PÄYÄ

August & September 2018

Vol. 1 No. 4 $ 4.00 Mixed media island Cooper legacy dat - North shore of Helping coral grow canvas ing two centuries Roatan opens up one tree at a time 0. 00035

8 PÄYÄ The Roatan Lifestyle Magazine

August & September 2018 4 • Table of content & Masthead Fourth Issue

PERSPECTIVE 6 • Paya-in-Chief Freedom Versus Security 23 • Jon’s World Roatan and Black River 27 • Straight Talk Let The Sea be Our Wall

28 IN DEPTH 8 • Feature Island Shipbuilders 18 • Photo Story Coral Christmas Trees 16 22 • Business Road Works Galore 28 • Helping Hand Elementary Help 31 • Hidden Corners Oak Ridge Ramp 32 • Island Happenings The Eagle Has Docked

PROFILES 16 • Island Senior Eyes Looking East 20 • Island Artist Mixed Media Roatan 24 • Lyfestyle Socials

WANDERINGS 30 •Off Island News Off Island Perspective 34 •Calendar Yearly & Weekly Events

18 COVER PHOTO: “I call it the Sherman’s and James’s Junk Yard,” describes Sherman Arch his French Cay boat building operation (Photo by Thomas Tomczyk) STAFF Editorial Staff Copyright notice: Managing Editor Thomas Tomczyk Paya Magazine is published All text, graphics and photographs are Writer/reporter opening bi-monthly by Paya Mag S. A. copyright of Paya Magazine. All rights History writer Jon Tompson Roatan, reserved. No part of Paya Magazine can be Islande Perspective writer Keena Haylock reproduced in any form without written PayaMag.com permission of the publisher. Editor /Proofreader Michelle Widd [email protected] (504) 9764-5968 Editor's note: Support Staff The editorial content of Paya Magazine is Office Manager Gustavo Clymire independent from paid-for advertising. We Accouting Daneiry Samiento made every effort to ensure the accuracy Printer Lithopress Industrial of the information at the time of going to press, but assume no responsibility for Thanks to the many people that made the fourth edition of Paya Magazine possible: Kern errors or changes. Hyde, Rick Gaugh, Jessie Cooper, Nicky Schneider, Jen Irias, Victor Jones, Truman Jones, Leslie Gough. Alana Cooper, Keila Thompson, Lyonel Arch, Sherman Arch, Neil Keller, Julia Keller, Sharla Cooper Zelaya, Divemaster Gringo, and many more.

4 PÄYÄ MAGAZINE August & September 2018 PERSPECTIVE | Paya-in-Chief

THOMAS TOMCZYK FREEDOM VERSUS SECURITY

grew up in a place where apartments were pretty much count on government organizations to step in when things get assigned by the socialist government. The 11 storey 200 complicated. Here you have to work with your neighbors, meter long rectangle of a building where I grew up in friends, sometimes even with individuals you dislike in order to Warsaw, Poland brought together the strangest of neigh - solve issues at hand. bIors. There were national theater actors and authors, living in Roatan also teaches you humility. Living in a big city teaches identical apartments next to ex-farmers and government you that consequences of casual individual interactions have little informers. There was a sense of safety, provided you didn’t ask impact on the future, as it is very unlikely you will see that per - for much. You couldn’t travel to western countries, start a busi - son ever again. Not so on Roatan. Here we constantly run into ness nor criticize the government openly – it was a safe, gold- the same people and relationships do matter. plated prison cage. Living here teaches you to appreciate Benjamin Franklin warned that “those “Life on the island life. We are surrounded by often rugged who would give up essential liberty to coastline, and seas that offer up deluges purchase a little temporary safety teaches to be and occasional hurricanes. We are deserve neither.” The two extremes of plagued by power outages, ill-maintained security are anarchy and prison and not resourceful, to infrastructure, and never-ending traffic many of us would consider living in anticipate crisis” accidents that remind us how very fragile either of these extremes. life can be. For many of us living on Roatan, working toward and pre - Island life teaches you that answers to many questions should serving one’s sense of autonomy is very important. The pirates, and will not come from the tax funded, say-it-all and know- sailors, immigrants, desperados, divers, and ex-company men nothing government. The solutions to island problems will come that came here were often searching for that sense of freedom. from members of community itself. Here, dozens of functions This is why I like living in Honduras and on Roatan in particular. normally fulfilled by government agencies are fulfilled by good- You can be free and live in conditions that provide basic security, willed volunteers and donors feeling strongly about an issue. basic infrastructure, basic healthcare and basic order. Orwell In many places: , Europe, and the US, the public wrote that freedom “is the ability to say that two plus two is forum, fueled by rampant social media use, is becoming what four. All else will follow.” I think Roatan offers a unique place to philosopher Hobbs described as “war of all against all” – an state that basic math. ever increasing compartmentalization of groups and individu - Living on such an island teaches you many things though per - als into opposing fractions with differing points of view on haps the most important is self- reliance. I don’t mean self- things of increasingly less significant, but given increasing reliance as in an individual going it alone, I mean self-reliance in exposure. This has produced a reaction from the opposite side: the sense of a community relying on itself. We can’t rely on a surge in of authoritarian state and increasingly authoritarian things going right all the time, or on the government doing its regional state blocks: the Chinese state telling you if you can job, nor on Roatan skies unleashing only average rainfalls. Life on have a child, the European Union telling you what you can the island teaches us to be resourceful, to anticipate crises and to post on social media, the US telling you precisely what to do be prepared for them. When hurricane Mitch hit, many islanders and how to act in an airport. were prepared and had plenty of food to share. Island life teaches While visiting these places is nice, on Roatan two plus you to work with others as Roatan is not a place to be alone, or two is still four.

6 PÄYÄ MAGAZINE August & September 2018 IN DEPTH | feature

Lyonel Arch at his boat yard in French Cay. He has been building fiber glass boats since 1980s.

hen, history took a wild turn and an act of the British House of Commons changed the future of the Bay Islands. ISLAND SHIPBUILDERS TIn 1833 Britain passed the Slave Emancipation Act offering freedom to all slaves in the British Empire after a Local Talent of Turning Wood into Ships Dates Back Centuries three year period of indentured servi - tude. Slave owners were offered a compensation grant of between £20 The history of boat building on Roatan is as long boat repair and shelter. Careening Cay in Port Royal as the history of the island’s inhabitants. Paya Indians was one such place. Roatan, and especially Port Royal, and £50 per slave. In order to finance used to make large cayucos, dug out canoes up to 30 was full of 100 foot tall Honduran Pine trees. Two men the deal, the British government took feet in length. These boats were used for turtling, were barely able to wrap their arms around them. out a £15 million loan from banker fishing, and transport of goods & people. When the Spanish forcibly removed the Paya from Nathaniel Mayer Rothschild. The loan In the 16th and 17th centuries pirates used to careen Bay Islands in 1650 boat building on the island was paid back in 2015, 182 years later. and fix their boats on the biggest of the Bay Islands. stopped for almost two centuries. Very few people According to the December 31, There was plenty of fresh water, game and fish to eat lived on the island and boats would only occasionally 1831 census count of the Cayman and the Paya Indians helped with cutting of wood for stop by to replenish supplies of water and wild fruit. Population, the islands had 2,000 both white and black inhabitants. The black

