the art of horological complications

2020/2021 THE ART OF Horological Complications

© Gerhard D. Wempe KG, Hamburg 2020 Author: Thomas Wanka 2020/2021 Noble radiance BREITLING 81 Metal make wristwatches into sporty luxury items 8 Chronomat Limited Wempe Edition 82

ROLEX 19 85 Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II 20 Big Bang Integral 86 Oyster Perpetual - 40 22 CHOPARD 89 PATEK PHILIPPE 25 Alpine Eagle 90 Nautilus Chronograph 5980/1R 26 Nautilus 5711/1R 28 GIRARD-PERREGAUX 93 Laureato Ininity - exclusively available at Wempe 94 31 Marine Équation Marchante 32 97 Classique 7337 34 Excalibur Spider Huracán 98

A. LANGE & SÖHNE 37 FERDINAND BERTHOUD 101 Odysseus 38 Chronomètre FB 1 102 Zeitwerk 40 105 JAEGER-LECOULTRE 43 Executive Blast Black 106 Master Control Chronograph 44 TUDOR 109 Master Grande Tradition Grande 46 Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue 110 49 TAG HEUER 113 Pasha de Cartier 50 Carrera Heuer 02 114 53 WEMPE IRON WALKER GLASHÜTTE I/SA 117 Overseas Ultra-Thin 54 Iron Walker Automatic Chronograph 118 IWC 57 Iron Walker Automatic Diver‘s 120 Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 58 123 GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL 61 Spirit Pilot‘s Chronograph 124 Senator Cosmopolite 62 127 WEMPE CHRONOMETERWERKE GLASHÜTTE I/SA 65 Heritage Manufacture Pulsograph Limited Edition 128 Chronometerwerke Automatic Pilot‘s Watch 66 NOMOS GLASHÜTTE 131 175 of Watchmaking in Glashütte 68 Tangente Sport 132 ERWIN SATTLER 135 PANERAI 77 P 100 Bauhaus 136 Luminor Marina Fibratech 44 MM 78 Foreword

Time was originally measured according Our retrospective peers a bit fur- to the position of the sun, which is why ther back in to a structural develop- Romance languages use the same word for ment program that began exactly 175 years “weather” and “time.” The advancement of ago in the small, impoverished town of society can also be seen in the evolution of Glashütte in the Erz Mountains. This pro- time measurement, whose progress went gram’s unparalleled success proved that the from the to the geared and intentional establishment of watchmaking then the . The accuracy of in Glashütte was indeed the right decision. timekeeping, along with its global stand- The ’s is marked by polit- ardization and formalization, served as a ical upheavals, but the town’s inhabitants motor for the industrialized modern . were able to hold their own at all and It also contributes to the feeling that the under all circumstances thanks their com- pace of life has accelerated. mitment to watchmaking. This is why out- standing mechanical timepieces are still To prevent the from becoming a manufactured in Glashütte today. hasty form of the , this edition of The Art of Horological Complications Wempe wrote an important chapter in this takes a look to the past – but not too far ongoing success story. Our family-owned back. We focus our attention on the , company renovated Glashütte’s observatory, a that was a colorful ield of experi- establishing our own watch production mentation, especially in popular culture. facility and ’s only chronometer- The watch industry likewise found crea- testing facility there. tive ways to combine contrasts. One was a new generation of sporty luxury , Cordially yours, recognizable by their integrated bracelets made of stainless or . Nowadays these watches serving as role models for new editions are sought-after Hellmut Wempe collector’s items.

THE ART OF HOROLOGICAL COMPLICATIONS

Foreword 7 Noble radiance – renowned observatory in Kew, England metal bracelets make in 1914, Wilsdorf equipped every wristwatches into watch with a caliber that could pass the sporty luxury items chronometer test. Precision was no longer an unresolved issue, but resistance to water Legendary Abraham-Louis in its exposed position on the wrist re- Rolex President Breguet made the irst known wristwatch mained problematic. When Mercedes in 1810; its recipient was none other than Gleitze attempted to swim across the Eng- Napoleon’s sister, the Queen of Naples – lish Channel in 1927, Wilsdorf recognized they must begin their ascent without from the outset with a and for many thereafter, wearing the potential of her undertaking. “The exhausting their limited supply of air, tak- bracelet, it was the irst watch with a uni- a wristwatch was considered extremely Wonder Watch That Deies the Elements” ing into account any pauses for decompres- directionally rotating bezel to preset the unmanly. The vest pocket was where a proclaimed a headline in the Daily Mail sion that might be necessary along the way. intended dive time. Rolex chose the three- gentleman wore his watch, the quality and when Wilsdorf gave the swimmer a watch Émile Gagnan collaborated with oceano- row Oyster bracelet it had developed in material of whose chain indicated his social to carry with her on her adventurous swim. grapher Jacques-Yves Cousteau to develop the late to serve as the attachment for status. Only after half a had passed She wore the world’s irst water-resistant a breath regulator called the Aqualung its Submariner, which was created in 1953 in 1943; thanks to a breathing mixture in- and oficially launched in 1954. These irst side a pressurized cylinder, this metal bracelets were comparatively simple made possible – and diving constructions, but nonetheless empirically soon became important in military applica- proven and sturdy. The riveted stainless tions. Armies in many different countries steel bracelets on Tudor’s Black Bay models set up special divisions for frogmen. Recre- are reminiscent of these early attachments ational diving irst became popular in and pay tribute to the pioneering divers Rolex Oyster bracelet the and afterward developed into a of yesteryear. When Rolex presented the sport enjoyed by countless amateur divers. Oyster Perpetual Datejust in 1945, it was was the struggle for supremacy between wristwatch – appropriately called the With the increasing demand for watches equipped with a matching metal Jubilee the and the wristwatch “Oyster” and patented the before – not conceived expressly for divers, engineers bracelet. The President bracelet was intro- ultimately decided in favor of the latter. on her wrist, but around her neck. The irst at watch brands focused their efforts on duced with the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date Among other challenges, the watch bracelet serially manufactured Oyster models were constructing seawater-resistant metal in 1956 and is still exclusively reserved for played a decisive role in this. Describing likewise secured by leather straps. Wilsdorf bracelets. The irst wristwatch developed that model today. The Pearlmaster brace- the hurdles to be overcome, Rolex founder had big plans for wristwatches, realizing expressly for divers was the Fifty Fathoms, let debuted in 1992 and has accompanied Hans Wilsdorf asserted in typical terse they would quickly become fashionable which debuted in 1953. Designed the Pearlmaster ladies watch ever since. precision, “A wristwatch that cannot be re- accessories and accordingly needed to be lied on is not worth owning.” Wilsdorf able to “adapt to changes in taste.” Each meticulously worked through every chal- owner would want several watches, and if lenge. Registering “Rolex” as his brand’s they were not all acquired simultaneously, name in 1908, a mere two years later one of then at least successively. Water-resistant these became the irst wristwatch ever to materials for became urgent earn a chronometer certiicate; after he when divers needed to know exactly how even succeeded in obtaining one from the long they had been underwater and when Rolex Pearlmaster bracelet

8 metal bracelets metal bracelets 9 Metal bracelets also offered new possibili- epitome of a genuine luxury watch. This ties for innovative clasps. One of the best changed in the 1970s, a revolutionary dec- known is the Oysterclasp for all Oyster ade in more ways than one, in which new bracelets. In some models, this closure is materials such as plastic perfectly matched also equipped with a quick-adjustment the irresistible allure of rebellion. Novel mechanism: the Easylink enables its wearer styling and an unprecedented indulgence to readily adjust the bracelet by as much in vivid colors put a new face on everyday as ive millimeters. The bracelets of the life. This environment favored innovation, Rolex Professional models are secured but a new trend in the watch industry was by Oysterlock clasps, while those of the initially considered too revolutionary: Submariner, Sea-Dweller, and DeepSea stainless steel wristwatches with integrat- diver’s watches are equipped with Fliplock ed metal bracelets priced as high as watches IWC Yacht Master and Glidelock extensions; the latter two with precious metal cases and bracelets. mechanisms allow the bracelet’s length to Designer Gérald Genta (1931-2011) is in- be adjusted without taking the watch off separably associated with this new of Moreover, the watch case no longer needed attachments challenge every craftsper- the wrist. Metal bracelets are the optimal steel watches. Born in and trained to be round to accommodate a bar son involved in their production. Patek attachments for diver’s watches, which – at as a jewelry designer, Genta achieved his between the strap lugs. Customers’ reac- Philippe’s Nautilus serves as a good exam- the very latest since the advent of the James irst major success with ’s tions ranged from cautious to reserved at the ple to illustrate the complex processes and Bond ilms – can also be worn under the Royal Oak in 1972. The metal bracelet’s Royal Oak’s premiere in 1972 – as it was with diverse polishing techniques that are es- sleeve of a tuxedo . Although these direct connection to the case by means Genta’s Nautilus, which Patek Philippe sential to the success of a metal bracelet for sporty timepieces have enabled their wear- of two smaller elements that also function unveiled in 1976, and his Ingenieur SL by a luxury wristwatch: these steps include ers to distinguish themselves as true adven- as bracelet links achieved the unprece- IWC, the Royal Oak’s success story did not sandblasting (also known as lapping in spe- turers, a wristwatch with a bracelet dented feat of making stainless steel an begin until much later. IWC is currently cialist jargon), brushing, and high-gloss and a gold case was still considered the acceptable material for luxury watches. paying a very successful and appreciative polishing. Patek Philippe explains that tribute to Genta with the stainless steel after the irst processing by , no Patek Philippe Nautilus bracelet of the Portugieser Yacht Club. In fewer than 55 manual operations are subsequent years many models quietly dis- needed to complete the case and bracelet. appeared from the brands’ collections, but The handcrafting process begins with not from the memories of collectors: the each of the bracelet’s individual outer ele- combination of small quantities and bold ments, whose undersides are sanded while styling was very tempting for watch enthu- their upper surfaces are satin-inished. The siasts. Rapidly rising prices paid by collec- central elements follow: each underside tors for rare steel watches along with the is sanded while each upper side is polished. renaissance of the Next comes the assembly of the bracelet: prompted the brands to again include these individual elements are joined and pins are models in their portfolios. The challenges inserted. Sharp edges on the bracelet’s involved in stainless steel upper and lower surfaces are painstak- bracelets should not be underestimated, ingly beveled and smoothed and then though. These elaborately constructed satin- inished to create a inish.

10 metal bracelets metal bracelets 11 The next step is masking, which sees a integrated metal bracelet, which may be stainless steel. TAG Heuer, one of Hublot’s consisting of alternating polished and satin- protective ilm applied to individual areas made of stainless steel or other metals, sibling brands in the LVMH Group, inished elements, it has a signature safety on the outside of the bracelet not destined including precious alloys. Hublot is one of achieved a different historical signiicance clasp with a safety catch and integrated for treatment in the subsequent inishing the latest brands to conirm the undimin- with its Aqua Racer diver’s diver’s extension mechanism. process. Now the central elements and the ished momentum of this trend. As the third watch, which successfully Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato, beveled edges are polished to a high gloss. word in the name of the Big Bang Integral launched in 2003. A solid which premiered along with This is followed by itting the clasp, adjust- suggests, a metal bracelet has been inte- stainless steel clasp with an its three-row steel bracelet in ing its tension, and riveting the cover of grated into the flagship model of the sporty, integrated diver’s extension 1975, is likewise inextricably three-blade clasps. Every detail is exam- expressive brand. The core of Hublot’s mechanism and safety push linked to the history of luxury ined again during a inal inspection. Gérald brand essence comprises combining pieces secures this sporty steel watches. The bracelet’s Genta also created other groundbreaking precious metal cases with rubber straps, model’s inely brushed, three- cambered and polished mid- designs: Omega’s Constellation as well as which helped them to achieve a break- row, stainless steel bracelet. dle part harmonizes with the

Girard Perregaux Laureato

Longines Piaget TAG Heuer Aquaracer Hydro Conquest Polo

Longines offered divers inter- eye-catching bezel, which ’s Bvlgari Bvlgari and Octo are through in watches. Under the leitmotif of esting access to its collection juxtaposes straight lines and based on his ideas. Genta designed appeal- the “fusion” concept, Hublot successfully with the launch of the Hydro arcing curves. Piaget’s Polo ingly classic lines to go with his frequently introduced many unconventional materi- Conquest in 2007, which un- pursued a different creative octagonal cases connected by elaborately als, some appearing in this context for the derwent various facelifts and route to its goal in 1979, designed bracelets that adroitly combined irst time. But it was not until the arrival improvements in ensuing Hublot achieving an exciting contrast ine, multiple links. His bracelets often of the brand’s integrated metal bracelet that years. TAG Heuer has regu- Big Bang Intergral through the interplay be- tapered toward the clasps so that one com- the decisive design task seemed solved. larly updated and optimized tween the round periphery of ponent is hardly every precisely the same Remaining faithful to the brand’s DNA, its entire collection over the past decade the broad brushed bezel and its daring size as another. A sporty luxury watch can the elaborate bracelet with its wide central and more, and the Aqua Racer’s stainless inner contours with four semicircular hardly compete on the market without an elements is made of titanium rather than steel bracelet is among the beneiciaries: curves. This dialogue is enhanced by the

12 metal bracelets metal bracelets 13 proportions of the wide, satin-inished, are equipped with a double folding clasp. Santos de Cartier Parmigiani Tonda central element of the stainless steel Parmigiani likewise took a great leap bracelet with which the Polo S has been of- forward in 2020 with the Tonda GT and fered since 2016. It was not Gérald Genta, the Tondagraph GT chronograph: the but Jörg Hysek, who designed a steel brand headed by the internationally re- wristwatch with integrated bracelet for nowned restorer and watch designer Vacheron Constantin in 1977. Launched to Michel Parmigiani now presents a collec- celebrate the 222nd birthday of the brand tion of sporty watches with very slim and founded in Geneva in 1755, it served as handsomely integrated steel bracelets. a role model for Vacheron Constantin’s Panerai offers metal bracelets for some of Overseas, which appeared with its distinc- its models as well: the central section of the tive jagged bezel in 1996. The Maltese latest version recalls the conspicuous cross, which has been this brand’s regis- protectors of the Luminor and tered trademark since 1880, inspired this Luminor 1950; this bracelet only its those unusual bezel, and the distinctive cross re- models obviously. The metal bracelet of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Polaris is similarly Chopard’s Alpine Eagle recalls the brand’s curs in the bracelet components. An inno- striking. Contrasting broad, satin-inished, St. Moritz model, a famous interpretation vative strap-changing system was intro - central components and polished, beveled of a sporty luxury watch. The Alpine Eagle, duced in 2016 that has since allowed the elements along the side, the bracelet skill- which is also available in a chronograph stainless steel and precious metal bracelets fully prolongs the play of light reflecting off version as of this year, has a case made of to be readily removed and replaced with the Polaris’s alternately satin-inished and a special steel : Lucent A223 is un- rubber or leather straps. Cartier goes one brushed case. Breguet, which has always commonly resistant, bright, and reflective. step further: the owner of a Santos or Pasha felt very much at home in the elite world of This alloy’s sheen reminiscent of gold watch can disconnect its stainless steel ine watchmaking, now proves that it can results from the high purity of the material, bracelet and, furthermore, the bracelet’s also meet the challenges of robust watch- which is manufactured in a resource-saving components are designed so that the pins making in its Marine collection. And manner from up to 70% recycled steel. can be loosened and the links individually added or removed to alter the bracelet’s length by the owner – all without tools. With Breitling’s reissue of the Chronomat, this -based brand retrieved the Rouleaux bracelet from its archives, which was quite popular in its day. Introduced to fete Breitling’s 100th birthday in 1984, and now in reworked form, the Chronomat is an exemplary symbol of the revival of the mechanical wristwatch. Its integrated metal bracelet with its characteristic cylindrical elements was a major contribu- Breitling Chronomat Panerai tion to this model’s success; current models Santos de Cartier

14 metal bracelets metal bracelets 15 Glashütte Original recalled Special Edition 40 Years Wempe New York a diver’s watch from the Iron Walker Diver’s Watch recent past: the SeaQ col - lection is based on the Spezimatic Type RP TS 200, which was unveiled by VEB Glashütte Uhrenbetriebe in 1969. Available in a model with the brand’s typical panoramic date display, it wins admirers thanks to its uncommonly slim, three- Nomos Club Sport Neomatik 42 row, stainless steel bracelet, which is equipped with an eight-step ine adjustment mechanism. Iron Walker collection from Wempe light vividly but without sparkling. The Stainless steel played only a secondary role Glashütte I/SA. This line’s impressive wristwatch has been with us for a century, The epicenter of German watchmaking – at A. Lange & Söhne until 2019, when the styling beneits to no small degree from the but the fastening element that earns it the Glashütte – has recently seen elaborate and Odysseus joined this brand’s collection as integrated transition between the case and name wristwatch is not always given the at- exciting bracelet constructions that com- its irst serially manufactured stainless its bracelet: the case’s elegant lines contin- tention it deserves. Thanks to the integrat- bine outstanding and inno- steel wristwatch. The secure folding clasp ue into the H-shaped elements compris- ed bracelet, designers and engineers can vative styling. The Sport metal bracelet on this model’s ive-row stainless steel ing the bracelet, which tapers toward its explore and skillfully utilize new creative by Nomos Glashütte is nearly as complex bracelet can be adjusted in small incre- folding clasp. These parts are vertically potentials. And the bracelet’s fluent tran- as this brand’s watches, consisting of no ments to add up to seven millimeters to satin inished; their edges are chamfered sition into the case invites it to bask in a fewer than 145 individual parts, all of which its length. Pressing the button embossed and polished so the bracelet can reflect well-earned spotlight. are manually screwed together. In 2019, with the Lange logo allows the wearer to adjust the length by pulling or pushing the bracelet, an adjustment can be ac- complished without even opening the clasp. The steelworkers known as Iron Walkers, whose surefooted- ness and freedom from vertigo raised the steel skeletons of skyscrapers in ’s urban canyons to breathtaking heights in the , were Glashütte Original SeaQ the role models for the Wempe Iron Walker Diver’s Watch

