and applewood-smoked bacon. to the side of the road, it feels like has an aperture that’s 7 feet square.  Scenic Route Vol.1 / No. 2 good eats, great sites: - Arcata Marsh and Wildlife Sanctuary, Arcata - Avenue of the Giants, Phillipsville to Pepperwood - Benbow Inn, Garberville - Café Marina, Eureka - Chandelier Drive-Thru Tree, Leggett - Clark Historical Museum, Eureka - Curley’s Grill, Ferndale - Humboldt Redwoods State Park Visitor Center, Weott - Loleta Cheese Factory, Loleta - Manila Dunes, Manila - Philly Cheese Steak Shoppe, Eureka and Arcata - Samoa Cookhouse, Samoa - Wildberries Marketplace, Arcata - Woodley Island Marina, Eureka

ing a short film, and a great book- You can also view a felled giant. filled gift shop. Guided walks are In 1991, the 362-foot Dyerville available by appointment. Giant fell to the ground; its The center maintains a running root base is an amazing 35 feet. list of wildlife sightings in the for- Founders’ Grove’s parking lot has est. A sampling from the first three a large vehicle turnaround. months of this year included black bear, gray fox, red-tailed hawk, red- In Town shouldered hawk, golden eagle and Humboldt County natives are bald eagle. a dichotomous bunch — loggers, Outside the visitors’ center lies hippies and Native Americans — a cross-section of a tree that was each group with its own powerful almost 900 years old when it died. relationship to the land. Its rings are marked with small The area is sparsely populated,

majestic flags with dates in history. When especially by California standards: this tree was a seedling, we learn, 126,000 in the whole county. The 77-acre Sequoia Park, in Eureka, offers towering redwood groves and the Magna Carta was signed. The Humboldt’s largest town, Eureka, lush terrain accented by wildflowers and ferns, picnic areas, a playground, tree’s diameter is 9 feet. has fewer than 30,000 residents. formal garden and duck pond. “Up the road, there’s an even Depending on your interests, There’s also the Taste of Humboldt Fork of the Eel River. bigger one,” visitor Charlie Brown the smaller towns south of Eureka gift shop, full of local comestibles, Two other campgrounds in the of Michigan points out. “It’s 12 might be worth a stop. Scotia is and Riverbend Cellars wine-tasting forest are open during the summer feet across.” among the few remaining company- room. There’s ample RV parking. season. All are $15 per night; $13 And so there is, four miles north. owned logging towns, with historic You can camp in the park right for senior citizens. For reservations, The namesake tree in Founders’ wood buildings and a small muse- under the redwood canopy, if your call Reserve America at (800) 444- Grove launched the Save the um. RV parking is easiest at Hoby’s rig is shorter than 33 feet. Burlington 7275 or see their website, www. Redwood League in 1918. The pres- Market and Deli, just a few steps Campground is open year-round, reserveamerica.com. ervation group raises funds to buy from Scotia’s sights. with 57 sites, hot showers, fire rings, Next door to the Burlington redwood lands, then deeds the land Antique shops line the main hiking trails; it’s a short walk from Campground, the visitors’ center to federal and state government to street of Ferndale, five miles west swimming and fishing in the South has a wide array of exhibits, includ- become parks and nature preserves. of 101, many in Victorian houses  Scenic Route Vol.1 / No. 2 A Marsh Egret steps lightly through wetlands. Home to 150 species of bird life, the Arcata Marsh and Wildlife Sanctuary draws birders from around the world.

Sandy Ingraham (left) and Nina Rowland (right) of McLoud, Okla., have driven a Roadtrek to California’s redwood country for the past 20 years. This spring, dog Molly joined them at the Benbow harmonyValley RV Resort, Garberville.

Scattered throughout the redwood forest are more than 100 memorial groves, dedicated to those who helped save the giant trees. In the shadow of ancient redwoods, hiking is seasonable year-round.

10 Scenic Route Vol.1 / No. 2 A Marsh Egret steps lightly through wetlands. Home to 150 species of bird life, the Arcata Marsh and Wildlife Sanctuary draws birders from around Mansion on Humboldt Bay. A few blocks north on 101/ the world. Old Town Eureka, the newly Fifth Street, the Co- gentrified waterfront along the bay, op sells organic groceries, many Sandy Ingraham (left) and Nina Rowland (right) boasts antique stores, restaurants locally made products and produce. of McLoud, Okla., have driven a Roadtrek to California’s redwood country for the past 20 years. and little shops. Its narrow streets In March, locally harvested oys- This spring, dog Molly joined them at the Benbow aren’t suitable for big rigs, though. ters sold for $6 and $8 per dozen. Valley RV Resort, Garberville. Three major Indian tribes call Eureka also has a Safeway and Humboldt County home: the Wiyot, Costco off 101. Yurok and Hoopa. To learn more Woodley Island Marina is a nice restored in icing-sweet pastel hues. about them, visit the Clark Historical detour with docks full of boats. The town offers RV parking Museum on the corner of Third and HumBoats rents canoes, kayaks two blocks from downtown; just E Streets. The and sailboats, plus guides. Its res- harmony follow the signs. For a sit-down Indian Development Council gift taurant, Café Marina, serves break- meal, Curley’s Grill serves a shop on F Street sells Native-made fast, lunch and dinner and offers the wide range of dishes in a dining gifts, such as pottery, baskets, jew- catch of the day (often for sale on room with Victorian touches; the elry and art. the docks as well). friendly servers are happy to offer Downtown but right on 101 Just north of Eureka lies Arcata, tourist advice. North/Fifth Street (at G Street), home of Humboldt State University In Loleta, the Loleta Cheese the Philly Cheese Steak Shoppe and Wildberries, the area’s best Factory offers daily demonstrations is worth a stop for homesick gourmet grocery, with a full range of and tastings of their 24 varieties of Philadelphians. The restaurant ships take-out and a branch of Ramone’s Cheddar and Monterey Jack. its key ingredients from Philly, bakery and coffee shop inside. Eureka is mostly a place to fuel including Amoroso rolls, and it From April to November, up and stock the larder, but there also sells the delectable Tastykake Arcata’s town square hosts a farm- are a few attractions. Its restored snack cakes. There’s even a replica ers market at 9 a.m. on Saturdays; Victorian homes include the Carter Liberty Bell. parking may be a challenge.