Pirates careen a boat to do small repairs. Port Royal and its Careening Cay was perfect for such a job. slaves outnumbered the whites 5 to1 in the 1800s many other 40’-50’ Oak Ridge harbor was bustling with the Cayman Islands and many plantation schooners were build in French activity in 1900. (1981 drawing by owners there were afraid following the Harbour and Oak Ridge. In the late Ann Jennings Brown). events that shook Haiti in 1804 after 1800s a boat called Rubicon was built El Pato being built in oak Ridge. France abolished slavery and the entire to transport copra from Roatan to the white population was massacred. US. Some boats were meant to be used knowledge to Roatan. “Back then when The Cayman Island slave owners to travel between communities on the father was build - A boat on the dry dock in Oak Ridge. were also offered ing a boat, the son land grant in was helping him,” sioned by Winfield McNab was being Elwin and Cardy Elwin, Homer Wood had no warning of hurricanes. We the Bay said Jones. In 1900 a build, a powerful hurricane hit French and Charlie Thompson, Robie Woods, would see the water recede and Islands. 100 foot boat called Harbour from the South-East. After Irwin Jones, Cleary Dixon, Harry then just got ready for the storm,” Displaced Racer was con - the hurricane “we didn’t know if the Dixon, Dick Dixon, the main carpen - said Jones. In this days, boat travel white settlers structed in French boat was washed out or not,” said ters. “Several days before the launch, was also a risky affair. “We would were eligible Harbour. “She could Jones. While the braces got washed the vessel was turned 45 degrees with go to Caymans and we would get for a three carry one million out the boat stayed in place. Other the bow crossways the main road. The lost for days on the way there and acre land grant coconuts,” parts of French Harbour weren’t so only wheels in town were a few wheel even longer coming back. and ex-slaves explained Jones. lucky: 20 houses, or nearly one-third barrows and bicy - Navigation was so were eligible Back in the day and “Wood used in the of town, were destroyed. cles,” Kern Hyde bad,” remembers for one-acre even until 1960 In 1952 a 45 foot wood vessel called remembers. “Signal ship building was Lyonell Arch, a land allotment many Roatan Mensajero was build to aid evangeliza - was given to ‘release Honduran pine” boat builder from from the coconut groves tion efforts of the Seventh Day and pull’ and in a few French Key. British Crown. would produce Adventists in the Americas. Mensajero minutes the Judy was off.” She trans - The Arches are now into their fifth Dozens of over 1,000 sailed towards Orinoco Rover. ported cargo between US and generation of boat builders on the Cayman coconuts a week. In 1958, where Romeo’s restaurant Caribbean for many years. island. It all started with Henry Arch islanders left Racer was build now stands in French Harbour, a boat In 1965 Hersel Elwin build the first who came to Roatan from Liverpool. for the virgin for the Roatan to called MV Judy was built for Myrl shrimp boat on Roatan. It was a 65 foot His son Wilson Leo Arch continued to land south and Roatan: Oak Ridge, French US run, but her destiny led her to a Hyde. “All her ribs were built from wood vessel christened Captain Ted. For build boats on Ezekiel Cay now called began arriving on Roatan in 1831. By Harbour and Coxen Hole. Other boats Colorado reef north-west of Cuba Roatan wood: red mahogany and the first few years islanders would sell Fantasy Island. “He build a giant wheel 1843, 24 White Cayman families were built for journeys to places fur - where she ran aground in the 1940s. moho,” said Jones. The pieces had to be their shrimps to American shrimp ves - that six men would use to pull boats up arrived in the Bay Islands, most of ther like or Honduran Coast. One of the more curious boat build - bent not cut to form the base for the sels fishing in the nearby waters. “The to work,” remembers Sherman Arch, a them decided on Roatan and by 1855 Some vessels were big enough, 100 ing commissions was a Mexican coast hull of the vessel being constructed. [Honduran] government didn’t care boat builder in French Cay. a census showed 700 ex-Caymanians foot or more, to brave the 1,000 mile guard boat built on Roatan in 1910. The “This was our first boat that we used whose shrimp it was back then,” Wilson Leo Arch’s six sons contin - living in the Bay Islands Archipelago. passage to the US coast. vessel, according to Truman Jones, was for international cargo,” recalls Kern explained Jones. Around the same time ued his legacy. “I watched my father All these islanders needed reliable The first boat building families on built by the Cooper family. Hyde, who’s uncle, Hersel Elwin, Lloyd Cooper build another shrimp build boats and never seen him draw boats and in 1840 Roatan’s first boat Roatan were the Arches, Elwins, In 1941, a 90 foot Gwendolyn was build the boat. French Harbour towns - boat for Jack Abbott. down a contract. His only contract was was built. According to Truman Jones, Coopers and Goughs. Henry Arch was a built by Bob Forchie, a Roatan born people came out to witness the launch Hurricane Francelia damaged a handshake,” remembers Sherman a Roatan shrimp boat captain and busi - known boat builder in the Cayman son of a German-American immi - of the MV Judy in April 1958 along the island in 1969 and Fifi hit Arch. “A man’s handshake was his ness owner, it was a 50’ schooner. In Islands and he brought his skills and grant. While Gwendolyn, commis - with the architect and builder, Hersel Roatan hard in 1974. “Back then we bond.” Soft-spoken, with blue eyes and

PÄYÄ 10 MAGAZINE August & September 2018 August & September 2018 PÄYÄ MAGAZINE 11 A boat beeing built Launching of MV Judy in in French Harbour. French Harbour in 1958 (photo by Kern Hyde)

A boat under con - Cay provide shade and a good anchor struction in Oakridge. points for the dozens of semi-finished, and salvaged boat hulls. Sherman’s biggest project to date is a 67 foot long and 24 foot catamaran. What he really enjoys is building fast narrow boats, 37 foot Pangas are the optimum in speed and comfort. “You could go 50 miles an hour in it or faster,” says Mr. Sherman. He is building two small glass bottom boats and fixes up old boats, like a neg - lected Boston Whaler. His boat yard is full of dozens of hulls, boats in different states of construction. “The materials a gray moustache, Mr. Sherman is and go to school in the morning,” rem - are cheaper in the States. Here the gov - quintessentially what Roatan used to inisces Mr. Sherman. In 1978 he build ernment wants to rip you off,” says Mr. be – hard work and honesty. his first wood boat – Flamingo Sherman who’s current favorite boat he Wilson Leo Arch sold Ezekiel Cay 1.There was plenty of wood used in built is Miss French Cay a 36 foot boat to Albert Jackson in 1967 and Arch the construction: mahogany, cider, with eight foot beam that he takes fish - family boat building operation moved Santa Maria,” remembers Mr. ing and patrolling for poachers at night. westward to French Cay. The timing Sherman. We used to “It all started with Henry Oak Ridge was a was fortuitous as on September 2, do sailboat repairs,” boat building center 1969 a devastating hurricane hit says Mr. Sherman. Arch who came to run by the Coopers Roatan from the south. “For eight “That was their way Roatan from Liverpool” since mid XIX centu - hours it hammered the island. It devas - of living. They had to ry. “There was a wood tated the entire south side,” says buy boats or build shop to mill the wood Sherman Arch recalling the massive boats.” “Over the years they even build – pine, Rosita and mahogany that came category five hurricane. “She had more entire boats about of mahogany when from ,” says Mrs. force than any hurricane before, or it was plentiful and not so expensive,” Cooper. The Roatan oak was used after.” Roatan got hit again in 1974 by remembers Lyonel Arch. The wood mostly for planking. Roatan grown Fifi and in 1978 by Greta, both coming construction eventually gave way to sun-wood, one of the toughest woods on shore on September 12. fiberglass. “I started doing fiberglass around, was also used. The Coopers Sherman Arch, 64, has been work - around 1980-81. It was at first just for came from England via , ing on building boats since he was myself,” remembers Mr. Lyonel. Cayman Islands and Belize and eventu - nine. “I would work in the afternoon Today the leafy mangroves of French ally settled on a Cay across from