16 metal bracelets metal bracelets 17 The Crown and the Camera

Marlon Brando wore a Rolex wristwatch when he played the role of Colonel Kurtz in Apocalypse Now. Another Rolex timepiece shone on Paul Newman’s wrist when he slipped into his alter ego as pool player “Fast” Eddie Felson in The Color of Money. And a third Rolex was strapped to the wrist of Bill Paxton in Titanic when he portrayed treasure hunter Brock Lovett, who ex- plored the famous shipwreck aboard a Alejandro G. Iñárritu Mir submersible. The wristwatches ap- peared in these movies not as a result of These four brand ambassadors, who were product placement, but thanks to the per- honored for their diverse achievements sonal preferences of the ilms’ directors. including a total of 57 Oscars, have made it Rolex has been the exclusive for their missions to share their life experienc- the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and es with young ilmmakers. Through the since 2017 and sponsors the Rolex Mentor and Master Student Initia- Oscars ®, which are awarded by the Acade- tive, the brand with the crown-shaped my. Rolex is also a founding sponsor of logo supports aspiring ilmmakers through the Academy Museum of Motion Pic- mentoring and contributes to culture by tures: designed by architect and Pritzker passing on world-renowned artistic her- Prize winner Renzo Piano, the museum is itage. Both Scorsese and Iñárritu have intended to serve as a central meeting mentored master students in this program. place for cineastes and will include, among Since 2002, talented young artists from a its other attractions, approximately 4,600 variety of disciplines have been chosen to square meters of exhibition and work creatively and for an extended period a cinema auditorium with seating for of time with masters of their ield. Other 1,000 viewers. Rolex also has partnerships mentors in the ilm genre have been Alfon- with Kathryn Bigelow, James Cameron, so Cuarón, Stephen Frears, Mira Nair, Alejandro G. Iñárritu, and Martin Scorsese. Zhang Yimou, and ilm editor Walter Murch. THE ART OF HOROLOGICAL COMPLICATIONS

ROLEX 19 Oyster Perpetual facturer to design a watch for its pilots GMT-Master II that could display the time in more than one zone and Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual The development of aviation surely ranks GMT-Master was born in 1955. It was among the greatest achievements of hu- subsequently produced in numerous vari- mankind in the twentieth century. From ants, but each has the typical 24- two- Otto Lilienthal’s initial bouncing attempts color bezel for day/night indication and and the Wright brothers’ irst powered the distinctive triangular 24-hour hand. flight, the pathway into the air pro- The GMT-Master II was powered by gressed with extraordinary Caliber 3085 from 1982 onward. speed toward the irst This model’s 24-hour hand commercial flight in can be reset in hourly 1914, when a flying increments to show a boat carried passen- different hour with- gers from St. Peters- out affecting the po- burg in Florida to sition or progress neighboring Tampa. of the minute and And civil aviation second hands. The continued its dynamic 40 mm GMT-Master II development; pleasantly is currently available surprised passengers were in several variations, in- served by the world’s irst stew- cluding two models in stain- ardess on May 15, 1930. As air travel less Oystersteel with Jubilee grew progressively more popular, flight bracelets and one model in Everose gold attendants became commonplace aboard with an Oyster bracelet. Its automatic airliners. In the and , commer- Caliber 3285 supports fast, independent cial jets enabled passengers to travel to resetting of the hour hand to indicate far-flung locations around the world faster the time in a second zone. This caliber than ever. And suddenly there was no boasts a 70-hour power reserve and is accu- longer only one time but more than two rate to plus or minus two per day. dozen different times, each speedily acces- Numerals and graduated markings are en- sible simply by crossing the boundary of graved into the bidirectionally rotating Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II in 18-karat Everose gold, its . Pan Am, one of the largest two-color – brown and black – Cerachrom manufacture Caliber 3285, Superlative Chronometer airlines at the time, asked a Swiss manu- ceramic bezel. (COSC + Rolex certiication after casing of the movement)

20 ROLEX ROLEX 21 Oyster Perpetual on the three-link President bracelet with Day-Date 40 – The semi-rounded link elements, a bracelet Presidential Watch that still remains exclusively reserved for the Day-Date. The bezel’s fluting original- Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf brought his ly served a practical purpose: it was used vision to fruition with the introduction as a irm grasp so the component could of the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date in 1956. be screwed to the case band, thereby en- Since registering the Rolex brand in Swit- suring the watch’s water resistance. The zerland in 1908 his aim had been to build bezel fluting therefore corresponded to the perfect wristwatch, which he its counterpart on the case back. approached with the Oyster Rolex built special tools to featuring a water- and screw the case’s back to shockproof case. Cer- the case band, thus tiied chro nometers, making the watch his movements en- uncommonly water- joyed a reputation resistant. The fluting for high precision. serves only aesthetic The premiere of the pur poses nowadays. automatically winding The Oyster Perpetual Perpetual rotor in 1931 Day-Date is offered solely made his Oyster watches in gold. The Day-Date 40 indispensable in houses Caliber 3255, which was daily life. Rolex celebrated its fortieth launched in 2015. Equipped with a bidi- anniversary with the Datejust in 1945, and rectionally winding rotor, this automatic Wilsdorf presented the 100,000th chro- movement boasting a 70-hour power re- nometer to none other than Winston serve relies on a progressive Chronergy Churchill in 1947. The Day-Date followed . Its two components – lever as the “Presidential Watch”: this iconic and escape wheel – are made of a nickel- model is most often seen gracing the phosphorus alloy that are resistant to wrists of presidents, leaders, and visionar- magnetic interference. The escape wheel ies. With the full weekday spelled out at is openworked, which reduces its weight 12 o’clock and the date in a window at and thus also its inertia, thereby boosting Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 in 18-karat Everose gold, 3 o’clock, the Day-Date remains true to its its eficiency. The rate is accurate to with- manufacture movement Caliber 3255, Superlative Chronometer basic characteristics. This model comes in plus or minus two seconds per day. (COSC+ Rolex certiication after casing of the movement)

22 ROLEX ROLEX 23 New Premises Create equally striking due to its emphatically New Opportunities modern architecture, which distinguishes the building as a new landmark in Plan-les- Accommodating complex and complicated Ouates. Spacious glass surfaces – plenty of things in the smallest of is a Patek daylight is indispensable for – Philippe specialty. Almost a quarter of a are subdivided by bronze-colored ire es- century after inaugurating the irst factory inspired by similar constructions on building in the Geneva suburb Plan-les- buildings in New York City and white con- Ouates, in 2015 the manufacture decided to lay the foundation stone for a new building. Patek Philippe’s watch collection had evolved considerably during the preceding quarter of a century; complicated watches currently comprise nearly half of all models, where so-called useful complications like annual , the “weekly” calendar, time zone displays, and world-time watches are enjoying particularly strong growth. This has lead to an increase in the average number of components per watch and cor- responding complexity in the production Patek Philippe manufacture building process. The new building nonetheless proved essential despite the fact that no in- crete walkways along the entire length of creases are planned to the annual produc- the façade. The building resembles an enor- tion of 62,000 watches; the yearly quota is mous ocean liner with clearly deined forms. naturally limited by the extremely strict The interior is divided into ive segments, quality requirements of the Patek Philippe which can be accessed via four staircases Seal. Construction work on the new build- and more than 20 passenger and freight ing was completed and production activi- elevators. An auditorium offers seating for ties commenced there at the beginning of up to 299 persons. The building is crowned 2020. And Patek Philippe’s new building is on the ifth floor by a penthouse restaurant already impressive thanks to its sheer size: with 880 seats and a fantastic panoramic 189 by 67 by 34 meters with ten floors, in- view of the surrounding countryside as THE ART OF HOROLOGICAL COMPLICATIONS cluding four underground stories. It is well as four lounges for VIP guests.

Patek Philippe 25 Nautilus 12-hour totalizer is positioned at 6 o’clock. Chronograph 5980/1R The 5980’s rose gold case spans 40.5 mm when measured across the dial’s center from The octagonal bezel tracing gentle curves the 10 to the 4, and it is 12.2 mm in height. It rather than straight lines unmistakably is also water-resistant to 12 bar, which cor- bears the signature of Gérald Genta, who responds to a depth of 120 meters. Its Ca- irst sketched Patek Philippe’s Nautilus in liber CH 28-520 C consists of 308 com - 1976. A chronograph encasing powered by ponents, including 13 bridges. When fully Caliber CH 28-520 C was added to the col- wound, it boasts a maximum power reserve lection to celebrate the thirtieth anniversary of 55 . This movement’s Gyromax bal- of the Nautilus; its pushers triggering the ance is paced at 28,800 vibrations per hour chronograph’s functions are discreetly inte- and equipped with a Spiromax hairspring, grated into the case, which resembles a port- unveiled by the Patek Philippe Advanced hole. The broad, satin-inished bezel, the al- Research Department in 2006 and made of ternatingly polished and satin-inished sur- Silinvar®, which was likewise developed by faces of the case, and the integrated flanks of Patek Philippe and presented the year the bracelet create an appealing and varied before. The name combines syllables bor- play of light. The dial’s embossed decora- rowed from the words “silicon” and “invaria- tion with black gradient is another typical ble.” Monocrystalline silicon is extremely feature of the Nautilus, while the hands and stable, lightweight, twice as applied gold indices glow in the dark. The hard as steel, and very resistant to wear and chronograph’s combined 60-minute and tear. A Spiromax hairspring has less mass and is only two-thirds as tall as a Breguet hairspring, so it undergoes less stress from and impacts. Patek Philippe patent- ed the geometry of the spring with its char- acteristic thickening at its outer end, the integrated fastening for its stud, and its self-centering integrated collet – features that contribute to the watch’s ac- curate timekeeping. The Patek Philippe Seal introduced in 2009 conirms that the watch’s rate does not stray beyond the nar- row range from –3 to +2 seconds per day. 18k rose gold, self-winding movement, chronograph

26 Patek Philippe Patek Philippe 27 From ingredients for a model soon to become a to Tuxedo – classic. When this watch was launched in Nautilus 5711/1R 1976, customers irst had to get used to its modern design. New materials, colors, fab- The irst design of the Nautilus is the brain- rics, and shapes were revolutionizing the child of Gérald Genta, the ingenious de- look of daily life in the 1970s, but a sports signer who conceived numerous stainless watch from Patek Philippe still seemed un- steel watches in the 1970s. Patek Philippe familiar to many customers. History soon brought him on board to create a sportier bestowed success on the innovative spirit of watch model that would enable the brand the family-run manufacture. The Nautilus now ranks among the world’s most sought-after watches. Its name comes from Jules Verne’s famous novel Twenty Thou- sand Leagues Under the Sea. The portholes of Captain Nemo’s eponymous submarine had a similar oval shape in some depictions. Like a ship’s window, the bezel is screwed to the case. This was necessary in order to achieve water resistance to 120 meters (12 bar), which was rather deep according to the standards of the time. The model’s dar- ingly creative advertising slogan was, “It looks as sharp with a tux as it does with a scuba .” The Nautilus underwent a ju- to appeal to a new customer base. Genta dicious facelift in 2006 when it was given certainly delivered the goods: the eye- a three-part case and a central second hand. catching porthole design, the interplay of Automatic manufacture Caliber 26-330 S C polished and satin-inished components, can be viewed through the and the prominent integrated bracelet case back. Water resistance to 12 bar and initially made of stainless steel were the the integrated bracelet remain unchanged.

18k rose gold, self-winding movement

28 Patek Philippe Patek Philippe 29 More than Seductive Embellishments

It was Abraham-Louis Breguet who irst used guilloche patterns to decorate time- pieces in 1786: the impressive aesthetics of the inal result lent a silky appearance and pleasant texture to the watch’s case. Breguet’s real interest, however, was in the additional functionality offered by a guilloche pattern as the technique protects the decorated object against wear and scratches that tended to mar smoothly polished surfaces. Guilloche, it turned out, also improved light reflection, making Guilloche under a the dial easier to read; additionally, differ- ent decorative patterns could be used to process. On the contrary, everything here mark off each indication such as the hours is handcrafted and only possible thanks to and , the seconds, a power-reserve manual guidance: while the ’s left display, and various other counters. Guil- hand turns a crank to drive the machine, loche is a mechanical handcraft comprising his or her right hand pushes a carriage delicate and precise engraving of the ma- holding the graver tool, which engraves the terial with complex patterns consisting of material. Great skill and many years of straight, curved, continuous, and broken experience are required in order to master lines. This ine work is carried out with the all the subtleties of this art form, which the aid of a hand-guided guilloche tool capable Breguet brand continues to cultivate at of producing circular igures or linear its manufactory in L’Orient, in the heart of patterns. A skillful artisan can lead the ine the Vallée de Joux. In workshops expressly grooves (guilloche patterns) to run parallel created for this purpose, approximately to or cross one another, thus forming a twenty specially trained craftspeople work repetitious, symmetrical pattern. Although with both historical and modern guilloche the technique requires the aid of a machine, that were designed and manufac- it is by no means an automated industrial tured in-house. THE ART OF HOROLOGICAL COMPLICATIONS

Breguet 31 Ménage à Trois collection. A irst glance at the dial con- of Superlatives irms that this line literally has sailor’s blood in its veins: an exquisite guilloche The Renaissance man Abraham-Louis pattern in the form of little waves creates Breguet, an all-around genius, was interest- maritime accents on the watch dial. The ed in all areas of watchmaking, but particu- Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante, larly in marine , a specialized without a doubt the technical flagship of ield that was already leading horological the line, is a masterpiece of haute horlog- research during Breguet’s lifetime. Not erie combining three of the most sophisti- only among the great seafaring nations cated grand complications: a one-minute were precise nautical instruments for con- tourbillon, a perpetual calendar, and an quering the oceans the timepieces of the display. The so-called hour. Breguet, who was a member of the equation indicates not only mean time but Bureau des , was appointed also true , which can differ from watchmaker of the Royal Navy by King mean time by up to +16 or -14 minutes over Louis XVIII in the autumn of 1815. This the course of a year. It is linked to the marked the beginning of a tradition that perpetual calendar, which, as if by magic, continued into the 1960s and is now beau- will automatically take into account the tifully expressed in the brand’s Marine differing lengths of the until the last day of February 2100. The retrograde date display is a charming addition, whose hand hurries back to its starting position after reaching the end of its 180-degree scale. The technical virtuosity is further enhanced by a slender caliber: this rare gem is powered by extra-thin automatic Caliber 581DPE, which boasts a silicon escape wheel, a silicon balance spring, and an 80-hour power reserve. A total of 563 components nestle into a very small volume of space, working together in per- fect harmony to display the time – and so much more. 18k rose gold, self-winding-movement, tourbillon, perpetual calendar

32 Breguet Breguet 33 Consummate Simplicity

The special fascination of Breguet wrist- watches lies in their perfect proportions, which lend a profoundly harmonious and elegant appearance to this manufacture’s exquisite timepieces. Beginning with the numerals and indexes, continuing with the hands and indications, then to the case and bezel, and culminating in the strap and clasp, perfection in form results from the meticulously measured dimensions of every element, including the tiny, barely visible details. This harmonious charm is particu- larly expressive in the Classique line; con- subdials were also not a mere aesthetic gim- noisseurs often agree that these timepieces mick, but served to clearly distinguish are the ones epitomizing Breguet watches. among the displays. These are flanked in Each pays homage to the brand’s ingenious the Classique 7337 by two cloud-shaped founder, whose legacy is reflected in diverse windows in which the date and the weekday of the watch. Arguably the most out- appear. Enthroned above this ensemble, standing example is the new Classique 7337 the moon phase display also indicates the with its guilloche dial, whose intense blue current age of the earth’s companion, which color acquires unique radiance thanks to is portrayed in white gold against the back- diverse iligree patterns: a barleycorn motif ground of a naturalistic starry sky. As in for the periphery of the hour circle, a check- every Breguet watch, the external aesthet- erboard pattern for the small seconds sub- ics reflect the fascinating mechanical inte- dial, and the famous clous de motif in rior. A pane of sapphire crystal in the back the dial’s center. It is well known that this of the white gold case reveals extra-thin au- rare handcraft is a style-forming feature tomatic Caliber 502.3 QSE1, which is lav- that traces its ancestry to Abraham-Louis ishly and traditionally inished by true Breguet, who introduced it in 1786. The masters of their . Modernity, on the original purpose of guilloche was not to add other hand, is embodied by the innovative embellishment to Breguet’s pocket watches, silicon hairspring enhancing the precision 18k white gold, self-winding movement, but to im prove their legibility. Off-center of the timekeeping. moon-phase display, small seconds subdial