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Reader Inquiry #113 Photo courtesy of the Humboldt 11 County Convention & Visitors Bureau. Scenic Route Vol.1 / No. 2 2005 FORMED BY RELENTLESS SEISMIC UPHEAVAL. FLATTENED BY 400 HORSES. ©2004 Winnebago Industries, Inc. Industries, Winnebago ©2004

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Reader Inquiry #114 where to stay: —Benbow Valley RV Resort & Golf Course, Garberville, (707) 923-2777 or (866) BENBOWRV —Dean Creek Resort, Redway, (707) 923-2555 —Giant Redwoods RV and Camp, Myers Flat, allure (707) 943-3198 enjoyed spectacular ocean views in —Humboldt Redwoods State Park, (707) 946-2409 Mendocino County and can antici- for information/Reserve America, (800) 444-7275 pate lovely beaches in Trinidad, for reservations (33-foot maximum length) Redwoods River Resort & Campground, Leggett, just north of Arcata, where puffins — (707) 925-6249 are known to romp on the rocks. —Richardson Grove State Park, Garberville, The Eureka area does have a few (707) 247-3318 (30-foot maximum length) waterfront diversions on the south —Riverwalk RV Park and Campground, Fortuna, spit that divides Humboldt Bay (800) 705-5359 or (707) 725-3359 Samoa Boat Ramp, Samoa, (707) 445-7651 from the ocean. — —Eureka KOA, (707) 822-4243 Opened in the 1890s, the Samoa Cookhouse is worth a stop for the his- tory as much as the food. The West’s Gibert of Redding, who’s staying Manila just a few miles north. “I’ve Off the beaten path, the Victorian last surviving cookhouse, all meals at the adjacent campground in his never seen so much sand with no Village of Ferndale stands as an are served family-style; there’s a his- 30-foot Komfort trailer with his one on it,” she marvels. “You should architectural showcase. In order to tory museum, too. The cookhouse wife, Sally. plan for a day there. explore the nearby coastline, a tow offers ample RV parking. He gestures around a near-empty “Stop at the community center, vehicle is firmly recommended. Traveling down the spit, Samoa lot. “It gets crazy down here: all the and just walk west, and don’t give Dunes Recreation Area is home to motorcycles and quads. Sometimes up,” she advises. “And remember For a sense of the activism the both an endangered plant area (40 they let people park down the where you put in, so you can find area is known for, visit the North acres) and off-highway vehicle ter- middle, add an extra row, with no your way back.” [ Coast Environmental Center. For rain (215 acres). water hookup.” more than 30 years, this coali- “Fourth of July, Memorial Day, Sandy Ingraham, the Oklahoma tion has been at the center of the this place is packed,” says Bill lawyer, recommends the dunes at region’s environmental protection issues, including the redwoods, the 2005 rivers and endangered species. An international draw for birders PERMANENTLY CROSS is the Arcata Marsh and Wildlife “LADDER” OFF YOUR LIST Sanctuary. A former landfill that OF THINGS TO PACK. locals cleaned up, it’s now home to fish, native vegetation and more Our Smart Storage™ design than 150 species of birds and is on the Pacific Flyway. philosophy makes better use of available space and includes On Water The swath of land we’ve traveled everything from a slideout scout is part of California’s Redwood Coast, but in truth not much ocean- box to a special compartment front is RV-accessible. to store the foldout aluminum The old roads leading to the Lost Coast towns of Shelter Cove and ladder. These are just a few Petrolia are full of such hairpin of the many innovative features turns that no one we spoke to would recommend them for your available on select models, rig. If you’re towing a car, the drive only from Winnebago Industries. from 101 at Garberville to Shelter Cove is 25 miles, and takes at least SMARTSTORAGE an hour. Your reward is charter fishing and good fish and chips at the campground store. But feel free to concentrate on www.winnebagoind.com the inland portion. If you’re driv- ©2004 Winnebago Industries, Inc. ing up the coast, you’ve already Reader Inquiry #114 13 Scenic Route Vol.1 / No. 2