12 PÄYÄ MAGAZINE August & September 2018 Coxen Hole. As John and Thomas dock was used to do boat modifica - engines and boat equipment in the US Cooper were into boat building they tions. In one such refitting a boat and bring it back with the next trans - looked for a more suitable place to called Albert was cut in half and port. It took about a year to complete build boats and found it on the other extended 10 feet. a boat. The caterpillar motors would side of the island in Oak Ridge. Most of the wood used in the ship arrive via boat and would be fitted “Calabash Bight had the Cooks and building was Honduran pine. onto the hull. Greenwoods, in Fidler’s Bight it was Mahogany was used for interiors. The Some from the younger generation the Boddens, Oak Ridge it was the boat building was a matter of trust. of boat builders are also leaving its Coopers and the Goughs and “You could mail a letter in US and it mark on the tradition of boat building Jonesville had the Joneses,” says Oak would get in French Harbour in six on the island. Darcy Martinez is anoth - Ridge’s Jessie Cooper, now 93, days,” says Truman Jones. There were er Roatan boat builder who has made remembering the old days. She no banks and one would give cash to a molds of the Edwardoño hull, a quality remembers when the Oak Ridge dry boat-crew for them to purchase Colombian boat maker. "My boats are different than the Edwardoño. We don't put as much reinforcement in them," says Martinez who operates a boat building business in French Harbour. “Martinez boats are built well, they hold their value,” says Autie McVicker, owner of Mango Creek Lodge in Port Royal, who owns seven boats built by Martinez. “He produces quality product without any of the technology available in the US. If he had that he could compete with any - body.” The next generation of Arches is not quite jumping into the boat build - ing business. “They like to use them, Workers at but they don’t like to build them,” says Sherman Mr. Sherman Arch. Arch boat yard in French Cay.

Roatan built MV Judy in French Harbour.

14 PÄYÄ MAGAZINE August & September 2018 PROFILES | Island Seniors

EYES LOOKING EAST Mrs. Jessie Cooper Preserves the Collective Memory of Oak Ridge

he sits on her rocking chair looking at the Oak Ridge stationed in Puerto Castilla. valley her family owned for almost 200 year, her While there was no rationing, food supplies were short. gray hair blowing in the wind as she looks east “We used to make war cake: no eggs and no butter,” Mrs. towards the oak trees moving in the breeze. In a Cooper remembers. Coopers owned land from Jonesville to house on Oak Ridge point in the spring of 1925 Jessie Marie Diamond Rock and people would bring her vegetables, fruits. CSooper Finlason came into the world. She was the eldest of “It was a sharecropping system.” There was very little money two brothers, three sisters and one adopted sister. Her father circulating back in these days. One coin that was in use was a worked for Standard Fruit Company and as a young child she metal “Cooper coin” that the family had to be redeemed at their moved to Puerto Cabezas, Nicaragua where the US company stores. The Cooper’s farm produced many fruits, vegetables and had another operation. After a few years her parents separated had cows, pigs, chickens and deer. and it was her mother who had to raise the seven children. Life on the island, away from urban areas and many advan - “Nora used to cry for her father,” Mrs. Cooper recalls of her tages of technology and medicine brought hardships as well. “I younger sister. “Other children used to tease us: ‘your father was eight months pregnant and had to go to La Ceiba,” remem - run away’,” remembers Ms. Cooper. But Ms. Cooper says that bers Ms. Cooper. Coming on the Edith-Mac boat from Coxen she was raised by her entire extended family. “There were Hole to the coast was an all night affair. The boat transported uncles, aunts, people helped everywhere.” cattle, cargo and people. “I had to lie down on dock on two While families and friends helped each other out, the only Coca-Cola cases,” remembers the Mrs. Cooper, reflecting on Hondurans she ever encountered were the teachers at the the arduous passage. Francisco Morazan School in Oak Ridge. “I didn’t want to learn Married for 21 years to Mr. James Cooper she had three Spanish and I still don’t,” says Mrs. Cooper. Oak Ridge had no children: Larry, Walton and Alana. Today Mrs. Jessie is a happy roads, there was no police, no tax men, no Honduran military. nonagenarian who loves spending time with her daughter Alana. “My father’s family wouldn’t allow Spaniards to land here She is energetic, fit and full optimism. until the 1950s,” recalls Ms. Cooper. “Every Wednesday we would do embroidery and every Saturday there would be a dance. Mrs. Jessie Cooper with younger sister in 1930’s. There was music everywhere,” recalls Mrs. Cooper.”Music is what I miss the most.” When she was 16, Mr. Hugh Parry, from England gave her a Brownie camera. The young girl put the camera to good use docu - menting happenings on the Cay. She remembers an American seaplane that landed in Oak Ridge in 1942 investigating reports of islanders selling fuel to German U-boats. “They came in very low, skimmed and landed in the mangroves. People pulled them out,” remembers Mrs. Cooper, “the boat was so heavy and stuck in the mangroves so deep it had to drop a bomb in the 4-5 feet of water for it to be freed.” A PT boat, torpedo-armed fast attack craft, from an American Naval base at Puerto Castilla soon came to help. Mrs. Cooper remembers a serviceman who then agreed to fly on top of the wing in order balance the plane. “He fell in the water as the plane was launching. He got bruised up,” says Mrs. Cooper who documented the entire episode with her camera. After that came the occasional, but memorable visits by American officers

Cooper & Warren token used to pay island workers and was redeemable at the Warren and Cooper stores on Mrs. Jessie Cooper on her porch of her Oak Ridge home. Roatan. (Courtesy of Neil Keller)

16 PÄYÄ MAGAZINE August & September 2018 IN DEPTH | Photo Story

Diver inspects the corral tree in Sandy Bay Area (Photo by Jennifer CORAL CHRISTMAS Keck). as policy director in for the Coral opportunities to learn about coral.” Park will manage that would allow local TREES Restoration Foundation setting up Renee Setter, who recently complet - dive shops to get involved and engage restoration programs across the ed her PADI Dive Master internship at the community and make everyone feel Island Divers Plant Underwater Trees to Give Caribbean says “I am convinced these are Turquoise Bay, explains what makes like they are contributing.” Coral a Chance important corals. We can grow them and working on the restoration program so Lean agrees that cooperation is criti - plant them and we can get better at it. special, saying, “ it’s such a unique and cal, saying “communication between all I’ve seen it work in Bonaire, Curacao, fulfilling experience to be able to give projects is essential to improve the effec - Mustique and in the Florida Keys.” back to the reef. It makes divers feel satis - tiveness of coral restoration.” Starting in early 2016, the Bay Islands fied and rewarded knowing that they gave While these coral restoration pro - Reef Restoration program installed ten back to the beautiful underwater world.” grams are not a fix for the rising tem - coral trees in Turquoise Bay and another Keck, who oversees a coral restora - peratures and acidity in the ocean, ten in Mahogany Bay. Once the frag - tion program with 24 coral trees with they do help point the way forward ments of coral have sufficiently grown, more than 2,000 corals on them agrees towards a better future. Funderburk they are planted back onto the reef, that, “the whole idea of citizen science is stresses that we need to “do as much tagged, and monitored at regular inter - just growing. People want to be more smart conservation as we can on a vals. Since January, the program in useful. There has been so much interest local level” with programs that are Turquoise Bay has out-planted more than among recreational divers.” “effective but also educational.” 260 corals onto the reef with a success While the programs in Sandy Bay Keck also ultimately sounds a positive rate of more than 92%. Funderburk says and Turquoise Bay have been successful, note, saying that, “We might not have the that the program relies on volunteers, the ultimate goal as Keck understands it answer today, but we might next month. using an “ecotourism” model that doesn’t is to “get the techniques down so we We have a seed bank in Norway. We need depend on “government grants or chari - can start another nursery in the West a coral bank and that’s sort of what these ty,” but provides their guests with “unique End/West Bay area that the Marine nurseries are becoming.”