34 Breguet Breguet 35 Every Watch Is Meticulous inishing is even lavished on Assembled Twice parts that are later hidden. Each Lange movement is then meticulously assembled There is only one quality standard at and inely adjusted until all mechanical A. Lange & Söhne: perfection. All compo- parts perfectly interact – only to be com- nents are elaborately inished by hand and pletely disassembled afterwards, at which each watch is assembled twice, no matter time all parts are painstakingly cleaned. whether the timepiece is a perpetual cal- The inest inishing and polishing is also endar, a minute repeater, an automatic, or applied to the component surfaces later a simple three-handed model. One reason visible through the sapphire crystal on the for this repeated assembly is the three-quar- back of the case. Only after the three- quarter ter plate: introduced by Ferdinand Adolph plate has been decorated with characteristic Lange in 1864, it provides more support to Glashütte ribbing and the last gold chaton the movement’s moving parts as a single has received its high-gloss polish is the spacious bridge spans the entire gear train. movement assembled a second time using But this capacious plate also makes assem- up to eight different lubricants. And now bly more dificult because even an experi- thermally blued screws replace the provi- enced watchmaker must screw it on and off sional screws used in the irst assembly. several times until each individual shaft provides optimal vertical play. A second reason for assembling the movement twice is that the three-quarter plate is traditional- ly made from nickel . This special alloy of , nickel, and zinc ensures that the movement is held with great stability. As time passes, the alloy also acquires a warm, subtly golden patina that naturally protects the plate’s surface and makes galvanic - ing unnecessary. However, this handsome patina is unforgiving: a ingertip can leave a permanent print and an inaccurately guided screwdriver can cause light scratch- es. Many long hours are spent inely inish- THE ART OF HOROLOGICAL COMPLICATIONS ing and polishing nearly all components. Fitting of the balance spring

A. Lange & Söhne 37 Odysseus case with a grey dial, the dark background of which enhances the legibility of the A. Lange & Söhne’s latest model family is white gold hands and notched baton- already welcoming a new member: the shaped applied markers. These handsome- Odysseus, introduced in 2019, is the irst ly match the large date numerals and stainless steel watch produced in series by weekday display, whose white letters stand the Saxon manufactory. Robust construc- out against a grey background. The hour tion and a case water-resistant to a depth of indices are noctilucent, as are the hour and 120 meters mean that this model can also minute hands. The dial gains an appealing- be worn in situations where a precise me- ly vivid and almost sculptural quality thanks to an embossed grooved texture beneath the applied hour markers and sub- dial scale for the seconds. This contrasts with the matte inner surfaces of the main dial and subdial. Above and below the crown, wedge-shaped push pieces to ad- just the date and weekday lend a distinctive shape to the tripartite white gold case. An interplay of brushed matte surfaces and polished bevels adorns the case and strap lugs. Manufacture Caliber L155.1 Datomatic ticks inside the case, a movement whose name alludes to its combination of date mechanism and automatic winding. Ensur- chanical watch would not typically accom- ing a highly stable rate, the balance vibrates pany its wearer. A large weekday window at at a of 28,800 vibrations per 9 o’clock, diametrically opposite the outsize hour (four Hertz), while recessed regulat- date at 3 o’clock, distinguishes this sportily ing screws minimize air turbulence that elegant timepiece. In addition to the stain- could adversely affect the rate. The move- less steel version, the Odysseus is now also ment boasts a maximum power reserve of available in white gold with an integrated 50 hours, while a large central rotor with leather or rubber strap. The new model a peripheral weight ensures re- combines an 18-karat white gold 40.5 mm liable winding. 18k white gold, self-winding movement, small seconds subdial, sapphire crystal case back

38 A. Lange & Söhne A. Lange & Söhne 39 Zeitwerk structed so that the number of tones chim- Minute Repeater ing full-hour, ten-minute, and single- minute intervals is scanned directly from The Zeitwerk Minute Repeater is the only stepped snails connected to the display wristwatch in the world to combine me- mechanism. This ensures that the audibly chanical jumping numerals with a decimal announced time always precisely matches minute repeater. It had been available only the time shown on the dial. A spring in platinum since its premiere in 2015, but supplies the energy for the striking mecha- now A. Lange & Söhne presents a limited nism, while a push piece on the side of the edition of thirty pieces in 18-karat white case triggers the Zeitwerk’s minute repeat- er. By omitting a conventional slide, the case is more effectively sealed; the watch is water-resistant to three bar. Manufacture Caliber L043.5 is equipped with sophisti- cated safety mechanisms to guarantee reli- able functioning of the complex striking mechanism under all circumstances. Me- chanical conflicts could occur if time set- ting were initiated while the repeater is chiming, so the system delays advancing the numeral disks should this happen. Likewise, for safety’s sake, the crown can- not be pulled out while the striking mecha- gold cases with deep blue dials crafted in nism is active. This also ensures that the solid silver. The striking mechanism of the acoustic time indication always perfectly Zeitwerk Minute Repeater chimes double corresponds to the time displayed. Finally, strokes at ten-minute intervals rather than the striking mechanism cannot be trig- the usual quarter hours – which matches gered if the watch’s remaining power re- the “digital” display of the time, so what you serve is less than twelve hours, which see is what you hear. The gongs and ham- means that the chiming is always complet- mers are unobtrusively integrated into the ed and the watch cannot stop running while dial’s design and meticulously tuned by the repeater is striking. A red dot on the hand to produce a rich and harmonious power-reserve indicator scale indicates the 18k white gold, hand-wound movement, digital display, sound. The striking mechanism is con- crucial twelve-hour mark. minute repeater, sapphire crystal case back

40 A. Lange & Söhne A. Lange & Söhne 41 The Quest for with the ultra-slim Hybris Mechanica 11. Crystal-Clear Sound It ensures that even when the quarter hours are not struck, the minute chimes immedi- Among grand complications, the minute ately follow the hour strokes. Calibre 950, repeater is regarded as extremely sophis- which was launched in 2019, embodied an- ticated and demanding. It gives a voice to time: the user can trigger it to chime the hours, quarter hours, and minutes en- tirely as desired. A true master in this ield, Jaeger-LeCoultre had already developed approxi mately 100 minute repeaters up to 1900. The fact that the original mechanism is still valid and needs improvement only in its details speaks to the genius of the watchmakers of yesteryear, who found ways to install a melodic ensemble within the small volume of space bounded by the case of a pocket watch. This is why Jaeger-LeCoultre now focuses on optimiz- ing the sound. The manufacture relies on Gongs of the Master Grande Tradition modern methods and , e.g. Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle synthetic sapphire crystal, to assure a per- fect audible experience. The “crystal gongs”, other premiere in the form of an innova- which were patented in 2005, are soldered tively designed gong. Instead of a flat directly onto the watch glass, which reso- arrangement of overlapping coils, the two nates along with the gong and thus ampli- gongs wind in the same direction almost ies its sound. In order to produce an evenly once around the movement’s periphery powerful strike, the little gongs are square before bending upwards to form two semi- in cross-section and have a flat surface circles around the upper part of the move- against which the even tinier ment. This improves the and strike. The speed and power of the blow is assures that the chimes with a crystal- optimized by the trebuchet hammers, clear sound, which is emotionally echoed which debuted in 2009. Jaeger-LeCoultre by connoisseurs in the form of incompara- THE ART OF HOROLOGICAL COMPLICATIONS introduced a new synchronisation function ble moments of happiness.

Jaeger-LeCoultre 43 Master Class presents a new generation of watches whose styling is inspired by several iconic The Master Control collection has shone watches of the 1950s – the Memovox, with virtuosic mechanics and unmistaka- Futurematic, and PowerMatic models for ble elegance since 1992. When it premiered example. True to these role models, the on the stage of Swiss haute horlogerie, it not stylistic revision prioritized timeless de- only convinced aicionados with its func- sign with a focus on detail and function. tionality, practicality and aesthetics, but The case radiates a simple elegance with a also set new standards thanks to a novel modern touch expressed through its quality certiicate. With the advent of this well-proportioned diameter of 40 millime- ters, a bezel that slopes slightly downward toward the outer rim, and dynamically curved strap lugs. The same elegance also distinguishes the silver dial with its deli- cate sunburst inish. The technical highlight is the Master Control Chronograph Calendar, which is powered by new Caliber 759. The au- tomatic movement boasts a 65-hour power reserve when fully wound and is equipped with a complex column- wheel chronograph with ver- tical clutch as well as a full calendar with weekday, , date pointer, and moon phase indicator. A chrono graph augment- certiicate, Jaeger- LeCoultre ired off a ed with these calendric complications is starting signal for a rigorous testing pro- a irst for Jaeger-LeCoultre. Despite its nu- cess – the “1,000 Hours Control” certii- merous displays, the dial is well balanced cate – in which the encased movement and intuitively legible. Even the sharply de- is thoroughly tested for 1,000 hours be- lineated strokes of the pulsometer scale fore the completed watch may to leave the along the flange blend harmoniously into manufacture. This year, Jaeger-LeCoultre the expressive overall picture. Stainless steel, self-winding movement, chronograph, full calendar, moon-phase display

44 Jaeger-LeCoultre Jaeger-LeCoultre 45 Heavenly Trinity complex striking mechanism is set in motion by activating the slide in the left Jaeger-LeCoultre brings three large com- flank of the case, this wristwatch’s wearer plications to the wrist with the Master hears what they see and sees what they Grande Tradition Grande Complication: a hear. Jaeger-LeCoultre has been a master minute repeater, a tourbillon, and a sidereal of repeating watches for over 150 years and calendar. Each of these complications is a has devised numerous to per- masterpiece in its own right, but as a trio fect the quality of their sound. For example, they embody a rare achievement in modern to beneit from the unique acoustics of synthetic sapphire crystal, the patented gongs are soldered directly to the sapphire crystal, which resonates along with the gongs, thus amplifying their sound. While the repeater musically delights the ears, the eyes can feast on an orbital tourbillon and a detailed miniature celestial map de- picting the starry irmament as it appears above the Vallée de Joux. The displays and functions are as complex as the construc- tion: the tourbillon not only rotates around its own axis once every 60 seconds, but also completes one complete revolution per sidereal day above the multilevel dial. The sidereal day lasting 23 hours, 56 minutes, and 4.1 seconds is accordingly somewhat shorter than the solar day upon which our haute horlogerie that very few manufacto- is based; astronomers use these ries in the world have mastered. Perhaps approximately four extra minutes to follow the most demanding of these feats of watch- the visible motion of celestial bodies across making is the minute repeater, a function the night sky. A small golden sun at the edge that can be triggered by its wearer to chime of this watch’s constellation disk in dicates the time whenever desired. As soon as the the date, month, and zodiacal signs and precisely orchestrated ensemble of the points to the 24-hour scale on the flange. 18k rose gold, tourbillon, self-winding movement, moon-phase display

46 Jaeger-LeCoultre Jaeger-LeCoultre 47 Centurial Witnesses never to have taken it off, even during breaks between shots. Nobody seemed to Gary Cooper, Alain Delon, and Gunter be bothered by the fact that the Tank’s cool, Sachs wore them. As did Princess Diana, classic appearance contrasted starkly with Catherine Deneuve, and Jackie Onassis. Valentino’s opulent oriental . And Cartier’s celebrity factor is unique even precisely herein lies the secret to the suc- in the luxurious world of the rich and fa- cess of all Cartier timepieces: they brilliant- mous; iconic timepieces from ly unite contrasts and seem to this exclusive house have shone take delight in playing with on the wrists of the international them. Cartier’s bold and inci- set throughout the last cen- sive designs (square, rectangu- tury. The Tank, history’s irst lar, round, or cushion-shaped) unisex wristwatch, is particu- coupled with the accentuation larly popular: important politi- and perfection of selected de- cians such as Jacques Chirac, tails have resulted in veritable leading avant-garde artists, icons of timekeeping for more members of the intellectual than a century. Needless to say, scene, and the most famous Cartier’s experts have mas- designers, including tered all disciplines of jewelry Yves-Saint Laurent and Jean- and craftsmanship. The time- Charles de Castelbajac, all wore pieces’ exteriors are so expres- Tanks. A legendary quip is sive that one could almost attributed to Andy Warhol, Tank de Cartier forget how exquisite their in- who didn’t think it necessary to in an teriors are. That would be a wind his Tank: “I don’t wear it to asymmetric shape most lamentable omission be- tell me the time,” the Pop Art cause Cartier has evolved into icon is reputed to have once said in his a full-fledged manufacture under the di- characteristically brusque manner. Many rection of chief watchmaker Carol Foresti- legends have grown up around the Tank. er-Kasapi. From spectacular to Actor Rudolph Valentino is said to have secret watches and perpetual calendars, insisted on wearing his Tank during the the maison de Cartier has mastered the en- entire shooting of The Sheikh’s Son and tire repertoire of haute horlogerie.

THE ART OF HOROLOGICAL COMPLICATIONS

Cartier 49 The Squaring of catching blued sword-shaped hands con - the Circle or tinue the appealing interplay of contrasts. Charisma Down to The Pasha de Cartier is once again in the Smallest Detail the limelight this year, presented in a new generation. The most emblematic model In 1985, Cartier reafirmed that it is al- from an artisanal point of view is the ways good for a surprise by presenting the Pasha de Cartier Skeleton, which features Pasha de Cartier, a new watch line that once the time- honored Swiss handcraft of skel- again demonstrated the brand’s creativity etonizing in its most beautiful form. The and unerring sense of style. The watch’s individual components of manufacture nonchalant personality is no less striking Caliber 9624 MC have been painstakingly than its name: in the charged ield between freed from all superfluous material so that the two most contradictory geometric their precise interplay, function, and tiniest shapes – the circle and the square – this details can be admired from every side model embodies a profoundly original de- without obstruction. Like the other models sign that has lost none of its fascination and in the collection, the Pasha de Cartier sophistication 35 years later. As is usual for Skeleton is equipped with a number of this French brand, the focus was on the per- innovative features like the QuickSwitch fection of form. The squared railroad min- system. A paragon of ingenuity and sim- ute track, which Cartier eloquently calls plicity, this mechanism enables the wearer chemin de fer, blends harmoniously into to change straps entirely without the need the circular dial. Four prominent, emphat- for a tool. The SmartLink system likewise ically sweeping Arabic numerals and eye- requires no tool, making it child’s play for the watch’s owner to adjust the length of the watch’s metal bracelet. The “chained” crown mechanism, which has always been one of the most important design elements of the Pasha de Cartier, has also been re- designed. Cartier has gone one step further in the new version by adding a little plate that can be engraved with initials con- cealed beneath the crown, which is topped off with either a blue or a sapphire. Stainless steel, self-winding movement, skeletonized

50 Cartier Cartier 51 Perfection has many Faces

Goethe was just six years old when Vacher- on Constantin was founded in Geneva in 1755. Fourteen years before Napoleon Bon- aparte was born, the manufacture on the legendary watchmaking isle Quai de l’Île on the banks of Lake Geneva’s Rhône river was already working toward the motto of its founder Jean Marc Vacheron: “Do it better whenever possible – and that is always pos- Manufacture building sible.” In 1819 François Constantin joined the company, which has done business dedicated to the revolutionary design idiom as Vacheron Constantin ever since, unin- of the 1970s; the Malte collection is charac- terruptedly continuing to manufacture terized by its charming tonneau-shaped watches to this day. The Maltese cross was case; and with the Métiers d’Art pieces, registered as the company’s logo in 1880. Vacheron Constantin preserves traditional This manufacture has stood for the highest decorative techniques such as enameling, art of watchmaking, so-called belle haute engraving, gem-setting, and guilloche. horlogerie, for more than a quarter of a According to the spirit of its founders, the . Generations of master watch- manufacture continues the tradition of makers continue to perfect the experience offering its discerning clientele the option and knowledge they have acquired at the of having a watch made entirely to their Genevan manufacture. In addition to count- own speciications. For this purpose, the less awards, this mastery is also afirmed by company has a special department, Les the Hallmark of Geneva, Swiss watchmak- Cabinotiers, which cultivates the knowledge ing’s oldest seal of quality for exquisite and and expertise needed to manufacture these technically reined timepieces. The brand’s outstanding one-of-a-kind pieces. This was Patrimony line is classic thanks to the sim- also the birthplace of Reference 57260: cur- plicity of its shapes; Historiques reinter- rently the world’s most complicated porta- prets historical models with contemporary ble timepiece, the pocket watch is equipped mechanisms; the sporty Overseas line is with no fewer than 57 complications. THE ART OF HOROLOGICAL COMPLICATIONS

Vacheron Constantin 53 Overseas Perpetual the months, but also takes into account the Calendar Ultra-Thin leap years, when February is given an extra day. This calendar accordingly needs no Uniting complex mechanisms in the small- manual correction until the last day of Feb- est amount of space is a challenge that prac- ruary in the year 2100. An oscillating weight titioners of the high art of watchmaking made of 22-karat gold supplies the Over- are keen to accomplish. One of the inest seas with the energy it needs. Even if the examples is the ultra-thin perpetual calen- watch is not worn, its fully wound main- dar of Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas spring stores enough power for approxi- line. Its automatic movement is 29.6 milli- mately 40 hours. The slim movement is meters in diameter and 4.05 millimeters in housed in a similarly thin case made of height. This conined space hosts individu- 18-karat rose gold that is 41.5 millimeters in al 276 components, including 36 jewels diameter, a mere 8.1 millimeters in height, serving as gear train bearings. Beating at and containing an inner core made of soft a frequency of 19,800 vibrations per hour, iron to protect the movement from magnet- the mechanism powers displays for the ic influences. This watch’s impressive inner hours, minutes, and moon phases as well workings are only one source of pleasure for as a perpetual calendar indicating the its owner: admiring gazes are irresistibly weekday, date, month, and on a drawn to the dial, which boasts a transpar- 48-month counter. A perpetual calendar ent coating of blue lacquer, a satin-inished not only “knows” the differing lengths of sunburst inish, and a velvety minute scale. The hour hand, minute hand, and hour markers are made of 18-karat rose gold and coated with a white luminescent substance that radiates a bluish glow in the dark. The elements of the 18-karat rose gold bracelet are shaped like half of a Maltese cross. Thanks to a sophisticated quick change system the bracelet can be easily removed without any tool and replaced by a blue alligator leather strap with large rectan- gular reptilian scales. A strap made of blue rubber is also included. 18k rose gold, self-winding movement, perpetual calendar, moon-phase display

54 Vacheron Constantin Vacheron Constantin 55 Navigation on the Wrist

When IWC Schaffhausen’s Portugieser irst appeared in the late 1930s, this model seemed unusually large. Its equally unusu- al name alludes to the story of its creation, which began when two Portuguese - ers asked IWC to build a wristwatch with the precision of a . The manufactory, which had been founded in Schaffhausen in 1868 by the American Portugieser Reference 325 Florentine Ariosto Jones, was well known as a manufacturer of highly accurate pocket Pantli, IWC Schaffhausen’s erstwhile mar- watches. IWC’s watchmakers accordingly keting and sales director, deserves credit ensconced hunter pocket watch Caliber 74 for plucking Reference 325 out of oblivion inside the 41.5 mm case of a wristwatch in and making it into what is arguably IWC’s 1939. The dial was inspired by the faces of most iconic product. The manufacture cel- the deck watches that IWC was producing ebrated its 125th anniversary in 1993 with for the British Navy at the time. Among the debut of Il Destriero Scafusia (Ref. 1868), their other uses, these pocket-sized nau- which was advertised at the time as the tical instruments aided with navigation most complicated wristwatch in the world. aboard ship so they had to be readily legible This sparked the idea of reissuing Refer- and extremely precise. With a subdial for ence 325 in a small and strictly limited se- the seconds at 6 o’clock, a simple minute ries. The new name – Portugieser – not scale, Arabic numerals, and slender feuille only recalls the origins of Reference 325, hands, Reference 325 gave rise to a time- but also alludes to themes such as naviga- less design language that would run like tion, precision, and reliability. The Portu- Ariadne’s thread through the subsequent gieser Anniversary Edition (Ref. 5441) con- history of the Portugieser family. However, sists of 1,000 pieces in stainless steel cases, this elegant wristwatch in pocket-watch 500 in rose gold cases, and an additional format was decades ahead of its time: IWC’s 250 timepieces in platinum cases. It quickly books documented only approximately sold out, establishing a global trend toward THE ART OF HOROLOGICAL COMPLICATIONS 690 sales by the end of the 1970s. Hannes large-format wristwatches.

IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN 57 Portugieser PERPETUAL CALENDAR

A milestone in the Portugieser’s history oc- curred in 2003 when a perpetual calendar debuted in this watch family. Developed by Kurt Klaus in the , the sophisticated mechanical mechanism automatically adapts to the differing lengths of the months, even “remembering” to add an extra day to February in leap years. All dis- plays are synchronized and can be easily reset via the crown if the watch has been left unused for a lengthy interval. Kurt petual calendar’s mechanical program- Klaus seized the opportunity associated ming automatically recognizes the differ- with the development of extra-large Caliber ent lengths of the months and adds a leap 5000 to fundamentally revise his calendar day at the end of February every four years; module so it would optimally use the ample each of the indications are set via the crown. space afforded by the generously sized In this version of the calendar, the date, movement. IWC’s own manufacture move- month, and weekday are displayed on three ments will be the base for this complication subdials respectively at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. for the irst time this year: the 42 mm The perpetual moon phase indication is timepiece displays calendrical information integrated into the month display and de- on three subdials. IWC manufacture Ca- viates from the real orbit of the moon by liber 82650 thereby delivers a single im- only one full day every 577.5 years. A dis- pulse each night to power the displays play integrated into the weekday indicator of the calendar module. Equipped with counts the years until the next leap year. zirconium oxide ceramic components, Equipped with a domed sapphire crystal the Pellaton automatic-winding mecha- on either side, the case 13.8 mm in height nism conveys energy to the barrel, which is water-resistant to three bar (30 meters). boasts a 60-hour power reserve. This move- The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar has ment can be admired through a pane of an alligator leather strap made by Santoni sapphire crystal on the case back. The per- and secured by a folding clasp. 18k rose gold, self-winding movement, perpetual calendar, moon-phase display

58 IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN 59 Alfred Helwig borne only on one side, where two closely Teaches the spaced bearings guided the wheel’s shaft. Tourbillon to Fly This enabled him to install the rotating cage and the escapement without an upper It was Abraham-Louis Breguet who applied cock, thus offering an unobstructed view for a patent for the tourbillon in portable of the tourbillon, which seemed to fly. Fur- watches in 1801. This little “whirlwind” is a thermore, the cage was thus relieved of small cage-like construction inside which pressure and could be quite delicately de- the rotates around its own signed. The flying tourbillon used less m a- axis, thus compensating for the ill effect terial, was lighter, and less sluggish, thereby of gravity on the accuracy of the rate. For achieving the best rate results for precision an extraordinary watchmaker like Alfred watches of its . Helwig’s masterpiece Helwig, though, the tourbillon was a con- from 1920 is now believed to be lost. His stant challenge impelling him to improve. teaching career spanned 41 years, during Even his irst teacher noticed how meticu- which time he trained more than 800 stu- lously Helwig, who was born on 5 July 1886, dents. Glashütte Original’s school of watch- carried out his tasks, recommending that he making, which now bears Helwig’s name, attend the German School of Watchmak- conveys the expertise of Glashütte’s master ing in Glashütte where he was accepted as watchmakers to the next generation. student number 729 in 1904. He graduated the very next year with grades. He be- came a journeyman and spend the years from 1908 to 1910 at the Hamburg-based Chronometerwerke now belonging to Wempe. After military service in , Alfred Helwig returned to the Ger- man School of Watchmaking in Glashütte in 1917. He envisioned a flying tourbillon. Making initial sketches, step by step the flying tourbillon matured. Including its gold settings, jewels and screws, the rotat- ing carriage weighed less than half a gram. Its hairspring was a mere 0.025 mm at its THE ART OF HOROLOGICAL COMPLICATIONS thinnest point. Helwig’s tourbillon was Manual engraving of the PanoLunar Tourbillon

Glashütte Original 61 Senator Cosmopolite a 72-hour power reserve and shows two time zones in such an intuitive manner that Glashütte Original’s Senator Cosmopolite its wearer can read the time in each zone in blue is a new interpretation of this at a glance; a time-zone ring offers a selec- globetrotter’s stainless steel version with tion of all 35 currently valid time zones. the experts at the brand’s dial manufactory Each is represented by an oficial IATA in modifying the face of the location code, which stands for an interna- Senator Cosmopolite to optimize its legi- tional airport in the respective time zone. bility. Even in bright daylight, the new A white IATA code indicates the 24 time sword-shaped hour and minute hands zones that differ from in full hours; a pastel blue code rep- resents another eight time zones with half- hour differences as well as the three remaining time zones with three-quarter- hour differences. Two windows at 8 o’clock allow the wearer to select either daylight savings time (DST) or (STD). There are also day/night displays for both home time and the time at the wearer’s location. The complex mechanism takes into account any date adjustments when travelling forward or backward in time (east-west or west-east). The 44 mm stain- contrast boldly against the galvanic blue less steel case is water-resistant to ive bar, dial, which is decorated with a sunburst which corresponds to pressure at a depth pattern. Excellent legibility likewise dis- of 50 meters. Automatic manufacture tinguishes the white printed numerals, Caliber 89-02 ticks at a pace of 28,800 vi- markings, and lettering of the various dis- brations per hour; it has 63 jewels and a plays. Twelve typical applied markers screw balance with four regulating screws. round out the high-contrast appearance. The Senator Cosmopolite can be worn The Senator Cosmopolite is powered by either on a stainless steel bracelet or a manufacture Caliber 89-02, which boasts blue alligator leather strap. Stainless steel, self-winding movement, 35 time zones, /Standard Time

62 Glashütte Original Glashütte Original 63 The tered to the school of watch- Urania Observatory making and the manufactories in Glashütte. However, this method of transmission and Urania built the observatory atop the the resulting inaccuracy of the time signal Ochsen kopf hilltop high above the Müglitz had long since ceased to meet the needs for valley between 1904 and 1910. The muse of precision required by Glashütte’s time- astronomy in Greek mythology, Urania pieces. A telescope of their own in an onsite also lent her name to the student associ- observatory was intended to solve the ation of the German School of Watch- problem. The time inally came in 1910 when making, which was oficially opened in the observatory commenced operations. In Glas hütte on May 1, 1878 on the initiative addition to its own time signal, Glashütte now also had an educational observatory that was used by the school of watchmaking. The establishment of a research insti- tute was also under consideration. Ferdinand Adolph Lange’s grand- son, Otto Lange, and Herbert Wempe, who owned Wempe Chrono meterwerke in Hamburg, Glashütte Observatory was inaugurated in 1910 met in the late 1930s and agreed on plans to this end, but World of Moritz Grossmann on behalf of the Cen- War II thwarted their plans: both compa- tral Association of German Watchmakers. nies were obliged to build chronometers for It contributed to Glashütte’s internation- the German navy. Following the war, the al reputation; at times, one-third of the observatory became municipal property school’s students came from abroad. The and was neglected. Decades of decay left it watchmaking industry in Glashütte, which in ruins until 2005, when Wempe renovated had been founded by Ferdinand Adolph it, transformed it into a production facility Lange in 1845, needed a reliable reference for Wempe chrono meters, and established time. This was calculated with the help of on its premises Germany’s only chronome- celestial observations by the Imperial ter-testing facility. The success is so great Metrological Institute in , which that the observatory building has already THE ART OF HOROLOGICAL COMPLICATIONS cabled it in Morse code as a manually en- twice undergone extensive expansions.

Wempe Chronometerwerke 65 A Smooth Glide against the dial’s bronze-colored back- ground. The case is water-resistant to The Chronometerwerke Pilot’s Watch three bar, which corresponds to water CW4 Bronze combines the long tradition of pressure at a depth of 30 meters. The case Wempe’s production of pilot’s watches and is 41 millimeters in diameter, a size making a trendy case material. Bronze has a warm, it somewhat more moderately dimensioned soft color and thus a very special charm that than historical pilot’s watches. The brown has made this alloy of copper and tin quite vintage-style leather strap is similar to important in the visual arts. The Automatic those used by airmen of yesteryear to strap Pilot’s Watch CW4 is a miniature their timepieces over their flight masterpiece in its own right . The strap has a small in bronze, a material decorative seam on one that responds to the end and a bronze buck- influence of oxygen le with the engraved and moisture by de- Wempe logo on the veloping a patina other end. Auto- of oxidized copper, matic manufacture which and pro- Caliber CW4, which tects the underlying was unveiled in 2016, alloy. Wempe’s experts combines traditional add more aluminum to horological virtues with the alloy to delay – and thus state-of-the-art . pleasurably savor – the visible The high-performance movement aging. This process cannot be prevented, undergoes a meticulous inishing pro- but the patina lends a uniquely personal cess, which also includes inishing with touch to each watch. The smooth bezel decorative patterns and ine ; of the satin-inished case surrounds the ive bearing jewels are set into bronze-colored dial of this model, which pressed chatons. An off-center heavy metal is produced in a limited edition of just rotor rotates above the typical Glashütte 25 timepieces. The applied Arabic numer- three- quarter plate, winding a als and indices share the same warm color, that stores enough energy for 90 hours while the luminous hands contrast boldly of power. Bronze, self-winding movement, chronometer, saphhire crystal case back

66 Wempe Chronometerwerke Wempe Chronometerwerke 67 revolving rollers digitally display the time: Abraham-Louis Breguet and ran a leading one roller makes a revolution every ive horological workshop. While in Paris, minutes, while the other advances every Lange also found time to study astronomy hour on the hour. The clock was ordered and physics at the Sorbonne. The pages because the king had been annoyed that of his travel and sketchbook detail how meticulously he pursued these studies. Rather than measuring his constructions in the customary lignes, he used the more practical – but still rather uncommon – metric system. When Lange returned to Glashütte 1855 Dresden, he married Antonia, the daughter of his master, who had been promoted to 175 Years of to continue working exclusively for Lange court watchmaker. Lange was granted his Watchmaking for a period of ive years after the comple- master’s certiicate and became a partner in Glashütte tion of their training. The timing was well in his father-in-law’s business. Despite the chosen. Saxony’s industrialization, the dificulties besetting the era, his horo- It seems likely that the 15 young men from construction of railway lines, and the in- logical and entrepreneurial successes were Glashütte ranging in age from 15 to 18 were stitution of a uniied time zone for all of considerable. To promote the economy eagerly looking forward to December 7, Saxony created a growing demand for accu- the Saxon government began handing out 1845. Despite their youth, they were to be- rate timepieces. Ferdinand Adolph Lange, subsidies, which spurred Lange’s entre- come decisive for the of the impover- who was born in Dresden on February 18, preneurial spirit and sense of civic duty. ished little town in the foothills of the 1815, proved to be the ideal person to meet He began striving for the implementation Erz Mountains. The youths attended a mid- this need. Following his parents’ separation, of his plan to establish a Saxon watch man- day meal organized by the town at the invi- a merchant family with which his parents Five-minute clock of the ufactory as a German counterbalance to tation of the company where were on friendly terms raised Semper Opera House in Dresden the then-predominant manufacturers of they would soon begin ap- Lange as a foster child and ine watchmaking in England and Switzer- prenticing as watchmakers. enabled him to receive an some spectators in the darkened hall land. But the festive start in Glashütte was With some persistence, the . He attended the triggered their repeating pocket watches misleading: training the 15 village youths company’s founder, Ferdinand Technische Bildungsanstalt in to chime the time during a performance. from the “undernourished valley” turned Adolph Lange, had succeeded Dresden and simultaneously The Semper Opera House has been de- out to be more dificult than expected, and in obtaining a loan of 5,580 began training with renowned stroyed twice in its long history, but its many of them had to be replaced. Lange thalers from the government watchmaker Johann Christian ive-minute clock still shows the correct increased their number to 30. Slow to get of Saxony to establish watch- Friedrich Gutkaes. During time today. Upon completing his appren- underway, watch production was delayed. making in the state. He had this apprenticeship, his men- ticeship with distinction in 1837, Lange The company’s name became “A. Lange & also been granted a non-repay- tor was commissioned to travelled to Paris, the center of precision Cie” as the subsidy proved insuficient and able sum for the procurement create a for the watchmaking in those years. He honed brother-in-law Gustav Bernhard Gutkaes of tools and equipment. The Semper Opera House. High his skills under the tutelage of Joseph had to come aboard as a guarantor. The 15 apprentices had committed C. F. Gutkaes above the stage, two silently Thaddäus Winnerl, who had been a pupil of pocket-watch movements were accordingly

68 175 Years Glashütte 175 Years Glashütte 69 stamped with the “G&L” hallmark: G for own businesses in 1848 – supported by numbered among Lange’s friends, left companies relied on the same suppliers Gutkaes and L for Lange. Ferdinand Lange, who wanted to establish a system Dresden and settled in Glashütte toward of individual components; they coordinat- Adolph Lange analyzed the watch land- based on eficient division of labor. The the end of 1854. He helped Lange and his ed to promote technical developments scape, identiied his competitors in Eng- suppliers concentrated on manufacturing foreman Adolf Schneider train aspiring leading to improvements in movements land, France, and Germany, components such as hands, , watchmakers by making models of move- and tools. The movements manufactured and deined his goal: the production of a and balances. Others focused their efforts ments for educational purposes. In addi- by Lange, Assmann, Schneider, and simple “but mechanically perfect pocket on milling, the production of pinions or tion to running his own watch manufactory, Grossmann were therefore nearly identi- watch.” Precision was his top priority, so plates, and the manufacture of gears or which also produced precision cal, establishing the success of the Lange’s production relied on the metric spring barrels. Success was frustratingly and chronome- division-of-labor system. The system from the outset even if the Saxon elusive at irst. Still hoping to lead his ters, Grossmann gave lectures, Glashütte precision pocket watch government did not oficially adopt the company and the city of Glashütte to translated technical articles into was manufactured for 80 years. meter as a unit of measurement until 1858. success, Lange applied for personal loans German, and published articles Shortly before the thirtieth an- Using the millimeter as his basic unit of and went into deep debt. He exhibited his in technical journals. His lecture niversary of the founding of his measurement simpliied calculations, but watches for the irst time at the Leipzig at the irst German Watchmak- company, Ferdinand Adolph irst the movement’s dimensions had to be Trade Fair in 1850 and participated in ers Day in 1876 led one Lange died at the age of 60 laboriously converted from the old lignes the Great Exhibition in in 1851. year later to the decision on December 3, 1875. system (one ligne is equal to 2.256 milli- He was able to gain a market share in to establish the Ger- His sons Richard meters). But Lange went even further: England and North America, where cus- man Watchmaking and Emil were al- to that point, it had been customary to tomers were eager to buy and able to pay School in Glashütte, ready longstanding merely manufacture and sell watches, leav- for good, reliable, high-quality watches; which opened its partners in the com- ing their ine adjustment to local watch- the domestic market generated only about doors on May 1, 1878. pany, which was ac- makers, who performed this task to the best ten percent of his sales. Another advantage This school, which cordingly named of their abilities. Lange countered this risk of Lange’s division-of-labor system was that achieved global fame A. Lange & Söhne. by only selling watches that had already he could evaluate his suppliers’ wares and in subsequent decades, Richard Lange distin- been inely adjusted. During their ive select only the best components among counts many renowned guished himself as a su- “compulsory years” with Lange, the jour- them. His suppliers were nevertheless able watchmakers among its perlative watch designer neymen specialized in the skills they had to operate proitably because other watch alumni. One-third of its students while Emil Lange developed out- learned during their apprenticeships. Each companies began settling in the region, came from abroad and their reports helped standing commercial skills. One year later, young watchmaker was responsible for a thus utilizing and strengthening the in- Glashütte earn an enviable reputation in Heinrich Schäfer in Vienna commissioned speciic step, thus signiicantly reducing frastructure of the emerging watch indus- their home countries. The aforementioned A. Lange & Söhne to manufacture a grande the error rate. Ferdinand Adolph Lange try. One of these competitors was Julius Schneider likewise ventured onto the path complication.This watch has a striking also optimized the tools and equipment, for Assmann, a native of Stettin, who settled in toward independent entrepreneurship, mechanism with small and large chimes example, by introducing foot-powered Glashütte as an independent watch manu- opening his own watch factory in 1855 and (petite et grande sonnerie), a minute repeat- . Their operators could set round facturer on October 2, 1852, which was completing the cloverleaf of the four found- er, and a split-seconds chronograph with parts such as pins, pinions, wheels, and also his 55th birthday. Ferdinand Adolph ing families. Over the next 20 years, “lightning” seconds (seconde foudroyante) disks into continuous rotary motion, thus Lange, who had meanwhile also been elect- Glashütte’s pocket watches earned inter- and a 60-minute counter. It is also features facilitating ine and precise . ed mayor, supported Assmann’s efforts. national renown as precise time-measur- a perpetual calendar with moon phase The irst specialist suppliers started their Watchmaker Moritz Grossmann, who ing instruments. All four watchmaking display. All this mechanical complexity is