By Steve Hopkinson

orals reefs are dying. The Islands. As Tripp Funderburk, who runs same record keeping and naming con - MesoAmerican barrier reef the coral restoration program at ventions so they can work together and surrounding Roatan is experi - Subway Watersports in Turquoise Bay collaborate in the future. encing unprecedented fatal explains, “we had the worst bleaching The coral restoration programs on stress from increasing water tempera - event in the history of Roatan last year.” Roatan revolve around coral tree nurs - tCure, acidity and nutrients like sewage, Jennifer Keck, who works as the eries. The nurseries are composed of big, pesticides, and fertilizers. The Great Education and Research Coordinator 30 foot tall PVC pipes. Like an underwa - Barrier Reef in Australia experienced a for the Roatan Institute for Marine ter Christmas tree fragments of two criti - catastrophic bleaching event in 2016 that Sciences (RIMS) at Anthony’s Key cally endangered species coral, staghorn Tripp Funderburk talking to a killed entire areas of once vibrant, Resort in Sandy Bay says, “we can’t and elkhorn, hang from thin filaments of group of students at Turquoise Bay healthy coral, leaving behind miles of life - afford to have another bleaching event.” wire attached to the thicker PVC branch - Resort. (Photo by Robert Herb). less, colorless skeletons. Such an event Coral Restoration initiatives are a es. To harvest these fragments, they take would be a disaster for the tourism that is planned scientific response that, as 10% of viable, healthy specimens of vital to the economy of Roatan. Executive Director of the Roatan staghorn and elkhorn coral, cut them Thankfully there are a group of pas - Marine Park, Francis Lean says, “give into little pieces and try to preserve as much of the genetic diversity of these sionate environmental scientists leading hope to the reef.” Both of the restora - A piece of staghorn coral used in the charge to preserve, protect and tion programs in Turquoise Bay and keystone species as possible. the restoration program. (Photo by defend the coral reefs of the Bay Sandy Bay use the same coral trees, the Funderburk, who previously worked Jennifer Keck).

PÄYÄ MAGAZINE August & September 2018 18 August & September 2018 PÄYÄ MAGAZINE 19 PROFILES | Island Artist

here is a long history of painters moving to tropical islands attracted by the embracing light of the warm MIXED MEDIA sun, luscious greens of the vegetations, and the glori - ous and inspiring sunsets. A bit like Paul Gauguin, who ROATAN moved from busy Paris to the island of Fiji, Jennifer Irias made a tTransition from the bustling Honduran capital to Roatan. A Tegucigalpa Artists Moves to When Jennifer moved to Utila in 2016, her paintings the Island became a bit more geometric and much more abstract. Other canvases were quite realistic and portrayed people that she came upon in her life. “Captain O’Keef, he was such a character,” Jennifer recalls, about the American she painted on Utila. Captain O’Keef is painted in realistic style smoking a cigar… with acrylic, sharpie and epoxy resin. “It’s easy to follow trends, but much more difficult to make something that is timeless,” she says. “Art has to be an escape. It needs to evoke good vibes” . In 2017 Jennifer left Utila to establish her home on Roatan. The island has been a home to several self-taught painters, but Jennifer came to Roatan having studied art in Tegucigalpa for a decade-and-a-half. At 12 she was not only studying painting, but already teaching art to younger students. Her parents couldn’t pay for Jennifer’s lessons, so in return for lessons and art supplies little she would teach basic art skills to children half her age. This is how she spent the time studying and practicing art at the Estudio Carolina Carias in Tegucigalpa. “It’s not so common for parents to support their kids in what you want to do,” remembers Jen. Parental guidance was an important part in Jen’s upbringing. “Please don’t study art because you want be able to be making a living,” she remembers her mother saying. So Jennifer ended up studying Civil Engineering at UNITEC in Tegucigalpa and graduated with an engineering degree. Her first out-of-school job was in civil engineering, but she found it boring and continued to paint. In 2012 Jennifer had her first works show in an exhibition called “Horizontes.” Waves of Art Gallery also featured her paintings in exposition called “Awake.” In June of this year, the Priorini furniture store in Sandy Bay hosted a “Pop-up art Jen spray paints a wooden frame gallery” exhibition of her paintings. Her work has a beautiful for her mixed media object. symmetry to it and often integrates avian themes. “I just love symmetry,” says Jennifer who is also an avid birdwatcher. Jennifer doesn’t just stick to one type of media: she uses acrylics, sharpies, and resin. On Roatan she began experiment - “It’s easy to follow trends, ing with gold, silver and copper leaf. One media Jennifer does - but much more difficult n’t work with is oils. “I don’t like the smell,” she says. Her mixed media pallet even included a “Hibiscus bus” a project to make something that where she painted a bluebird bus that now takes tourists on is timeless” tours all over the island. “Try to make art that, in 50 years, you wouldn’t know how old it is. In other words: make timeless pieces,” says Jennifer. Jennifer also continues to educate aspiring artists. She gives Jennifer Irias works with prints classes at her home studio in Sandy Bay to students 3 to 18 of her childhood photos at her years of age. Sandy bay studio.