70 175 Years Glashütte 175 Years Glashütte 71 ensconced in a chased and hand-engraved Glashütte.” A complaint iled by Assmann, watchmaking industry into overlooking commenced in the autumn of 1929, gold hunter case with classic Graff engrav- Lange, and Union developed into a legal the triumphant trajectory of the wrist- followed by Caliber 55 for men’s wrist- ing. Remaining a one-of-a-kind timepiece, dispute, which ended with a settlement on watch and dismissing it as a mere passing watches in 1931. Thanks to its clever archi- its German silver movement is crafted in May 10, 1910 and the subsequent withdrawal fad. This miscalculation, further exacer- tecture, Caliber 58, which debuted in 1935, 1A quality and powered by three spring of Nomos from Glashütte. The city of bated by rampant inflation and the global was able to accommodate both a large barrels. This unique creation dates from Glashütte received permission from the economic crisis, led to the opening of spring barrel and a generously propor- the heyday of pocket-watch production in king of Saxony to use a new coat of arms in bankruptcy proceedings on June 17, 1925. tioned balance. This caliber earned its Glashütte, which lasted from 1890 to 1914. 1912. The shield is horizontally divided into The Assmann and Union/Dürrstein com- place in watchmaking history as an unusu- A. Lange & Söhne’s annual production in- a golden upper half and a red lower portion: panies were deleted from the commercial ally space-saving movement. The National creased from 1,237 watches in 1872 to 2,417 the former bears a pair of diagonally register in 1930 and 1936. Only A. Lange & Socialists’ seizure of power led to a substan- individual timepieces in 1907; Glashütte’s crossed hammers, while the latter Söhne survived the worldwide inancial tial upturn in the watchmaking and ine watchmaking industry employed 258 peo- shows a silver watch dial with a red sun. downturn. Glashütte’s watchmakers none- mechanics industries. Demand for marine ple in that year. Glashütte’s fame attracted World War I put an abrupt end to the hey- theless remained undaunt- chronometers and ob- other watch companies such as Nomos- day of watchmaking in Glashütte as many ed. The Giro- Zentrale servation watches rose Uhren-Gesellschaft, which was founded in employees were needed to work in the Sachsen bank, which sharply. Collaboration armaments industry or serve in the army. had granted large between A. Lange & The watch companies devoted their efforts loans to the defunct Söhne in Glashütte to manufacturing marine chronometers DPUG, founded the and Wempe Chronometer- and observation watches. With support Uhren-Rohwerke- Fabrik werke in Hamburg led from the city of Glashütte, the Deutsche Glashütte AG (Urofa) and to the creation of the Präzisions-Uhrenfabrik (DPUG) was found- the Uhrenfabrik Glas- Uniied Chronometer, ed in 1918 to resume production of inex- hütte AG (Ufag) on De- 6,500 pieces of which pensive watches for everyday use. Using cember 7, 1926 as it was were produced by the standardized manufacturing methods, the eager to make up for its end of the war. Approxi- focus was on a caliber with visible anchor losses. The new ébauche mately 12,000 observation pallets in the Swiss style. New measuring factory planned to manufac- watches and pilot’s wrist- instruments made by R. Mühle & Sohn ture, inish, and galvanize move- watches were also manufactured. contributed to initial success in the form of ment plates with bridges and cocks. Each During this same period, Urofa made a pocket watch making its debut in 1921 factory was legally independent, but approximately 25,000 wristwatch chrono- whose production cost 20 percent less than Dr. Ernst Kurtz, a lawyer, managed both. graphs powered by Caliber 59, which comparable timepieces made by local com- The watch factory – also an assembly fa- boasted additive timing and the ability to petitors. The company produced 350 cility – was set to speedily and smoothly tally up to 30 minutes. Russian ighter Grande Complication pocket watch precision pocket watches each month – assemble the movements. But due to inade- pilots began dropping bombs on the city more watches than had previously been quate experience with mass production, it of Glashütte at 6 o’clock on the morning 1906. That company purchased complete manufactured in an entire year by all of was not until 1928 that the irst pocket of May 8, 1945. Lange’s production facility watches from Switzerland, gave them a Glas hütte’s businesses together. This watch watches came to market at a competitive was among the casualties. Dr. Ernst Kurtz, inal inspection in Glashütte, and sold them sold very strongly at the Leipzig Spring price. Serial production of Caliber 52, the director of Urofa and Ufag, had left the city under the name “New System – Nomos Fair, but the success misled Glashütte’s irst movement for ladies’ wristwatches, the night before, preparing well in advance

72 175 Years Glashütte 175 Years Glashütte 73 and arranging for machines and their businesses trans- starting in 1964. Mergers with other watch- and manufacturing equip- ferred to state ownership making companies in Ruhla and Weimar ment to be transported to between 1946 and 1948. resulted in the highly eficient and large- Memmelsdorf in Central Lange was nonetheless scale production of millions of timepieces. Franconia, where they were able to begin delivering a Germany’s reuniication abruptly ended stored. After the war, this men’s wristwatch in 1949 this “success story” when the state-owned stockpile enabled him to set by producing Calibers 28 GUB was taken over by the Treuhand idu- up a new wristwatch pro- and 28.1 (with central ciary authority; the company restarted oper- duction facility in Glashütte second hand). The VEB ations under the name “Glashütte Original” tradition under the name Glas hütter Uhrenbetriebe with a core workforce of 72 employees con- Tutima, which relocated its (GUB) combine was found- centrating their efforts on the production production to Ganderkesee, Aviator chronograph, 1941 ed on July 1,1951. Among of high-quality mechanical watches, thus near Bremen, in 1951. Tutima other irms, GUB incorpo- following the example set by A. Lange & became well known in the 1980s when it rated A. Lange & Söhne, Urofa and Ufag, Söhne. Walter Lange, great-grandson of was commissioned to manufacture service Robert Mühle & Co, and the Makarenko Ferdinand Adolph Lange, partnered with watches for pilots in West Germany’s air vocational school into a single unit with Günter Blümlein to revive the Lange brand, force. A grimmer fate was in store for the more than 1,000 employees. GUB pro- which joined the Geneva-based Glashütte 2015 remaining watch companies in Glashütte. duced its millionth watch as early as 1959, Group in 2000. Roland Schwertner found- After the bombardment, watch production and exports to socialist countries had ed Nomos in 1990, thus resurrecting the called into existence after the resumed on May 16, 1945, but an order to already begun in 1950. Starting in 1957, name of a watch manufacturer that had Group took over Glashütte Original in dismantle Urofa and Ufag was issued on GUB also supplied watches to West Germa- been based in Glashütte in 1906. The 2000. And with Mühle Nautische Instru- July 1. Nothing survived to dismantle at ny’s Quelle mail-order company, which Nomos manufactory now operates with a mente, which was already well known in A. Lange & Söhne, which had suffered a di- marketed them under the name high degree of vertical integration, includ- the ield of horological metrology, yet an- rect hit during the bombing. The owners of “Meister-Anker.” Automatic watches were ing the ability to produce its own escape- other family from Glashütte contributed to the watch companies were expropriated manufactured under the name Spezimatic ments. Union Glashütte was once again the market for Glashütte-made wristwatch- es. With the elaborate restoration of the city’s observatory and the establishment of a chronometer-testing facility, Wempe re- called a cooperation with A. Lange & Söhne that was irst planned in the 1930s and com- menced manufacturing its own watches on site. Tutima returned to its original home- town in 2008. Following 175 years of color- ful history, alternately marked by success and beset by catastrophe, Glashütte has earned a prominent and globally recog- nized position on the international watch- making map.

74 175 Years Glashütte 175 Years Glashütte 75 Polarizing, but with Style

There are only a handful of timeless stylis- tic icons among the thousands of watch designs in the world. Panerai stands out among these elite few. Some connoisseurs are not fond of this brand’s straightforward and amply dimensioned styling. Others ind it to be the epitome of distinctive beauty. But all parties agree on one point: the style of Panerai’s dials and cases distin- guishes these wristwatches from all others. Probably no other watch brand is as skillful in its mastery of bold masculine styling coupled with minimalistic design. There is Panerai store, 1860 a simple reason for this: Guido Panerai upheld a strict principle of functionality and added the brand’s watches to its port- when he irst designed these watches for folio in 1998. Panerai’s international market the royal Italian navy in the late 1930s. This launch followed at the turn of the millen- is also why the Radiomir and later the nium – and an incredible success story Luminor models are distinguished by ex- began. Panerai now utilizes nothing but cellent readability, especially in the dark its own movements from its manufactory or under water. But their breakthrough as in Neuchâtel, Switzerland. Long regarded commercial watches would not occur until as typically men’s watches, Panerai’s stylish many decades later and in a very unusual icons are now also comfortably wearable way. Sylvester Stallone discovered the on women’s slimmer wrists as the brand brand by chance when he was in Rome to added several models from the Luminor shoot the ilm Daylight, in which one of Due series to its collection as of 2016. Panerai’s watches co-stars on Stallone’s Despite their smaller diameter of 38 mm, burly wrist. The actor subsequently made they feature all of Panerai’s typical design the timepiece into an “it watch” in Holly- elements and are also powered by Oficine wood of the late 1990s. Wempe was like- Panerai’s thinnest automatic manufacture THE ART OF HOROLOGICAL COMPLICATIONS wise infected with enthusiasm for Panerai caliber.

Panerai 77 Luminor Marina result is a matte grey appearance that Fibratech 44 MM can be individually modiied depending on how the material is cut. In the new The conspicuous design language of PAM01663 model, this innovative case Panerai’s watches is sacred to the brand’s material is combined with a bezel and fans, so-called Paneristi who hotly debate crown-protector lever made of Carbotech, every even so slight variation and new a composite material developed in-house. combinations of familiar elements. With The screw-down case is crafted from this in mind, it is only natural for Panerai to micro-sandblasted titanium. The Luminor seek new challenges and to push the Marina Fibratech is water-resist- envelope in exploring new materi- ant to 30 bar, which is equivalent als. After having been one of to the pressure at a depth of the irst to use bronze cases as 300 meters. Caliber P9010 a reference to its maritime was designed and developed origins, this Florentine entirely in Panerai’s ma- brand is now pursuing a nufactory in Neuchâtel. A totally unprecedented mere six millimeters thick, approach. The cases of the automatic movement is Panerai’s new Fibratech still able to store enough watches are made from the energy in its twin spring minerally ibers of basalt. barrels to display the correct Fibratech is an extremely unusu- time for three consecutive al material that has never before days, even if it languishes been used in the watch industry. unworn. The 44 mm Luminor After initial tests in the aerospace Marina Fibratech has a sandwich- industry, Panerai further developed and style dial in a blue color that get gradually optimized the substance for use as a case paler toward the center. The four Arabic material. Fibratech is made by melting numerals fluoresce green, while the in- basalt rock to obtain unidirectional min- dexes are coated with white luminous ma- eral ibers. These ibers are then bonded terial. The strap is made of blue Sportech with polymers to form thin layers, which textile with white stitching secured by a are superimposed in precise alignment and trapezoidal buckle made of DLC-coated inally solidiied under strictly controlled titanium. A blue rubber strap is also deliv- Fibratech, self-winding movement, temperature and pressure conditions. The ered along with the watch. small seconds subdial

78 Panerai Panerai 79 Chronomat – movement. This model, whose case dimen- A Model Defines the sions and winding system departed from Milestones of the contemporary tastes, caused quite a stir in Company’s History the watchmaking world; it is now regarded as one of the points of crystallization for the The irst Breitling timepiece to bear the gradual renaissance of the mechanical name Chronomat – which combined syl- wristwatch. Inspired by the Frecce Tricolori lables borrowed from the words “chrono- watch, Breitling celebrated its centenary graph” and “mathematics” – was a paten - the following year with the Chronomat. ted instrument watch with a This marked the return of chronograph and a circular the mechanical chronograph slide rule. Venus Caliber 175 upon which the brand had provided the power for this originally built its reputation. ancestor of the Navitimer. The screw-mounted riders Chronomat models subse- protecting the watch crystal quently played a special role became one of this watch’s in the history of this watch special features; the riders brand founded in St. Imier in at 15 and 45 minutes could 1884. The one-two punch of be interchanged to facilitate a the turbulent crisis kind of countdown function and his own poor health using the chronograph. impelled Willy Breitling, Breitling again chose a Chro- grandson of the company’s Breitling nomat model to host its irst founder, to sell the irm to en- Chronomat, 1984 manufacture movement, the trepreneur Ernest Schneider B01, which debuted to cele- in 1979. The new owner and his family brate the brand’s 125th anniversary in 2009. looked after the company’s affairs until After CVC acquired the brand in 2017, 2017. The headquarters were relocated to Breitling’s CEO Georges Kern commenced Grenchen on December 30, 1982. Italian a thorough reorientation of the model range aerobatic team Frecce Tricolori (“three- and brand identity – and thus the Chrono- colored arrows”) commissioned Breitling to mat returns this year with reversible riders make a chronograph with an automatic and the Rouleaux bracelet from the 1980s. THE ART OF HOROLOGICAL COMPLICATIONS

Breitling 81 A Legendary Model in steel Rouleaux bracelet with double folding the Company’s History clasp is integrated into the 42 mm stainless steel case. Breitling’s Chronomat is water- Breitling concludes the comprehensive resistant to 20 bar, which corresponds to redesign of its collection with the Chrono- the water pressure at a depth of 200 meters. mat family. Alongside re-editions of classic Manufacture Caliber B01 keeps time inside models such as the 1959 Navitimer 806 the case: a COSC-tested chronometer, this and the in the Premier line, automatic chronograph movement is paced all of the collections have been thoroughly at 28,800 vibrations per hour and can ac- revised and the brand’s overall image has cordingly measure elapsed intervals to the been visibly rejuvenated. The Chronomat nearest quarter of a second. After full has always played a special role at each out- winding, its ball-borne and bidirectionally standing in the company’s history. winding rotor provides enough power re- Its four riders ensure its characteristic ap- serve to continue displaying the correct pearance and simultaneously protect the time for 70 hours without further motion of cambered sapphire crystal with antire- the wearer’s wrist. The chronograph move- flective coating on both sides. The riders of ment comprises 346 components, includ- the new editions of the Chronomat are ing a column wheel and a vertical clutch. somewhat flatter and less likely to snag on a Breitling is producing a special version cuff, but they too are screwed to the exclusively for Wempe Jewelers with a blue bezel from the outside at 3 and 9 o’clock and dial and silver-colored totalizers in a limit- are interchangeable so the chronograph ed edition of 50 pieces. can either tally up or count down. The riders also facilitate the handling of the unidirec- tionally rotatable bezel. The watch’s stainless

Stainless steel, self-winding movement, chronograph, chronometer

82 Breitling Breitling 83 Pleasure and Responsibility

Hublot is no stranger to a well-groomed appearance in the limelight, but this com- pany also likes to tread new paths beyond the posh red carpet. As such, Hublot was one of the irst watch brands to consistently dedicate itself to soccer. Its partnerships with UEFA and FIFA become obvious to spectators when assistant referees raise the boards displaying the added time in front of the video cameras at major interna- Care for Wild dial tional football events – including women’s soccer. Among the brand’s partners are (Save Our Rhino Africa India) go directly leading personalities in the world of to Care for Wild for the care and protection football such as Kylia Mbappé and Edson of orphaned baby rhinoceros and to the Arantes do Nascimento, who is better South African National Parks Agency. known as Pelé. The popular team sport on Since 2015, Hublot has supported Best the pitch is complemented by an equally Buddies, a non-proit organization that of- popular team sport on the racetrack: since fers people with intellectual disabilities and 2011, Hublot has been the oficial time- developmental impairments opportunities keeper of Scuderia Ferrari, the Formula 1 for friendships, integrated employment, department of the Italian sports car manu- and managerial training. In its support of facturer. Hublot annually designs new the Only Watch project, Hublot returns to watch models in cooperation with Ferrari, a place of glamor. Every two years, major including a Classic Fusion collection for luxury watch brands create unique time- the Ferrari GT. Hublot also cultivates pieces for the Monegasque charity in sup- close contacts with individually played port of Duchenne muscular dystrophy. sports, like track and ield and golf, as well Hublot has supported the foundation since as world-class artists and musicians. Along- its establishment in 2005. The proceeds side pleasure, Hublot is also aware of its of the auction, which is held at Christie’s in social responsibility. A large percentage of Geneva, are devoted entirely to this good THE ART OF HOROLOGICAL COMPLICATIONS the proceeds from sales of the Unico Sorai cause’s research.

Hublot 85 Big Bang harmonize here: the seemingly sharp-edged Integral Titanium – bracelet echoes the austere shape of the Connection case and the angular edges parallel the shapes of the chronograph’s push pieces, Hublot’s Big Bang premiered in 2005 with which have been revised to incorporate a spectacular combination of steel, ceram- distinctive features of the original 2005 ics, and rubber. Celebrating its ifteenth model. These pushers inspired the styling birthday, the Big Bang is now available for of the bracelet with its interplay of edges, the irst time in combination with an in- bevels, and alternating polished and sat- tegrated bracelet. The custom-made design in-inished surfaces, which recur through- out the watch, its case, and bracelet. The Big Bang Integral Titanium’s case retains its “sandwich” construction, but without the use of composite resin. The 42 millimeter case and the bracelet with folding clasp are manufactured entirely in lightweight tita- nium. The sole exceptions to this are the crown protection in black composite resin and the rubber-covered crown. The dial and bezel are designed in the same way as their counterparts on previous Big Bang models, but there is an exception here too: indices have replaced the erstwhile Arabic numerals. The column wheel of in-house manufacture Caliber Unico V2 is visible at of the bracelet is recognizable only at sec- 6 o’clock. Its chronograph mechanism fea- ond glance, though: at irst only the broad tures a horizontal double clutch; its thin elements in the midline of the bracelet’s automatic winding supplies it with enough three rows stick out, but closer scrutiny energy for three days of power reserve when shows that the details combine to tell an fully wound. Caliber Unico V2 consists of independent design story. All elements 354 components, including 43 jewels.

Titanium, self-winding movement, chronograph

86 Hublot Hublot 87 Family Tradition events from the ground with her impres- Begets Manufacture sive and particularly sensitive artistic im- and Responsibility ages, two supporters take a critical look at the Alpine region from the air. The irst is Founded by Louis-Ulysse Chopard in 1860, white-tailed eagle Victor, an internationally the house of Chopard manufactures renowned aerial photographer who has high-quality watches and jewelry. The ilmed the Arctic Ocean, Mont Blanc, and Scheufele family has run Chopard with its the skylines of Paris, London, and Dubai exceptional sense of family spirit since 1963. with a 360° camera strapped to his back. Perfection in every detail, creativity cou- Victor’s images promote the appreciation pled with traditional craftsmanship, and and awareness of an environment that is clear ethical values are the pillars of its changing much too quickly. Detailed satel- success. Co-president Karl-Friedrich lite images of Alpine regions are generated Scheufele, who is responsible for the com- at even higher altitudes by the second: the pany’s watch division, returned to the roots German Aerospace Centre (DLR) and the of the art of watchmaking with the found- European Space Agency (ESA) are also ing of Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier in partners in the Alpine Eagle project, con- 1996. Twenty basic movements in as many tributing a global and scientiic perspective. years speak for the success of this strategy. The combined efforts of all participants Chopard’s launch of the Alpine Eagle last offer a glimpse into our future. year, drawing attention to the Alps, led to Karl-Friedrich Scheufele co-founding and supporting the Eagle Wings project, which monitors the changes taking place in the Alpine ecosystem with eagle eyes. Europe’s tallest and most extensive mountain range extends nearly 1,200 kilometers across Austria, France, Germany, Italy, Liechten- stein, Monaco, Slovenia, and Switzerland. The Alps are geographically important, accounting for 11% of Europe’s surface area and exerting major influence on the cli- mate. While German photographer Nomi THE ART OF HOROLOGICAL COMPLICATIONS Baumgartl keeps a sharp eye on Alpine Sea eagle with a 360° camera

Chopard 89 Alpine Eagle – The robust case protects Chopard’s auto- The Chronograph matic Caliber 03.05-C from penetration Spreads Its Wings by water to a pressure of ten bar, which cor- responds to the water pressure at a depth of The Alpine Eagle XL Chrono, a flyback 100 meters. Like all calibers in this collec- chronograph in a new 44 millimeter case, tion, this movement was developed and complements the Alpine Eagle collection manufactured entirely by Chopard and is launched in 2019. The new watch’s ap- certiied by the COSC, the oficial Swiss pearance is striking and unmistakable, chronometer-testing authority. The com- combining a round case with stylized plex chronograph caliber comprising 310 protruding elements, a crown components is equipped with with an engraved a column wheel and flyback rose, a bezel with eight mechanism; its mainspring functional screws, lumi- boasts a 60-hour power nous indices on a struc- reserve to keep the tured dial in natural movement running hues, and an inte- even when its skele- grated metal brace- tonized - alloy let with ingot-shaped rotor is not cur rently links. From the chro- supplying it with a nometer-certiied move- fresh transfusion of ment to the dial, bracelet, energy. Caliber 03.05-C and A223 Lucent steel is embellished with mod- case, these chronographs are ern inishing that expresses manufactured entirely on premises by this collection’s sporty style. It can be the experts in Chopard’s workshops. The admired by peering through the back of Lucent steel alloy, specially developed by the case blessed with a sapphire crystal Chopard, is the result of a complex indus- that is no less antireflective than its coun- trialized process that endows the material terpart covering the dial. This front crystal with three exclusive properties: it is hypo- protects the Aletsch-blue embossed allergenic, extremely resistant, and has dial, which is adorned with a radial motif a shine comparable to the gleam of gold. inspired by the iris of an eagle’s eye. Stainless steel, self-winding movement, chronograph, chronometer

90 Chopard Chopard 91 Lauding the Graduate

Constant Girard, born in 1825, founded Girard & Cie in 1852. Two years later, he married Marie Perregaux, who came from an important family of watch retailers in Le Locle. The combination of their family names gave birth to the Girard-Perregaux manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Con- stant Girard-Perregaux excelled in his horological creations, above all in his es- capement developments – and especially tourbillons. His famous Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges, which was awarded the gold medal at the Paris World Exhi- Manufacture building bition in 1889, remains the unmistakable motif of the manufacture to this day. Bridges in wristwatch format. In 2013, Constant Girard-Perregaux was succeeded Girard-Perregaux premiered the irst by his son Constant Girard-Gallet, who watches utilizing this manufacture’s own merged Girard-Perregaux with the re- revolutionary constant-force escapement; nowned Bautte company, thus fusing two the trailblazing development earned famous names in the elite world of Swiss Girard-Perregaux the Aiguille d’Or of watchmaking. In 1966, Girard-Perregaux the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, presented the Gyromatic HF, the irst which is widely recognized as the most high-frequency movement beating at prestigious award in the world of watch- 36,000 vibrations per hour, for which the making. Girard-Perregaux marked its brand was awarded the Centennial Prize 225th anniversary in 2016 with the return of the Neuchâtel observatory for research of the Laureato in a limited edition, which and development by the Canton of Neu- was presented as a complete family of mod- châtel. After ten years of development, els two years later. The Laureato, which the master watchmakers celebrated means “the graduate” in Italian, has devel- Girard- Perregaux’s 200th anniversary oped into the most important model in with the debut of a technical masterpiece: Girard-Perregaux’s current collection, truly THE ART OF HOROLOGICAL COMPLICATIONS the famous Tourbillon with Three Gold passing all its tests with flying colors.

Girard-Perregaux 93 Laureato Infinity – summa cum laude diploma with a hand- Testimony of made dial crafted in black . This a Partnership glossy black face accentuates the watch’s luxurious impression by providing an The Italian translation of this word is very elegant background for the rose gold accurate. While the original title of the markers, applied Girard-Perregaux logo, 1967 classic ilm The Graduate with Dustin and second hand. The silver-colored ba ton- Hoffman refers to graduation either from shaped hour and minute hands engage high school or college, the Italian name in playful dialogue with the stainless steel (“Laureato”) more closely aligns with the case. The date is indicated by white nu- university degree recently merals on a black date earned by the main charac- disk, whose coloring ter of the motion picture. matches the swarthy dial. Be that as it may: with the The Girard-Perregaux then freshly created Laure- Laureato Ininity 42 Mil- ato, Girard-Perregaux de- limeters is available in clared itself qualiied to a limited edition of 188 begin its its life. The stain- watches. Water-resistant less steel watch with inte- to ten bar, the stainless grated bracelet was likewise steel case is only 10.7 mm at the cutting edge of tech- high and has a diameter nology. Girard-Perregaux’s of 42 mm. Manufacture researchers opted for a fre- Caliber GP01800-1404, quency of 32 kilohertz – paced at 28,800 vibra- precisely 32,768 Hertz – Laureato advertisement, 1975 tions per hour, comprises which remains the standard 191 components. Wempe frequency for quartz watches today. Now- offers both this and a second limited edition adays, of course, the classic Laureato with for a two-month period exclusively at select its exciting mix of straight lines and round- branches in Germany, New York, and Lon- ed curves is powered by a mechanical don: available in a limited edition of 88 piec- movement from the manufacture founded es, this mechanical 38 mm variation is also in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1791. The current available with a bezel set with 56 Laureato Ininity is the equivalent of a weighing a total of approx. 0.90 carats. Stainless steel, self-winding movement, onyx dial

94 Girard-Perregaux Girard-Perregaux 95 Extravagance as a Mastered Challenge

To want to position oneself as an extraordi- nary brand is one thing but being able to do so is quite another. The spectacular models and collaborations with which Roger Dubuis regularly surprises fans of the brand would not be possible without the relevant expertise of the Geneva-based Lamborghini Essenza manufacture. This company is as young as its dynamic image suggests. Exactly a the devilishly dissonant interval known as quarter of a century ago, the manufacture’s diabolus in musica irst found its way founder, Roger Dubuis, ended his four- into watchmaking with the debut of the teen-year career in Patek Philippe’s studio Excalibur Diabolus in Machina. Roger for grand complications and founded his Dubuis personally created the basis for this: own business. Thanks to an investor and Caliber RD 107 is based on Dubuis’ RD 08 watch designer, Dubuis succeeded in with its two unidirectionally winding quickly establishing a manufacture with an micro rotors. A similar symmetry charac- astonishingly extensive depth of produc- terizes the Excalibur Double Tourbillon. tion. As early as 2003, he had premiered his As the Excalibur Twofold, however, it proves own escapement with in-house hairspring, that this manufacture has successfully thus accomplishing a feat of manufacturing transferred new technologies and materials and horological constructive expertise to the world of watchmaking. By manufac- mastered by only a dozen brands to date. turing certain components from an ultra- Without exception, all Roger Dubuis white composite substance, Roger Dubuis wristwatches are equipped with the brand’s enables the contours of the main plate and own calibers. Nearly all of these watches the proiles of the rubber strap to glow in earn and proudly bear the . the dark in greenish tones. Any company This gives the brand ample opportunity looking to go to the limits and beyond in to resolutely pursue its own paths, which haute horlogerie must know the tradition, sometimes lead to skillfully crafted, yet explore and implement new technologies, THE ART OF HOROLOGICAL COMPLICATIONS provocative timepieces. For example, and consummately master the .

Roger Dubuis 97 Excalibur Huracán – Powered by automatic manufacture Cali- Black Swords ber RD 630, it offers the same high per - formance, low weight, and excellent relia- Geneva-based watch manufacturer Roger bility as its namesake. Its 45 millimeter Dubuis nourishes its extraordinary status titanium case is coated with black DLC from two sources. One is an extremely (-like carbon) as are the bezel high vertical range of manufacture, which and titanium crown. The watch, water- endows this manufactory with the inde- resistant to ive bar, which corresponds pendence enabling it to constantly ven- to the water pressure at a depth of 50 me- ture into new technical and horological ters, offers a skeletonized dial, a recessed territory. The other source is partner- bezel with black lettering, and a similarly ships outside the watch industry, such as recessed minute scale. The balance wheel with Pirelli and Lamborghini Squadra paced at 28,800 vibrations per hour of Corse, which is Lamborghini’s racing di- Caliber RD 630, a movement comprising vision. In cooperation with that maker of 233 components, is inclined 12° to minimize superlative sports cars, equally superb the negative effect of gravity on the iso- sporty watches have been created that chronism of the hairspring. The base plate spark the imagination of watch aiciona- and bridges are sandblasted and black- dos and car lovers alike. The latest expres- ened with micro particles. The 60-hour sion of this high-octane power is the power reserve is supplied by a 360° rotor all-black version of the Excalibur Huracán. styled to resemble the tires of a supercar.

Titanium, DLC coating, self-winding movement, skeletonized

98 Roger Dubuis Roger Dubuis 99 Passion Rescues great success and earned appreciative rec- Watch History ognition as a watchmaker. The highly pre- from Oblivion cise timepieces that served as chronometers aboard sailing ships had yet to prove them- Ferdinand Berthoud was born into a selves suitable for reliably determining a prestigious watchmaking family in the vessel’s on the high seas. Thanks Val-de-Travers in the canton of Neuchâtel to the accuracy of Berthoud’s marine chro- in 1727. Today, the valley is also nometer No. 8, the navigators the production site of two aboard an 18-month expedition watch manufactures owned successfully determined their by Chopard, whose co-presi- ship’s position to within half a de- dent Karl-Friedrich Scheufele gree of longitude in 1768. This is also president of Chrono- success led to Berthoud’s ap- métrie Ferdinand Berthoud. pointment as watchmaker and But we are getting ahead of mechanic to the royal court and ourselves. At the youthful royal navy in 1770. He subse- age of 18 Ferdinand Berthoud quently built no fewer than 20 was drawn to Paris, where he marine chronometers, which opened his own workshop in rendered valuable service in the 1753 after the Royal Council of mapping of the oceans. He pub- King Louis XV recognized his lished his main work on time- outstanding talent and issued a keeping, Histoire de la mesure du special decree appointing him temps par les horloges, in 1802, watchmaker to the royal court. while Napoleon made him a He also worked as a scientist. In 1755, he Knight of the Legion of Honor in 1804. wrote several scholarly articles on the art Though Ferdinand Berthoud’s nephew and of watchmaking for the encyclopedia sons successfully continued his legacy after published by Diderot and d’Alembert. his death in 1807, the family name fell into These were followed in 1763 by a two- of dormancy with the death of volume treatise with the modest title Charles-Auguste Berthoud in 1876. But the Essai sur l’horlogerie. The Royal Society in sleeper awoke in 2015 when Karl-Friedrich London was so impressed by this publica- Scheufele revived the brand threatened by tion that they made him an “associate for- oblivion in Ferdinand Berthoud’s native THE ART OF HOROLOGICAL COMPLICATIONS eign member.” Berthoud also achieved valley. And thus our tale comes full circle.

Ferdinand Berthoud 101 FB 1 – A Tourbillon in the eighteenth century. Its unusually in the Tradition of slowly paced three-Hertz tourbillon is Famous Marine connected to a central second hand. The Chronometers barrel and the fusée are connected by a chain that ensures that constant torque This wristwatch by Chronométrie is transferred to the barrel. The barrel and Ferdinand Berthoud pays homage to the fusée are attached to the plate on one side, horological genius of its namesake. And thus minimizing the height of the con- with it Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, president struction. Other exquisite details include of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, also a winding system with differential gear continues the proud tradition of the house train and a very special power-reserve in- of Chopard with this exception- dicator that relies on a truncated cone mov- al chronometer. The Ferdinand ing downward as the mainspring Berthoud FB 1 chronometer is runs down. After nearly three furnished with a manual years of research and devel- winding mechanism com- opment culminating in the prising more than 1,120 most demanding reliability components. It is en- tests, Caliber FB-T.FC im- closed inside an octago- presses connoisseurs with nal case with watertight its uniquely accurate rate, sapphire crystal windows. constant-torque power sup- Exclusively designed and ply, oficial Swiss chrono- produced by Chronométrie meter certiicate issued by Ferdinand Berthoud in Fleurier, the COSC, perfectly legible dis- Caliber FB-T.FC is equipped with plays for hours, minutes and seconds, and several unique patent-pending compo- 53 hours of power reserve when fully wound. nents: a tourbillon with a central second The uncommonly ine and slender spokes hand, a movement superstructure support- of the gears are patterned after their coun- ed by pillars, a constant-force mechanism terparts in regulator timepieces made by via chain and fusée, and a mobile cone for Ferdinand Berthoud. The gears, which are the power-reserve display. The pillar con- meticulously and patiently embellished struction of Caliber FB-T.FC continues with circular graining, are also beveled at the tradition of the marine chronometers the center to perfectly reflect light and di- 18k white gold, hand-wound movement, fusée-and-chain originally designed by Ferdinand Berthoud rect it to the pinions. transmission, tourbillon, power-reserve indicator

102 Ferdinand Berthoud Ferdinand Berthoud 103 The Swiss to the brink of insolvency in 1982 and 1983, Watch Industry but its new CEO Rolf W. Schnyder and and Seafaring chief watchmaker Ludwig Oechslin re- turned it to the crème de la crème of Swiss The sea has been a ceaseless source of in- watch manufacturers within a few short spiration since human beings irst gained years. When Ulysse Nardin unveiled the the ability to think, and the urge to conquer Freak to the world in 2001, it turned the its immeasurable expanses has always been watch industry upside down in more ways accompanied by the quest than one: this luxury time- for technical ways and piece was the irst to boast means to make that wish the use of silicon compo- come true. Ulysse Nardin’s nents – and it functioned maritime-inspired watch- without hands, without a es tell the story of this on- dial, and without a crown. going endeavor: their high- Two bridges took over the precision complications work ordinarily performed and corrosion-resistant by the hands, the upper materials recall the close bridge displaying the min- afiliation that this Swiss utes and its lower counter- watch manufacturer has tra - part indicating the hours. ditionally cultivated with The bezel and the back of seafaring, sharing human- the case rotated to set the kind’s fascination with the time and wind the main- endless freedom of the sea. Freak X spring. And the company Few watch brands can rival took it a step further in the steadfastness with which this company 2019: the new Freak X models feature a has dedicated itself to the development of crown for the irst time, thus making them high-precision marine chronographs for easier to set. And the Freak Next entirely nearly 200 years. To this day, no wave can dispenses with pivots and bearing jewels. be too high nor any dive too deep for this The result is maximum performance brand’s extravagant timepieces. The so- thanks to the total elimination of called brought the company in the bearings.