20 PÄYÄ MAGAZINE August & September 2018 IN DEPTH | Business PERSPECTIVE | Jon’s World

[email protected] ROAD WORKS GALORE Roatan is Getting a Badly Needed Facelift

he amount of road mainte - open the north side of Roatan to ects taking place including the 5.6 nance and new road con - traffic and investment opportunities Kilometers white topping contract struction taking place in the linking the communities of Mud running from McNab Plaza and the summer of 2018 is a game Hole, Corozal with Brick Bay. The Santos Guardiola Municipal border JON TOMPSON changer for Roatan. “You can hear the Municipality awarded the 49 million has been won by Island Concrete and T Lps. 8.8 kilometer paving contract to change of the atmosphere. When you is funded by the Roatan Municipality. go and pay your taxes you actually Ing. Luis Alvarado. Roatan There is even talk of closing the ROATAN AND feel good about it,” says Ing. Gustavo Municipality is doing all the prepara - excising dump and opening another BLACK RIVER Isnardi Jr. of Islands Development tory work and grading and is also dump by 2019. Company [BIDC]. BIDC has complet - handling negotiations with local own - Much of the damage to Roatan’s ed two repair contracts for roads ers about donating land to the right paved roads was done by heavy traf - from Pensacola to West Bay, West Bay of way. The first 800 meters of the fic and water running over the fter taking Roatan from the British in March trous mission to invade Nicaragua. The meager force of 20 sol - to West End, West End to Oak Ridge. north side road, from the eastern - roads. Central Government’s Fondo 1781, General Matias de Galvez, commander of diers manning the defenses of Fort Dalling fled into the jungle. Each contract was around 26 to 27 most end of Sandy Bay to just beyond Vial is, at least in theory, responsi - all Spanish forces in Central America, turned his Galvez knew that the British would return, and waited million Lempiras. “We actually did the municipal dump, were paved in ble for maintenance and repair of attention to the last English outpost in Honduras. for them. Upon hearing of the loss of Black River, the pavement at entrances to ensure the 2012 under Mayor Julio Galindo’s culverts under national roads. “Most AThe Black River Settlement, was the "thorn in the foot of the Governor of Jamaica sent a 500 man relief force of Jamaican overall investment,” says Ing. Isnardi. administration, but paving stripped of the drainage system isn’t even Spanish Empire." The outpost lay on the banks of the Rio Rangers. They joined up with members of the Roatan and The emergency funds that paid for abruptly. The new construction is damaged, but it just wasn’t main - Sico, some 80 miles east of Roatan, and was founded 49 years Black River Volunteer Militia, led by Captains Richard Hoare the patching were paid by Central scheduled to be completed by tained. It accumulated a lot of dirt,” earlier by William Pitt. and James Ferral of Roatan, and their Miskito mercenaries. Government entities: Sobtravi, October 2018, but is likely to be says Ing. Isnardi. Even the road sec - Pitt’s father, Thomas "Diamond" Pitt, had worked for the A force of 1,300 men arrived back in Black River to find the ZOLITUR, INSEP and others. delayed into the early 2019. “This tion by RECO, the Catholic Church East India Company in Calcutta and had Spanish forces depleted with 400 men A brand new paved road will will be a completely different island and the mall will get new paving. come into the possession of an extremely dead to tropical disease, snake bites, when the projects are finished,” says “We have a lot of equipment here valuable 410 carat diamond, “The and alligators. The Spanish were soon Dale Jackson of Roatan Municipality Ing. Luis Alvzrado. and we are ready to go to work,” Regent”. It weighed close to four ounces “The colony thrived on defeated in a rout, losing 120 men to drives a piece of heavy machinery There are other substantial proj - says Ing. Isnardi. and made Pitt a hefty sum of £135,000. In Miskito sniper archers. The last 23 offi - near Mud Hole, on the north side of 1732, using his inheritance from the dia - smuggling and on the cers and 715 men surrendered giving the Roatan Municipality. mond, William, then age 37, founded a up ships, 33 cannons, and three Royal wood cutting settlement on the Miskito export of hardwoods“ Standards. The men were shipped back Coast. His fortunes further improved, to Omoa, under oath not to take up when he rescued a beautiful Spanish arms again against the British, and the noblewoman from a shipwreck. They married and her connec - town returned to normal commerce. tions to influential businessmen and politicians in Tegucigalpa In 1786, Britain and signed the Convention of allowed Pitt to start a lucrative smuggling business. The colony London where Britain relinquished its control over the thrived on smuggling and on the export of hardwoods, turtle Miskito Coast in exchange for rights to settle Belize. 2,650 shell, plant medicines, sugar and sarsaparilla. British settlers left Black River for Belize and Jamaica. The A census taken in 1769 showed the town to have 200 set - town was formally handed over to the Spanish by William tlers of white or mixed origin, 600 black slaves and around Pitt’s grandson, William Pitt Lawrie. 3,000 Mosquito Indians. The town was twice the size of the The town of Black River boasted some fine houses and other two towns of importance on the coast, Trujillo and Puerto hence the Spaniards renamed it Palacios (Palaces) and 240 set - Caballos, and boasted two shipyards and 12 lumber mills. That tlers arrived from the Canary Islands to re-colonize the town. year alone over 800,000 board feet of mahogany, 10,000 pounds The Spanish forbade any trading with the Miskitos, and this, of turtle shell, and 200,000 pounds of sarsaparilla were export - combined with the new colonists total lack of knowledge of ed to London and New York. All of this illegal commerce came agriculture, caused the town to fail completely. to the attention of King Charles of Spain who ordered the tres - The final nail in the coffin came on the dawn hours of passers to be expelled. September 3, 1800, when the Miskito general Perquin Tempest On April 13,1781, Galvez, accompanied by 800 soldiers silently paddled down the river by canoe accompanied by 200 from Roatan and 600 from Trujillo sailed for Black River. The warriors. The Miskitos killed every Spaniard they could find and area was mostly abandoned as the British and their Miskito allies only 80 survivors managed to flee to Trujillo, leaving the com - had left to assist a young captain, Horatio Nelson, in his disas - munity abandoned for the next century.

PÄYÄ 22 MAGAZINE August & September 2018 August & September 2018 PÄYÄ MAGAZINE 23 PROFILES | lifestyle

Eastern Wind Roatan is a perfect place to practice wind sports: sailing, windsurfing and kiteboarding and Paya Bay is now a small Mecca for kite - boarders. After a July 23 session at the Kiteboard Roatan launched in 2013: Dave Stanko, Ryan Stanko, Grandma, Selina Solorzano, Vikkie Collins, Randal Hernandez, Nessa Pandy, Brian Stanko, guests. (Photo by Chris Berg)

Boxing Pros Roatanians are natural boxers, but while there is plenty of talent, until recently there were few ways of tapping into it. The shining stars of Roatan boxing made their debut at West Bay’s Paradise Beach Villas events center on July 7 against Alexis Arguello boxing school and Rufo Telles Boxing school from Masaya, Nicaragua. After the main event: Phillip Schneider, Toni Grayson, Danny Ewing, Jaden Ewing, Clement Heath, guest, Carlos Santos, Orlen Forbes.

SMomoree outth tahen isMlanadns gbeo stC kreepte tk reasures are on the east gang headed out back west. Ready to board the Mango side… weay east. On June 19 a group of Texans headed to Creek Express: Jenny Khan, Sara Khan, Dr. Fareed Khan, Port Royal to explore the Mango Creek Lodge and envi - Oswaldo Khan, Asad Khan, Tanya Khan, Dr. Rubina Khan, rons. After a delicious Mexican themed lunch, walking a Janie McVicker, Geri Ortiz, Tita Medina, Ellen Johnson, suspended bridge and playing in the freshwater creek the Autie McVicker, Jimbo, Manny Quiroz. PERSPECTIVE | straight talk