THE ART OF HOROLOGICAL COMPLICATIONS

Ulysse Nardin 105 Executive Blast Black cuses on the X as a stylistic element, thus following in the footsteps of last year’s When Ulysse Nardin unveiled the Freak Freak X. The tourbillon oscillates at a pace in 2001, it granted watch enthusiasts’ wish of 2.5 Hertz inside a completely redesigned for a technically and creatively unique X-shaped cage. Skeletonized Caliber UN-172 wristwatch. This watch’s movement rotates is positioned vertically: its spring barrel around a shaft in the center of the dial, the and the platinum micro rotor are located at entire gear train completing one rotation 12 o’clock, while the tourbillon is at 6 o’clock. around its own axis every sixty minutes so An evolved descendant of Caliber UN-171, that the tip of its subassembly always in- UN-172 boasts a three-day power reserve. dicates the current minute. A disk under The designers at Ulysse Nardin redesigned the gear train requires twelve hours for one and reinforced the strap lugs, which are rotation; an arrow tip on it points to the styled to resemble the aerodynamic wings hour. The Freak was the irst serially manu- of a stealth ighter jet. Each of their triangu- factured watch with a silicon escapement, lar surfaces has a different texture: polished, and this same high-tech material is used satin-inished, or matte. The iconic model for the balance spring and tourbillon es- in the line – the Black Blast – features a capement of the new Blast. Its design fo- black ceramic bezel, a black rectangular bridge with red and black X-shaped pat- terns, and a bright red silicon balance. The latter is a irst for Ulysse Nardin. The sap- phire crystal’s seal is also red as are the jewels and the words “Silicium Technology” on the barrel. Ulysse Nardin’s grey logo completes the rectangular frame. A pat- ented system with three spring blades allows the user open the folding clasp on the textured rubber strap with a simple click. The 44 mm ceramic case is water- resistant to ive bar, which is equivalent to water pressure at a depth of 50 meters. The Executive Blast is also available in a titanium version with 18-karat rose gold. Titanium, self-winding movement, micro rotor, tourbillon

106 Ulysse Nardin Ulysse Nardin 107 Trendy Textile Straps The strap was also made with little “tunnels” from Historic Looms containing barrette-style bars that securely connect it to the watch. Finally, Tudor Having registered the Tudor brand in 1926, turned to one France’s last weaving mills Hans Wilsdorf established MONTRES of this type, which specializes in ribbon TUDOR S.A. in 1946. Rolex’s founder want- weaving. Julien Faure still makes ribbons ed to create a brand offering watches with using the traditional jacquard technique the quality and reliability of a Rolex but at with shuttles and can weave an almost more affordable prices. In addition to those inexhaustible variety of complex motifs. admirable qualities, Tudor continues to set Thanks to their high thread density, new trends in the watch industry – textile jacquard ribbons are not only extremely straps being a good example. Fabric straps durable but also very supple, which makes were already quite popular among collec- them quite comfortable to wear. Tudor irst tors of sports watches a decade ago when equipped its watches with textile straps in most luxury watches were not yet available 2010; the company now offers them in many with them because the major brands different designs and sizes. Even though considered them unsuitable for their elite the textile strap has become a modern clas- timepieces. Tudor recognized the design sic in the watch industry, Tudor’s straps set potential of this accessory and had its their own standards thanks to their excel- designers create distinctive straps, arrang- lent technical and aesthetic quality. ing to have them handcrafted at the Julien Faure weaving mill located in the region around Saint-Étienne in France. Like many innovations that subsequently attained widespread popularity, textile straps for watches originated in the military sector. In the early 1970s, NATO stipulated that soldiers’ wristwatches must be attached to uniform nylon straps. Though not particularly comfortable, they were inex- pensive, sporty, and easy to interchange. Tudor decided to redesign the textile strap, equipping it with a closure similar to the Weaving of the Heritage Ranger textile strap on THE ART OF HOROLOGICAL COMPLICATIONS buckle on the seatbelt of a classic racing car. the antique Jacquard weaving loom

Tudor 109 Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue

The number 58 in the name of Tudor’s Black Bay refers to 1958, the year in which Tudor presented Reference 7924, nicknamed “Big Crown,” the brand’s irst diver’s watch with water-resistance to a depth of 200 meters. In a 39 mm case, this new model takes after its illustrious predecessor. This new diver’s watch also continues Tudor’s long tradition of blue sports watches, a story that began in 1969 with a diver’s watch equipped with a blue dial and blue bezel. Other chrono- graphs and sports watches soon followed in made its debut with the Heritage Chrono- that model’s sporty footsteps. Incidentally: graph. The straps are manufactured in the blue is the world’s most popular color, fa- Saint-Étienne region, a place where tradi- vored more or less equally by men and tional Jacquard looms dating from the 19th women alike. Tudor opted for a blue hue century are used to make them. The third when it equipped the French navy with option is a stainless steel bracelet with rivet- diver’s watches back in the 1970s. The Black ed elements. This diver’s watch is powered Bay Fifty-Eight Navy-Blue thus continues by manufacture Caliber MT5402. Tudor a noble tradition with its navy blue dial and ensures that the maximum daily rate devia- unidirectionally rotating bezel. The cam- tion of this automatic COSC-certiied chro- bered dial also has a grained surface to dis- nometer whose balance is equipped with a courage glaring reflections, while the stain - silicon hairspring lies between –2 and +4 less steel bezel bears a numbered ring in seconds. A bidirectionally winding rotor blue anodized aluminum with silver minute supplies the mainspring with enough ener- hashmarks and numerals. Tudor offers a gy for 70 hours of power upon full winding, matching navy blue synthetic textile strap even if its wearer has taken the watch off with a flannel feel; the textile strap has also and left it lying motionlessly. Tudor offers a become one of Tudor’s typical features. The ive-year warranty on watches purchased company has offered its models with this after January 1, 2020: no registration is re- Stainless steel, self-winding movement, manufacture movement strap style since 2010 when the accessory quired and the warranty is transferable. Caliber MT5402, COSC certiication, chronometer

110 Tudor Tudor 111 In the Race for to 1/100th of a second in the Mikrograph. 160 Years Heuer subsequently supplied chrono- graphs for the Olympic Games and world Edouard Heuer was just 20 years old when championships in alpine disciplines. Heuer he opened his watch workshop in Saint- switched from two- to three-counter chrono - Imier in the Swiss Jura in 1860. At irst he graphs in the early : the third counter made pocket watches, mostly with silver enabled the user to tally intervals up to cases. In the 1880s, his company began twelve hours in . Jack Heuer took manufacturing large quantities of pocket over the management of his family’s busi- chronographs, which were used to measure ness as the fourth generation in 1958 and the times of races on roads, cinder tracks, subsequently focused on diverse varieties and bodies of water. In 1887, Heuer obtained of motorsports from amateur club rallies to patents for its oscillating pinion, a com- Ferrari’s Formula 1 racing team. The com- ponent that allows the chronograph to be pany premiered the Heuer Carrera in 1963: instantly started and stopped by pressing a Jack Heuer borrowed this model’s name button. When wristwatches supplanted from the Carrera Panamericana, a legend- pocket watches, Heuer relocated the preci- ary but short-lived road race that annually sion chronograph from the pocket to the traversed Mexico between 1950 and 1954. wrist. Heuer’s catalogue from 1914 de- Heuer unveiled the world’s irst automatic scribed this wristwatch chronograph as chronographs in 1969. The label’s ownership “unique on the market.” Edouard Heuer’s changed hands in 1985 to the Technique son Charles-Auguste initiated a project that d’Avantgarde (TAG) group, whose acro- would succeed in increasing the accuracy nym still appears in Heuer’s brand name of stop-watches from 1/5th of a second to today. The “Don’t Crack Under Pressure” 1/50th of a second in the Semikrograph and campaign, which ran from 1991 to 1994, is now being revived by TAG Heuer, which has belonged to the world’s largest group (LVMH) since 1989. Jack Heuer returned to the brand as honorary chairman at the age of 69 in 2001. Frédéric Arnault became TAG Heuer’s CEO in June 2020. THE ART OF HOROLOGICAL COMPLICATIONS Grand Prix Historique in Monte Carlo

Tag Heuer 113 Racing Models the digits 12, 4, and 8 to create a visual bal- with a New Engine ance with the minute counter at 3 o’clock. The new H-shaped bracelet is thinner than To celebrate TAG Heuer’s 160th anniver- its predecessor, making it more ergonomic sary, the Swiss watch brand presents an and enhancing its comfort. Caliber Heuer updated and redesigned chronograph in its 02, an automatic movement manufactured TAG Heuer Carrera racing collection. The entirely on premises at TAG Heuer’s Swiss 44 millimeter stainless steel case boasts Chevenex factory, powers this new Carrera alternating brushed and polished surfaces; model. With only 168 components the a multifaceted interaction that lends this movement makes do with a surprisingly wristwatch a slimmer looking proile – for small number of parts, but thanks to its which reason the sapphire crystal has been column-wheel gears and vertical clutch it newly integrated. The deep blue dial of the lacks none of the attributes beitting a ine TAG Heuer Carrera is decorated with a chronograph. Paced at 28,800 vibrations round-brushed inish, and its color match- per hour, its power reserve fully wound is es the hue of the ceramic bezel with inte- a remarkable 80 hours, so if the order grated tachymeter scale. of the day is less-demanding, In conjunction with the this chronograph can be set chronograph, the tachy- down for up to three days meter scale allows the without the need to reset it wearer to calculate the afterward. The TAG Heuer average speed travelled Carrera’s Caliber Heuer along a deined length 02 is water- resistant to of road. The inner ring – ten bar, which is equiva- the so-called flange – is lent to the water pressure beveled and its indices at a depth of 100 meters. incline toward the center of the dial. The hour coun- ter at 9 o’clock now bears

Stainless steel, self-winding movement, chronograph

114 Tag Heuer Tag Heuer 115 Watch Production achieved success as it was produced in large in Glashütte quantities in the Soviet Union. Wempe and A. Lange & Söhne jointly conceived a plan Parents tend to be particularly critical of to establish a research and movement regu- their own children. The same applies to lation institute in Glashütte, but their ideas Wempe. All the know-how and experience never came to fruition due to World War II. that Wempe has acquired since taking Kim-Eva Wempe made her grandfather’s over the Chronometerwerke Hamburg is dream come true 60 years later. Following incorporated into the production of our painstaking renovation work, production own watches at Glashütte in Saxony. When of in-house watch collections began at Glas- Herbert Wempe took hütte’s observatory over the chronome- in 2006. Together ter production on with the start of its January 1, 1938, he watch production in perfectly solved a Glashütte, Wempe problem: simulta- received accredita- neously training the Case of the Iron Walker tion to begin Glas- most talented and with integrated bracelet hütte’s chrono me ter - capable watchmak- testing laboratory. ers while accessing new business oppor- Thus, in collaboration with the State Of- tunities. He estimated that anyone who ice for Metrology and Veriication of makes extremely precise marine chronom- Saxony and the Thuringian State Ofice eters is also perfectly prepared to service for Consumer Protection, Wempe operates other high- quality timepieces. His assertion Germany’s only independent chronometer- proved true: Chronometerwerke Hamburg testing laboratory. The Zeitmeister and soon ascended into the elite ranks of Ger- Chronometerwerke collections were joined man watchmaking. And the products are this year by the Iron Walker line. Whether equally impressive, including marine chro- Chronometerwerke, Zeitmeister or Iron nometers, observation watches, time-signal Walker, nearly every watch from Wempe transmitters, and the Uniied Chronome- Glashütte I/SA earns prestigious certiica- ter. Developed by Wempe and manufac- tion as a German chronometer according to tured in collaboration with A. Lange & ISO 3159, guaranteeing that it keeps time Söhne, the Uniied Chronometer later with the utmost accuracy. THE ART OF HOROLOGICAL COMPLICATIONS

wempe iron walker 117 Iron Walker because self-supporting steel structures Automatic like the one depicted in the famous photo Chronograph – made it possible to construct the skyscrap- NO FEAR OF HEIGHTS ers that tower along Manhattan’s urban canyons. The Iron Walker Automatic The photo “Lunch Atop a Skyscraper” Chronograph is an expressive representa- made photographic history; it is of course tive of these stainless steel constructions. unforgettable: eleven construction work- Its 42 millimeter stainless steel case rises ers sit on a steel girder at a dizzying height to a height of 13.95 millimeters. The lumi- without any visible safeguard and Central nous coating on its steel indices and hands Park clearly visible in the background. shines like a skyline at night. Sharp edges The workmen hail from every cor- and gentle lines alternate, as do sat- ner of the world, including a in-inished and smoothly pol- few Irishmen and some ished surfaces. The lively indigenous Mohawk peo- architecture of Iron ple, all undauntedly en- Walker’s construction joying a lunch break at continues into the ele- a height of 250 meters gant three-part bracelet during the construction with folding clasp, which of the RCA building at merges seamlessly into Rockefeller Center. The the case that is water-resist- photo was shot on the 69th floor ant to ten bar (which corresponds in 1932 and published in the New York to the pressure at a depth of 100 meters). Herald Tribune the same year. The image The case houses automatic Swiss Caliber remains as fascinating as ever, as do the ETA 7753, which boasts a 54-hour power surefooted “Iron Walkers” who, for dec- reserve when fully wound. The move- ades to come, went on to build the steel ment’s accuracy is certiied by an oficial skeletons that literally gave rise to New certiicate issued by Germany’s only York City as we know it today. The youngest chronometer-testing center at the Wempe family of Wempe Glashütte I/SA watches Observatory in Glashütte. In addition is inspired by these men, who seemed to the version with a deep blue dial, the preternaturally free from vertigo and born Iron Walker Chronograph from Wempe with spines of steel. It is equally inspired Glashütte is also available with a black Stainless steel, self-winding movement, by the architecture their labor created – dial and white totalizers. chronograph, chronometer

118 wempe iron walker wempe iron walker 119 Iron Walker direction, and unintentional resetting is Automatic virtually impossible because it is located Diver’s Watch in the interior of the dial, in place of the flange, and is protected by a sapphire To comply with the international standard crystal. It can be adjusted by turning the for diver’s watches (ISO 6425), a watch like additional screw-down crown at 2 o’clock, this one must allow its user to be able to which effectively resists accidental ma- precisely pre-set the intended diving time nipulation. Massive crown protection en- up to 60 minutes. Since 1955, mechanical sures that nothing that could endanger the diver’s watches have accordingly been dive can become snagged between this equipped with rotating bezels bearing one and the screw-down winding crown at correspondingly graduated minute scales. 4 o’clock. This unconventional construc- But it is crucially important that tion also allows for unusually the pre-set diving time elegant styling that’s sel- shown by the bezel can- dom seen in a diver’s not be inadvertently watch. This 42 mm adjusted, ensured by stainless steel watch the rotating bezels on is only 11.7 mm high; diver’s watches, which thanks to its slim, pol- can be turned only coun- ished bezel, this watch terclockwise. At the start of can vanish under a shirt each dive, the wearer rotates cuff almost like a watch. the bezel until the distinctive luminous The case is nevertheless water-resistant triangle is opposite the luminous tip of the to 30 bar, which corresponds to the pres- minute hand. From this moment on, the sure at a depth of 300 meters. A tried- diver can instantly view the temporal and-tested automatic Swiss movement progress of the dive. If the bezel is acciden- boasts a 50-hour power reserve, and the tally reset under water, the remaining German Chronometer-Testing Laboratory diving time shown is never lengthened, but in Glashütte oficially conirms the accu- always and only shortened. Wempe’s Iron racy of the movement inside each indi- Walker Automatic Diver’s Watch goes a vidual watch. Wempe’s Iron Walker Auto - decisive step further: its rotating timing matic Diver’s Watch is also available with component can also be turned only in one a blue dial. Stainless steel, self-winding movement, internal diving bezel, chronometer

120 wempe iron walker wempe iron walker 121 Accompanying Famous Pioneers and Researchers

Longines has always been a reliable partner to researchers, pioneers, and exceptional pilots. The precision, reliability, robustness, and innovative technologies of Longines watches and instruments have accompa- nied expeditions to the planet’s last unex - plored regions. Amelia Earhart, Paul-Émile Victor, Elinor Smith, and Howard Hughes are a few of the pioneers who relied on Longines timepieces. Earhart wore a Elinor Smith Longines chronograph on her nonstop transatlantic flight in 1939, which lasted with the ilm Aviator in 2004, which saw 14 hours and 56 minutes. Paul-Émile Victor Leonardo DiCaprio in the role of the pio- put his life in the hands of Longines watch- neering American aviator and business es, which enabled him to calculate his longi- magnate. The brand with the winged hour- tude at –40° Celsius during his seven- glass logo was the oficial timekeeper for crossing of icebound Greenland in 1936. Hughes’ record circumnavigation of the “These watches spelled the difference globe in just three days, 19 hours, and 14 min- between failure and success,” he declared utes. Hughes was the most famous user afterwards. Pilot Elinor Smith had a Lon- of Longines’ patent-pending Siderograph, gines watch strapped to her wrist while en- an onboard instrument for astronautical deavoring to set a new world record in 1931, navigation. The crew aboard the pioneer- when she suddenly lost consciousness at an ing airman’s plane relied on Longines chro- altitude of 9,144 meters and nearly crashed nom eters to display Greenwich Civil Time her plane. She came to her senses in the and Greenwich . They also nick of time, regained control over her air- wore Longines Second-Setting watches to craft and landed it safely. Undaunted, she monitor their chronometers’ accuracy. tried again ten days later, setting an altitude Hughes described his motivation as follows: record at 9,929 meters. Martin Scorsese “Do the impossible because almost everyone THE ART OF HOROLOGICAL COMPLICATIONS raised a monument to Howard Hughes has told me my ideas are merely fantasies.”