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KEENA HAYLOCK LET THE SEA BE OUR WALL

mmigrants have been front and center in the media in arriving on the ferry and on airplanes from the mainland the last couple of months. With the recent crime in search of a better life, or a job, or just less violence. I, wave on the island, the locals and some mainland as most local attorneys, am a transplant to this island. transplants have been up in arms to stop the But, while some people come to contribute to their new uInchecked flow of immigrants to our islands. Some argue home, other come with poor intentions, or are fleeing that visas should be required of the mainlanders. But before authorities back home. we start issuing the Roatan Passport let’s see if this is possi - The issue of immigration and border control is ble from a legal standpoint. complicated. While we cannot deny anyone the right to My grandmother immigrated to the United states of freely move around the country, we can definitely America over 50 years ago, I have migrant aunts, uncles and apply some restrictions. On such a small island we siblings who are proud to call the should exercise some control US their home. When arriving at “we should exercise some over who is allowed to come Ellis Island in 1900 vastly European and who is allowed to stay. emigrants had pass a physical exam, control over who is I believe anyone visiting for read 40 words in English, and were touristic purposes should be asked about their felony past, will - allowed to come and who allowed to come with zero ingness to work and prove sufficient is allowed to stay“ restrictions. There is a lovely sys - funds ($25) to be let in. So where tem in San Andres, Colombia, a should we stand on crossing borders and when does it small island 400 kilometers east of Nicaragua’s coast: become too much to send us your downtrodden? I under - Colombian people are allowed to visit as tourist provided stand, better than anyone, the arguments for both sides of they have a hotel or holiday package booked or as resi - the migrant crisis and who it affects. dents provided they have a job offer from a local business, It is hard for Hondurans to stop other Hondurans from or a are starting a business venture that does not current - crossing what amounts to a departmental line drawn in a ly exist on the island. In this example, Colombians water. It’s as if Florida suddenly decided too many restricts other Colombians from visiting their own terri - Americans were retiring there and refused US citizens tory. They want to preserve the island for future genera - entry across the state line. Well, it’s a similar scenario for tions, not bleed it dry in just a couple of years. They the islands and the mainland, but here’s the kicker - we are don’t want to scare off the tourists with never ending an island with limited natural resources and finite jobs. arrivals of beggars, thieves and murderers. We don’t have enough water to supply the existing popula - On Roatan everyone without a warrant for their arrest, tion and maintain necessary levels of hygiene. If you don’t or that isn’t running from the law should be allowed to believe that, ask someone from Los Fuertes, or Balfate how visit. If you are investing in the island, or have proof of many times a week they receive water. The public hospital employment you should be allowed to stay. I’ll let the doesn’t have running water. The courthouse doesn’t have a courts sort out if that violates the constitution, or not. 24-hour water supply. We very well could be courting an These are the same courts that decided the whole contro - public health epidemic of biblical proportions. versy over a second presidential term and its de-facto pro - Still, every day we get a new batch of prospectors hibition in the Honduran constitution.

August & September 2018 PÄYÄ MAGAZINE 27 IN DEPTH | Helping Hand

ELEMENTARY HELP A Kindergarten Assists Kids of Struggling Parents A teacher reads a story to the Allred Daycare’s children.

llred Daycare and Learning Roatan in 2003, have left a lasting hotels in West Bay. know only anger and happiness; this Center [ADLC] in Coxen legacy on the island. In 2004 they ADLC’s rooms are filled with the is what they see at home.” Hole is providing an option helped to open the kindergarten, chatter and laughter of giggly kids. Two The center has capacity of 38, but to hard working parents located right across from the munici - to six-year-olds come to the center 29 children are enrolled at this point. with few resources. While most pre- pal offices in Coxen Hole. ADLC also every day from 7:30 am till 5:30 pm. The parents pay monthly Lps. 1,000 sAchool children are cared for by family, opened the La Rosa Language Center The parents can drop off and pick up per child and a matching amount is neighbors, and friends, that is not in Los Fuertes that teaches English to their kids anytime they need to. Their raised through donors and donations. always possible, particularly for many monolingual mainland born island res - children learn to wash their hands three There are six part time teachers, single parents, families with small idents. Nine years later Nicole times a day, brush their teeth after there is also an administrator, and a incomes, and recent Schneider took over meals and develop their social skills. guard. migrants to the island. “They know only the center’s manage - They have interactions in English and With solar panels donated by “You can only anger and happiness ” ment. “I found this Spanish and also receive education in Vegas Electric the electric bill is leave a child here if place and fixed it up,” basic math and science. Here they are kept below Lps. 1,500. There is a you work,” says Nicole says Nicole looking to develop their first motor skills. difficulty in finding and keeping Schneider, the center’s the space at a busy “80%-90% of our brain is formed ADLC’s sponsors. Anthony’s Key director. The parents of the children are Coxen Hole corner right next to the in the zero to six years of age,” says Resort, Paradise Beach Club and taxi drivers, single parents, municipal Stadium Julio Galindo. Nicole. “This is when our tempera - Markawasi Foundation have been employees and, as Schneider admits, Born in Santiago, Chile, Nicole ment is also formed.” The children helping, but several other sponsors “even prostitutes.” “The reason that thinks of herself as British-Chilean- here come from working, but trou - have crumbled away and Nicole is Judith Allred opened the facility was for Swiss. With a degree in international bled homes in Coxen Hole. “They always looking for new sponsors. struggling families to be able to find relations and one in hotel management, work and keep working,” says Nicole. she is more than qualified to run a day - Judith and Bill Allred, a retired care in a small town. Her parents came Children finish their lunch American couple who moved to to Roatan in 1993 and built one of first at the ADLC.

Children play at the ADLC. WANDERINGS | Off Island News IN DEPTH | Hidden Corners

La Ceiba built ‘Pirate Ship’ Black Pearl OFF ISLAND PERSPECTIVE and Gulf King resting in Oak Ridge.

USA The US has begun to implement a sort-off rent-a-passport system. “If you have seriously delinquent tax debt (…) The State Department generally will not issue a pass - FORGOTTEN CLUNKERS port,” reads a statement on the IRS.gov web - Sweden Old Ships Come to Rest in oak Ridge site. At least 362,000 names have been Increasingly Swedes are choosing to have selected for passport denial and revoking for microchips inserted into their bodies. having a government debt over $50,000. In Apparently carrying cash, or even cards communist countries in 1940-1990 and in is inconvenient and a micro chip the size Cuba today citizens have to ask permission to of a grain of rice can save you seconds to receive a travel passport and have to return it wirelessly unlock doors, access your to authorities when they return. Perhaps, if computer or make credit payments from your passport was taken away so easily, just four centimeters away. So far the maybe it wasn’t yours to begin with. 3,000 Swedes got “biohacked” and are not concerned about the risk of data theft, continuous live tracking of where By Wilford James they are and what they do.

Pakistan China has built a world class shipping port in Pakistan’s Gwadar, the largest deep sea port in the world. Increasingly goods and supplies to and from western China are now shipped ship that has been parked in the same spot for the need SERNA and others to give us permits in via Gwadar and placed on the paved road bit like two old friends tired and Mexico last three years, could be fixed and used as some order to sink them as a wreck,” says Nick network avoiding the time end expense of defeated and awaiting their fate, Ibogane anti-addiction clinics are popping all over type tourist attraction. “She is in bad condition but Bach, of Roatan Marine Park. travel to ports like Shanghai or Hong Kong. they sit quietly and motionless at Mexico. Thousands of Americans dependant on Heroin, she is fixable if you could find someone that has Devoid of mast, winch and anchor, the Gwadar port is part of the $50 billion China- the far end of Oak Ridge Harbor. Cocaine and alcohol have freed themselves from their the money to invest,” said a local business man. essential equipment of a fishing boat, the Gulf Pakistan Economic Corridor. China has They are next to each other, both addiction after a 36 hour iboga root withdrawal session “She would make a great tourist attraction.” King 2 is in a state of slow decay with iron rusts paved 806 kilometers of Pakistan’s treacher - tAilting to their left side as they slowly fade fur - The Gulf King 2, on the other hand, may and flaking paint his most noticeable characteris - supervised by medical staff. There is no withdrawal ous Karakorum highway connecting the it’s ther and further away from their glory days. Far have had a longer run as a fishing boat, but no tics. After making stops at different shipyards symptoms with Ibogane and success rate is reportedly as Tibetan plateau with the Arabian Sea. The are the days when each could move around with history of glory here on the island. Hailing all around the island with no apparent solution to his high as 80%. Europeans came across the root bark of two countries are also linked with 820 kilo - smooth sway and ride the waves with graceful the way from some port in the USA, he made ailment, the King has finally made his longest stop iboga tree being used in initiation ceremonies among meter underground Fiber Optic Cable. ease, conquering the open sea. some West African tribes in late XIX century. While CIA And as nature would have it, time and wear his way to the island towed by another vessel, while awaiting his fate. “The fishing boat has a & tear take their toll on all creature and creation, but he has never once made a fishing trip in good steel bottom that could be recycled and studied affects of ibogane in 1950, the Iboga plant is ille - Mali The UN world army has been at war in and these two unrelated boats, the Black Pearl his new and unfamiliar home. Made of alu - used on other boats” said Norin Williams a former gal, and alongside Heroin and Marijuana considered Mali since 2012 and the prospects of and the Gulf King, are no exception. minum and steel, he must have indeed con - seaman who works as a taxi dorie captain. schedule I drug in USA. perpetual war are looking good. 17,000 Built in 2008 solemnly to serve as a quered the deep sea while leaving behind a As everyone and everything in the world has foreign and 6,000 Mali forces and tourist ship on the island of Roatan, the 88 trail of triumphant conquest. With the a purpose and could be of service to the world, so dozens have been holding the line feet long by 27 feet wide Black Pearl spent absence of details or descriptions of past trav - could the Black Pearl and the Gulf King. The for - against the 1,200–3,000 strong Islamic her short-lived heyday as an entertainment el, one can only speculate about the Gulf mer could possibly be a stationary pirate theme State of the Greater Sahara [ISGS]. venue. She transported tourist around the King 2’s spectacular journeys around the restaurant near the shore of Oak Ridge harbor Brazil Military servicemen from China, island of Roatan sharing some of the secrets Atlantic Ocean and beyond. where she now lays. The Gulf King could be sunk Mesoamerican reef that Roatan is a part of is no Slovenia, USA, Cambodia, Nepal, and fantasies of the island’s history, while Authorities have not turned a blind eye on and serve as haven for marine life and a mooring longer considered the second largest barrier reef in Ireland, France and a dozen of other delighting her guests with music and danc - the disintegrating vessels that could disinte - for a dive spot. the world, it is now tied for second place. Scientists willing countries have sent their sol - ing all the way from the docks of Fantasy grate polluting the water and causing damage “It would be nice if they could be re-pur - have discovered a brand new, 1,000 kilometer long diers to fight and fly fighter jet missions Island to the harbor of West End. to passing boats. Jonathan Lainez, Roatan’s posed somehow. Otherwise, perhaps tow them in continually unsuccessful mission to reef – the Amazon coral reef. It stretches from French As part of the entertainment, her crew, port captain, said that he has made a report out to the reef and sink them to make more reefs defeat the ISGS and there is no end in including the captain, would dress in full about the Oak Ridge boats and six others and a dive spot…, said Robert McNail. “To me, Guiana to Brazil’s Maranha o State and covers 9,500 ̃ sight. In contrast, in Syria and Iraq, the pirate attire, bringing to life century-old abandoned boats on the island. the way they are now, they distract from the square kilometers. The discovery of the reef at the 40,000 strong Islamic State has been all scenes of pirates battles and pirates “The dive community should get involved quaint beauty of Oak Ridge,” he added. mouth of the Amazon corrects a wrongly assumed but defeated by the by conscripted Iraqi schemes. It seems like, as with her prede - and go to the owner. Sponsors could get The two boats that sit quietly in Oak Ridge theory that great rivers create gaps in reef systems. and Syrian forces. The Mali war has so cessors from hundreds of years ago, luck involved and clean up the boat and sink it at a Harbor, with a little creativity and effort, could The reef follows the edge of South American conti - far displaced 400,000 many of whom was not on her side. dive site,” says Shawn Hyde, a Roatan salvage play a more appropriate role as part of the land - nental shelf and is estimated to contain 60 species of are already in Europe. Some locals believe that the deteriorating operator with 20 years experience. “We would scape of the municipality of Santos Guardiola. sponges and 73 species of fish. PÄYÄ 30 MAGAZINE August & September 2018 August & September 2018 PÄYÄ MAGAZINE 31 IN DEPTH |Island Happenings

The Eagle has Docked Biggest Sailing Ship to Date Visits Roatan une was a windy month on Roatan and two unusual vessels chose Roatan as a port of call. On June 26, six Cuban refugees sailed onto the reef at Fantasy Island. Despite no guarantee of residency, desperate Cubans continue to brave the 1,000 kilometer of open ocean to flee the socialist regime. JOn June 29, USCGC Eagle, a US coast guard school ship docked at Port of Roatan and flew her banner. For two days Eagle turned into a floating museum hosting hundreds of Roatanians touring it’s deck and receiving a lesson in vessel’s history. On Roatan the Eagle’s crew and cadets got a break from their sailing routine and got to do a bit of diving, snorkeling, zip lining, and shopping. “This was actually Eagle’s first visit to Honduras and Roatan (…) I can scarcely believe that none of my predecessors would have visited. Their loss,” wrote Matt Meilstrup, Eagle’s Commanding Officer. “We also had very productive meetings with the Honduran armed forces and govern - ment, especially Navy and Merchant Marine.” The 295’ training cutter is the only active sailing ship in US military service. She dates back seven generations of ships to 1792 when US coast guard used its first ship - ‘Revenue Cutter Eagle.’ The Eagle was originally christened Horst Wessel in Hamburg in 1936, after a Nazi hero, in the presence of Adolf Hitler. She trained German sailors until WWII broke out and in 1942 she was armed and patrolled Baltic Sea. After the defeat of Germany, Horst Wessel was won by the United States in a drawing of lots with the Soviet and British navies and given to the US Coast Guard. Since 1946 every single new US cadet undergoing officer training has begun his or her career by learning to traverse the seas the old way, by trimming sails and scrubbing the decks. The Eagle has almost 10 kilometers of running rigging and 2,070 square meter of sail area. Her hull is made of 3” teak wood laid with 1” steel. For an octogenarian, the Eagle is in great shape and there are no plans to retire it. The New London, Connecticut based Eagle goes out on voyages last - ing up to two months. It performs a public relations duty for the US Coast Guard as it offers training to cadets and officer candidates. USCGC Eagle recently underwent renovations including repairs to por - tions of her hull, upgrades to the berthing areas, installation of a new radar, and inspection of her masts. “That work is expected to add an addi - tional 15 years of service life though, if my past experience is any guide, that will be stretched much longer,” wrote Captain Meilstrup. “ The ship is in fantastic material condition.” On July 2 Eagle departed Roatan for Cartagena, Colombia, to Curacao and then onto Miami.