longines 123 The Pioneer Spirit ETA is the movement manufacturer in the Lives On Swatch Group to which Longines also belongs. Speciicallyy for Longines, ETA The Longines Spirit collection pays hom- equips the chronograph with a column age to the pioneers of aviation who celebrat- wheel to control the chronograph’s ed world records, pioneering achievements, functions and a silicon hairspring breath- and heroic courage with Longines in the ing inside the balance. Unlike a conven- 1920s and 1930s. This brand looks back on a tional steel hairspring, a silicon balance rich history of legendary pioneers and spring is insensitive to magnetic influ- proudly pays homage to those bygone he- ence. This antimagnetic attribute com- roes and their immortal spirit. bined with the high amplitude As a link between history achieved by automatic winding and innovation, Longines’ and a 60-hour power reserve, new models feature typ- contributes to the move- ical characteristics of ment’s extremely stable pilot’s watches and al- rate. In order to make the lude to classic time- most of this chronograph’s pieces by the brand, complexity, the Longines yet also combine these Spirit incorporates two references with contem- subdials to tally the elaps- porary styling and design ing hours and minutes as codes. The ive stars applied well as the chronograph’s to Longines’ dials have always sweep seconds hand, which stood for the exceptional quality and bears an applied red element. The screw- reliability of this brand’s movements, while down crown ensures sturdiness and the well-known chronometer verbiage protects the interior from water pene- conirms the fact that each individual tration to a depth of 100 meters or a pres- movement underwent and passed a 14-day sure of 10 bar. The cambered sapphire accuracy test administered by Switzer- crystal is given several antireflective land’s oficial chronometer-testing au- coatings on both sides, thus guaranteeing thority, the COSC (Contrôle Oficiel Suisse great legibility of the dial. All of these des Chronomètres). Chronograph Caliber factors combine to underscore the perfec- L688.4 is based on ETA’s extremely dura- tionism of this wristwatch and the elegance Stainless steel, self-winding movement, ble and highly reliable Caliber A08.L01. of its styling. chronograph, chronometer

124 longines longines 125 Love of Craftsmanship workmanship that can only be performed by experienced, masterly hands. There is Some brands have the power to lend their a good reason why Montblanc’s style prior- style to diverse product worlds with seem- itizes timelessly elegant aesthetics: like all ing effortlessness, and Montblanc achieves Montblanc products, its watches are also this feat in a most impressive way. Like built to be faithful companions for a life- its legendary writing instruments, the time – at least. Alongside the century of Hamburg-based company’s high-precision design history that Montblanc has already timepieces in classic vintage look afirm written with its famous fountain pens, the house can also look back with pride on a long tradition in watchmaking that began in 1858 in Villeret, when Charles- Yvan Robert founded Minverva in Vallon de Saint-Imier. Over the years, this manu- facture earned an international reputation for its precise timepieces and established itself as a center of haute horlogerie. Minerva invariably focused on the creative interplay between tradition and the zeit- geist. Montblanc likewise succeeds in creating the extraordinary with its wrist- watches, which bring out the best of all areas of watchmaking. Montblanc is always on the cutting edge of style and technology Counting of the mainspring / at one end of the spectrum with collections determination of the length like the 1858, Heritage, and Tradition as well as outstanding craftsmanship and per- one quality above all: a savvy sense of fectly styled allusions to tasteful design of straightforward elegance paired with ex- the 1950s and 1960s. At the other end of this cellent craftsmanship. This unbeatable spectrum stand the watches of the Time- combination generates and sustains enthu- walker Collection, which are inspired by siasm among Montblanc’s clientele. After the spirit of motor sports, and the Summit all, genuine values result from competent collection . THE ART OF HOROLOGICAL COMPLICATIONS

MontBlanc 127 Heritage Manufacture ally large 11.5-mil limeter balance wheel Pulsograph Limited equipped with 18 screws, a column wheel, Edition the legendary V-shaped chronograph bridge whose design was patented in 1912, Inspired in equal measure by the classic and the unmistakable hand-decorated historic Minerva wristwatches of the Minerva “arrow” component. The hair- 1940s and 1950s, the newest creations in spring of the balance oscillating at the clas- the Montblanc Heritage product line com- sic frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour bine a vintage aesthetic with striking color ends in a Philips terminal curve. Matching combinations and sophisticated horolog- the case and tobacco-brown dial, which ical complications. The highlight of the col- charmingly revives various vintage design lection is the Heritage Pulsograph, which codes from the 1940s and 1950s, the nickel appears in a limited edition of silver plate and bridges of 100 timepieces, each with a Caliber MB M13.21 are plat- 40-millimeter case in 18- ed in rose gold. The light- karat rose gold. This ly domed and smoky model is inspired by lacquered dial boasts the timepieces that a grained hour ring watch collectors call and sunburst pattern, “doctor’s watches,” Arabic numerals plat- which were used by ed with 18-karat rose physicians in the past gold, dot markers with to measure their pa- luminescent coating, 18- tients’ pulse rates. The karat rose gold-plated Dau- Heritage Pulsograph is distin- phine hands with luminescent guished by its distinctive, smoky, tobacco- coating for the hours and minutes, 18-karat brown dial and its color-coordinated rose gold-plated baton hands for the sfumato alligator leather strap, both of seconds and chronograph indications, and which accentuate the trendy vintage style. minute markings in rack-and-pinion The sapphire crystal on the case back offers design. Historical pay-phone styling dis- an appealing view of the sophisticated, hand- tinguishes the indications for three, six, crafted inishing of Montblanc Monopusher and nine elapsed minutes on the chrono- chronograph Caliber MB M13.21. This graph’s minute counter. All watches in the 18k rose gold, self-winding movement, self-winding movement features an unusu- Heritage line are water resistant to ive bar. chronograph, limited to 100 watches

128 MontBlanc MontBlanc 129 From Saxony people simply refer to it as the heart of the to the Whole World watch. Following seven years of research, since 2014 Nomos Glashütte has produced Aicionados of minimalism love Nomos this heart at its own factory: the Nomos Glashütte. The design and construction of Swing System, which sets the pace in this successful German manufactory’s Nomos Glashütte’s watches, also made this watches celebrate the beauty of pure func- manufactory technologically independent tionality, and each timepiece is equipped of Swiss manufacturers. Since its advent, with a movement of the highest horo logi- the Swing System has not only driven cal quality. Inspired by Bauhaus, Nomos Nomos Glashütte’s watches, but also pro- Glashütte’s models have earned many in- pelled the brand’s success story, ensuring ternational awards and are acknowledged precision and longevity in 11 in-house move- as modern classics. Classics are classics be- ments. The abbreviation “DUW” on the cause they inspire creativity and the strive movements stands for “Nomos Glashütte for excellence in the best of every era. The Deutsche Uhrenwerke” and afirms this revolutionary principles of design taught manufactory’s claim as a maker of calibers, by the Bauhaus school are a genuine made- creating movements designed with love in-Germany classic. And classic Bauhaus and according to the rules of traditional design inds its contemporary interpre- craftsmanship – built in Saxony and for tation in Nomos Glashütte’s watches. the whole world. Inspired by creatively focusing on the essentials as done in Bauhaus master class- es, Nomos Glashütte’s engineers, crafts- people, and designers collaborate closely. And like Deutscher Werkbund and Bau- haus creations, the goal is to achieve top output in every way at prices no more expensive than absolutely necessary. Nomos Glashütte’s products are today’s Bauhaus. Some call it the escapement, others the oscillator or regulator, but most Caliber assembly

THE ART OF HOROLOGICAL COMPLICATIONS

NOMOS Glashütte 131 Tangente Sport – a depth of 300 meters. This water resist- With Broad Shoulders ance is speciied on the dial as 1,000 feet. The Tangente Sport’s dial is available in two Swimming regularly creates a wide shoul- color schemes: classically silver plated and ders. Perhaps this is why the Tangente blue-black, the latter conjuring the hue of Sport neomatik 42 Datum with its epony- the deep sea. More Super-LumiNova has mous 42-millimeter diameter has a more been applied to the dial and hands in both deinite masculine look than many other versions, thus providing greater luminosity models from the Glashütte-based manu- in the dark and underwater. The Tangente factory. It is also the irst watch by Nomos Sport’s metal bracelet consists of 145 stain- designed with and for a metal bracelet. Its less steel components, all of which are man- movement, manufacture Caliber neomatik ually screwed together; a screwdriver can Datum (DUW 6101), is protected by an extra- be used to remove or add elements to the strong case, gaskets, sapphire , and bracelet. Additional ine adjustment with crown protection to safeguard it from vi- a spring bar further enhances wearing brations, shocks, and – above all – water in- comfort. The folding clasp, securely inte- iltration. The Tangente Sport’s designers grated into the Tangente Sport’s bracelet, used the advantage of the thin automatic is also one of Nomos’ own developments. manufacture movement to create a much The date display of Caliber DUW 6101 more robust case with a water resistance of can be quickly set either forward or back- 30 bar, which is equal to water pressure at ward, and the movement also boasts a Glashütte-style three-quarter plate, Nomos’ own Swing System escapement, a thermal- ly blued hairspring, a doubly screwed bal- ance bridge, and a rotor adorned with a raised, gold-plated engraving that winds the mainspring in both directions of rota- tion. Fully wound, this watch’s power re- serve is 42 hours. The movement’s surfaces are plated and further embel- lished with Glashütte ribbing and circu- lar graining. Twenty-seven ruby bearing jewels and thermally blued screws com- Stainless steel, self-winding movement, plete the handsome creation. small seconds subdial

132 NOMOS Glashütte NOMOS Glashütte 133 Family-Owned Manufactory

“What you can’t buy, you simply have to make yourself,” was Heinrich Sattler’s motto. Erwin Sattler’s grandfather was a who on March 4, 1903 patented a clock for desktops and shelves with a per- petual calendar. His grandson Erwin estab- lished his own clock factory in Gräfeling, near Munich, in 1958. In the style of the time, the cases of his high-quality wall and table clocks were partly hand-carved and Sattler Opus decorated with gold leaf. Erwin Sattler’s wife, Viola Sattler, who was the artist in the Jürgen Kohler – who had worked for the family, painted various models by hand and company for many years, now support thus lovingly created detailed one-of-a- Stephanie Sattler in the technical area. In kind timepieces. Stephanie Sattler, one of addition, the second generation of the com- Erwin’s three daughters, joined the com- pany’s ownerns offers precision clocks in pany in 1989: an academically trained busi- the form of kits through its successful com- ness economist, she has directed the com- pany Müller & Sattler Uhrenbausatz GmbH. pany’s purchasing, sales, and commercial Another milestone in the history of the divisions ever since. The erstwhile clock manufactory took place in 2006, when the company began striving for full-fledged company relocated to a larger building in manufactory status in 1992 with the aim to Gräfeling. The machinery here was fur- establish Sattler’s own in-house move ment ther augmented to meet increasing demand production. A vertical range of manufac- and a larger number of watchmakers now ture of more than 90% was achieved in work under optimal conditions in these 2002, which was the same year that Erwin brighter and more spacious premises. A Sattler handed over the company’s future special highlight of the new factory build- to his daughter Stephanie Sattler-Rick ing is its façade, where the nearly eight me- and watchmaker Richard Müller. Richard ter-long pendulum of the world’s largest Müller retired in January 2020. Two mas- precision swings indefati- THE ART OF HOROLOGICAL COMPLICATIONS ter watchmakers – Markus Glöggler and gably back and forth.

Sattler 135 listeners with its resonant chimes every P 100 Bauhaus – The hour on the hour. Its black varnished and Future of Tradition rather robust case skillfully directs the viewer’s gaze to a black anodized dial Bauhaus celebrated its one-hundredth with polished steel hands. The limited- anniversary in 2019, but this is only the edition verbiage and Arabic numerals at beginning of the story: a special edition every second hour position make for eye- from the Erwin Sattler clock manufactory catching allusions to the Bauhaus tradition. alludes to the tale. Due to their austere A visual counterweight to the dial is pro- and well-proportioned lines, Sattler’s pen- vided by the high-polished pendulum dulum clocks already set design standards lens weighing exactly one kilogram on many years ago. All the lovelier that the its black wooden rod in the lower part of limited 19-piece special edi- the clock. Pulley-winding tion called P 100 Bauhaus provides Sattler Manufac- has inherited the basic prin- ture Caliber 1510 with sufi- ciples of the Bauhaus style cient energy for a seven-day and continues to evolve power reserve. Measuring them into the future as a 25.5 centimeters wide and perfect synthesis of art and just over 10.5 centimeters craftsmanship. The clear deep, it is easy to ind the lines, right angles, and duly ideal place for it to comple- famous used in ment both modern and clas- this nearly one meter-high sically furnished rooms. clock embody the centu- The P 100 Bauhaus special ry-old Bauhaus tradition. edition stands for the best Form follows function here German-made quality and because this pendulum for the Bauhaus of clock also has plenty to offer and . This is the in terms of technology: timeless beauty that results gold- plated gears, a move- from straightforward func- ment borne on jewels and tionality, horological crafts- ball bearings, and a striking manship, and a ceaseless mechanism that delights quest for perfection. Black polished wood, seven-day movement, limited to 19 clocks

136 Sattler Sattler 137 If an item in this book has sparked your interest, please contact us. We would be pleased to help you make your wishes come true.

10117 Berlin 60313 Frankfurt New York N.Y. 10019 Rolex Boutiques Friedrichstrasse 81 An der Hauptwache 7 700 Fifth Avenue at 55th Street 10707 Berlin +49 30 20 39 99 20 +49 69 200 11 + 1 212 397 9000 Kurürstendamm 184 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] +49 30 55 66 90 10 [email protected] 10719 Berlin 60549 Frankfurt 75008 Paris Kurürstendamm 214 – 215 Airport Terminal 1, Level 3, Gates Z 16, rue Royale 20354 hamburg +49 30 882 68 78 +49 69 69 02 71 61 +33 1 42 60 2177 Neuer Wall 7 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] +49 40 60 77 02 488 [email protected] 20095 Hamburg 68161 Mannheim 1010 vienna Mönckebergstrasse 19 Planken O6, 7 Kärntner Strasse 41 60313 Frankfurt +49 40 33 44 88 22 + 49 621 10 10 15 +43 1 512 33 22 Goethestrasse 4–8 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] +49 69 92 88 30 80 [email protected] 20354 Hamburg 70173 Stuttgart London W1S 2SA Jungfernstieg 8 Kirchstrasse 3 43–44 New Bond Street 70173 Stuttgart +49 40 33 44 88 24 +49 711 223 80 90 +44 20 7493 2299 Dorotheen Quartier/Sporerstrasse 16 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] +49 711 25 29 41 90 [email protected] 25999 Kampen/Sylt 80333 munich 28001 Madrid Strönwai 16 Weinstrasse 11 Serrano, 58 New York N.Y. 10022 +49 46 51 995 94 59 +49 89 242 38 06 +34 91 426 22 26 Rolex Building [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] 665 Fifth Avenue at 53rd Street +1 212 759 8278 28195 Bremen 80539 munich MS Europa [email protected] Sögestrasse 47 – 51 Maximilianstrasse 6 MS Europa 2 +49 421 32 03 16 +49 89 29 12 99 Jeweler on board [email protected] [email protected] Patek Philippe Boutiques Headquarters 20354 Hamburg 30159 Hanover 90402 Nuremberg 20095 Hamburg Neuer Wall 5 Georgstrasse 27 Königstrasse 12 Steinstrasse 23 +49 40 636 07 69 19 +49 511 32 69 88 +49 911 20 35 81 +49 40 334 48-0 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] 60313 Frankfurt 40212 Düsseldorf 01067 Dresden Chronometerwerke Maritim Goethestrasse 10 Königsallee 14 An der Frauenkirche 20 20095 Hamburg +49 69 20 97 47 47 +49 211 32 40 77 +49 351 496 53 13 Steinstrasse 23 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] +49 40 334 48 899 [email protected] 44135 Dortmund 04109 Leipzig A. Lange & söhne Boutiques Ostenhellweg 1 Mädler-Passage/Grimmaische Strasse 2 – 4 Sternwarte 80333 munich +49 231 52 30 52 +49 341 211 31 12 Wempe Glashütte I/SA Perusastrasse 3 – 4 dor[email protected] [email protected] 01768 Glashütte +49 89 25 54 47 80 Herbert-Wempe-Platz 1 [email protected] 50667 cologne +49 350 53 32 1-0 London W1S 4QL Hohe Strasse 66 [email protected] +49 221 257 04 40 38 Old Bond Street [email protected] +44 20 7493 2266 [email protected]

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Publisher: Gerhard D. Wempe KG, Steinstrasse 23, 20095 Hamburg, Germany

Watch-Editor-at-Large,responsible according to German press law.: Thomas Wanka Editorial assistance: Sabine Zwettler Project management: Katrin Eckardt Design: sandfort visuals, Hamburg Print: Beisner Druck GmbH & Co. KG, Buchholz

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