Six Cubans with their vessel on the reef in front of Fantasy Island. (photo by Gringo Divemaster)

USCGC Eagle flies her flag at Port of Roatan. WANDERINGS | calendar

Yearly Calendar August 1: Lobster & Crab season begins August 3: Honduran flag & race day August 1-6: San Salvador’s Fiestas Agostinas August 3-5: The Utila Weekender (Utila) August 20: Roatan Moto Fest (Islandwide) August: Honduran National Baseball Championship September 1: Honduran Flag Day September 10: Children’s Day September 15: Honduras Independence Day September 17: Teacher’s Day In Honduras September 13: 19th Roatan International Fishing Tournament (West End) September 28: Honduras Independence Document Arrival Day September 30: Roatan Point 2 Point Cycling Anual Event October 3: Francisco Morazan’s Anniversary/ Soldier’s Day October: Extreme Roatan endurance race (Mud Hole) October 13-14: Roatan Underwater Photo Fest October 12: Columbus Day & Discovery of America October 13: Honduras Culture Day October 21: Honduran Armed Forces Day October 22: United Nations Day October 31: Halloween November 1: All Saints Day November 17-19: Dive World goes to Utila Boxing in West Bay November 18: Ratification Of Alfonso XIII Decree Clement Heath (on right) takes on a Nicaraguan boxer in November 22: Jose Cecilio del Valle Birthday November 22: Thanksgiving Day the main event at Paradise Beach Villas on July 7 as refer - November 23: Black Friday ee Carlos Santos watches on. Heath easily won the fight. November 30: Honduras’ School Year Ends December 25: Christmas Day December 31: New Year’s Eve

Weekly Happenings

Kristofer Goldman & Kultura: Kristofer Goldman & Kultura: Free Salsa Classes: 7-9pm at Movie Night: 7:15pm at The Buffet: 11am-3pm at Frenchy's Movie Night: 7:15pm at The Sunday Funday: 12pm live music 6:00-9 in Bananarama in WB 5:30, 7:30 at AKR’s Frangipani Kaluu Bar & Grill in West End Pineapple Grill, French Harbour 44 in FK Pineapple Grill, French Harbour and BBQ at Barefoot Cat La Palapa: 6-8:30pm food and Ladie’s Night: 8pm at Herby’s Movie Night: 7:15pm at The Scott Haynes band: 5:30 pm at Kristofer Goldman & Kultura: Kristofer Goldman & Kultura: 7:00- Live entertainment.: 12pm-6pm at drinks! Music Jam With Patty Sports Bar in FH Pineapple Grill, French Harbour Sundowners in WE 5:00 Caribe Tesoro in West Bay 10 at Infinity Bay in WB Infinity Bay in WB McCulla at Infinity Bay in WB DJ: 8pm-11 at Blue Marlin in Brion James: 6-9pm at Caribe Garinago Nights: 7pm at Paya Bay Scott Haynes band: 6:30 pm at Brion James & the West End Live Music: 6pm at Bananarama: in 2CanDoo: 6pm music mix of West End. Tesoro in WB Resort in PB Infinity Bay in WB Players: 7pm at Beachers in WE WB. 60s & 70s soft & folk rock by Music Trivia: 5-9pm Music Jam Sunken Fish at Tranquil Seas: Live Music: 6:30-9:30pm with Bobby Rieman Band: 6:30- Joseph y Sopa music: 6-10pm at Live Music: 12pm Live Music with Ron at Caribe Tesoro in WB with Eddie Nakada at 7pm-9pm- Live Music Jimmy James at Bananarama in WB 9:30pm at Bananarama in WB Land’s End in WE Jensen & The Boys at Bananarama Movie Night: 6-8pm movies at Bananarama in WB Karaoke Night: 6:30-9:30pm Music Jam: 6-9pm On the Pier at B.J´s Friday: 1pm The Backyard Paint Night: 4pm With Dip & Sip in WB Bananarama in WB Latin Night: 6:30-9pm Music Sing all night with DJ Tiger Tim Sunset with Kristofer Goldman at Banned at B.J´s Backyard in OR Roatan at Bananarama in WB Live Music: 6:30pm Live Music Drink Specials: 6-11pm live DJ Jam with Joel Escalona at The James at Bananarama in WB Caribe Tesoro in WB Live Music: 6:30-9:30pm with Sushi Nights: 6-7pm all you can eat with Kristofer & Friends at 7 days a week at Booty Bar in SunkenFish in SB Music Jam: 5-9pm with Brion Karaoke Night: 8pm-12am Sing all Bobby Rieman Band at sushi and happy hour at Aqua in Bananarama in WB WE Acoustic Night: 6:30pm Music James & The West End Players night with DJ Tiger Tim James at Bananarama in WB PB Fire Show: 6:30pm Fire Show Karaoke Night: 8pm sing all Jam with Brion James at Vintage at Caribe Tesoro in WB Blue Marlin in WE Karaoke Night: 6pm-12am Sing Island Music: 6-9pm With Jimmy with Paul & Crab Races at night at Kaluu Bar & Restaurant Pearl Restaurant in WB Live Music: 7pm Delicious BBQ + Karaoke Night: 8pm-12am Sing all All Night at The Buccaneer James at Bananarama in WB Bananarama in WB in WE Live Music: 2pm Live Music with Live Music at Coconut Tree in WE night with DJ Regis/Otta at Booty Restaurant & Bar in WE Music Night: 7pm with Brion James Sunday Funday: 12-5pm Live Diferrent artist every week at Leche Con Canela: 6pm Music night Bar in WE Island Music: 7:30pm with & The West End Players at Island Music at Barefoot Cay in BB Jonesville Point Marina - Trico and more at Hangover Hut in WB Summer Dawn: 6:30-8:30pm Muddy at Herby´s Sports Bar Beacher´s Bar & Grill in WB Sunday Funday: 6pm Leche Con Bar & Grill in JV Karaoke Night: 7:30pm Sing all music, food, drinks & more at & Grill in FH Pub Quiz: 7pm Live Music With Canela Live Music at Ginger´s night with P3lon Deejay at Celeste’s Island Cuisine in WB 2x1: 5-10pm two for one spe - Scott Chamberlain at Blue Marlin in Caribbean Grill in WE Herby’s Sports Bar & Grill in FH Trivia Night: 6pm All night fun at cial at Caribe Restaurant in BB WE Live Music: 2-5pm Live Music Paint Night: 4pm With Dip & Sip Coconut Tree in WE Live Music: 7pm With Kristofer & Live Music: 7:30pm Live Island With Jimmy James at The Jolly Roatan at Infinity Bay in WB Happy Hour & Paint Night: 5-7pm Kultura Band at Infinity Bay in WB Music with Muddy at Herby´s Octopus in SB Karaoke Night: 7pm Sing all night with Dip & Sip Roatan at Ibagari Live Music: 7:30pm with P3LON Sports Bar & Grill in FH La Palapa: 6-8:30pm food and at La Palapa at Infinity Bay in WB Boutique Hotel in WB Deejay at The Joint Roatan in WE Acoustic Music: 6-9pm Live Music drinks! Music Jam With Carleen Live Music: 6:30-9pm with Patty Movie Night: 7:15pm Only 24 Island Music: 8pm – with Dwin with Santy, Jimmy & The Boys Roth & The Canucks, Dave Nicol McCulla at Vintage Pearl Restaurant seats The Pineapple Grill at & The Happy Boys at Las Featuring Sopa at Las Palmas Beach & Other Special Guests at Infinity in WB Pineapple Villas in FH Palmas in DC Bar & Grill in DC Bay in WB